(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best greases & lubricants

If anything you have says food grade, you're most likely set.

This stuff is the best, and it'll last you forever..

http://www.amazon.com/Dow-Corning-Molykote-Grease-Lubricant/dp/B0141NIS8M

This stuff also works, but washes away more quickly.

http://www.amazon.com/McGlaughlin-Oil-Petrol-Gel-Lubricant-4oz/dp/B01G5Y9Y7E

It's for sure expensive for so seemingly few applications, but you can really use this stuff everywhere. Doorknobs, squeaky hinges, tools, bicycles, etc...

As for the frequency of cleaning...

Since you are all stainless, it makes cleaning frequency kind of a contentious topic... The Brewer's Association currently advocates for every two weeks, but through commercial applications to hobby level, with stainless/vinyl contact, up to a four week interval can be permissible.. Especially on a direct draw system such as yours.

What would probably be most convenient, would be to clean every keg change using a little hand pump bottle like this:

http://www.micromatic.com/beer-line-cleaning-kits-and-equipment/deluxe-beer-line-cleaning-ck-1100

Super easy to use.. Remove the faucet and coupler, pack the lines with the cleaning solution and soak for 45 minutes. Use the leftover chemical from the soak to brush the faucets and couplers clean.. Rinse, reassemble, and your done.

You do have another option...

Some people opt to never clean, and instead just replace the length of line every few months. The coupler and faucets would still need to soaked and brushed, but using John Guest (push-to-connect) terminations, changing lines becomes fairly trivial.

A $25 dollar 100ft roll of barrier tubing would last you several replacements, and it will remain cleaner longer. The big drawback with barrier is that it more susceptible to kinking than vinyl is.. But it is better for the beer, and perfectly suited to your application. And you won't need any overpriced, questionable quality cleaning equipment... Just unplug the line, coil it up, and soak it.

https://www.freshwatersystems.com/p-2502-john-guest-female-adapter-bspp-516-x-58-bspp.aspx

These fittings would attach to your couplers and and shanks, and just as before, you would use ~6ft of 3/16" ID barrier to get about 12psi of restriction. I don't know this website, but Accuflex's Bevlex 235 is the stuff I'd recommend.

http://www.birdmanbrewing.com/accuflex-bev-seal-ultra-barrier-tubing-3-16-id-100ft-free-shipping/?gclid=CIDbk8OPj80CFUpahgodKNYITA

What's also cool about using a quick connect line, is that it simplifies pouring a larger range of carbonation levels and styles.

Say you want to put something on with a higher volume of Co2, let's say 3.0 v/v... To maintain carbonation at 38º, now you need you set your gauge to 17 psi. Your flow rate will now cause turbulent pouring since you only have ~12 psi of restriction.. A net 5 psi positive pressure will pour too fast. How can we fix it?

Just plug in a 8' length of line instead of 6', and you've balanced out the system.

Or maybe you have a barleywine or stout that you don't want to drink at 38ºF... At 2.5 v/v and 38ºF, you need about 12 psi of straight Co2. That same beer stored at 50ºF would need 18 psi to maintain 2.5 v/v, or it would de-gas and foam like crazy. With that badass controller you bought, adjusting the serving temperature is an option available to you.

You might be seeing flow control (restrictor) style faucets more prevalent these days.. As beer styles come out with greater ranges of carbonation, bars and restaurants can't just hack their system open to add/subtract a few feet of line, but the system still requires the restriction be dialed in to operate efficiently. So they restrict at the faucets because they can't restrict at the lines. Pretty neat..

Junky establishments won't care sometimes, and will potentially let the beer go flat using a lower (incorrect) pressure to get more manageable flow rate... Basically saying F you to the people that worked hard to make it. It's whack.

Enjoy your setup... I get super excited seeing people do this stuff right! That setup you built is going to make some people very happy.

OK, I'm thinking we do this in stages.

Stage 1 which will allow you to get it riding now and will be perfectly capable of a 4-5mi round trip.

Cable Cutters ($20) stick to the better units but probably no need to go for Park Tool. BBB make a nice one, although I currently have an IceToolz cable cutter because I can't find my good ones.
For the brakes you will need a 4th hand cable stretcher like this Pedros ($17) unit which is a third the cost of a Park Tool unit.
Will also need cables, easiest way is to grab a DIY Jagwire ($24) kit which has both brake and shift cables.
These Vittoria Zaffiro tyres are a good compromise of value, durability and performance. I use these a lot and they're on my training bike. Will also need tubes, and being a commuter, flats are not your friend so these Schwalbe tubes are a good idea. ($60)
Arundel cork bar tape ($20)
A new chain for your bike is probably the only way forward, and this KMC is perfect ($6)
The brake pads on your calipers will now doubt be old, and also a 30yo pad compound, so not overly efficient. Would strongly recommend these Kool Stop Continental brake pads as a starting point before we get to Phase 2 ($10)

Grease for the Bottom Bracket and Headset (and wheel hubs) is also needed, but there's absolutely no need to buy bike-specific grease, so this Valvoline tub as an example would be ideal ($10) .
The chain needs to be lubed, and in dry conditions I like Finish Line dry lube. Others will have their own preferences, but this is a good starting point.

Also should think about replacing the saddle, but this is very subjective and not something that can be recommended in terms of which saddle to buy. Maybe scoot around Craigslist for your area and see what comes up..

In terms of learning the skills, the Park Tool video channel is surprisingly good although heavy on product placement and endorsement although this is to be expected. There are lots of alternatives to Park Tool tools though, including Pedro's, BBB and others. None of the skills associated with your era of bike are all that difficult, and refurbishing this to be usable in your context is completely feasible in your garage.

May also want to consider buying one of the entry-level bike toolkits like this tool kit as a starting point ($40) although this is just an example however is the same kit as others sell just rebranded.

So phase 1 (not including the tool kit) is about $160-ish and watching a bunch of videos.

sorry for the essay, but once I started it just sort of kept going. Phase 2 is removal of existing driveline, and upgrading to a Shimano 2x8sp indexed group with modern dual pivot calipers and modern alloy wheels. But we can cover that later.

I have had a lot of success using 'Professional! Super Premium Polishing Paste'. I'm in the UK and ordered mine from:
http://sportingcutlery.co.uk/b234
You can use it by hand with a cloth or with a buffing wheel on a Dremel. It is best of you can remove the bearing before you use it as it will find its way in. However, I have had no issues using it with a bonded bearing. I wash the whole spinner with dish soap and use a brush to clean the bearing out. I then flush with water and use Jizer by Swarfega to ensure the bearing spins properly and is water free. https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/h7b/Deb-SJZ500ML-Swarfega-Jizer-500ml/B003TEMZ70/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491408162&sr=8-1&keywords=swarfega+jizer
A can of compressed air then cleans the remainder out.
You will be left with a very clean and gleaming spinner. Further 'polishing' can be done with Renaissance Pre-Lim surface cleaner https://www.restexpress.co.uk/acatalog/Renaissance_Pre-Lim_Surface_Cleaner.html should you think you want to. Being a fountain pen fanatic, I then protect the finish with some Renaissance Micro-Crystaline Wax Polish. You can use this on loads of stuff and a little goes a very long way! https://www.restexpress.co.uk/acatalog/Renaissance_wax.html
Hope the above proves useful.

Well if you're searching for lubricant, including "lubricant" in the search terms tends to help. I'm not entirely sure but something like this should work.

Another lubricant recommendation is electronics-grade white lithium grease like this. It's not regarded quite as good for plunger tubes/o-rings but is considered better for various other parts that rub against eachother. Though the actual difference is pretty minimal.

Edit; /u/Duke_Wintermaul seems to have a better silicone grease recommendation.

As /u/Phil12312 pointed out, the brass coupling should have it's screws a little loose.

You may have a burr on the leadscrew that doesn't "move a little faster".

Try moving the leadscrew using the 1mm setting from the bottom to the top by hand see if you can spot it.

If there is a burr, you can smooth it by hand with a piece of fine (400 - 600 Grit) silicon carbide sanding paper.

Lubricant - \u\Dylanator13 's suggestion of 3-in-one Oil is just plain WRONG. (Sorry, Buddy! :-) )

It's fine that you used what you have handy, it's your machine. If you choose to mistreat it, that's between you and your machine. But PLEASE don't recommend this to anyone else, it's just wrong!

"There are many different suggestions of what lubricant to use online" - Yeah, and the majority of them are the blind leading the blind. Threaded rods need a fine GREASE, not a light OIL that breaks down quickly, and can run down the shaft fouling the stepper motor.

The proper lubricant for a leadscrew is a VERY THIN, EVEN application of either a Lithium based grease, or what many have found superior, a heavy duty PTFE based grease like Super Lube.

It has excellent lube properties, has a very long breakdown time (unlike many greases), and isn't prone to attracting dust which wears bearings.

Here's an Amazon Link:
https://smile.amazon.com/Super-Lube-Dielectric-Synthetic-Authorized/dp/B00C5014K8


But I got mine here in the US at Ace Hardware (was actually MUCH cheaper!) :

http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3506761

If you're in Europe, UK or Australia, I don't know where you can get it, maybe someone can jump in!


Let us know if you solve it, K?


PuterPro

Very easy to do a rotor and pad job yourself. Does require a couple of tools though. Even with the tools you'll be saving a bunch of money.

Changed the front brakes on my sister's civic for less than $150 dollars for the parts.

Besides sockets and a ratchet, you'll want to either get a C-clamp or a a brake caliper tool: https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24400-Disc-Brake-Spreader/dp/B0002SQU9K

Also some brake lubricant: https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-24129-Silicone-Extreme-Lubricant/dp/B01L1LV9F6/ref=sr_1_11?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1496554333&sr=1-11&keywords=brake+lube

And sometimes its tough to take the rotor screws off, for that you will need an impact driver: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002O16UPM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Since your car is pretty new, you might not need the impact driver unless your rotors are rusty.

I used this rotor + pad set for the car : https://www.amazon.com/Power-Stop-K1043-Evolution-Drilled/dp/B005FKMOWM

I've put powerstop rotors and pads on 4 cars now and they have worked quiet well. Some people were saying that the drilled rotors are prone to cracks, but that won't happen for a daily drive car on the street. Other rotor and pad options:

https://www.amazon.com/Wagner-BD125669E-Premium-Coated-Brake/dp/B00HJJDSZO

https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-17D914C-Professional-Ceramic-Front/dp/B000IYY7PW

Rears will be different than the ones I posted, so check and see what will fit. Amazon makes it pretty easy, just enter your car and it'll tell you what fits.

Since you have watched videos on the change, I don't think you need me to tell you how to do it.

The biggest mistake I see mechanics do when changing the brake pads is how they deal with the brake caliper 'slide pins.' The slide pins being clean, rust free, and lubricated with the proper lubricant is very important to longevity of the pads.

What I see most mechanics do is either leave the slide pins alone or just use a petroleum-based 'brake grease' for the slide pins when they relube them. This will not do well, because the slide pins need a silicone-based caliper grease that will not eat the protective rubber boots that cover the slide pins. Many brake greases say "rubber safe" on the label when they actually are not (example Permatex Green Ultra brake grease). 3M's Silicone Paste is great for these pins, as well as Motorcraft XG3-A. Either one will do. Many times the boots will be swollen (due to petroleum grease eating away at it)

Also make sure he bleeds your brakes thoroughly to get that old dirty brake fluid out of the system. Many mechanics not do this when doing a cheap quick brake job because it means cracking open the bleeder screws (and possibly breaking them!) and dealing with that associated headache. Old fluid absorbs water and water rusts your brake lines from the inside out, as well as cause premature brake fade during heated stops.

It might be wise to also bring him the brake pad hardware (associated clips and shims) to go along with the pads and rotors.

Finally, find out what the pad manufacturer recommends for breaking in the brakes (bedding the brakes). Doing this is pretty important to proper smooth operation throughout its life.

J-Lube doesn't really taste very good, but neither does any other lube. It is slightly sweeter than cum lube because it contains a bit of sucrose.

By itself it's pretty much a clear lube, but you can make it white the same way BD does. Just mix in a bit of fine powdered TiO2

The easiest way to mix it would probably be to do it in large batches mixing the powder into hot water using a blender.

I switched from Super Lube (which is great, I use it everywhere) to Permatex Ultra Engine Assembly Lube aka Red Lube of Love for my higher tooth-count ratchets. That stuff is extremely slick and sticky. Rats glide effortlessly, noticeably better than Super Lube. However, it is more quiet, so if you're the kind who feels or listens for the clicks you may not like it as much.

The hood latches tend to seize up over time, especially if you don't lubricate them occasionally. Had the same problem on my Mk5 Jetta. If it's seized and not a broken cable, you can generally fix it pretty easily.

You need three things: a small screwdriver, a can of lightweight break-free lube like Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster penetrating oil, and a can of spray lithium lube.

Pop the safety latch and prop the hood. Locate the hood latch assembly. Using the precision tube on the spray lube, saturate the inside of the latch and latch plate with the penetrating oil (try to keep overspray from rubber parts). Let sit for 30 seconds or so, and then press on the open side of the latch with the screwdriver until the latch plate releases and locks. Pull the hood release in the cabin to reset. Repeat several times until the latch snaps closed freely when you press on it with the screwdriver. Respray with penetrator if necessary.

Use a shop towel to mop up as much penetrating oil as you can and spray the entire inside of the latch assembly with as much spray lithium as it will hold. Work the mechanism a few more times to get it into the pivot and latch plate as much as possible. Re-saturate with lithium grease and button up.

Every time you change your oil, you should relubricate the hood latch with spray lithium to keep this from happening.

EDIT: Linkies.

that bike's bearings are likely in great shape, but dry. the original schwinn bearings are better than any modern (chinese) replacements you can buy, other than NOS schwinn parts found on ebay.

i think the biggest problem you're going to have with that particular bike, as a novice, is the brake and derailleur removal, replacement, and adjustment. not impossible, but they can be problematic.

the best way to clean the bearings before repacking them is to soak them overnight or longer in a can of carburetor cleaner. then pack them with actual wheel bearing grease.

schwinn-specific tires are required. tubes are interchangeable, but tires are not.

I have no knowledge of gun specifics, but I do a fair bit of work on motorcycles/cars/etc.

> I found a small amount of lube was necessary to allow the stock to be easily adjusted, but be careful here as grit likes to stick to lube.

That's where I'd typically end up using a graphite lube of some sort. Sprays on wet, drys to actually dry.

yes, it is normal, you could use grease to reduce friction see this.
In my opinion, the best grease is Nyogel 767A
Another option is to replace, remove or mod the spring.
personally, I like much more the tension on the warthog than the chewing gum feeling of other joysticks.

Anti-Seize or Anti-Seize

Grease or Grease or My personal favorite, Great wet/winter performance

Chain Lube I use Finish Line Wet. For chains I typically wax.

Check the manual and parts guide and get some Dow 33 grease. And the maintenance is easy. There's YouTube videos on it. Basically just clean and re-grease the o-rings between each day of play.

Make sure to clean the slide pins and their holes well. Then apply brake grease on the pins and in the hole. That should solve the issue.

This is what I use

I have been trying hi-temp wheel bearing grease for six months and have been very happy so far. For $5-10 you can get a 16 oz tub that will outlast your rifle. I like it because it does not evaporate like aerosolized lubricants after months in storage and it does not burn off like most firearm oils.

There is some debate in the forums about whether greases containing graphite could potentially accelerate corrosion within the receiver but you can easily find synthetic greases without it. I am using the Mag 1 grease and have not noticed any corrosion so far, and it does contain graphite.

https://www.amazon.com/Mag-720-High-Temp-Bearing-Grease/dp/B0077K8WJC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473301961&sr=8-1&keywords=wheel+bearing+grease

https://www.amazon.com/Allstar-ALL78241-Timken-Premium-Bearing/dp/B006K8VIAM/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1473301961&sr=8-4&keywords=wheel+bearing+grease

What makes bicycle grease special is the bicycle-themed containers and large mark-up.

Here's what I've been using for the last few years:

http://www.amazon.com/Allstar-ALL78241-Timken-Premium-Bearing/dp/B006K8VIAM

And I still have like 80% left of that $5 container.

Do throughly clean out the old grease as much as possible and try to avoid mixing greases, they are not all compatible.

Hahaha, I'm actually using an H100i with some shitty subpar thermal paste. I went online, did some researching and purchased this paste after many tests proving it to be the most potent in terms of cooling.

I'm expecting my temperatures to drop a solid 5-10C. I idle around approximately 32C, more than likely will be at 28 or below with the new paste.

The reason I'm expecting such a significant decrease is because I'm also adding 3 new fans to increase air-flow.

• 200MM NZXT Fan
  
• Two 140MM NZXT Fan
  
  Can't wait. :)

Yes... in fact, it appears that WD-40 now makes one with their awesome flip-top straw cans!

https://www.amazon.com/Specialist-Lithium-Grease-Spray-White/dp/B00MIWVKPM

For someone who touts using the correct tool all the time, watching that made me want to punch him. Use a piston ring compressor, piston ring tool, and a proper valve spring tool. He should also be giving up on his clean hands and put some oil on various parts of the engine while reassembling.

I don't know if drawing on it with a pencil would work but you can buy powdered graphite, sold as a lubricant for stuck lock cylinders and such, which works like a charm e.g. this one of many on Amazon.

WD-40 will get you most of the way there, but you really want something with a higher viscosity, like white lithium grease. For $5 you can get enough to fix every squeak on campus: https://www.amzn.com/B00MIWVKPM/

Edit: you can also put in a service request through your Cal Poly portal, but that will take forever.

You talking about this stuff which I was told to put on the slide pins and "ears" of the brake pads? Or this other stuff which clearly advertises stopping squeaks but I've never used and really don't know where I'm supposed to apply it?

Also where am I supposed to apply it and what is the difference between them? Could I use both? Also can I use it on my motorcycle because the front brake squeaks constantly even tho the pads are fine?

I got these lube and grease.
Krytox GPL 207 Grease, Pure PFPE/PTFE, 0.5 oz Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MWLD61A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_wUmCCbTXMAEDQ

CRC 05109 0.5 Ounces Technician... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CCIDAA?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

The grease goes on anything metal and the lube goes on plastic to plastic contact.

This guy's channel was very helpful and informative for me! You should check it out.
/u/taehatypes
https://youtu.be/cD5Zj-ZgMLA

Live and learn, right? You should be able to get the glue off using a penetrating oil. Liquid wrench has good reviews, and won't eat the paint off your car.

I wouldn't be spraying WD-40 onto the window itself. I would spray it on the little rubber track that the window follows as it rolls up. I would spray WD-40 into the crevasse.

Maybe I should just use this or a similar product?

Thanks.

Thank you!!

https://www.amazon.com/Tuniq-TX-4-Conducting-Thermal-Compound/dp/B00405DHG0

I just replaced my switch assembly and starter relay. Initial problem was as you mentioned. Had manual and next thing in the list to test was relay, friend showed up and shorted with a screw driver. Bike fired right up. He said thats the problem, $10 @ ebay and easy fix that didnt work. Dissassembled switch cause it was a little sticky, had to pull it out after starting once in a while or it'd keep spinning the starter motor, and watched what happened when hitting the button. The button moved, as it should, but also moved the button seat on the inside of the housing. So, sometimes worked, sometimes stuck, sometimes didn't work at all. The button is similar to shorting the relay in that it just connects the circuit long enough to start the bike. So I went to the local bike recycle place and dug through bins of handlebar housings untill I found a switch that looked like mine inside and out. $40 dollars and an hour later I was starting the bile every time with ease. Some $11 liquid electrical tape on the button seat wire connections that had split wire housings due to all the moving around while inspecting and di-electric grease made all the moving parts and plug connections lubed and water tight. I took a vid too if you're interested...

Sears Craftsman 4 pc. Spark Plug Socket Set, 3/8 in. drive
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-4-pc-spark-plug-socket-set-3-8/p-00934504000P

ToolTopia: Sunex Tools (SUN8844)
4 Piece 3/8" Drive Universal Spark Plug Socket Set

http://www.tooltopia.com/sunex-tools-8844.aspx

Anti-seize compound For most cars the recommendation is to put a dab of anti-seize compound or a couple drops of engine oil on the threads. Personally I always use Loctite silver anti-seize compound. Always.

https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-37539-Silver-Grade-Anti-Seize-Lubricant/dp/B0006Q7H2M

I would try some graphite powdered lubricant like this product: https://www.amazon.com/American-grease-stick-graphite-lubricant/dp/B000K7TOLE/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=3LR5ACS70C943&keywords=graphite+lubricant&qid=1557155482&s=gateway&sprefix=graphite&sr=8-3

Did she see the staining on any other doors? The black grease looks like some kind of graphite dry lube. https://www.amazon.com/CRC-Graphite-Lube-Aerosol-Black/dp/B007I9XUD0

Amazon is ALMOST a Canadian supplier:
https://www.amazon.com/Lubricant-Grease-Nyogel-50g-Tube/dp/B00W6KWK1Y
This is enough for three or four lifetimes...
Only thing magic about it is the dampening effect. If you don't care about smooth drag, like a throttle, there are cheaper solutions.

If those slide pins end up seizing, you'll probably end up with uneven brake pad wear and random noises coming from your brakes (this is caused because the brake pads are still in contact with the rotor even if you release the brakes Those pins are what guides the pads to the rotor at the correct angle. If they're seized, you'll end up with stuck calipers that grind even if you're not braking. The grease is cheap, so there really isn't a reason not to do it. The bottle below will last a lifetime. Also, make sure those rubber boots are intact, if they're ripped, replace them.

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-24110-Ultra-Brake-Caliper/dp/B000HBNV6W

By the way, there really is such a thing as headlight/blinker light fluid. It's more like a thin paste, it's conductive, and it's oil based so it keeps the contacts from corroding if they get exposed to Amy moisture.

And no, I'm not shitting you.

Ok, so... you really shouldn't do that. The oil will eventually gum up and cause more problems. The correct solution is powdered graphite.



Also, removed a few comments of people being rude about this being obvious. Clearly, they're not so good at this either.

This

https://www.amazon.com/Liquid-Wrench-L106-Penetrating-Oil/dp/B00200MR8Q

Didnt know this one, Thanks!

https://www.amazon.com/Lubricant-Grease-Nyogel-50g-Tube/dp/B00W6KWK1Y

I'm in France too and I bought the Nyogel from Amazon and got it for 35$ (with shipping)

> I have Prime, and even with prime there is a minimum order of $25[1] or they won't ship it out.

That's not how it works. Add-on items are not Prime-eligible, but when you add them to a $25 order with other Prime items, they'll ship as if they're Prime.

http://i.imgur.com/7ZyfTLn.png

Your grease is not Prime-Eligible

But this grease is Prime-Eligible

Gears need grease because it clings to them, oil will just fling off. Look for: SuperLube PTFE Synthetic or Lithium Moly grease.

https://www.amazon.com/Lubricant-Grease-Nyogel-50g-Tube/dp/B00W6KWK1Y seems in stock but I've used https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80345-White-Lithium-Grease/dp/B000HBNV58/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_263_bs_lp_img_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=9JBBKWHAVF09F98QKWYP in a pinch without issue

I think you're thinking of the silver stuff? The permatex stuff for caliper pins I get is a green synthetic grease. Link: https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-24110-Ultra-Brake-Caliper/dp/B000HBNV6W/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=permatex+synthetic+brake+parts+lubricant&qid=1559278638&s=gateway&sprefix=permatex+sy&sr=8-2

I used a bit of dry graphite lube on the pivot points of my Leatherman when it was new.

https://mechboards.co.uk/shop/all/stabiliser-lubricant/

https://www.amazon.de/SuperLube-Mehrzweck-Synthetik-basierend-Fett/dp/B00C5014K8/

I heard it's a common issue and you can get this lubricant for it to fix the issue.

https://www.amazon.com/CRC-Graphite-Lube-Aerosol-Black/dp/B007I9XUD0

This stuff:

http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-24110-Ultra-Brake-Caliper/dp/B000HBNV6W

I got this one https://www.amazon.com/Lubricant-Grease-Nyogel-50g-Tube/dp/B00W6KWK1Y

Anti-seize is good stuff but not really good for moving parts. Something that is going to be rotating or touching something rotating at extreme speeds is going to need high temp grease on it. Check this

Get some penetrating oil and spray the bolts or screws in advance. https://www.amazon.com/Liquid-Wrench-L106-Penetrating-Oil/dp/B00200MR8Q or some other brand is fine

As others have said just go with DOW 33......you can find a giant tube of it on Amazon under Dow Corning Molykote 33. Or this link : http://www.amazon.com/Dow-Corning-Molykote-Grease-Lubricant/dp/B0141NIS8M/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1450356580&sr=8-2-fkmr1&keywords=dow+33+mo

I shoot and tech the vanquishes and luxes for my team and bought a single tube of this 2+ yrs ago and I still have a ton left.

This stuff expanded the rubber anti rattle sleeves on my pins and caused it to seize. Do not use. Spend the extra money and use silicone.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000HBNV6W/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1473264236&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=permatex+brake+grease&dpPl=1&dpID=51EWEeZ9GHL&ref=plSrch

If the rotor is rubbing against the caliper bracket it has a distinct metal on metal sound, however if the hub is walking out what you might be hearing is the inside of the tire rubbing against the rear shock absorber casing. Maybe it is more noticeable when wet? Look at the shocks absorber for rub marks and also look over the tire itself for rub marks. (If you see wear on the inside part of the tire tread, that is a clue that your hub is walking out and needs to be replaced).

The sound could also just be the bearings themselves being bad and grinding down, but not sure why moisture would affect it.

But since the noise goes away after touching the brake pedal, it is most likely a caliper not sliding correctly. This often happens after pads are replaced and people use the wrong lubricant on the caliper pins and/or the pads. The pads need a synthetic grease, the caliper pins need a silicon paste.