Reddit mentions: The best automotive replacement exhaust hangers

Well, you can buy exhaust clamps with hangers. Like this or this. Check those for sizing before you order! I didn't look up the correct exhaust diameter for your Cherokee.

You probably don't need a new cat, and many mufflers bolt directly to the catalytic converter flange. From there back you will definitely need new pipe.

Whether you should have one built or build one yourself depends on your money situation and your gumption. A muffler shop can probably fab up a muffler and tailpipe for around $250 for cheap, and on these, that'll last around five years.

I have the nameless axleback 4 inch tips and the gap between the tip and the bumper is around 1-1.5 inch with the stock hangers. So i bought the yellow adjustable hangers and now the gap is only like 0.25 inch. Looks much better!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N3VHKCO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Try to loosen the s, mid and front pipe a little, sliding the mufflers on the OG hangers and if you can't get it how you want, try these. Each notch is about 1cm maybe a little more. You can tell mine hangs a bit lower now but from a standing position they look perfect.

UPDATE!

Found it on amazon!
https://www.amazon.com/Walker-36377-Exhaust-Hanger/dp/B000C8ZB1I/ref=pd_sbs_263_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000C8ZB1I&pd_rd_r=B8SF2EGW6VG311HXPSM9&pd_rd_w=1isUb&pd_rd_wg=Z5FDT&psc=1&refRID=B8SF2EGW6VG311HXPSM9

The reason I originally asked was because it's getting in the way of where my new hitch would bolt on. Looks like I'll have to remove this, then make a bracket that'll hold up a new one.

Mine don't stick out quite that much

3.5" Staggered double wall. I did by these bushings but I don't know why that would help really.

Walker makes a replacement of the factory hanger. It just bolts on...if you can get the old ones off first.

Walker 36377 Exhaust Hanger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C8ZB1I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_M0-iDb23JGK89

Exhaust hanger removal tool.

amazon.com/dp/B0012S9A5U/

Fair warning, it doesn't fit perfectly at first. I had to expand the holes on the mid pipe flange to accommodate the new mounting bolts. Easy enough with a step bit /other drill bit and a round file. The hanger rods are also pretty long to they almost touch the tow loops underneath. In addition to them being long they are also really close to the muffler, so I also had to order longer hangers so it would sit lower.

J2 Engineering for Mazda 3 Hatchback 2.0L 4.5 inches Round Double Wall Muffler Tip Catback Exhaust System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0764VLQNQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_tqO0Db4KNAPQ7

CarXX 4 Hole Exhaust Hanger Bushing Muffler Insulator Shock Absorbent High Density Rubber Universal - Pack of 2 (Blue) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FN79YYJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_2wO0DbC1B9YAN

My first actual ""real" job was when I worked in an Automotive shop in High School. Welding exhausts was part of the job.

Tips n' tricks I learned:

Exhaust pipe can be a trick to get find a good ground on and hangers aren't always easy to clamp onto. Take an old truck battery cable, strip off the insulation and make a neat braid out of the copper. Now you have a pony tail ground! To use it, just wrap/loop the bare copper braid around the exhaust pipe and clamp your normal welding ground clamp to it.

Always leak check your work! When you're done welding up the pipe, have an assistant hold a rag or old welding glove over the exhaust outlet to bump up the backpressure while you look/listen/feel for leaks.

Most steel exhaust pipe has "aluminizing" which is just a thin coating of aluminum on the steel. It welds a lot nicer if you strip off the aluminizing with a die grinder flap wheel. Also if the pipe that you're joining to is used and has a lot of carbon/oil residue on the inside, try your best to clean that up too before welding. If you try welding to a pipe with a lot of built up carbon on the inside it'll offgas which can cause problems with the bead wanting to "volcano" and give a nasty looking weld. Clean pipe welds nicest and a little prep goes a long way.

Get the lightest and flexiest MIG whip you can because welding exhaust on the vehicle can require some tricky contortion at times. Also if you can get a Bernard gun with the rotatable head, that helps for tight areas.

Most exhaust pipe is only 16 gauge, so .025" wire is all ya need.

Some semi-specialized tools you may want to get:

These if you don't own a pair already. They work a lot easier than the old standby of using Channellocks and penetrating oil to slip off rubber isolaters.

A can of high temp silver spray paint. Putting a quick coat of high temp paint over where you've welded and/or stripped the aluminizing off the pipe is considered a nice touch. Only takes a couple minutes and 50 cents worth of spraypaint and customers don't like seeing rust on an exhaust they just had replaced a few weeks ago.

"Stud grip" Channellocks or Knipex Cobra pliers because you'll be "cherrying up" a lot of really crusty 3/8", 8mm, and 10mm studs with a torch and you need something that can get a good bite on them to turn them out.

An air cut-off wheel to hack off all the old hangers and hardware that you can't salvage and won't be reusing. I use a crappy old IR 3" , but if you can afford an extended reach model This one is the bomb

It depends entirely on the exhaust you buy. Some may require additional or replacement mounts. I strongly recommend buying a set of exhaust hanger removal pliers like these. When I did the catback on my car, I spent the most time fighting with the damn hangers. If you don't have a set of removal pliers, they're a real pain in the ass. It's also helpful to have a spray-on lubricant (silicone works well) so the rubber hangers slide on and off easier. Aside from that, and assuming your stock exhaust comes off without too much of an issue, it should be fairly trivial.