Ok I have moved about a dozen times in my life. Trust me I'm a pro at this. This will be long so I'm gonna divide into sections.

Furniture

• Don't buy most furniture until after you move. Why pay to move it when you can just have it shipped to your door, probably for free, or if you buy it locally have it delivered?
  
• Don't buy more than the bare necessities at first. It is tempting to make your whole house pretty, but money won't go as far as you think, and its easy to buy things in the beginning that don't work as well as you think or end up being wrong for the space. Better to have what you really need and take time to consider what you actually want to make your life better in that particular space. For me the necessities are:
  
  
  • A mattress
    
  • An inexpensive bed frame that replaces a box spring. You can always buy a headboard/footboard later. This one is great, has room for storage underneath, and it easy to put together/break down/move. We still use it for our guest bed: https://www.amazon.com/Zinus-SmartBase-Foundation-Replacement-Noise-Free/dp/B006MIUM20/ref=sr_1_5?s=furniture&ie=UTF8&qid=1539803465&sr=1-5&keywords=bed%2Bframe&dpID=41hb1VrV1NL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch&th=1
    
  • A nightstand
    
  • A dining room table (eating at a table will make you feel like a real adult)
    
  • A couch
    
  • A TV and something to put it on
    
    
• Craigslist, Amazon, Ikea are your friends. Online, read reviews critically. If people are saying it fell apart, don't buy it.
  
  
  • I have to give a particular shout out to Ikea stuff, I have some furniture I bought 10 years ago from them still in my home
    
    
• Shop Homegoods for discounted decorations, housewares, kitchen stuff, etc when you are ready aka after the move.
  
• If you need bedding Target often has cute bedding on sale.
  
  

  Moving itself
  

  
  

• Don't hire a moving company. Hire a U-haul, then through the U-haul website hiring people to load/unload the truck. You can have them load/unload only heavy stuff and take the rest yourself to save cash.
  
  
  • I did this on my last move and they moved all furniture from our 3 br house as well as most of our boxes for like $200. I think we spent less than $500 total on truck and movers (including gas).
    
  • I actually highly recommended this over moving furniture yourself in a borrowed pickup, or even yourself with a U-haul. The cost is well worth the convenience. Moving is hard.
    
    
• Don't pay for boxes. Boxes are easy to find for free. Typically I take 2 or 3 evenings late at night (around 10 pm) and just drive around behind strip malls until I find enough. (They don't put gross stuff in the dumpster, if there is I skip that one). Sometimes it only takes 1 night. Don't bother with grocery stores or large department stores, they crush their boxes. Check out liquor stores and the dumpsters behind strip malls.
  
  
  • Places I have found boxes in plenty:
    
    • Behind a Barnes and Noble
      
    • Behind a party store
      
    • Behind an Ulta
      
    • Behind clothing stores in strip malls (these are usually pretty larger, great for bigger and lighter items)
      
    • Liquor stores (they get so many they are usually happy to tell you what day they get their deliveries if you call. These are smaller boxes great for heavier items like books)
      
      
• Don't box clothes. Take plastic trash bags, cut a hold in the bottom, put clothes hangers through the hole, close the tie part, now your clothes are still hanging up but contained and ready to move. When you get to the new house, hang up in the bag, then just rip the bag off. Way easier than unpacking.
  
• Don't buy bubble wrap, find a place that stocks free local papers (every city usually has these around) and use paper to wrap your dishes and breakables. Save junk mail and store flyers as well for this.
  
• The one thing you should buy is moving plastic wrap, the kind on a 14" roll. Use it to secure blankets around wooden furniture to protect from scratches. Use it wrap any fabric furniture to protect from tears. Use it to group some awkward small boxes into one entity. I only discovered this the last time I moved and will never move without doing this again. This is the only time I have ever moved nothing got damaged, and there is also this very satisfied and "mission accomplished" feeling when your couch is wrapped and ready to go.
  
• Label everything with not only the contents but the room it goes in. Even in a small apartment this helps a ton when you unload. When you go to unpack everything will already be in the correct room. I recommend these inexpensive, color coded labels to make it even faster/more convenient: https://www.amazon.com/Immuson-Removable-Packing-Different-Stickers/dp/B07DQDSX9H/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1539805227&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=moving+stickers&psc=1
  
• Pack a box in each room of the things you will need your first night/week so you can easily find it in the unpacking chaos. So in your bathroom pack your shower stuff separate, in the bedroom your sheets, and in the kitchen keep your pots/pans and dishes clearly marked. This may not seem like a money tip but if you don't do this you will find yourself running to the store for paper plates or toothpaste you don't really need.
  
  

  Once you are in
  

  
  Don't forget you are going to have to buy things you forgot about or that just come up those first few weeks. Somehow you will move in and realize you don't have a mop, or a kitchen trashcan, or about 50 other things that just happened to be your roommates, or where the hell is the dish detergent and oh fuck I forgot that I need toilet paper and I ran out two days ago.
  
  I try to set aside about $100-$200 for these weird incidentals. If you are worried about running low buy stuff at the dollar store, you can get a better version next paycheck. Also if you are low on dishes this a great place to get some that are honestly perfectly fine. Big lots is also good for cheap dishes. Also not a bad idea to plan for the money to eat out a few days during the move when you normally wouldn't. For me its the one time I let myself have fast food.
  
  Once you are moved in, be careful about your grocery bill if previously you were splitting groceries and not just buying your own. Buying for one is very different than buying for two, easier for things to go bad in your fridge.
  
  

  Utilities/Bills
  

  
  There will be deposits and unexpected service fees. When you set up your accounts ask specifically what will be on the first bill other than normal recurring charges. Do not think the bills will somehow be half of what you used before. Use A/C or heat sparingly until you see a couple bills. Replace all your lightbulbs with LEDs. Shop around to make sure you buy the cheaper ones they work just as well and they will save you a fortune on electric.
  
  Buy a programmable thermostat if your unit doesn't already have one. They are easy to install yourself, will save you a lot of money buy avoiding running the heat/air while you aren't home, and are only about $40 on Amazon.
  
  You need internet, you do not need cable. You do not need the fancy internet plan the company wants to sell you. Start with the lowest tier internet plan and buy Hulu or Netflix or maybe both. If you have streaming issues upgrade the internet later. When you set up cable request that you not be on a contract (cancelation fees when you move and don't want it are a bitch).

Here's the blog post text:

Our wooden donation crate

Have you ever decided to donate an unwanted item only to forget about it entirely until you found it again months later sill taking up space in a corner somewhere in your house? Have you ever started to fill up a cardboard box with stuff to donate, only to find yourself taking things in and out of the box a few weeks later, unsure of which items you finally decided to keep, donate or throw away? Has your partner or roommate ever accidentally given away an object of yours, stating that they thought you had recently made passing comment about wanting to get rid of it?

If so, I have a simple solution: create your own permanent wooden donation crate.

There’s a bright orange wooden crate which has lived in a dedicated space at the bottom of one of our closets for the last two years. This is our donation box. We call it the “orange crate”. It has a sole one purpose: everything that goes in it is donated. No exceptions. My partner and I are never unsure about the fate of items which end up in the orange crate: items that are placed in it will eventually be donated (usually at the local thrift store).

Why use a wooden crate?
I selected a wooden crate as the box because those are relatively cheap, they have sturdy handles, they’re able to hold heavy items, liquids won’t damage them (contrary to cardboard boxes), they hold no smells, items at the bottom of the box can be seen through the wooden slits, and theses cases can last for multiple generations since you can easily repair them.

Why paint it orange?
I spray painted the wooden crate a bright orange so that there will never be any ambiguity with other crates or boxes in our house; it is clear that this crate is not a storage container which can be used for moving or storing various items. I never have to worry about whether or not my partner forgot about what will happen to stuff that is placed in the only bright orange wooden crate that we own.



How did you make it?

Step 1: Choose a crate
First, select your crate size and type. We went with a basic pine crate that measures 18” x 12.5” X 9.5” but there are crates made of different woods and of different sizes. Find what works best for you.

Step 2: Sanding
Then, you’ll want to sand it to get rid of rough surfaces and get the handles nice and smooth for splinter free transportation.

Step 3: Painting
When you’re ready to paint, get some cardboard boxes or plastic sheets to cover the floor and one or two sides of where you decide to work and get spraying. Follow the distance and spray patters as directed on the can. Ideally you should paint outside or in a well-ventilated space. I ended up needing two cans of oil aerosol paint to get a nice even coat on every surface of the crate, inside and out. Let the crate dry for approximately 72 hours to make sure the paint doesn’t transfer onto other surfaces or objects. I decided not to prime or seal the crate because I wanted to keep costs down on this project. I wouldn’t add any of those steps if I had to make another one; it has held up perfectly so far.

Step 4. Furniture glides
Once everything is dry, stick some plastic furniture glides beneath each corner of the crate so that it can easily be moved around on the floor or in your car trunk, and to help protect it from rough surfaces (such as pavement).

A few extra features

So, our orange crate functions according to a basic rule which never changes: items placed in it are to be donated. However, over time, a few extra features have been added.

First, there’s a binder clip which holds rebate cards for our local thrift store. It always stays clipped to one of the walls of the crate. Whenever we go there to empty out the crate, a staff member punches one or several holes in the card. Once the card is full, it can be applied to purchases during a future visit to their store. What we do is fill up those cards each time we go to empty our orange crate and then we donate the cards to a local non-profit which provides free furniture and clothing to those in need. Staff or volunteers at the non-profit can then use them themselves to purchase items for clients or pass the cards on to their clients. It’s best to keep the rebate cards with the box so that the cards can be punched when we go to the thrift store, aren’t lost, forgotten at home before leaving with the crate or accidentally placed in my partner’s wallet, etc.

Second, I also keep a stack of orange stickers with the binder clip so that we can identify larger items for donation that don’t fit in the crate. The larger items are usually kept near the crate so that they’re brought along when one of us makes a trip to the thrift store. I’m using some old post-it stickers for now but I’ll eventually get some large orange stickers that don’t need additional tape to hold well.

Finally, I have a monthly recurring task on my to-do app to drop off the orange crate at the nearby thrift store. This helps ensure that the box doesn’t overflow and that items which might happen to be near the filled-up crate aren’t accidentally picked up and donated when we take the crate to go empty it at the thrift store.


Note: This post was crossposted to r/productivity.

never done anything like this myself, but i have some ideas to get around the hologram. works best if it's just 1 small hologram.

whether it's a hanging placard or a window sticker it's the same general idea. buy some holographic stickers and use an exacto knife or whatever you can to cut out a shape vaguely resembling the logo needed. the general shape is the important part, not the fine details.

now make it look like it's a piece of shit. peel back the hologram section of a window sticker and muck up your window where it would've been so it looks like the adhesive is crap, and obscures the hologram portion of the sticker.

if it's a placard they'll almost always have a thin plastic film over it that has the hologram. use a screen protector to imitate this. now do the same thing as the window sticker, and peel back the portion of the film that would be on the hologram, and be sure to get just enough dust and grime in the adhesive so it's murky.

be sure to borrow a friends so you can measure the sizes and proportions as closely as possible.

best of luck!

Get date labels.

https://www.amazon.com/DayMark-IT111183-Monday-Sunday-Octagonal-Removable/dp/B00KY1NZI4/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1469822215&sr=8-11&keywords=date+labels

Put one of those on the bulk container you make writing the date on the proper day. Make enough for a week at a time, and do FIFO. Clean out your smaller simple syrup bottles (something like this) you use for drinks everyday (don't pour it back in, for the love of god don't do that). Voila, you are now complying with even California health code which is extremely anal.

Laminate!!!!! OMG so much Laminate!!!! And Sharpie Pens I don't need anything else! Okay...maybe some post its. Because I mean you need those...but while you're at it you may was well grab a whole bunch of amazing Expo markers for the board....but then you would need Chart paper you know...just in case you can't use the board for some reason.But then you need the star stickers because they come in handy for so many things!!!!!....>Gah /u/ichooseyoupika2 LOOK WHAT YOU'VE DONE!!!!!!!

Not sure "Why bother?" is a useful answer to a question, you want to do it, so lets figure out a way. The way I see it there are 4 options, each with varying degrees of effect on the actual card.

• Option 1: Get some sticky dots, these are removable, will likely not cause any long term damage to the card, but will fall off in time -
  not a huge problem if they're sleeved and not expensive to replace.
  
  
• Option 2: Do like they do at GPs and use a rubber stamp to mark the cards with ink, bit more messy, more permanent, but could be explained away as a GP stamp if you did come to sell it.
  
  
• Option 3: Sharpie, either a picture, your initials, or a simple dot, could probably clean it off if you needed to, but would definitely damage the card.
  
  
• Option 4: Punch the cards with something like this, definitely the most interesting of the lot, but most damage and not removable.

Blank dice and stickers. You're going to change things.

Here's 50 blank dice for nine bucks:

https://www.amazon.com/Nakimo-Blank-White-Board-Teaching/dp/B00BAKWKP2

Here's a thousand half-inch round stickers you can print on for six bucks:

https://www.amazon.com/Round-Circle-Labels-White-Printer/dp/B0731Q24NT/

​

Fifteen bucks and you've got perfect tools for prototyping. Bonus: use colored pencils and you can revise as you playtest.

For anyone interested, I bought these a couple years ago (for April Fools) and they still stick great.

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/WrvZxr/be-quiet-bl066-505-cfm-120mm-fan-bl066

plus

This or this. I can't remember which size it was, but it covered the logo perfectly.

Pick up a roll of these round garage sale stickers and just stick them to the inside cover of all your cases (or his). They should be really easy to remove once you no longer need them and they take up minimal space. They come in multiple colors too, like blue to blend in better

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BJ7QV63/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Ic0LBbWVM73ER

We bought these from Amazon: Labels


Then we slapped one on the top of each box and on the side of each box, like you say. Then we put one on the door to the corresponding room (on a piece of masking tape because it says they're "permanent" and we didnt want to screw up the door paint). It made life so much easier for us and for everyone helping us move.

Look into Boveda packs to keep those buds nice and fresh. I use 62%

For labels I use basically these, and I just layer on top of the old sticker when it changes.

https://www.amazon.com/Avery-Rectangular-Assorted-Removable-06722/dp/B004INM9O0/ref=pd_aw_sim_229_2/134-0826876-4565443?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B004INM9O0&pd_rd_r=7eeb40df-ffaf-423f-9bd7-6171e1a6d66e&pd_rd_w=KBZgP&pd_rd_wg=WBp1I&pf_rd_p=469620d9-3e90-496d-9dc8-b19f900ba5fe&pf_rd_r=6DB8HFZASEJ8AZE5ZAZJ&psc=1&refRID=6DB8HFZASEJ8AZE5ZAZJ

It's an issue with the quality control of the pods. You can order 3 or 4 pod packs and they will all have varying levels of click and drag. I've even had some pods come completely broken, lol.

​

To fix the pods that won't fit I use labels like this:


https://www.amazon.com/ChromaLabel-Color-Code-Labels-Sheets-White/dp/B019ECNM4A?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_4
(They're cheaper if you just go to Wal-mart or somewhere like that and buy a pack).

​

I put a single one with the flavor inside and write on it, and then split them into quarters and put around 3 on the other side. Makes the pod fit more snug and the drag alot better. Some pods i don't have to do this with because they have a very heavy "click" and do not have any play whatsoever.

Hypothetically, I would get a roll of vegan food labeling stickers and stick them all over their vegan food, do chalktivism outside their door e.g. “watchdominion.com”, post vegan posters on their bulletin boards, and sneak little flyers with information about the different animal-exploiting industries in and around those products. PETA will send you free flyers and literature if you ask, and Vegan Outreach will send free leaflets (minus shipping). Maybe also set up a table outside with a sign that reads, “You have an obligation to be VEGAN. Change my mind.” And then record it, build a huge YouTube channel and then run a smear campaign against their fake yuppie environmentalist carnist bull spit.

I just use these on cheap printer paper. I actually like it better than real targets.

I use half inch round stickers from Amazon. It was $6 from Amazon for a thousand stickers haha.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0731NYS7G?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_yo_pop_mb_pd_t2


http://imgur.com/a/J7ZhD4O

Put some Tape Dots and some box cutters on your order, haha.

It has been a while since I read the return policy, but last time I checked stuff had to be "unused, resellable condition" to process a return.

It's your call as to whether having a look-see from your living room is fair use. Sending items back "just because" incurs a small surcharge so you don't ding the seller's account. It's cheaper than the fuel you'd use to drive to Cabelas.

Start giving some away. That’s what I do. I got some little containers and some labels to make samples and share them. That’s the only way I’ve ever finished a full sized tub of soap.

Honestly, it's probably one of the top 5 shitiest jobs to do on an XJ. Not because it's hard but because it's so tedious.

Buy a compartmentalized project tray and a couple sheets of dot stickers.

Also a liberal application of foam tape so you don't regret being born after putting everything together.

If you’re ok with 1” rounds, how about 1000 for $9? There are other similar options on Amazon. Take a look.

https://www.amazon.com/Retail-Package-envelope-Circle-Labels/dp/B00NVKO6LK/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?keywords=mailing+seals&qid=1557264631&s=gateway&sr=8-8

Thank you! Here are the stickers I used: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0731Q24NT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Looks like simstickers in the UK makes keyboard and controller stickers already.

https://simstickers.co.uk/product/keyboard-black/

Or print your own colored stickers.

https://www.amazon.com/Coding-Circle-Labels-Bright-Printer/dp/B0731NYS7G/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=1%2F2+inch+colored+stickers&qid=1567190003&s=gateway&sr=8-8

A quick google of "round clear tape" yields

http://www.amazon.com/Clear-Labels-Stickers-Circle-2CIR/dp/B005IT1DPE

There are cheaper ones in the related-items section.

I would use something like this, available in different sizes.

You can easily buy those. https://www.amazon.com/Clear-Labels-Stickers-Circle-2CIR/dp/B005IT1DPE

As pointed out, anyone can buy stickers like that.

If MS wanted to screw you over, they would ensure that console wouldn't have a registration history, but I can't imagine a almost Trillion dollar company trying to screw their customers over refurb'ed Xboxes.

Ditto. 1000 of the cheapest paper plates you can buy, and a roll of 1" black dot stickers

I have fancy targets when I'm shooting my 308, but anything less than that I'm using paper plates

I have a cutter so I made mine, but these have been used by others: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0731Q24NT/ref=nav_timeline_asin?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Bahahaha, that's what Amazon is for!

You were THE coolest kid in first grade if you had one of these. Also the RGB star stickers.

lol I was just about to say the same thing. It's been a while since a picture has given me anxiety just looking at it. OCD is a terrible thing!

Also, while we are talking about protective cases, I got some clear dot stickers to hold mine closed on one end. They work wonders!