(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best digital-to-analog converters

Yes definitely worth it. Last year they were selling for £40 on eBay there's a few selling for £60 but they increased when Microsoft started selling them with game.

Easy to plug in (one plug), easy to place. Great for voice commands like "xbox record that" or "xbox snap (app)". Mine sits under my TV and other one sits under my monitor.

Yes you would need speakers unless you want to hold your controller when doing fitness. That's simple just buy a cheap pair of £10+ speakers and a £15 SPDIF audio converter (Amazon), it plugs into SPDIF port on back of xbox and you plug your speakers into the SPDIF converter (it has USB plug for power which you can power via any USB mains charger or plug into USB port on xbox for power). Just ensure you get speakers you can adjust volume on because you can't do it on the Xbox. That's how my 2nd xbox on monitor is setup as my monitor doesn't have built in speakers.

SPDIF converter I got was http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00IXN6L3G/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?qid=1421735558&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX110_SY165&dpPl=1&dpID=51TUrHeN9LL&ref=plSrch

If you have headphones where you need to turn the volume up to near max to get to good listening volumes, get an amp like this. If your music sounds like shit (static noise, or sounds like they are singing in a hallway) get a DAC.

Overall, headphones are what make the biggest difference in overall quality of sound, but the upside to this amp is that it will be able to drive nearly any headphones below $300 with incredible ease. So if you plan to get better headphones in the future, get this to be ready for them.

If you need/want a DAC to go with this on the cheap, get something like this.

It's super cheap and really good. I'd say most people wouldn't know the difference between this and the modi.

My new Samsung TV has only an optical audio output. I need a way to connect it to my very old audio receiver which only accepts RCA or Aux inputs.

I have found very affordable ways to hopefully convert the optical to rca or aux outputs, but this leaves me with no way to remotely control the volume (I assume my TV's optical output is fixed volume level?).

I have also found this device which could perhaps allow me to remotely control the volume but would add yet another step in the chain, add another remote to my setup, and bring the cost of this problem up to around $50. Moreover, I'm not totally sure it would all work as I hope?

I was wondering if anyone had any other clever solutions to this problem. I've been trying to find a very cheap audio receiver with optical input and rca/aux out as well as a remote control but that doesn't seem to exist for less than $50. Any help is greatly appreciated, and my apologies if this has been discussed before - I tried searching but couldn't find much.

I had the same issue with PS4 (optical->sound bar, HDMI->TV). I bought one of these and some wireless headphones. Same set up as you, but the optical out goes directly to that little doo-dad, then via RCA to the headphones. Completely resolved the issue. I haven't tried plugging the converter in to the sound bar, yet, but I only play when the family is in bed so I'd likely be using headphones, anyway. For the headphones, I just got some generic brand at Radio Shack. Nothing fancy, just needed something with RCA input for the converter. They were $80 with a pack of rechargeable batteries.

Oh one other thing...I disabled all audio processing when I was testing the sound bar. I didn't play with the settings at all after I plugged in the headphones because they just worked, but I would like to see if it still works with Dolby, etc. enabled...surround sound could be pretty neat for playing other games late at night.

Every DAC over $30 has an amplifier in it. Serious question: why do I need an amp? I don't want to run power to things unnecessarily. Is it needed for the DSP?

With woo's recommendation I have searched for a better DAC and this is what I found. Seems like it would be much higher quality given it only has 1 output type, and is Dayton Audio. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JH8BKWN/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A385A0XNQBW8HY&psc=1 What do you think?

Never heard of DSP's before - looking at them now. Looks like something I can add at a future date to improve quality and add an EQ? Sounds awesome. Thanks!

These look pretty promising for a few dollars more than the pioneers. They have mixed reviews among audiophiles but the common type of folks seem to love them. They also have a 90 money back guarantee including return shipping.

Then you don't need a receiver with all the other equipment you plan on using. Maybe a small external DAC for super cheap.

Hello, I have not tried a single switcher with audio extraction, but I have been using these devices in various combinations for my setups which have changed over time -

HDMI audio extraction:

IMAGE® HDMI to HDMI + SPDIF +... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HMVMQOS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

HDMI multiplexer:

C&E CNE46126 HDMI 5x1 5-Port... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I0XPCGQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

HDMI splitter:

Portta PET0104P HDMI Splitter 1x4... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003LMN5N8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

And finally as my audio goes to speakers without volume control built in:

Optical to RCA, Digital to Analog Audio Converter, Optical to Analog Converter with Remote, DAC Converter Support 192KHz/24bit with IR Remote Control, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FCKQPGT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_bb1CR55BuC2uP

These devices work with each other well, and right now, I am using the HDMI audio extraction and optical to rca audio converter to connect my Chromecast to my projector and Bose companion 20 speakers, and it works great!

Hope this is helpful.

Oh shit I wonder if that's why I've thought voice chat was just super quiet this whole time. I had this problem with another game in the past and I just had to disable all other audio devices which wasn't a huge deal because I never used them.

If you like to switch from headphones to speakers though and don't want to disable one I recommend getting some kind of external DAC for cheap. This one is 21.99 and unless you have a super top of the line motherboard it will likely have marginally better sound quality. You also get a volume control knob if your headphones and keyboard don't have one, so that alone is kinda convenient lol

It does make it so that your headphones and speakers play at the same time, so you'd have to turn your speakers off when not using them. But that also means that when my roommate is watching me play while we talk he can hear the game even when I have headphones on.

I would strongly recommend the KEF Q150s (speakers)
You could start with a stereo setup and upgrade over time when you appreciate and understand better.

You wouldn’t need a subwoofer because these speakers can go really low.

I would suggest getting a used Yamaha AVR in the $70-100 range or better yet a NAD C316BEE. You could get a cheap $15 TOSLINK DAC from amazon if you want to connect the speakers to the TV.

But if you are not comfortable buying used, Cambridge audio Topaz AM10 is on amazon sale for $199

Links:
Speakers

https://www.amazon.com/KEF-Q150-Bookshelf-Speakers-Black/dp/B071P6KQZX/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?keywords=kef+q150&qid=1565306273&s=gateway&sprefix=kef+q&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1

Stereo amplifier

https://www.amazon.com/Cambridge-Audio-Topaz-AM10-Integrated/dp/B00803GSBO/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=cambridge+audio+topaz&qid=1565306341&s=gateway&sr=8-3


DAC

https://www.amazon.com/Neoteck-Converter-Digital-Coaxial-Toslink/dp/B01N07LYON/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=toslink+neotek&qid=1565306409&s=gateway&sr=8-1

Edit:
Please get speaker stands to do justice to your ears and the speakers

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007P8DKDE/?coliid=I2B9E5FFVQLHR1&colid=2LH7I4PVTPHWZ&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

I am looking for a relatively cheap DAC Converter to use with the PS3. I would like to use it to take in audio from the PS3's optical output and drive a pair of wired headphones with a 3.5mm connector. I am currently using the RCA output and an RCA-to-3.5mm connector, but am unable to increase the audio volume with that setup.

I am looking at possibly getting A or B. B looks a little nicer, but one of the answers to a question mentions (possibly incorrectly?) not being able to amplify audio. A says it has an audio amplifier chip.

Would either of these suit my purposes and does one seem better than the other? Or, do I need a separate amp for the 3.5mm signal? Thanks for any advice.

I've been searching for a good cheap DAC, and I'm not sure which one I should get. However, I think I've narrowed it down to the Dayton DAC01 and the Creative E1.

https://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-DAC01-24-bit-Output/dp/B07JH8BKWN

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Creative-Sound-Blaster-E1-SB1600-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier-w-Mic-Dual-Jacks/263404658823?hash=item3d54242087:g:JgYAAOSwVF1aQd6Y:sc:USPSFirstClass!28104!US!-1

The problem is, I'd like to use this for a lot of different things...
At my desk to a 2ch amp sometimes, with my phone (USB C) into IEMs sometimes, with my laptop into my receiver sometimes...

If anyone can suggest for me which would be more versatile (or if one is much better than the other) or if any of these uses don't sound right, I would really appreciate it.

Thanks!!

Just saw some dacs support Dolby and DTS and most of moviesand TV I watch are in Dolby or DTS. So would that be an advantage over analog out of vizio TV?. Looked at fiio d3 but doesn't specify wether it supports that. But this wiistar one supports it Optical SPDIF Toslink/ Coaxial Digital to Analog Audio Decoder Converter with PCM, 5.1 Dolby Digital & DTS Support https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DZXWHJA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_xNGQzbAQKSDQA would that be an okay choice?

Has anyone here ever upgraded from a cheap DAC like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CZCYRTU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 to something that is "better quality" like the Cambridge DacMagic 100 or the Arcam rDAC? What was your experience like?
For reference, I am currently using a pair of Sennheiser HD600s, a Little Dot MK III headphone amp, and the DAC linked above. Everything sounds amazing already. Certain Adele songs will sound distorted when she hits certain notes, not sure if it's the mastering/recording or not.

Cambridge Audio DacMagic Plus, Amazon, CA (more info)

A bit on the more expensive side of your budget but seems like a quality option. Has XLR outs and is reasonably compact for what it has so wouldn't look out of place sat on a desk. Also has some sort of up-sampling. There's probably better value for money options but I really like the look of this one.

They are called A and B, not zone 2. I suspected it might have been the digital input...

I don't think I want to connect the TV by RCA because I want to keep the digital 5.1 for movies. Also I have the TV mounted on the wall, with the S/PDIF cable going through the wall and under the house then up into the closet where the receiver lives, and I don't think fishing more cables sounds like a good time.

So, this looks clugey to me, but... could I use this and this to split the S/PDIF signal and downmix it to stereo for whole house? Then just run that downmixed RCA to a different input on the Onkyo. Would that get me (for instance) CBL/SAT is digital 5.1 in one room, and DVD is whole house 2 channel?

Regarding splitting, I wasn't planning on wiring in parallel. I am planning on using a switch box that has an impedance protection circuit. Like this or this. That would prevent the burn out, right?

No line-level outputs on this model either...


Also, thanks for helping out a newbie!

Yep! That's exactly what I was doing! And it works, just...want it to work a little better. :P

My current DAC is just a cheapo eSYNiC DAC (https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00IXN6L3G/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

Would still like to replace it with one that had a volume dial (would also thus allow me to have the TV on, but not providing any audio as well). An inclusion of a remote would also be nice, but I figure those demands are probably better suited more towards an actual hi-fi setup, rather than just a quick little jobber that works.

1. buy this http://www.amazon.com/Cambridge-Audio-DacMagic-Digital-Analogue/dp/B006GJU33I
   
   
   
2. insert headphones into the hole with golden circle
   
   
   
3. connect with pc via usb cable
   
   
   
4. play your favorite song
   
   
   
5. push button called "filter"
   
   
   
6. ????
   
   
   
7. profit, you just save 20$ on book and got a decent dac with headphone out

hmm, I was hoping to keep it relatively inexpensive. I've been tossing around the idea of getting a new motherboard, but i'm not quite ready to bite the bullet since it's working just fine despite the minimal drawbacks i'm running into because i'm trying to be all fancy.

It looks like I can at least try and keep it under 40 if I get this adapter:

https://www.amazon.com/Optical-Toslink-Coaxial-Digital-Converter/dp/B01DZXWHJA/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=toslink+adapter+3.5mm+5.1+compatible&qid=1567199000&s=gateway&sr=8-4

This way I can at least take advantage of the fact that my current motherboard supports it in the front panel, right?

That's a beautiful TV. Looks like it only has optical audio output. This means whichever receiver you go with should either have an optical input, or you will need to add a cheap optical dac to convert to an analog RCA output.

It looks like if you find a decent deal on a used receiver then you can fit in a pair of the Pioneer BS22 speakers. Heck, you may find a pair of these used along the way since they are so popular, good, and affordable. Keep in mind you have to add in a couple of bucks for speaker wire if you don't have some already.

I'm not sure why anyone would hit you.

Your turntable has a built-in phono preamp, but its output is either RCA or USB. So don't get a phono preamp.

You might look into something like this:
https://smile.amazon.com/Digital-Optical-Converter-Selectable-Sampling/dp/B0055EBH5S

I would suggest not doing any cartridge or stylus upgrades so long as you're using your soundbar. Going from analog to digital back to analog is far from optimal. Save your money for a more conventional receiver and speakers rather than on upgrading your cartridge.

The 2M red will indeed work with your turntable.

>I bought a splitter and an optical-to-coaxial converter off of Amazon so that I can pick up a pair of wireless headphones.


Okay, so you have something like this. Good so far...

> I have a converter that converts optical to stereo.

Wait a second... now you're describing something like this. Are you talking about the same device in both of these quotes?

Be careful that you understand there is a fundamental difference between these two devices. One converts the digital SPDIF optical connection to a digital SPDIF coaxial connection. The other converts the digital SPDIF optical connection to a regular analog stereo connection necessary for these headphones. The former will still output a digital signal. You need something to convert that digital signal to a stereo analog signal.

Even if you manage to get the optical splitter working, you will not be able to use a digital SPDIF connection with these headphones.

So I used my JBL LSR305 to watch movies. You need to find a way to get line level outputs to feed the amp of the speakers.

There are many ways to do this depending on your setup. Also not sure if you want stereo or surround.

If your projector has an optical output you could use a little DAC that has an optical input and RCA line outputs. There are many options on Amazon. I recommend one with an volume knob, otherwise you will need to adjust the volume on the speakers themselves.

If you projector has an HDMI ARC output you could use an ARC audio extractor like this one for stereo. I imagine you should be able to find something similar with discrete outputs for surround. If your projector supports HDMI CEC (not sure if that exists) then you will probably be able to control the volume from the projector's remote.

If you are going to use a computer to reproduce your movies yeah you need an audio interface with the needed outputs and then configure whatever player you are using to use those outputs.

Hi looks like you need this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CXQ37RJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_-OpoDbAMYKWM0

By the way I’m pretty sure that your soundbar have hdmi.
Since hdmi can decode more audio protocols would be better stick with hdmi https://www.cnet.com/news/hdmi-vs-optical-which-digital-audio-connection-to-use/

According to this your TV has an optical audio output (SPDIF). You'll get much better sound quality if you use that instead of the headphone output.

Use this to convert that digital into analog (output over RCA cables): http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F4ORTZ6/

Then an amplifier to output to speaker wires: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049P6OTI/ (or, slightly cheaper in black: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C2P61FO/)

Cables you'll need, if you don't have them already, are a Toslink/SPDIF cable, a stereo RCA cable, and speaker wires. Buy them from Monoprice, or get ripped off buying them from somewhere else.

If you want even cheaper, you can forego the digital-to-analog converter and connect the headphone output straight to the amp, but if it were me I'd spend the extra $20 on the DAC.

Edit: after some more Amazon searching, I'd go with this DAC instead. A few bucks more, but much better reviews, includes a Toslink cable, and is powered by a standard micro-USB (cell phone charger) plug.

A simple DAC like that would work perfectly. I bought a cheaper one to hook my Panasonic ST60 to an old 90s Yamaha AVR. It was similar to this one. Only make sure your TV is set to output PCM audio not bitstream or Dobly Digital.

IF, you are not looking to expand beyond those towers, I'd get one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/LANGREE-Digital-Optical-Coaxial-Converter/dp/B073TXFF6S/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1511682990&sr=8-10&keywords=amplifier+with+optical+input

To hook up one of these:

https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-apa150-150w-power-amplifier--300-812

Although, if you aren't looking for it to get loud, you could also go with this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073F8Z565/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?psc=1&smid=A3DLIZX4T1QPH

The AD18 also has a sub out and a remote, but it's not pushing a lot of wattage, which is fine for most people.

If you are thinking of expanding to full 5.1 or better home theater sound, well, that's a whole different set of suggestions.

I guess it's technically a converter and not a splitter.

It changes the audio from digital (from the console) to analog (for the vest).

EDIT: You may need one. It doesn't need to be that one. Any digital to analog audio converter should work. I'm not 100% sure but I am trying to figure that out for you real quick.

https://www.amazon.com/EAKAI-Digital-Optical-Converter-Licensed/dp/B01H4XC3DC/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1505351717&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=digital+to+analog+audio+converter&psc=1

There's one for under $15 on Amazon. There are plenty more available for the 15-20 range.

EDIT 2: It looks like you will need one as the vest says it needs a 3.5mm input. I don't see where it includes the required cable even if you buy the vest bundle from them. You'd need to pair this converter with an RCA to 3.5mm cable like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-iXCC-Shielded-Gold-Plated-Stereo/dp/B019D048XC/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1505351978&sr=1-1&keywords=male+rca+to+male+3.5mm

Why not a USB sound card with SPDIF input, like this one -- Granted, that one doesn't list Mac OS support, but some of the reviews mention that it works on a mac. There are other devices that explicitly list Mac support.

edit: Or better yet, since you have an 3.5mm aux in (and the issue is simply toslink support): toslink to RCA stereo + RCA to 3.5mm stereo. No drivers, etc.

Receivers that have pre outs for connecting powered speakers can be rather expensive, as the point of having receiver is that it has its own amplifier to power speakers.

If you have some passive speakers that are as good as or better than your powered speakers, then it would make sense to me to use them with a receiver

Otherwise, here is an inexpensive optical DAC on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Avantree-Digital-Converter-Toslink-Optical/dp/B071WLVXN5/

> The rest on the left are short for center, left, right, surround left, sorround right speakers, just ignore them as you are using the ones at the bottom.

Those are inputs, the ones on the bottom are outputs. Some DVD players have an advanced output just for surround sound systems (like this one). OP will pretty much just use Aux 1 though. He may use Aux 2 but from his post it doesn't seem like it. He will need an Digital Audio Out to RCA Audio adapter. Something like:

https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Optical-Analog-Converter-Adapter/dp/B003OND0N4

Or a Digital Audio Out to 5.1 adapter if we wants to have a better sound:

https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Optical-Analog-Surround-Decoder/dp/B07CVR9R77

But to confirm, I'd need to see the digital audio out port.

Those HDMI ports are likely input, not output.

>https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FCKQPGT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_bb1CR55BuC2uP

Thank you, this is very helpful. I have a Question, are you able to play netflix with digital audio? A lot of the digital audio extractors seem to have an issue with netflix because of dolby digital plus.

I've got the same amp - I use a little usb->spdif converter, which has optical and coax out. Super nice, because all I need to do is split the coax and I can send the digital signal to the onkyo and my headphone dac at the same time.

I use this one, but it isn't available anymore. I'm sure you'll find something that works!

Are you using the TV for off-air reception? If not, try to get audio from the source (cable box, satellite receiver, Roku, etc...).

Does the TV have a headphone output? That could be connected to the speakers with a stereo 3.5mm to dual RCA cable.

The TV has a digital output, but the speakers don't have a digital input. You could get a digital to analog converter. Like this. Make sure the one you get has coaxial input.

The XBOX 360 HDMI Audio Adapter will not work. It's designed to plug into back of the XBOX 360's and won't plug into the WII U at all. You'll need something more along the lines of this: http://www.amazon.com/Digital-Optical-Converter-Selectable-Sampling/dp/B0055EBH5S
There are some cheaper ones I saw on E-Bay, but you have to be careful because more people are interested in converting optical to RCA instead of what you want so double check the INPUTS and the OUTPUTS before you buy.

I don't think the adapter is going to be your biggest problem, but how to get audio to them.

XB1 only has optical audio out, whereas these want R/W RCA hooks.

You very well may need one of these... https://www.amazon.com/Orei-DA21X-Premium-Converter-Headphone/dp/B00F4ORTZ6

Just to even get sound TO them.

If you want to be able to chat, yes you'd also need the headset adapter that plugs into the controller. Not sure if it matters which one.

I want to purchase the JBL LSR310S to go with my LSR305 however my tv only has optical out for audio. I have just been running this as my dac setup and was just curious if it will work with the subwoofer im assuming I would just plug the lsr 305's into the sub then the sub into the dac using a Y cable to 3.5mm. Also if anyone has any suggestions for a dac that supports optical input and has a remote (I need a remote seeing as this is a TV setup where I am far from the speakers) I would appreciate it I hate how cheap and flimsy the one I am currently using is, it just looks so out of place but it's the only thing I have found that does what I need. The only other one I can seem to find is this guy but not 100% sure if it works in my setup, Thanks for any help!

you can use the AV cables that came with the PS3 and use an adapter like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Manhattan-inches-Stereo-Splitter-3-5mm-Adapter/dp/B0009JFF7A/

(yes you can use HDMI and audio out of the AV at the same time, enable AV Multi as the audio output)


if you want to use the optical connection, you need a converter box like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Digital-Optical-Analog-Converter-Adapter/dp/B003O509PY

(you must disable dolby digital and dts in your PS3 setup for this to work)


you even have a third option which is a usb to headphone adaper. the adapter must conform to usb audio standard and not require any drivers, but it should work with something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8

That looks interesting as a future project but it decodes digital to 6 separate line level outputs. There was however an Amazon recommend link on the bottom that looks promising.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01DZXWHJA/ref=pd_aw_sim_sbs_328_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=2ADX548RPEEEEJN5VBCR&dpPl=1&dpID=61RFdh8mIQL

Edit: a word. Stupid autocorrect...

Edit2: a number

Thanks for the information after considering your input i will go with a Lepy LP-2020A Hi-Fi Digital Amplifier.

Can you you suggest what i should look for when i plan to purchase the Sub after the holidays.

EDIT 1: After reading your 3rd edit i will the amp im choosing would not accomplish that. So would i would need a DAC with optical input then connect the DAC to the amp?

EDIT 2: Would this work with the lepy amp and the polk T15s?
https://www.amazon.com/Neoteck-Converter-Control-Aluminum-Digital/dp/B01MXJ83G4/ref=sr_1_14?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1542311217&sr=1-14&keywords=dac

Otherwise I think something like this would work better but I can't comment on how well it works.

http://www.amazon.com/Orei-DA21X-Premium-Converter-Headphone/dp/B00F4ORTZ6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1414872470&sr=8-2&keywords=toslink+to+headphone+jack

Easiest way is get something like this https://www.amazon.com/ROOFULL-Digital-Converter-Toslink-Optical/dp/B07142SV1D it will convert your optical audio out from the tv into RCA which can go into the receiver.

Or they could just use the headphone out and cable like this.

https://www.amazon.com/DIN-Male-Playing-Electronic-Musical-Instrument/dp/B01KVIZTW4

Or if they want to use the optical out, then in addition something like this.

https://www.amazon.com/ROOFULL-Digital-Converter-Toslink-Optical/dp/B07142SV1D

Be very wary of the cheap adapters - it's not too long ago where we had a guy in here with an adapter like this that was capable of destroying any headphone connected to it, given that it output enough DC to physically make the headphone uncomfortably hot.

Since you're on an extreme budget, I'd suggest this as a safe option. It's not the final word in DACs, and doesn't sound perfect, but if all you care about is getting sound, that should do it without frying your headphones.

That makes sense. So will something like this work? And then could just connect with an AUX cable which I have on the top of the speaker correct?

https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Analog-Converter-Optical-Output/dp/B00IXN6L3G/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1478056012&sr=8-4&keywords=TV+dac

Unless your source is old or has issues, you're unlikely to gain anything with an external DAC. Still, if you want to try, you can get this optical one or this USB one.

Those headphones don't need an amplifier.

Have had the same problem. Tried everything. Diff controller, wire, settings. Nothing changed. Do you live in a multi floor apt? I read it may be a Bluetooth interference issue.

I became fed up and got this mini amp and ran a long optical cable under the sofa. Problem solved, with much better quality sound. Would highly recommend for a cheap solution.
www.amazon.com/dp/B01MXJ83G4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_OAmYCbD36DDA2

All you need is a digital(toslink) to analog(3.5 or rca) converter. Something like this. Just posting amazon.co.uk as an example only. There are other vendors that sell them. There are different brands and prices. Avantree just work well from personal experience.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Avantree-Digital-Converter-Adapter-Headphone-Upgraded-Version-DAC/dp/B071WLVXN5/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1537833943&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=toslink+to+3.5+analog&psc=1

I do that via Line In. I have an audio out from my TV via a Digital output into a converter to 3.5mm cable that goes into the PC's Line In port. Links below.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CZCYRTU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NH11H38/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015J4OKZW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Along with a 3.5mm to 3.5mm cable and you're good to go.

You could actually buy something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Analog-Digital-Optical-Converter-Adapter/dp/B0055EBH5S

I have one in my setup, works fine.

Bought this guy on Amazon a few weeks back. That tiny power indicator shines brighter than most of my flashlights.

You are looking for something along these lines:

https://amazon.com/Converter-192kHz-Techole-Aluminum-Converter-Headphone/dp/B07MPF4F68/ref=sr_1_4?crid=27BU29OQEP1Y&keywords=toslink+to+rca+converter&qid=1563574281&s=electronics&sprefix=tosl%2Celectronics%2C160&sr=1-4

​

https://amazon.com/ROOFULL-Digital-Converter-Toslink-Optical/dp/B07142SV1D/ref=sr_1_3?crid=27BU29OQEP1Y&keywords=toslink+to+rca+converter&qid=1563574281&s=electronics&sprefix=tosl%2Celectronics%2C160&sr=1-3

​

Or, if you are insane & wealthy:

https://www.berkeleyaudiodesign.com/alpha-dac-reference-series-3

​

p.s. I believe you will need something like this if you don't have it already:

​

https://amazon.com/JSAUX-Shielded-Gold-Plated-Compatible-Smartphones/dp/B07D8M5DML/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=RCA+male+too+3.5&qid=1563574516&s=electronics&sr=1-2-spons&psc=1

​

https://amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Cable/dp/B01D5H8JW0/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=RCA+male+too+3.5&qid=1563574516&s=electronics&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1

Ooh. Ok. That makes more sense.

Double amping is fine as long as the amp that is being amped is free of noise. Otherwise, you're just amplifying the noise and making things worse.

Alternative is to replace the Mixamp with an optical dac and amp that instead.

> Xbox

So I noticed the 58x weren't as loud as I wanted them to be when plugged into my elite with the stereo headset adapter so I did some searching and bought this $20 Neotek DAC someone suggested in this thread.

Does anyone have any experience with particular one or have any suggestions for xbox one if this flops?

I don't have a PC yet, just an old macbook pro.

I've heard good things about Micca OriGen G2 and it's next on my list but it's $100 and I rather not spend that much just yet.

Something like this?

I don't know very much about audio connections and such. Would something like this work?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B073TXFF6S/ref=mp_s_a_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1504645098&sr=8-16&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=audio+dac

So something like this then? http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F4ORTZ6/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=F5RM723EKG1T&coliid=I9VUQVPEWT178&psc=1

Right now I just have the Rokits hooked to the TV via RCA. Plenty loud and sounds pretty decent, but not sure if I need to go a bit further.

Sure thing! https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01H4XC3DC/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

There are two ways to connect your speakers to your Xbox:

1. as already mentioned you can plug them in to the headphone jack of your controller (uncomfortable)
   
2. use a digital to analog audio converter like this one.

Burr-Brown PCM2704C. Can be found in small USB devices like this https://www.amazon.com/USB-DAC-PCM2704-Optical-Converter/dp/B0093KZTEA

Limited to 16 bit, 44.1 or 48 kHz though. For what reason do you want/need 192 kHz?

Maybe a class-compliant USB audio interface like the RME Babyface would work, but that's a lot of money and a lot of I/O you wouldn't even use.

You need an adaptor to plug the TV's output not the AUX port on the unit.

If your TV only has an optical (digital) output, then you will need something like this (random example) to decode it, then a cable adapting 2xRCA to 1x 3.5mm jack.

Something like this:https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B01HRJ9P84/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495229400&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=optical+to+rca+converter&dpPl=1&dpID=413faJ%2BBhDL&ref=plSrch

Not to my knowledge. XB1 only has digital audio outputs (HDMI and SPDIF). You would need a digital to analog convertor to make that work, and I'm not sure what you're trying to convert to, RCA? If that's the case then you'll need something like this.

Try this (using optical out from the Xbox itself): http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003OND0N4?pc_redir=1398327977&robot_redir=1

Then plug this into your TB transmitter and device above: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0032JAG4G/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?qid=1398493800&sr=8-7&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70

Then plug in the Xbox adapter into where your 360 "talkback cable" went.

Would be a lot easier if you had a TV with stereo out.

This is cheaper but you will need your own optical cable: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007S6U7I4/ref=pd_aw_sbs_4?pi=SL500_SS115

>not wanting to adjust volume with the laptop as to degrade sound quality

Then thankfully, that's not a thing, because it doesn't.

But if you're thinking of streaming/purchasing from Qobuz, get a USB DAC/interface that supports 24/192Khz (and use balanced cables).

• https://www.amazon.com/Cambridge-Audio-DacMagic-Digital-Analogue/dp/B006GJU33I/

PS4 --Optical Cable--> DA Converter --1/8" 3.5mm Cable--> Line In input (blue) on PC.

Go to the taskbar Audio -> Playback Devices -> Line In and then right click it and go to properties. Find where it says "Listen to this device" and check the box. Be sure to adjust the volume.

I have a older Pioneer amplifier that is from the 90's that worked fine until I set up my new Goronya DAC. I set up the DAC and now there is, kind of ironically, only interference. There is no sound output at all. I have a 3.5mm to coaxial going from my PC to the DAC and then I have tried both a 3.5mm cable and the normal L/R RCA cable to plug into the amplifier. Neither works. I have tried the tape, CD and tuner inputs on the amplifier and it changes nothing. Here is a link to the DAC on Amazon if that is any help.

Yep, in fact it will record 18 separate channels if you have the right hardware - pick up a Behringer ADA8000/82000 to get an additional 8 inputs. You can get an extra 2 inputs still through the S/PDIF inputs by using an RCA to S/PDIF converter.

That's right, thanks. Is there loss of quality in the conversion. Will any DAC do? I'm looking at these two:

https://www.amazon.com/Neoteck-Digital-Converter-Optical-Coaxial/dp/B01HRJ9P84/ref=sr_1_10?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1520136204&sr=1-10&keywords=optical+audio+to+rca#customerReviews

https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Toslink-Adapter/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=pd_sbs_23_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00KNNSKV0&pd_rd_r=5XACSMZFFG8DH9JKYDGQ&pd_rd_w=pj71I&pd_rd_wg=xDbiq&psc=1&refRID=5XACSMZFFG8DH9JKYDGQ#customerReviews

A little converter box? Something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Optical-Analog-Converter-Adapter/dp/B003OND0N4

If you've got a 3.5mm headphone jack on the TV you could get a cable to convert to RCA.

The "correct" /r/hometheater way is to buy an AVR, speakers and a subwoofer, but that's obviously a lot more expensive.

If your TV has audio out then run the av cables from it to your receiver. An hdmi - av converter won't help, as your receiver won't process video. The other option would be an optical - av converter, like this: http://www.amazon.com/Digital-Optical-Converter-Selectable-Sampling/dp/B0055EBH5S

Something like this should work. The USB power would have to draw from the Xbox One, but I don't forsee that being an issue.

In your situation a cheap DAC like this will do: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MXJ83G4/
No amp required.

If you do want to spend money anyway, here's a decent one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071JN7GXN/

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IXN6L3G/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It is the cheapest DAC I could find. No volume control. No brand. I have no doubt that most people using a DAC here would tell you it is unacceptably low quality for good sound, and they are probably right, but anything is better than hearing interference from my HDDs through my headsets, and it had so far(about 2 weeks) done its job just fine for me.

Also, you should note that this requires spdif out on your tower. You can't use it USB. Because it has no volume control, you really need to at least have a resistive volume control on your headphones (to turn it down). Using this DAC you will not be able to turn the volume of anything way up, as it doesn't really have an amp.

You don't really need a USB DAC.

You could use a Mini TosLink to Optical TosLink cable from your Mac Mini's headphone out to an inexpensive converter and then on to your Onkyo receiver.

http://www.amazon.com/Orei-DA21X-Premium-Converter-Headphone/dp/B00F4ORTZ6

http://www.amazon.com/D03K-Digital-Analog-Audio-Converter/dp/B009346RSS

Would this be what I'm looking for? Or would it be something else?

EDIT: Would this work too? Or this Turtle Beach one? Or this StarTec one? Or this Behringer UCA202?

Does your mobo have an optical out? If you do, this fixed my prob, even on usb power - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00IXN6L3G

If you have a computer, get this Dayton Audio DAC01 USB Audio DAC 24-bit/96 kHz RCA Output https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JH8BKWN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_AqSHDb09AZGTC and connect it to your stereo.

Its this one: Cambridge Audio Azur DacMagic Plus Digital zu Analog Konvertieren, schwarz: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006GJU33I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_ep_dp_RrglAbZZBK58X

Dayton Audio DAC01 USB Audio DAC 24-bit/96 kHz RCA Output https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JH8BKWN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cAlHDbFPGCJ5K

Goronya Digital Optical Coax to Analog RCA Audio Converter and 3.5mm (Headphone) Outpouts, 24-bit DAC with DC 5V Power Supply Adapter and Optical Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CZCYRTU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yWgxCb7YXM5RS

This one uses USB to power, so if your tv has a USB port it can mount right to the back of it.

You need to control the volume of active speakers? Then you just need a dac with a remote

The external DAC will remove a few things out of the equation such as the TV's own DAC and the TV's pre-amp.

​

This is the one I got:
https://www.amazon.com/Neoteck-Converter-Control-Aluminum-Digital/dp/B01MXJ83G4/ref=sr_1_20?ie=UTF8&qid=1549398024&sr=8-20&keywords=DAC&th=1

Its one of this https://www.amazon.com/EAKAI-Digital-Optical-Converter-Licensed/dp/B01H4XC3DC/

DACMagic?
https://www.amazon.com/Cambridge-Audio-DacMagic-Digital-Analogue/dp/B006GJU33I

DacMagic Plus! https://www.amazon.com/Cambridge-Audio-DacMagic-Digital-Analogue/dp/B006GJU33I/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1521383971&sr=8-3&keywords=dacmagic&dpID=31tjNKUYkgL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

If you wanted to go the pro audio route, a $20 dac Neoteck 192kHz DAC Converter with Volume Control Aluminum Digital Optical Coaxial Toslink to Analog Stereo Left/Right RCA 3.5mm Jack Audio Adapter for PS3 HD DVD PS4 Sky HD Plasma Blu-ray https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MXJ83G4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Unx4DbF58YPWZ
+
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_859XLS1002/Crown-XLS-1002.html?tp=63633
Amp would get you there.

The only audio out from a TV other than the speakers is usually just an digital optical out. So you have to go digital to analog then to the headphones. So this thing http://www.amazon.com/PETDTAT-Digital-Optical-Converter-Adapter/dp/B003O509PY/ref=pd_sim_e_6?ie=UTF8&refRID=1MQT5FX839MYT5Z2G1ET

and then a RCA - 3.5mm cable.

Thats the only way I know how to do it.

Use one of these

i bought this to convert the optical to aux and I'm currently running the set up he describes. so yes definitely possible.

You would need an optical to xlr preamp of some sort. I am not well versed in these but something like this one would work. However at that price I would opt for a 5.1.2 avr. Problem is there are not any avrs at that price point that have preamp xlr outputs. For me it would not be worth that much to use those speakers on my television. That being said someone may chime in with a dirt cheap solution that I don’t know of.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01CZCYRTU

Here ya go. Removed all lag for me.

I just got an i7 Alpha in the mail today. Um... how do I get sound out of it? The only sound output is HDMI and SPDIF (which I have never used).

I use a KVM switch to use one monitor/keyboard/mouse with two PCs... 1) my gaming rig, and 2) the Alpha. The KVM is looking for a 3.5mm jack.

Even if I didn't have the KVM (which is critical), I'd still be at a loss.

To those who use the Alpha as a desktop, what's your setup?

===EDIT===
I'm thinking an SPDIF to analog converter might be the ticket. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F4ORTZ6

This is what you need.

https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Coaxial-Toslink-Optical-Converter/dp/B001622FL8

Edited to say; never mind the first part. My bad for just going by what you said "digital coaxial input"

The inputs on your amp are Analog, not Digital. You'll need one of these.

https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Optical-Analog-Converter-Adapter/dp/B003OND0N4

I have a Behringer HA400 Amp and a Neoteck Dac. Can anyone inform me of how it would be properly setup to get audio out from the headphone inputs of the amp?

I connected the SPDIF cable from my soundcard to the optical input of the DAC then a 3.5mm cable to 6.3mm cable from the dac to amp but I'm not getting any audio. Am I doing it wrong or is the equipment not compatible? Thanks