Reddit mentions: The best electric fan motors

Hub motors are between $250-$750 for example, and then you need the controllers etc, it's not the cheapest thing to build, but could be fun for a grown-up version of the rocker-bogie (1st video) of the Mars rovers.

If you are "looking for a long time project for learning", I suggest starting with making scale 1:12 models from thin plywood or something (that makes it cheap to throw the first few dozens of failures away) and use a small electric motor with build-in gearbox to get it moving.

Mechanically, if you turn the steering-wheel, you want the wheels to point in the direction of travel, not sliding sideways, and if you want a bit of speed, things like camber, caster, toe-in/toe-out get important, not to mention the suspension, and how to get the engine power to the wheels through all that wobbly and independently moving stuff, and all that.
(Lots of threaded ends and locking nuts and other weird looking thingies).

Once you are happy with the chassis lay-out, including seat position and controls etc, get a handcart or wheelbarrow with a heavy load, and measure the force needed to move it, on tarmac and in a thick layer of sticky mud, you need that info for the torque/rpm/gearbox numbers.
(there is a reason tractors have those big, wide tires and 0.1mph first gear).
If your original design size of wheels are up to the challenge, congratulations :)

For the engine there are things like horsepower/Watts, rpm, torque, torque-curve (electric vs 4-stroke vs 2-stroke), tire-size, speed, and gearboxes to match car-demand to engine supply, which you then not only have to fit inside the chassis without it interfering with those mechanical parts/movements, but it should also be fitted in such a way it doesn't fall off, after the first bump in the road.
To control electrical motors, DC, AC or stepper, you need dedicated controllers for that particular motor type, (for legal(speed and 'support only') reasons, you are not supposed to tinker with Ebike motor controls, but Google is your friend).

(And finding out at the last moment you still need to attach the exhaust, but your seat position is the only place left, does not really earn you any 'Engineering' bonus-points either).

Studying this mechanical stuff will take a few weeks, you can sort of (re-)define what your kart should look like and what to use it for, how many (steerable)wheels, kind of suspension, 2-4-6-8-wheel drive, and whatnot.

If this is too much work, you can always build a street legal VW beetle dune buggy.

> How much play in your motor shaft is there? How much runout is there on the bit at the collet? How much at the end of the bit? How much at the front and back of the collet pocket?

Enough that I can move it about .5(?) mm side to side with my finger. When I try to make a dot on my copper clad board I get a circle that's roughly the same diameter. What's a collet pocket?

> Ideally there should be zero play in your shaft, but on cheaper stuff that isn't always the case. (Like, literally zero: bearings should have some preload from installation.)

Yeah, this is a super cheap motor. I'm using one of these.

> Other possibilities: Are you using the right size and type of collet, properly installed? Is everything clean and free of dirt, dust, debris, etc.?

Yeah, I'm sure I'm using the proper collet, but I've ordered another set just to be sure. This is the collet set I have, and and these are the bits I'm using. I know these have been successfully used by others. I chose my parts off this home brew machine, but actually designed my own setup.

I have a final project that I am working on for my Engineering class (highschool class, so don't expect me to know very in depth electronics) that involves me designing a tripod that can hold a projector and rotate/tilt said projector via use of a remote.


Rough picture: https://www.screencast.com/t/PxhN879F


As pictured, there are two elements: a motor for 360 degree rotation and a servo motor for tilt. I need help with designing the control circuit for this as well as how I would make it remote controllable.


I am using...

Motor: https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-3-5RPM-All-metal-Gearbox-Electric/dp/B01MS1E3SH/ref=sr_1_6_sspa?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1519755980&sr=1-6-spons&keywords=hobby%2Bmotor%2B10%2Bpounds&th=1

Servo: https://www.amazon.com/Pololu-1248-Continuous-Rotation-Servo/dp/B0195V4JZG/ref=sr_1_4?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1519756358&sr=1-4&keywords=hobby+servo+motor&dpID=41pj%252BawpsUL&preST=_SX342_QL70_&dpSrc=srch


Things to note...

• Trying to keep it cheap so a simple two lever remote should do (press one lever up, motor rotates left, other way, it rotates right, press the other up and the tray tilts up within limit, and vice versa).
  
  
• I can't see this being used over a distance greater than 30 feet, so that's around the range I want for the remote.
  
  
• Since the whole thing will be able to rotate 360 degrees I need some way of keeping the connections to the servo motor from getting twisted, etc. Any ideas on how I could do this would be appreciated.
  
  
• The housing for the electrical components would be below the 360 motor. The picture IS NOT exactly how this would turn out, picture more of an open cylinder beneath that motor for housing.
  
  
• I only know extreme basics of electronics so treat me as an ignorant child as best you can.
  
  
• Power source wise, whatever would be sufficient.
  
  
  If you need further clarification I will be happy to respond to any questions. Thank you!

If you choose to use a stepper, I would recommend the Nema 17. This is great for smaller-scale projects like a small 3-D printer, fair amount of torque but low speeds. If you main concern is controlling these motors to a precise angle but you aren't too concerned with high speed, this would be a good choice. All the specs are given in that link. A servo is better used in an application where you just want it to be either ON or OFF. If this is a mobile robot, like a little car or crawler, I would go with the servo, here is my recommended product, cheap and strong. Keep in mind that you will also need a driver to run either of these motors. Search Arduino motor sheild/hat/driver for that.

Also, I should note that my rotor revolves at 50 RPM. This rotor is beefy enough to do an 8 pound batch (if I had a drum that large). I use Lovejoy half couplers item number 68514410208 and join them with a spider. The motor/rotor is wicked pricey, but it includes a fan to help cool it down if you roast during the summer. The summer heat combined with the heat of the grill combined with the weight of the load can burn out those Home Depot grade rotisserie motors.

When you mount it, you can use a thick aluminum that can act as a heat baffle.

Your coffee will also taste better if you buy an el cheapo $50-$99 Fiesta gas grill at your local big box store and dedicate it to the purpose of roasting. Of course you can use an old grill if you get all the grease and stuff out of it.

your in luck, I'm looking at 4 arduinos right now and literally just did some arduino coding yesterday :).

So I actually used something like these for color changing leds,

https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11450

Basically you just give them power and they change automatically. I gave them paper wings but that's not necessary. So what I would do is get a bunch of those and wire them up on some fishing wire. Not sure if that would be ideal though, hmmm.

Regarding motor, you can use anything really. Here's one,

http://www.amazon.com/15RPM-Shaft-Torque-Turbine-Geared/dp/B00EDMIH7E/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1416102606&sr=8-3&keywords=gear+motor

But I'd honestly stay away from motors to start, it makes it too complicated. At least a motor with strings, because it's fragile and you have to worry about people touching them.

Another very cool effect is bouncing laser pointers off of mirrors. You can do some cool stuff with a laser pointer and a package of these http://www.amazon.com/Round-Mirror-Craft-Projects-Mosaics/dp/B0028BVL2A/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1416102750&sr=8-12&keywords=small+mirror.

I have some case fans to buy, but I also want RGB lighting in my case. Cheapest way to do that is to get a light strip and LED case fans.

However I heard that LED fans perform below standard fans due to the lighting. Now that I have decent hardware, I was wondering if a certain set of LED fans would cool nicely enough to work and to give cool effects in my case.

Proposed LED setup: purple BetFenix light strip,
Proposed LED fans: https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-RIING-Airflow-Computer-CL-F048-PL14BU/dp/B01BYB2WE0/ref=pd_bxgy_147_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=9SSEPPSN12VCKXK877T4

Case: Mastercase Maker 5
GPU: ASUS 1060 6GB Turbo (blower card)
CPU: i7 6700k w/ Corsair h60 cooler

You can sometimes pull usable electric motors from junk appliances, and they work great for lapidary equipment. Try to find something around the same size with close to the same specs.

If you want to buy a brand new one here's something that's looks fairly close on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003S08DMG

https://www.google.com/search?q="SLIK"+"incline"+rock+"tumbler"



Someone else here may have other ideas you could try.

Good luck!

Hvac guy came out today for $75 to check out the unit, and said that the fan motor bearings were bad and the motor was heating up and needs to be replaced, and that it has caused the contactor to go bad which he said was a potential fire hazard. Said it would be 500 for him to replace so I'm going to replace them myself.

I found the parts on amazon for about $130 total on amazon motor and contactor, but I will call the part stores locally tommorow which I imagine will be higher priced. Fan removed from the motor very easily which I was glad because the videos I watched showed that some can be very hard to take off.

Thankfully I have a spare window unit to use until it the AC is working again.

if you're ever ready for upgrades, i would definitely go for thermaltake fans, they have LED Ring fans that are SUPER quiet, https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-RIING-Airflow-Computer-CL-F047-PL12RE/dp/B01BYB2WTK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1503005725&sr=8-2&keywords=thermaltake+fan , i use them and i have both my computers on my desk (one on top, and one on a shelf) and i've never heard them in recording. i have 4 in one computer, and 3 in the other.

Check out the Thermaltake Riing Trio. They're quite expensive, but they are the only fans I know of that are in direct competition with the LLs while remaining Aura Sync capable. In my opinion, the Thermaltake fans look a lot better than the LLs too, especially in situations where you would be seeing the back of the fan. To use Aura with these, you'll need a TT Sync Controller to go along with the fans.

So - here's a pic (kind of rough but you get the idea) here:
http://imgur.com/RA0FmY1

the center is a flat piece of something (rigid, cardboard, whatever) and then mount the motors (in opposite directions). Those are then connected to the power-packs (makes it easy to turn on and off and allows you to have counter-directional rotations).

Motor:
https://www.amazon.com/15RPM-Shaft-Torque-Turbine-Geared/dp/B00EDMIH7E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494449133&sr=8-1&keywords=12v+15rpm

Power switch:
https://www.amazon.com/Pair-Battery-Holder-Storage-Switch/dp/B00FHJTOVU/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1494449495&sr=8-6&keywords=9v+battery+pack

You could then encase that in your center section, extend the motor drive shaft (a dowel, etc.) A lot of this depends on how large the fins are going to be and how heavy the material they are made of (light vs heavy). Hope this helps as an idea.

u/unclebensbiggeatfan I will for sure. It's really as simple as twisting and wire nutting the correct wires together from the motor to the transformer, and then the transformer to your cord you will be plugging into the wall. Everything already is labeled. The previous commenter just decided to chime in with his electrical disinformation, so I had to reply with how this is completely safe, normal, and not violating any entry level electrical theory.

Edit : For anyone comfortable using a screwdriver the motor in one of these could just be swapped out with any 120v 1/5hp motor with a 20mm shaft that does around 1000rpm.

This motor can be had for around 100$ and would do the job.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O4XLFAI/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_nwKNDb9H9VGH3

those thermaltake ring trio fans are pretty sweet, only fans i can think of off hand. https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Software-Addressable-Radiator-CL-F072-PL12SW/dp/B07FWJ1GHT/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=ring%2Btrio%2Bfans&qid=1565263696&s=gateway&sr=8-1&th=1

You haven't specified which kit.

The ones fitted for motorization are generally older, but not always the case.

What you need to do is measure the gearbox and make sure that fits the fairly confined space.

The typical gearbox that is often used for homebrew projects is this one: https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-70097-Motor-Gearbox-Assembly/dp/B001Q119AC (the box on the back provides measurements in millimeters).

As for more generalized steps: see: http://35rctank.com/html/diy_2.html.

Tamiya's in house kits do not include suspension.

35rctank also makes conversion kits for specific models, including Tamiya/Asuka/Tasca shermans: http://35rctank.com/html/k15.html

Alternative gearboxes are also available. The hardest part of the job is mounting the drive sprockets to the shafts, and then making sure the track system works properly.

Example gearbox: https://www.amazon.com/Reduction-Geared-Motor-Gearbox-Electric/dp/B07G5XRSS3/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1537151110&sr=8-5&keywords=robotics%2Bdiy%2Bgearbox&th=1

That's possibly too wide for a Sherman, and would be more at home in a modern tank.

The easiest alternative is to find a dual motor wire control one, which is a somewhat rare vintage item.

You just need the right gearbox. Belt driven is a pain, but a motor with a speed reducing gearbox is the way to go. You can get this one at 0.6 rpm if you really want slow, but they have a 36 rpm that would be really nice. As an added bonus, the gearbox makes it really high torque. Then you can literally stick the shaft onto the gearbox.

> Then wire the positive wire on the adapter to the negative wire on one of the two fans.

Why positive to negative? It probably won't damage the fans, but they'll spin the wrong way.

> The positive wire on that 2nd fan then goes to the negative of the wall adapter.

No, you want to wire the fans in parallel. The positive output of the adapter should go to the positive of both fans.

Have you bought the fans already? You can get ones in the same form-factor that run off 120 V AC. Like this, for example.

Hi, thanks for replying!

I have already removed the blower motor so don't need the puller. The blower motor you linked to looks great! However I'm looking for a cheaper solution; would the blower I linked to be adequate? (The space it is heating is only 600sqft):
https://www.amazon.com/Smith-FDL6001A-Volts7-Sleeve-Bearing/dp/B007ATNLG4/

Also, could I use any of those relays I linked to to replace my bad one?

Sounds good.

I'm returning all the Corsair stuff I bought during prime day (Commander pro, fans etc) and going with Thermaltake Riing Trio 12 RGB TT Premium Edition 120mm Software Enabled 30 Addressable LED 9 Blades Case/Radiator Fan - 3 Pack - CL-F072-PL12SW-A https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FWJ1GHT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6-ipDbNN8SHRA

I don't want to be locked in Corsair ecosystem and want to leverage the motherboard directly.

Hopefully everything works as intended.

Yes. I think that your motor is a constant torque motor.

The replacement motor is very expensive. You might use model and serial number of your unit to look up the correct motor.

You might also see if you can find a motor shop and see if they can cross that to a cheaper motor.


Edit:

I found a cheaper motor that says it is a replacement for your motor here:

OEM Upgraded Carrier Bryant Payne 1/4 HP 230v Condenser Fan Motor HC39GE237 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MOHHLR2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2v4mDbHWV047D

Look at the top of the page for cheaper motors.

Yes, the RGB ring is on both sides not just the front like the Corsair LL120s

https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Software-Addressable-Radiator-CL-F072-PL12SW/dp/B07FWJ1GHT/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?keywords=thermaltake+tt+ring&qid=1556936136&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1

First that motor does not cost $50 to maintain, you can buy it new for $46 on amazon . Second, motors will run for more than 5 hours without needing maintenance, more like tens of thousands of hours. But last that motor isn't even the right motor for turning a machine, it's a blower fan motor, so very little torque.

> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MOHHLR2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2v4mDbHWV047D

You are an incredible person!!

It is okay that the one you sent is 1/4HP, and the one I have is 1/5?

edit: are HC38GR239 and HC38GR237 cross compatible?

I really cannot express how appreciative I am of your help.

If green is what you want why not go with some Green Thermaltake Riing fans. They are much quieter, push more air, and have better build quality.

Looks like that case can do 4 fans, here is a suggestion

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XGP5982/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_wUCvzb457SEN1

Or

Corsair Air Series SP 140 LED Green High Static Pressure Fan Cooling - twin pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L64NGBO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_NYCvzb6DZ4AQS

Thermaltake Riing Trio 12 RGB TT Premium Edition 120mm Software Enabled 30 Addressable LED 9 Blades Case/Radiator Fan - 3 Pack - CL-F072-PL12SW-A https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FWJ1GHT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1Rm.BbQK3QEE2

Thermaltake Riing Trio 12 RGB TT Premium Edition 120mm Software Enabled 30 Addressable LED 9 Blades Case/Radiator Fan - 3 Pack - CL-F072-PL12SW-A https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FWJ1GHT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_blfaCbVXVMZWV

yeah! https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-RIING-Airflow-Computer-CL-F048-PL14BU/dp/B01BYB2WE0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1499486037&sr=8-3&keywords=thermaltake+riing+14

4 of these, and then one of the same but in 120mm size.

Yeah, considering they are simply the same product with a different branding, one of them has to be reporting the info incorrectly.

Reading through the manuals, I see that it states, "For
use only with split capacitor or shaded pole ceiling fan motors." Assuming the switch could handle the 1.7 amps, I've been trying to determine if this would work with my current exhaust fan, though I've got no clue as to what type of motor it uses. This is the motor, but I can't tell if it is a split-capacitor, a shaded-pole, or something else.

Thermaltake 120's https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BYB2WTK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm going to be re-building my PC into a new case soon and I'm going to be added a bunch of new case fans. My question is this, how do I set them up to auto adjust speed to the temperature of CPU/GUP?

I'm planing on using these fans.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01BYB2WE0/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&psc=1

and

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B06XGNLTDJ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Software-Circular-Controllable-CL-F072-PL12SW/dp/B07FWJ1GHT

He using this

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FWJ1GHT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_6eh0Cb3GYSP2S

Or at least that's what I think.

Here are the case fans from the radiator.

Here's the parts list

Motherboard

https://www.amazon.com/ROG-Maximus-XI-Formula-Motherboard/dp/B07HM3FRBL/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=formula+xi+z390&qid=1566404579&s=gateway&sr=8-1

RAM
https://www.amazon.com/G-SKILL-TridentZ-288-Pin-Desktop-F4-3200C16Q-32GTZR/dp/B01MSBS0UT/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=gskillz+trident+z+3600mhz&qid=1566404983&s=electronics&sr=1-5

PSU

https://www.amazon.com/Be-Quiet-Power-80plus-platin/dp/B00X7VF9UA

Fans

https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Software-Addressable-Radiator-CL-F072-PL12SW/dp/B07FWJ1GHT/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=riing+trio&qid=1566404018&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Tubes

https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Pacific-Lengths-V-Tubler-CL-W116-PL16TR/dp/B01CVOLDTO/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1RV0TJYAN7THI&keywords=thermaltake+tubes&qid=1566404090&s=gateway&sprefix=thermtal%2Caps%2C229&sr=8-1

CPU block

https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Pacific-CPU-Water-Block/dp/B0091CW96Q/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2LHAAOYN8HZAJ&keywords=thermaltake+pacific+w5+cpu+waterblock&qid=1566404130&s=gateway&sprefix=w5+thermaltake+cp%2Caps%2C177&sr=8-2

GPU block (discontinued. Had to buy overseas)

https://www.thermaltake.com/pacific-v-gtx-1080ti-plus-transparent-msi-gaming-x.html

RGB fittings

https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Pacific-Premium-Fitting-CL-W185-CU00BL/dp/B07ND7WW4T/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=thermaltake+rgb+fittings&qid=1566404248&s=gateway&sr=8-1

90 degree fittings

https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Pacific-Adapter-Fitting-CL-W052-CU00BL/dp/B01EE9AP52/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2YNYJJVRFHVLL&keywords=thermaltake+90+degree+fitting&qid=1566404296&s=gateway&sprefix=thermaltake+90+deg%2Caps%2C218&sr=8-3

90 degree compression fitting

https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Pacific-Compression-Fitting-CL-W097-CA00BL/dp/B071YVHLLY/ref=sr_1_5?crid=2YNYJJVRFHVLL&keywords=thermaltake+90+degree+fitting&qid=1566404332&s=gateway&sprefix=thermaltake+90+deg%2Caps%2C218&sr=8-5

Pump/res

https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Adjustable-Reservoir-Certified-CL-W082-PL00BL/dp/B0784BGN6Q/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=thermaltake%2Bpump%2Bres&qid=1566404397&s=gateway&sr=8-2&th=1

Lian li strimer(24 & 8 pin)

https://www.amazon.com/Lian-Li-Pin-Power-Strimer/dp/B07FCLJYVH/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=lian%2Bli%2Bstrimer&qid=1566404435&s=gateway&sr=8-1&th=1

RGB light strip

https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Pacific-Million-Magnetic-CL-O014-PL00SW/dp/B079FVB9TF/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1KQWAYQ0R3MKO&keywords=pacific+lumi+plus&qid=1566404492&s=gateway&sprefix=pacific+lumi%2Caps%2C177&sr=8-1

RGB flow indicator

https://www.amazon.com/Bitspower-Hexagon-Flow-Indicator-Digital/dp/B07BWWBWGY/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=bitspower+rgb+flow+indicator&qid=1566404532&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyQTk0VTVVQUhaRjVZJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNjg4MjA4MU5YM1lIOFU2T1Y1MCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNzY2NTYwMTNUNk1RVUlGSzVKVCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

Coolant
https://www.amazon.com/XSPC-Performance-Premix-Coolant-Opaque/dp/B076QJ7M6N/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=xspc+coolant&qid=1566404891&s=electronics&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzSE4wTzlIUFI2VzVQJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUExMDMyNzA0QlFZME9JQlBRNUVCJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA4NDc0NzExWU45NFRORTZVNFdQJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==