Reddit mentions: The best car amplifier wiring kits

I have a 2012 accord, and the 08-12 have the same body style, so I know what you need and some potential problems you might run into.

You should replace the radio because it'll make a dramatic difference in the sound quality, same with adding an amp. Also, if you want to put quality speakers in, you'll need an amp or you'll risk blowing your speakers.

Problems you'll run into:

• With a new head unit, you'll lose the function of the screen on top, but I think it's a good trade off for the sound quality
  
  
• You can't have speakers in the front doors that are too deep because it'll hit the window, but there are good shallow mount speakers to put there.
  
  
• The back deck WILL rattle, even you you put a good amount of deadener on it, deadener will still help a good amount though. To solve this problem, deaden it, put weather stripping along the back of the deck where it meets the window (I doubled it up where the brake light is back there), and I drilled two small holes from inside the trunk and zip-tied it down around the metal frame under the deck. This worked great for me and I have two 13" subs in a ported box. If you're looking for one 10", it'll definitely work. It might look a little janky, but that's the only way for it to not rattle.
  
  
• To have someone install everything, run the wires, and deaden what you need deadened (which is, at minimum, the front doors and front door panels, rear deck, trunk, trunk lid, and probably the the pillars in the back), you're probably looking at around $300-$600 for about 4-6 hours of work, depending on where you take it to. And some charge more for installing if you didn't buy the parts from them.
  
  In your other post on /r/CarAV, you said you have a couple grand to spend, so I'm going to put a complete SQ system together that you'll be able to keep for a long time and move from car to car.
  
  
• KnuKonceptz 4 gauge amp kit - $50 (they have a cheaper 4 gauge amp kit, but it doesn't have a big enough fuse on it)
  
  
• 100' KnuKonceptz speaker wire - $20
  
  
• RCA cables (need 2 more pairs) - $10 x 2
  
  
• Dash kit - $50
  
  
• Wiring harness - $12
  
• Antenna adapter - $10
  
  
• Steering wheel control interface - $80
  
  
• Kenwood excelon headunit - $260
  
  
• 6.5" Focal component speakers for the front - $250
  
  
• 6.5" JL coax speakers for the back deck - $140
  
  
• Baffles for the speakers on back deck - $8 (you need these if you want to hear these speakers because of noise cancelation from the sub)
  
  
• 10" pioneer sub - $300
  
  
• Crappy pre-fab sub box - $60
  
  
• Custom box for your car - $120 + $15 if you want a grill (They will build it to the specs of the sub, which is 1 cu.ft. sealed if you go with the pioneer)
  
  
• Kenwood excelon 5 channel amp - $500
  
  
• 25ft^2 of sound deadener - $55
  
  
• $1815-1890 + $300-$600 installation + your tax rate
  
  You probably can find some of this stuff cheaper on amazon, but they're not a registered dealer so you're SOL if something goes bad.
  
  I'd go in to the store, get two quotes, 1) just to install all of this stuff you bought online and 2) what it would cost to buy everything from them with installation and see which is cheaper. The cost for dealers on door speakers and subwoofers is literally half of what they sell for, not head units though, they have very little mark up. Chances are the store might end up being cheaper if you tell them exactly what you're looking at online and how much you're planning to spend on it. Win-Win for you and the dealer, he get's business and you get a better price and similar quality products if they can compete with the online prices. Plus you'd be supporting a local business, unless you were planning on going to best buy, car toys, or something like that (don't do that, go to a local place). And if you buy all this stuff from a dealer and have it installed there, if anything goes wrong you can take it back and have them deal with it.
  
  
  
  
  
  

I recently did the upgrade myself on with 2014 Sonata GLS without nav. parts used:

• Kenwood DMX905S
  
• Scosche HY1625b dash kit
  
• iDatalink Maestro RR
  
• Factory replacement harness for Maestro RR
  
• Crimp cap Nylon connector
  
  the install was sort of straight forward. connecting the wires from replacement T harness to the Kenwood main cable may seem intimidating, but if you follow the diagram supplied by iDatalink, it will not be difficult. Maestro RR unit is very convenient and it lets me assign a single tap and hold (two functions) for each of the steering wheel buttons. one my biggest worry about losing the factory backup camera and its dynamic parking guideline when the car is in reverse. I am happy to report, the factory backup camera works, and the dynamic parking guide line shows up just fine when I am reversing the car with the Kenwood. removing the factory dash panel was not hard if you use the panel tools. the Scosche is of high quality and matches the factory dash overall, but some of the fitment was not correct. when swapping out the parts from the factory panel to Scosche panel, don't put on those green clips just yet. because for me it took a while to find a good fitment between the head unit and the panel, so I had to take off the panel, change the depth or angle of the head unit, and put the panel back on to see if the fit is good. once you are happy with the fitment, put on those green clips on the panel, and set the panel into the dash for good. I set up the microphone at the base of the steering wheel and the GPS antenna on the right side at the edge of the windshield. I channeled the dual USB cable between the two panels near the factory power, USB and audio inputs.
  
  I'm very impressed with the Kenwood unit. I have upgraded it to the latest firmware. then connected my phone (Galaxy S8) with the USB cable and started android auto. next time, I started my car, android auto started right away wirelessly. the screen is low res, but it is not noticeable for me. the sound quality is the biggest strength. the sound is very rich and clear. I have already swapped all four door speakers with Rockford speakers , and the two dash speaker with these. they are not a good fit at the factory slot, I have used bass blocker with the dash speaker. I have also added a Pioneer powered subwoofer in the trunk. using this wire kit.
  
  pic

Specs:

• 2012 Audi Q5 with B&O sound system
  
• Prefab box, ~39Hz
  
• 2x Sundown Audio EV-5 (dual 4 ohm)
  
• Sundown Audio SAE-600D Monoblock 600W RMS
  
• Accubas LC2i LOC
  
• KnuKonceptz Kolossus 4 Gauge OFC Amplifier Installation Kit
  
  The LOC in use has a feature where it can counter bass frequencies being lowered when the stock head unit starts lowering the bass output at high HU volumes to protect the stock speakers. It turns out this Audi didn't need that feature (bass didn't drop even at max volume).
  
  The box is what it is (quality wise it is actually OK), it's tuned a little high for my taste. Unfortunately with limited tools and no shop/space I decided to go with the prefab box. It cheap but gets the job done.
  
  How does it sound? It sounds really good, gets really loud after I set the gains "properly". One interesting note however is that the Accubass gain needs to be set to 95% of max in order for the "Maximize" LED to come on, when the HU is at full tilt. I'm tapping into the stock subwoofer amp output for the line in to the LOC, I might get better results by tapping into the front speakers but then I'd have to run cables from the HU all the way back, I'd rather not do that.
  
  I need to do some sweeps and check what the frequency response looks like. All in all it blends in quite well with the system, I'm really happy with it.
  
  Total cost for the install with shipping of parts was around $630. (it took ~2 days to install)

Not sure what you decided to go with but IMO if you get a sub in your trunk then your speakers will sound like they're better. Many people on this subreddit will bash this recommendation but I'll give it anyway.

$150 prebuilt subwoofer box

$55 amplifier

$15 wiring kit

$9 optional converter

The converter is needed if your radio is stock. I also think it makes the install easier regardless as it is one set less wire to run & you won't have to take apart your headunit.

I think this is the best intro level set up for a subwoofer if you're looking to spend about $220.
It will definitely impress you if you haven't heard/had bass in a car before. Also very easy to set up and you can do it in about 3 hours with no experience.

Edit: forgot this amp comes with a built in high/low converter to feed straight off the speakers. Converter may be easier but is optional.

I just got back into car audio. I am adding a single sub to my car and have done some research recently. Here is what I would suggest as a cost effective way to add some bass to your car.

​

Alpine mono amp new at BestBuy for $99. It puts out 500 watts @ 2 ohms.

Alpine MRV-M500 Mono V-Power Digital Amplifier

​

4 gauge amp kits or $19.45 on amazon.

SoundBox Connected 4 Gauge Amp Kit Amplifier Install Wiring Complete 4 Ga Installation Cables 2200W

​

You will need a line our converter (LOC) to hook up the factory stereo to the amp. This one includes a control knob for the amp as well. This one is $19.97.

SCOSCHE LOC2SL Car Stereo 2-Channel Audio Adjustable Amplifier Add-On Adapter with Remote Control Knob

If you want a cheaper one you can buy this one for $7.94.

PAC SNI-35 Variable LOC Line Out Converter

​

You will need an enclosure for the sub. Since you are cost conscious, I imagine you want the most boom for your buck so I would go with a ported sub box. I prefer sealed but it is up to you. This one is $36.95 and has a decent speaker terminal.

ASC Single 12" Subwoofer Universal Fit Vented Port Sub Box Speaker Enclosure

​

|Part|Price|
|:-|:-|
|Amp|$99|
|Amp Kit|$19.45|
|LOC|$7.94|
|Enclosure|$36.95|
|TOTAL before sub woofer, shipping is free.|$163.34|

​

That leaves you $336.66 to spend on a sub woofer and installation if you need it. You could easily get 2 10's and a box and still have a lot of cash left.

​

You can buy a used box pretty cheap on OfferUp or Craigslist as well as a quality amp and sub. I would not buy a used amp kit or a used LOC. However the amp kit you could simply buy the wire directly.

​

You see a lot of people selling JL W3's online used. That is a quality woofer at a good price.

​

I hope this info helps.

(Edit)
Here is the oxygen free wiring kit I purchased. It is a lot more but reasonable priced on Amazon for what you get.
KnuKonceptz Kolossus 4 Gauge OFC Amplifier Installation Kit

No. Eliminate the unshielded twisted/braided cable, not the coax. Pretend braided isn't a thing for home audio (it should not be). Avoid stuff like this.

Unshielded twisted pair cables are good for balanced, differential signals. We use that in pro audio (though we almost always use a shield, too). Many car audio amplifiers have differential inputs, and it works there too.

Home audio gear doesn't work that way. It has single-ended inputs, which lends itself neatly to coaxial cable. You need a shield.

And you're overthinking this. Just score some coaxial wire (Monoprice if you're cheap, Canare GS-6 if you want something colorful and durable and not-too-spendy, or whatever fanciful inexpensive wire you find on Amazon). You can install your own ends if you want, but if it comes pre-terminated then that's fine too.

Directional interconnects are a thing, too, and they can work. I've built them myself and had them help reduce some particular problems that I was experiencing with common-mode noise. These consist of one (sometimes two) twisted pairs and a shield. Half of the wires get used for signal, the other half for ground. The shield is important and necessary for home audio interconnects. It is grounded on only one end.

But let me be very clear: If you're not experiencing problems (and most folks never do), then there's no advantage to using fancier wire than some manner of coaxial arrangement. It really doesn't matter at audio frequencies with typical domestic cable lengths. You can untwist some metal coat hangers, insulate them with plastic soda straws, plug them into RCA jacks in between to bits of gear, and wrap them with aluminum foil from the kitchen. It will work -- and sound -- fine.

(Not that I'm recommending this -- my intent is to show just how much it really doesn't matter.)

Now you're wondering: Why do pros get different stuff? Things change when you get into long wires with lots of tightly-spaced parallel runs. There can easily be 500 feet of wire between a microphone and its preamplifier in a live sound environment, which creates problems that we just don't have at home. At an extreme, I took special care in a circuit I used once that sent audio through ~37 miles of copper wire (which worked well for its purpose) -- but these problems don't exist at home.

And braided cable works for headphones, too: It is inherently a differential signal by virtue of the independent drivers, though induced noise is almost never even on the radar with modern low-impedance headphones at typical lengths (and by low-impedance, I mean something with a voice coil instead of the piezoelectric element that your great grandfather used with his kit-built crystal radio set -- which is essentially everything these days) and therefore it doesn't solve any problems there, either.

Thanks! I got the speakers in on Saturday, so I just ran them on the stock wires. The speaker wire was taped up with the power window and lock wires and ain't nobody got time for that for what I imagined would be a pretty insignificant gain on a system this size.

Embarrassed to say that the first door took me like 3 hours, but once I figured out a good way to mount the tweeters in the front, the other doors were pretty quick. The rear doors were pretty much 10 minutes each between the direct fit speakers and the speaker wiring harnesses.

I got all 4 speakers in, and they sound fantastic... well compared to the old ones, anyway.

I did pick up an amp installation kit that has an 8awg power and 8awg ground, and an inline 50amp fuse.. so I should be all set there.

I should be getting the wire harness tonight, so I can move to the next step of getting the Nexus 7 in place. Software-wise, it's all set up using Timur's USB ROM with Torque (though no ODBII dongle yet) and some other interface software. I am getting power out to the DAC through the OTG cable and the power switching for sleep mode seems to be working pretty well. Just need some tweaking to the Tasker profiles to get Bluetooth internet tethering to start automatically on my phone when it connects to the tablet.

I would go with

$300 w/install kit Pioneer 80prs

$90 8" silver flute for doors

$60 XT25 tweeters

$70 subwoofer box

$80 Skar VD subwoofer

$170 MB Quart 5 channel amp

$60 knukonceptz wire kit

$40 Noico sound deadener


Over budget, $870, but that is some good kit for the money. I am not sure which wire harness you need since you aren't keeping the stock bose amp.... that would be a great thing to ask in crutchfield chat window.

Run the 80prs in network mode, cross your sub/mids at somewhere between 80 and 200, mids and tweeters anywhere from 2500 to 5000hz. Tweak around until it sounds best to you. Should sound great.

> I am planning on replacing all 4 door speakers, which I believe are 5" with 6x8 kicker cs series. Total cost for the speakers being $100.

You'd be far better off with 5.25" components, and spending your money on the fronts only to get better speakers. The Kicker CS are frankly pretty damn bad. Try these. You can run them off HU power for now and amp them later to improve the sound.

> I still have the stock stereo, and I'm debating on even replacing it, because if I do, I will lose my fuel economy button/readings. If I replaced it, I planned on replacing it with a Kenwood DPX502BT. It is amplified and I was told with the Kenwood amplifying to the stock amplifier then to the speakers that would increase total wattage to the speakers. I'm not sure if I actually need that, since right now with the stock blown speakers I can definitely turn them up past where I would ever listen to them already. So aside from having bluetooth, I don't see much of a benefit.

You can keep the stock HU and run a LOC to an aftermarket amp, or you can use an aftermarket HU and run straight to an aftermarket amp. Putting aftermarket speakers on the factory amp is a bad idea. There's too much built-in, un-defeatable processing on that signal that doesn't work right for anything other than the speakers it's meant for.

> Next I was going to put a cheap sub in there. There is a 8" bandpass sound ordinance sub on crutchfield for $100. Very good reviews on it considering the price point.

Please don't do that. This sub (dual 2 ohm) in a simple sealed box, or a custom ported box if you want to do a bit more work, would serve you much better. You also need a sub amp, which it looks like you haven't considered. This is a great budget amp. You also need a wiring kit, like this one.

You won’t be able to see voltage drops normally, the amp may be getting voltage but not enough amps. Check continuity on the amp wire and make sure there’s not added resistance in the wire. Should be damn near nothing.

And I’ve always had good luck with the kicker kits and I’ve hear good things about the knukonceptz kits.

Normally when a client comes in to us and says that they have a amp cutting out and going into protect mode, we swap it with our shop test amp and sub, which is a kicker cxa 600.1 and kicker comp r 12” and we crank the shit out of it and see, if it cuts out with that system then we swap the wires and all is good, if it doesn’t we sell them an amp and sub.

KnuKonceptz Kolossus 4 Gauge OFC Amplifier Installation Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005CIJBKK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Gg.7Cb5PNTECF

Kicker PK4 4 Gauge OFC Power Amplifier Installation Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IFA6C1S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fh.7Cb7E4TQZN

The crutchfield guy may have been trying to sell you a LOC that corrects the bass roll off some cars experience. I myself bought an LC2i converter for that reason, but you may not need it. It looks like that amp accepts speaker level inputs so you may be able to skip the LOC altogether and just tap into your rear speakers. Up to you though the LOC is so cheap you may as well use it. If you notice the bass is decreasing as you increase volume you might look into buying a more expensive LOC that fixes the signal. I would try out the bass package as is first before I did that though.


You will need RCA cables to run from the LOC to the amp. Amazon has some for like 8 bucks. For the amp wiring kit, I got one for 20 dollars on Amazon.


InstallGear 4 Gauge Complete Amp Kit Amplifier Installation Wiring Wire https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N1SS2ZA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_L1q8Ab9TTW5NK


This is 4 gauge wire which is more than enough for your amp. If you prefer 8 gauge you can find a similarly priced set on Amazon. Everything else looks fine. Any reason you went with the MTX?

Modifications I'd make:

• Replace the wiring kit with this
  
  
• Replace the RCAs with 3 of these
  
  The RCAs in your list are only 1M (3 feet) long which is too short to go from the deck to under the seat. The Knu RCAs are, in my opinion, the best on the market without getting into crazy prices.
  
  As I stated in another comment, I really don't think that sub is going to fit under your seat. It's possible the newer WRX has a different design but based on previous experience with my '01 RS 2.5, and knowing that Subaru hasn't changed the seats much between now and '01, I'm pretty sure it's way too big.
  
  Your deck and amp choices are great.
  

$700 is a little tight for subs, box, wiring, amp, all new door speakers, possible amp for them.

A Dayton HO is a great bang for the buck. Here's about the cheapest amp to push it, that's not a piece of shit. Here's the cheapest 4 gauge wiring kit that's not shit. Here's the cheapest LOC that's not shit. Then you still need a box for the sub. Either building it yourself or buying a prefab is going to run you ~$50. So we're at ~$460 already. I'd throw a Key amp on those factory door speakers and let its DSP do work. So that's $660 total, plus some possible tax or shipping.

Related but separate note, I'd like to see what connector your factory head unit has. There were two possibilities for that vehicle. But I'd think about buying the male and female Metra harnesses for the head unit. It'll make splicing in the Key amp and LOC easier and cleaner. No cutting factory wires. Should be like $30 total. Search 70-1722 and 71-1722 on Amazon for example. If that harness looks like yours, buy em. But it might be the 70-1729 harness?

You will need to buy an amp and sub. It looks like your headunit has preouts so that is good. You can put together a fairly decent sub stage for $500. if you can build a box yourself that will help you budget quite a bit. if you want to save room and still have a pretty decent bump in low end I would look at a single 12" sealed.

Subs:

http://store.soundsolutionsaudio.com/products/sundown-audio-ev3-12-subwoofer-e12v3-500w-e-series.html

http://store.soundsolutionsaudio.com/products/dcon-12-sound-solutions-audio-12-400w-dcon-series-subwoofer.html

Amp:

http://store.soundsolutionsaudio.com/products/twisted-sounds-ts1kw.html

http://store.soundsolutionsaudio.com/products/nvx-bda7501-amplifier.html

wiring kit:

https://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Kolossus-Gauge-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B005CIJBKK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484576902&sr=8-1&keywords=knukonceptz+KOL-AK4

if you have to go with a prefab box i would do something like this if it would fit:

https://www.parts-express.com/denovo-audio-knock-down-mdf-10-cu-ft-subwoofer-cabinet--300-7085

Never seen that website before. That would be a bit overkill. The speakers look good tho.

If you're looking to save money you can go with something like this.
Amp
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BF6HY84/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1502328240&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=2+channel+amplifier&dpPl=1&dpID=510stvQfv1L&ref=plSrch
Speakers
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000P0PF9G/ref=mp_s_a_1_23?ie=UTF8&qid=1502328354&sr=8-23&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=6.5+coaxial+speakers

Now if you go that route you'll need an amp install kit. Knu koncepts of very well loved here. I have this same kit in my car.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005CIJBKK/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1502328557&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=knukonceptz+4+gauge&dpPl=1&dpID=51T-yGZf9YL&ref=plSrch

This will give you plenty of wire for when you add the sub + amp.

If you stick with the 8" (and get a good one with some nice power behind it) I personally think an 8" would do just fine.

I went through amazon, and found everything I used:

• Sub
  
  
• Amp
  
  
• Wiring Kit
  
  
• Grille
  
  
• Box Felt
  
  Like I've said elsewhere, I wish I would have taken a picture of the box I built. It wasn't vented, and was about ~25% too small, but it still sounds great.
  
  Edit: It was roughly this shape: Not to scale

I know you asked about an amp kit from Sonic, but I would highly recommend getting this kit from Amazon.

Some of the low end brands on Sonic that sell amp kits won't give you wire that's as thick as they actually it is (i.e. some '4 gauge' cables will have thicker sheathes and less wire than others). Knu Konceptz over-sizes their wires plus this kit is made with oxygen-free copper instead of cheaper copper clad aluminum, which would provide better current flow and OFC doesn't corrode as easily. It's a great deal for the price.

I would get this wire kit instead: http://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Kolossus-Gauge-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B005CIJBKK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1417578842&sr=8-2&keywords=knuconcepts+4guage

It is Oxygen Free Copper and has a higher current capacity. The wire you chose has a max rating of 100Amps. Your amp has 120Amps worth of fuses on it. So you will want to get a better wire.

The one I posted should be perfect.

While people might snub their nose at cheap speakers I have 2 pair of these in my crew cab and they sound just as good over the road noise as speakers that cost twice as much.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_575R1675X2/Rockford-Fosgate-R1675X2.html

I rented a versa for a while when working 400 miles from home and driving back and forth on the weekends. They are not the quietest cars so those subtle nuances people spend extra on can get lost in the "ambiance". Thing I loved about that car is I could set the cruise on 95 and still get 33 mpg, which is triple what I would get driving 80 in my truck.

As far as subs go keep an eye on your local CL or Facebook marketplace for anything in JL Audio's W3 line. I'm going to go pick up a second 12w3v3-4 in a couple days for a bill. You have time to sit and wait until you find a good deal so just keep your eyes peeled.

NVX makes great amps for under $200, if you can't find a monoblock used before your head unit comes out (you should be able to pick a suitable one up using those same resources for $100).

As far as amp wiring kits you're not going to be pulling enough amperage pushing a 250-500w rms subwoofer to necessitate a 4ga ofc wiring kit. 8ga ofc or 4ga CCA will be fine.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N1SS2ZA?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

$80 for factory replacement speakers
$20 for wiring kit
$100 for sub
$100 for amp
$500 for head unit

You want to get a d2 sub. That means it's dual voicecoil, 2ohms per coil. coils would be wired parallel for a 1 ohm final load. A 4 gauge amp wiring kit will be fine. I would spend the few extra dollars for a nice OFC (oxygen free copper) kit over a kit that uses CCA(copper clad aluminum) Here is a really good choice, has all you need http://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Kolossus-Gauge-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B005CIJBKK/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1344479367&sr=1-2&keywords=knukonceptz+4+gauge

I have an old Alpine MRP-M350 in my car. Paired with SWS-12D4.

First you have to pick your amp. But it also helps to know how many Amps your Alternator puts out. My alt puts out 150 amps, which is uncommonly high for a sedan. The reason for knowing your alternator is because if you have a weak alt, you will get headlight dimming very easily. No one likes headlight dimming.

After you know how many amps you have to work with off your alt. Then you get an amp. Something like this is pretty middle of the road:

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/alpine-500w-class-d-digital-mono-amplifier-with-low-pass-crossover-black/7551285.p?skuId=7551285

After you have you amp, you need a sub. Pick any dual voice coil sub. Dual four is good. When wired in parallel it makes it 2ohms.

https://images.crutchfieldonline.com/ca/learningcenter/car/subwoofer_wiring/1DVC_4-ohm_mono.jpg

Now you have sub and amp. TIme for wiring. You need a wiring kit.

https://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Kolossus-Gauge-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B005CIJBKK/ref=lp_3308787011_1_12?srs=3308787011&ie=UTF8&qid=1491479560&sr=8-12

You will want Oxygen Free Copper, not Copper Clad Aluminum. Pure copper is what you are after. Anything else is junk.

Now you have your parts. Amp. Sub. Fat ass wire (4 gauge).

Run the power wire from the battery to where ever you want your amp, most people put it in the trunk. Make sure you have the inline fuse holder close the battery, within 12 inches.

Next, from the back if your stereo, you are going to run two wires. A remote wire that leads to the amp. And pair of RCA cables also to the amp. Next you are going to run a ground to the amp. The ground is simple because most people just find a bare metal in the trunk and use that.

Then you hook the power wire to the power terminal on the amp. Then the remote wire to the remote terminal on the amp. Then plug in the RCAs into the amp also. Power wire gives the amp power, remote wire turns the amp on and off with your car so you dont drain the battery because its always on. The RCAS give the amp an audio signal. Lastly, you go back and install the fuse, in the in line fuse box near the battery. And now you have a complete circuit, and thus, a working amp.

KCA is Knu's code for copper clad aluminum which is aluminum wire with a thin copper coating. Kolossus Flex is OFC, oxygen free copper, and is good for 150A at 4ga. Pure copper is a MUCH better conductor than aluminum.

W304-Fs or W254-Fs. They are free air woofers. 4 ohm SVC. You need to figure out which one it is based on the diameter, then you'll have your power rating. I'd also get a multimeter to make sure they are not blown. They don't handle much power. One of these, with gain properly set should work, so you have some spare power if you ever were to switch them. I'd suggest this wiring kit.

This is what I'd do on that budget.

Sub: Dayton Titanic 12 $190

Box $57

Amp $166

Wiring Kit $50

Total: $463

With the little extra remaining I'd get a sound deadening kit for your trunk. You could also save money on the wiring if you never plan to upgrade in the future, but I typically like to go overkill on my amp and wiring the first time so future upgrades are a simple plug and play without having to run new wiring.

Car Audio Newb

I bought a used Skar ZVX-8 dual 2 ohm 900 rms sub in a box and its currently wired to 1 ohm. I plan on getting an Audiopipe APCL-1001D as my amp (getting a good deal in it). Specs say it should do 1000 watt rms at 1 ohm, or 600 rms at 2 ohm.

My questions are, should I run it at 1 ohm or rewire the sub for 2 ohms? And as far as an amp wiring kit, would this be a good option, or should I just build my own kit with welding cable? Trying to be as cost efficient as possible.

Here ya go....Sundown E series 15 $165

Pioneer amp $170

box $150

wiring kit $ 60

Around $550 for everything, but you could easily knock off $100 of that just by building your own box. or still save some by finding someone on craigslist that builds boxes(every craigslist has 1 or 2)

I'm pretty sure they flog you here if you suggest anything other than Knukonceptz.

Cheaper kit :
http://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-KCA-Complete-Gauge-Installation/dp/B0050I6KII/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1381424122&sr=8-1&keywords=knukonceptz+4+gauge

Better grade OFC kit : http://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Kolossus-Gauge-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B005CIJBKK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1381424140&sr=8-2&keywords=knukonceptz+4+gauge+ofc

mystery edit mofos.

Try to pick up something like this. Good luck!

Speaker Amp $145

Save a little with this Knukonceptz wiring kit $50

Sub amp $150

Puts your total at $620. You may be able to find a cheaper speaker amp, I'm just a fan of Alpine, and I love mine!

I have this one

And used this install kit

It's cheap, has an integrated amp, has it's own enclosure, and kicks hard (get lots of compliments, even at 1/3 power).

Additionally, I like the fact I can remove it fairly easily by using disconnects on my wires. I have a hatch, so whenever I need the space I can get it out in 20 seconds.

For $20 less you could run 4AWG and have more flexibility should you ever wish to install a different amp or an additional amp in the future.

I'd also look at mono amps as /u/xTHANATOPSISX said as they more flexible powering a subwoofer set up.

This is the things that I wrote for another guy, and since I already have it typed I'm just pasting it here. Since it's such a small battery my idea (155Ah) is to charge it with my alternator.

 

• Battery
  
• Isolator
  
• Inverter
  
• This Accesory
  
• And this cables with this fuse.
  
  I would use that accessory to plug stuff that use 12v like cellphone charger,fans etc. It's best to run things directly from the 12v DC instead of converting it to AC and then again converting it to DC.
  
  Those cables are over-kill, but that's what I would buy because they are not that expensive and it doesn't hurt.
  
  
   
  
  
  This is how I would connect everything. It totals around $475 US.

Let us assume that you are truly pushing 1000w. If we divide that by 12V (really 13+ with car running), your wiring will need to support 83amps at most.

Consulting the wiring chart (http://www.crutchfield.com/S-t4zqwB6AVEs/learn/learningcenter/car/cable_gauge_chart.html), depending on distance you will need 6 or 4 ga. wiring.

Given these specs and that I always over engineer, I'd go with this kit
http://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Kolossus-Gauge-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B005CIJBKK/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1369242499&sr=8-4&keywords=knukonceptz

which is $50 on Amazon.

Here is a good budget build:

Alpine type-r $138

Alpine 500w rms amp $151

Wires $45

You will need to build a box or buy one for $20-$50

So if you can spare an extra $100, this will be 1000 times better then the stuff you are looking at.

For $1200 you can get a decent set of component speakers, 5 channel amp, and a pair of custom made enclosures for subs.

Pioneer 5 channel - 279 shipped

Wire kit - $60 shipped+ $20 extra for a 4-channel set of rca's

Pioneer TS components - $90 shipped

LCI7 line out converter - $114 shipped

We're at roughly $570 shipped without the sub+box+install. Do you want overwhelming bass for the low end, or something subtle to blend in with the mids and highs? A mix of both perhaps? Also, did you REALLY want that vehicle specific box for the extra trunk space? A shop could fabricate a fiberglass form fitting enclosure for typically $350.


To answer your initial question: No, an 8" sub and form fitting box is NOT worth $800 extra. In fact, the $1200 package is a rip off equipment wise since you only get tweeters + dsp/amp + 8" sub/box. What you're paying for is ease of use and pre-processed sound. You may want to go to the dealership and try to listen to a car with this set up anyways.

I found something pretty inexpensive like this? BOSS Audio KIT2 8 Gauge Amplifier Installation Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FKP7TY/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_2mpcvb0C9ZYR2

Subwoofer, Amp, 8 gauge cable kit, trim removal set, Fuse taps, and T-Taps

As for a guide, I just used other guides online and pieced them together. Really should have made a well-documented one when I did it, but I installed mine 6 months ago. Already forgot certain things. Just remember to look up the speaker wire colors for the back speakers before you tap into them and know that putting the power cord through your firewall from your battery is going to be a total bitch :)

Also just to clarify, the fuse taps are for the remote wire going into the amp. I tapped the sunroof fuse as it shuts on/off with the ignition (I don't have a sunroof, but it shouldn't matter if you do or not). Also also, that black cable going into my amp on the left side is a bass knob that came with the amp. That's wired all the way up into my glove box, so it can be adjusted easily if it becomes too much. The wires with kit and everything are long enough that you shouldn't need anything else, and everything tucks away in the door seem guides so nothing is showing at all.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PJ1VL8?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Equalizer:26$

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004TU5R1E?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_3&smid=A1FMHNVWMGI839

2 speakers: 46$

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004S4XNEO?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_4&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Amp: 46$

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FKP7TY?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_2&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Wiring: 16$


Would you mind reviewing this then? I know it's not going to make the ground shake, but it will be a lot better then an 86's stock audio, and it has room to upgrade.

i agree with /u/effin_dead_again about the don't use boss anything. However I would wait it out and order knuconceptz personally. Given your requirements I don't think you'll really need the OFC (oxygen free copper) kit, this KCA (copper clad aluminum) should be fine.Edit: after being reminded by /u/effin_dead_again as to why i shouldn't recommend CCA, I have changed my kit recommendation to the 4G OFC knuconceptz kit.

if it helps i have this 4 guage currently running to the sub: https://www.amazon.com/InstallGear-Complete-Amplifier-Installation-Wiring/dp/B01N1SS2ZA/ and have this 10 guage: https://www.amazon.com/InstallGear-Gauge-Black-Power-Ground/dp/B01NBE1YQ4 . wiring plan is something like this: https://i.imgur.com/SKKeeVB.png

I’ll be the guy to give you some advise seeing there has been no post in 13 hours, I’m no professional.

$35 copper 6ga amp wire kit Walmart - Locally

$50 KnuKoncepts 4ga OFC amp kit Amazon

Only use OFC (Oxygen Free Copper) Wire

$127 Audio Controls LC6i LineOut Converter Amazon

This let’s you keep your stock radio and add the two amps

$140 Alpine MRV-F300 SonicElectronix

Power your new door speakers for increase loudness and clarity

$80/pair NVX 6.5” Component Kit SonicElectronix

Two sets would cover your doors, they are a high enough rms where the amp will not blow them as long as you have it tuned properly and it’s not turned all the way up! Distortion kills speakers! I would disconnect your rear deck center speaker.


$101 2X Alpine W12S4 12” Single 4ohm Subs SonicElectronix

$90 Ported Subwoofer Box- almost optimal size. SonicElectronix

check your trunk measurements you might have to go with a smaller sealed box*

$150 Alpine MRV-M500 Subwoofer amp SonicElectronix

You will be slightly over budget. Self install or nothing. Many areas to improve in the future. Goodluck

The amp and subs I’m on board with for this budget but I wouldn’t get that wiring kit. It’s CCA power/ground

Spend a little more and get this


Build your own box but use proper glue not silicon. Titebond 2 is pretty much universally used by enclosure makers. Glued correctly you don’t even need screws - the glue is stronger than the screws, esp in MDF.

I bought this kit and it works great.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Rockville-RXC4D-Digital-Capacitor-Voltage/dp/B019Z3RISY/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=Farad%2BCar%2BCapacitor&qid=1555656720&s=electronics&sr=1-1&th=1

​

and this wire kit.

​

https://www.amazon.com/BOSS-Audio-Amplifier-Installation-Wiring/dp/B000FKP7TY/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=amp%2Bwire%2Bkit&qid=1555657108&s=electronics&sr=1-4&th=1

​

Mine came with 2 audio cables but it's the same kit.

Get an amplifier wiring kit it comes with fuse and terminals. It would be great if the inverter had a remote wire input like the amps (that would turn it on/off with the accessory) but i don't know any that has it, i always have to modify them.

Line Output Convertor + 2 Channel amp + amp kit

or if you wanted something more name brand something like THIS Cheap stuff still, but better than the dual crap

I wanted to give an update.

• ROCKFORD FOSGATE 500x1
  
  
• 2 pairs of these speakers [KICKER 6.5" CS65]
  (http://www.bestbuy.com/site/kicker-cs65-6-1-2-coaxial-speakers-with-polypropylene-woofer-cones-pair-black/7708042.p?skuId=7708042)
  
  
• KICKER COMPS 10" SUB 4OHM
  
  
• 4 GA WIRING KIT
  
  
• PAC THING TO NOT HAVE TO SPLICE
  
  I'll be running the stock radio so I'm assuming everything installation related should be pretty self explanatory.
  
  Am I missing anything?

I recommend KnuKonceptz, but not the cheap kit you linked.

http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-audio/amp-installation-kits/sp/complete-4-gauge-amplifier-installation-kit/

On Amazon - > https://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Kolossus-Gauge-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B005CIJBKK/ref=sr_1_5?crid=K0UQ0KXC0E35&keywords=knukonceptz+4+gauge+kit&qid=1550682196&s=gateway&sprefix=knukonceptz+4+%2Caps%2C183&sr=8-5

I just bought a Rockford Fosgate dual amp wiring kit 56% off...seems like a good deal.

and I have an electrical contractor I use at work that can lend me a hydraulic crimper for the weekend.

Is there any way to check the "health" of a grounding point? Can I use an ohm meter to check the resistance between the negative terminal and the grounding point? If so, what value should I be looking for?

[This](BOSS Audio KIT2 8 Gauge Amplifier Installation Wiring Kit – A Car Amplifier Wiring Kit Helps You Make Connections and Brings Power To Your Radio, Subwoofers and Speakers https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000FKP7TY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VwCBCb6S7WHR4) might be the exact kit I used

I got some cheap ones on amazon
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XF2529V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.p28AbKXGYTS0


https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/81A5zbbMtEL._SL1500_.jpg

At the moment I have them connected to the top white and red Ports.

Since I'm assuming you're planning on 2 of those subs, switch out the amp for this and switch out the wire for at least this. That amp will put out 1000w at 2ohm (a final load from pairing 2x 2ohm DVC woofers like those) and that wiring kit will be able to handle all the power that amp can pull.

Sure. Not the most knowledgable when it comes to wiring, so if I'm wrong hopefully someone will correct me... But I think a 4 gauge OFC kit will do you just fine, and KnuConceptz seems to be the undisputed king of wiring around these parts.

http://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Kolossus-Gauge-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B005CIJBKK

After some searching I found Lanzar HTG237 1,000-Watt 2-Channel on amazon. With that amp an 8awg kit will work.
What kind of car are you putting it into?

Amp: https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-GM-D8601-Class-Amplifier-Remote/dp/B00CFX58YI

Sub: http://www.caraudiobargain.com/b-stock-sundown-audio-ev3-10-subwoofer-500w-e-series/

Wiring kit: https://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Kolossus-Gauge-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B005CIJBKK

If you want a ported box, build it. Prefab boxes are 98% junk when it comes to meeting the specs of the woofer. Sealed prefab boxes aren't the best, but you don't need to match port size and all that, as long as the cubic footage is there it will be alright. Sealed isn't as loud as ported, though.

If anyone has other suggestions, feel free to tell me my selection was shit. I'm still soaking up knowledge.

Hey there /u/theteg, glad to see you come by.
i would personally recommend a c2 audio threatcon 2 in dual 4 coils amped by a kenwood 9105d with a good 4 gauge wiring kit and a 1.5 cube sealed enclosure

i have personally used each one of these products and have had nothing but a great experience with each one of them

Would this work?

https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Amplifier-Installation-Performance-Interconnect/dp/B000FKP7TY/ref=pd_bxgy_107_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=HG0BFVWRYVJPPEVND6FA

One wire goes from the battery to the amp. (The +)
The other one goes to some metal for ground. (The -)
And the double blue cable mostly white and red on the end goes from the aftermarket radio to the amp.
If you pop the hood is it connected to the battery? Or can you see the wire near the battery? Also there should be some sort or fuse in a plastic casing.

https://www.amazon.com/IZTOSS-Subwoofer-Amplifier-Installation-Wiring/dp/B01IP93Z86

I plan on buying this: https://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Kolossus-Gauge-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B005CIJBKK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1550960855&sr=8-3&keywords=knukonceptz+4+gauge

​

Everyone says OFC is the way to go.

I think I will go with this because it has what I need and is cheapest do you think it is okay?

You need to run an 8 gauge wire kit with a fuse matching that of the amp directly from the battery. Separate from that you can run a little 18 gauge or 16 from the 12v socket. This is a single wire and only connects to the "remote" terminal. You wire it there so it turns on and off with the ignition

Sample kit
https://www.amazon.com/BOSS-Audio-Amplifier-Installation-Wiring/dp/B000FKP7TY

http://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Kolossus-Gauge-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B005CIJBKK/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1375113174&sr=1-4&keywords=knukonceptz

?

Here's another 4ga option that has speaker wire.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005CIJBKK/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1396960996&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70

I just purchased this wiring kit - Rockford Fosgate 8 AWG Amplifier Install Kit with Interconnect

Am I totally screwed with the amp I have or will I get by for awhile? I thoroughly believed in all the reviews I read on Amazon; the Boss equipment was recommended with the MTX subs and the reviews said they worked fine together.

Awesome- thanks for the write-up. Here's the list I had assembled that everyone shit on in /r/carAV:

amp

front speakers



subs

rear speakers

wiring:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BEQWK?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_4&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FKP7TY?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_image_5&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BF0DE?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Didn't pick out a head unit yet. Are these choices as bad as carAV said?

Heres a tight 2k system in your budget, you'll be the envy of everyone.

http://www.amazon.com/Quantum-BPW10D-Inferno-10-Inch-Subwoofer/dp/B0002YE2TE/ref=sr_1_11?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1376060914&sr=1-11&keywords=2000+watts

http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Systems-IMP2000M-Monoblock-Amplifier/dp/B0077IAEOA/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1376060996&sr=1-4&keywords=2000+watt+amp

http://www.amazon.com/SainSpeed-Audio-Stereo-Player-Single/dp/B00DVGHX9G/ref=sr_1_18?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1376061033&sr=1-18&keywords=car+radio

http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-PLG6C-6-5-Inch-400-Watt-Component/dp/B0007LCLPE/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1376061070&sr=1-4&keywords=pyle+6.5+speakers

http://www.amazon.com/KIT-2-Complete-Gauge-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B000FKP7TY/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1376061086&sr=1-1&keywords=amp+wiring+kit

Step 1:
Buy dash kit and wiring kit
http://www.amazon.com/Metra-99-6505-Dodge-98-UP-Pocket/dp/B0007WTFB6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1301374727&sr=8-2

http://www.amazon.com/Audio-KIT-2-Complete-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B000FKP7TY/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1301375319&sr=1-1


Step 2:
Buy your deck

Step 3:
Buy or borrow some stereo removal keys for the jeep.
It might not need them. My mazda used them to prevent having to take apart the dash... might do some research on this.


Step 4:
Buy compatible wiring harness.
I prefer to buy these from local car stereo stores as i once fucked up ther order on amazon.
Just go in and ask them for one for your rig.

Step 5:
Once you have your deck and wiring harness solder the wiring harness for your car and the wiring harness that came with the deck together. The colors of the wires should match each other. Most will say what they go to on the side of the wire or package/instructions.
If you don't have a soldering iron you can use crimps or wire nuts... i just prefer soldering cuz its fucking awesome.

ALSO you must connect the AMP ON wire to the harness and run it through your dash to the amp.

Step 6:
While your dash is apart/ old stereo is out, you should run the rca cables through the dash and plug them into the back of your deck. Naturally the other ends will go to wherever you place your amp.

Plug everything in the back into your new deck and re assemble the dash.

Step 7:
Disconnect the negative terminal until done.
Run the large cable that was in the amp kit through and opening in the firewall in your car. Usually there will be rubber seals with cables going through them already that you can poke your wire through.... Attach the fuse and connect it to the positive terminal.

Plug large wire into the + one your amp.

Now choose a spot near your amp that is bare metal and attach your ground wire to it with a screw or something. Plug it into the negative ground terminal on the amp.

Now connect your amp on wire.

plug in the speakers to the speakers spot on the amp.

step 8:
reconnect ground.

step :9
knock womens clothing off.

Subs are easy to install, just find a route from the battery back to where the subs reside. Older cars generally make this easier. The most common way is to just go:

Battery -> route through firewall (trickiest part) -> route under carpet/trim/seats to back -> hook up to amp

what you will need:

Subs

Amp

Easy: buy a kit

Less Easy : go to lowes/menards/Ho E Depot and buy wire, connectors n' shit, plus order RCA cables n' other shit.

steps:

1. route power wire back from battery.
   
   
2. route RCA cables + remote wire (a wire that is powered on when the radio is on either explicitly labeled, RTF radio M, or power antenna works) from radio to subs. People say to not route this with the power wire because of interference which is good EM practice but I never do because I'm lazy.
   
   
3. connect everything to amp, and amp to subs, I know RockfordFosgate used to have has a good AMP to SUB wiring diagram thingy.
   
   
4. Find a place that a bolt will fit in the ass of the car, scratch the hell out of the paint down to the bare metal, then scratch some more, then sand it and attach the ground cable.
   
   
   
5. plug in fuse, you didn't put this in first did you? of course not that would be stupid.
   
   
6. Optional: have a capacitor so you have a cool led that tells you your battery voltage, so you can watch as you occasionally make it cry.
   
   Edit: If you have any questions I will certainly try to help if you ask, but as always I am not a lawyer and the above post is not intended as legal advice in your country of origin.