Reddit mentions: The best camera tripods & monopods

Here’s a guide I give to people not necessarily about posting, but about taking photos. It does however include details on anonymity and such:
——————————
Photo Tips for Mobile Phones

• Ensure good lighting - if you don't have other gear and a phone is all you have, keep the lights up in the room and use natural light where possible. This will prevent photos from being underexposed and/or grainy and gritty. You can even strategically use some lamps or smaller lights closer to your body while keeping the room lights down.
  
• Use the phone's rear camera at all times. Though it may seem convenient to use the front facing camera so you can see the shot you're taking, it's not as high quality a camera as the rear camera.
  
• Crop photos, don't zoom to take them. Digital zooming on a mobile phone degrades the photo quality. You're better off cropping a photo you've taken that wasn't zoomed when you took it.
  
• Use a tripod of some kind. The Gorrilapod is a great option since it can stand freely on its own or be wrapped around something (headboard, chair beside bed or couch, ceiling fan for a birds-eye view, etc). JOBY GripTight GorillaPod Stand - Flexible Universal Smartphone Stand for Small Smartphones including iPhone 6, iPhone 7 and iPhone 8 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009GHYMB6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1J8Xzb16X8FCC
  
• Use a remote control to take photos, like this: CamKix Wireless Camera Shutter Remote Control for Smartphones – Create Amazing Photos and Selfies (Blue) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0113W5ZOO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ZK8Xzb1N6CVZD This allows you to position the camera, and be at a distance from it, and freely press the shutter release button on the remote to take photos. In conjunction with a 3 or 10 second timer, this gives you plenty of time to trigger the photo, conceal the remote, and pose for your photo.
  
• Use focus lock when you're going to be at a distance from the camera. A great way to do this is to place an object on a bed (or wherever you are taking photos), such as a pillow, that will be approximately where your body will be. Think of the pillow as a torso - will you be focusing primarily on your lower torso (ex: below belly button) or upper torso (ex: chest)? Focus lock on those approximate areas, or somewhere in between to ensure consistent focusing. Lock focus on this, then get in position and fire away with the remote.
  
• When taking fully nude photos, remove underwear about 45 minutes to an hour before you take photos. This helps prevent panty lines, and bra strap lines from being visible on your skin.
  
• Photo Editing Apps: Don't overuse them, but sometimes it's fun to explore editing and consider making black and white photos out of color photos. VSCO Cam is one of the leading apps out there, with film simulation presets to quickly set a certain mood and tone for photos.
  
  Photo Inspiration
  
• Subtlety tends to keep people wanting more. People enjoy what they can imagine; it's a great build up to full reveals or more detailed / graphic photos. Photo albums that run from clothed to unclothed to posing to touching always excite people.
  
• Explore sites with great nude photography, like www.kindgirls.com, for example, for inspiration on poses, outfits, etc. It's fun to find a photo gallery you like and take a shot at emulating each of the photos.
  
  Safety and Privacy
  
• Always be cautious and careful of what you post that reveals personally identifiable details, face photos, etc. Some of the bigger subs warn about "what goes on the Internet stays on the Internet." Many people don't foresee the risk in revealing themselves to a degree that they can be identified.
  
• If you’re worried about being discovered and identified in real life, NEVER EVER EVER post your face or any identifiable physical characteristics. This includes objects in your residence, blankets people might recognize, art, furniture, etc. Try to keep that stuff as generic as possible. I’d even go as far as having a blanket and pillow you use in photos that you don’t use in anything else.
  
• Learn how to remove EXIF data from photos so there are no identifying details, such as location, lingering in the photos. On the iPhone, I suggest the app called “Investigator” to clear EXIF data.

Congratulations on the grant!

Great list, but with a £5000 budget, you might want to think about graduating from compromise still/video cameras to a Super 35, interchangeable lens camcorder.

And you don't have to blow your budget on an URSA Mini 4.6K to do it.

For [£2940.52, you can get a JVC GY-LS300 4K/UHD/2K/1080p Super 35 camcorder] (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-53481-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575034783&toolid=10001&campid=5337235943&customid=&icep_item=301510090765&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229508&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg) with built-in XLRs, a built-in ND filter, dual card slots, a top handle, power zoom capability, built-in wi-fi and live streaming to the web.

With the new v2.0 firmware update, it records to 4096x2160 Digital Cinema Initiative (DCI) 4K, as well as 3840x2160 Ultra High Definition, 2048x1080 DCI 2K and 1920x1080p HD.

It also has a flat LOG profile, which increases its dynamic range

This is an 8-bit camera (like the 5D Mark III), but it has 4:2:2 color subsampling and will stand up to grading pretty well.

Here's a UHD file shot with cine gamma (before the J LOG release):

• [“Honmonji Temple” in GY-LS300 by moribun] (https://vimeo.com/139214323) (downloadable if you're a Vimeo Plus or Pro member [if you're not, you can sign up [here] (http://vimeo.com/pro/new?utm_source=affiliate&utm_medium=prosubscribe-cj-vimeo-bizlander-300x250-20130424&utm_campaign=7696)])
  
  Here's a nice J-LOG piece from Dan Chung at newssshooter.com:
  
  
• [JVC GY-LS300 4K J-Log Vision] (https://vimeo.com/138523082) (not downloadable)
  
  And here's a very quick J-LOG camera shelf test at 4096x2160 Cinema 4K resolution from Gert Tetzner at avmediafactory:
  
  
• [JVC GY-LS300 Firmware 2.0 J-log ungraded] (https://vimeo.com/140984524) (downloadable for Vimeo Plus and Pro)
  
  A few more examples of what this camera can do:
  
  
• [GY-LS300 UHD 4K w/ Canon 70-200 and 85mm lenses] (https://youtu.be/QYCdxMrvAoA)
  
  
• [EVS’s test footage for the JVC GY-LS300 4K super 35 Cinema camera] (https://youtu.be/S47dceBcuJI)
  
  ...and 1080p on Vimeo:
  
  
• [JVC GY-LS300 Camera Test] (http://vimeo.com/122736335)
  
  
• [Breathing in New Life] (http://vimeo.com/120445118)
  
  A very nice overview from Zacuto:
  
  
• [First Look at JVC's GY-LS300] (http://vimeo.com/121192570)
  
  A review from Videomaker:
  
  
• [JVC GY-LS300 - Hands On Review] (https://youtu.be/imHg6sVKztE)
  
  And a couple of useful reviews from Rick Young's Movie Machine:
  
  
• [One of a kind - shooting with the JVC GY-LS300] (http://vimeo.com/133929950)
  
  
• [Shooting with the JVC GY-LS300 & Micro Four Thirds Lenses] (http://vimeo.com/136918105)
  
  I have shot with this camera - it is an easy-to-use, very high quality Super 35mm camcorder and a very good value for your money.
  
  You might also want to consider saving a couple of hundred quid with a 27 lb. capacity [£102.03 Ravelli AVTP Professional 75mm bowl tripod] (http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00139W0XM/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1634&creative=19450&creativeASIN=B00139W0XM&linkCode=as2&tag=hybrcamerevo-21) instead of an 11 lb. capacity Manfrotto head.
  
  I have had the Ravelli for over 3 years - the head has two handles and a fluid level - and is very smooth. Plus, the sticks are solid and very tough. Another good value for your money.
  
  [Here] (https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipMFTZRKGROL4NFLSKfeZG8hkokRfgYUjO0StXVpgTIJ-1CUn7PAu1q1jdrrW7mhnQ/photo/AF1QipPGEx_mZeT1z2M9Y_lauMR-ofLh0NzPm-oKP0Rq?key=dmplaWhzaFd2TnpvalBGdHFMamZYN3FmUTAweExR) is a picture of the LS300 on my Ravelli. A very nice combination and highly recommended.
  
  With a pro camcorder, you won't need the external recorder or the shoe shock mount.
  
  Hope this is helpful, good luck with your freelance videography business and best of the holidays!

I recently went on a once in a lifetime trip to France for two weeks, so hopefully I can provide some helpful advice/insight.

First, and I cannot stress this enough, have enough memory! I'd recommend bringing at least 16GB, if not more.
I brought two 8GB cards to France and transfered them to my computer each night. I never used the second card, however, if I wouldn't have had the luxury of transferring to a laptop each night, I would have quickly exceeded this.
If you are able to bring a computer or other means by which to back up your photos, I'd STRONGLY recommend it. It's great peace of mind to not have to worry about losing pictures or running out of room.

Second, DO NOT use the Auto mode, that just makes your DSLR a big point and shoot. A lot of people recommend using M(anual), but it can be a little overwhelming if you're not used to your camera. The Av (Aperture Priority) mode is great because it allows you to select the aperture value you want (which will effect what's in focus and Depth of Field) while automatically determining the rest. Constipated_Help gave you some very sound advice on exposure, so follow that if you're able.

Third, make sure you have the right accessories. A tripod would be great for landscape shots. The Dolica Proline is a great value at 40$. At least one extra battery would be good to have, especially if you will not be able to recharge during the trip. An Opteka t2i battery can be had for 12$, and works with your Canon charger.

If you can swing it, a new lens would be good to have since the lens is the determining factor of image quality. If you like to "zoom" and isolate subjects, you'll want a telephoto. The Canon 55-250 IS is a great deal at 240$. If you like wide angle, you'll need an ultra wide. These will typically run above 400$. I have a Tokina 11-16 and I am very pleased. As others have recommended, the Canon 50 1.8 is an incredible deal at 100$ and provides creative options with it's wide aperture.
A nice bag is also a good thing to have. You can buy either a messenger style, a holster or a backpack. Filters would also be nice, but they're not a necessity.

I hope this can help. If you have any questions, feel free to ask. I'd be glad to (try to) help! :)

Leagues better than my first video, nice job! I like the detail and decent camera work, especially for a first video.

I like the way you write down the locations of the parts of the phone on that paper, odd little nice thing.

Also, I really like your intro animation (especially for a first video). Where did it come from? Did you make it?

Few suggestions from an amateur who's done it for 4 ish years. This also depends on how serious you want to be as some of these tips require buying stuff. Just things I wish I could have had people tell me when I was getting started.

1. Audio needs work. You and I use identical Mics, even the color! (Blue Yeti FTW!) But, the echo in this is pretty bad for you, audio makes a HUGE impact on how your viewers see your quality. Get a mic stand, like these. The Blue Yeti pro can get some fantastic audio, set it to Cardiod, find which side is recording, and have it in front of you when you speak. For amateurs, viewers don't generally mind seeing it in front of you.
   
2. There are times when you sound rehearsed. This comes with time and practice, but relax and have fun! If making these is for you like it is to me, it really is fun.
   
3. Maybe consider some light background music if that's your style. It's not for everyone, but just a recommendation, always try to use royalty free music and give credit in your description so you don't get hit with a bullshit copyright claim (even though the music is royalty free, sometimes they're weird). What editing software do you use?
   
4. Get a fluid head tripod (this could depend on the type of camera you use). I personally use [this one]
   (https://www.amazon.com/Ravelli-AVTP-Professional-Camera-Tripod/dp/B00139W0XM/ref=sr_1_6?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1493901832&sr=1-6&keywords=fluid+head+tripod). These make the difference between panning camera shots that jump and smooth panning shots. This really steps up your production value and is a small change that makes a big difference.
   
5. Try to get more consistent lighting, sort of camera dependent just depending on how good the camera your using is (what is it?) but not entirely. I've used this set for two years, I wouldn't recommend it for video though. I learned the hard way. This is better for photography. Something like this (this style, not necessarily this particualr one as I've never used it).There are some shots where the lighting looks red, looks dull, looks dark, looks bright, etc. This will come with time, learning, and experience and as you develop a more skilled eye for a "good shot". I won't pretend I'm a pro, but I've learned a thing or two. Some cameras offer a video mode for different lighting (think a filter for a picture, similar concept) that could make a world of a difference here!
   
6. Careful with where you place your lights. Unless you deal with higher end cameras and know what you're doing, they tend to mess up your contrast, color profile and brightness pretty hard. Unless having a light source (like a lightbulb or something, RGB or accent lights and stuff are fine) gives you the effect you want in the scene, either cover it with your body or an object, or keep it out of frame.
   
   Overall, really a good video for your first try. I'm not trying to criticize with my above comments, just trying to help you with stuff I wish I knew a few years back! A lot will come with experience. You'll also learn it's a labor of love with a lot of work and very little reward (Read : little/no pay) for a LONG time, unless you get crazy lucky and go viral.
   
   Feel free to shoot me any questions you have! I'm happy to help a brother out. Maybe we could even collab sometime, who knows :).

Hard to tell much from the pictures. Miniatures photophraphy is tricky. Here is an awesome tutorial on how to do it to a level of near perfection. But I have some tips from when I started out with just a point-and-shoot camera that might be useful:

Lighting - Someone already mentioned to disable the flash. That's absolutely the right thing to do unless you have a little photo studio setup with seperate flashes setup to key off the camera. Since 99% of the people here don't, what you should use are just some regular lamps. Two lamps slightly above your subject, offset to the left and right, and positioned far enough away to minimize shadows is a great setup. Make sure that they have the same type of bulb that gives off the same color. You can certainly get by with just one light, sometimes even just a room light, but avoid the flash.

Background - Clear backgrounds are best, as it allows the viewers to really just focus on the miniature(s). I used a few clean sheets of printer paper, curving the background sheet so it reduced shadows. The white paper gives the added benefit of "bouncing" light on the model, lighting up the model and reducing shadows.

Camera mode and focusing - Many people use macro mode on their point-and-shoot cameras, but this doesn't always work. Typically this mode is noted by an icon of a flower (for some reason a tulip). Macro mode typically changes a few automatic settings, each camera tends to be slightly different. Play around with this mode and others on your camera to see which one focuses better. Remember that getting close to your mini doesn't make it easier for your camera to focus. The camera has an minimum range on focusing, so you need to find the sweet spot. Cropping a well focused picture is better than trying to fill the frame with out-of-focus subjects.

Tripod - Cheap tripods are awesome for miniatures photography. Even if you're just getting a small desk tripod, a gorillapod, a large sized tripod, or even a phone tripod it doesn't need to be expensive. Expensive tripods are built to be tough for travel, you're likely not doing that, you just need to keep the camera stable and off the floor. You can certainly even get by without a tripod at all if you just stack a few books up or whatever. Really what you need is a way to take a picture with your hands off the camera. Typically all cameras, even phone cameras have a timed shot. Set the timer for the lowest setting, typically 2 seconds. After setting up your shot, and pressing the shutter, you can take your hands off the camera and make sure it doesn't shake or screw up the focus.

Color or White Balance - This can be a bit tricky. Cameras try to automatically adjust to get optimal color from a photo, but sometimes, when lighting or background or subject matter is dominant in color, the pictures end up looking weird. People sometimes describe this as the photo looking too cool/cold (blue hues) or too warm/hot (red hues) and that's usually a sign that the white balance is dorked up. When you take a picture as I recommended with a white sheet of paper as the background, you might see this blue or red hue shift that I'm talking about. You can use a number of free photography editors (like Pixlr) to help you with adjusting this after you've taken the picture. Essentially you're trying to adjust the picture to return white to being white. Trick here is that "white" paper is rarely "pure white" so this complicates matters. Fancier cameras (DSLRs typically) have settings to help adjust and take pictures that are properly balanced, sometimes requiring the photographer to have a reference card to show the camera what white, grey, or black should look like in a photo. Refer to the tutorial I linked at the top of this post for more information on how to achieve this balance using those cards and a DSLR.

That's all I have for photography. Your models look pretty good from what I can see, my one thing... ONE thing would be to drill your weapon barrels, or at the very least paint a little black dot there. Sorry, it's a personal hang-up. As I am a fellow Ork player, I might be able to give you more advice should you need it. Let me know. Here are some of my old blog posts talking about my Orks.

I wrote this guide for better nude and erotic mobile photography a couple years ago, and even though you’re talking about a DSLR camera, many of the tips are more than applicable. Enjoy, and have fun!

—-

Photo Tips for Mobile Phones

• Ensure good lighting - if you don't have other gear and a phone is all you have, keep the lights up in the room and use natural light where possible. This will prevent photos from being underexposed and/or grainy and gritty. You can even strategically use some lamps or smaller lights closer to your body while keeping the room lights down.
  
• Use the phone's rear camera at all times. Though it may seem convenient to use the front facing camera so you can see the shot you're taking, it's not as high quality a camera as the rear camera.
  
• Crop photos, don't zoom to take them. Digital zooming on a mobile phone degrades the photo quality. You're better off cropping a photo you've taken that wasn't zoomed when you took it.
  
• Use a tripod of some kind. The Gorrilapod is a great option since it can stand freely on its own or be wrapped around something (headboard, chair beside bed or couch, ceiling fan for a birds-eye view, etc). JOBY GripTight GorillaPod Stand - Flexible Universal Smartphone Stand for Small Smartphones including iPhone 6, iPhone 7 and iPhone 8 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009GHYMB6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1J8Xzb16X8FCC
  
• Use a remote control to take photos, like this: CamKix Wireless Camera Shutter Remote Control for Smartphones – Create Amazing Photos and Selfies (Blue) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0113W5ZOO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ZK8Xzb1N6CVZD This allows you to position the camera, and be at a distance from it, and freely press the shutter release button on the remote to take photos. In conjunction with a 3 or 10 second timer, this gives you plenty of time to trigger the photo, conceal the remote, and pose for your photo.
  
• Use focus lock when you're going to be at a distance from the camera. A great way to do this is to place an object on a bed (or wherever you are taking photos), such as a pillow, that will be approximately where your body will be. Think of the pillow as a torso - will you be focusing primarily on your lower torso (ex: below belly button) or upper torso (ex: chest)? Focus lock on those approximate areas, or somewhere in between to ensure consistent focusing. Lock focus on this, then get in position and fire away with the remote.
  
• When taking fully nude photos, remove underwear about 45 minutes to an hour before you take photos. This helps prevent panty lines, and bra strap lines from being visible on your skin.
  
• Photo Editing Apps: Don't overuse them, but sometimes it's fun to explore editing and consider making black and white photos out of color photos. VSCO Cam is one of the leading apps out there, with film simulation presets to quickly set a certain mood and tone for photos.
  
  Photo Inspiration
  
• Subtlety tends to keep people wanting more. People enjoy what they can imagine; it's a great build up to full reveals or more detailed / graphic photos. Photo albums that run from clothed to unclothed to posing to touching always excite people.
  
• Explore sites with great nude photography, like www.kindgirls.com, for example, for inspiration on poses, outfits, etc. It's fun to find a photo gallery you like and take a shot at emulating each of the photos.
  
  Safety
  
• Always be cautious and careful of what you post that reveals personally identifiable details, face photos, etc. Some of the bigger subs warn about "what goes on the Internet stays on the Internet." Many people don't foresee the risk in revealing themselves to a degree that they can be identified.
  
• Learn how to remove EXIF data from photos so there are no identifying details, such as location, lingering in the photos. On the iPhone, I suggest the app called “Investigator” to clear EXIF data.

As far as lenses go, I'm not sure what you'll be shooting (portraits? movies? landscape?) but on my student budget I amassed the following as add-on to my T1i:

Canon 50mm f/1.8 (nifty fifty)
which is the cheap go-to lens for portraits / low light photography. ~$100. Here's a great lens review

Sigma 10-20mm f/4-5.6
for landscape. I just got this, and is great fun! Sigma's is much cheaper than canon's 10-22mm but similar (ish?) in quality. It's a pretty slow lens, but ok since it's so wide. ~$350

Canon 70-200mm f/4L
for wildlife / portraits. It's the cheapest L lens, and it really makes it more fun to take pictures. Worth it! ~$400. Note that of the 70-200mm lens can have f/4 or f/2.8, and IS or non-IS. "upgrading" a feature will make it cost 2x more (f/2.8 non IS ~ $1k, f/2.8 IS ~ $2k) but unless you do concert photography / low light stuff with this lens, you'll be ok with f/4 non-IS.

Canon 18-55mm (kit lens)
all around good lens to carry around. IS helps, and pretty straight forward.

Be sure to check out a hot-shoe flash, which is probably the best investment for indoor (bounced flash) pics. I have the 430EX II ~$200.

Tripod I have this which has been great.

Good luck and enjoy your trip!

I think others have said it, but your best bet is to forget about the camera and start with what you have. Even cheap phones work well enough for youtube as long as you can pump enough light into them. You are better off concentrating on the rest of your kit first.

Audio is the most important part of your video. Nothing will make someone skip your videos faster than having terrible audio quality, especially if you are wanting to do ASMR and mukbangs. If you are going to blow your budget somewhere I recommend going big on your audio. For starter mics I recommend the Audio-Technica AT875R. It is a killer mic and the best bang for the buck mic I have found so far. You will need a recorder, but to save money starting out you can record directly to your computer using a cheap phantom to usb adapter and Audacity.

https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-AT875R-Gradient-Condenser-Microphone/dp/B000BQ79W0/

https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-1-Channel-Microphone-Condenser-Recording/dp/B076WF7DSP/

The other thing you will need starting out is light. Your footage is going to look terrible if you just record with available light inside. There are alot of cheap led lights out there but for the most bang for the buck I recommend going the DIY route. A pack of high cri led bulbs is cheap and will give you more light than any similarly priced panel will. You will need a trip to a home improvement store for a fixture and extension cord. I think FilmRiot has a tutorial on this setup, and you can even build a dimmer into the cord for about $10 more. Then you can diffuse the light through a frosted shower curtain for great soft light.

https://www.amazon.com/TORCHSTAR-Dimmable-Equivalent-1600lm-Daylight/dp/B07JMP9K7W/

https://www.amazon.com/Nuvo-SF77-193-Polished-24-Inch/dp/B01F4DSYDM/

https://www.amazon.com/Woods-General-Purpose-Extension-Black/dp/B000KKJUHE/

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Dimmer-Rotate-Almond-18020/dp/B002DNG3EE/

https://www.amazon.com/Hubbell-5320-2-Weatherproof-inches-Bronze/dp/B000BW3EK0/

The last thing you will need is a tripod for your phone. You aren't shooting anything that really needs or would benefit too much from alot of movement, so a gimbal or steadicam is just overkill and unnecessary. There are a million tripods out there, but for the sake of consistency I will link to one I found.

https://www.amazon.com/Acuvar-Aluminum-Universal-Smartphone-Smartphones/dp/B00SHJPMEU/

So there's the kit I would put together if I was starting out again. It will give you a great foundation to grow from and when the budget appears for a better camera it will still help you out (I still use my DIY lights in my home studio even now that I have a trunk full of much better lights). I'm not sure what you have lying around to make this cheaper, but by my rough maths you are looking at about $350 USD for everything on my list, and you could probably hunt around and get it even cheaper.

​

As to editors, I recommend ponying up the bucks for Adobe. It's a little expensive, but it's better to spend a little now rather than spend the time learning a cheap or free NLE and then having to relearn Adobe down the road if you decide to up your game. If you absolutely don't have the budget both Hitfilm's and Davinci have a free version that is pretty solid.

​

edit: forgot to mention software.

That was an excellent and thoughtful gift, kudos to you. Aside from the lenses, there are a few other things that help a lot when starting out in photography (I'm just figuring this out as I'm pretty new):

• A tripod can help if he wants to take low-light pictures and set up really long shutter times (it basically makes it so that no shaking messes up his pictures) and it can help to take pictures of you guys. I'm planning on bringing one for a trip with my girlfriend and I so we can take cool pictures where there may not be other people to help out.
  
  
• A good bag or backpack would be great, increasingly so as the amount of gear that he has goes up. It's tough to carry around all that crap, and these bags make it pretty easy to fit.
  
  
• a strap, pretty self explanatory. carrying around a DSLR in one hand sucks.
  
  
• Extra memory cards and possibly an external hard drive are nice because RAW camera files take up a toooon of storage and having backups is always nice in the case that a really important picture gets corrupted.
  
  As for lenses:
  
  Nikon 35mm prime (basically allows him to take pretty nice, wide open landscape pictures at great quality)
  
  50mm prime widely regarded as the best starting lens (another no zoom lens that is an all-around all-star that is pretty versatile. good for portraits, landscapes, etc)

ok, your profile text is pretty good! there's stuff there for ladies to ask you about and you seem to have a good sense of humor.

>I could do it outside if I can figure out a decent location for it, I suppose, (i.e. I need to be able to actually set my camera up somewhere other than on the ground, plus a decent background.) but I thought the studio-type lighting was still pretty good. shrug Still better than typical soft white indoor lighting giving off that yellowish tinge.

Outside really is best. I've taken a few photos of myself using a tripod out in my yard/driveway. Just think of something that naturally makes you laugh and click away. Natural light + genuine smiles are really good for photos.

>As for the others, overall, guess I'm trying too hard to actually showcase what I'm like as a person and not hard enough on simply following rules 1 and 2 of OLD amirite?

but rules 1 and 2 are pretty flexible, we all find different things attractive, and in-person chemistry is often very different from online perceptions.

you might also try Hinge, if that's active in your area.

Well, If filmmaking and video is your goal with these cameras I wouldn't recommend either.

If you're just starting and serious about video production here's a pretty effective starter kit that's just a tad over your $400 budget.

[Camera: Canon Vixia HF R400] (http://www.amazon.com/Canon-VIXIA-R400-Advanced-Camcorder/dp/B00AWZFJ22/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395594961&sr=8-1&keywords=canon+vixia+hf+r400)
This is a decent starter camera. It's got a decent range of focal lengths, optical stabilization, microphone input, progressive frame-rates and most of all designed with video in mind. You'll need a SD Card

I noticed the cameras you picked resembles DSLRs but keep in mind that these in particular are not and with fixed lenses which defeats the purpose of having DSLR for video. Trust me, learn how to be effective with a camcorder first! Then, when your skill requires more artistic control you can upgrade.

Audio:
[Microphone:] (http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATR-6550-Condenser-Shotgun-Microphone/dp/B002GYPS3M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395595673&sr=8-1&keywords=shotgun+microphone)
Having clean audio is probably the most important part filmmaking! The key is to get the mic as close to your subject as possible and away from your camera. You'll need a cable. If you need to mount it to your camera use this [bracket.] (http://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Photography-Bracket-Standard-Mounts/dp/B005Z4ROIW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395595189&sr=8-1&keywords=flash+bracket) This bracket will also help keep the camera stabilized when you go handheld.

Keep in mind this won't deliver perfect audio but it will be a MASSIVE improvement to the on board microphone and learning how to record with decent audio in mind is your first step into becoming a pro.

[Lighting:] (http://www.amazon.com/Bayco-SL-300-Clamp-Aluminum-Reflector/dp/B007RKKEHA/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1395595354&sr=8-17&keywords=can+lights)
Lighting is EXTREMELY important. A couple of these can lights will not only help with your image quality but put in you in the right direction for learning how to properly light your scene. You could start with daylight equivalent CFL bulbs.

[Tripod:] (http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-60-Inch-Lightweight-Tripod-Bag/dp/B005KP473Q/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1395595413&sr=8-3&keywords=tripod)
You NEED a tripod. This one is cheap and cheerful. Looping the ends of a couple rubber brands around the pan handle and the other end around your finger will help deliver some smoother pans!

Total: $425/£258

Some things to keep in mind:

• These are far from pro tools but if all used in conjuncture you can deliver a much more effective production than just merely using a camera on a tripod.
  
  
• Build a crew of friends. Although you can "one man band" it I don't recommend it because one of coolest things about film is that it's almost always a group effort towards an artistic goal!
  
  
• Most importantly, the equipment are just tools. They don't tell the story; you do! Your film/video is only as powerful as the story you want to tell!
  
  Best of luck to you!
  
  edit: formatting
  

I got the Pelican 1500 with the lid organizer.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000DYV9H/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00091R0S0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The factory camera tripod doesn't fit with all the other accessories so I got this portable tripod as well.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ANCPNM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm not going to insult anyone here but we really need to start being more honest and less "rosey" about some aspects of VR, particularly Oculus users. The carrying case it comes in is better than a cardboard box for sure, it's much nicer. It's not really a carrying case in the sense that you could travel with it, which is what I'm assuming someone would need a case for. It has a string handle and a faux leather exterior. If you're not careful with it around the kitchen I could see it being almost completely destroyed. A Pelican can literally be run over by a truck, kicked around by airport security, and will even serve as a floation device if said airplane crashes. Overkill? Maybe, but you paid $600 for a VR HMD what's another $100. The 1500 fits the HMD perfectly, all cables/accessories, and (once I get dimensions) am 98% confident will fit the touch controllers as well.

If you're curious, the 1510 fits the Vive with all accessories perfectly and the 1400 fits the Gear VR with a Moga Pro perfectly. I have all 3 with cases and did a LOT of research.

I've done video on a few road trips so hopefully I can offer some direct advice, though my stuff was all self shot. I still do a lot of video so I'm up to date.

1. Don't buy the Sigma 24-70 lens. It doesn't appear to be stabilized and it's way too much of an investment for video. You need stabilization for a run and gun DSLR video lens, and the lens doesn't have to be nearly as top notch as it does for photos. I would recommend something like a kit lens for most shots. Use the 35 for night shots, but the lack of stabilization will make it jittery.
   
   
2. I'd personally recommend a GoPro over an MHD Action Camera, though I haven't really used the MHD. You don't save much and the GoPro has a better codec that can be more easily graded and brought into a DSLR film.
   
   
3. Grab a dead cat or similar for your Rode - makes a huge difference using it in windy conditions. Seems expensive but means much less work cleaning up sound in post.
   
   
4. The NEEWER 160 is a great panel, but consider grabbing two so you can mount one on camera and use a second as a fill/etc. Also these will come in super handy if you need to do any work outside under your car at night and whatnot. ;) Grab a big pack of AA lithiums or a couple sets of Eneloops and a big charger depending on what you can do. Worth it to have some thick white cloth you can put over the panel to soften it and use as a fill during the day as well.
   
   
5. If you need a heavy duty tripod, this has been fantastic for me. Very high quality for the price. If you want something smaller I've also had great luck with this little guy, it's a beast. It easily manages my 5D3 with a 70-200, so the D5200 will be fine, it's just a little less stable in wind/vibration.
   
   
6. I would recommend a small cage at the least. You can mount the light panel and microphone and still be able to get a decent grip on your camera. I don't shoot video without the cage, even if I just have a couple handles screwed into it. I don't like shoulder rigs personally, but a cage makes holding onto a rig much more stable and secure. I shot this using just a cage and a 24mm IS lens, with a 7" screen mounted on top and the only camera shake is when I'm sprinting and even that isn't bad compared to fully handheld.
   
   Don't forget to practice a lot and mess around, and during the trip make sure that if you think about it, you capture it. Every time I edit video from a trip I find myself remembering things that I wished I had filmed.

• I'm probably posting a cliche photography gift here but I absolutely love mine: Lens Mug
  
  
  
• Can't go wrong with a BlackRapid Strap
  
  
  
• If your brother takes a lot of landscapes and doesn't already have this must have tool in his gear which he should: Camera Remote Timer
  
  
  
• If he's always on the go and seems struggle w/ carrying his tripod everywhere, I recommend getting him a Gorilla Pod
  
  
• If he doesn't already have a great backpack for travelling while he is shooting his landscapes, I recommend Amazons Backpack for holding his gear. It's essentially a generic version of Canon's basic backpack.
  
  
  You can also find some fairly cheap "like new" film cameras on Craigslist along with some film.
  Film cameras are the best and it will probably be very nostalgic to the person you are gifting it to.
  
  
  I'm making the assumption that he has a Canon DSLR but you can find most of this gear if he has something like a Nikon, Sony, etc... One thing I love to receive to as a photography gift is more batteries! I use to shoot a lot of landscapes and I could never have enough of these.
  
  Anyways, hopefully you find something for your brother! Good luck!

The Amazon Basics Video tripod (make sure it's the video one with the pan handle) is a good starting point, $23.49. You'll need some sort of iphone to tripod adapter too - they're available at price points from a few dollars to a few hundred dollars. No need to overspend if you're just starting out.

I'd recommend you keep that iphone on a tripod at all times - it's so small and light that hand-held footage will be shakey and offputting.

For lighting, assuming you're in a bedroom-sized space then a 3-point photography CFL lighting kit like this will be great. Nice, soft light which will make whatever you're reviewing look good. Cheap too - $46.99

Although I may be biased, I think sound is probably where most of those funds should go. People will happily watch 240p, grainy, blocky, blurry video on youtube but if they can't hear what you're saying then they're gonna switch off.

For piece-to-camera shooting I'd recommend getting a Rode Smartlav for $71.90. You can plug that straight into your iPhone for sync sound recording.

I'd also suggest getting a large-diaphragm microphone for voiceover work - i.e. whenever you're not filming yourself while talking at the same time. The Behringer C1-U is a great budget option that plugs directly into your computer's USB port for recording for $59.99. You'll need something to put it on such as a Suspension Boom ($17.99) and to make sure your audio is clean you'll need a pop filter. ($8.99)

So that's the very basics covered for $157.45 give or take though you can probably get that cheaper if you shop around. That leaves you $242.55 for some more specialist gear...

Depending on what you're reviewing, I'd recommend looking at lightboxes (5-walled cubes that you put the product in to give yourself a white background and even, soft lighting), and a motorized lazy susan (turntable) to give you some interesting options for b-roll.

If you're filming bigger stuff, then a white backdrop would work as well. You could go for something in optical green for chroma keying but keying is a pretty precise art and chances are if you're a total beginner it won't look that great until you really get the hang of it - so go for plain white first.

Chances are you'll still have some money left over after that too... iPhone footage is pretty damn good but you should start putting together a kitty for upgrading to a proper interchanagable lens camera.

Respectfully, it's a complete waste of time and money. You're better off using your B speaker setup like I use mine as a way to run a different type of speaker for different content not in an AB configuration. That can create its own issues.

Bi wiring / bi amping

McGurk effect video

Better things to do than bi- wiring and bi-amping speakers to improve your audio experience:

1. Experiment with your speaker placements i.e. distance from boundaries, angle of speaker, distance from speaker and height of the tweeter lining up with your ear height at the MLP.
   
   
   
2. Get fully familiar with your receivers room correction type and setup procedures. If there are 6 or 8 different mic positions available at setup use them and rerun the room correction anytime you change what's in the room, your seating position , the speakers themselves or the speakers positions in the room and invest in a boom mic stand and camera mount adapter to keep the audio mic away from reflection points and try to reduce your rooms noise floor as much as possible before running the correction i.e. AC system, ceiling fans , screaming kids or wife.😏
   
   
3. Learn more about passive room treatments. You don't have to go crazy and there are several companies that offer free online modeling programs to determine the type and number of treatments your room might need at affordable prices. GIK Acoustics and ATS Acoustics are 2 good ones that spring to mind.
   
   ATS Acoustics online acoustic analyzer
   
   GIK Acoustics analyzer
   
   
4. Use good quality cables and connectors. Again you don't have to go crazy but getting good affordable cabling and connectors usually helps eliminate or reduce many minor troubleshooting issues to something other than the connectors and cables. Again Blue Jeans Cable and Mediabridge comes to mind but there are others.
   
   
5. Download the freeware program REW and just play with it a bit. You'll need a calibrated audio mic with an HDMI cable or stereo RCA connector to fulfill its full potential but there is a built in room modeling program that anyone with a sealed rectangular room can get some good benefits from using without a mic or cable and it gives you time to get more comfortable with what is a fully equipped acoustical software program and did I mention that it's free.?
   
   Room Equalization Wizard
   
   There's more. Like learn speaker specifications and what they mean with regards to efficiency and power requirements but these are the major things that came to my mind ahead of bi- anything.

Buy the nicer remote, it's not that much more expensive, and you get backlight, timer, intervalometer, and a shot counter. It'll help you with those night shots, as you easily can do multiple long exposures to stack. In addition, I would recommend something like this wireless remote, they're cheap and much easier to use!

I got these in Coromandel with just single long exposures, but ended up with a ton of noise, so I would highly recommend stacking, and for stacking you need a stable tripod that you don't mind getting sandy.

The gorillapod will be good, since it's light and you can pose your camera on rocks and sand. Though, I would recommend a ball head:

GorillaPod w/ ballhead and spirit level or

GorillaPod w/ ballhead and level Red

I don't own a gorillapod, so I'm not sure what the different between these is, so I don't know why the red one is cheaper, but that's the kind of thing you want. Without the ball head, angling the camera is a pain. I had this shitty extendable travel tripod, and it fell over if I tried to point it straight up, even when I wedged it in the sand.

Your lens should be decent, while not the sharpest, you'll enjoy the long reach. The Tamron doesn't look chunky, so if you don't mind the image quality, it'll be good for climbing around.

Most importantly bring good waterproof hiking boots and a head lamp, they'll make your life significantly easier!

Where all are you planning on traveling?

Hi /u/griel1o1 - it's taken me several years and a lot of trial and error - but I have put together a little studio that works. Using what I've learned, you can put together a complete production studio for less than $1000. Here is what I recommend [Referral Links]:

CAMERA:

• [Panasonic DMC-G6 camera with kit lens - $710] (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575034783&toolid=10001&campid=5337235943&customid=&icep_item=201073493366&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg). This is the best value for money large sensor, interchangeable lens camera with a video-capable viewfinder, hours of continuous recording and a mic jack below $1000. Links below the equipment list show what this camera can do. DSLRs such as the Canon T2i/T3i/T4i/T5i have viewfinders that go blank when you switch to video mode (blocked by the mirror, which is useless for filmmaking). This forces you to use the LCD for composition and focus - which can be a chalenge outdoors, where the LCD can be washed out by bright sunlight. Many Canon shooters buy expensive LCD viewfinders or Electronic Viewfinders (EVFs) to shoot outdoors. The G6, on the other hand, has a built-in EVF - so outdoor shooting is not a problem.
  
  DSLRs are also limited to 12-30 minutes of continuous recording before they have to be restarted. The G6 can record for hours continuously, without interruption. This can be very helpful for long interviews and speeches.
  
  This camera is also compatible with power zoom lenses, when you can afford them. There are no affordable power zoom lenses for low-end Canon DSLRs.
  
  SUPPORT:
  
  
• [Ravelli AVTP Professional Tripod - $130] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00139W0XM/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00139W0XM&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20). I own this tripod, and it is professional quality, with a 75mm bowl - which allows you to level the camera without adjusting the legs. A huge time saver.
  
  AUDIO:
  
  
• [2 Rode Smart Lavs to plug into iPhones - $120] (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575034783&toolid=10001&campid=5337235943&customid=&icep_item=181244511796&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg) With the [free Rode Rec LE App] (https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/r-de-rec-le/id590021166?mt=8), you can plug these mics into iPhones, sync the audio tracks in the editing suite, and have a pro quality recording solution without buying an external recorder.
  
  
• [SmartLav to camera adapter - $17] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L6C8PNU/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00L6C8PNU&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20). For shots where you need to plug one of the lavs directly into the camera.
  
  LIGHTING:
  
  
• [LimoStudio 3 point Umbrella Lighting Kit - $50] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005FHZ2SI/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B005FHZ2SI&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20)
  
  TOTAL STUDIO COST:
  
  $1027
  
  Here is the image quality this camera can produce:
  
  Documentary:
  
  http://vimeo.com/97274302
  
  http://vimeo.com/73561266
  
  http://vimeo.com/87978429
  
  http://vimeo.com/78507820
  
  Narrative:
  
  http://vimeo.com/78037118
  
  http://vimeo.com/81339712
  
  Music Video:
  
  http://vimeo.com/88584840
  
  http://vimeo.com/84436275
  
  Slow Motion/Sport:
  
  http://vimeo.com/76503135
  
  Travel Video:
  
  http://vimeo.com/88543042
  
  http://vimeo.com/86145944 (shot with a power zoom lens)
  
  Compared to the $3000 Canon 5D Mark III: http://vimeo.com/82318903
  
  There are many more examples on the Panasonic G6 channel I moderate over on Vimeo: https://vimeo.com/groups/dmcg6
  
  It's a pretty good still camera too:
  
  https://www.flickr.com/groups/lumix-g6/pool/
  
  https://www.flickr.com/groups/2217639@N20/
  
  Hope this is helpful and saves you some time and money!
  
  Bill
  

A question before I start; will you be using an editor to sync things up in post or would you rather take things together(audio and video) and have them all sorted out at one time?

Here's a list of things that I think would be beneficial, but not an encompassing list. If you're trying to go for a cheap list that could still get the job done, I find that these items have decent reviews on Amazon and websites and they do offer a good starting point for a budget.

1. The Camera: Canon EOS M2 ($250)
   
   I feel like the Canon EOS M2 would be a strong contender. It is actually a mirrorless camera that has the same sensor as that of the more expensive T3i. Due to it's lack of popularity with photographers due to the slower autofocus, it has seen multiple price reductions. Although it contains autofocusing issues in the photography modes, it's video modes are what really helps this camera out. You have a good starting lens with an 18-55mm lens, which may be wide enough for that room at 18, but it could even be close enough for a closer image. You can even be more technical and add in other features. Also this camera has a direct mic-in line for use of an external mic, like the shotgun mic below.
   
   
2. The Audio: Zoom H1 Portable Audio Recorder $99 OR TAKSTAR SGC-598 $29.99
   
   Audio is key here. You want to be able to hear the pastor as he gives sermons, so you have two general models. You can place the portable recorder closer to him, giving you crisp audio at a very minimal distance, or you can attach a shotgun microphone to the camera and pick it up from a distance further away. The only thing is, would you rather have the camera do it all for you or would you rather have to sync up the audio in editing? The Zoom mic is nice because you can purchase one of these ($21.38) and mic the pastor up before service to give a very crisp lapel audio.
   
   
3. The SD Cards: Sandisk 64GB 80mb/s ($22.49)
   
   This should be a given.
   
   
4. Power and Adapters: AC Adapter ($15.50) OR 2-Pack Spare Batteries($28.99)
   
   You can choose to have it either plugged in the whole time during recording, or you can have it run off of batteries. Your personal preference.
   
   
5. Tripod: AmazonBasics 60" tripod ($23.49)
   
   You requested a tripod for the ease of use.
   
   Given that you live in the US, after taxes, you're essentially looking at a $500 setup for all of that equipment. That may not be the best equipment for people or even be suggested by anyone else here, but that is just my $0.02.
   
   
   Source: Use the EOS M1 and most of the gear listed.

Sorry, I didn't provide much background - Here is something I posted in an earlier thread
>
> My current equipment :
>
> 1. Camera : Canon T3i
> 2. Lenses : Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8, Canon 50mm f/1.8, Canon 55-250mm f/4.0-f/5.6
> 3. Tripod : Proline Dolica
> 4. Software : Photoshop CS3 and Lightroom 6
>
> Using these, I manage to get these : Album
>
> I want to further my astrophotography, but realize I would need better equipment to better these.
>
>
>
> Which of these would be best bang for my buck for a step forward with astrophotography?
>
> 1. A tracker : Ioptron SkyTracker OR Vixen Polarie
> 2. A good solid tripod and ball head
> 3. PixInsight software (Is there a cheap or free alternative to a $250 software? I tried DSS, but found it to be inconsistent with results)
>
> I know a good answer to this would be 'everything', but I can't get myself to spend a lot of $$ at this moment. I could spend a few hundred on one of these, and then at a later point re-evaluate.
>
> Thanks for hooking me into this awesome hobby!

Basically, I have already tried my hand at the milky way and the moon. Without a telescope or a longer zoom lens, I doubt I could do planetary photography. Once I convince myself to buy an Ioptron Skytracker, it could open me up to getting shots of the Pleiades cluster, Andromeda galaxy, Orion nebula. Hence my question.

So it just coincidence then, that all three of them are around the same part of the sky?

Well kind of the same deal, but my point still stands. I meant a boom mic with the adapter which is basically the same damn thing but a longer arm. The thing folds up and I haven't used mine in a while and I always think it's a tripod which it basically is.

I still think I'd win in court because it's logistics and tangible difference is putting it mildly, more like, after reading all the nuances of how to actually run audyssey, and no you don't pick up whatever shitty thing they give you and plop it in 8 different spots and think it'll be fine, you probably made it even worse actually because it's crazy precise and beyond amazing. The Judge would make you eat your hat unless you have a great lawyer.

Denon actually pays them to let them use it and it's the best in the world and you don't know how lucky you are to actually have the top of the line too. Take a pic or let me see your distance levels between the speakers and then just the Audyssey specs on the levels.

Here is what to get:

https://www.amazon.com/Stage-Stands-MS7701B-Tripod-Microphone/dp/B000978D58 - Boom/Tripod

https://www.amazon.com/CM01-Camera-Digital-Recorder-Adapter/dp/B001GWCC4I/ -- mic mount

The adapter that goes in the end and you screw in the mic perfectly and then you are ready to rock and roll to set it at perfect ear level, swivel it in 3 different positions so you don't have to go crazy by making sure all the positions are equal. Plus if you have a couch or recliner or something you can kind of work around it as best you can. So when you read the forums that is what they'll tell you to get too, although they are crazy over on AVS so I bet they will tell you to get some $200 boom mic/Tripod but that is just fine and what we've (people on avs) have been using for years, although I haven't been keeping up with the latest info the past few years. There are a few vids on youtube that I saw a year or two a go using a boom mic, which is how you do it, but I can only imagine the finer points of your setting.

I have a 4k TV that my 7.1 Denon doesn't display a picture at all, but that's not a problem for me because I remember ever single little setting on the receiver by heart so it's not even an issue for me and running it just fine through HDMI from computer to receiver then back to TV while still keeping all the bitstreaming and lossless formats which makes me think I can hold off even though I'm starring at the $500 3400H in my cart right now and it's a hell of a deal but with the new models coming out I'm sure we'll see it again.

I recently got into motorsport photography. Not quite birds but it also moves fast, requires good focus and you're far away.

I did this on a limited budget. And I'd suggest you do the same, with your 800 pounds that is very possible.

For a Camera I'd suggest one of Nikons older Pro Sports cameras, The Nikon D300 or D300s. They features a excellent autofocus system, better than many of the newer cameras suggested (like the D3300 or such).

​

The D300 should run about 200 pounds on Ebay. This is for example a good model with about 44k clicks. The D300S is a bit more. It's not crucial ,it shoots 1 frame per second more (7 opposed to the 6 of the non S model). But the D300 with a battery grip can Shoot 8 fps too so not a big deal. The 300S also does video, 720p, the 300 non S does no video. And lastly the D300s features duel card slots, a CompactFlasah slot and a SD card slot, the D300 only has a CompactFlash slot. All these things aren't really worth the extra cost to me, but they might be to you.

​

So we got 200 pounds spend there, lets add about 30 for a good Compact Flash card (Sandisk ones are solid, I'd recommend 32gb or so).

​

Now onto lenses. Since you're shooting birds you want range. Unfortunately massive reach also means massive cost. So to start out I'd recommend the new AF-P DX Nikkor 70-300 mm f/4.5-6.3G ED VR . It's a newer lens with a extremely quiet autofocus motor. It's 70-300mm ( you can multiply this by 1.5 for a crop sensor body like the D300, So you reach will be 105mm - 450mm).

​

It's not super far, some telephoto lenses run up to 800mm . But it's only 300 pounds which Is very affordable for a long lens.  It's absolutely crucial you get the VR version of this lens. The VR version has image stabiisation, which is important if you want to shoot long ranges and hand held.

​

So with those things we are up to 200+30+300 = 530 pounds. That's a fairly essential kit and I reckon you should be off well with that to start. I'd recommend you also buy a solid tripod. I use the Amazon Basics one, but it's not that great. I'd recommend a higher quality one. Its too short for me and it's not that sturdy, but it was cheap as chips. Regardless I'd suggest to invest once in a good tripod. ) And lastly a bag. I use this K&F Sling bag to carry it all. Spend the remainder of the money on some trips to places with actual birds :)

Mind you, these lenses don't have the widest apertures around so these work well in daylight. If you want to shoot in the evening or at night these really wont do. You'll go into 8000 pound territory there.

​

Later on I'd suggest looking at the Sigma 150-600mm F/5-6.3 DG HSM Contemporary . Which is a incredible value telephoto lens. For faster prime lenses, there is a 300mm F4 vintage Nikon that is manual focus , but does have a wider aperture and costs about 250-300 pounds used.

​

That's probably the best you can do with your limited budget. I know 800 pounds is a lot of money but wildlife photography is probably the most expensive vorm of photography.

​

​

TLDR: Buy a Nikon D300, the AF-P 70-300mm DX lens with VR. Buy a tripod/bag/CF card and later invest in the 150-600mm Sigma Contemporary.

​

my suggestions:

1. For room-scale setup, a minimum play area of 2 m x 1.5 m (6 ft 6 in x 5 ft) is required. That's if you're up and walking around. If you have more space, great. If you are going to be seated, you don't require this. Definitely figure out how/where you're going to mount your lighthouses - I'd recommend camera mounts like this for a booth setup.
   
2. For your audience, I'd recommend Google Earth VR (it's free and awe-inducing - can be played seated), Tilt Brush (also awe-inducing but room scale), The Blu (solid short demo), Apollo 11 Experience (for history buffs), and Titans of Space 2.0 (can also be seated, and the sense of scale in this one is pretty incredible). As far as games go, I always go to Space Pirate Trainer and Lucky's Tale (via the Revive overlay, free still from the Oculus Store I think?) for people newer to VR. Careful if you don't have a lot of space with SPT, you don't want someone smacking innocent bystanders with a Vive wand.
   
3. I'm personally curious as to your ideas to incorporate VR into genealogy. I think the audience of VR enthusiasts here skew toward the gamer, but there's a lot of VR 'experiences' that I believe have only scratched the surface of the possibilities of VR.
   
4. Maybe /r/virtualreality/? I dunno, this is as good a place as any I think.

If you want the best bang for your buck, I'd recommend the following

1. Camera:
   
   Canon T3i: Budget friendly camera. Has the same sensor as the T4i, T5i, and 60D at a lower price. Capable of HD video(1080p, 720p).
   
   
2. Lenses:
   
   Canon 50mm 1.8: 50mm lenses are known as the standard lens, because it's extremely versatile. That specific one is a pretty good lens if you're on a budget. It you're looking for something of better quality, go for the 50mm 1.4.
   
   Note: you can acquire other focal length lenses if you need them, rokinon makes great lenses that are in the $300 range that are all around amazing lenses compared to the lenses in the quadruple digits.
   
   
3. Lights:
   
   LED Panels: Two of these kits and you should be good to go. LED's are better, more portable, and easier to handle than traditional lighting kits.
   
   
4. Audio:
   
   If it's going to be one or two people, then I'd recommend lavalier mics. There are tons of them available. You can record directly with a computer, or you can buy an audio recorder(there are tons of those too) and have the mics hooked up to that.
   
   
5. Editing Software: Most people nowadays are using Adobe Premiere. You can get a Creative Cloud Premiere account for $20 a month.
   
   
6. Computer: If your boss wants a mac, go with either a iMac or a Macbook. Both should get the job done with the editing, although the iMac will have a bigger display which is more handy when editing.
   
   
7. Extras:
   
   Tripod: If you want something great and cheap, I'd recommend the Amazon Basics Video Tripod. There are tons of more professional and expensive tripods on the market if you want to go the more expensive route.
   
   
   Battery Grip for the T3i: There are tons of non-OEM grips on ebay for around $25-50. Being able to have two batteries in at once is handy.
   
   Extra Batteries for the T3i: It's always good to have extras since there's nothing more annoying than having to end a shoot because you're out of batteries. Non OEM ones can be found on ebay for cheap. I recently bought 3 for $15.
   
   Memory Cards: Having multiple cards is always nice, a couple 32GB or 64GB cards is always nice to have.
   
   External Hard Drive: Video takes up a lot of space, storing the video files on an External Hard Drive is a good idea so your computer doesn't get filled with nothing but video files.
   
   
   That's the basics, I hope I didn't overlook anything. If your boss wants the most expensive, then just look for the biggest step up of what i recommended, i.e. a 5D over the T3i, the more expensive canon lenses, name brand lights, audio gear and accessories.
   
   
   

There's two main adapters worth your while you may or may not be aware of. First the Metabones Speed Booster from Canon to MFT which has full electronic control and reduces the focal length to make it equivalent of having the lens on a APS-C body (roughly). The same happens with aperture making efectively 1 stop brighter and even sharper.

This is an expensive adapter so there's the cheap solution with the Mitakon Zhongyi Lens Turbo II that, unlike the Metabones, does not have electronics but does quite a nice job for around 1/3 of the price. The Nikon version does have an aperture control ring, not sure about the others. You can use a cheap adapter ring to get the Pentax to fit any of these I believe.

As for a tripod I'd look into the AmazonBasics workhorse (I know, I know) that you may be skeptical about, and yes, it's not perfect but for the price it's an amazing piece of gear.

SD Card-wise I have a couple of these and they've been working wonders.

I've seen general praise over SmallRig cage so you may want to look into that. You can get just the basic cage or you can add a handle a ton of other stuff.

I don't think you'd need an external recorder right now and even if you got it, the signal that the G7 outputs it's kind of weak. 8 Bit 4:2:0 as far as I remember (maybe 4:2:2 but the real difference would be 10 Bit). The general rule of thumb is always shoot 4K and use it on 1080 timelines. That makes for a super detailed 1080 image that has room for reframing.

You can get some bang for the buck LED Lights in the Yongnuo Yn 300 III with even cheaper prices if you get a slightly older model. They are not spectacular but I think you can't go wrong for the price and they output quite an amount of light. Here is a review just so you can see them in action. This guy uses a G7 with a Lumix 25mm 1.7 I believe so that may give a more real life scenario.

That's all I can think right now, I hope you find some if this stuff useful and congrats on your purchase, it's an awesome little camera, I think it will work wonders for your kind of projects.

For backdrops, you have several choices. The cheapest is a hanging basic cloth background. The downside to these is they wrinkle easy. So then the next step many people go with is Seamless paper. It is my preferred home studio setup, if I am going to be taking a lot of pictures with the same backdrop, I can use one roll of seamless and call it a day. However you have the added part of you are going to be setting it up and tearing it down each time, so my personal recommendation for a backdrop is a pop up backdrop. These are great for headshots or even 3/4 body shots, you can't do full body, but for makeup you don't need full body. The great thing about pop up backdrops is you are able to fold them up and use a single light stand to hold it up. Setup is less than a minute, compared to the several minutes setting up a real backdrop holder.

https://www.amazon.com/Fovitec-StudioPRO-Double-Sided-Collapsible-Background/dp/B00FJ1JX3A is the one I have, and I love it. I use it at corporate events where they want a photo booth type situation, with easy setup and tear down.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003WGNSTE as my backdrop stand, plenty sturdy for this useage

and

https://www.amazon.com/Limostudio-Photography-Studio-Reflector-AGG1411/dp/B00M3I6A8S to hold up the backdrop on the stand.

If you don't like the grey there are several other color combos, and even green screen combos from the same vendor of backdrops. So unless you need full body shots, I would really consider this instead of a standard backdrop and backdrop stand system.

https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Lightweight-Portable-Monopod-Capacity/dp/B00NSEKEMO/ right now is my tripod of choice. For the price its hard to beat.

As far as lights, for makeup I would want nice soft light, so for me that is octoboxes for your key light. https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Octagonal-Speedlite-Speedlight-Photography/dp/B00PIM3I7W/ is a nice one if you are going to go with strobes/monolights, or if you are going to go with a speedlight setup, https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-centimeters-Octagonal-Speedlight-Photography/dp/B00PIM3I6I/

https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Rotatable-Aluminum-Adjustable-Photography/dp/B01CHQ8Z7Y is highly reccomended for the octobox so you can get the perfect angles.

The t3i is a still camera above all else - the shallow depth of field that it is famous for will be a nightmare if you plan on shooting things by yourself (if you plan to put it up on sticks and perform to the camera). It is very pretty for isolating the subject in your video, but it requires precise control - someone has to be working the focus if the subject moves.

If you plan on shooting things yourself without help, I would advise getting a smaller sensor camcorder with auto-focus. The smaller sensor means the depth of field is very long, and keeps all things in relative focus, plus the auto-focus would help you out tremendously. Plus it's cheaper.

However, if your heart is set on a DSLR, then I would highly advise against a fixed focal length lens, especially the 50mm 1.8. The t3i has an APS-C sensor, which means that the 50mm will actually give you an 80mm field of view. This is a tight and narrow focal length, so forget about wide shots if your kitchen is small. Get an EF-S zoom lens, which is designed for the APS-C sensor, is very flexible so with the turn of the barrel, you can go from wide to close up without having to phsyically move the camera toward the subject.

Going back to the issue of solo-operation, I would not recommend the zoom h4n, unless again, you have someone that could operate it while you perform. The zoom is a shitty $300 microphone, so if you plan on shooting in your kitchen, I would get a cheaper microphone that plugs into your camera and would perform much better than the zoom. The zoom is great as a secondary system, but then you have to deal with adding it into your videos in post, which is not a huge headache, but it will nonetheless add more to your post workflow. A wired lavalier microphone connected directly into your camera would be easier, and give you better audio pickup than the zoom, unless you plan on holding the zoom up to your face while you speak.

If you want to do birds eye view shots, get a still camera tripod like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Ravelli-Professional-Camera-Tripod-Release/dp/B004RBX0GO/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1345196263&sr=8-5&keywords=tripod

For video, any class 4 SD card will perform the same as a class 10 - the only advantage with class 10 is if you are shooting still images in rapid succession, which is much more data than 1080p video.

Hope this helps you from making a costly mistake.

Unfortunately that's a bit of a tricky question for me because I've never used a fluid head tripod in that price range, so I couldn't tell you for sure what I recommend.

My good friend does have one of these Ravelli fluid head tripods though
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00139W0XM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_wYjGzbVN8V3T9

Its just out of your price range at around $150, but I've worked with it and can say that for the money it's a great tripod.

I've also worked with this manfrotto 700rc2 (actually got lucky, someone left a perfectly good one sitting by a dumpster up here in Chicago haha). But it's also served me well, especially with lighter cameras like the g7/t5i, and you can find the head for those for about $80, so may just be interested in buying a head and adapting it to a cheaper tripod.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JLO6V4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_b0jGzb1GJDEHJ

I do a LOT of production for major television networks. I often have to help amateurs learn the basics for simple shoots.

Let's pretend you're using your cell phone camera (which is fine for most things like this).

Photography/Video basics:

1. Never have a light source behind you. (if you stand in front of a window or the sun is at your back then you will show up as a black blob.)
   
   
2. DO NOT SHOOT VERTICAL VIDEO. It won't showcase well on any television or computer. Plus it's hard to frame up two people vertically unless you're a mile back. If you are doing something SPECIFICALLY for snapchat or instagram then vertical is fine. Don't record the whole thing in vert.
   
   
3. Audio will be a nightmare. Plan to use music instead of the actual audio... if you find a quiet place to perform than use the actual audio from there. Have your camera person be quiet. You don't want them laughing and talking over you.
   
   
4. Shoot wide. She needs to get you and the spectator in the shot. Nobody wants just close ups of hands or heads chopped off of bodies... remember you want to see the performance AND reaction.
   
   
5. Feel free to move the camera around, but try to keep it steady while doing so. Hand-held is fine, but flopping the phone around or running to a new vantage point during a trick is bad.
   
   
6. GoPro's are great, but will be fisheye no matter what. I'd suggest a phone for maximum usability. Really only use GoPro for artsy angles once in a while. Or sit it on the edge of a table to get a super wide pov.
   
   
   
   TECH STUFF:
   
   
7. set your camera to 4K resolution and 24fps (if available). This will give you a file that is four times HD so you can crop out stuff and push in as needed to give a second camera effect. It will take up a LOT of space so dump it off of your phone at the end of each day (also make sure your phone has a lot of space left before you start filming).
   
   
8. Bring a hard drive with you. You'll fill up a laptop... bring a drive with lots of room for 4K footage.
   
   
9. Don't cut during a trick. Record for 10 seconds before you start and at least 10 seconds afterwards. You don't want to stop the video as soon as you finish. You want plenty to work with in the edit bay. Also if you cut from one camera to another during a trick it gives the viewer a spot to say "Hey, he just did some tricky camera shit." Let them see the whole performance in one take.
   
   -----------------
   
   Buy a cheap phone grip, selfie stick, monopod, or stabilizer... It'll help with her fatigue over a 8 min trick. That's a long time to hold your arm up with a phone. These guys will wrap around poles and hang from anything. In addition having a cheap pistol grip will do wonders for stabilizing.
   
   Make sure to buy one you can attach a phone mount or GoPro to. A monopod is a great way to set up the shot you want, hit record, then babysit it without fatigue. It will wobble when you hit record, so give it a few seconds to calm down before you start. This is the best bang for your buck. It allows an unmanned view and can be used as a stabilizer AND see over crowds or over your shoulder.

i'm also looking to start getting in to taking some top down angle game play videos.

I'm thinking about using tall mic stands for tri pods so can position them behind the machines:

http://amzn.com/B00CFP5CRO
http://amzn.com/B001GWCC4I

papa looks like they've built their own which are much larger and i'm not sure how mobile they are but i would ideally like to make a good mobile solution.

comments on your videos would be the position of the top down camera angle could be better aligned, lighting could be better and the audio could be also better.

I went to buy a GoPro the other day. I left the store with a Gorillapod instead. I grabbed this old waterproof digital camera I had bought 2nd hand for less than 100 bucks a couple of years ago and headed out onto the water.

This was the result.

I was quite pleased. I didn't even know the camera was capable of "HD" video.

I am now so glad I didn't spend a chunk of money on a GoPro. Sure, it's a better camera...but I'm perfectly happy with what I already had.

Pure luck: The Gorillapod tripod legs actually clip into the combing of the kayak as if the boat and tripod were designed for each other. Great for those times when I don't use a spray skirt. For the times when I do, I bought this!

I bought a canon rebel on Amazon. Works great. I think I spent around $200. I wanted a little more than the kit lens (though it's fine) so I bought these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007N83VQM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_Bl7CwbRDHJBB3
They basically turn your kit lens into a macro lens. I will say though that you have to use manual focus when you use these. Can't beat the price though.

I have this tripod: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005KP473Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_2m7Cwb8TNTP51

And this light: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=&sku=379774&gclid=CJe68avv5MkCFU1gfgodmMQLWA&Q=&ap=y&m=Y&is=REG&A=details

I use a reflector too but that light comes with a decent one.

This site has a lot of great tips, I particularly like this article and it uses the light above: http://pinchofyum.com/artificial-lighting-tips-for-food-photography.

Here's a photo I took with my setup tonight -- https://instagram.com/p/_bHx--BgJh/

Good luck! It's fun to learn all this stuff. (Disclaimer: I'm not a chef, I just like taking nice food photos).

Generally speaking, any SD card will work. However, if it's too slow, you might not be able to record video for very long, and writing images to the card might take longer.

That said, the T6 isn't a particularly demanding camera for SD cards. A card like this won't limit the camera in any way, and is quite affordable.

You might also want to pick up a few accessories. I personally would suggest getting a lens hood. They help prevent flare, and can even slightly protect your lens against impacts from the front. There's no reason to buy the official ones, though. Here's a third party one that will work on your lens, and is way cheaper than the Canon one.

You might also want a tripod, so you can play around with long exposures and low light shooting. It doesn't really make sense for you to buy anything super fancy at this point. I've heard good things about the Amazon Basics one, and it's less than $20.

Beyond that, you might want a camera bag. I don't really know much about what is out there right now, but there should be plenty of options. It might be a good idea to go to your local electronics store and try out a few, since you want to make sure that it's comfortable.

Let me know if you have any other questions, and good luck shooting!

Im new to the game as well, but so far these are the things I have picked up for my G6:

first, i bought a G6 kit that came with some handy stuff

I have also purchased

A slightly better tripod

A flood light

Battery pack for said light

Variable ND Fader for filming out doors

Rode shotgun Mic

Zoom H1

Lav mic to go with the H1

Headphones to listen for levels

Triple Mount Hot Shoe

Backpack to hold everything

This is just a fun lens, and its cheap the 50mm means its a 100mm equivelent, so its for really tight portraits, but the low aperture is good for low/light and for a very shallow field depth. When I am able to use it, this lens produces the most popular results when i post them online.

new strap cause the one that comes with the G6 sucks!

What i want to get:

A bigger zoom lens I am mostly interested in videography(weddings etc), and this would be good for back of the house shots)

The M 3/4's "nifty fifty"

It sounds like what I was recommending is a reasonable starter and you can look at adding and improving the video kit as you gain experience.

Have a look at some beginner tutorials on youtube how to use room lighting, how to frame a shot and how to set your audio levels.

Without knowing budget, it's a bit hard to know what to look at recommending equipment wise. Order of priority for spend would be camera 1st, audio 2nd, tripod 3rd. You will need all of these, however value for money will change with different size budgets.

If you are willing to buy 2nd hand, you could make the budget go further, but some business might not want to do this.

Here's a quick budget as an starter example only, you can go cheaper and you can go more expensive and you can add more items (bags etc) as you need to.

Camera + storage card $1000-1500 Canon XA11 (Amazon link)

Mic $450-600 Sennheiser G3 wireless lav mic (Amazon link)

Tripod $100-200 Ravelli video tripod (Amazon link)

The linked items are for illustration purposes to give you a starting point, there may be better options - go read/watch reviews as this is a fast changing market. If you are in the US, B&H are a well known and respected video retail brand (I am not affiliated with them at all), give them a call and get their advice for your budget, then go and research their suggestions.

If you do go with a wireless mic solution make sure you buy a set which transmits on a frequency suitable for your country as this does change around the world and check if you need a licence (there are usually some frequencies which are free to use, but might be more prone to interference).

I highly recommend NOT getting the fisheye converter or the starter pack kit of cheapo accessory lenses. I know it sounds like a good deal because you're getting a lot of "stuff" but frankly all of those things are complete and utter crap. Take the $75 and the extra $220 dollars you wish to spend and spend it on a fast prime like the AF-S DX NIKKOR
35mm f/1.8G and spend at least a little more on a decent tripod with a ballhead like this affordable Dolica Tripod. I used one of those tripods for years doing studio work and landscapes and it's actually pretty good. A steal for $50 and sure to be better than the one you originally linked to.

Trust me on this one, you'll thank me later. That 35mm f/1.8 will be the best lens you'll own for a long time, guaranteed.

If I understand correctly, you will either be standing or sitting in the same general location in the room. If this is the case, you will be fine with the light house positions unless when you sit there is something blocking the line of sight to the lighthouse (high backed chair, furniture ,etc). I don't anticipate this being the case as you position them in opposite corners, diagonal from where you generally face so that you can position them to minimize any obstructions.

​

If you wanted to do a room scale play area somewhere in the room, you would need to move the lighthouses. To do this the best way, get light stands. I got these from Amazon Fovitec Light Stands for this purpose. I have a large room scale play area near my computer. When I want to play DCS or Elite Dangerous, I move the lighthouses around my desk where my HOTAS, rudder pedals and keyboard are. It's a bit of a pain but it's not that bad. DCS is incredible in VR. You will never be able to play it any other way.

​

General advice on setting up is to follow the directions as it's pretty simple. Main mistake I hear people making is plugging things incorrectly on the connector box (this has cables to the PC, power and the tether to the headset). Have a look for some videos if you are uncertain, that's what I did. Play the free game The Lab as it's a great introduction to the basics of VR and is a lot of fun with some cool things to discover in it.

Hi this is really nice of you to do :)

But okay here goes: (Really hopes you like star wars)

Kylo Ren Voice Changer! because why wouldn't you want to sound like one of the most badass villains in Star Wars.

Iphone 5 Armband for when you go running and can listen to your music! :)

Running Wireless Headphones So you can blast your tunes without tripping all over the place like me haha.

Poe Dameron X wing Because the force is strong with this one :)

Camera Tripod Because you like to take photos! :)

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1208931-REG/panasonic_lumix_dmc_g7_mirrorless_micro.html

I'd recommend a Lumix G7. This is $600 and comes with a stabilized, wide-ish zoom lens and a RODE mic. Better yet, get the one with the $100 gift card and use it towards a decent shotgun mic like an AT875 to run into your recorder. Blows canon dslr's out of the water in terms of video features. Great for run and gun because it's well laid out and intuitive to use.

Get a decent tripod like this: http://www.amazon.com/Ravelli-AVTP-Professional-Camera-Tripod/dp/B00139W0XM/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1458693144&sr=8-6&keywords=video+tripod

Maybe pick up a decently fast wide panasonic OIS lens.

Spend the rest on a solid rail-based shoulder support rig and any additional accessories.

If you think you'll be filming a lot of single subject interview typew things where theyre not moving around a ton, look into a lavalier kit. Make sure you have good headphones, like these: http://www.amazon.com/Sony-MDRV6-Studio-Monitor-Headphones/dp/B00001WRSJ/ref=sr_1_2?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1458693500&sr=1-2&keywords=sony+mdr

Light stands or standard camera tripods work fine but yeah, nothing's going to make moving them easy.

Having a pair of GorillaPods (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Joby-GorillaPod-Original-Tripod-Charcoal/dp/B0087FFTT2/ref=sr_1_7?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1495786565&sr=1-7&keywords=flexible+tripod) or cheap alternatives (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Rollei-Monkey-Flexible-Tripod-Camcorder/dp/B00NFWN3YK/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1495786565&sr=1-4&keywords=flexible+tripod) might make angles easier when using them on the ground OR allow you to take advantage of parts of the room to gain height.

Bring some tape / reusable cable ties to give you options for running the sync cable as if you do place them on the ground it will be pretty essential.

Bioquip.com sells good collecting lights.

I use (the DC version that I have cut the end off and replaced with alligator clips and run it off a boat/car battery (I forget which but they have a handle attached for transport and use a trickle charger to recharge when not in use. If I'm using a generator In use the ac version)
https://www.bioquip.com/search/DispProduct.asp?pid=2805

If I'm using a generator this is my preferred light

https://www.bioquip.com/search/DispProduct.asp?pid=2819

For a sheet setup cheap $2.00 white bed sheets from Walmart work just fine. My quick go anywhere setup is two shepherd hooks (get ones that thick solid prongs with good welds or they will bent when going into hard ground)
https://www.homedepot.com/b/Outdoors-Garden-Center-Planters-Shepherds-Hooks/N-5yc1vZbx6t

Attach the sheet at all four corners so it won't flap in the wind. Then one laying on the ground in front of the upright sheet as many land on the ground and crawl up

To hold the light I use this tripod (or you can use another shepherd hook)
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005KP473Q?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

You will also want a mallet to help get the shepherd hooks in the ground and headlamps to see what has landed on the sheet.

If in North America this is the best Moth book (hands down/no question) and could make another awesome alternative present
https://smile.amazon.com/Moths-Western-North-America-Powell/dp/0520251970/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=opler.moths&qid=1558397719&s=gateway&sr=8-1

1. Thank you so much for your suggestion! question: I've seen these talked about, what are your thoughts? Also it's cheaper.
   
   
2. Riight, the fujifilm kit lens I have goes down to 2.8f at best, and I kept finding my shots to be grainy, or just not pulling light in Perhaps I was just overcompensating with ISO, and not trusting that it would turn out okay in post production?? Also, are a lot of night sky shots people take composite images? Like one for just the sky and one for the ground/horizon?
   
   
3. Cheers :) The photocritique subreddit just seems to be the same top comment every time 'where is your subject' 'where are the lines pointing to'
   
   4+5. I see. Great. Thank you so much for your answer!

What tripod do I get? I have an a6000.

I'm hoping to spend around $50. I've looked around on this sub, and I've seen many people recommend MeFoto tripods, but they're quite expensive.

Something like this seems great, but due to it's really low price, I don't think it would be as sturdy as I'd hope. I was looking at a few other models and was wondering if these are good options?(Correct me if I'm wrong, but basically any tripod will fit my camera):

1. Camera Tripod - Monopod Stand for Travel Video Canon Nikon DSLR Camera with Bag
   
   
2. Albott 70" Travel Portable DSLR Camera Tripod Monopod Flexible Head for Canon Nikon with Carry Bag
   
   
3. InnerTeck Tripod - 70 Inches Professional Camera Tripod Monopod with Carry Bag for SLR DSLR Canon Nikon Sony DV Video - Travel Portable Tripod
   
   
4. ZOMEI Q111 55" Flexible Camera Tripod 4s Stand with 1/4 Mount 3-Way PanHead for DSLR EOS Canon Nikon Sony Samsung(Red)
   
   My main use for this tripod is to shoot B-Roll, so something sturdy and something that pans smoothly is ideal.

I know this is late to the post but I use a Pedco Ultrapod II when I hike. Two of the legs fold into the third and are secured shut with a velcro strap that does double duty as an attachment device for mounting the tripod on branch, pole, etc... The tripod is pretty sturdy with my Fuji mirrorless and 18-55 on it. I've done some astro-photography with it and some long exposure on a rock in the middle of a creek. Those photos are both in my review of the tripod on Amazon and probably somewhere in my post history here. Pretty amazing for about $20.

Yes.

It's a good scope within it's limitations. You can often find them used for cheaper. (Craigslist, Facebook marketplace, Ebay.)

https://i.imgur.com/MAJAH7c.jpg - Taken with one, though to be fair, it's the cheapest component of the system used^1. (Note that this is taken with a narrowband filter, so Chromatic Aberration is almost non existent.) Which is the only major issue with it, and when I use it, I don't find it an issue. Even using it without a narrowband filter, I honestly don't find the Chromatic Aberration too much of an issue with photography, nor the occasional visual use. (I primarily do AP.)

There's nothing stellar about it, but it's a good utility scope. Either for widefield, or as a guider. I mount them (I have 2) on larger (6-8" scopes to use as guiders.) and that works quite well. The eyepieces aren't too bad. (Not a huge FOV, but quite serviceable.)

Now there is one thing which deserves to not be used with the telescope: The tripod. Might suit a point and shoot camera. Budget some to get a little better (Even this: https://smile.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Lightweight-Camera-Mount-Tripod/dp/B00XI87KV8/ is significantly better, but if you can something a bit more sturdy is recommended.)

As far as the suggestion of a 130/650, check to see if it's a parabolic mirror or not. Both are made. Since you have the 127EQ, if you make an adapter and put the Travel 70 on the EQ-1 (with a drive), you can do shots not too dissimilar to the one I linked. (I use a EQ-1 from an Astromaster, but if you take it apart, it is the exact same except for color, and a Vixen style dove tail on the AM. And I sometimes use the T70 on it with a DSLR. I don't have any of my pictures uploaded, but I've got some good ones.)

^1 EXOS-2 mount with OnStep, Nikon D5300 DSLR (full spectrum), Ekos/INDI and 7nm Orion H-Alpha filter. (Which cost used ~550 USD, and also had a scope 8" f/4 with it, except for the filter, which was new.)

Alright, here's a few simple things. Nothing very exciting, but I wouldn't go without them now.

The basestations are suppose to have like a 50k hour lifespan. Still, I had one of the rotors die and replaced under warranty. Now I use a remote switch like this one to conveniently shut down the lighthouses when not in use and extend their life. Also helpful if the IR interferes with anything.

Similarly, unplugging and plugging in the vive controllers to charge every use could eventually wear out the usb sockets. I use a pair of magnetic usb adapters similar to these which takes away that wear and tear, plus they are reversible and just snap in place super easy.

My basestations are screwed into the wall, but I also have a pair of these clamps which have been very useful and versatile when I've taken my Vive to demo at friends places, or the office. Makes it quick and easy to clamp them to a bookcase, curtain rod, door frame, drop ceiling grid, or whatever. Much better than the giant wobbly stands many people go for.

My favorite low cost photography gift idea is the Ultra Pod. I've only gotten mine somewhat recently but I was looking for a small/low table top tripod that would hold a relatively heavy lens, and this one can also be strapped to railings and such. It's got a really smart design so it can safely handle much more weight than any other small tripod like this I've seen. It also packs down to very small. AND it's super affordable.

https://www.amazon.com/Pedco-UltraPod-Lightweight-Camera-Tripod/dp/B000ANCPNM

Haha, glad you're enjoying it. If you don't want a permanent mounting solution in the living room walls, you can consider picking up a few photography light stands like these: https://www.amazon.com/Fovitec-Lighthouse-Compatible-Adjustable-Carrying/dp/B01MFG14ZT/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1537591613&sr=8-3&keywords=vr+stand

(note, these have an adjustable top for the sensors to screw into, some stands don't which makes them hard to adjust for vr use)
They'll give you a portable solution with enough height, and you can take them down easy when you need your living room back.

Of course, you can always go the route of using wall mounts to attach them directly, depends how far you want to go with it.

Oh and don't forget to check out the free content it came with, robo recall, lucky's tale, marvel powers, dead & buried, echo arena, medium, and anything else as well. Superhot is another top pick, as well as lone echo- theres a lot to see!

Totally. Viewing the photo at full size, the carbonation caused an amazing number of micro droplets that somehow got captured by the camera. All in all, I just got lucky.

For the equipment, it's a Pentax K-70 equipped with a Pentax 50mm f/1.8 Lens. This is set up outside in front of my garage, so lighting wasn't an issue. The background is a piece of (now-ruined) foam core. Tripod is an exceedingly cheap piece of junk I got for free somewhere (I carry around a Pedco UltraPod II most of the time). And I snagged a Peak Design Slide Lite I love after wandering around San Francisco with the absolute-hunk-of-junk Pentax strap for a day.

Those macro shots are absolutely amazing when they turn out right. My patience is… too thin for that sort of thing. :D The pin-pricked Ziploc is a good idea though — I'll have to keep that in mind for future super-cheap shots.

• Anker 40W 5-port USB charger (~$26). Great for charging multiple devices, and it'll act like like a 12W charger for the iPhone 6/6 plus (faster charging) and iPad. It also comes in white if you need to color-coordinate. :)
  
  
• Most people don't need one, but this Anker 10000mAh USB battery (~$26) is pretty nice, too. It's about the same size as an iPhone 6, but about 0.65" thick. While Anker has a wide range of batteries, I like this one because of the size, relative flatness (some batteries seem bulbous), and slightly recessed power button (some are raised, which makes accidental pressings easier in a backpack).
  
  However, while this can charge an iPhone multiple times, it will not fully charge an iPad (maybe 0.8 of a full iPad charge?).
  
  
• Gorillapod stand (~$16). Useful for portable time-lapse videos.
  
  (I have no connection to Anker, other than as a customer.)
  
  Edit: fixed link to battery

Full details are in the video description but here's what it is:

Blackvue DR650S 2 Channel dashcam for primary video and rear video.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AMKOCEM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Canon Digital Elph 190.

https://www.amazon.com/Canon-PowerShot-Optical-Built-Wi-Fi/dp/B019UDHZ50/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1503359462&sr=1-3&keywords=canon+digital+elph+190

Camera Clip Mount for the Canon:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Y4FVLYG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Contrary to what I said in the video, I didn't end up using the audio from the phone but instead used the audio track from the Canon camera because it sounded clearer and had less noise than the earbud headset.

I also added in the rear channel from the Blackvue, although you may notice that the sync drifts a bit by the end of the video. The main video and the instrument display/audio should be in pretty good sync, though.

The various sources were stitched together in Adobe Premiere Pro CC 2017 and encoded into H.264 1080P video using the bundled Adobe Media Encoder CC 2017. I'm not an expert in this area by any means, but I was able to put all this together in a short amount of time and without having to go outside the apps to figure out how to do any of it. It was all pretty intuitive.

I'm not sure if I'll add in the rear channel video on the next one. Blackvue doesn't do a great job of recording in perfect sync between the two channels, it's extra work (especially to sync them), and I'm not sure it adds much value but I'm curious to hear feedback.

My fiancé buys me neat (and cheap!) camera gear every year for christmas, so far I've gotten:

• Gary Fong Puffer $18.99 (a flash diffuser)
  
• Targus Battery Grip $25.98 (this is somewhat camera specific)
  
• Hot shoe spirit level $5 (this is cheap as hell and really cool!)
  
• Canon Monopod $34.95 (I have the Monopod 100 but it's no longer available. These are great for when a tripod is too bulky and sturdy enough to use as a light walking stick)
  
• Dolica Tripod $39.99 (Great prosumer tripod, not a pro tripod though)
  
• Lens cap keeper $1.91 (sticks to any lens cap and then attaches to the lens body to stop the lens cap from falling off)
  
  All of these things are pretty awesome for me, a serious hobbyist with a Nikon D5000 DSLR.
  
  Having said that, what I want for Christmas is:
  
  
• 52mm Neutral Density Filters ($31.99) and 62mm Neutral Density Filters ($42.99), these are the same set for both my lenses, they let you do longer exposures under brighter light conditions. I want them for a shoot in early December though so will probably buy them before that myself ;)
  
• A gradiated ND filter ($11.99), for the same reasons as above but only for one half of the exposure, with a gradient transition
  
• Panoramic Image tripod head ($16.95) for creating seamless panoramas
  
  Hopefully this helps!

I have not done a lot of astrophotography, but for sure you will need a decent tripod. You may be able to get one from amazon for cheap, since the t2i is not that heavy you do not need a really fancy one. also I will recommend you to install magic lantern in your camera (is free so it fits well with the budget). It will allow you to record exposures of more than 30 seconds or do a series of long exposure shots for star trailing shots. http://www.magiclantern.fm/

The alternative to magic lantern would be an intervalometer, but those are expensive.


Edit: This is the tripod I am using with a Canon 6D http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001D60LG8/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1409799757&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40 it works well, some parts feel a little plasticky but I have used for over a year in rough conditions and still works well.

Perhaps not what you're looking for as this UltraPod II is small, but it is sturdy and strong enough to easily support a DSLR camera with a speedlite mounted, and it fits in my bag very well. Here's a video review, and here you can find the included instructions. I don't dare to share with you the large tripod I have, because I rarely use it and honestly is light but not sturdy, and it has slided from time to time on slippery floors. Protip: I have noticed that using UltraPod it is easier for me to handle the camera when shooting videos, by simply mounting the camera on it but without opening its legs, as if it were a steadycam-thing.

I bought a Benro monopod with an S2 head and would consider it one of the best investments I've ever made!

That being said, I'd say a tripod would actually be a better investment for you considering the stuff you want to do if you could only choose one. Monopods are great when you're behind the camera, but I wouldn't trust one to hold up a camera unless I was right there to make sure it doesn't fall. It can work, but it isn't worth the risk.

Since you didn't specify an exact number, I'll suggest what I own, a $135 Benro Monopod and a $46.94 Dolica tripod. The beauty of this combo is they both use 3/8 inch mounts, so you can use the head from the monopod (which is very smooth for the price) on the tripod as well. Its a quality combo for under $200.

Hope this helps!

I've accumulated sundry tripods over the years, mainly when they are deeply discounted. I'm wondering if I'm out of my league here. I would like to try and pick up some extra money doing family shots for friends and, eventually, small events like birthday parties. I'm pretty content with my XTi, and don't plan to upgrade until my skill level surpasses its capabilities.

I really like this one. It is within my budget and I think a good fit for my needs. I have this one which works okay, but I was looking to up my game a bit.

Your advice is very much appreciated. Hopefully, I'll be upgrading all my gear if I can make a little money shooting.

I was in a rush to buy a tripod and needed one quickly for the lunar eclipse so I bought the targus tg-p60t for $50 from walmart. It seems reasonably steady and I shot some decent timelapses, but for $50, I was wondering if I could buy something better online.

I've got a couple questions


What do you guys think about the dolica gx600b200?

The dolica has a ball head mount. For general photography (and timelapses) is this better than the pan tilt on the targus? Researching online, I found many people tend to like ball heads better, but what do you think?

Are there any other used options or new stuff I should be looking at? Is there a specific used tripod that is a good deal? I am aware that the normal budget for a good tripod is $150 at minimum, but, as a college student, that is way out of the budget.

Links to both tripods

http://www.amazon.com/Dolica-GX600B200-Proline-60-Inch-Aluminum/dp/B004XC3GWU

http://www.amazon.com/Targus-Panhead-Bubble-60-Inch-TG-NI200/dp/B007REQU9W/

I have the [Dolica 62 inch Proline] (http://www.amazon.com/Dolica-AX620B100-62-Inch-Proline-Tripod/dp/B001D60LG8/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top). I'm a student so cost was my first concern. I got it for $40 but right now it's $50 on Amazon. It's lightweight which can make it feel not so sturdy but I haven't had any problems with it, and if you check out the Amazon reviews, they're mostly positive. Hope it helps. I don't recommend getting tripods for any cheaper than this, they're really easy to break/topple over.

Just FYI those spiked feat 90% of the time are retractable by rotating the rubber "foot" (don't know what else to call that) that surrounds the spike part.

I have two 70Ds and as my stationary's and an A7sii as my A cam as well and I use these for my 70ds: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NOGR0A?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

I would never use these tripods as my primary because of the head style but they work great for stationary. I also sometimes use them to hold my audio recorder or use both to stabilize my slider. I got them on sale as an Amazon daily deal for $95 though.. so..

If you want another relatively inexpensive video head that Raveli is great value: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00139W0XM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

I have 4 sensors, each mounted on top of 7'6" DIY stands made out of cheap 5'9" Ikea floor lamps..2 lamps per stand, each in it's own corner. The 8' long stock cables of the sensors only have a few inches worth left over when mounted on the stands, so extensions are a must no matter where you position them. I use the 'Monoprice 15-Feet USB 3.0 Extension Cables' from Amazon, with the sensor in the far corner needing 2 cables to reach the stand. This gives me a 10'x10' area, with an actual playspace of 7'x7'. I also shelled out for a Startech 4 port USB3.0 PCI card recommended on the Oculus blog. The sensors on USB3.0 use a lot of power, so you'll need to connect either a SATA power adapter or a molex power adapter to the PCI card...if you go that route. I haven't had any issues whatsoever, completely glitch free. I used the Sensor Bounds app in Oculus to make sure the sensor beams covered my play area high enough, as well as covering the corners closest to the stands. The beams aren't 90 degrees, so the higher the top of the beam, the less the corner gets covered by the lower part of the beam. It takes a few minutes, but it helps to completely cover the entire play area.

​

Btw...the best part of my DIY stands...they only take up 10" squared. Tripods are at least 2' squared. I considered microphone stands, but they only extend 5' or so. Nowhere near tall enough.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-15-Feet-Female-Active-Extension/dp/B00AA0U08M

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Express-SuperSpeed-Dedicated-Channels/dp/B00HJZEA2S

https://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/60416176/

https://www.amazon.com/CM01-Camera-Digital-Recorder-Adapter/dp/B001GWCC4I

Bring the telephoto for sure if you want wildlife shots. And you'll probably want the 18-55 for wider landscape stuff. I have a 50mm lens that is really nice, but I don't like it so much in the outdoors because I shoot on a cropped sensor, and I find it's not as wide as I would like for wide stuff, and not as tight as I'd like for tight stuff. I don't really know a better way to phrase that...

Tripod is good for night photography but not entirely necessary. I do lot's of short hikes and I've gotten away with setting the camera on rocks and such. But if it's lightweight and you want to do a lot of night stuff then it will make your life much easier. They have these mini tripods with flexible legs that are great for wrapping around trees and such. They're much lighter and less awkward to carry than a full tripod.

Hello :-)

As /u/sflamel wrote -> For hand-held, <=10x magnification is recommended.

20x isn't overly high, so you can probably get away with any camera tripod.

• Cheap tripods 1 2 - Random links. These are not very rigid. I have a cheap one somewhat similar like these, and it works, even with my smaller spotting scope. But if you invest a bit more, they will be of noticeably better build quality.
  
  
• Binocular/Tripod adapter 1 - Random link, you can get them cheaper off ebay; 2^(YMMV/Long shipping times)
  
  Another alternative could be a mono-pod. 12345. Monopods are better for lower magnifications though; Also see this forum topic.
  
  The deluxe solution is THIS of course ;-)
  
   
  
  In the summer, when the ground isn't cold, you can also lay down and just rest them against your head.
  
  With these binoculars you'll going to be able to see the Gallilean moon's of Jupiter, Saturn will be a bit elongated 'dot', and of course many star clusters and a bunch of nebulae and galaxies will be visible as faint glow.
  
  Have fun!
  
  //edit: Added links

I love this gorillapod flexi-tripod. I had a friend who had one of these and you can get really good shots in strange angles and nooks with this thing. It's great for those low-light situations where shutter speed has to be slowed, or for shots where it would be hard to hold it with my hand or a regular tripod.

Thanks for the contest!

To offer a counter point...

I have a similar good deal / high amazon rating tripod sitting in my closet right now. My thinking was that it holds the camera still so you can take a picture, why would I need something expensive? However after receiving my cheap tripod and using it a few times I knew I had just waisted $30 and started researching better options.

My issues were with long 20 sec+ low iso night shots which I happen to enjoy. I couldn't get anything over 5-10 sec to look sharp even with a remote shutter release, mirror lockup, and weighting the tripod down with my camera bag. Maybe I was doing something wrong, but after I switched to a much more stable tripod my issues went away.

I ended up going with the Manfrotto 055XPROB legs and 488RC2 Midi Ball Head which solved my sharpness issues with the added benefit of a much quicker setup and some cool macro options.

tl;dr I'm all for saving money, buying my lenses and bodies used, etc. but I tried to save money on a tripod and it didn't work out well.

I'm a bit in your same situation. I'm going to Iceland for 12 days and going to try and shoot a ton of landscapes with my Canon 60D and Tokina 11-16mm Ultra Wide angle (uses 77mm filters). Here's what I got on a budget from a little digging on Amazon.com:

Tiffen 77mm Circular Polarizer: $144; on sale for $20!

B+W 10 Stop Neutral Density filter: $252; on sale for $100

Tiffen 77mm Neutral Density 0.9 Filter: $99; on sale for $25

Step-up and Step-down rings let you use your pricey filters on your other lenses; saving you lots of $$$!
Fotodiox 7 Metal Step Up Ring Set, Anodized Black Metal 49-52mm, 52-55mm, 55-58mm, 58-62mm, 62-67mm, 67-72mm, 72-77mm: $13.49

Fotodiox 7 Metal Step-Down Ring Set, Anodized Black Metal. 77-72mm, 72-67mm, 67-62mm, 62-58mm, 58-55mm, 55-52mm, 52-49mm: $14.60

Pedco UltraPod II Lightweight Camera Tripod: $16.67 instead of a $100+ Gorillapod

You can go super cheap/artsy and use welding glass as a ND filter: $6 There's lots of easy tutorials on how to fix the color tint of the glass online.

Travel and photography are both amazing yet expensive hobbies. I hope my little list helps you out by saving you a little $ on the photo side; letting you have more $ on the travel side to do and see more... thus getting more amazing shots!

Might I also suggest something like this little tripod so that she can get good shots even in low light: http://www.amazon.com/Pedco-UltraPod-Lightweight-Camera-Tripod/dp/B000ANCPNM

I like the ultrapod better than something like a gorilla pod because it more easily adapts to heavier cameras, and still gives amazing flexibility in positioning. Also, it's under $20.

• 5.11 Tactical MOAB 6
  
  Sony A6000
  
  Four Lens(18-55, 55-210, 28mm 2.8, 55mm 1.7)
  
  Charger, Portable battery pack
  
  Sharpie, Pen
  
  2 Extra SD Cards
  
  Flashlight Energizer Hardcase this is a lil beast and puts out a surprising amount of light
  
  Oh and a Makeup brush my buddies gave me a lot of shit buying those haha(seriously if you dont have one in the bag youre wrong, theyre cheaper than a "Camera Brush" Ive found them to be higher quality than a lot Ive come across for the price and you can get so many shapes and sizes. Ive Got a small brush it says its a concealer brush on the side and was well worth the couple bucks.)
  
  
• Maxpedition Jumbo Versipack
  
  Canon T3i
  
  3 Lens (Kit lens, 70-300, Nifty Fifty)
  
  Extra batteries(3 I think because Im terrible at remembering to charge)
  
  Gorilla Pod(tripod)
  
  Extra SD
  
  Pen/Pencil
  
  The Bottle holder on this bag is perfect as a holster when I have the 70-300 on the camera
  
  
  
  
  Those are my two main bags as of right now, and if I want I can throw the A6k in with the canon or vice versa so if I want both on me I have the ability. That ability to holster the canon gives the Versipack a slight lead in capability if I want to carry both. Oh and I carry an instax printer in one or the other most the time just because its a fun item to have and be able to print from.
  
  
  
  
  I like to roadtrip and hike a lot so these bags being as small as they are, are perfect to grab throw in the car and go. Both are water resistant(versipack has an add. water protection flap) so Im not worried to much about rain and I just cut some foam to put in the bottom of the main pouches for a lil extra protection against bumps.
  
  When I say I hike I mean if I see a spot I think would be good for a snap and its on top of this ridge/hill Ive now become an amateur mountain climber and Im getting up there so I need something I can quickly sling over my back and start scrambling.
  
  I really like the sling bag style because lets say Im halfway up and realize that where Im at right then would be a cool shot I can hang on with one hand and then with one free hand i can swing the bag to my front grab the camera and have it back on my back without ever taking the bag off or any possibility of dropping the bag and watching it tumble 100ft down. Then I get home and realize all I got a picture of was a trees leaves. Plus the sling bags give you a bit of leeway when youre out and about and a place doesnt allow backpacks but if you keep it over one shoulder the places Ive been in havent batted an eye. (Hahah if a woman can carry a purse right?)
  
  TLDR; 5.11 Tactical MOAB 6(sony A600), and a Maxpedition Jumbo Versipack(Canon T3i). I hike a lot.

First things that come to my mind:

1. This tripod is so absolutely fantastic, and cheap!
   
2. A fast lens or two. Either a zoom at f/2.8, or my suggestion would be a prime (50mm or 85mm -- or both) at f/1.4 or f/1.8. These primes will yield incredible results, and are reasonably priced.
   
3. A flash. Something that can be used off or on camera. Something you can slave/master would be best.
   
4. A polarizer for your best lens(es). Polarizers make a huge difference when taking landscape photos or photos with a lot of reflections.
   
5. One of these two backpacks could make being mobile so much easier! This one or this one. I have owned the first for a couple years now -- taken it all around the world, don't have a single complaint.
   
   Hope some of these ideas help.

So I only know a few of these.

1. I'm not sure. I only use hdmi to hdmi
   
   
2. If you don't want to cause too much damage, my best suggestion would be to get 2 tripods with heads that can angle downward. In my own room I had to re-position the lighthouses multiple times, which meant multiple holes in the walls.
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HNZJLG4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012FTXOW4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   Are just the tripods I use now.
   
   
3. 2m x 2m is enough for roomscale, however I don't know if I would consider it a decent roomscale experience, I myself run a 3.8m x 3m space and I even feel like that is pretty small. I also cleared out all the furniture possibly blocking lighthouses, so idk about that.
   
   
4. Your computer monitor/TV will always display the view that you see as well, even if a game does not open a separate window, steam VR has a setting to 'show mirror' so other people can see what you see.
   
   Other than that, hope you get the answers you want. Cheers! (The Vive is awesome though!)

> one thing I've learned from by cheap gear is, it breaks and it's not worth it

This is the truth. I've wasted more money on cheap gear than I would have spent buying quality gear in the first place.

• the least expensive tripod you can get that isn't junk is the [$250CDN Ravelli AVTP Professional] (http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00139W0XM/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=15121&creative=390961&creativeASIN=B00139W0XM&linkCode=as2&tag=hybrcamerevo-20). It will give you smooth tilts and pans and is built like a tank and will last forever. I own this tripod and highly recommend it.
  
  
• get a [Rode Videomic for $200CDN] (http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00CAE8PM4/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=15121&creative=390961&creativeASIN=B00CAE8PM4&linkCode=as2&tag=hybrcamerevo-20) - great sound quality for the price - and the new Rycote Lyre shock mount has eliminated the flimsy (and noisy) shock mount on the original Videomic.
  
  
• after you shoot for a while with the kit lens and your 50mm, you will know what lenses to get. My guess is that you'll need something wider and faster (e.g., the [$680CDN Tokina 11-16 f2.8] (http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00E5N765U/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=15121&creative=390961&creativeASIN=B00E5N765U&linkCode=as2&tag=hybrcamerevo-20))
  
  
• for lighting, I recommend you invest in a [$279CDN F&V ring light] (http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00AY0J4OY/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=15121&creative=390961&creativeASIN=B00AY0J4OY&linkCode=as2&tag=hybrcamerevo-20), put it on a light stand and shoot through it. At some point in the future you can buy a rail mount and put it on your camera rig. Ring lights make your subject look good, are compact, run cool and they are enormously flexible. You can even turn them into soft boxes. I own this light and it has been a great investment.
  
  Yes, if you add it all up, it's a lot of money - but you will spend less in the long run.
  
  Good luck!
  
  

I got this one on amazon for about $120 for a C100. Looks like it's not available anymore on amazon, but it can hold up to 27 lbs and is an amazing value for the quality. It's a great tripod.

Hi Reddit!

Tripod. Oh man, it's tough to choose one. I thought about buying one for a long time, but could never decide which one is better.

Some time ago I came across this: Dolica AX620B100 62-Inch Proline Tripod and Ball Head... but cost of importing it to Poland is as much as tripod itself! (It would be around $85). So I looked into some local shops, but each got some weird tripods that cost more than $100 and didn't offer so much flexibility as Dolica. And they weighed a ton.

Today I'm looking at Hahnel Triad 40 Lite and I was thinking... should I import Dolica, which costs less (incl shipping) and is lighter, or go for Hahnel?

Or (and this is why I'm posting over here, to you, fellow Redditors)... Are there any good tripods under $100, available in Europe (preferable amazon.co.uk) and that could do this: IMAGE?

EDIT: It doesn't need to support configuration form the last image, it would just be a nice bonus ;)

http://www.wikihow.com/Create-an-Inexpensive-Photography-Lightbox

That's the easiest way to build the kind of light box you need for good product shots.

You can get a very inexpensive tripod ( http://www.amazon.com/50-Inch-Camera-Tripod-Smartphone-Mount/dp/B00SHJPMEU/ref=zg_bs_499306_7 if you want to use your phone).

Then you basically just need to decrease the shutter speed as much as possible to get a good shot. Turn off flashes and everything else. The light should come from the lamps on either side of the light box. I think you might be able to do that with your smartphone + an app or two. Otherwise, you can borrow or buy a very inexpensive DSLR -- even this will work fine.

After that, it's pretty straightforward. No flash, wide open aperture, good focus, and a long expose and you'll have some really great photos of your product.

FWIW, I have a tripod that's essentially the same thing as that one (literally the same tripod, but under a different brand) and they're great for the price. The clasp/mount is a bit of a pain with some larger phones (I could barely get my buddy's Note 4 to sit in it), but it should be a fine fit for the G4.

If you want a standard non-phone tripod, the Amazon Basics tripod is great for ~$20 when paired with the mount from a cheap selfie stick you can get from any store like this.

Tripods: portability vs. stability?

I just got as a gift a Manfroto Compact Action Tripod while on Amazon Prime Day I ordered the Amazon Basics Tripod

Basically my question is, we're going out west for a trip to the national parks in Utah. The Manfroto is noticeably smaller & lighter, but the last segment on its legs seem flimsy, but with my camera on it (Canon T2i) it seems stable. The Amazon Basics, is heavier and bigger, but more stable.

My goal for these are for landscape and star shooting. Realistically its probable, I'll only use them for the stars and not bring them on our day hikes. I'd appreciate any comments or opinions on one vs. the other. Thanks.

Hi, I would avoid that scope if I were you, it's liable to turn you off astronomy more than pull you into it.

The most affordable worthwhile scope out there at the moment (imho) is the AWB Onesky.

If your budget doesn't amount to that much, I would recommend finding either a pair of decent 10x50 binoculars attached to a cheap tripod with a Barska Adapter

Alternatively you might be able to find a used 4 or 6" dobsonian for under $150.

The best beginners book on backyard astronomy is definitely Nightwatch, and it should be followed by the more in depth Turn Left at Orion

Hope that helps!

I use a Domke F-5XB which I put in my main bag, in the event that I get made to check my backpack I just take it out. It's also small enough to carry around all day and it doesn't look so much like a camera bag that it sticks out. I've always wanted a bag that zips or pops into the backpack but I've not managed to find anything quite like what I want. I usually get a Panasonic GX85 two primes and a zoom in it. I think you could put the Sony Body and two primes in it fairly comfortably. I use a Pedco Ultrapod as my travel tripod but I don't use it that much, it just sits in the bottom of my backpack. I like it because it's compact and it can also be attached to things using the strap likes trees etc.

This might sound silly, but if you have a newer iphone you can take pretty good pictures with it using the self timer. I use a wine glass, just set your phone in it, it is the perfect size that allows the camera part of the phone to show out the top and stabilizes the phone while it shoots.

You can also buy tripods for your phone.

The newer iPhones (such as the 5s & 6) have pretty nice camera quality so that would definitely be doable. I would recommend this tripod: http://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Universal-Smartphone-eCostConnection-Microfiber/dp/B00SHJPMEU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1452658369&sr=8-3&keywords=iphone+tripod

It has really good reviews and I would recommend it!

Cheap and light would be a basic aluminum kit which is not very sturdy but only costs $24.

Expensive and light would be carbon fiber which is extremely sturdy, like this Manfrotto for $350.

Cheap and affordable while still being sturdy would require a better aluminum tripod like this Vanguard Alta tripod kit with head for under $200.

Hope this helps!

I'd recommend getting a phone mount with a tripod screw hole so you can use any tripod. I have the Joby GripTight mount and though it is more expensive than some of the other offerings it is about the only one I could find that would work for the Lumia 925 (it straddles the lock button and opens wide enough - a lot of the cheaper options grip the phone in the middle, which would hit the lock button, or only open wide enough for the smaller iPhone). It grips the phone securely and feels like a quality item that justifies the higher price.

As for tripod recommendations, the Velbon DF-61 is very good value for money though being a full-size tripod may be a bit on the large size to carry with you on holiday. I have heard good things about the GorillaPod (and that particular item seems to come with the GripTight mount mentioned earlier) though have not used it myself.

The AmazonBasics dual-handle video tripod is very highly recommended around here. It's quite hard to find, but every once in a while it goes on sale. If you can wait until it's available, it's got a very nice head and it's pretty sturdy for a great price.

This likely doesn't apply to you, but if you're a musician and you have boom mic stands sitting around, they are made to fold up and be portable and work great as lighthouse stands if you buy a mic stand camera adapter from Amazon. Why buy dedicated light house stands!

I recommend this one: https://www.amazon.com/CM01-Camera-Digital-Recorder-Adapter/dp/B001GWCC4I

...but there are cheaper options down to $4.

These are the ones I went with- looks like they are on sale now. Granted, I don't have anything to compare them with... But I've noticed the lighthouses vibrate, which can reverb down these stands and make some noise. Nothing too bad but I did want to point it out. Other then that, they're great- nice and tall, they come with ball heads which allow you to angle the lighthouse just how your want it, and they come with a carrying bag.

Fovitec - 2X 7'6" VR Gaming Lighthouse Mount Stand Kit - [HTC Vive and Oculus Rift Compatible][Adjustable Ball Heads][Includes Carrying Bag]
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MFG14ZT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_IIX7BbK43Z9NP

Please note that I do not have my Vive yet (still waiting) but I have been addicted to this reddit and my advice is just from what I've read on here.

The stands will help. Is it a tripod? Keep in mind you might also need to buy a ballhead adapter for the top so that you can angle them downward as much as you want. You'll just want them to be 1/4" like this one: http://www.amazon.com/EXMAX-Tripod-Camera-Camcorder-Bracket/dp/B012FTXOW4

Regarding sweat, I ordered one of these, but haven't received it yet. You'll be waiting for a month or so to have it shipped: https://vrcover.com/product/htc-vive-pre-vr-cover-waterproof-for-exhibitions-sport/

As for watching 360 videos, I believe you need a program that can handle it. Virtual Desktop (on Steam) has a way to do it. If you visit their Steam store page, their video is kinda long (but worth it to see all the features), but in the second half they demo being able to copy and paste a youtube URL of a 360 video directly into it.

Besides Steam directly, the Humble Bundle store is a good place to get some more games. Their Spring sale is going on now and literally ends in less than a day so check out this reddit post for some games you may be interested in before it's too late: https://www.reddit.com/r/Vive/comments/4jw21f/humble_spring_sale_vive_compatible_games/

So overall, connecting it and getting up and ready went pretty smooth? There seem to be so many posts for errors, need of help, etc. it makes me worry what kind of trouble to expect once it gets here.

My other question was, you said for Audioshield "no lag at all, even when streaming". What part was streaming? I don't have the game yet so I just wanted to clarify if it wasn't a locally downloaded game or what.

Also, my gf is also always the cold one. Especially her damn feet. She will put them up against me in the bed and damn those initial 10 seconds of helping warm her up suck. She's lucky I love her :P

For newbies I suggest the Dolica a lot. It's not going to be your forever tripod, but it's got some features and if you're kind to it it shouldn't cause any problems. It'll give you something decent to use while you figure out exactly what you need in a longer term tripod.

If you want to spend more money and go with something probably longer term, I like this Vangaurd especially for occasional video. You can extend the center column and tilt it 90 degrees and swing it to do sweeping faux-slider shots. It's also much heavier, taller and sturdier. You'll also need a ballhead for it, this one is pretty impeccable. But I've read the cheaper ones aren't so bad either. This one used to be on amazon, but I can't find it right now.

But all in all, I'd go with the Dolica. Use it and figure out what it can't do that you wish it could, then pick your more costly tripod based on that.

For pictures, I'd suggest removing #2, 4 and 7. The tone and facial expression in them is very negative, even if you weren't meaning it that way. And they don't align with how upbeat your profile is. The remainder are good and show off what you look like, interesting hobbies, etc. If you want to add a few more photos, have a friend take some. Or invest in a cheap tripod from amazon that you can use with your phone and a bluetooth remote. It's much better than selfies or pictures where you're holding your phone in front of your face.

As for your profile, I'd change the first section. It really doesn't tell anything specific about you or hook the reader in to want to know more. It doesn't capture a good picture of who you are. Think: how would people describe you? What type of personality do you have? What are some things you value in life? How are you different than all the other women on OKC? What makes you yourself?

The second paragraph would be great under the 'You should message me if' section. When a list of wants is thrown in as the second thing someone reads, it can be a turn-off. Let that section be about you.

Another thing to look out for is how often you use words like 'love', 'great', 'passion', etc. I'm definitely guilty of this too. But when you overuse those words and everything is great, awesome, spectacular, it loses its effect. There are other ways to start your sentences and denote passion.

There are a lot of good one-liners that add some color, and I'd advise keeping them in, but overall I don't get a good sense of who you are. I get a sense of the things you are into, but not you.

Edit: Have you changed your search settings to look at other women's profiles from your same area and in your age range? That can give you a few ideas of ways to tweak yours and how they approach writing about themselves.

Yeah, that'll come with an 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6. That's a good zoom range and you'll come to find what focal lengths your like shooting at, then you can buy faster prime lenses like the Nikon 35mm f/1.8 or the Nikon 50mm f/1.8. If you want a long lens, the best affordable one is the Nikon 70-300 f/4.5-6.3 VR (VR being Vibration Reduction, aka image stabilization), I wouldn't recommend the version without VR as it only save you $50 and it's well worth it.

For tripods, I'd definitely suggest spending a little more, and getting something like the Vanguard VEO 2 264AB for $160, which I personally have. You probably couldn't go wrong with any of their tripods, but heavier tripods tend to be more stable for longer exposures. I don't have any personal experience, but a lot of people suggest the Manfrotto brand.

If you absolutely can't wait to save up some money, the Dolica GX600B200 Proline will do a decent job at $50.

Thank you very much. :)

You can still get a decent shot at F4. Definitely better than what you posted. I recommend using a tripod too. All I used for this shot (though I have a good tripod) is a Pedco Ultrapod II. I keep it in my bag at all times.

Neewer makes a Carbon Fiber tripod with a solid weigh tolerance, lightweight, strong, sturdy, and only about 110 bucks. Don't waste your money on a Manfrotto or any of that, you really don't need it unless you're doing video, and even then, a Ravelli video tripod is going to do you better.

http://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Lightweight-Portable-Monopod-Capacity/dp/B00NSEKEMO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1454098226&sr=8-1&keywords=neewer+carbon+fiber+tripod

(Neewer's also doubles as a monopod, the head is replaceable, and they sell a multitude of different heads for different uses. And yes, that head is a ball head.)

http://www.amazon.com/Ravelli-AVTP-Professional-Camera-Tripod/dp/B00139W0XM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1454098265&sr=8-1&keywords=ravelli+video+tripod

(Ravelli's uses the bottom-screw ballhead that video pods are known for, and should be compatible with Manfrotto plates, if you happen to have spent too much money in the past. Only really useful for video shooters.)

I went with this dolica one and I haven't had any problems with it so far. It's one of the cheapest ball head tripods I could find but I think the quality actually seems pretty good. The carrying case is nice to have as well.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004XC3GWU

• The center post on cheap $15-30 clones like this are 1" wide
  
  
• The even cheaper versions like this are around 3/4"
  
  
• I have a nicer $150 range tripod with legs/center column diameters of 3/4"
  
  3/4" to 1" range - give or take - will be a good estimate for intro level tripods, but it looks like it'll vary around here from model to model. B&H looks like it tries to provide a "leg diameter" stat in the Specs section. Maybe browse through a few popular models at various price ranges.

We don't use a lens clip, just a stock iPhone.

We use this specific clamp: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009GHYMB6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_GOuHwbDNV9VXX

Usually my friend will have a small ladder or stepping stool to get the angle facing down just right. I recommend setting the clamp a little bit higher than the top of your reach (to get tosses of serves on the near side), but you'll need to play around a little to get optimal footage.

We normally record the warm up and check the angle of the video before starting the set. :)

I'm gonna offer my two cents here, I hope this helps:

Here is pretty much exactly what I would buy with that amount of money:

1. G7 with 14-42 Kit Lens - 497 on Adorama w/ a $50 gift card. here.
   
   
2. use that $50 to get yourself a couple of 64GB Transcend Class 10 SD Cards. here.
   
   
3. For a tripod, this Amazon Basics fluid head is a great value at $65, but frequently goes on sale for $35-$45. here.
   
   
4. Low light on the kit lens sucks, you can solve that by grabbing some FD lenses on eBay. I'd go for 50mm 1.4 and 28mm 2.8 as a start. Each can be had for ~$50.
   
   
5. To use those lenses on your G7, you'll need a simple, cheap adapter. Find that here.
   
   
6. For audio, you can get surprisingly good sound out of this cheap, cold shoe mountable shotgun right here.
   
   I believe that totals a little less than $700 for an enviable amount of non garbage, budget friendly equipment. You can even add some lighting and still stay under that bundle price.

Thanks /u/jadfrog /u/pgh2atl and /u/NukedCranium for your answers, I think I found a pretty good solution yesterday with my old mic stand, I just need a 10$ adapter and I should be good :-) I'll also move the screen back a bit when my CV1 arrives...

Forgive me if this sounds dumb, I'm the last person to know anything about binoculars and tripods lol. The adapter will be the same thread size as the official Nikon one, correct? Also, that tripod looks perfect. Besides the height and the included monopod, could I also get away with this? Either way I'm find, I just don't think I need the added monopod. Thanks again for all your help!

I purchased https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MFG14ZT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The bag they come with is quite helpful as I put my mouse and keyboard and cables in the same bag.

They are lightweight but feel pretty good (I've bought camera tripods in the past that had paper thin aluminum)
I only use this when I take my Vive out to a friends house or if I'm temporarily setting up the vive in another room. 99% of the time I use my vive its on my wall mounts.

Sony A6000. $698 on Amazon, compact, interchangeable lenses if you want them, full manual control if you want it, great image quality. Perfect travel camera that will serve you well when you get back too.

Maybe throw in a Gorillapod Flexible Tripod for shots of the stars/landscapes/yourself. You can use it like a regular tripod or wrap it around posts, branches, whatever.

I'm really curious what's wrong. I have two lighthouses "mounted" temporarily based on what I happened to have at home the day the Vive arrived. (I should really do something more permanent, though being a rental apartment I'm dithering about using the wall mounts. I know how to spackle and paint, but because of the layout, one lighthouse would have to be mounted to a masonry exterior wall, not sheetrock, and there's no good coverup for that AFAIK....)

Anyway, one lighthouse is quite solidly attached by a medium-small Jobi GorillaPod grabbing the top corner of a bookcase, pointed down as it's supposed to. The other lighthouse is attached to the pole of a a very lightweight aluminum light stand (it came came with a light kit I bought). The latter is the one that can see me best when I do seated stuff like Elite: Dangerous (though I run both lighthouses all the time). I was a little worried about it, because mounting it directly on the pole without even a camera mount (the threading of equipment like that is standard and matches the threadings on the lighthouse bottom and back), it would necessarily be pointing level, not down. And surely that spindly little thing would be a problem once that motor spun up. I only tried it out of desperation, because the other choice was to go ahead and drill into a rental's masonry wall, not even knowing if my tracking area was going to be any good.

And I have no wobbling at all. Unless somebody bumps the stand (so I need to keep my play area's Chaperone bounds well away from it). Look at that photo of the light stand; my lighthouse is sitting at the top of an aluminum telescoping pole seven feet in the air, five feet from the nearest support that could counteract wobble besides integral stiffness (of which there ain't much). I've looked at it really carefully and the motor causes no wobble at all. If it's wobbling, it's because the pole got nudged or a breeze as someone walked by hit it. That lighthouse is a precision piece of equipment. I've sometimes checked whether it's running by touching it, and I can just barely feel any vibration at all.

So I'm going to take a wild guess: the lighthouse you're having problems with is mounted by its back threads, not its bottom threads, and the mount is a bit loose, so gyroscopic force, not wobble, is causing the mount to act as a spring and oscillate the lighthouse along its vertical axis. Is that the case? If so, then you need to stiffen the mount.

If not, I'd try swapping the two lighthouses and re-running room setup. Does that improve things? (Does the same lighthouse in the position of the old "good" one become the "bad" one?) If so, then you have a defective lighthouse and should call HTC for a replacement.

Please let us know what you find out.

I'm live streaming my upcoming wedding for people who can't make it. I did a ton of research on this, and am doing this for under $100. This is what I'm using:

1 iphone 4S (already own)

1 Edutige mic

1 vista explorer tripod

1 iphone tripod adaptor

I'm using the venue's wireless connection, but I also tested this over 3G and that works fine as well (even though it's a bit slow a little jumpy at times).

I downloaded the ustream app on the iphone (it's called ustream broadcaster and it's free), and I embedded the ustream video on a page on my wedding website (you can see it here).

I then created a new ustream channel just for the wedding, and then linked it up to the ustream app.

I all need to do on the day-of is set up the camera (hook the mic up to the camera, put it on the adaptor, which goes on the tripod), open the ustream app, and hit "record". It will stream right to video window on my website. I tested this out and it really is that easy! It will even let you save the video after.