(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best body repair buffing & polishing pads

Hey so here’s the deal. 8mm throw on a polisher is outdated as hell and the griots garage polisher is not a bad way to start learning but it will take you forever to get out scratches with an 8mm throw. Max shine offers a 15mm throw option for pretty much the same price and is good for beginners. (Link below)

As far as compounds go I would be looking for one step polishes to learn with. I will also supply a link to my personal favorite one step polish. I’ve been able to remove 2000 grit sandpaper marks with this polish and the correct pad. Don’t get wrapped around the axel at the fact that it has ceramic in the name, it just means that they advertise that you can put a ceramic product on the paint right after using the polish instead of removing it with alcohol or prepsol spray.

As far as pads go I would recommend using a couple pretty easy to use pads when you start out. One being the euro fiber pad that should be your go to for removing scratches. It’s not too aggressive but can get out scratches easily. Next you should get a finishing pad for final polishing and that will give you the shine you’re looking for.

Now for the sealant. I personally don’t use any type of sealant that I have to apply via polisher and I try to stick with the spray on type sealants/ protectants. There are a million on the market and are increasing everyday, especially with the ceramic craze going on. Beadmaker is a good option for protection and being hydrophobic. Adams polishes offers some good options so you might check them out. If I were you I would ditch any type of wax that you are using and start looking into the newer stuff on the market. I personally use a ceramic detail spray from technicians choice that I like. It doesn’t last as long as I’d like it to but the application is the most simple I’ve found and for $25 a gallon it is pretty affordable. (That price is at a detail supply store where I live)

Here’s some extra tips that I think you should look into since it sounds like you are learning. YouTube is where you can find great how to videos on what you’re trying to learn and also a place to learn about new products. Also try to find a detail supply store near where you live. Their products are much better and cost a lot less than going to a major auto parts store to buy detailing products.

Technicians Choice Ceramic One Step Polish https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NBWFP6K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_IMs8Cb934239H

Maxshine ShineMaster M15 15mm/900 Watt Dual Action/DA Polisher https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07343W387/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RIs8CbS0QESQJ

Buff and Shine Uro-Fiber Pad For Compounding and Polishing- 6 inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZY328FH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HRs8Cb4F8S3A2

Rupes Yellow Fine Polishing Foam Pad 6" (130mm/150mm) - 2 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JK4Y6WX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4Ts8Cb5EB2PC2

Here's my opinion

Shampoo- good choice, make sure you're using a washing mitt and not any kitchen sponge, something like http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-X3002-Microfiber-Wash-Mitt/dp/B000RXKR6M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405903374&sr=8-1&keywords=washing+mitt will be fine

Towel- while you can dry with any microfiber towel, it will be best to use one specifically made for drying so you don't have to wring out the towel after every wipe. Also, using a low quality microfiber has the possibility of scratching the paint. My recommendation would be http://www.theragcompany.com/Dry-Me-A-River-26-x-59-Premium-Microfiber-Waffle-Weave-Towel-42009-2659-OW.htm

Wax- I have no idea how much you want to spend, but if you're going to be applying it by hand you generally want to go with a carnuba wax as they are easier to apply and wipe off. My personal favorite is pinnacle souveran liquid wax. Probably out of the price range for a beginner, but it's super easy to apply/wipe off, and it produces amazing results and lasts a lot longer than other carnuba waxes. http://www.autogeek.net/pinliqsouvwa.html If you want something on the cheaper end and can be purchased in auto stores, go with Meguiar's gold class liquid wax. http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G7016-Carnauba-Premium-Liquid/dp/B0002UNOYM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1405903940&sr=8-2&keywords=gold+class+wax

Applicators- If you're applying wax, go with a foam applicator pad like these lake country applicator pads(make sure they're the red color) with this palm grip

Headlights- If you have a power drill, I recommend this http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G3000-Heavy-Headlight-Restoration/dp/B004HCOE72/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405904455&sr=8-1&keywords=meguiars+headlight kit as it attaches right to the drill and works very well.

Sorry this kinda became a small essay, I hope it's not too verbose but there's a lot of ground to cover if you're just starting out.

I got kinda shafted started out since I had a pretty damn oxidized, single-stage red Miata as well as a pretty-ok silver 2015 Subaru, so I kinda had to build two kits at a time since I didn't want to cross-contaminate my systems. I ended up getting a bunch of orange and white Lake Country CCS foam pads along with playing around with some Meguiars foam cutting pads for the Miata and the 5" Meguiars Microfiber Correction Kit for the Subaru and anything else that's clear coated.

I'm using the same Harbor Freight DA, but with the 5" backing plate that comes with the Meguiars kit. If you don't get the Meguiars kit, at the very least you need to order a new backing plate for Harbor Freight DA because the one that comes with it is well-known for being really shitty. I prefer using a 5" system as it fits a better into tighter spots and gives you noticeably more correction power over a 6" at very little perceived loss of coverage efficiency because of the smaller size.

Of note: I've only had poor experiences with microfiber pads on single-stage since they seem to clog up so fast, but they've been great on clear coat. Most people won't face this issue, but I figured I'd put it out there.

Pair whatever kit you build/get with the 36-pack of microfibers from Costco and you'll be in business in no time.

I did pick up a 6.5" Lake Country CCS red wax/sealant pad since I like to apply Collinite 845 to everything I care about. I intentionally picked an oversized pad for my backing plate because I'm only using my DA at the minimum speed possible (like 1.5 on the HF DA) to spread a thin layer of wax efficiently. If you crank up the speed by accident or out of curiosity, yes, the 6.5" pad does tend to get totally out of control in a hurry, so don't do that haha.

Don't forget your pad brush, or if you have an air compressor, you can use that to blow out your pads (Youtube it). Some method of cleaning pads is absolutely mandatory and for some reason, this is often overlooked or skipped by many people starting out.

Whatever you get, I like to have at least 2 cutting pads on hand and I'll make a conscious effort to switch halfway through the car, usually hood/driver's side for one and trunk/roof/passenger side for the other. I usually can get through a car with just one polishing pad but it's reassuring to have a backup on hand in case the pad explodes or I'm an idiot and set it down on the ground or something. I'm also kinda anal about cross-contamination of LSPs, so I now have a dedicated Lake Country red CCS pad for each LSP I use.

Finally, I know you're looking for advice on pads, but I ended up getting a bottle of the Meguiars DA Microfiber Polish since I prefer to lay down my own LSPs and the lifespan of the DA Finishing Wax was iffy, especially compared to the Powerlock+ and Collinite 845 combo that I use on cars I actually care about. The DA Finishing Wax is now reserved for my detailing side-hustle (which is currently helping fund putting a turbo in my Miata), since it saves quite a bit of time over separate polishing and waxing.

Looks great man. The last shot reminds me of the one drawback to having a red car, no awesome mirror effect when it's been clay'd, polished and waxed :/

http://i.imgur.com/MDB0u.jpg


Anyways, next polish and wax, after you clay, hit it with the buffer and some of this stuff to get rid of the swirls. The quick detailer spray doesn't do that (unless you have polish off to the side in that 1st pic)

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Finishing-Polish/dp/B003LMJP4Q/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1407072156&sr=8-5&keywords=meguiars+polish

Chemical guys and cobra both make excellent polishing and buffing pads. Use 1 pad per side of the car so you'll use around 4, maybe 5 depending on how much dirt the pad collects.

http://www.amazon.com/Cobra-Cross-GrooveTM-White-Polishing/dp/B001VD8NTA/ref=pd_bxgy_auto_text_y

http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-BUFX_105HEX5-Hex-Logic-Polishing/dp/B0042UE3XY/ref=pd_sbs_auto_5?ie=UTF8&refRID=19HEN7M88JQ3EWP7G1WR

The different brands use different color pads depending on what you're doing (heavy scratch removal, light swirl removal, applying wax, etc) so note that when buying.

Also, I would say after you finish polishing but before applying wax, hit it with one or two coats of an acrylic polymer sealant. It does the same job as wax but is more durable. This is especially helpful if you don't keep the car in a garage or daily drive it because wax typically will only last a few months before it's gone. Acrylic will last much longer. I'm a huge fan of the Menzerna sealant.

http://www.autogeek.net/menzerna-power-lock-sealant.html





The trick to prolonging the protective finish is to spray and wipe down the car after every wash between polishing and waxing. This will help maintain the protective coat.

Blackfire wet diamond is really good stuff for this.

http://www.amazon.com/Blackfire-Polymer-Spray-Sealant-20oz/dp/B005QAI466/ref=sr_1_3?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1407072661&sr=1-3&keywords=blackfire+wet+diamond

That quick detailer spray may work for that but I haven't used the meguiars quick detail in forever. I know it worked really well for me as a claybar lubricant.

Edit: and throw that sponge away!! buy a nice microfiber wash mitt and use a bucket (or 2) with a plastic dirt catcher in the bottom. (pro tip: you can buy nice buckets for super cheap at home depot. They're orange and the dirt catchers fit perfectly!) Google search 2 bucket wash method if you're not familiar with the process.

I would have taken more photos but I didn't set out with the intention of making a post; however, when I saw the results I knew I had to.

Like I said, this mini van only set me back $300. But just because it's a cheap turd doesn't mean you can't take some pride in it and at least put a ribbon on it.

Anyways, I'll add some more details left out of the post.

First I mixed up regular ole dish soap and water and grabbed some 1000 grit wet/dry sand paper, dunked it in the solution and let it soak while I taped off my headlights. I don't think you have to let it soak, but that's what I did. Once I finished taping off the lights, I started wet sanding and just redunked as needed for adequate lubrication.

Now I've read some posts on here about people saying it's easier to see when you're done sanding if you go in one direction for a certain grit and the opposite in another so you can see sanding lines. I didn't do that either. I just sanded it til I felt it was smooth and/or had been doing it for a couple minutes; up, down, left, right, circles. Whatever. It worked out for me.

Repeat exact same procedure for 2000 grit wet/dry sand paper.

Now, if you've never done this before you might start to get nervous, because at this stage your headlights look (somehow) even worse than when you started. Fret not my friend. Patience is a virtue.

Now I have a DA polisher, but these headlights are narrow. So I opted at just purchasing a generic named 3" backing plate, drill adapter and pad combo set off amazon. Some of the reviews said it wasn't the greatest. But that was fine by me. I just wanted them for this headlight. Those reviewers are wrong. I think they were thinking you could do an entire vehicle with these 3" pads. The pads and backing plate were high quality and for that price, even if they weren't I wouldn't have been all that upset. I highly recommend these.

I used the two flat top oranges pads for this project. First I used M105. Polished til it "flashed" then buffed it off with a microfiber towel. Switched to my other orange pad and polished with M205 following the same procedure.

Then I stood in awe of how great they came out. Did a wipe down with isopropyl alcohol, and two coats of collinite 845 that I applied with some cheap microfiber applicators for future uv protection.

Then I went and excitedly rushed my girlfriend outside to see. She was impressed but decidedly less than me.

Also, while I was doing this, a man approached me and asked me how much I'd charge to do his car. I talked with him a bit, and informed him that for the price I would charge to do his one car he'd be better off doing some research, buying his own supplies and just learning a new skill. He thought about it and excitedly told me he already had a drill and that he decided he'd do it. He went on to say he was also going to do not just his car, but also his mom's car and his girlfriend's car. He wrote down everything I said! Haha,I hope his come out as well as mine!

Edit: formatting/spelling

Definitely do some research but with the right cutting and buffing compounds, and either some elbow grease or a dual-action polisher, you can really transform an old paint job. The 3M Perfect-It #39060, 39061, 39062 aren't cheap at around $28 per 16 ounce bottle, but with the trio of bottles you'd have enough to polish 4 Miatas :) There are other competing products that are similar in price.

These and other similar products are increasingly fine compounds, just like sand paper. You start with the #1 which is more coarse. It will gently polish off the faded paint. The #2 is more fine. The #3 is finest and will polish the paint to a shiny finish. Then you polish on a good wax and you're done.

I recommend starting one one area (trunk, fender, etc) so you can compare that to another area when you've done all 3 stages and waxed it.

Ideally you need a good dual-action polisher which will set you back $150 or so, or borrow one. You also need the right foam pads because those come in different styles / abrasions for cutting (old paint removal) to polishing. So the whole project isn't necessarily cheap but it's a whole lot cheaper than a good quality paint job.

You can also go the budget route and use a clay bar and then a rubbing compound and then a polishing compound, any one of a number of good waxes, and elbow grease. You're under $100 at that point.

You can totally DIY paint correct with a dual action polisher.

Here’s a straightforward shopping list and guide. This will knock out most if not all of your swirl marks.

Shopping List:

Machine Polisher - PORTER-CABLE Variable Speed Polisher, 6-Inch (7424XP) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002654I46/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_l7SADbKPP1Q6Q

Backing Pad - Astro 4607 5" PU Velcro Backing Pad https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CH3Z8W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_T7SADbZ187WK1

Bugging Pads - Chemical Guys HEX_3KIT_5 5.5" Buffing Pad Sampler Kit (4 Items), 16. Fluid_Ounces, 4 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J588UNG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_d9SADb8WF470V

Compound - Meguiar's G17220 Ultimate Compound, 20 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06W5HCZ9M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_M9SADb0ADEMZJ

Finishing Polish - Meguiar's M20532 Mirror Glaze Ultra Finishing Polish, 32 Fluid Ounces, 1 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001O7PNXC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_i-SADbWXADMQT

Wax - Your preference

Here’s the guide:

1 – Tool Prep

Set aside the dual-action polisher, backing pad, and foam pads. Remove the included backing plate that’s already attached to the Porter Cable polisher, use the included wrench. Re-attached using the Astro pad, secure tightly.

2 – Wash

Wash your car by hand, preferably using the two-bucket method. Afterward, move the car into your garage or shaded area. You’ll want to be out of direct sunlight, keeping the paint as cool as possible.

3 – Clay Bar

Clay bar the entire car. Make sure to wipe down the finish afterward, keeping it as clean as possible.

4 – Compound Buffing

Grab your machine polisher, the Ultimate Compound, and the orange pad. Attach the pad to the polisher using the velcro backing, make sure it’s centered. Prime the pad by dabbing 8-10 dime-sized amounts across the surface. Start working one section at a time, around 2 x 2 feet. Before you turn on the polisher, press the pad against the paint. Compound polish should be soaked within the pad, along with the paint. Press the pad against the surface, set to speed setting 2-3, and begin spreading the compound around in quick passes. Then, turn it up to 5-6 and let the fun begin. Use overlapping, slow passes. Once you’re done, wide the area clean with a microfiber towel.

5 – Inspection

Check out your results of the first section. Go over the area again if most of the swirl marks aren’t gone. If the swirls are gone, but a light haze is present, don’t worry. The finishing polish will take care of it.

6 – Polish Buffing

Use the M205 Finishing Polish with the white pad. Follow the same steps from before. Prime the pad and rub it against the paint before turning on the polisher. Use a max speed of 3-4 with medium pressure. The Finishing Polish will take care of the rest of the haze and micro scratches. Once you’re finished with the first section, wipe clean.

7 – Inspection

Again, check out the results of the M205 Finishing Polish. It’s doubtful you’ll need more than one application, but double-check all the same. If it’s looking great, move on and finish the rest of your car.

8 – Wax

Your paint is looking great. The swirl marks are gone, leaving a bright clean finish. Apply the wax using the black foam pad. Use very light pressure, letting the pad float along with the paint. You’re just coating your car’s finish, that’s all. Wipe clean with a microfiber towel.

I wanted to try coating my daily driver before fall and winter set in, and to see how good it looks and performs on its own.

Steps taken:

>Wash car with pressure washer, using Griot's car wash. Using IPA as a drying aid, dried car. Clayed car using AutoCare 6" clay pad (knockoff nanoskin). Applied Nanoskin Iron Free to all surfaces except glass and let dwell and pressure washed off. Used TRC towels for everything.

>Touched up a couple of paint chips with Dr. Color Chip after these steps.

>Spot compound using Lake Country MF 3" cutting pad and Menzerna FG400. Polished using Lake Country MF 3" polishing pad and Menzerna SFP3800. Applied Optimum Paint Prep to strip old wax/sealant and polish.

>Using a Lake Country MF 5" cutting pad, applied CarPro Essence to entire car. Let set overnight for max curing and no need for a second wipedown.

>Applied Gtechniq CSQ, Opti-Bond diluted tire dressing, AngelWax Bilberry Wheel Wax.

Total Time: 8 hours

I didn't take a ton of pics of the finer scratches or swirls, but the paint was in pretty good shape overall before, very light marring from washes and clay. They were easily taken care of with Essence since it hides some of them and removes others. I also don't have after pics of water on the car due to cure time. It is supposed to rain in a few days and I want to give the car the max time I can for it to cure properly.

Links above are where I bought the products, except for GG car soap, which is OOS at DI.

Overall, a long process that should produce lasting results. I plan to top with Geyon Wetcoat since it is cheaper and easier to use than EXO (although they aren't the same thing at all).

Sure. Since it's just scrap, you don't have to do it every time, but on metal that has any signs of contamination, its best for the weld to remove that. Typical way is to angle grind the weld area. Not the best way mind you but its quick and easy and makes the weld look good.

Wire cleaner is a little hard to explain. I believe its a chemically treated wad of cotton. The idea is that sometimes there gets to be a little bit of sludge and muck on the wire, especially if it was taken out of the box and not put immediately in the feeder, or if it is a low quality wire. They're cheap and sold at weld shops regularly.

Edit: these things. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008RA5D5C?pc_redir=1409979630&robot_redir=1 I worked at airgas for a while and we sold these a lot.


Another edit: like I mentioned, since its just scrap, its not important to clean the base metal or wire. If you're interested in that though, ask your teacher if you can use a grinder to clean the base metal. Or even buy a bag of the wire cleaners yourself. Grinding disks aren't cheap or safe though, so make sure you ask first.

ALBUM (also at end of post)

I recently purchased a Rupes LHR15 MkII bundle from Detailers Domain during their Father's Day sale and I've been afraid to use it. But I didn't want my ~$400 purchase just sitting there... so I went and bought a Hex Logic Waxing Pad and the Nanoskin Autoscrub for DAs. Yesterday, I did a wash, clay and wax on my personal car and today I did the same for my girlfriend's car. I haven't started polishing yet because I'm still hesitant and have some questions. I've watched Junkman's video series on polishing and I've read the written guide here in the Wiki, but they don't go over specifics (e.g. how do you polish the A pillars, around badges, lower front bumpers [i.e. around and inside the Miata's 'smile']).

I messed up on my own car because the clear coat is failing and I underestimated the Nanoskin. I've clayed with regular clay and the small nanoskin sponge and nothing happened to my car. However, when I went over the same area with the Rupes w/ Nanoskin, it went dark grey. At first, I thought it was just super dirty but I stopped. After inspecting.. it looks like I may have ripped off loose clear coat haha.... I wish I had someone that I can talk to in person and ask questions on the fly as I work.

 

What surprised me the most was how loud the vibration sound is and it makes me question whether it is normal. Using the Nanoskin, it almost sounds like a deep vibrating sound and sometimes a slapping sound. Is that normal? I have watched youtube videos and it's hard to distinguish if the sound I hear is the same in the video.

 

Also, do you guys clean your backing plates? The Rupes manual says that the machine is lubricated enough for lifetime use, but the backing plate has turned black/dirty from the shroud. If I clean this backing plate, would I need more lubricant? Should I do the washer mod to this LHR15 MkII?

 

Do you guys have any recommendations for which pads to use with the Rupes? I read some posts saying that the Rupes is too aggressive for the Hex Logic pads, but I decided to try it out anyway. Those posts were right, at least in my experience. I've only used the waxing pad twice and it's starting to rip (please see the album at the end of the post). I was thinking of going for Lake Country Pads

 

I recently watched AMMO's video on how to wash pads, and I've applied that to my own waxing pad and Nanoskin pad (water in sink + hand scrub, put back on DA and spin at highest speed to get water out, rub against hand + towel while running it on polisher). How do you guys wash your pads?

 

Here's an album of everything mentioned above.

it's going to provide a deeper cleaning to your paint. it is a mild abrasive but is mostly used to pull crap out of the paint regularly or before polishing/compounding.


Typically if it feels smother, it looks shinier. I think it is popular because it is very easy to do and doesn't require any equipment. If you are looking for ultimate in shine a very mild polish (also abrasive) is awesome.

This system is awesome but a car with nice paint doesn't need correction so just the last stage is where the magic happens.

Avoid those cheap buffers and get yourself a Dual Action Polisher from a reputable brand. DA polishers are much safer on your car's clear coat and are user-friendly.

Griot's Garage 6" orbital polisher is a popular choice and will last forever.

Porter Cable makes a good polisher although it's not as powerful as Griot's and heavier.

MaxShine Shinemaster M8S is a great budget choice. I personally use this one and love it.

after a little more research people are saying car polish is ok, still do a test spot and i still recommend meguiar's ultimate polish, and i just remembered they make microfiber hand buffers like this https://www.amazon.com/Microfiber-Buffing-Polishing-Buffer-Polisher/dp/B01FOQJNHA use one side to polish and the other to wipe clean, and then wax with a spray wax such as meguiar's quick wax, and then wipe with a microfiber towel (or a corner of that buffing wheel you kept clean) and just a heads up scratches are gonna happen, so don't get too caught up in it and remember to have fun

Another option if this is scary to try, doing the prep and putting an ad in craigslist for a shooter. Asking car club members if they have anyone that can spray could help too. The labor is in the prep, spraying really doesn't take any time, most of it waiting in between coats. You can rent a compressor, the vader guns at northern were actually not bad for junk. A 1.4 tip for paint, larger for primer, sealer can go through the 1.4. If you are worried about finger sanding, this pad is excellent, much better than 3M's. I have thousands of dollars in tools, dozens of sanders, I always hand wet sand before paint. I have a bunch of those pads and use them even though I know how to sand.

Most of all, ask! Knowing how is most of the battle. Also, do not trust paint store people, they generally have no clue how to use the stuff they sell, or even know what works best. There is a paint rep for each brand in your area, but most will not waste time with you, even though they are paid to. Stay away from dupont stuff, it's junk, I wouldn't paint a dog house with it. Basf is good stuff, but costly, the limco line is the low line and still expensive. We used diamont and glasurit, we kicked ppg out when they fired out friends, it still remains my favorite paint. We kicked dupont out as soon as we took over. As a last resort, auto parts stores have lacquer Dupli-Color on the shelves, it's very easy to spray, takes a lot of coats to build a film, and it's not durable at all.

If this is still scary and expensive, you can polish what you got. With care and the right polishes you can bring old paint back nicely, but you got to know what to do and the steps to do it in. One of our shops was such a shit hole we completely detailed every car to help build our reputation. Most of these cars hadn't looked that good since they left the lot.

I like Flitz polish. It works great for so much.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001447VB2/

Also https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000H6MNRU and/or https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000TV6DLU

Combine with a drill and you should be able to get that sparkling.

However, another potential option would be the tried and true when something needs some tough love: http://brillo.com/products-2014.asp

I bought this: https://www.amazon.com/Presa-Turbine-Polisher-Polishing-Chenille/dp/B01DCHA3DG/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1498066449&sr=8-9

It was half priced compared to any of the more known brands. I can't compare it to the others, but the reviews about it are what I've experienced. I've corrected two cars using it and so far it has held up. Vibrates a lot at times though but it might be my technique doing something negative to the pads/machine. I personally wouldn't bother trying to paint correct by hand, better to save up and get any kind of a DA. Have you considered finding a DA used on Craigslist or whatever you have in Germany?
*edit: This looks like the German equivalent to the machine above https://www.amazon.de/Dino-640200-Action-Exzenter-Poliermaschine/dp/B01CLG7HHY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498066906&sr=8-1

Can you order off of amazon?

I would recommend using Griot's Garage Glass Polish.

I used this along with a glass polishing pad on my DA and quickly cleaned an entire window that was absolutely covered with overspray from a single stage paint job. Since you don't have a DA I would recommend a handheld pad such as a CG Polishing Pad.

However before trying the polish you might try using glass clay. It works pretty well - it should remove the gunk/spots but may not remove tough water spots. If you do use the clay I use Meguiar's or Stoner glass cleaner as lubrication.

Hope some of this will help!

Also on a side note - the pad you used probably didn't do much, if any, damage to the windshield, automotive glass is pretty tough stuff.

I just got this guy and he's workin' great!

​

https://www.amazon.com/ShineMaster-Maxshine-Blue-Action-Polisher/dp/B07MZMWTKX/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_1?crid=1MQL54Z54NDP3&keywords=shinemaster+m8s&qid=1554496608&s=gateway&sprefix=shinemaster+%2Caps%2C170&sr=8-1-fkmrnull

I have an idea. You could use some 3M dual lock to make the parts modular and look a little more elegant. Dual lock is kinda like velcro except the pieces snap on and off of each other instead of grabbing on and ripping off.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B014TF6LRC/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1498414754&sr=8-7&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=3m+dual+lock&dpPl=1&dpID=41PpwXymhwL&ref=plSrch

Not sure if Chinese, but i got this cheap one and it works well. A little noisy though.

Edit: i see you've mentioned it. Let me know if you have any specific questions or would like pictures of any parts or anything about it.

$4.55 on amazon, I actually bought it recently

POTOLON EZ Pass Mounting Kit -... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014TF6LRC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Ooo actually its gone down in price. Ideally, you’ve got a rubbing compound, polishing compound, and an ultra machine polish.

The M8 is different from the M8s, which is the one too which I referred.

Maybe others have had luck with them but they didn't work for me. I don't think my hands can move fast enough to remove swirls.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BUFWL0Q/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1. That's what I used

The Maxshine M8S is also a solid entry level polisher, and you get color options https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MZMWTKX/

https://www.amazon.com/Presa-Turbine-Polisher-Polishing-Chenille/dp/B01DCHA3DG

review on this polisher for first time user?=????

If you're looking for a budget polisher you could try one of these

ShineMaster Maxshine M8S Blue Dual Action/DA Polisher: 900W, Orbit Diameter Size: 8mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MZMWTKX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Xj2WCbJ8KK4R3

I used what I call “ezpass velcro”.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014TF6LRC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LYiYCbGY04457

I attached mine to the ceiling (on the eyesight housing), in front of the map lights)

Is this what you purchased? How many did you get? What polishes did you use?

no need to reinvent the wheel

They cost about [$1.26](Weld-Aid Lube-Matic Wire Kleener Pad, Red (Pack of 6) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008RA5D5C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_MmpFybSRQMJH4)