Reddit mentions: The best fashion craft books

Check Craftster.com Such a GREAT website! I frequently just go to look at stuff people have made, and always find new and motivating things there. The people there are really nice!

A good sewing machine is always appreciated, and a serger is expensive and has a steep learning curve, but is a really great tool for anyone who sews a LOT.

Check with local sewing machine repair shops. They usually have good older machines for fairly little. Also check yard sales and Craigslist, etc. A lot of machines are sold with VERY low mileage, I got a NICE Singer 99K for about $75. It only goes forward and backward, but it sews through multiple layers of heavy fabrics without a stutter, which is useful for my needs. I also have a newer Singer that does zigzag stitch. Most people who do "standard" sewing or very little don't usually need the fancy expensive machines with programs and embroidery.

Sewing machines are pretty easy to use, once you know how to run the thread on and load and insert the bobbin. Then you set the stitch size and make sure the tension is ok, and then press the accelerator! I started using a machine when I was 12, it's fairly easy! I rarely change the settings for what I do on my machine, mostly hemming pants...

Gift cards to fabric stores, or maybe a class in pattern reading and drafting, tailoring, basic clothes making are great ways to help her. I know Joanne's (a major chain store for crafts and sewing) give lessons for ALL levels of sewing.

Wearing what she makes you and being willing to stand while she pins you up are both GREAT ways to show appreciation and support for ANY seamstress, as well as being truthful and supportive of clothes she makes for herself!

Some good books are http://www.amazon.com/Generation-Beyond-Fashion-Transform-T-shirt/dp/0761154108/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1260261792&sr=8-1

http://www.amazon.com/Sew-Subversive-Dirty-Fabulous-Fashionista/dp/1561588091/ref=pd_sim_b_6

http://www.amazon.com/Rip-Deconstruct-Reconstruct-Clothes-Dreams/dp/B00150GHRY/ref=pd_sim_b_7

http://www.amazon.com/Design-Yourself-Clothes-Patternmaking-Simplified/dp/0307451399/ref=pd_sim_b_14

Books in a similar vein are of course listed on those pages, you might find more titles that appeal to her. AlterNation books are good, as well as a basic sewing book like these.

An adjustable sewing dummy is VERY helpful. I found one for plus sizes (14 and up) as well as ones for "regular sized" gals.

If she lives with you, or has/wants a craft room, making her a storage area or buying shelves or cabinets for the supplies she'll need is a gift that will pay off for a LONG time!

Once she's up and running, you might offer her a trip to the closest garment district to where you live. New York and Los Angeles both have great garment districts, where fabric and supplies can be purchased for cheap cheap!

Hmm.. No replies? 8 days ago? Not sure how this snuck by me, I camp sewing/new like it's my job. Better late than never, and I'll be thorough to make up for it:

First, the bad news. There aren't any good men's wear patterns.
Just kidding. ;) I'm exaggerating, but unfortunately, not by much. Good men's patterns are few and far between, especially compared to the plethora of amazing women's patterns, and what's available is a bit limited. Judging from pattern company offerings, most men are either chefs or nurses, and they spend all their free time sleeping. There are a hundred patterns for scrubs, pajamas, and bathrobes. It's still a good idea to start off with commercial patterns though, if only to get a feel for how garments are made and how the pieces fit together. A lot of the basic shirts and pants are good starting points. Here's some of the better things available for men:

• Burdastyle - Two shirts, one interesting-looking pattern for what looks like cargo pants of some sort.
  
  
• Collette Patterns - One shirt pattern, "Negroni", in long and short sleeve variations.
  
  
• Kwik Sew - There are a few patterns that could work - just try to ignore their fabric choices. If you squint at them just right, you can see the shape of the garment and picture the modifications you'll make, and they look okay. Just pretend you can't see the hunter orange fleece and RealTree camo, and it's all good.
  
  
• Vogue - Vogue has a whopping 11 patterns for men. But they're all basics, and they look useful. Based on my experience making their advanced women's patterns, I'd guess that they have more details than other pattern companies. I would get some of these and then use David Page Coffin's Shirtmaking and Making Trousers books to upgrade them. (Both of his books have associated DVDs, and I'm a particular fan of Making Trousers. Easy to understand, lots of pictures, step-by-step hand-holding directions.)
  
  
• Green Pepper Patterns - lots of outdoorsy and athletic patterns. The Barn Jacket and Silver Falls Raincoat have potential; I think the second could be a good base for a classic trench coat.
  
  
• Butterick has the standard ugly bathrobe-and-scrubs men's offerings, with the notable exception of this interesting priest-looking robe pattern. I like it, especially with all the fitting options - look closely at the line drawing, and you can see it's got a multi-part sleeve to fit the arm really well and nicely fitted curved seams at the back/shoulders. Just not sure what to do with it, seeing as how I'm not a priest... I feel like it's got potential though.
  
  
• McCall's - Once again, ugly sleepwear and scrubs, but there's also a shirt with a western-style yoke variation, various tux accessories, simple shirt without a yoke, and this shirt, vest, and tie pattern with both a back pleat and yoke on the shirt.
  
  
• Simplicity has the same basic shirt and pants patterns, and is unique in having a pattern that includes suspenders. The Suede Says jacket looks like it has potential, if you look only at the line drawings and imagine it in other fabric, without the silly accent strips. I haven't added it to my library yet because I can't get past how much I hate his hair. ;)
  
  
• There are some very cool, non-commercial patterns floating around on the internet. You just have to find them. The Lastwear Hakama pants on deviantart are on my wish list. There's a pattern for a RAF Greatcoat out there someplace too, in case you love Captain Jack Harkness as much as I do, but I've lost it.
  
  
• I like the Victoria & Albert Museum for inspiration.
  
  
• Peter Lappin's blog, MalePatternBoldness, has a few sew-alongs, including boxers, that shirt from Collette Patterns, and jeans based on Kwik Sew 3504. (Which isn't the only men's jeans pattern in print, despite his comment -- Vogue makes one too.)
  
  A lot of people recommend patternreview.com, but I think the site is so hideous and hard to navigate that it's not worth the time.
  
  Now the good news! Drafting your own patterns for yourself is actually pretty easy. Start with ready-to-wear patterns so you can learn the basics of how you get from a piece of fabric to a completed, wearable garment. Then move up to taking a purchased garment you like, copying it to paper, adding seam allowances, and making your own version. And then from there, you should be ready to just draft your own.
  
  A couple random bits of advice:
  You need an iron and ironing board/surface too. It's just as important as your sewing machine. Press all your seams; pressing is what keeps garments from looking home-made in the not-so-nice Little House on the Prairie kind of way. Coffin recommends a dry iron in Making Trousers; I've got a steam iron. Whatever floats your boat.
  
  Make sure your presser foot is down before you start to sew. The feed dogs will eat your thread and make a snarly mess on your fabric if you don't. I had an unhappy start to sewing because I used to forget this. :)
  
  Don't worry about notions yet. To get started, you need your sewing machine, a good iron, good sharp shears for cutting fabric, machine and hand needles, thread to match your fabric, and pins. A seam ripper, seam guide, silicone thimble, and point-turner round out my basic kit and are nice to have, but you don't actually need them. You can ignore the bewildering array of extras for now and save your money. (I mark fabrics with a number 2 pencil and weight down the pattern pieces with heavy beanbags I made with fabric scraps. Heresy, I know, but I'm not made of money.)
  
  Don't use your sewing scissors for cutting anything other than fabric. I like to use a fine-point sharpie to write dire warnings for those who would even think about cutting paper with them. Skulls and crossbones and everything.
  
  Needles and pins get dull over time and aren't meant to last forever. The strawberry attached to the tomato pincushion is an emery/sharpener thing that'll keep them going a little longer, but you'll eventually need to replace them.
  
  Be choosy about who you make things for. People will ask for things when they find out you know how to sew. Personally, I only sew for people on the Kidney List, which is to say, if I would give you one of my kidneys, I'll make something for you. People are so used to easily available cheap things that they don't understand how much time, effort, and money go into hand made items. If the person isn't on the kidney list, they should pay you for your efforts, or at least trade you something of equal value.

Oh, I understood.

As for resources, here's what I suggest:

A good sewing class at a community college. I took classes at a fashion-oriented one and in under four months I had learned how to sew on an industrial machine and done several seams and seam finishes, basic hand stitches, two types of zippers, facings, a skirt with zipper, darts, waistband, and closures and a fairly complex woman's blouse (it had 14 pieces). At the end, I didn't do any of these things as well I would have liked, but I knew the fundamentals and what I had to improve on. All projects were in some kind of cotton because it is easy to work with.

In the second sewing class, I learned welt pockets, made corduroy pants with a waistband and fly, and sewed a wool jacket with patch pockets and a bagged lining. Again, I learned a lot, but there was still plenty of room for improvement. Then I took tailoring and couture classes and menswear classes.

A community college setting is good because there's a curriculum into which they have put some thought and by law, they have to make sure you do the work. It's also usually cheaper than private classes if you qualify for the in-state rate.

If you can afford it and want to do things on your own schedule, private classes are great. I would have a teacher show me how to fit and modify a pattern and teach me to sew it. One source for teachers is the Association of Sewing and Design Professionals.

Online, I recommend the University of Fashion because the teaching, in general, is very good. For pattern making and draping, they tell you the sequence of videos to watch. I think that the sewing videos aren't organized that way, but if you need to look up a technique, it's very easy.

If you want a complex project, I recommend Susan Khalje's The Couture Dress on Craftsy. Even if you don't use the pattern that comes with the course, she teaches very good methods. Couture-style sewing is actually good for beginners because there are many more steps that give the sewer more control. It was only after a basic couture class that I really began to improve because I needed to break down the process more. Khalje also teaches a lace skirt class, but the lace used is pretty expensive. As you may know, Craftsy offers frequent sales.

There are many good sewing books, but any edition of The Reader's Digest Guide to Sewing is decent. It's a really encyclopedic home sewing book. If you ever look into tailoring, Tailoring: The Classic Guide to Sewing the Perfect Jacket and these books for men and women are very helpful.

Elizabeth Liechty's Fitting and Pattern Alteration is usually considered the most comprehensive book on that subject.

All these books are available in the library if too expensive to buy.

I can personally attest that it is certainly possible to go from zero sewing experience to making mens' garments in a few years, but there is a huge, yawning chasm between home sewing from patterns and becoming a good enough bespoke tailor to garner a brand/reputation. From a basic "where do I get started" standpoint, I recommend having a go at some vests; something super simple at first (Simplicity 2346 is a great starter pattern) and then you can move on to patterns that add details like facings, darts, lapels and/or actual pockets. You get the satisfaction of a functional garment without a lot of complex technique.

When I first started sewing and thinking about how cool it would be to eventually make old-fashioned mens' clothing, I did a lot of googling for books, web tutorials, etc. on the subject... and came away frustrated because the overwhelming message was (and still is) "Fine tailoring is a trade that is still handed down from master to apprentice, and there is really no other way to truly learn it."

Which sounds rather snobby on the one hand... but on the other I think the real issue is not that the knowledge can't be communicated by any other means than old-fashioned apprenticeship, but that it's just not really worth the time and effort it would take someone to write an extensive book/shoot a DVD containing it all; there's no way it would ever sell enough copies to be profitable, so nobody's ever bothered.^

I haven't gotten into production sewing garments yet, although I do make accessories; I don't think I'll ever make a living at it, but I've done OK on Etsy and at local shows. Over the last year or so I've been thought about targeting a niche market: vintage clothing enthusiasts, but come away discouraged. While I may know how to assemble a vintage style newsboy cap or flat cap, I really don't know anything about the historically accurate details (construction, materials, etc) that vintage people would be looking for; if I wanted to establish a strong vintage style brand I would need to invest a whole lot more energy in learning all about the market, which doesn't really interest me. Similarly, even if devoted the next 10 years teaching myself traditional tailoring (cutting, drafting, sewing, fitting) I would still be lacking so much general industry/marketplace knowledge that I'd be lost trying to compete at that level.

I don't actually mean to be discouraging - these are just my observations as someone who first touched a sewing machine five years ago with similar daydreams. You can certainly learn to sew and become very good at it, and even make some money if you can find that sweet spot where you can sell your products to enough people at enough of a profit to make it worth your time and materials. But establishing a fine fashion brand requires a whole other level of knowledge outside of the nuts and bolts of actual sewing, and without making the conscious effort to immerse myself in that world (and without having the background, connections, or money to afford my own products) it's not a realistic goal. So I spend a lot of time thinking about those niches where I do have both the sewing ability and domain knowledge to tap into a market. And I try to keep making new/more complex garments; that's the other thing about apprenticeship, you spent a lot of time doing basic, repetitive tasks over and over again, far more than most people would when sewing as a hobby. Hard to become a pro at something when you can only spend the occasional evening/weekend working at it on top of a full-time dayjob.

That being said, there are some books out there on the subject of tailoring... but all of the ones I've looked at assume a fair amount of sewing knowledge up front; I've never seen a book that starts with "This is how you use a sewing machine" and concludes with "Here is your custom-drafted three-piece suit." I'm trying to work my way towards drafting by way of sewing from commercial patterns, so I can get an overall sense of how garments are constructed before attempting it myself; once you have a grasp of both technique and construction, you can start to mix and match them to get the results you want. You should definitely check out three books by David Page Coffin:

• Shirtmaking - Developing fine skills for sewing
  
• Making Trousers for Men and Women
  
• The Shirtmaking Workbook: Pattern, Design, and Construction Resources - More than 100 Pattern Downloads for Collars, Cuffs & Plackets (I've only skimmed this one so far, but it looks just as good as the other two, and covers a wide range of shirt styles, crossing over into jacket territory as well. I have it on order and can't wait to get my copy.)
  
  David also learned to sew as an adult and in the introduction to Shirtmaking he explains that the book is an exploration of how to construct fine quality, bespoke shirts in a home-sewing context; that is, without a lot of the specialized equipment or assembly line techniques that a production shop would be likely to have. It's an astoundingly thorough book, but very accessible. Making Trousers for Men and Women takes a similar approach with pants, detailing the overall construction of trousers as well as the many variations and finishing touches that can be applied to them. And if nothing else it's encouraging to see how much a person can learn on a subject as an adult!

I don't have a workspace, I just use the floor, but I can give you some book ideas. I've recently been really into learning about Haute Couture and Claire Shaeffer's books have been very helpful. I find her books super informative and easy to read, and I can easily see myself applying many of her techniques to every day sewing. The books I've enjoyed so far are Couture Sewing Techniques and Claire Shaeffer's Fabric Sewing Guide. I really want a hard copy of the latter as it's a fantastic reference, I have the kindle edition right now. She also has another fabric guide book that is much less detailed that is handy too. Another good book is Vogue Sewing which was one of my first sewing books and is a very useful reference for anyone, especially if you're following a pattern with unfamiliar techniques.

Also, don't be intimidated by the word couture. I know people generally associate it with super fancy difficult sewing, but Claire Shaeffer breaks down the techniques really nicely and I feel like I have a better understanding of how sewing works on a general level now. It's not scary and I'll definitely be using many of the techniques on my next project!

Well, you could always sign up for sewing classes in your area. But I can offer you some advice from my own experience:

Whatever you do, have patience. Enjoy the process. Sewing is not hard, and can seem tedious when you just want to see the final product. I can't tell you how many projects I rushed only to find out I'd done something irreparable and had to start over.

Save your scraps! Scraps are useful. Measure twice, cut once. Or if you're really confident in you're measuring, measure once. But I always measure a few times, just to make sure. Don't skimp on the supplies. Sewing does tend to have a lot of supplies, but they all have a purpose.

If you're interested in making your own clothes, there are tons of great communities for DIY fashion. You could even just googe "diy fashion", I found a lot of inspiration when I was just starting out (making clothes, I mean. I've been sewing since I was a little kid) by looking at things other people made.

Study your clothes! Clothing construction is fairly simple and very redundant, but just looking at how professional seams look and come together can be helpful. There are also lots of books full of easy projects for you to look into. My favorites are Generation T and Beyond Fashion. All of the projects are constructed out of tee shirts and really simple.

I think that's all I got. Hope some of this was helpful!

Definitely. Pressing is part of the process and some of the problem may be that you haven't pressed so you can't see everything that's happening.

I know of many resources. Some of the books are expensive or hard to find. You may be able to borrow them from a library.

Online

• Cutter and Tailor: Forum created by a professional tailor. Read the section for people who are teaching themselves. There is a bibliography.
  
  
• The University of Fashion. Right now, only women's wear, but it has good tutorials prepared by professionals.
  
  
• Bob Maldonado's online shirtmaking class. I like the video on sewing a shirt sleeve placket which is free. I haven't done the course, but have an internet acquaintance who has and his work looks great. You can download the video lessons.
  
  
  
  Books
  
  
• Tailoring: The Classic Guide to Sewing the Perfect Jacket (geared to women's wear, but it has very good general instructions on different tailoring styles and nice photos)
  
  
• Classic Tailoring Techniques for Menswear: A Construction Guide 2nd Edition
  
  
• Hand stitches for the fine custom tailored garment
  
  
  
• Shirtmaking: Developing Skills For Fine Sewing
  
  
• The Shirtmaking Workbook: Pattern, Design, and Construction Resources
  Some Japanese men's pattern books can be found here and here.
  
  For Inspiration
  
  
• Tailor Rory Duffy's videos on making a suit.
  
• The Notebook, a blog by the apprentices at Anderson and Sheppard, an esteemed Savile Row tailor.
  
  I can't make a recommendation for menswear patternmaking books. I plan to take a class this spring and the teacher told me he was going to follow the basic format of a particular book, but he noted that the book had mistakes.

Knit Socks is the book I learned from. It assumes you have basic knitting knowledge, but takes the process of knitting socks very slowly.

However, I highly, highly recommend starting with the tutorial sock. Use a worsted weight yarn, and large needles (size 10?) so you can see what you're doing. Once you've made a cute little sock (use it for a Christmas ornament!), then you can go full-size using the book I mentioned.

After that, I found Sensational Knitted Socks to be very good, if a bit dense. It fit very nicely with my programmer mind. :)

My current favorite method to make socks, is toe-up, using this generic pattern. And this bind-off for the cuff.

http://www.ehow.com/search.html?q=sewing&skin=corporate&t=all

These are not bad, however, in my learning experience, I have never really been able to find a good solid source for sewing videos. Most of the time, only some videos are good from a specific person or company. I usually end up just researching a certain topic until I find a video that is decent. If you are on YouTube, check the ratings so you don't waste your time with ones that others deem terrible. : )

That being said, here is a good list of a variety of people/companies and their videos.
http://sewing.about.com/od/publicationsandmedia/tp/sewingvideos.htm

Blog tutorials can be very helpful. This blog post was where I first learned to sew on a zipper. (And make a handy little coin purse / ID holder) :D
http://u-handbag.typepad.com/uhandblog/2007/02/had_a_quiet_wee.html


I know you said videos, so this may not be very helpful to you, but I learned the most from this book.
http://www.amazon.com/Sewing-Revised-Updated-Knitting-Magazine/dp/1933027002/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1311004049&sr=8-1

It has very basic and advanced techniques. It includes tons of pictures and is written so that anyone can understand it even if you have never touched a sewing machine. I've yet to go through the whole thing and is always my go to place when I want to learn something new.


Good luck and congratulations! :)

As others have suggested you should definitely check out You-tube. I would also suggest the following books:

Beginner

• Sewing 101
  
• The Sewing Book
  
• One Yard Wonders (I don;'t have this exact book but I have one similar and I found it quite useful for getting used to sewing and learning basic skills, without the need for too much fabric)
  
  
  More Advanced
  
  
• The Great British Sewing Bee
  
• GBSB: Sew your Own Wardrobe
  
• May Martins Sewing Bible
  
  Other Resources / Blogs
  
  
• Did You Make That
  
• Tilly and the Buttons
  
• Madalyne.com Best Sewing Blogs List
  
• Blog For Better Sewing
  
• Coletterie - How to build sewing skills if you are an absolute beginner.
  
• Burda Style - Projects and tips for beginner sewers
  
  I hope this helps you get started.

I dunno, I think it comes down to learning styles - I'd take a book over a video 9 times out of 10, and I get frustrated when I search for a technique and just get video results :P

Anyways, OP, I liked the patterns in Knit Socks!, but I was already pretty familiar with sock construction so I don't know how helpful the 'how-tos' really are for a beginner. The Amazon reviews are pretty glowing though :P On the other hand, though, it's all one-at-a-time top-downs...

Are you wanting to learn a bunch of different constructions? I think maybe the best thing would be going to the bookstore and flipping through some likely suspects - I.e., does it have a long section on TAAT toe-ups, or does it have one vanilla construction with a few textures thrown on? In the index, how many heels does it mention? (There is no 'best heel', because feet are actually pretty weird in their own way, so it's best to try out a bunch!) And if all else fails, Knitty has spent the last 10ish years reviewing books as they come on the market; I'm sure reading through a few of those would give you a good idea of what to look for, even if you didn't find the perfect title!

If it's very worn out, you can pick it apart, but some people think it's better to copy the garment when it's intact because you can see how it was put together. Patterns from Finished Clothes is a good book on how to make a rub-off. The clothes in the photos are dated, but the instructions are better than in any other book I've found.

Start by making some muslins. Mike Maldonado has free and for-fee videos on shirt making that are very good. You also may able to get some help from the Cutter and Tailor forum.

David Page Coffin, a former Senior Editor at Threads Magazine, has made a video on copying a shirt. I would treat it as an overview. In my experience, it's not as easy as it looks.

What about this pattern? Took me about 4 month of trial an error to learn to sew. and the whole thing was handsewn. Ended up remaking it and it took 6 months of off and on sewing while I was working 50-60 hr weeks at a new job. Three may be a stretch but one by 2016 by hand sewing and not knowing up from down sounds perfectly doable. The Vogue Sewing book was a tremendous help in learning and and i like the old copy from the '70s that i have more than the modern one. There are some content differences but no egregious omissions.

Honestly, $335 seems more than reasonable for a tailored item. 2 years is a long time to save up. I would probably charge more if I did the commission (sorry, i don't take commissions right now). Looking at the other items on that etsy page, the sewing quality could be better but its not terrible. The fit of the Narnia dress is too baggy for a custom item and that's with the back completely cinched tight. You can see a bit of seam puckering along the back seams and front neck line. The last picture of the Girls Civil war dress are a it suspect . Quality of the top looks pretty bad but that could be due to it being way too big or not so great posture on the girl.

Find someone local for the commission if you can. Even the best seamstress in the world wouldn't be able to tailor the suit to your body from across the webs.

For young people, certain things just look like you’re trying too damn hard: bowties, pocket squares, French cuffs, white collars on a colored shirt, suspenders, wide-spread collars, vested suit (sometimes), etc.

It’s easy to blame other people, but your clothes are prompting their reaction. I don’t know you and I don’t know the way you dress. But perhaps you should think about trying to be more subtle: buying nice clothes that aren’t at all ostentatious. Don’t wear bowties if, when you wear one, people make comments.

In my opinion, the majority of advice on MFA will make a high school or college students look good for other high school or college students. If I wore my pants below my natural waste or if I wore wingtips or a bow tie, the men at my work would think I was an immature, insecure, hipster douche bag. There is nothing wrong with those things, but dress to your audience. Being stylish, being able to express your own, personal style, within the bounds of what’s acceptable to your peers is a true and worthy challenge. An artist is limited by the artistic media he chooses to work with. So to, you are limited by your lifestyle, income, peer group, profession, region, etc. Strive to be stylish and express yourself within you lifestyle’s bounds. Then you will look good without looking like you’re wearing a costume to try to look good.

If following the advice on this forum is getting criticism, I’d like to suggest some alternative sources for advice:

http://www.amazon.com/Dressing-Man-Mastering-Permanent-Fashion/dp/0060191449/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1344004043&sr=8-1&keywords=allan+flusser

http://www.amazon.com/Clothes-Man-Principles-Fine-Dress/dp/0394546237/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1344004043&sr=8-2&keywords=allan+flusser

http://www.amazon.com/GENTLEMAN-TIMELESS-GUIDE-FASHION-Ullmann/dp/3833152702/ref=pd_bxgy_b_img_b

http://www.amazon.com/The-Suit-Machiavellian-Approach-Style/dp/0060891866/ref=pd_sim_b_7 (especially the chapter for “young” persons)

http://www.amazon.com/Elegance-Menswear-G-Bruce-Boyer/dp/0393304388/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1344004086&sr=1-1&keywords=bruce+boyer

http://www.amazon.com/Eminently-Suitable-G-Bruce-Boyer/dp/0393028771/ref=sr_1_3?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1344004086&sr=1-3&keywords=bruce+boyer

Your library should have these, as they are menswear “classics.” The books are well-written and, though older than something like “Esquire The Handbook of Style,” the advice is better. How to dress well is a timeless art.

New Complete Guide to Sewing for general sewing techniques.

For tailoring men's clothes, Classic Tailoring Techniques (and women's.)

For pattern drafting, Winnifred Aldrich has a great line of books.
There's also Fundamentals of Men's Fashion Design, casual and tailored. As well as Patternmaking for Fashion Design.

For corsets, Waisted Efforts and The Basics of Corset Building are good.

For making shirts, Shirtmaking.

For learning to sew stretch/knit fabrics, Sew U: Home Stretch is pretty good.

And for just having a bunch of fun with patterns, the Pattern Magic series is plain awesome. I think there's three of them out now.

Edit: thought of more!

The Art of Manipulating Fabric is great. And www.threadsmagazine.com as well as the corresponding print publication.

This is an incredibly broad question since fashion is changing notable every decade during that time period. If you are looking for a general costume history overview of the pre-modern era I'd start by looking for some books in your local library. They're generally vague and sometimes use outdated ideas, but it's always a good base to start with. Sometimes even Barnes & Noble carries "Fashion", a book covering some of the Kyoto Costume Institutes collection from 18th-20th c. From there, researching original garments on museum collection websites or portraiture and fashion plates can give you a more detailed idea of the styles once you know the garment names and basic shapes. The Met Museum and the V&A have two of the largest online collections. Pinterest is also very helpful for this kind of search, though things are not always well documented and modern reproductions slip in occasionally. There are also many in-depth books on these eras, though none that covers the whole of it in great detail.

The Tudor Tailor, Seventeenth-century Women's Dress Patterns Book One and Book Two, and What Clothes Reveal are some of my often referenced books. There are many more depending on whether you are more interested in the clothing construction side, the high fashion, textiles, or trade and everyday wear.

I have been sewing for what seems like forever. I mostly sew clothing, corsets and costumes and have done a lot of embellishments. Not sure what types of projects you’re interested in but the book Couture Sewing Techniques by Claire Shaeffer is a must have for anyone wanting to learn hand sewing techniques as it applies to sewing clothing. Its beautifully illustrated, has clear photos and easy to read instructions to learn and apply any and all of the sewing techniques you would want or need to create a couture garment. The book shows everything from the most basic stitches to advanced techniques.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Couture-Sewing-Techniques-Revised-Updated/dp/1600853358/ref=pd_sbs_14_1/259-1357415-7367116?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=1600853358&pd_rd_r=4d9997ec-7940-11e9-a9b2-57670b156927&pd_rd_w=NWeji&pd_rd_wg=fgcr5&pf_rd_p=18edf98b-139a-41ee-bb40-d725dd59d1d3&pf_rd_r=397B75RS3KFC698DJWNG&psc=1&refRID=397B75RS3KFC698DJWNG

If you are trying to be frugal about it, sewing your clothes isn't the way to go. It may be good to learn a lot of mending techniques and how to alter clothing.

Answering the actual question:

I second Craftster.org, but also Burdastyle has a ton of free patterns that you can cut out. The two books I refer to most for information are teh vogue guide to sewing (which as an almost encyclopedic how to on every basic thing you would need to know) and the High fashion sewing, which helps you refine your skills by teaching how to correctly do different seams (also explains when and why you would use them.)

Vogue book:http://www.amazon.com/Sewing-Revised-Updated-Knitting-Magazine/dp/1933027002/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1269758900&sr=8-1

High fashion:http://www.amazon.com/Fashion-Sewing-Secrets-Worlds-Designers/dp/1579544150/ref=pd_sim_b_28

You can definitely get teh vogue one at teh library.

Another thing I would highly recommend is to purchase a serger. It cuts down on time and finishes all of your seams to keep things from raveling. It can cost a decent chunk up front, but if you are planning to make clothes, I've found that it keeps them neat on the inside and makes them last longer to fave nicely finished seams.

May I make the radical suggestion of learning to sew yourself?

There are classes, and once you have a sewing machine, it's relatively easy to start to make things from patterns - maybe try somthing simple first, and then move onto editing or even making your own patterns from clothing scaled up or down in the right places (I'm currently doing this with a project, and it's relatively easy using deconstructed clothing [a footed sleeper in my case] as a good starting point.

If you need more information on this kind of subject, books such as the Readers Digest guide to Sewing ( http://www.amazon.co.uk/Readers-Digest-Complete-Guide-Sewing/dp/0276446410/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1325004944&sr=1-1 ) or the Vogue sewing guide ( http://www.amazon.co.uk/Vogue-Sewing-revised-updated/dp/1933027002/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1325004950&sr=1-1 ) tend to be fantastic (I own older editions of both of these books, and they are well worth getting!).

Other than that, I'm sure that some of the shops like Privatina may well be able to help you if you send them an email...

I couldn't find my old posts (weird), but here's a progression. Do not jump to the next step until you can do a really good job at your current level.

I realize it may not be possible, but look for classes or seminars.



Man's cotton shirt with collarband, collar, tower sleeve placket, curved hem.

Man's trousers in wool.

Man's vest in wool and lining fabric.

Skills related to a man's jacket (double piped pocket samples, pocket flaps, vents, pad stitched lapel sample).

Jacket.

Books:

Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Sewing (general sewing)

Classic Tailoring Techniques for Men: A Construction Guide

Tailoring: The Classic Guide to Sewing the Perfect Jacket

Shirtmaking: Developing Skills for Fine Sewing

Online:

Mike Maldonado's shirt making videos and his video courses

The Cutter and Tailor forum (Read the section on how to teach yourself tailoring)

The Bespoke Cutter and Tailor forum (less strict than the forum above)

Rory Duffy's online videos (They are beautiful, but not in-depth enough to teach yourself).

The Notebook, a blog by Anderson & Sheppard, a Savile Row firm.

Made by Hand, a blog by Jeffery Diduch.

I don't know how much you know about corset making, but I recommend you use coutile or duck cloth to reenforce your corset. I'm also a big fan of steel bones if you aren't already using them. http://www.corsetmaking.com/ and http://www.voguefabricsstore.com/ are both great suppliers of quality corset making supplies. This is also a good book about corset construction, it's basic, but through. Sorry if I'm saying things you already know. Your corset is beautiful!

I agree with all of the answers here. Having never sewn before, it's a huge undertaking making this self-drafted. Your best bet is to take an existing pattern, perhaps something like this, and modifying it. I also highly recommend this book which will help with altering features such as necklines, sleeves, bodices, etc. Take your time and make a muslin test before diving in. Good luck.

Mock up, mock up, mock up. You will need a fitting buddy. And you will want to fit it WITH bones (just slam on some tape for channels and slide them in). Most dress forms tend to be less than useful for checking these, as they are not squishy enough.

Linda Spark's book is more geared towards victorian corsets, but has a lot of good, basic info on materials and finishing. It also talks about mock-ups and fitting - not all of the notes will apply for this period, but it is a good point of reference.

The best material for a corset is a coutil - it is a twill weave with minimal stretch. You can get it in a basic finish, and do it with a fashion fabric, or Farthingales has some absolutely beautiful brocades and other fancies. They are expensive, but you don't need a lot of fabric for a corset.

When it comes to boning, some folks will say zip ties - these are cheaper, but I prefer spiral steel for this period. Spring steel/flat steel is fine for later periods, but 18th tends to have the bones closer together so you want something with a bit more give.

Ok, I know this is a little pricey, but this book comes with a ton of patterns you can mix and match, which rocks. They fully explain everything, and you can create your own patterns based on the basic ones they give you (you alter a muslin to be the perfect fit for you and BAM, you have your own custom fit pattern). I am super slowly working my way through this book, it's just taking me ages because I don't really have a good place to work.

Sweater Design in Plain English is a great resourse, though it may be more detailed than you really want. (It goes into how to design a sweater from scratch.)

Knit to Flatter goes into ways to modify existing patterns by changing details like length and necklines. I don't think it talks about sleeves much, though.

Knitty has an archive of Thinking Beyond the Pattern articles, which go into a great deal of pattern modification, including sleeve types. (The articles are listed in reverse chronological order, so it makes more sense to read them from the bottom up.) I think this is your best starting point, plus it's free!

Actually I'm going to tell you NOT to start by altering your own clothes. It is actually easier to make something new than to alter clothing. I suggest you learn to sew from the following books: The Colette Sewing Handbook by Sarai Mitnik, the SEW Everything Workshop by Diana Rupp and Stitch by Stitch. All three of these books come with patterns for all sorts of projects. Once you graduate to some harder things, and especially if you are interested in sewing 1950s-inspired retro clothing, try Gerties New Book for Better Sewing By Gretchen Hirsch. This book has beautiful patterns and also helps with more couture techniques. Happy sewing!

For books I highly suggest the following books:
http://www.amazon.com/Couture-Sewing-Techniques-Revised-Updated/dp/1600853358/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1372453039&sr=8-1&keywords=couture+sewing
http://www.amazon.com/Complete-Photo-Guide-Perfect-Fitting/dp/1589236084/ref=pd_bxgy_b_img_y

The first one is great if you ever have an interest in doing high end stuff properly, and the second one is just super useful. Great guide to altering existing patterns and making your own!

I haven't started to make my own clothes, but I have taken some in which improve the fit tremendously. I plan on making some pants and I've found the resources below that have been recommended to me either here on reddit by the r/tailor or r/sewing sub and have purchased the books but haven't had time to test out my skills.

Teach Yourself VISUALLY Fashion Sewing

Making Trousers for Men & Women: A Multimedia Sewing Workshop

Joost - Trousers from scratch

How to Tailor Your Own Clothes


Good luck!

edit: formatting

That's the only one that ever jumps to mind when I'm looking for a neatly packaged example of why books are good -- you can school yourself on stuff like names for different kinds of collars for better keyword use. Just put something like this next to your toilet, force yourself to look at it regularly. ("Ask Andy About Clothes" is a good on-line resource. /r/malefashionadvice is a useful thing to browse to find out what's in current demand.)

I'm going to plug this book since it was written by my brilliantly talented sewing teacher. It has just gone into its second printing, so it is on backorder, but well worth the wait. It really has everything you need to understand and manipulate a pattern to fit yourself. I can't recommend it enough. You will love having well-fitting patterns so much!

http://www.amazon.com/Complete-Photo-Guide-Perfect-Fitting/dp/1589236084/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1335300541&sr=8-1

My first sweater experience was with Elizabeth Zimmerman's great, clear instructions for an easy basic sweater in this book. I'd highly recommend it.

All the best!

I'd recommend picking up a sewing book that comes with patterns, like the Colette sewing Handbook or BurdaStyle Sewing Handbook

I have both. The Colette book is laid out kind of like a lesson plan where you sew all the projects in order, and they gradually introduce new techniques. They cover a lot on fitting, but not a ton on modifying the pattern to look different.

The BurdaStyle book is laid out in a more "traditional" way, so all the reference stuff is at the front, then they move onto the patterns. The book has great details and ideas on changing up the patterns to suit your preference.

I also picked up Gertie's New Book for Better Sewing recently, which if you're into vintage style clothing, I'd recommend you pickup later on. (it's a more intermediate-level book, so I would recommend working on other patterns first.)

I really like the Knitter's Handy Book of Patterns for things like this.

It's basically a book of recipes. You plug in your gauge, and the size that you want, and it tells you how many stitches to cast on, where to put your decreases, etc. It tells you a lot of about things are actually constructed, so that you can take it and make your own patterns from there.

It does require swatching. So you'd have to find or create your own cable pattern, swatch, get the gauge in pattern, and then work out how to make your hat. And don't forget to swatch in the round if you're going to be knitting in the round!

Also, here's a Rav search for free, cabled, fingering weight hats, in case you spot something there that you didn't spot yesterday. Sometimes a second look can help. :)

Both Vogue and Readers Digest have pretty good books that cover a majority of techniques. That will cover the basics, but if you think she would like something a little more fun and less textbook-y, you could try this and this. The authors both have blogs that I follow, and I really like them!

I don't know my model number by heart either... Hm youtube videos have helped me loads too! And books! I got this one and it's proven quite helpful and fun. Maybe you could get one on quilts if that's what you wish to do?

I have a copy of The Knitter's Handy Book of Patterns by Ann Budd, and it is more or less the only knitting book you really need. Basic patterns for socks, gloves, mittens, hats, sweaters, in multiple sizes and gauges, you just figure out your gauge(which it explains super clearly) pick a size, and then start knitting. Add whatever fancy touches you want, that you saw online. XD I'm doing a pair of fingerless gloves with a lattice cable right now, from the basic glove pattern.

While I'm sure there are other fab resources out there, this is the only one I actually own and it hasn't steered me wrong yet. So I can only vouch for this being a solid investment.

No problem, let me know if you have any other questions. Pyrogirl mentioned this book, which I bought for a class. It's quite excellent and has good descriptions of techniques if you're interesting in high-end sewing.

In addition, the same author has a book about working with various types of fabric. You can find the page on lace here.

You may have some difficulty marking the lace as normal home-sewing techniques (wax paper, pencil, chalk, etc) dont like to show up on sheers. If you're up to it, thread-trace everything. This will yield the best results but can be time consuming as hell, especially if you're not used to hand basting. Otherwise, mark with pins or safety pins.

If you're working off of a commercial pattern, you can simply aline edges instead of marking stitch lines, but make sure to take a good look at the seam allowance before hand. Most commercial patterns have 5/8" allowance, more than enough to finish with a 1/4" french seam, but it's always good to check.

Most of the information you'll find about historical fashions online are meant to help to recreate the garments. The most popular periods to recreate tend to be those that are tied to re-enactment groups. For the 1650s, you won't find much; however, just a decade earlier was the English Civil War for which there are a lot of re-enactment groups like this one. Since it's only a decade off, members of the group may have some stuff online that may help you. Here is a good blog to get you started.

In the meantime; here are some books that will help:

17th C Women's Dress Patterns: part 1

17th C Women's Dress Patterns: part 2

17th & 18th C Fashion in Detail

Glasgow Museums 17th C Costume

Just to get started. I personally own pretty much all of these. You notice a fashion shift in the 17th C starting around the mid 1620s and continuing well until 1680s. That isn't to say you could wear the same style garment throughout that time period - just that what is worn from that point couldn't be mistaken for the century before or after. Similar to in the 20th C, no one would blink about a just below the knee skirt from the 1920s on.

Construct a full pair of pants for yourself from a pattern as a muslin and then use that to tailor. To size down it's a lot easier once you know how pants are constructed and there's essentially only three places that get trimmed. If the pants have butt pockets like jeans style then you shouldn't go down more than 3 sizes but for dress slacks you can essentially whittle them down as far as you like.

Here's a very good sewing book I recommend https://www.amazon.com/Sewing-Revised-Updated-Knitting-Magazine/dp/1933027002/

What kind of sewing are you interested in? Is there something you want to be able to make? I make quilts, and I am teaching myself how to make clothing so I recently picked up a few books to help me improve my skill and I really enjoy them.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1589235126/ref=oh_details_o06_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1589234340/ref=oh_details_o06_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1574327968/ref=oh_details_o06_s00_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1933027002/ref=oh_details_o06_s00_i03?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You're welcome. You might also enjoy Claire Shaeffer's The Couture Cardigan Jacket (along with the rest of her couture sewing series -- it's amazing). She also drafted a pattern for that jacket; all of her patterns for Vogue have amazingly detailed instructions for getting a beautiful fit and finish.

Do find your local sewing shop and get the serger in to be looked at. Once it does what you want it will do it FAST and it's perfect for knit clothing.

Tracing existing garments to make clothing is hard! That's why so many flat patterns sell. If you don't want to work with a commercial pattern to start with, consider picking up a good reference book for making knock-off garments (like https://www.amazon.com/Patterns-Finished-Clothes-Re-Creating-Love/dp/0806948752).

(And get yourself a nice french curve for making your seam lines nice and pretty.)

MAKEUP!! I'm a huge fan of it in general, loving NYX and BH Cosmetics at the moment.

Also super cool that you get to learn about lasers and microscopes, I'm a little jealous.

Sewing is tricky! I highly suggest checking out Vouge Sewing it really helped me a lot with understanding how to alter patterns, and determining how to figure out what part of the dress is or isn't fitting right.

This is gorgeous!

I grabbed links a couple of books you might be interested in, if you haven't found them already.

adapting/altering sewing patterns and couture finishing techniques

I found them when I decided to challenge my sewing skills. I really enjoy them both.

Maggie Righetti - Sweater Design in Plain English.

Give the seaming some love. Don't limit yourself to things that don't need it - you'll miss out on lots of great garments. Mattress stitch is pretty magical. Try this one:
Wiseman's The Knitter's Book of Finishing Techniques

I bought The Knitters Handy Book of Patterns on a whim, and now I've got the sweater one and the top down sweater one too. I love them so much. I'm tall so I was constantly having to adjust patterns and it was driving me mad, paying £5+ for a pretty cardigan pattern then having to re-write most of it to make it fit! Now I don't bother, I make my own patterns to fit me properly.

The Reader's Digest Guide to Sewing is comprehensive; many people prefer the older editions. I'd also recommend:

Shirtmaking by David P. Coffin

Classic Tailoring Techniques for Menswear: A Construction Guide 2nd Edition
http://www.amazon.com/Classic-Tailoring-Techniques-Menswear-Construction/dp/1628921706/ref=dp_ob_title_bk

Tailoring: The Classic Guide to Sewing the Perfect Jacket
http://www.amazon.com/Tailoring-Classic-Sewing-Perfect-Jacket/dp/1589236092/ref=tmm_pap_swatch_0?_encoding=UTF8&qid=1459466582&sr=8-2


Learn how to use a sewing machine. Learn basic hand stitches. Buy a commercial trousers pattern and have someone fit it on you. Sew it over and over while you build up your skills.

Join the Cutter and Tailor forum. Read the rules carefully. You will only be able to post about shirts, vests, and trousers initially, but if you are serious there are many helpful people over there.

They both look like princess-seamed bodices with V necklines. One is a halter top, and the other looks like a regular bodice. You could make both dresses from the patterns in the book Sew Many Dresses which is also chock-full of information on fabrics, fitting, adjustments, and hacking. Just be sure to make a muslin before you cut into your gorgeous fabric!

A guide to making my own corsets is pretty unique, right?

Honestly, I've not gotten any comics in a while, because the comic book stores here tend to stock the more generic types. I like when a book has some sort of humour- if it's just "oh my gawd life is so angst" all the time, I get bored. Representation is key- it's nice when there are female characters, LBGT characters, what have you, who have other traits beside stereotypes. And I also quite like stories that I can see happening right now- I'm a sucker for any sort of fantasy that takes place just under the radar of modern life, you know?

I bought this book. I recommend Truly Victorian patterns. They are copied from period patterns and have fine details that will lend a look of authenticity to your stuff. For instance, in order to help with fit the sleeve at the top of the shoulder is angled from the neck to the back of the arm (varying degrees depending on the year) which makes that top of the shoulder on the bias. A modern pattern maker won't do that, but the Truly Victorian ones will.

I have this book: One yard wonders And it is awesome. Full of simple projects. Clear instructions on sewing basics. A lot of the projects are very cute.

I love the book One Yard Wonders. It has a great variety of projects, from cute plushies to clothes for grown-ups and kids to household items. Plus, it includes all the pattern pieces. It's really good for beginners, but not so simple that your friend would get bored with it.

I am SO with you. It drives me crazy when I can't get things to match up the way I want them to. Very precise cutting helps (I am so bad at scissors!), as does using tailor tacks instead of chalk/pen markings. The best way to get perfect matching seams is (after you have precisely cut and marked) to hand baste instead of pinning, and to always baste and ease your curves. Since all of that is time consuming I tend not to do any of it and then curse myself later.

Book recommendation!

I always recommend the Reader's Digest Guide and Vogue Sewing to anyone looking to start a sewing library. They cover very similar ground, so take a look inside each. I prefer Vogue most of the time, but it all depends on how she learns best.

I like the book "One Yard Wonders" - http://www.amazon.com/One-Yard-Wonders-Sewing-Fabric-Projects/dp/1603424490/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1322711978&sr=8-1

also, check out http://sew4home.com/ - i made a lot of patterns from this site, it's a great source!

I found a copy of Knitting Without Tears by Elizabeth Zimmerman at the used bookstore for ~$3! It's been on my Amazon wish list for awhile now, so I was super excited when I saw it on the shelves.

On a related note, I have a really excellent book on couture fashion that I'd recommend you know more about this
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/1600853358/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_2cwaCbDSE1186

Thanks! The bags are out of this book which has some really cute projects in it.

I have an old Vogue Sewing book. It is fantastic for techniques and fabrics and pattern help.

http://www.amazon.com/Sewing-Revised-Updated-Knitting-Magazine/dp/1933027002

This is my go-to book when I need an answer.

I taught myself to knit socks using the book KNIT SOCKS! It's even shaped like a sock (the book is). I found the instructions to be very helpful, and the patterns are varying levels of difficulty in case you want a challenge.

Here it is on Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/Knit-Socks-Betsy-McCarthy/dp/1580175376/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1416946884&sr=8-4&keywords=knit+socks

My sister got me this book for Christmas last year and it sounds like it's right up your alley:
Sew Many Dresses, Sew Little Time: The Ultimate Dressmaking Guide https://smile.amazon.com/dp/0770434940/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_K146BbPZAB490

It has instructions for several styles of bodice, skirt, and necklines. It should give you a good start on bringing your design to life!

I recommend David Page Coffin's shirtmaking or trousers books. Plenty of helpful tips, equipment suggestions, guides on how to do small things, and you'll be able to wear what you make.

Shirts: https://www.amazon.com/dp/1589238265/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VafJDbJPXMT7P

Pants: https://www.amazon.com/dp/1589234499/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_HbfJDbGG1FTAA

Bridal Couture by Susan Khalje has a great section about working with lace, as does Couture Sewing Techniques by Claire Schaeffer.

Gertie's book is wonderful, I've been able to learn so much from it! She also has a blog.

I started out by sewing potholders and burp-rags -- rectangles and squares are definitely the easiest things to sew. I can send you the tutorials that I use when I get home (they're save to my favorites). I use Pinterest quite a bit to come up with ideas. I also bought [this One Yard Wonders book] (https://www.amazon.com/Publishing-One-Yard-Wonders-Patricia-Hoskins/dp/1603424490/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484607417&sr=8-1&keywords=one+yard+wonders), but I haven't made anything from it yet.

I would recommend the following books:

New Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Sewing

Old Reader's Digest Complete Guide

Patterns from Finished Clothes

I really like this book for doing just that.

[This book] (https://www.amazon.com/Knitting-Without-Tears-Easy-Follow/dp/0684135051) helped me a lot. Also it helps to have a person teach you one on one if you can find someone to show you.

My brain just about exploded when, in reading Knitting Without Tears, EZ suggested not wrapping yarns in Fair Isle/Intarsia.

Buy this book. I found it indispensable. Trousers/pants are hard, don't be fooled.

Making Trousers by David Page Coffin
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/1589234499/ref=mp_s_a_1?qid=1343243559&sr=8-1

$13.42 is as close as I've got.

The pattern is from this book it was the shirt dress, I just added longer sleeves and stiffer interfacing.

It's this one: https://www.amazon.com/Couture-Sewing-Techniques-Revised-Updated/dp/1600853358

Here is the desktop version of your link

I have this book: http://www.amazon.com/One-Yard-Wonders-Sewing-Fabric-Projects/dp/1603424490/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1344757073&sr=8-1&keywords=one+yard+fabric+projects because I have a problem with buying single yards..I haven't made anything out of it but I have plans to!

Yikes, I just went to try this and all the dresses available on amazon.ca are the fast fashion/low quality type that I just can't dig :\ I don't wear jeans/trousers/slacks/shorts because I find them uncomfortable, so I need me some robes! I'm gonna make my own dress robes.

Unfortunately there isn't any sort of industry standard - every designer or manufacturer is going to have their own set of measurements they call standard. I have this book and I use it to check their suggested measurements on gloves, hats and socks all the time. For sweaters I am rather fond of patterns that size everything according to finished bust measurement and give finished waist and hip measurements - generally the various sizes are given in increments of 2" (ex. 36", 38", 40", etc.). No need to worry about which one is a size 8 or medium or whatever, just measure!

• Knit to Flatter by Amy Herzog
  
  
  
  
• Knits to Fit and Flatter by Jane Ellison (I meant to buy Knit to Flatter, but realized my mistake after I already ordered it -__-
  
  
• Knitting Without Tears by Elizabeth Zimmermann
  
  
• Stitch 'n Bitch: The Knitter's Handbook by Debbie Stoller
  
  I paid ~$40 for all between eBay and Amazon. The only book I bought new was Amy Herzog's book for ~$20.