Reddit mentions: The best greases & lubricants
We found 455 Reddit comments discussing the best greases & lubricants. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 135 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.
1. Super Lube Synthetic Multi-Purpose Grease, 3 Oz.
- Patented synthetic NLGI grade 2 heavy-duty, multipurpose lubricant
- Dielectric, Food Grade, Clean
- NSF Rating H-1, safe for incidental food contact
- Will not drip, run or evaporate
Features:
Specs:
Color | Translucent White |
Height | 7 inches |
Length | 2 inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 3 oz. |
Weight | 0.1873929227 Pounds |
Width | 2 inches |
2. Genuine Honda 08798-9013 Silicone Grease
- Genuine Honda part
- Used for lubricating door seals, window channels, sunroof seals and any convertible or targa top seals on your Honda or Non-Honda vehicle.
Features:
Specs:
Weight | 0.25 Pounds |
3. Permatex 24125 Ceramic Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant, 8 oz., Pack of 1
- 100% synthetic formula with ceramic solids forming a premium quality brake lubricant
- Resistant to moisture, corrosion and contaminants - will not wash out
- Silences brake noise across a much wider temperature range and maintains lubricant integrity
- Lasts longer and easily outperforms ordinary caliper greases and traditional disc brake quiet products
- Suggested applications include disc brake caliper hardware, pistons, brushings, rubber sleeves and seals
Features:
Specs:
Height | 0 Inches |
Length | 0 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | Pack of 1 |
Weight | 0.6 Pounds |
Width | 0 Inches |
4. Permatex 80345 White Lithium Grease, 1.5 oz.
All-purpose white lubricant for metal-to-metal and metal-to-plastic applicationsWithstands moisture and high heatProtects against rust and makes surfaces friction-freeStainless and non-toxicSuggested Applications: Door hinges, hood latches, trunk latches, hatchback struts, seat tracks, garage door a...
Specs:
Color | White |
Height | 8 Inches |
Length | 1.13 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Release date | September 2018 |
Size | Pack of 1 |
Weight | 0.12 Pounds |
Width | 3.81 Inches |
5. Liquid Wrench L512 Dry Lubricant with CERFLON - 11 oz.
- specs: Dry Lubricant, Size: 11 oz, Notes: Dries quickly Lubricates and quiets Lubricates with no oily residue
- Replaces OEM Number: Liquid Wrench: L512
- Stens one-year warranty ensures reliability and performance for every part.
- Stens branded parts are trusted by professional dealers to perform OEM quality repairs. The Stens name is featured on all Genuine Stens product packaging.
Features:
Specs:
Color | Clear |
Height | 2.55 Inches |
Length | 8 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | One Each, 11 oz. |
Weight | 0.0125 Pounds |
Width | 2.6 Inches |
6. Lucas Oil 10533 White Lithium Grease - 8 oz. Squeeze Tube
- Meets NLGI-2 performance
Features:
Specs:
Color | Others |
Height | 7.625 Inches |
Length | 2.75 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Release date | July 2012 |
Size | 8 Ounce |
Weight | 0.5 Pounds |
Width | 2.75 Inches |
7. Plews 55001 Lubrimatic Fluid Quart Pump, Fits Standard Quart Bottles
INDUSTRIAL GRADE: Our LubriMatic 55-001 Fluid & Oil Transfer Pump is a simple and effective solution for adding fluids to small engines, automotive transmissions and axles, farm equipment, industrial equipment, and marine lower units; Ideal for adding oil and other fluids, such as antifreeze, fuel, ...
Specs:
Color | Chrome |
Height | 12 Inches |
Length | 2 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Release date | March 2014 |
Size | Fits Standard Plews Quart Bottles |
Weight | 0.2 Pounds |
Width | 6 Inches |
8. Panef Corp. L-300 Powdered Graphite Lubricant - Net Wt .21 oz
- Keeps locks working smoothly
- Greaseless and Oderless
- Protects against corrosion, sticking and dirt build up
- Use in all temperatures for year-round protection
Features:
Specs:
Height | 5 Inches |
Length | 1.25 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | Pack of 1 |
Width | 3.5 Inches |
9. Silverhook SGPGT90, Silicone Grease Tube
General Lubricant - Water ProofOperating temperature: -30°C to +180°C
Specs:
Color | Silicone Grease Tube |
Number of items | 1 |
Release date | April 2015 |
Size | 80ml |
Weight | 0.2200213376875 Pounds |
10. Tri-Flow TF23004 Clear Synthetic Grease - 3 oz. Tube
Pure synthetic based formula, performs in temperatures of -10 to 400 degrees FahrenheitWaterproof formula resists oxidation, rust and corrosionConvenient squeeze bottle fits into most grease gunsProvides an excellent seal on bearings and has a high load carrying capacity
Specs:
Color | Multi |
Height | 1 Inches |
Length | 1 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Release date | August 2012 |
Size | 3 oz |
Weight | 0.1 Pounds |
Width | 1 Inches |
11. AGS SIL-Glyde Silicone Lubricant, Tube, 8 oz
- Sil-Glyde Lubricating Compound A longer-lasting, high film strength protective lubricant for all surfaces
- Sil-Glyde will not melt, freeze, gum, or run off like silicone oils
- Performs from -20°F to 400°F (-28°C to 204°C)
- Use on rubber, metal, wood, glass, and plastic. Harmless to rubber and car finishes
- Suggested applications include trunk seals, rubber bumpers, speedometer cables, brake parts, window channels, hood strips and pads, rubber gaskets, and belts.
Features:
Specs:
Height | 3.21 Inches |
Length | 7.46 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 8 oz tube |
Weight | 0.5 Pounds |
Width | 4.63 Inches |
12. Valvoline General Purpose Amber Grease 1 LB
- Auto & Truck Maintenance
- Country of manufacture: United States
- Manufacturer: VALVOLINE
- Product packaging may vary
Features:
Specs:
Color | Amber |
Height | 3.75 Inches |
Length | 4.09 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Release date | April 2021 |
Size | 1 Pound Tub |
Weight | 1.05 Pounds |
Width | 4.09 Inches |
13. Permatex 81343 Anti-Seize Lubricant, 1 oz. Tube
- Highly refined blend of aluminum, copper and graphite lubricants
- Salt, corrosion and moisture resistant, this lubricant is ideal for marine use
- Prevents galling, corrosion and seizing and to assure easier disassembly
- Suggested Applications: For easy removal of spark plugs, cylinder head and exhaust head bolts
Features:
Specs:
Color | White |
Height | 8 Inches |
Length | 0.81 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Release date | March 1999 |
Size | Pack of 1 |
Weight | 3.3 Pounds |
Width | 3.81 Inches |
14. WD40 300240 Specialist White Lithium Grease Spray - 10 oz.
- Wd-40 Specialist Protective White Lithium Grease Spray With Smart Straw Sprays 2 Ways, 10 Oz
- Ideal For Metal-To-Metal Applications That Require Heavy-Duty Lubrication And Protection Against Rust And Corrosion
- Sprays On Evenly As A Liquid And Sets Dry For A Thick, Protective Coating That Won'T Run Off. Safe From 0° F To 300° F For Unbeatable Protection
- Sprays On Easily With A Thick, Protective Coating For Auto Hinges, Gears, Sprockets, Latches, Door Tracks, Pulleys, Cables, And More
- Excellent For Lubricating Equipment Before Placing In Storage, And Is 50-State Voc Compliant
Features:
Specs:
Color | White |
Height | 9 Inches |
Length | 3 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 1-Pack |
Weight | 0.625 Pounds |
Width | 3 Inches |
15. CRC Sta-Lube SL3330 Moly-Graph Extreme Pressure Multi-Purpose Lithium Grease - 14 Oz.
- Offers and excellent mechanical and shear stable Lithium 12 Hydroxy Protection of "moly" and graphite
- his lithium base NLGI-2 grease has a drop point of 380F
- Not VOC Compliant for California & OTC
- Molybdenum and graphite establish a fine micron plating on all surfaces
Features:
Specs:
Color | Cartridge |
Height | 9.31 Inches |
Length | 2.13 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 14 Oz |
Weight | 0.875 Pounds |
Width | 2.13 Inches |
16. Liquid Wrench Gunk L112/6 Super Penetrant Spray - 11 oz, Gray
- Liquid Wrench 1 lubricant aerosol, 11 oz.
- Solid block desiccant core: A composite of molecular sieve and activated
- This is manufactured in United States
- A versatile multi-use penetrant
- Contains a precision spray straw
- A versatile multi-use penetrant
- Contains a precision spray straw
- Fast penetrating solvent
- Loosens rusted nuts, bolts and parts in a few minutes
- This item is not for sale in Catalina Island
Features:
Specs:
Color | Gray |
Height | 8 Inches |
Length | 3 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Release date | September 2018 |
Size | One Each, 11 oz. |
Weight | 0.94 Pounds |
Width | 3 Inches |
17. Multipurpose Grease, XHP 222 SPECIAL, 14.1 oz
- Superb resistance to water washout and spray-off
- Highly adhesive and cohesive structure
- Excellent rust and corrosion resistance
Features:
Specs:
Height | 2 Inches |
Length | 10 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 14.1 oz |
Weight | 0.875 Pounds |
Width | 2 Inches |
18. Permatex 80070 Silicone Spray Lubricant, 10.25 oz. net Aerosol Can
- Will not mar paint, rubber or plastic surfaces
- Electrically insulates, lubricates and waterproofs all types of mechanical equipment
- Coats hinges and channels, preventing locks, doors and windows from binding and squeaking
- High silicone formula does not attract dust or dirt
- Protects and renews rubber mountings, bushings and weather stripping
Features:
Specs:
Height | 7.81 Inches |
Length | 2.63 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 1-Pack |
Weight | 0.6375 Pounds |
Width | 2.63 Inches |
19. Permatex 09128 Copper Anti-Seize Lubricant, 8 oz.
- Prevents seizing, corrosion and galling where high temperature conditions exist
- Fortified with high quality rust and corrosion inhibitors
- Temperature range: -30F to 1800F
- Provides good electrical conductivity
- Suggested Applications: Spark plug threads installed in aluminum, exhaust manifold bolts, engine bolts, oxygen sensors, knock sensors, thermostat housing bolts, fuel filter fittings and battery cable connections
Features:
Specs:
Color | Copper |
Height | 4.63 Inches |
Length | 2.25 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | Pack of 1 |
Weight | 0.5 pounds |
Width | 2.25 Inches |
20. Lucas Oil 10005 Red 'N' Tacky Grease - 14 Oz.
- Fit type: Universal
Features:
Specs:
Color | bright red |
Height | 9.312 Inches |
Length | 2.2 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Release date | July 2012 |
Size | 14.5 Ounce |
Weight | 0.947 Pounds |
Width | 2.2 Inches |
🎓 Reddit experts on greases & lubricants
The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where greases & lubricants are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
I wrote a huge comment here on how to refurbish a stick, but it was a reply to another comment that was deleted. The deleted comment mentioned Kitsch-Bent brand replacement gears, which I would recommend for sure. You can find them on google and on eBay. (And for the record I'm not associated with Kitsch-Bent, I've just used their product and I don't know of any competitors.)
Keep in mind they're not quite as good as brand new gears, but you can get a pack of 10 controllers' worth for significantly less than you'd spend on a single brand new controller.
In addition to this, here's how you refurbish the rest of the stick: I would highly recommend buying a jar of ceramic grease and applying it to the insides of the stick using a toothpick, or with a q-tip with the end cut off. This is the stuff I use.
You're only going to want to use a little bit. This jar will be enough for every N64 controller you ever repair. Seriously. The other bonus is that the ceramic microparticles embed themselves in the plastic, so instead of the assembly being dry plastic on plastic (which will rub itself to dust, literally) it becomes greased ceramic rubbing against ceramic. Theoretically it'll last forever, and practically it'll most certainly last "long enough."
You want to take the whole joystick assembly apart, keeping in mind the order and orientation of everything. Then you want to actually clean all of the parts as good as possible. (If you replace the gears then just throw the old ones out — don't bother cleaning them). There shouldn't be any plastic dust on them before you continue.
DO NOT REMOVE THE ROUND BLACK GEARS WITH SLOTS ALONG THE EDGES FROM THE WHITE BOWL. These gears are precision designed and are meant for sensing the displacement of the stick. If you fuck them up, your joystick is garbage. Heed my warning.
Now that the parts are all clean, put them together and grease them in this order:
As long as you followed this carefully and made sure to not get any grease anywhere near the optical sensors, nor anywhere near the slots they sense your joystick should be as good as can be.
I've purchased two brand new OEM N64 controllers, and I did this to both of them.
I wanted to share my first experience with switch swapping. I was nervous because so many people said the Leopold was hard to desolder and this was my first time soldering any thing. But it all went really well, so I wanted to share in case any one else is thinking about it plus some info that might be useful to you veterans as well.
One part of keyboard customization I don't see addressed much is deadening the ping and case sound. Some people add foam to the bottom, but I found going between the PCB and Plate reduces sound a LOT. This baby is stuffed like a turkey and sounds amazing.
I've also seen a lot of people saying how great the Engineer solder sucker is. While the build quality is nice I'm not sure its worth $25, and most of the performance was because of the silicon tip. So I just added one to a cheap sucker and it worked great. I was worried about the temp as it says it isn't rated up to 350c but it worked great with barely any discoloring, and for like $1 you get 3ft so it basically lasts forever.
​
Links -
Neoprene $12 1/8" - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001FVG3CM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Soldering Station $37 - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/STM32-T12-Soldering-Station-Electronic-Soldering-iron-OLED-1-3-Digital-station-solder-iron-tip-welding/32994824865.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.7ba64c4dVrNrn3
Solder Sucker $5 - https://www.banggood.com/Sucking-Vacuum-Desoldering-Pump-Solder-Sucker-Remover-Tool-p-932434.html?rmmds=myorder&cur_warehouse=CN
Silicon Tube 5x7mm $1 - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1-Meter-Food-Grade-Transparent-Silicone-Rubber-Hose-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-10/32986897358.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.7ba64c4dVrNrn3
DSA Caps $35 - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/dsa-profile-Dye-Sub-Keycap-Set-PBT-plastic-retro-beige-for-mechanical-keyboard-beige-grey-cyan/32965815374.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.7ba64c4dVrNrn3
Super Lube $5 - https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-21030-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=super+lube&qid=1556304495&s=gateway&sr=8-5
​
I realized I really don't like the DSA keycap profile but this was a really nice set, pretty thick and great dye sub printing, way more crisp than my Enjoy PBT Cherry profile set I've been using.
​
I didn't have any lifted pads or issues at all despite me being a total noob. Using a 2.4mm chisel tip and my solder sucker combo worked really well. Just stuck the flat tip on flat side (top/bottom) of the soldered stem, let it heat up for about 5-6 seconds and then sucked. At 350c on my soldering Iron most guides said this was too long but i didn't have any issues, and going quicker left a lot of residue.
Also with the silicon tip I didn't have to move the soldering tip and place the sucker over the stem (doing this fast before the solder cools down is a pita) because of the silicon I just pressed it on top with the soldering iron still heating and sucked all at once. DEFINITELY worth the $1, made the process so much easier.
I also used Super Lube for all my lubing. This is what a lot of people use for the stabilizers as its really thick but then use expensive stuff for the switches. I just used a very small amount (scrape your brush off and then wipe it on so you can barely see it but its shiny). Worked great, no ping from the springs and very smooth and a $5 tube will last forever.
​
I want to do another now! need to decide on what type of switches I might like more than these super light 35g box reds. Maybe some speed switches? And I'll want to do a good solid metal case.
Overall I'm just super happy the whole thing worked without any problems. I get to use my really good Leopold plate/base/pcb (i really like the led under caps/num lock to let you know its on) with switches I like more!
​
If any one has any questions or needs help doing their first switch swap let me know, I'm 1 for 1 haha.
I have a Maker select. It's my first and only 3D printer so my review compared to others is unreliable.
Here's a copy/paste of a review I did on it about a month ago. It's long but detailed with links:
I will give you my background before my opinions. As everyone has different goals, opinions, and experiences.
I got my printer near the end March of this year. I have something like 2500m of filament run though it, and no idea how much print time.
When I received my printer, my test prints failed and I was pissed. But this community helped improve my Cura settings and started producing usable parts. I then went nuts and printed out a BUNCH of mods. This is by far my most favorite thing. There's always something I can print to improve the quality of the prints.
THe down side is I went too far and got to a point where I couldn't produce anything of quality. So, 2 weeks of tweeking and researching later I'm printing in PETG with beautiful quality and very minimal visible layers.
My most recent project in PETG:
http://i.imgur.com/sVf7S2D.jpg?1
So, now to answer your question...
> How do you like your Maker Select?
I love it. It allowed me to buy a cheaper printer (One of the cheapest at the time @ $350) that produced amazing results. It also has upgrades you can purchase or print to improve the quality, so investing smaller amounts over time to make it better and better. I highly recommend it to anyone who is starting because it does require tweaking which forces you to learn and understand how exactly 3d printers work. A major plus was that this community has a lot of Maker Select users for support, which was a MAJOR plus for me.
As of today, I've purchased the following upgrades:
So, in the last ~3 months I've spent an additional $264... Oh god, don't tell my wife! All are totally not necessary, mind you. The only thing I'd 100% recommend you do are print out the following to mods:
DiiiCooler along with buying the 50mm blower fan. There are cheaper options out there, I just wanted it faster so I bought it through Amazon to get free 2 day shipping.
z-Brace - This is key, and will run you maybe $15 worst case scenario to get enough M4 screws and the threaded rods.
Edit: Forgot a couple more things I bought.
That's another $59, so $323... I have a problem. again, 95% of this is NOT NECESSARY. I'm just addicted to modding.
https://smile.amazon.com/Permatex-24125-Ceramic-Extreme-Lubricant/dp/B0018PSASU?sa-no-redirect=1
---------------
The front caliper piston on most vehicles do move in and out, but the back piston generally needs to threaded back in, and would need a tool.
A generic clamp of any kind is fine for retracting a push-in piston, you just need to be slow and patient with it. Don't crank the clamp all at once, turn it about 1/8th of a turn and wait 20 seconds, and again. Make sure to use something which won't harm the piston face; Wood works well. Make sure the clamp is straight and the piston is going back in straight.
If rust is an issue in your area get some penetrant like PB Blaster or something and try to get the bolts soaking before it's time for the repair, if possible.
Make sure you have the proper lubricants, and the proper grease for the slider pins. Lube the piston mating surface(s) and the ears of the pads with a film of quality ceramic/synthetic brake grease. Not a GLOB, a film.
Make sure to clean up the shims and replace them if they are at all damaged or deformed. A film of grease where the shims mate to the caliper bracket is a good idea as well.
Be sure to avoid getting the grease/lube on any braking/friction surfaces such as the rotor or pad faces. Rotors can be cleaned with a rag and brake clean.
Make sure the tattle-tale, if present, is going in the correct direction. Make sure the pads are mounted properly. Try to reference the pads your removing first.
If you're replacing Rotors and/or replacing pads with a different compound, you should follow a "bed in procedure." A general bed-in is a few very light brakes from low speed like stop and go traffic, a few stops from 10-20 mph sort of riding the brakes holding them till you roll to a stop, and then one or two good "emergency stops" with a firm foot planted from 20-30mph. This will help ensure that friction material is transferred into the rotor surface which helps ensure proper stopping power.
I hope this helps.
I'm still experimenting with different lubricants and cleaning sprays but the best so far:
Dry Lube is spray Teflon that does not attract dust. This solution worked but does not completely clean out all the dust or make the action like new.
I am presently disassembling my Super Silent and after properly cleaning it, I will experiment with various oils, PTFE(Teflon), and wax/ceramic lubricants and compare how they affect the action of the keys.
For all parts other than the keys I am already convinced that dry lube is a better solution than any oil because not only doesn't it attract dust but you can blow out any dust with compressed air.
If it was me, I would put the bike horizontal (but make sure this is ok fluid wise, and with the manufactuerr's instruction manual), and I would use PB blaster on it for a week. And I do mean a week, and the PB Blaster brand only. I know that some may say a week is a bit long, but I have found that an extended period of time helps, as the metal expands/cools a number of days helping to draw the catalyst in.
Then I would get a dremel with this cut off wheel and use it to "notch" the head of the screw as deep as I could without hurting the surrounding metal. Then I would go to the store and find a flat head bit that will fit an impact driver, and it needs to be "impact quality" and "hardened". The impact driver needs to have a high torque..
Then, make sure that whatever bit you have fits securely in the notch you have created, use the impact wrench to break it loose, perhaps far enough that you can get the vise grips on it and finish bringing the bolt out. If you have not used an impact driver before, you should get some wood screws and a block of wood and practice so you are comfortable with it and know what to expect.
Then clean and chase the threads with the appropriate tap. And use an anti seize compound when re-installing the bolts.
I prefer this to drilling out and retapping the screw because he can get an OEM replacement bolt that will fit perfectly and not worry about the fit of a different bolt. Also, this method is actually less laborious (in my opinion) and he can always drill out and re-tap the screw if this does not work (but chances are good that it will).
I think the welding suggestion would work also, but OP may not have a welder. And if the OP wanted, he could use a regular heat gun on it a number of times (with the PB blaster) to expand and help crack the corrosion.
I use high temp grease like you'd use in a grease gun to lube bearings, the particular brand is "Mobil grease xhp 222" but any decent grease should work. here's a link to the stuff I use, that lil mini grease gun thing the show in the recommended items is super fucking handy too.
https://www.amazon.com/Multipurpose-Grease-XHP-SPECIAL-14-1/dp/B009VGEEM4
But I kinda go overboard and grease all possible contact points, like where the trigger bars ride against the frame, and I'll put a dab on the rear cage then smush it in with my finger so it can get worked into all the surfaces there and slicked everything up. Basically if any 2 pieces of metal are gonna touch I like them to be greased, the firing pin gets a tiny amount of oil, like 2 drops at most, and then I cycle the gun by hand a bunch and wipe up any excess.
Some q-tips and toothpicks make applying it a lot easier, that lil grease gun is a God send though, I highly recommend it.
And yeah the best part of the comp is how bad ass it looks, my brother was flipping out like "this shit looks like something out of metal gear" lol
I believe that grease is actually ideal for bearings over oil in terms of longevity of the application and I was recommended some superlube synthetic PTFE grease. It’s pretty cheap on amazon and there are printable bearing packers on thingiverse you can use to get it all the way in the races. (Just noticed you said you didn’t have access to it!)
I actually didn’t have grease when I built it so I used some synthetic PTFE oil on the rods and that has seemed to be fine. From the good article below, the important thing is that you don’t apply different (synthetic vs. non-synthetic) lubricants at the same time. Hence ideally you degrease the oil they are shipped in with isopropanol before applying more oil/grease. However, I read that the shipping oil is synthetic so I just applied the synthetic PTFE oil to the rods without de-greasing. I am just about to tear down and revise the bearings with grease the proper way myself actually.
So bottom line is that if your oil with PTFE is synthetic you can just apply it directly, but the ideal would be to de-grease and then apply grease of your choice.
Here’s a great resource (though the link is borked with the new prusa site—google “set your bearings straight” and it’s the first one that comes up): https://prusacommunity.com/set-your-bearing-straight/
And the superlube: Super Lube 21030 Synthetic Grease (NLGI 2), 3 oz Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7yCWCb21H21WM
Thingiverse link: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3328377
It would help if you could identify the specific joints that are the noisiest. It's likely a combination of your rear shock, your swingarm's connection to the frame, and the subframe joints. Sometimes you can't do much with older bikes short of replacing the parts, but cleaning and greasing it should help you.
WD40 is simply a water displacement. It doesn't grease anything, it just helps remove the water, and it's especially helpful if youre trying to unscrew or pull out something and it's stuck, as it will temporarily lubricate what you spray it on.
If you want to get rid of squeaks in the joints, either get some spray lubricant(like a silicone based one, something like this) or you can tear the bike down and apply grease(just get a tub of it and it'll last you years, something like this) to a lot of the moving parts. The rear shock is something you definitely don't wanna be taking apart unless you know what you're doing, so try just putting grease on the outsides of the joints or getting spray lubricant and spraying it in the joints.
I recommend the grease method, as the silicone spray often doesn't do a long term job and it isn't nearly as water proofing. Try to find some videos of how to take apart dirt bikes, and apply those concepts to your bike. Every bike is different, but if you watch some klx 125 teardown videos, you'll catch on. Pretty much you can take off everything except the rear shock/swingarm and still be able to put it back on easily.
For cleaning use Mineral Spirits. If the letters have a thick coating of ink use a small brass brush with mineral spirits. (odorless mineral spirits are available at every hardware store. It is the safer modern equivalent to Varisol.)
If I am correct and the Smith Corona has a sealed bottom. You want to take the bottom plate off to clean it. Using a dropper or Q-tips put little amounts on all the moving parts and then move them letting excess mineral spirits drip out the bottom. Repeat until the part is clean and moves freely. Wipe gunk off from all the none moving parts.
Traditionally only certain parts of the typewriter are lubricated with 10w machine oil. (Sewing machine oil.) Everyone including me use too much the first time. But even if you use the proper amount dust still sticks to it.
Use Liquid Wrench Teflon spray to lubricate all the moving parts. (It is cheaper to get it from an auto parts store or Wal-Mart.) It works as well as 10w oil and because it is dry dust doesn't stick to it. Spray everywhere, quickly wipe it off anywhere you don't want a coating of white dust.
I recommend the Liquid Wrench because it worked best of all the ones I tried. Do not use the Dupont Teflon spray because its "Patented Bonding," agent means it is much harder to clean from anywhere you don't want it.
White lithium grease wont kill your orings, but many claim that it's a rather thick and stiff lube, thus not being optimal for plunger systems. For any other application it's fine. YMMV, but I generally also dislike it for this reason.
SuperLube synthetic grease is a favorite. Sticks well, great application range, durable. It's thinner than WL, but if it's too thick, my little trick to making it looser is to add a little bit of silicon oil and give it a good mix before applying it. Silicon oil btw is the grease you'll notice when you first open up your blasters; I found out when I emailed buzzbee and hasbro asking for what they use. It's very slick, and very thin. I find making use of both resulted in best of both worlds.
If you enjoy tinkering then the Folger Tech i3 2020 is a pretty good printer and you can read my review of it here.
Get some Super Lube or other appropriate grease to pack the bearings with so that they don't fail on you like mine eventually did.
You will want to get a good set of metric hex keys as the vast majority of the screws are metric hex heads.
A soldering iron, 16g or better primary wire, and some solder are also a must as you will have to solder the leads to the heated bed so it can be connected to the RAMPS board.
Personally if I was to go back and build mine again I would toss the Mk2 heater PCB and use a Mk3 aluminum heated bed with a sheet of PEI on top from the start. It would have saved me both money and time troubleshooting both adhesion issues and the majorly warped heater PCB.
If you have any other questions don't hesitate to ask.
The EGR system is just a bunch of hoses. Look at the diagram on this page and check those hoses for brittleness, leaks, or cracks. Also check the check valves. Over time they can look like they are almost melting? It's hard to explain, but if you know what they are you'll know what I'm talking about when you see it. There's also an "L" shaped plastic hose that comes out of the crankcase. Check it. It has a tendency to explode. Not a big deal if it does, you just lost HP and MPG til it's fixed. Oh and you leak oil.
Look at this preventative maintenance guide that a guy on the Audi forums posted. Read through each of them to learn about the car and check for them while inspecting.
If you are into DIY stuff, check the [Audi DIY] (http://www.audidiy.com/b6a4.html) site. If you can't find it, google it. There's probably a writeup somewhere.
LPTs:
This car will cost you more money than you want in repairs and maintenance. If you like to DIY it's not too bad. I saved 700 dollars doing my own timing belt+water pump+ tensioners. I still spent 500 between tools and parts but the DIY made it cheaper.
That's all I can remember from my first post. If I remember anything else I'll add it in a new comment.
Most (if not all) greases are just too thick for bearings, you need something much thinner for bearings to run well on. A lot of people (myself included) think 10 weight nano oil seems to be just about the best, Some even prefer the thinner 5 weight nano oil.
Daiwa Reel Oil and food grade mineral oil(food safe option) are two more very common recommendations. Also just about any gun lube would be adequate as well. I'd personally recommend Hornady One-Shot Dry Lube as well, it's great stuff. Stay away from any organic based oils such as olive, vegetable, peanut, etc... as they'll tend to gum up and become rancid. Same thing with W(Water) D(Displacement) 40 as it's not a lube but a displacer of water and will also gum up the action of your knife.
Greases are better utilized on knives that run on washers, such as a Sebenza. I have personal experience with Tri-Flow Synthetic Grease and would definitely recommend it for some washer knives that seem to run a little better with a light application of grease such as the aforementioned Sebenza.
They look okay for a bit longer to me. (from what I can see on the outside pad)
Here's how I go about with pad replacement intervals. I pull the pads out to see how they're doing where I can see the whole pad. I check for things like cracks that go down to the backing plate or of there's a chunk or something missing out of them. After that I check to see how much actual pad is left and if they're okay to keep on the vehicle or if I should get new brake pads. I use what's called a Tread Depth Gauge which I recommend everyone have at home. It's a cheap tool you can get at any auto parts store. While measuring brake pads if it's at 3/32 or below I replace the brake pads, or if the pad squealer is clearly making contact with the rotor. But if they're okay and while they're out I lube up the pad backing plate where it contacts on the piston or bracket, the sides of the pad where it sits on the bracket shims, and the slide pins. I use this stuff from AGS called Sil-Glyde. Works great. Just make sure not to get it on the actual pad itself.
But again with your original question from what I can see they look like they're getting there but okay to still use. If you have any other questions feel free to ask :)
This is a great write up - love seeing this type of content.
To others thinking about doing this work yourself - it is extremely easy and can be done in the comfort of your driveway with some jack stands. The lift makes your life easier, but it's very doable without. Pay particularly close attention to loosing the the fill bolt before you loosen the drain bolt to save yourself the potential of calling a flatbed to bail you out of that jam.
Here's the fluid pump I bought that works great: https://www.amazon.com/Plews-55001-Lubrimatic-Standard-Bottles/dp/B000BQW5LK/
Watch some videos: Brian at Echo1 made a bunch of videos years ago on repairing and upgrading guns. My channel I haven't updated much over the past year but I do show how to take stuff apart.
Consider getting a cheap second gun to learn on.
Start small, something like swapping the inner barrel or hop rubber. Easy upgrades and fixes increase your confidence to attempt harder ones.
Tools:
Well lit area with a work mat or white bath towel. Don't try to fix your gun on your bedroom floor.
Regular philips and flat screwdrivers.
Precision screwdriver set like this cheap one or A far nicer one.
A set of metric allen keys
Hammer
Pin punches
Parts tray
Silicone plumbers grease or SuperLube Silicone grease. You can use this on everything. Lithium Moly is a better lubricant for metal parts though.
I'm sure I forgot something.
Edit: WTF formatting
Definitely do the shocks and brakes yourself! You'll save yourself nearly a thousand dollars and they really aren't even that hard to do with common hand tools.
How to replace brake pads and rotors
How to replace shock absorbers
How to replace struts (if this is what your car has rather than separate shocks and springs)
You really shouldn't need a full brake system flush for a car that's this new, but if you really want to...
The alignment will need to be done by a professional though, but all the other stuff can be done yourself for probably $150-200. You'll learn a ton about how your car works and how to fix it, and you'll probably get a lot of supplies that you didn't know you needed, like silicone paste lubricant for the brake guide pins, copper anti-sieze, and thread locker, all supplies that can be used for many, many different things, not just this one brake job!
I hope this all is helpful. I've been doing this stuff at home for many years so feel free to reach out if you need any help at all.
Honestly as long as you purchase the aluminum Y-axis plate and use spacers alongside my Z-axis bed leveler you will get just as nice results. If you have a wood Y-axis plate you may not want to use spacers and possibly look into auto bed leveling solution.
I use something like this for lubricant: http://amzn.com/B000XBH9HI
As for the spacers I use aluminum spacers that are (I think) 1/4" OD 1/4" Length >3mm ID. Aluminum while the difference is most likely very little, it still is slightly better. I just would recomend going to a hardware store and finding spacers with an OD of 1/4" and length of 1/4" the ID does not matter as long as you can fit a 3mm bolt through it. Best to find something with a somewhat thick wall.
white lithium grease.
ps; most gun oils are just normal machine oils with a couple of additives. alright for what they sell them as, but in this case you want something that will stick to the bits. WLG is the stuff they use on the moving bits of flight sticks from the factory, as well as stuff like the moving parts in any optical drive, some childrens toys where the lubrication will never be exposed to the light of day, etc.
something like this used sparingly, but with full coverage of the contact surfaces, will sort things out nicely.
cheers.
No problem. You'll probably be cleaning lint etc mostly from it if you plan to carry it around. I tend to go a little overboard when I clean my guns, but I typically don't clean my rifles/shotguns all that frequently and will go between multiple thousands of rounds before I do.
When I clean my guns I use a mat like this to absorb oils etc and this to get all of the black carbon out of it. I use these to clean the bore/inside of the barrel. I use these and these for the hard to reach places that still have something building up on them.
When you're done cleaning everything, you'll want to make sure you put oil/grease on all the components that come in contact with other parts. Basically if it rolls oil it, if it slides grease it. I use this on the slide/rails where they contact each other and use this in most other places. Then I'll wipe down the exterior with this.
Really all you have to make sure you do is get most of the debris out of the gun, and make sure you have oil on surfaces that create friction or need some kind of rust preventative coating.
This is a great looking figure. I have Spark Toy's War Within Optimus Prime and he is an amazing figure. Quality is second to none and the engineering is nearly perfect.
One note about this review:
DO NOT USE WD-40 ON A PLASTIC TOY!
Petroleum dissolves plastics and WD-40 isn't a lubricant anyway, it is a solvent. If you have a hinge or slider that is too stiff to safely move, get some powdered graphite. It is a dry lubricant, won't harm plastic and any excess can easily be wiped or brushed away.
I switched from Super Lube (which is great, I use it everywhere) to Permatex Ultra Engine Assembly Lube aka Red Lube of Love for my higher tooth-count ratchets. That stuff is extremely slick and sticky. Rats glide effortlessly, noticeably better than Super Lube. However, it is more quiet, so if you're the kind who feels or listens for the clicks you may not like it as much.
The CMS is the higher end version of Mevotech. I would rate it slightly higher than the Moog R series.
Get that one but make sure to use a good Moly grease to lube it up. It has a grease fitting so grease it up with good moly grease before installing.
Like this...
https://smile.amazon.com/Sta-Lube-SL3330-Moly-Graph-Pressure-Multi-Purpose/dp/B000KKJQL4
Bah. Save your money and go to your local hardware store. Tell them you want some clear grease like superlube. It's cheaper and perfectly fine for this kind of stuff.
Like this: http://smile.amazon.com/Super-Lube-Synthetic-Syncolon-Lubricant/dp/B000XBH9HI
Hi, I want to try to build my first custom mechanical keyboard soon. I think I have everything sorted out, but I want to know if I'm making any mistakes. This is my part list:
Hi. As both someone who uses Froglube on firearms, and as someone who techs AEG gearboxes...
It won't be harmful, but really isn't ideal. Specifically, froglube CLP isn't good, far too thin. The paste - well, if you properly treat all of the metal with the heat treatment, it'll be okay, but I still think a proper gear lubricant is in order.
You have to realize that while they are both "guns" - an AEG is far more a gearbox than a gun. You need gearbox lubricant not gun lubricant.
I highly suggest for seals and the like - a solid silicone lubricant. Barrels and mags - a teflon lubricant with alcohol application, so it dries but still provides lubrication, without getting on bbs.
For the gearbox? Go with Super lube.
Either dry graphite lube like this, available at any Wal-Mart, Target, or auto parts store, or if you want the really good stuff then try something like this molybdenum-based lubricant.
Either way, instead of just applying it to the outside of the hinge like you can with WD-40 (because it's a penetrating oil and will sink into the joints), with either of the above you would want to remove the pins from the hinges, anoint the pins with the lube, and then rehang the door.
At that point you can prepare to enjoy years of squeak-free hinges.
On the other hand, at my house the dreaded previous owner sprayed all the hinges with WD-40. I 100% guarantee they were smooth and silent for days or even weeks afterward.
Then the WD-40 dried in place, created a thin layer of basically lacquer inside the hinge, that layer was then ground into sharp particles of lacquer dust by the moving hinge parts, and those dust particles served as abrasives which ground the interior surfaces of the hinge into metallic dust. Yes, dust. It seeps from every hinge in the house, if you run your finger along the hinge you get metallicized and it won't wash off for days, and boy howdy do they all squeak ridiculously.
Please please please don't ever WD-40 a hinge, unless it belongs to a bad person you don't have the guts to kill.
I'm probably gonna die, but I use a quick blast of automotive brake parts cleaner to get my cams clean, dry them with compressed air, and apply Liquid Wrench Teflon spray lube. Seems to get the cams good and clean without scrubbing, and keeps things nice and smooth operating for a long time without attracting gunk.
The hood latches tend to seize up over time, especially if you don't lubricate them occasionally. Had the same problem on my Mk5 Jetta. If it's seized and not a broken cable, you can generally fix it pretty easily.
You need three things: a small screwdriver, a can of lightweight break-free lube like Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster penetrating oil, and a can of spray lithium lube.
Pop the safety latch and prop the hood. Locate the hood latch assembly. Using the precision tube on the spray lube, saturate the inside of the latch and latch plate with the penetrating oil (try to keep overspray from rubber parts). Let sit for 30 seconds or so, and then press on the open side of the latch with the screwdriver until the latch plate releases and locks. Pull the hood release in the cabin to reset. Repeat several times until the latch snaps closed freely when you press on it with the screwdriver. Respray with penetrator if necessary.
Use a shop towel to mop up as much penetrating oil as you can and spray the entire inside of the latch assembly with as much spray lithium as it will hold. Work the mechanism a few more times to get it into the pivot and latch plate as much as possible. Re-saturate with lithium grease and button up.
Every time you change your oil, you should relubricate the hood latch with spray lithium to keep this from happening.
EDIT: Linkies.
I'm in the same boat - mine arrives today from CMP - so I've been doing the same as you.
I got this book from Amazon, and it's proven to be a good resource for me while I've been waiting for my rifle.
One thing you'll need for sure is grease to lubricate all the rotating parts. After doing a bit of research, I arrived at this grease off Amazon.
You'll of course need ammo and enbloc clips. CMP is also the best/cheapest source of both of those, so add that to your order for the bayonet.
Finally this website is another good resource.
Enjoy your rifle!!
Superlube Synthetic grease also works great, is safe to use on plastic and is non-toxic. You can find it here, https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-21030-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518152510&sr=8-1&keywords=superlube+synthetic+grease. It comes in various sizes. You can also purchase a 14oz cartridge of it for a few dollars more but I prefer to have it in a plastic tube.
 
Some people that have used white lithium grease have said that it can dry up a bit and clump up over time. I did a lot of research before deciding on the best grease to use for the N64 joystick.
Yes. If you outer chamfer the tube edge, it will prevent the tube edge from catching on the o-ring.
Additionally, you can lightly lube the o-ring (see Super Lube 21030 Synthetic Grease (NLGI 2), 3 oz Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBH9HI/). Lubing will allow the tube to go in much easier while still maintaining a seal. You want the lightest coating you can do. I use a foam tip art brush applicator.)
Yeah, I'm restoring mine for a high school project and It's surprisingly easy, even without any mechanical knowledge, to repair these bikes. They're very simple and you can buy tons of reproduction parts from this website. Just get some metric wrenches, this, this, and download this. Welcome to the club, don't be an asshole.
EDIT: Can you link the CL ad?
I used this for my stabilizers: Super Lube 21030 Synthetic Grease (NLGI 2), 3 oz Tube by Super Lube https://www.amazon.de/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_QLATybMWDFXHH
If you can still reach the points where the wire is having contact with the oring (seems like you can) with a small paintbrush, you can still apply lube.
You can buy 100g of Shin Etsu g-30m for $15 dollars.
https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Honda-08798-9013-Silicone-Grease/dp/B00GD49GTS/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484511084&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=Shin+Etsu+G30M
https://www.amazon.com/Honda-Genuine-Shin-Etsu-Grease/dp/B006Z9TZ9M/ref=pd_sbs_263_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=WEKT07SSDX3GN5H49VKM
G-40M is available from focusattack but it's more expensive.
https://www.focusattack.com/shin-etsu-g-40m-silicone-grease-100g/
They all perform the same so its not worth paying the extra $10, and Sanwa themselves said that you can use G-30m on their joysticks just fine.
Shin etsu ALSO makes thermal compound for CPUs but this is NOT the same thing. This is VERY high quality silicone lube.
While the best way is to disassemble the top of the switch, only PCB mount switches can be accessed this way without soldering (a removal tool is on mechanicalkeyboards.com). You can just find something needle nosed or pinhead thin and press the switch down and squeeze a little into each side of the switch. You don't need a lot.
Thanks, I'll try the graphite powder first. Will any graphite powder do? I looked up this. I will probably try to get a remote as well. Will a remote for the car work right away once programmed or does a car need to have a system installed? Thanks for the help!
This is the one I bought: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00W6Q3B1G/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It has a bonus feature - the lid is perfect for standing a pen barrel vertically while eye droppering your ink into it :)
Super Lube 21030 Translucent White Color 3 oz. Automotive Accessories https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_J041Cb6HXVCWF
Multipurpose Grease, XHP 222 SPECIAL, 14.1 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009VGEEM4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_v441CbAQWR8KJ
Any grease is better than none. It’s also helps quality. I use mobile grease, left over from my CNC repair days. One tube is a lifetime supply for the little you need, use a Q-Tip and apply a thin coat all the way up, Run your Z-axis all the way up and down, and apply a little every month. I use a old medication bottle to keep a small supply next to my machine. Keep the Q-tip in the bottle. When the grease turns a dirty white, just wipe away the extra and reapply. Do not use oil, that makes a mess and disappears. If you need to clean the Z axis rod and bearing, use mineral sprits on a clean rag and wipe it clean and dry, add new grease.
$15.93 via Amazon Prime - Genuine Honda 08798-9013 Silicone Grease (Thanks, u/tadfisher)
It's a common topic, but many simply have not come across it. This Shin-etsu is what Japanese OEMs use to keep rubber weather stripping like new. It can rejuvenate stuff you though needed replaced, everyone should have a tube of it and treat yearly to bi-yearly, on any vehicle.
Use gloves, apply a very thin layer, allow to sit for at least an hour. Wipe off excess with moist cloth towel.
Posting this because Tom was recommending the cheap generic stuff.
Don't know if GCs are special, but generally yep, that's exactly it. Just make sure to do it on level ground. Have a fluid pump ready to go though; sometimes you don't have enough space to properly tip a bottle. I use this one for lots of stuff:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQW5LK
Lithium grease is more for weather resistance and heavy duty. I wouldn't use anything heavier than the ptfe silicone.
http://www2.dupont.com/Consumer_Lubricants/en_US/applications/faqs.html
Honestly though $6.82 and free shipping http://www.amazon.com/Synthetic-Grease-Syncolon-Purpose-Lubricant/dp/B000XBH9HI
That stuff is really good and not too heavy.
I also have a self-built i3 that was loud when first built. I was able to cut down on noise by doing the following:
Also, periodically make sure that all nuts are tight. They tend to loosen from vibration allowing washers to rattle around.
My next step will probably be using IGUS Drylin bearings in place of my ball bearing LM8UUs, but this plan is on hold while I consider switching to a CoreXY configuration.
Hope this helps!
I second Super Lube.
I do, however, use the silicone compounds on the compression train. Silicone grease is a little bit lighter than the synthetic, leads to less of the "suction" effect.
For high speed setups: Oil
For much more longevity: Grease
A quality white lithium grease works great for the drive train as well.
I suggest avoiding nearly all "airsoft" rebranded grease/oils, they're heavily marked up/ repackaged industrial standards.
SuperLube
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_HJlwDbSZTXJPN
NyoGel is great but expensive. SuperLube is great but cheap...
Everyone's had this happen to them at least once, haha.
Fun fact though, if you happen to have it around, silicon spray like this will disperse the bubbles very quickly and ease cleanup.
Recommend checking out the vintage section at bikeforums. Some tricks:
An oxalic acid bath for a day or so works well for removing rust from steel (but don't use it on aluminum). Flitz polish, which I used for a lot, requires a lot of "elbow grease" but gets a good shine on things – including paint (make sure the decals are below the clearcoat!), but it does strip the satin anodizing off of aluminum. WD-40 removes a lot of dried-on crud that mere soap and water fail to solvate. If a brake bolt is rusted into the frame, drip WD-40 onto it, use a block of wood as a buffer and smash it with a hammer. If the quill stem is stuck/rusted, unscrew the stem bolt a few mm, use a buffer and smash it with a hammer. - this will loosen the expander wedge. Turning the seatpost (keep the saddle attached) in one constant direction while pulling up is the best way to gradually remove it if it's stuck - twisting it back and forth will gouge it in a particularly ugly fashion. Um... get an adjustable (aka "crescent") wrench, I don't think a single nut on this bike worked with my normal wrenches.
That's all I can think of at the moment. Basic bike stuff also applies, like greasing the threads of every bolt and (almost) every metal-metal contact point (the cranks are supposed to be a dry press fit, though!), and lubing all the pivots & springs & whatnot. I like synthetic SuperLube with PTFE for grease, and a dry chain lube with Teflon for lubricant.
Thats awesome, you dont need to mangle the cables now.
Unbolt window, pull it out following that guide. Also check out this guide which has some good info to get regulator/motor out:
http://www.blueridgemiataclub.org/technical/miata-window-regulator-replacement-manual-power-windows/
There are a bunch of youtube vids that also show how to pull regulator, might be useful to watch a couple to see different explanations/angles/techniques.
You should be able to unbolt the regulator and the window motor, unclip the clips that hold the cables to the door, then remove both together thru the hole by your speaker.
Pry open the motor case and see if your wheel/cable is screwed. If it is, the quickest fix is to buy something like that amazon link below. I have seen other articles where they just replace the plastic wheel and get a cable made at a motorcycle shop. Buying the part was simplest so thats what I did.
Also, go ahead and order this shin etsu grease:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GD49GTS/ref=sxts_k2p-hero-vn-pb_bs_1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=8477664412492203526&pd_rd_wg=HdW1I&pf_rd_r=NMVKGMV6Z0D5G0F3W4ME&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-top-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B00GD49GTS&pd_rd_w=kyo5x&pf_rd_i=shin+etsu+grease&pd_rd_r=1de7bf26-7283-4357-bbce-bffd9e7018c7&ie=UTF8&qid=1527641297&sr=1
Use that on your window channels, the slot the window bushing slides in, etc.
You can also replace your window bushing w/ a delrin bushing - I haven't done this yet.
https://mossmiata.com/window-bush-improved-replcmt-delrin-2
I just cleaned up my existing bushing and lubed it up with shin etsu grease.
My windows aren't perfect yet but they go up and down now, I'm going to tear into both sides in the future and clean them up/replace bushings.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/cr/B000XBH9HI/s=sd/ref=mw_dp_cr?qid=1426043923&sr=8-1 love this stuff and is very good for so many things.
If the window doesn't go up, you may need a new regulator, new window guides, window alignment adjustment, or all of the above. Fortunately, it's actually a really easy job. Just make sure to have plenty of ShinEtsu grease before you do the job. I just did both windows on my 96 so PM me if you need any help.
Anti-Seize or Anti-Seize
Grease or Grease or My personal favorite, Great wet/winter performance
Chain Lube I use Finish Line Wet. For chains I typically wax.
I'm getting my YMD96 kit delivered on Thursday. I want to clip and lube my stabilizers based on Kim's video.
I can find Dielectric Grease locally here in Toronto but I can't find any Finish Line Teflon Grease, or any other teflon grease for that matter.
Ordering 205g0 will take 6-10 days from Apex. Here are my other, immediate options:
Would anyone of those be a replacement for 205g0 or teflon grease to lubricate the stabilizer housing?
Any reason to go with Super Lube over Permatex to lube the metal bars?
This is what I use. Big improvement in prints.
Super Lube 21030 Synthetic Grease (NLGI 2), 3 oz Tube https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_jDe7CbKSHZ7KG
I personally just use silicone grease from home depot, but I've read great things about Super Lube.
I was motivated by the recent thread with the X rated pics of the frame, so this weekend I spent quite a lot of time inspecting the bike everywhere with a flashlight for rust (owned less than 1 year). As someone who leaves a puddle on the floor after a workout, it only made sense that had to leave impact on steel. While Peloton suggests you to wipe down the bike after a ride, the places where most people would clean, such as the large smooth surface areas, may keep the bike looking good but are actually not problem areas. The problem is everywhere you miss--seat bolt and the threads on the frame, connectors, the gap to the shaft on the left pedal, the bolt and opening where the cover on the right meets the frame, underside of frame where the welds are, outer pedal threads, metal screws, etc. For the seat handle, not only were the threads in bad shape, but also I could see rust on the front and back of the handle where it meets the bolt. Basically, the more I looked for rust, the more I found. Left untreated for a few years, I think it would have evolved into bigger problems down the road.
I used Ospho on many of the painted parts and the bolts and let it sit for a day. Getting to some parts required something like a toothpick or a dental tool with the paper towel scrap to scrub. Ospho (HD equivalent here) makes rust inert and preps it for painting, then used a touch up brush and applied some black rustoleum paint to the painted areas. Then I used white lithium grease(spray) to protect all the moving parts and bolts, and even into the seat handle. To protect the underbelly of the frame where the welds are, I'm tempted to apply some stickier grease like Red and Tacky to completely seal those areas from sweat and air after now that the paint has dried, because it is not an area that can be easily and properly cleaned every time. Going forward I'll be looking it over much more frequently.
Having struggled with more rusted brake caliper hardware and rusted on drums than I care to talk about, I'm definitely in the school of mo-grease. This is my current favorite.
Regular wd40 is not a lubricant, you have to break that habit. It's designed to clean electronics and rid them of water
White lithium is what you want
Wd40 even makes aerosol can of it
WD-40 Specialist Protective White Lithium Grease Spray with SMART STRAW SPRAYS 2 WAYS, 10 OZ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L35DAWQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_rxiMDbSJYX9XC
This turned out more expensive than I expected because of the tools. Can somebody confirm that I'm buying the right stuff for the job? Am I forgetting anything?
Doesn't have to be Amazon, it's just convenient. 1994 Miata.
My recommendation: Super Lube. It's cheap, and it will work on anything. With vaseline, the petroleum will damage certain types of o-rings. Astro-glide is just not designed for this type of application either.
Lots of people also really love Nyogel. Here's a good CPF thread about greases and lubes.
"Disk Brake Quiet" Like this stuff from CRC which I use creates a rubber like film when it dries to stop metal chattering against itself. It is on the pad
facesbackings and they do not need to move once installed against the caliper bracket and caliper cylinder, so a lubricant is not needed.As far as the grease Syl-Glide is silicone based and works very well. The Permatex Ceramic lube I use lists as being "Compatible with internal/external brake rubber and plastic hardware, including ethylene-propylene rubber."
I 've got Silverhook SGPGT90 3676 for 6,5 €. Reviews are great as well as the price, didn't have time to apply though. It for my MFG Crosswind pedals, one spring is squeaky.
Have you tried lubricating the z-axis threaded rod? It's not mentioned anywhere in the assembly guide, but I found that a liberal application of super lube did wonders for my RepRapPro Mendel. The Z axis used to bind constantly when it moved too fast and now it's perfect.
The only time I ever had an issue with my elite was after having it for a long long time(about five years as well) chances ate it's the same issue I had which was the pancake motor not spinning well more and more each day.
I went online and asked if I could grease it up with WD40, but was told because of how fast the discs spin it would evaporate real quick. Got suggested to use ceramic brake grease because of it's high temp tolerance.
Permatex 24125 Ceramic Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant, 8 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0018PSASU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_TnWpDbR9N4XCM
Hadn't had a disc problem since. All you need to do is take the part that disc sits on off of the motor, grease up the lil rod, put it back together, and you should be fine.
Also you should be able to get the grease in an auto parts store really cheap, usually up by the registers in little test packets.
The same product on Amazon, with shipping to Australia.
I use Inox MX6, which you can get from Jaycar or BCF, at the recommendation of someone on here a few months back. It works well.
MTB have used the WD-40 lithium grease spraycans in some of their videos, so they at least don't have a problem with using aerosols. I've also seen some people suggest silicon sprays, like this one.
I run through a can of grease and have to refill my oil can (straight 30 weight) so much more often than my WD40 can. Nothing wrong with WD40, but for most common applications there's a better choice than WD40.
Links are fine.
Nyogel is good or you could just use this, it works just fine too.
I have a tube from 2003-ish that I'm still using, its basically a lifetime supply.
Hey another commentor made me look into it again. It seems like Super Lube (synthetic grease with PTFE/Teflon) (Amazon link) is what is recommended these days.
The other two I mentioned before have been used by a lot of people over the years and I haven't heard anything bad about them, but the folks at Prusa seem to be recommending Super Lube these days (links here and here).
FWIW, I use machine oil and I'm going to keep using machine oil. As the second link mentions, mixing lubricants can cause reactions between the old and the new stuff which can wreck your shit.
Hope this helped.
Superlube
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000XBH9HI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484767208&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=super+lube+synthetic+grease&dpPl=1&dpID=31-xhQ8JfAL&ref=plSrch
$5 a tube. Safe for incidental food contact. Should last you for years, unless you have like 500 lights or something.
Wipe off gunk on thread with microfiber cloth.
Apply a tiny dab.
Work it in by tightening and loosening a few times.
Wipe off excess.
Super Lube Grease and Oil
The most important thing is to not mix natural and synthetic grease. White lithium based grease, like this one I use, is most recommended.
Don't use anything that can eat away at the plastic in your linear bearings. Highly suggest Super Lube Synthetic Grease
https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-21030-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=asc_df_B000XBH9HI/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167152075853&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17297344115033260690&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9027607&hvtargid=pla-315922229188&psc=1
What i use on my printer, same model and rebrand name.
I can tell you from experience these work great. I also put a little bit of Superlube Synthetic Grease in mine to slow down the wear and tear.
I'd use Superlube. It's cheap, works great, and is non-reactive with the plastic.
I've been using this grease on my CH and BCG. So far it's been great.
there are some videos here... about disassembly - get your self some silicone grease and put 'Small smear' of grease on the seal before you reassemble the converter. One small tube is basically a life-time supply - several brands to choose - just make sure it is a clear silicone grease Some pen companies sell it as well - example
I can't find Super Lube easily in my area, so I am wondering if this one might be used instead:
https://www.amazon.fr/Tri-Flow-TF23004-Clear-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000C15MUU/ref=sr_1_1?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1518365758&sr=8-1&keywords=synthetic+grease
edit: Maybe this one would be good too? https://www.amazon.fr/Finish-Line-Extreme-Fluoro-Huile/dp/B002L5UL92/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518366940&sr=8-1&keywords=finish+line+extreme
edit 2: Or this one? https://www.amazon.fr/Permatex-81150-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL2RI2/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1518366744&sr=8-8&keywords=permatex
Argh. I am lost in sea of information about mech keyboards (aka, /r/mechanicalkeyboards Wiki ;)
Super Lube 21030 Translucent White Color 3 oz. Automotive Accessories https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_MDXBDbZ1BRJ18
$34 for fucking grease. Hahaha. Here:
https://www.amazon.com/Tri-Flow-TF23004-Clear-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000C15MUU
https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-37565-Silver-Anti-Seize-Lubricant/dp/B0006Q7H2W
Don't bother with Krytox. Just get some Superlube grease and oil and lightly mix them to reach your desired thickness.
Grease: https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-21030-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=sr_1_3?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1524756523&sr=1-3
Oil: https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-51004-Synthetic-Viscosity/dp/B000UKUHXK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1524756288&sr=8-2
Your desired thickness is up to the user. I was previously using very thin mixture (maybe 80% oil, 20% grease) which was OK, but I tried 70% grease, 30% oil, and I found that I preferred the thicker mixture.
I use Super Lube in my old S-K ratchets. Made them a lot quieter and very smooth.
Honestly thought, I don't think it really makes much of a difference what grease you use, as long as it's not low viscosity so it doesn't seep out of the ratchet.
A few options:
MechboardsUK is out of stock.
SwitchTop is great, but int. shipping is $8.50.
Or you can buy from Amazon. I think this is the same stuff that SwitchTop uses.
Good call on the seal grease, I use the Honda stuff on my BMW Z3 seals, you can buy it on Amazon:
[Honda Grease](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GD49GTS/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_reGiDb5BKM8D3 via @amazon)
Can I use Super Lube 21030 to get rid of the crunchy noise my aftermarket springs make, or is it too thick?
Thanks in advance!
I've changed the fuel filter 3 times now and I always use a borrowed VCDS. Here are some helpful links.
Message me with any questions.
> costar stabs are the worst!
Fight me.
They do the job of stabilizing keys far far better than cherry style ones. Way less wiggle, much smoother and if you lube them; Hooh baby. Recommend this stuff. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XBH9HI?redirect=true&pldnSite=1
Easiest way to get them on is to take both plastic inserts, and thread them into the wire on the board. Align them so you can put the cap on, and then do so slowly. Once you get the hang of it, the difference between the two is negligible. Some grease helps with the alignment process thanks to the viscosity.
should be able to find it just about anywhere, it's pretty common stuff. I have this kind, but any other brand would probably be fine:
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80345-White-Lithium-Grease/dp/B000HBNV58/
Both good:
https://www.amazon.com/WD-40-300243-Specialist-Lithium-Grease/dp/B00L35DAWQ/ref=pd_sim_328_1?ie=UTF8
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AF0ODGM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I haven't fixed those in particular, but a fat blob of o-ring compatible grease will keep most in place until assembly. For water o-rings I like Super Lube
probably a readily available NLGI 1 or 2 ("peanut butter" consistency) general purpose grease, maybe http://www.amazon.com/Valvoline-VV608-Multi-Purpose-Automotive-Industrial/dp/B000GAP43C . A similar grease should be available in pretty much every auto parts store.
Save yourself $20 and grab this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XBH9HI
I lubed up my Hog 2 years ago and while I'm about due for a re-apply, it's still smoother than it was OOB. It has not eaten the plastic.
That's probably your brake pad ears rubbing against your brake clips. I had new pads and rotors installed and had the same problem until I took the pads out and lubed the clips and pad ears. It's about $18 a bottle and lasts forever. You might also want to pull your caliper pins and lube them up as well otherwise your caliper might be stuck pressing your pads into the rotors (use a different lube for that). Most dealer brake places don't do it, but good auto shops do (here's a South Main Auto brake change video).
Ah, I did manage to find the grease you mentioned.
It's this one, right?
Thanks for the advice!
Hi guys I'm looking for a lube for stabilizers in switzerland/germany/austria.
Is this one good?
https://www.amazon.de/Super-Lube-21030-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?__mk_de_DE=ÅMÅZÕÑ&qid=1541859809&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=SUPER+LUBE&dpPl=1&dpID=314datimFhL&ref=plSrch
Could you recommend another one?
Like these? https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0081JE0OO/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1517763063&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=super+lube+silicone+grease&dpPl=1&dpID=41r5t-pNsNL&ref=plSrch
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000XBH9HI/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1517763063&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=super+lube+silicone+grease&dpPl=1&dpID=31-xhQ8JfAL&ref=plSrch
I know some people swear by this stuff to help rejuvenate the rubber. I use this as preventative maintenance on my visible rubber seals, but it definitely won't help restore seals that are already sun-damaged.
Mine have been quiet. MUCH better brakes than my previous Acura. The Acura didn't stop as well and had much more of a "pulsing" feeling. The only downside to the Volvo brakes is they do generate a LOT of black brake dust. But just wash your car and it's gone!
If you're getting a squeak when breaking then I'd suggest cleaning and re-lubricating the brake hardware. You can have a shop do this, or if you do it yourself, this is a great lubricant: https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-24125-Ceramic-Extreme-Lubricant/dp/B0018PSASU
My gas toolbox:
Teflon Tape
Replacement gaskets for every fitting in service (tank-to-regulator, and all keg gaskets, beer nut / shank washers if doing faucets)
Extra tubing for gas and beverage
Extra barb-swivel nut fittings
Spray bottle with soapy water or starsan to check for leaks
Channel-lock wrench x 2 (many brass fittings are just threadded so you may need to hold one thing in place while threading or un-threading something else.
Nylon washers if using MFL/FFL connectors (I recommend this as opposed to barb).
Hose Clamps or Oketer Clamps and crimp tool
Faucet Wrench (if you're working with shanks - you do not want to wreck a new shank with a pair of pliers)
Extra picnic taps
Extra QDs
Keg Lube Generic Equivalent: It doesn't need to say Keg on it, it needs to be food grade. Do not mix silicone-based lubricant with silicone gaskets, it will kinda melt them. I have this stuff at the moment
​
Just..not in locks please.
You want this stuff or similar.
Here is a tip for you. Get a six year warranty water heater, but make it last decades. First watch this, from about the 1:40 mark:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wzecqGyCllU
Guy is replacing the sacrificial anode. On your new one, remove it and coat the threads with a anti-seize compound:
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81343-Anti-Seize-Lubricant-Tube/dp/B0002UEOLO
Then reinstall it. Now use a marker on the tank to show the installation date. Every five years from that point you pop out the old worn-out anode and install a fresh one.
My last tank lasted 32 years, I think. The anode really reduces corrosion to almost nothing.
Dielectric lithium grease
I used this and it is better: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HBNV58/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This stuff is better for the slides
Silicone lube is good for rubber.
AGS SG8 Lubricant https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KXLR5E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hZf-AbKC79YQV
This is what I use. I can't think of anything better. Permatex 24125 Ceramic Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant, 8 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0018PSASU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_AOgOyb0Y4T5SS
You should be able to find it in a squeeze tube at any auto parts store, that's probably better then a tub for this anyway.
https://www.amazon.com/Lucas-Oil-10533-Lithium-Grease/dp/B004X70LZA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496931353&sr=8-1&keywords=lucas+white+lithium+grease
Here's the Shin Etsu grease on Amazon. It's actually a Honda part and useful for all kinds of things. It has the consistency of soft butter.
lube is lube,
this here is dielectric silicone grease, used for boilers and plumbing, safe for, rubber, copper, brass, plastic. is not electrically conductive. dies not dry out. this tube here can do you for more than 100 keyboards
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00W6Q3B1G
Any dielectric grease or white grease should do the trick. Plus you can find it in almost any home improvement or auto parts store.
Something like this this?
My suggestion is this, since you have no idea how well the car was taken care of or if it was changed at all, change it one time and drive it for a week. Then change it again and see if it helps. From there you can try 3rd party alernative if you want but these transmissions prefer OEM fluid. Not sure on this year but you typically remove the fill bolt first, then the drain bolt. Be sure to get new crush washers and clean off the debris from the drain plug. I use this pump to make it a breeze to get the fluid in with no mess. When the fluid starts to drip out you are done.
https://www.amazon.com/Plews-55001-Lubrimatic-Standard-Bottles/dp/B000BQW5LK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1505605976&sr=8-3&keywords=Fluid+pump
Long flexible hose works wonders for those awkward fillings. Something like this.
Someone here on reddit posted something like this https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80345-White-Lithium-Grease/dp/B000HBNV58 will also work.
​
But I cant confirm this!
This is what I used. I clean my rails every few weeks and apply this to them.
https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-21030-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=pd_sim_328_3?ie=UTF8&dpID=31-xhQ8JfAL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR120%2C160_&refRID=H3FTJJAS37BZQ08QAHTP
You can go over the rubber with a silicone lubricant on a cloth. May help the wind noise.
https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Honda-08798-9013-Silicone-Grease/dp/B00GD49GTS
rub the seals of the door with silicone grease (the best is Honda Shin-Etsu Silicone, but any cheap tube of silicone grease would probably do fine). I would imagine that pam would get sticky/tacky after awhile and be counterproductive.
Here are a pair of WE Lugers, the left one havint stock externals aside from the painted grips which I detailed in an earlier post, and the right one showing the results of the method detailed in this post. As with many airsoft guns, the satin black finish on the left gun looks nothing like the real thing, and lets down what is otherwise a very convincing replica.
So, here's my method for fixing that cheap paintwork, without having to strip or repaint the entire gun, and without applying bluing chemicals to Chinese mystery metal (with unpredictable results). This technique also works equally well on plastic, and can make plastic guns look much more realistic.
You'll need the following:
-Powdered graphite. You can grind up a pencil in a pinch, but it's much easier to just get powdered graphite lubricant off the Internet or your local hardware store (check by the padlocks).
-A gentle cloth for buffing, and another for applying the graphite. I use rags made from a cut-up cotton T-shirt.
-Matte varnish. I use Testor's Dullcote, but anything matte will do. You can use satin or gloss varnish for a shinier look, but you will not be able to apply additional layers of graphite after sealing.
First, squirt some graphite into a bottlecap, dip your first cloth into it, and use it to rub the graphite into the surface of the gun. If you're working on a large, flat area, you can squirt the graphite directly onto the gun and use the cloth to spread it around. Work the graphite into the surface until it has a uniform tone. Avoid handling the parts with graphite, or it'll come off on your fingers.
Once the gun is fully coated in graphite, you need to seal it to prevent the graphite from rubbing off on your hands or running off with water. Give it a few quick passes with the matte varnish, enough for a solid coat without any patchy areas. You'll notice that this will tone down the shiny metallic effect to a dull grey, this is normal.
Now, you can either call it good, or add another layer of graphite to strengthen the color and shine. The more layers you add, the greyer the gun will get. For this Artillery Luger, I did a second layer of graphite, and then sealed again with varnish.
When you're satisfied with the color and have sealed it for the last time, take your second cloth and rub down all the surfaces you applied the graphite too. Give it a little bit of force and really polish it up. This buffs the matte finish up to a mild satin, giving it that shine that real bluing has and making it look closer to how it did before sealant. If you want it to really shine, you can do a quick shot of satin or gloss varnish too and polish that in. For the Artillery Luger, I just buffed it thoroughly with the rag.
That's all it takes- it's dead simple, with no real room for error, and produces a dramatic improvement in appearance.
Bonus: A Well Webley and AGM MG42, also refinished with this method.
The oil is a little thin I prefer this one https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-21030-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=pd_sim_328_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000XBH9HI&pd_rd_r=AHY72GK05GYKYYEFP4AY&pd_rd_w=9DpH3&pd_rd_wg=pbEUO&psc=1&refRID=AHY72GK05GYKYYEFP4AY
Can also mix them 30% oil 70% grease to get something that is a little easier to apply.
You could try Liquid Wrench Dry Lubricant. I dont have any experience with it. But reading some Amazon reviews, it sounds like it would work.
I believe something like this will work. Just a light coating will do.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000XBH9HI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467894716&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=plastic+lube&dpPl=1&dpID=31-xhQ8JfAL&ref=plSrch
You actually shouldn't use a liquid lubricant on a lock, it will attract and build up dust. Use graphite.
Have you tried a little graphite into the lock to maybe lube it enough to loosen the cylinder?
For reference, I mean powder graphite like this:
powder graphite
www.amazon.com/dp/B00GD49GTS/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_qLwRCbBF096K4
I played that game everyday for a year, until I discovered this on the interwebs.
Is it safe to use silicone grease on stabs?
Some webs say it is dielectric, some people say it is not certified.... I have seen amazon reviews about the grease working as stabilizer lube but still want to ask here because it is my first build and dont want to mess it.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverhook-SGPGT90-Silicone-Grease-Tube/dp/B00W6Q3B1G
​
This is the grease Im about to buy.
I use this stuff. It came highly rated by some prominent GH'ers, and it made the stabilized keys on my V80 sound, and feel, so good!
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000XBH9HI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It's 10 quid right now but I only paid £4.50, so maybe shop around a little more?
I misspoke when I said high temperature. I went and stole the can off of my husband's work bench to make sure I had the right one. What you need is copper anti-seize lubricant. It is the same stuff they put in new Glocks. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000HBM8HU/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1487781086&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=copper+anti+seize+thread+lubricant&dpPl=1&dpID=51mzzyPnUBL&ref=plSrch
Over on GeekWack there was some special blend floating around, but it was going for the same price is cocaine. I would suggest this one if you want to go cheaper.
Sure -- i edited my comment to say REGREASE not DEGREASE for the valve... typo
this is the stuff i use
Use a screw driver to pry off the cap. Check youtube to see what I mean.
Of course, you don't need to remove any of this to grease them, you can use any aerosol lubricant that is able to use volatiles as a carrier to deposit the lube into the joint, then evaporates leaving the lube in place.
Silicon spray is perfect for door hinges. Won't leave any visible nastiness either.
https://www.wd40specialist.com/products/silicone-lubricant/
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80070-Silicone-Lubricant-Aerosol/dp/B000HBM5S2
Hard to beat the price and shipping of Amazon IMO.
I use this stuff when I do brake jobs and it seems to work well.
Can you post a link of the product(red lithium grease from Walmart). I saw your pics back when and looked at walmart and couldn't find it, I got some white lithium grease on Amazon. Did you buy the syringe at Walmart also?
I followed a lube guide on here and lubed all my stabs with this lithium grease and it's been great. This stuff is super cheap and makes a world of difference.
http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-24125-Ceramic-Extreme-Lubricant/dp/B0018PSASU
Between the rim and the rotor. ;)
I just used Super Lube on an old stick I'm tearing down and rebuilding. It works fine, although since I just did it I don't know yet how long it will last.
Depends on the plastic. If you are referencing automotive lubes then yea dont use lithium grease for auto plastics. But for the plastics in analog sticks, it should be fine.
Personally I use this for my game stuff.
Sorry... I've read this several times and I don't really know what you're wanting to do....
I do know that graphite dust isn't poisonous though, it's a very common lubricant, I've used it before amazon.com/Powdered-Graphite-Lubricant
As far as being able to form graphite into shapes, I don't think that's going to work unless you have a high temp furnace and perhaps a hydraulic press....
I live overseas. There are a lot of items that Amazon won't ship overseas. Example
If you really want it: https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-09128-Copper-Anti-Seize-Lubricant/dp/B000HBM8HU/
They do make "gun grease." However, there's nothing special about it and it's just repackaged grease in small tubes that are actually pretty convenient.
Go to your local auto parts store and buy yourself a 1 lb. tub of Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease. It'll cost you less than $10 and that'll be about what you pay for 1 oz. of "Gun Grease." The only limitation to this is that you can't throw it in your shooting bag and keep it handy whenever you're shooting.
If you want a tube of something, I like Triflow or Krieghoff Gun Glide.
At the end of the day, though, it's most important to keep the grease clean. When you're done shooting, wipe it off and reapply.
WD-40 is not meant to be used as a general lubricant. It strips most grease off of whatever it is sprayed on. I would use something like silicone spray or electronics grease to stop the squeaking.
Permatex 80070 Silicone Spray Lubricant
Super Lube(R) Multi-Purpose Grease
Since people are going to tell me I'm an idiot and that WD-40 is too a lubricant here is their own words on it.
WD-40® Myths, Legends & Fun Facts
Go for this one if you want a 3oz tube.
Alternatively, 82340 works great.
I also forgot that if you're working on a old bike like that, go and get some Liquid Wrench. Use it on all your rusty nuts and bolts before you start working on something.
Yup found it on amazon.ca
Silicone grease from amazon.ca
Those work too.
I prefer this type: https://www.amazon.com/Plews-55001-Lubrimatic-Standard-Bottles/dp/B000BQW5LK
IMO these are way, way easier:
https://www.amazon.com/Plews-55001-Lubrimatic-Standard-Bottles/dp/B000BQW5LK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1498616106&sr=8-2&keywords=oil+pump
screws right on to the bottle of oil. pump till it's empty and swap to the next bottle until fluid runs out the fill hole.
I have one of these for each car/fluid type.
Lift the jeep as high as you can. Rest frame on jack stands and let the axle droop. Then hit it with one of these.
https://www.amazon.com/Plews-55001-Lubrimatic-Standard-Bottles/dp/B000BQW5LK
I will never try and fill the rear end with out one again
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C15MUU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This one? https://www.amazon.com/Liquid-Wrench-L512-Lubricant-CERFLON/dp/B000CPJLE4
Like this?
That will work, but I prefer aerosol sprays for my hockey gear. It's all chemically identical. Just spray it on and wipe it down with a rag.
Permatex 80070 Silicone Spray Lubricant, 10.25 oz. net Aerosol Can https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HBM5S2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_Fmb7wbVNP1F5A
White Lithium Grease
Permatex Lithium Grease
https://www.amazon.com/Lubricant-Grease-Nyogel-50g-Tube/dp/B00W6KWK1Y seems in stock but I've used https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80345-White-Lithium-Grease/dp/B000HBNV58/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_263_bs_lp_img_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=9JBBKWHAVF09F98QKWYP in a pinch without issue
I have Prime, and even with prime there is a minimum order of $25 or they won't ship it out.
For example i need some grease, but couldn't order without adding more to my cart. These are called Add-on items
White lithium grease is generally the direction I go.
If you need grease grease, I use this or this depending on what I'm greasing.
But for oil, I use Ballistol or Hoppes oil.
SILGLYDE LUBE COMPOUND-- 8 OZ. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KXLR5E/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_Th9Cub10EB47C made just for what you are asking for.
What did you pack the bearings with originally?
Here's what I use:
https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-21030-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468280863&sr=8-1&keywords=superlube
Amazon.
So use amazon.ca
Super lube
Is this what you suggested? http://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-21030-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000XBH9HI/
Superlube http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_Pbvsub127V363
Oil
Grease
What I use https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-21030-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494483488&sr=8-1&keywords=super+lube
https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-51004-Synthetic-Viscosity/dp/B000UKUHXK/ plus https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-21030-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000XBH9HI/
Mix it to a desireable thickness.
I use https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XBH9HI on leadscrews and https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000UKUHXK on linear rods.
IIRC, Super Lube is the Voron-approved grease.
here's what I use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XBH9HI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1