>Here, it says that a brake sensor is recommended.

It's a good idea on mostly any ebike, but PAS more then hand-throttle. It's because you really don't have a super amount of control over the motor output and it's easy to accidentally trigger a bike by moving the pedals around and getting read to go at a stop light. That sort of thing.

A torque PAS is more typically going to combine a cadence sensor and torque sensor into one thing. This is done to improve responsiveness as the controller can be aware of pedal movement immediately and give a starting boost. It's hard to balance out responsiveness so that you eliminate the 'laggy' feeling, but not so much that the bike jumps out by mistake.

​

>I don't want to use a throttle, but I want to have the temperature sensor installed.

I am pretty sure the temperature sensor people talk about goes into the motor and is independent from the throttle.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wb8Omk6e7GI

But I suggest getting a low profile thumb throttle unless there is some sort of legal prohibition against it. You can put it on your left side of the bike, which is a nice setup since you won't need your front derailleur controls anymore and it won't get in the way.

It's less useful then on a hub motor (which can help you get going if you are in the wrong gear), but you'll find situations were it's handy to have.

​

>Should I keep the nylon blue gear until it fails, or should I replace it with a brass one right away?

Keep the nylon gears. They are very tough and help make up for some of the sloppy tolerances in the bike motor.

If people are regularly stripping them it's more then likely because they are allowing the motor to get too hot. A overheating motor won't get hot enough to melt the gears, but it'll get hot enough to get the nylon soft.

​

>How do I figure out which tool I need to remove the existing bottom bracket and cranks on my bike?

The main thing you'll need is a crank puller. Otherwise getting the crank off is a nightmare.

https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-CCP-22-Crank-Puller/dp/B001VS1M20/

You'll need a chain breaker tool as well to size your new chain to your bike. Some multi-tools have one built it. They are pretty cheap things.

Bottom bracket tool is probably needed, but it depends on your BB.

https://www.parktool.com/product/bottom-bracket-tool-bbt-22

https://www.amazon.com/BlueSunshine-Bicycle-Bracket-Removal-Remover/dp/B07MFLJJBZ/

You don't necessarily need it 100% if you are creative... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GKWWwhRH3cg But it'll make the job a lot easier. Get down and look closely at the BB, though, and make sure that yours is that 20 spline style. Most are.

And watch a couple videos on it. The drive side is reverse threaded which can be confusing.

​

>What is the more resistant and weatherproof connector for the battery? XT60 or XT90?

They are both the same connector, more or less. Xt90 is just physically larger and handles more current, but otherwise the same.

I use Xt90s for the battery connector (the S stands for 'anti-spark'). Otherwise xt60's are sufficient for your bike.

I've read people have had success with red loctite and an english bottom bracket lockring that can thread onto the freewheel threads.

If I was to do that method I'd rotofix the cog on with the loctite, tightening as much as possible until the spokes started stressing, and then with more red loctite you thread the english bb lockring on and get that as tight as possible with a tool and/or a hammer and flathead screw driver.

It's not going to be as surefire as a proper cog and lockring setup but if money's tight and you're okay with minimal to no skidding and use a front brake properly, it's a viable option. I have a fixed/free hub and I'm considering this method for when I want to get another cog.

Here's a link to the special lockring you'd need. A reviewer mentions that he used it for a conversion and has had success. http://www.amazon.com/FSA-Bracket-Lockring-English-Threads/dp/B001CN6RU6

If you do this, please be careful and make sure everything is tight and secure as much as possible.

It depends on how much you want to spend. (This, again, is why I suggested stopping now, and starting with a better / lighter / more compatible bike.)

Basically, you're at 24lbs for those parts, without tires, tubes, grips, brakes, brake levers, seat, pedals, chain, stem, headset, etc.,which means the bike is likely going to be over 30lbs once completed.

Assuming you're not going to listen to me (bikes do that to people), and you want to go ahead and build it up as a modern geared bike, here's what I'd do if I were in your shoes.

Get the Dimension Value Series 27" freewheel rear wheel for <$40, and the front wheel for about $30. Together, they'll weigh 2270g, which is 5lbs even. Add another pound or so for the freewheel and you should come to around 6lbs. (I'm not sure the math here is working well, as it should end up being substantially lighter than your existing wheelset.)

Also note that in addition to a modern 3 piece double crank, you're going to need a 1 piece to 3 piece crank adapter, which will allow you to use a modern sealed bottom bracket and a standard crank. (You're probably going to want to use a square taper crank / bottom bracket to make things easy.)

You may also consider building it up as a single speed, as that way you could thread a single BMX freewheel on the back instead of a multi-speed freewheel, could use a cheap track crank, and wouldn't have to worry about sorting out the shifters / derailleurs.

Good luck!

Hey everyone, due to the end of the world sale by on-one, my plans on getting a new frame might have accelerated a bit.

I bought a 2015 Cannondale F29 last December in Ohio and then moved to Seattle a few month later (wasn't expecting to). The F29 would have been all I ever needed for the Ohio trails, but the trails in Washington are a bit more exciting (I mostly ride Tiger Mountain), and I end up going over the bars fairly frequently with the 71° HTA. I have been thinking about getting a 29er all mountain hardtail, looking at the TransAm, Honzo, Big Wig, and Yelli/EPO. I haven't heard much about the Titus Fireline Evo, and wondered if it would also be a good fit.

It looks like I can transfer over most of my parts from the F29 as well, but I would appreciate if someone took a second look.

Fork: replace 100mm damper with 120mm. I have an email from Cannondale saying this is possible, even for 29er, but I can find no info on this anywhere. Definitely going to follow up before making any purchases.

F29 headtube: 134mm (for fork crown spacing)
Titus headtube: 119mm
Lefty-for-all type 1-1/8" adapter steerer tube with internal headsets required to meet stack height. 1-1/8" stem required to replace 1.5" stem.

F29 seat tube: 27.2
Titus seat tube: 31.6
Shims would be required for my gravity dropper.

Bottom bracket:
F29: BB30
Fireline: BSA 68mm
Would this bottom bracket work to use my existing cranks? Am I correct in thinking all Hollowtech II cranks and BB are cross compatible?

F29 rear axle: 10mm QR
Fireline rear axel: 135mmx10mm QR

F29 brake mount, rotor size: IS, 180mm rotor
Fireline brake mount, rotor size: Post, 160mm min
Will need adapter from IS to post mount.

If I use it, the front derailer may need a clamp on cable stop.

Did I miss anything? Kickstand compatibility? :P

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/race-face-narrow-wide-single-chainring/rp-prod109723

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/shimano-ultegra-6800-xt-m8000-hg701-qlink-chain/rp-prod170322

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/shimano-xt-m8000-11-speed-11-46t-cassette/rp-prod149701

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/shimano-slx-m7000-11-speed-rear-shifter/rp-prod148460

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/shimano-slx-m7000-11-speed-rear-derailleur/rp-prod148563

https://www.jensonusa.com/Shimano-Acera-M361-Square-Crankset (I bought the 175mm 22/32/42. Much cheaper than buying a 1x crankset and works every bit as good. Just take off the chainrings. I just mounted my new 30t narrow wide chainring where the 32t was)

https://www.amazon.com/Origin8-Single-Ring-Chainring-Bolts/dp/B00RNFR68O

https://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Sealed-Bottom-Bracket-113-5mm/dp/B00H63MJHG (My memory is totally failing me as to whether this was actually necessary or not for the conversion, but my stock BB was spinning pretty rough, and it was a cheap upgrade, so I got it.)

It was totally worth it. Good luck and let me know if you have any questions.

They sell adaptors for these, let me see if I can find. Probably more money than it’s worth for adaptors+BB+crankset+pedals. For the $120 or so in parts alone you could probably get something a little nicer, unless you have a strong sentimental attachment or love for the frame

Edit : You’d have to measure to be sure, but something like this is the cheapest option, whereas something like this gets you into all types of BB options

I scored this Rockhopper for $50! Now I’m looking to modernize pretty much the whole thing. Please critique my build list below. Would you get anything different, or better, or maybe anything else that would be better value? Did I miss anything? Do you think all of this will work together? It will be my adventure bike for bike packing, gravel, off road touring.

FOMTOR 25.4 stem 60mm 35 Degree Bike Handlebar Stem Riserhttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G71CZG6

UPANBIKE Road Mountain Bike Bicycle Stem Riser Adapter 1 1/8" φ22.2mm https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071LLR8PR

Action 1-1/8" W/Adjuster Black Cable Hanger Fronthttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XCSKWCQ

KMC X9L 9 Speed Chain Gold Coatedhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B0789HPV7M

Wheel Set 26 x 1.5, Mavic x M117, Deore M530 9Sp Hub, Blk SS Spokes, 32Hhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B0033H53VI

Shimano Deore 9-Speed Mountain Bicycle Rear Derailleur - RD-M591https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003OWPRLI

Maxxis DTH 26 X 2.15 60A Kevlar Blackhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B004XIT4YS

XCSOURCE MTB Mountain Bike Crankset Aluminum Bicycle Crank Sprocket and Bottom Bracket Kit 170mm CS400https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LWXUV7I

RaceFace 104mm Single Chain Ringhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D3FG6ZW

​

Edit: Adding Shifters and Cassette

SHIMANO Deore SL-M590 9-Speed Shift Lever
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IKVJF8Y/

JGbike Sunrace 8 9 10 Speed MTB Cassette 11-40T 1 Wide Ratio Including 22mm Extender - for SRAM Shimano-Type splined freehub Body
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MRLWHEO

it's definitely aluminum. look at the welds at the headtube.

on their aluminum road bikes they seem to use HTII bottom brackets. This is consistent with ones I've seen in person.
random example: https://www.fujibikes.com/usa/bikes/road/womens/finest/finest-2-1

the cheapest htII bottom bracket starts at $16 on amazon

https://www.amazon.com/SHIMANO-BB-RS500-Bicycle-Bottom-Bracket/dp/B01C4UX74E

personally on my threaded shell bikes I just spring for the dura-ace BB at $40. Not a huge price jump but you know it's going to be the best quality.

where I do agree is that they're pretty simple to install, but no shop around me is only charging $10 to do it. Especially if you buy the part elsewhere.

BB standards and headest standards are retarded as fuck.

Brief lesson on BBs:

• Basically, most common standard that was on most bikes is the threaded bottom bracket, with a shell width (ie the left right edge to edge distance of the hole that holds the bottom bracket) of either 68 or 73mm. 68 was common for road bikes, while 73 was common for mtb. You would get something like this, which you would thread into the hole from one side and the cup from the other, and then mount the cranks.
  
  
• Shimano then figured out that you can make the cranks stronger by having bearings wider from each other. So what they did is made a threaded bottom bracket, except the bearings would sit in the external cups. The inner diameter of the BB is 24mm, designed for the 24mm crank spindles, (known as Shimano Hollowtech2). Note that the distance from the inner edges of the cups is 73mm as the wider standard is use on most mountain bikes, and the BB comes with the spacers to make it fit a 68mm width shell for the road or smaller width bikes (some modern dirt jumpers use a 68mm shell). However, the cups themselves are about ~10mm wide.
  
  
• Then bike makers found out that you can make the system even stiffer if you make the cups go in the frame, and thus was born the concept of press fit bottom bracket. Because the cup width was integrated into the shell, the shell width grew by about 20mm (the width of the 2 cups as before). So a bike with the 68 mm shell grew to the 86-90 mm range, and the bike with the 93mm shell grew to the 92-95mm range.
  
  
• The first way of doing the press fit bottom brackets was simply pressing the bearings into the shell. This is the BB90/95 standard and is the widest because of the support structure needed for the bearing. The bearings would be pressed in and fit flush into the frame.
  
  
• The next iteration of that was to include a sealed bearing type that was placed in cups from the factory, and these cups would be press fit into the frame. The cups themselves have a small ~2mm lip on them that acts a stopper against the shell edge when you push them in, so the shell width got smaller for these bottom brackets. So the BB95 became the PF92 (which is what yours is, sometimes called BB92), and the BB90 became the PF86. The advantage of this is that the unit was a sealed type, which meant less contamination, and the cups took up the compression stresses, which means less of a chance of overpressing the bearing during installation, which would lead to a reduce bearing life.
  
  http://problemsolversbike.com/files/tech/Bottom_Bracket_Standards_Reference.pdf
  
  So to answer your question, most shimano hollowtech2 crank will fit, as it is 24 mm and is the correct width for all of the above. The replacement bottom bracket from shimano for yours is called the shimano xt m800 press fit bottom bracket. A lot of them will say shell width of 68/73mm, which is fine because the "true" shell width from bearing to bearing is still 68/73mm.
  

I am pretty sure they replaced them with the BB-UN-54. It is same sorta thing, newer model.

You're right, your link doesn't specify that, but you could ether measure it yourself or take it to a bike shop and have them do it for you. This page is handy to give you an idea of what you are looking at, but you are concerned with 2 main specifications: Threading and width.

Chances are you using an english threaded bottom bracket, as I really don't expect your particular bike to be Italian threaded (as you would guess, it is usually italian bikes built with these), so your main concern is width. Measure your bottom bracket end to end of the bits that stick out and that will be your width. Proabably somewhere around 108-115. Once you have those two measurements, you should have all you need to replace your BB. When in doubt, speak to a professional in person or provide us pictures of your actual part. Good luck.


edit: something like what you would find on this page.

(FS) USA-MA Boston

Wabi Lightning SE Frameset 58cm Metallic Blue Frame + Carbon Fork ($350)

Wabi Product Page

Photos

Get a killer deal on Wabi's flagship frameset made with glorious top of the line Columbus Spirit steel. Has some scratching which I have touched up with a matching paint. Frameset has no dents or structural issues. Comes with frame and matching carbon fork will need new headset.

Currently leaning toward local pickup, but definitely inquire if you are interested in having it shipped.

172.5mm Silver Omniums 48T w/ Ceramic Bottom Bracket ($125 for Crankset) ($40 for Bottom Bracket)

Product Page of BB

Photos

Has minor dings from normal use, but is in very good shape overall. Bearings are still very smooth in ceramic BB.

Will do local pickup or PP/Shipping @ buyer's expense

The omnomnomiums are certainly worthy of the hype, just make sure you've got a frame that's worthy of them. Messengers are great too, especially if you don't want to spend all that cash and have a huge disparity between the quality of some parts in your build. Honestly any sealed shimano BB between $30-$50 will work absolutely fine for many, many miles. This one is a good option, but I use Eighthinch's and haven't experienced any problems in 2,000 miles.

Last time I was shopping for a crank for my 2008 Trek 4300 disc I got lucky and the crank that came with a BB fit:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01LWXUV7I/ref=ppx_yo_mob_b_inactive_ship_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Lucky, because I had no idea about bottom brackets (and I still don't really). But that one fit and works great and was affordable.

Here are your options:

1. You could swap the bottom bracket for a 24mm spindle version, return the raceface and buy a new chainring that fits your SLX crankset you just bought.
   
   Bottom Bracket Here
   
   Chainring Here
   
   
2. You could return the crankset and chainring, and purchase a used but good quality square taper crankset. Something like this would work.
   
   In the second case, you would swap out the single chainring linked in the first case.
   
   I'm sure you know that the bike you purchased was cheap relative to what's out there in the market. Because of that, you won't be able to find quality parts that use the standards found on that bike, such as a square taper bottom bracket.
   
   The choice is: how much money do you spend putting nice components on that bike, and how much of that money will you consider to be a waste as you continue in the hobby throughout this season and into next year.
   
   I'd go with option 1.
   
   To answer your last question: 1x setups have chainrings listed at 1x11 to let people know it'll work with the newer standard. The goal of a narrow wide is to grip the chain by grabbing the entire interior surface. That 1x11 chainring will work with your setup.

Yeah right now I think I'll save money by just getting a few proper extractors in the sizes I need and stick to sockets for installation. Digging a little more it seems some cheap Chinese-made press and drift sets have popped up in various places online in the past few months. Seems comprehensive enough, and they're pretty basic CNCed shapes so I doubt quality is lacking much. When I'm feeling a bit more flush, I'll probably get one.

Now that you have a hubmotor in a 20-inch BMX rim, the controller plus battery, you can keep an eye out for junk bike frames that can be assembled into something very useful. The Edgerunner is a longtail cargobike with a normal front half, and a small wheel at the back, so the cargobags can sit lower, and the weight of cargo strapped onto the top of the cargo rack doesn't sit up so high and wobbly.

That being said, the Edgerunner is expensive, but easy to replicate without any welding. You can take a rear suspension swingarm from a junk bike, and bolt its' pedal-axle (bottom bracket cartridge) into the rear dropouts of a normal bike that has no suspension. You must keep an eye out for a rear suspension that has its pedal axle mounted in the suspension arm (half do, half have the BB on the front half of the frame) Once you find that part, the rest is easy.

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=54518

Also, some BB cartridges have male-threaded studs, and the pedal-arms are connected by nuts. A few have female threaded sockets, and that style is much better for this, because you can buy bolts of any needed length, and take up any slack with washers. Here is a BB spindle with female threaded sockets: https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-BB-UN26-Square-Bottom-Bracket/dp/B007FP6NB8/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_468_lp_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&refRID=C7C9MA1TVY01J4VM8560

Cartridge bottom brackets definitely wear out like anything else with bearings in them. It sounds like you just need a new one.

​

Like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Truvativ-Giga-Pipe-Bottom-Bracket/dp/B000HDLM4S?th=1&psc=1

New Rear Wheel - had a 6 speed before so had to get a new wheel to fit the 11 speed and just shoved it in there to spread the dropouts.

New rear mech, cassette, shifter, chainring, and chain SLX m7000 - may or may not be real Shimano.....

New Crankset and Bottom Bracket - came wrapped in chinese newspaper. But.... it all works wonderfully!!!

Cartridge bearing BBs are slightly more difficult to work with, they require a large adjustable crescent wrench and a splined tool that engages with the cartridge cups. Sometimes the cups require quite a bit of force to remove. The right hand cup is reverse threaded, so be sure to remember to wrench in the opposite direction you think.

Pull the BB out and either take it to your LBS for them to measure, or just use a ruler or calipers to measure the spindle going through the BB from end-to-end. I'd expect something like 113-118mm in length. Shimano makes a cheap square taper cartridge BB that replaces that one and is pretty ubiquitous and will mate up with your crank easily. I've found that the quality of those FSA units is poor so you can call it an upgrade!

Check out this page for a really in-depth guide!

edit: left for right

Absolutely! It's an IXF external bottom bracket / crank set combo, paired with a Snail 30t tooth narrow wide chainring, all available on Amazon. Super affordable. The conversion required a few specialty tools for removing the old hardware (square taper crank puller and internal bottom bracket removal tool) with one hollowtech wrench for installing the new bottom bracket.


There's a few good tutorials out there, just be mindful since you are working on the aluminum frame itself and stripped bottom bracket threads mean you'll need a new frame. I also took a few links out of the chain to help with chain slap and this thing is damn near silent now.

Tires are Bontrager XR4s, but they seem to have been discontinued in 29x2.3. They grip really nice off road but suck on the road due to high rolling resistance. Going to have to try something new once these wear out since anything wider might start scraping the frame.

It looks like your U-lock has the bracket to connect to a mount like this one. Do you still have the mount? It looks like you have room to mount it on the non-drive side of the seat tube like I did on mine.

I'm sure you could find some others, but here you go, all from one site.

https://www.bike24.de/1.php?content=8;product=94313;menu=1000,297,295;mid=0;pgc=0;page=1;orderby=2

https://www.bike24.de/1.php?content=8;product=56874;menu=1000,297,295;mid=0;pgc=0;page=1;orderby=2

https://www.bike24.de/1.php?content=8;product=204902;menu=1000,297,295;mid=0;pgc=0;page=1;orderby=2

Edit: and Amazon.com for good measure

nice thanks. whats the bb spindle length on http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DTIG9U/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

shimano 55?

This is the holder I got. Should fit the evolution just fine. It comes with 2 sizes of the clip to put on your lock.

So something like this in the 68x110mm option?

Hmm you are right, that picture does show a 1 piece crankset, though this one on the Fuji site shows a 3 piece: http://www.fujibikes.com/usa/bikes/cruiser-comfort/beach-cruiser/cape-may

If you have a one piece, you can use this adapter to convert to three piece https://www.amazon.com/Truvativ-00-6415-027-000-American-To-Euro-Bmx-Adapter/dp/B000VT550K

Most chain tensioners are not designed for wide ranging chain slack, but a rear derailleur is designed for that. I would recommend using one even if you don't run gears on the back

if the chain is getting slack every two weeks then maybe the wheel is moving in the dropout? it shouldn't stretch that much that fast

Sure! This here is your standard very basic shimano unit.

I just use the mounting bracket that came with my kryptonite lock (this thing: https://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Transit-Flexframe-U-Bicycle-Bracket/dp/B005YPKLLE/). It works well enough.

I meant FlexFrame. They're cheap-ish.

Truvativ makes a one piece (ashtabula) to English cartridge bottom bracket adapter. You'll need that, a bottom bracket of the appropriate length (usually defined by crank manufacturer) and your new single speed crank set.

If it's the 28 TPI American size one piece, this is the adapter you're talking about. Going to need to remove the pressed in cups and then press in the adapter. After that OP can put any standard 68mm BSA BB in as far as I know.

There are different diameters. Most cartridge BBs are 68mm, with some 73mm.

I think this is your only option.

U Lock Holder