(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best car amplifier noise filters

What’s your mic setup?

Depending on where the noise is coming from, you can use a ground loop noise isolator to reduce or cut out background noise from components.

I can personally vouch for this working in a duo-stream setup with a stand-alone streaming PC. We have one on each of the mic inputs (ATH-ADG1X headsets) iirc - between each headset and its respective gaming PC, and additionally each headset split to an input on the streaming PC. Overall the setup is kind of a mess, and eventually we’d like to get a good mixer setup to make things simpler, but this sounds decent and has worked better for our sort of unique use-case scenario than anything else thus far.

is there a mic/line option on your interface? maybe it's set to the wrong one... how much input gain do you have dialed on the interface? perhaps it's up too high. those are my thoughts.. i also use a cheap noise isolator from amazon, and it's working perfect over here.

I tried connecting it to the the same outlet as the other station with an extension cord and it still occured. I suppose it must be interference then. Any idea if this'll help?

https://www.amazon.com/RF-Choke-31500-Ferrite-Material/dp/B00XDACVOM/ref=sr_1_8?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1461671439&sr=1-8&keywords=rf+choke

What you describe is probably RFI (Radio Frequency Interference). From radio waves being picked up by the wires from your computer to your speakers. Solutions include:

1. Use balanced (XLR, TRS) connections rather than unbalanced (TS, RCA, etc.)
   
   
2. Add some snap-on ferrite filters around the cables where they enter the powered speakers. For example: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GKBPYB9
   
   
3. Be sure that all the gear is powered from the same circuit. Use a power strip to power the computer, interface, speakers, etc.

Yes, it will work. Get a good ground loop isolator that won't affect sound too much.

Check google maps. Solution were those https://www.amazon.com/RF-Choke-31500-Ferrite-Material/dp/B00XDACVOM/ref=sr_1_8?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1461671439&sr=1-8&keywords=rf+choke

Sorry it's something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Viaky-Noise-Suppressor-Ferrite-Filter/dp/B07V7DGZ5V

They are iron (magnets?) that act as a noise suppressor to keep electronic devices from interfering with each other.

I am thinking something like this may help:

https://www.amazon.com/Holland-MPOE-TM-Filter-Coaxial-Networking/dp/B01KDG41QE/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1522957475&sr=1-1-fkmr0&keywords=rf+noise+filter+coax+75+ohm

https://www.amazon.com/AUCH-20Pcs-Ferrite-Suppressor-Diameter/dp/B016XE2BS0/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8&tag=c24m-20

That being said an EE with a scope would be better at determining what you need in your case as I suspect you are fighting against massive electrical interference.

Yeah it's definitely a possibility. Do you have one of those old USB or VGA cables with the clip on ferrite bead? You can usually pop it off and then tie your cable through it to provide some noise shielding.

stardrift 10-Pack 11mm Diameter Snap on Ferrite Core Bead Choke Ring Cord RFI EMI Noise Suppressor Filter for HDMI DVI VGA Cable Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CDU0D8I/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_4-dZDbC6SRJBE

usb-a to usb-b cable

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a couple of headphone jack adapters

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ground wires if you're dealing with vinyl

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interference suppresion filter clips

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ethernet cable

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and a bunch of these

Ferrite beads.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079QKF2SS/

http://www.electricalbasicprojects.com/ferrite-bead-tutorial-applications-advantages/

Noise filter for a vehicle:

https://www.amazon.com/1st-Source-Passive-Noise-Filter/dp/B002AUHD26

It could be home power related, it could be the cords for your PC, or headset. Some radio signals will perpetrate whatever is unshielded or frayed.

Try these: https://www.amazon.com/20Pcs-Clip-Ferrite-Suppressor-Diameter/dp/B016XE2BS0

/u/Kayos42 can also try noise filter cable rings.

Is this the buzzing noise everyone is talking about on the JBL MKii305p speakers? https://imgur.com/VSoTcre

Will this ground loop noise isolator possibly fix this buzzing issue on my speakers? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N10AQ76/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

As he said ground loop isolator. Or a power conditioner. Power conditioners are a lot more though. They are usually used with high end stereo equipment and instruments like guitars.

I had bad static with line out to aux in on the mix amp gen 4 and this solved it.
https://www.amazon.com/Isolator-Audiophile-Frequency-Without-Distortion/dp/B01N10AQ76/ref=sr_1_6?crid=23OWCEXOMDQ3Q&keywords=ground+loop+isolator&qid=1557551859&s=gateway&sprefix=ground+l%2Caps%2C156&sr=8-6

But i had planned to need it. I may even get one for stream out.

You can stop that. I think Mix 31 is the type of bead you need to block CB. Basically you loop the cables through something like this a bunch of times, like this, close to the speaker.

You need a ground loop isolator likely because when charging the speaker(s) there’s a ac/dc conversion happening. Check this out. It has helped others with same problem. https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Ground-Isolator-Systems-Included/dp/B01L1NP7YI. Some say this ones better https://www.amazon.com/Isolator-Audiophile-Frequency-Without-Distortion/dp/B01N10AQ76/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=3RV5RXTNPJ09E&keywords=krypt+ground+loop+isolator&qid=1555458843&s=gateway&sprefix=krypt+g&sr=8-3&utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app

You are probably using a USB charger with a non-isolated DC-DC converter in it so you have a ground loop between your charger and the radio. If you can find an isolated charger your problem should go away.

Or you can get something like this to break the ground loop instead.

A DAC powered by the USB directly won't help with the noise. You'll either need to run a Toslink connection into your DAC, use a line filter/isolator, or a better DAC that's self powered.

I was running into the same noise issue with my old USB powered DAC and ended up with this line filter before I got my Bifrost: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N10AQ76/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

With my Bifrost, I have 0 noise as it's self powered and has noise filters going on inside of it. Just be aware that isolators remove some frequency along with the noise, but the one I linked completely solved my dirty USB noise problem.

Sorry to confuse you!
Anyway,we find one link for you reference,it is not our store,we can not sure if it can solve your problem or not!please note!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XDACVOM/ref=sxr_pa_click_within_right_2?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=2957865822&pf_rd_r=1GWQS0HRW2C6BE6QY3S0&pd_rd_wg=OUqEh&pf_rd_s=desktop-rhs-carousels&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_w=8Iuo7&pf_rd_i=radio+filter&pd_rd_r=RKD1QV4ZXF5QEPQAA791&psc=1

Does anyone know anything about fixing RF Interference with a Ferrite RF Choke? My Vive has had tracking problems until 7:45, and I've tried everything except this. I'm not sure what I need though. I've seem some recommend this, which I would prefer since it's cheap, however this popular post recommended using 4 others, plus a second link box and cable, which would be $125+.

Would the cheaper choke work? Would I need multiple? How many loops of wire would I need to put through it? The radio tower I believe is messing with me is about 1000 feet away or so. Don't know the frequency it's at, all I know is when it lowers its frequency at sundown(7:45) my Vive works.

Couple of potential issues.

In some cases it's possible to create a ground loop between an audio device and an audio source. So if the sound goes away when your phone is on battery (and not plugged into vehicle power) then this is potentially the issue. They make ground loop isolators for hard-wired audio devices for this (Edit: this isn't your issue)

The other fault is the vehicle alternator is either of poor quality or faulty such that it's sending AC transients (electrical interference) through the power system of the car. This can be somewhat tricky to identify or fix. What vehicle make/model/Year?

Another possible issue is that the vehicle spark plug wires (if equipped) are worn such that it's generating electrical or RF interference.

What I would try is to add an electrical noise filter to the power feed to the cigarette lighter, either make some sort of male/female cigarette lighter connection with a noise filter in-between, or add an add-a-tap fuse holder and power filter at the cigarette lighter fuse on the under-dash fuse panel.

One of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Pipemans-Installation-Solution-Suppressor-Eliminator/dp/B07HZ4RSS7/ref=lp_10981591_1_16?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1554823575&sr=1-16

https://www.amazon.com/FMS-10-AMP-12V-Car-Audio-Radio-Amplifier-Noise-Suppressor-and-Stereo-Filter-with-Ground-Loop-Isolator/dp/B07HG1M912/ref=lp_10981591_1_25?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1554823575&sr=1-25

you might want to open up the mtrack2 and see if there's a short against the enclosure or ground disconnect.

Some people will suggest a cheater plug to defeat ground loop noise, but IMO thats a bad idea because they are dangerous.

First make sure there's nothing near the Mtrack that can generate noise (where's your cellphone?)

Next try changing the power socket or even the power cord (I dont know if the mtrack2 has a detachable cord)

if you keep getting noise, maybe it's time to move on from the mtrack2. Or if you can't, consider getting one of these, although in general it's always a bad idea to throw good money after bad.