(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best automotive greases

Very easy to do a rotor and pad job yourself. Does require a couple of tools though. Even with the tools you'll be saving a bunch of money.

Changed the front brakes on my sister's civic for less than $150 dollars for the parts.

Besides sockets and a ratchet, you'll want to either get a C-clamp or a a brake caliper tool: https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24400-Disc-Brake-Spreader/dp/B0002SQU9K

Also some brake lubricant: https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-24129-Silicone-Extreme-Lubricant/dp/B01L1LV9F6/ref=sr_1_11?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1496554333&sr=1-11&keywords=brake+lube

And sometimes its tough to take the rotor screws off, for that you will need an impact driver: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002O16UPM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Since your car is pretty new, you might not need the impact driver unless your rotors are rusty.

I used this rotor + pad set for the car : https://www.amazon.com/Power-Stop-K1043-Evolution-Drilled/dp/B005FKMOWM

I've put powerstop rotors and pads on 4 cars now and they have worked quiet well. Some people were saying that the drilled rotors are prone to cracks, but that won't happen for a daily drive car on the street. Other rotor and pad options:

https://www.amazon.com/Wagner-BD125669E-Premium-Coated-Brake/dp/B00HJJDSZO

https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-17D914C-Professional-Ceramic-Front/dp/B000IYY7PW

Rears will be different than the ones I posted, so check and see what will fit. Amazon makes it pretty easy, just enter your car and it'll tell you what fits.

Since you have watched videos on the change, I don't think you need me to tell you how to do it.

The hood latches tend to seize up over time, especially if you don't lubricate them occasionally. Had the same problem on my Mk5 Jetta. If it's seized and not a broken cable, you can generally fix it pretty easily.

You need three things: a small screwdriver, a can of lightweight break-free lube like Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster penetrating oil, and a can of spray lithium lube.

Pop the safety latch and prop the hood. Locate the hood latch assembly. Using the precision tube on the spray lube, saturate the inside of the latch and latch plate with the penetrating oil (try to keep overspray from rubber parts). Let sit for 30 seconds or so, and then press on the open side of the latch with the screwdriver until the latch plate releases and locks. Pull the hood release in the cabin to reset. Repeat several times until the latch snaps closed freely when you press on it with the screwdriver. Respray with penetrator if necessary.

Use a shop towel to mop up as much penetrating oil as you can and spray the entire inside of the latch assembly with as much spray lithium as it will hold. Work the mechanism a few more times to get it into the pivot and latch plate as much as possible. Re-saturate with lithium grease and button up.

Every time you change your oil, you should relubricate the hood latch with spray lithium to keep this from happening.

EDIT: Linkies.

that bike's bearings are likely in great shape, but dry. the original schwinn bearings are better than any modern (chinese) replacements you can buy, other than NOS schwinn parts found on ebay.

i think the biggest problem you're going to have with that particular bike, as a novice, is the brake and derailleur removal, replacement, and adjustment. not impossible, but they can be problematic.

the best way to clean the bearings before repacking them is to soak them overnight or longer in a can of carburetor cleaner. then pack them with actual wheel bearing grease.

schwinn-specific tires are required. tubes are interchangeable, but tires are not.

Yes flush the fluid. Use brand name DOT 4 fluid if possible.
And one part of new brakes techs/installers fail to do is to clean and re-lubricate the caliper slide pin(s) with the proper lubricant type. Silicone caliper grease should be used, not the 'brake grease' as this degrades the rubber boots.

Try to have the pads matched to the rotors - pad material and rotor metallurgy. OE factory pads are usually the best for applications like yours.

Any high temp grease will work for sure, as everyone said Lubriplate 130a is the original stuff and I have some.

If you want to save money this works great as well https://www.amazon.com/Mag-723-High-Temp-Bearing-Grease/dp/B002GK642K/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_263_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=3W4V77MF90EKA9ZRGE0G

They sell it at walmart for cheaper some brands might label it as "Red 'n Tacky" but its much cheaper and works great. Its got all the rust inhibitors and stays where you put it. I mean think about the last time you changed the wheel bearing grease in your car....

Point is dont get caught up buying expensive grease. Automotive grease is made for much harsher conditions than that of a firearm and will work pretty damn well.

>Apparently neither is supposed to be used if the brake pads have shims behind them; with those you're instead supposed to use high temperature grease, like wheel bearing grease made for disk brakes

Wow, didn't know that! Mine do have a shim behind them.

I have 12 oz bucket of Sta-Lube SL3303

https://www.amazon.com/Sta-Lube-SL3303-Caliper-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000CPIOAG/ref=asc_df_B000CPIOAG/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312114638367&hvpos=1o5&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6425907756050616148&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9032536&hvtargid=pla-570224867228&psc=1

It says "prevents brake noise" and says to coat all moving parts with a thin layer. So I guess I'm supposed to coat the back of the pads with this?

Maintenance is super cheap. My weekly maintence, done the night before I play, is greasing the rails (I use white lithium grease) and a drop of silicone oil in the bbu (Murder Oil for me), then just running an unjamming rod and cloth through the barrel to clean it. Takes like 5 minutes. Every now and again I lube the mags which requires a valve key to unscrew the valves and get to the o-rings.

In the 8 months I've had my hi-capa using exclusively propane (Mostly coleman, recently got some Bernzomatic), that's just about all I've done. I've done a full slide disassembly and clean a couple times but never had to mess with the grip.

Here ya go, www.amazon.com/Ultra-10300-Multi-Purpose-Biobased-Lithium/dp/B002BW5GEU/
Not 100% since I don't have mine in front of me, but I'm pretty sure that should do it for ya.

You want to run a ground cable from the antenna mount to the battery? I don't think that's necessary so long as your coax is well grounded at the mount point and that there's a solid ground through the roof rack frame to the chassis of the vehicle. You may need to bond the joints of the rack if they're bolted (and not welded) together to avoid future bad grounds due to galvanic corrosion between dissimilar metals (steel, aluminium, copper, zinc, etc) or use coupling grease between your contacts (Something like: https://www.amazon.ca/Tow-Ready-11755-Electrical-Contact/dp/B001446LP4 ) to reduce the effects of corrosion.

I run a DK3 design screwdriver on my F150: https://i.imgur.com/XsjmHzC.jpg and have the base bonded to the bed of truck which I've also electrically bonded to the chassis. This setup works fine for me. Given the rough roads I travel, the extreme cold and the use of salts on roads, I have to strip everything down every summer and clean up any corrosion and re-lube everything.

Edit: Specifically for the ATAS, I've known a few hams that have snapped it off at the base doing some unintentional bush whacking. The SO-239 socket mount on the antenna seems to be a bit of a weak point - the antenna side is fairly sturdy, but what you use on the vehicle side needs to be just as strong. If you add some additional bracing a few inches up from the bottom, you should be fine.

Those are both the same?

The stuff i used is green in color and specifically says can be used on caliper slide pins.

This stuff: https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-85188-Ultra-Brake-Caliper/dp/B004WJPN2A/ref=sr_1_3?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1484436155&sr=1-3&keywords=permatex+caliper+lube

It does say on the packaging that its safe on gaskets, rubber, and plastics.

EDIT: well, looks like i'm buying some of the silicone based hi temp caliper lube.

You can use White lithium grease spray on your buffer spring, that miiiiight help some. Look at some pictures of carrier tilt on google. I believe you MIGHT be experiencing an extreme version of carrier tilt that is pretty common with super cheap components, basically, if it is what I assume it is, your carrier is chewing up your buffer tube.

I NEVER cheap out on a buffer tube, you can either get the cheapest one available for $20 or the best non-billet mil-spec buffer tube known to man for like $50... not a huge price gap between the best and worst but there is a huge gap in fit/finish.

Edit: if your lower is out of spec, it isn't a complete loss, you can turn it in to a dedicated .22 LR lower that doesn't use a buffer or some crazy shit like that!

I've typically used 3in1 blue (not the typical Red and white bottle) where light weight is required, or for motor lubrication. For metal on metal contact, such as rails where something more grease like is needed, I use Deoxit L260np.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AHCIWHO

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00065VGUC

The L260np is the type of stuff they use for things like CD tray rack and pinion rails, etc.

DO NOT use 3in1 Red. That is a wholly different beast than the Blue I've linked.

There's a Raybestos product with Teflon in it. That's the shit you want.

If you put it on unpainted calipers, after a few weeks you can see it actually seeping into the calipers.

When I had an employer that paid for it, I would use it on any cold parts where you would regularly use anti-seize, because the Teflon would (theoretically) bond with the surface eliminating seizing.

I use lithium molly grease on all metal (bearings included) and piston rails/teeth. On the O-rings in AEGs I use thick silicone grease, I currently have a tub of Techt Gunsav. Superlube works well too.

Grease in ball bearings needs to be tacky to protect them from wear.

YOU COULD USE THESE TISSUES: https://www.amazon.com/Intex-Supply-Co-10443-Grease/dp/B000HJ765Q/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1469779034&sr=8-6&keywords=grease+rag

TO CLEAN UP YOUR HUMAN FLUIDS

You could fix your l3 sprint with this.

https://youtu.be/NUHlRl1yN70

CRC 02083 Di-Electric Grease Spray, (Net weight: 10 oz.) 16oz Aerosol https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013J62A4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ZOmzybQX5AND3


Super easy to do. Did it about 6 months ago to my cinch, just started having the issue again about 2 weeks ago but was very minor, will be re spraying both sticks this weekend and It was completely fixed for those 6 months.

If you haven't the tools to get at the pawls, not to mention putting things back together... your local bike shop should be able to take care of it with some Lubriplate Mag-1 (expensive grease), ParkTool Grease (great stuff), Phil Wood Grease (amazing stuff) or perhaps some Boshield T-9 lube (light lube).

you can also get this which is better than the eraser:

http://www.amazon.com/DeoxITGOLD-Pen-NSN-6850-01-477-1478-100-solution/dp/B0015A59G4

WD40? You have to apply a nice thin even coat of hi-temp brake grease to the spinny things. Like this stuff

What you want is something like this. If you're spending over $6 for a tub, you're probably being had.

You could try pulling all the bolts that attach your caliper and rotor. Clean all mounting surfaces and retourqu all mounting bolts (put a little bit of grease or locktite on bolt threads). You might also put a tiny dab of grease on all mounting surfaces for the caliper, one dude suggested a tiny dab of this behind the pad (not sure I'm on board with this).



Here is a decent pinkbike article and a recent reddit thread with the aforementioned advice.

Make sure you are mounting the caliper so it is contacting the rotor squarely.

Lastly, if you are absolutely stymied, it may be a bad caliper.

Valvoline Lithium grease

Amazon sells it for $9/lb

https://www.amazon.ca/Valvoline-General-Multi-Purpose-Grease-454g/dp/B000CQ264A/

[It's called lube, but is closer to a grease in consistency.] (http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-85188-Ultra-Brake-Caliper/dp/B004WJPN2A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462209755&sr=8-1&keywords=brake+caliper+grease)

Permatex 85188 Ultra Disc Brake Caliper Lube - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004WJPN2A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

that is what I use

Guess I have to upgrade to Permatex 24125, after I just bought 8oz of the other stuff :(