Reddit mentions: The best automotive vapor canister purge valves

I just changed mine today. It's on top of the engine.

Remove the oil cap, then remove the large plastic cover over the top of the engine. The purge valve is on the drivers side top and has a hose with a green cap connected to it.
It has two hoses and an electrical connector.

The hoses have two different locks to hold them in place. Be careful unplugging as the lock on the hose closest to the driver has a white locking tab that can break easily.

Remove the nut below the bracket and the whole bracket comes off. The underside of the bracket has a tab holding the purge valve in place. Bend it slightly to allow the valve to slide off the bracket. Slide the new one on and make sure to bend the tab back the way it was to hold it in place. Install electrical connector and hoses making sure all lock.

Mine was showing check engine light and hard to start after fill up. CEL went away immediately and no starting issues after tonight's fill up.

Here's a link to the one I bought. Verify you're ordering the right part for your car as mine is 2006 Ion 2 2.2 liter. Yours may be different.

ACDelco 214-1680 GM Original Equipment Vapor Canister Purge Valve https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NWA6T0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_959JzbXGDN9EX

I can't comment on the consequences, other than suggesting it's not a great idea to drive it hard in this condition.

You can get an aftermarket valve on Amazon quickly for cheap. PLEASE VERIFY this is the right part, but I'm pretty sure it is.

Dorman 911-702 Mazda 6 Purge Valve https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004AIHBR8/

Sounds like the purge based on your description. It's a plug and play part, takes five minutes. The lifespan of these things are only 30-40k miles. Already replaced mine a few times.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007QB8JA4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Just to be certain, this is the part right,

ACDelco 214-2317 GM Original Equipment Vapor Canister Purge Valve https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004JBI5EE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kYIYCb9CSATW0

Thank you for your suggestions. I finally got a check engine light. I got the code checked at Auto Zone. It came up needing this part, which is a common problem for these Mazdas (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0049E1LY2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). Quick replacement. It's running well now. Thank you again.

ACDelco 214-2317 GM Original Equipment Vapor Canister Purge Valve https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004JBI5EE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_KZrQBbZ4R8P75

This was the case with mine as well. My car always had a ticking since I bought it (which is indeed normal), but one day the ticking got noticeably louder. Even people on the sidewalk could hear the ticking over the engine. After replacing the purge valve , thing quieted down again.

> The car feels very slow to drive and at idle the rpms go up and down which causes it to shake and vibrate.

I experienced this twice. Both times it was the purge valve, which is a plug-and-play part. 20-30 bucks on Amazon, and about 5 minutes to replace. Also, check your valve cover for hissing. If it's not, its most likely purge.

If you have issues after getting fuel, then it's 100% the purge valve.

Mom's car is the 1.8. Goto local auto parts shop. Have them read the codes. Print out codes.

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Purge valve for 1.8 was $16.92

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004JBI5EE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Snorkle was $18.29

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y2VDGM1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Those two parts took me about 30 minutes total to replace. Youtube has a ton of videos on the Sonic....

by googling i get purge valve and purge valve solenoid. probably not the same?
i found this on amazon looking for purge valve: https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-911-700-Purge-Valve/dp/B0049E1LY2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481663636&sr=8-1&keywords=purge+valve+mazda+3

is this it?

Purge valve.


OES Genuine Purge Valve https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00449IQN6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_rYYBzbNTSA9PC



This is not the one for your 98 model though. This was what i needed for my 05 Baja Turbo

The cost of the equipment used for this job is expensive...that's why the shop is expensive (you're basically paying for their equipment or it's been already paid off. Since you don't have $$, I'll recommend 2 steps (It'll make you be a parts-swapper, but cheaper than a full diagnosis). Most of the time, the common bad parts are the gas cap (I doubt it) or the evap purge valve: https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-911-503-Evaporative-Emissions-Canister/dp/B002E39YBW/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Infiniti%7C68&Model=G35%7C885&Year=2007%7C2007&ie=UTF8&n=15684181&newVehicle=1&s=automotive&vehicleId=1&vehicleType=automotive

Just replace the purge valve (follow a diy on youtube), buy a Foxwell OBD2 scanner (at least $50), clear the code, and you should be good to go. The purge valve is often the issue....otherwise diagnosis is needed.

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Edit: to pass the BS emissions test, just use CRC Emissions: https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05063-Guaranteed-Emissions-Formula/dp/B000CIPUR8#customerReviews read and follow directions.

That’s part of your emissions system. Likely called an Evap or evaporative house.

Dorman 911-239 Evaporative Emissions Canister Vent Valve (With Filter Assembly) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D8VLULK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_PgjaCbA27HR15

Replace the evap canister purge valve. It's a $30 $18 part on Amazon. Sits on top of the engine near the back. Takes just a few minutes to swap out. The parts are slightly different between the 1.8L and 1.4L turbo engines.

|Engine Size|GM Part No|Amazon Item|
|:-|:-|:-|
|1.4L (turbo)|55573017|https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CQSHWG2/|
|1.8L (n/a)|55567453|https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004JBI5EE/|

Pro tip: do not "top off" when filling up. This creates additional back pressure in the tank that over time causes the failure of the purge valve.

My check engine light came on and a code reader showed P144C at just under 55k miles on a 2013 1.6L SE back in 2018. This did not affect driveability at all, just a light on the dash. Your issue may have been more serious if there was a loss of engine power.

Dealers wanted $340-$400 to fix it. I bought a Dorman 911-757 part (currently $61 on Amazon) and replaced it myself in about 15 minutes. The check engine light went away on its own as soon as the new part was installed.

Found this Guy above says its normal though. Not sure if I should replace it. I wonder what it does and I could probably tell if I ruined it by driving around on a leaking hose.

That's a broken vacuum fitting. The vacuum line diagram for that motor shows the Evap. Canister Purge Valve in that location, and the pictures match.

Since the part that's broken is the fitting on the solenoid, you'll have to replace it. It looks like there's just one screw holding it on; that should be an easy fix.

[EDIT] I just saw that you broke off both of the lines going into that part. Your local auto parts store will have the right diameter line to replace what you need to there. Just bring it in with you and they'll be able to match it.

A quick short term solution would be to cap off the broken vacuum lines. Your fuel economy will suffer, but you'll regain engine performance.

On the Speed either your gas cap is loose or your purge valve solenoid is starting to fail. The solenoids are known to go bad on 1st gen Speeds. It's an easy fix, takes less than 10 minutes to change and the part cost $20.

On the 6 it's probably a dirty throttle body. They get gummed up over time from pcv blow by and EGR valve gases. With enough build up they can get stuck I've seen it first hand. Removing and cleaning is not as hard as you would think. Will take around 30 minutes and all you need is a 10mm socket, ratchet and some rags. You might want to also check your air filter and spark plugs while you're at it.

P0455 is technically a 'Gross EVAP leak or No EVAP flow.' P0401 is low EGR flow, which on this car is measured through the pressure differential between exhaust pressure and manifold pressure. P2187 is lean bank 1.

What these codes tell us, is either you have multiple issues or you have one issue that the computer can't quite put its finger on. Most likely, the Purge Valve (under the hood, not the Canister Vent Valve, by the tank), is leaking. It should normally be closed but is sticking open.

This is probably what you need. To verify, find it under the hood. Unplug it, and the vacuum lines from it and blow through it. If you can, its faulty. Alternatively disconnect just the line that runs back to the firewall, start the car, and see if you can feel suction at the valve with it running.