Reddit mentions: The best car amplifier power cable terminals

I have (4) Aura's in chassis mode running on one of these:

https://www.rockvilleaudio.com/rxm-s20/

Yes, it is a car audio amp and I power it off of a modded 650 watt computer PSU under my rig. It has been working flawlessly for almost a year now.

In addition to that, I power all 5 of my surround sound speakers with another one of their amps:

https://www.rockvilleaudio.com/rxh-f5/

And I drive it with another 650 watt (converted) computer PSU.

Both amps cost me less than $200.00 total (combined) with free shipping, brand new.

Both PSU's are silent and I have a 200mm 12v fan that keeps everything cool whenever the chassis is powered up.

I used 2 pairs of these to combine all 12v and all -12v (ground) cables coming from the PSU's to make one solid connection to the amp(s) power and ground connector blocks.

https://www.amazon.com/Conext-Link-GAD48-Gauge-Reducer/dp/B01K1INH82/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1536122430&sr=1-1&keywords=Conext+Link+GAD48+4+Gauge+to+8+Gauge+Wire+Reducer+2+Pack

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The system sounds and feels absolutely amazing and I would never run without it. It has never once given me an issue. I race several hours a day, sometimes 5 days a week on it.

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If you want more info, just ask. But basically, there is no reason to spend big money on fancy amps for a chassis mode set up. All they do is shake and as long as you can provide clean 50w power to each shaker, you have more than you need.....ever.

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>I'm fairly ignorant of electric systems on boats.


I hope you're comfortable with how basic 12VDC electrics work and are asking about how to wire them in a marine environment.


Preface, I'm not a certified marine electrician but I've done a ton of work re-wiring, custom work on all kinds of sail and power boats.


Tools:
>I do have a cheap harbor freight multi-meter

good, now you're going to need a way to crimp those shitty connectors and some dielectric grease.


Unless of course you want to solder all your connections (this is my preference as it doesn't vibrate loose or corrode as quickly), then follow NASA's soldering method s and yuu'll need some rosin cored solder and and a soldering iron, you'll also need to use a crimp connector without the pre-molded shrink wrap and some heat shrink tubing


Ok... got your tools? great, now for supplies.


You'll need a buss bar on your ground


Measure how much wire you need, (are you re-wiring the mast?) and use 14/2 AWG marine grade wire.


If you're only using 1 battery you can get away with a simple switch like this. From the devices & lights you listed It sounds like you can use 10AWG to connect your battery to your switch then to the 14 gang panel.


You'll need a way to label your wires, I use one of these but if you're doing one job you might want to use something cheaper.

Ok... now on the to the fun part


Plan where you're going to mount your panel and pull a single RED 10AWG from there to your battery shut off switch and another strand from you battery to the switch.


Pull 10 AWG from the battery to the buss bar.


pull all the 14awg from the lights to the panel labeling each 14/2 wire as you go


red goes to the fuse block, black goes to the buss bar then to the negative on the gang block, label everything at the connection points, big red wire goes from battery switch to the bolt on the 14 gang, big black wire goes to the buss bar.


install new things, as each device is hooked up test the fuse and switch, then install the new thing.

Edit: I forgot to mention, use dielectric grease on all metal fittings to reduce corrosion.


edit 1: put a fuse between your battery and shut off ont the red wire

I would put two rows of pin headers (of 6 pins each) on a PCB, and then solder a wire along each of them. It is ugly but it is simply the quickest, cheapest and easiest way to do it.

If you want to be fancy you can use 2.35mm screw terminals, but they cost quite a bit more than the pin headers or the 5mm screw terminals.

The actual name of this part is a "bus bar". There is a million different kinds made, in all sizes from tiny to huge. But they cost money and take time to order, so I don't bother with them unless a project MUST look 100% perfect. https://www.amazon.com/Pair-Terminal-Distribution-BUSBARS-Terminals/dp/B07C4W7YKG/ref=asc_df_B07C4W7YKG/?

Something that looks like a bus bar but isn't is called "terminal blocks", where each pair of screw terminals is not connected to the others. You can run a piece of wire lengthwise to connect them however. https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/wire-connectors/12-position-barrier-terminal-block-14-22-awg/3126/

There is also a PCB version called "strip board", that has rows of holes connected by a copper trace: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stripboard ...The usual way you use these is you build your circuit on them and you physically cut the traces where you don't want the power/signal to run.

The Adafruit Proto Boards are a small single version of a PCB style called "bus board", that has connected strips in various lengths and orientations: https://www.jameco.com/z/SB404-Busboard-Prototype-Systems-Solderable-Prototyping-Board-SB404_2191402.html?

On any vehicle I buy I replace those immediately. Get some 6 gauge ring terminals off amazon (negative is 5/16 and positive is 3/8 ring diameter), a pair of military terminals and some 3/4” heat shrink (harbor freight is dirt cheap). Cut the old ones, peel back the insulation and crimp the lugs. Amazing how much better they run without the corrosion and a solid connection.

I think they have a 25 pack of ring terminals for $10ish bucks. Can use a 3/8” ring on both of you want to. Out the door for $20 and have room for accessories to be added later.

Links:

Ring Terminal

Military Terminal

Hi, thanks for the suggestions. Actually, by shopping for din rails i got recommended a "bus bar" which seems to be what I need. See

https://www.amazon.com/Pair-Terminal-Distribution-BUSBARS-Terminals/dp/B07C4W7YKG/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=busbar&qid=1573749715&sr=8-4

Thanks for your help.

I would actually get these: (Real 18AWG 43x2pcs Strands) 10 Pairs DC Power Pigtail Cable 12V 5A Male & Female + 10 Pairs DC Power Jack Plug Adapter Connector for CCTV Home Security Surveillance by MILAPEAK (2.1mm x 5.5mm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CWQPPTW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LmT0Db7G21FSE

I like them better because there are less exposed wires and they are higher quality for pretty much the same price.

To connect a single wire to two things, you split the wire. Take a higher gauge stranded wire, strip it a fair amount (a couple inches) then take half the conductors and twist them together, same with the other half. Use heat shrink so now you’ve got one wire that splits into two wires. Solder additional lengths of wire to your split ends if you need the individual split sections to be longer.

Protip: use these to make soldering wires together dead simple. Kuject 120PCS Solder Seal Wire... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073RMRCC3?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Buy yourself a heat gun if you think you’ll do this more than ~5 times, it makes soldering wires together a 30 second task, very easy.

They are all over Amazon and work surprisingly well. I was skeptical at first, but as long as you make a decent mechanical connection with the wires first they work great.

Here is one example of the captured screw down style I'm referring to, designed for uncrimped terminations and good for both stranded and solid wire.

Your worry is exactly the issue, yes, and you also perfectly elaborated the SOP for it.

That's okay. I'm just really bad with electronics. So is your LED light hooked straight to your battery? It looks like I could get these ring terminals but like I said I'm looking at these LED strips and it has 4 cables so I'm not sure which of those would be the positive or negative. I am getting an inverter for my deep cycle battery so I could just plug it into the 110 outlet on the inverter but I heard using the inverter uses juice and it's recommended to just plug straight into the battery when given the option to conserve battery power.

instead of epoxy and a single sheet metal screw, a bolt would be better. If you can't use a bolt, 3 sheet metal screws is better. Even 2 sheet metal screws is better.

That epoxy would isolate the body of the terminal from the ground relying solely on the single sheet metal screw to carry the current.

Thanks. It didnt seem right that it was doing that. These are what I ordered I've used them many times before with no issue. The heater heats up super fast compared to the old one. Like atleast twice as fast which is nice but has me wondering.

To add to what paxtana said, if you plan on riding in wet conditions I'd recommend using some waterproof heat shrink connectors like these. In my experience, the silicone covers that come preinstalled on those connectors don't really hold up long term in wet conditions and can sometimes vibrate loose to expose the metal they're supposed to protect. I've personally used these on all of my builds and have never had them fail.

Yes there are ferrules and these "reducers"... Never really got the use for them but they're available.


Harmony Audio 1/0 to 4 Gauge Wire Reducer - Nickel Plated https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00W5SGRI4/

Twist caps are not that great. They have come out with much better options however North American code hasn’t caught up. This style of connector is far safer and easier for the diy to use properly. 20Pcs 2/3/5 Way Spring Terminal Block Reusable Electric Cable Wire Connector (2 Ways) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B073TY1R25/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ANqiDb8VBKX6J
Nuts can feel secure but fail. Quite a few tests on YouTube that are pretty cool to watch.

You can save some money, and get a better fit, by using this to power the A118C: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L3XXRI0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

As for the connectors, I used this style: http://www.amazon.com/Absolute-USA-SPL2218R-Scotchlock-Connectors/dp/B00M6J4B1W/ref=sr_1_11?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1426009973&sr=1-11&keywords=tap+connector (get them from an auto parts store or Walmart... you only need 2, and get the red style as that is for smaller wire)

I just hardwired an A118C into a Trailblazer last night, using power from the wires going to the OnStar mirror... The A118C is on the windshield behind the mirror, the little power supply is double-side taped to the back of the mirror, and I tucked the excess USB cable length into the headliner. It's all black, so it's still a fairly stealth install, despite all that being out in the open.

Fuses are good, and I wouldn't trust the higher amperage fuse that's powering Homelink / OnStar / whatever to blow when something goes wrong with a lower amperage circuit like the dashcam or its power supply, but in my case both components are right in front of my face and are controlled by the ignition key. If it has an issue, I'll pull over and turn the key off. If the electronic parts themselves were behind or very near a combustible material (like a headliner), then I'd use a fuse.

My team got 1st in Virginia for hovercraft (division C), and what we did was much safer than cutting the wires of the battery off. Also when you cut the wires off and clip the alligator clips in, there is not really a way to recharge the battery anymore. What I do is I get male and female bullet connectors, and connect the wires that way. Here's a link of some good bullet connectors. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E5T81TI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_2kE-ybNTCRTCX

I would suggest going to a junk hard and cutting off a new connector with plenty (a good foot) of wire so that you have plenty to work with. That connector seems to use crimp-style pins, so you will want another connector.

Use these connectors:https://www.amazon.com/TICONN-Connectors-Waterproof-Electrical-Automotive/dp/B07HCPFPD2/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=waterproof+splice+connectors&qid=1566094004&s=gateway&sr=8-4

You will have to trace each wire as they don't appear to be color coded.

Nevermind, they are color coded. I just looked again. Post back here or PM me and I'll walk you through the process to match new pins if the new connector doesn't have the same wire colors.

Nice van!

Don't be too intimidated with adding a house battery. You can do it.

Very in-depth guide for adding a house battery with solenoid: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1zrwHyy4qyY

This is the battery I used, it ROCKS. (smaller and cheaper options from same company available)

Other items I used...

• Continuous Duty Solenoid
  
• Heavy Gauge Wire 2 AWG
  
• Ring Terminals for Heavy Gauge Wire
  
• ANL Fuse Holder
  
• ANL Fuses 100 Amp
  
• Lighter Gauge Wire
  
• Terminals and Connectors for Lighter Gauge Wire
  
• Heat Shrink Assortment
  
• Circuit breaker (alternative to ANL fuses, works as master disconnect too)
  
• Fuse Block (for all devices connected to house battery)

Personally, I'd just go with one of these Power Distribution Blocks, make sure to get a waterproof one and Bob's your uncle.

Edit: I would also use a fuse-able link sized to the largest sized load that will be on the distrubition block, you know, so you don't burn your truck down. Unless of course they are arleady fused, one fuse in a circuit is good enough.

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t211/civicman_2007/P5060235.jpg

something like this ?

https://i.ytimg.com/vi/MHu1fOy7YTE/maxresdefault.jpg

https://www.amazon.com/XScorpion-Ground-Terminal-Platinum-Distribution/dp/B0058RA7KI

You can use a propane torch or something, those work great. Go to auto zone and get copper if you can.. but your best bet is to order some off Amazon.

What a cunt for charging you for that. . He has absolutely no skill or knowledge with installs.

There's a size in this kit from Amazon that will likely work:

Swpeet 240Pcs Bullet Connectors Kit, 3.9mm Brass Bullet Male & Female Wire Terminals Connector with Insulation Cover for Motorcycle Scooter Car Truck with Insulation Sleeve https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GGSRH59/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hQBVDbE01P9P0

Honestly, This is why everyone stopped using MR. It is a very flaky system. That being said, there are a few things you can do to try and help yourself.


Check your batteries after/before each round, anything lower than 13 Volts and you will start seeing issues. Anything below 12.5 and you will likely be fighting the hardware constantly.


Also, change your battery connectors. If you have these, swap the connectors to something else. I (and most other teams) recommend Anderson power-poles. The reason is that the trimex connectors tend to become lose, and when they do any little bump will cause the hubs to use power and disconnect things. Unfortunately the MR hardware does not have the recovery ability that REV does when the power blinks.