Reddit mentions: The best hole punches

I just posted another comment so you'd see a notification.


Here's the list! Hope it's not too long. All the tools listed are the ones I bought. If I have other suggestions, I've listed them as well. I've also listed details on the functions of the tools, and why they're superior to some other alternatives. If you look for the same amount of tools in one of those "kits," they would set you back roughly 200-400, depending on where you bought it from. The tools in these kits are usually quite inferiorly made as well. This list is a result of about a week long search and perusal. Tandy is a well known and easily accessible aggregation of tools, but they're overpriced for what they do and their quality is mediocre at best.

• Stitching Chisel Set Amazon - $19 - Used for even stitching holes. An alternative to this tool would be something called an overstitch wheel, but from what I've read, the consensus seems to be that pricking irons are better and more reliable for straight lines. Also, overstitch wheels don't pierce the leather all the way, and only mark the holes, meaning that you have to pierce each hole individually with an awl after you're done. Double the work.
  
  
• Stitching Groover & Edge Trimmer Amazon - $22 - This tool combines three tools into one. The edge groover, edge trimmer, and fold liner. It's not amazing quality admittedly, but it gets the job done well, and for the price I really can't complain. The edge groover cuts out a thin channel which sets the thread in deeper in the leather. Edge trimmer smooths the sharp corners, and the fold liner makes a line if you want to fold the leather somewhere.
  
  
• Cutting Mat Amazon - $10 - I'd say absolutely necessary for anything leather related. This one is really cheap, works great. I have the 18x12 inch model, and the price is for that one as well.
  
  
• Hole Punch Set Amazon - $9 - I'd say this one is more on the optional side. Mostly needed if you're interested in putting in hardware like rivets or snaps. Also good however for oblong rounded holes, like I showed in my project.
  
  
• Mallet Amazon - $8 - Needed for all sorts of things. A normal metal hammer won't work because it won't absorb any force at all and all energy will be transferred to the leather, potentially damaging it. A rubber mallet allows for a softer hit.
  
  
  
• Diamond Stitching Awl Ebay - $9 - While technically not necessary if you're using a stitching chisel, if the leather you're working with is extremely thick, it might help to have it. You should get one anyway though. You'll inevitable end up using it. Also, make sure to get a "Diamond" pointed one. Normal awls with round points just poke a hole in that doesn't close back up. Diamond points are wide and thin, and this allows the leather to close back up on the thread after it has been sewed up. C.S. Osborne is also American made.
  
  
• Skiving Knife Ebay - $9 - Needed for thinning leather when folding, or simply trimming thick leather. There are several different styles, and they all definitely require a bit of finesse to be used properly, but are immensely rewarding once learned. Also a C.S. Osborne.
  
  
• Bone Folder Ebay - $7 - One of the tools you can improvise for. It's needed to crease corners when folding to flatten them out. Also can be used to burnish. The cocobolo burnisher that I made ended up working just as well as this for folding as well. Any smooth, rounded/flat long object will work well for this. This one is also a C.S. Osborne.
  
  
• Harness Needles Ebay - $7 - Size 2 is what I got, and it fits with 0.8 thread, also what I used. These needles are handy because the tips are somewhat rounded, which means no pricked fingers. Comes in a pack of 25, and the first two that I pulled out are still going strong, so they're quite sturdy.
  
  
• Ritza "Tiger" Thread Ebay - $7 for 25m - Obviously endless varietes of alternatives here. However, in my research it seemed to be the consensus that this was the superior thread. It comes already waxed, and it's extremely durable. The 0.8mm size fits the size 2 needle, and both are great for small projects.
  
  
• Barge Cement Ebay - $4 or $23 - Barge cement is a well known glue for leatherworkers, and works well. It's used to hold edges together to make sewing easier, as well as holding folds down. The thing is, they released a new formula, (the $4 one) that is "eco-friendly" and is missing some key chemicals. This is the one I got. It also kinda sucks at holding leather together. The original formula, (the $23 one), comes in a quart size at the smallest, but from what I heard this one is rock solid and the origin of their reputation. If you're planning on doing many projects I'd just say to invest in the quart.
  
  
• Stitching Pony This is what it looks like - I didn't put a link to a product for this one because all the ones I have seen are ridiculously overpriced. I made my own out of some more scrap hardwood I had laying around, (you can barely see the tip of it in the sewing picture here and it works flawlessly. It's used to hold the leather together so you can saddle stitch it, which requires both hands. Besides the wood, it cost me about $3 in hardware to make my own. You can easily whip one up with some 2x4s and a long bolt, knob, and some screws, for a grand total of probably $5 from home depot. You may need a table or miter saw, or equivalent.
  
  *Some of the eBay listings might have ended, but I'm sure you'll be able to find identical tools for the equivalent price or even cheaper.
  
  For me the tools came out to a grand total of roughly $115. You can give or take $20 if you want to improvise your own tools, or switch them out. I'd say this setup works just fine for mid to smaller projects like what I made, or wallets, etc.
  
  As for the leather, Springfield Leather sells some quality leather by the square foot, which is nice for first timers, as most tanneries only sell by the side, like what I had, which usually average around 21-28 square feet. Pretty big investment. Maverick Leather Company sells quality leathers as well as Horween "Seconds", like what I got for a very nice discount. These seconds are full sides with minor defects in the leather, but unless you're making huge bags it's easy to cut around the brand marks/scars etc, and your leather will look spotless. I got a full side of Horween Essex for roughly $130, and I'm guessing if I bought the same straight for Horween it would have run me in the ballpark of $300 or so. Since my laptop case only used about 7-8% of my leather, I used about $10 worth of leather. Quite a bargain if you ask me. If you're looking to do many projects like I am, I'd advise you to invest in a nice Horween side. Can't beat it for value and price.
  
  All told, the laptop case itself cost about $11-12 worth of materials** (leather, fabric, thread, glue) and took the better part of 2 days to complete. Granted, much of that time was spent just sitting and thinking as most of it was improvisation, as you can see by my horrible sketch.
  
  As far as my "learning" went, it was literally just Google. Some youtube videos help, and I glanced through some forums, but overall, as I've often found in woodworking too, nothing beats hand-on experience.
  
  Well, hope this helped you guys out and answered some questions. I know I definitely would have appreciated a specialized list like this when I was starting out.
  

you want something like this

http://www.amazon.com/Vktech-Stainless-Steel-Chisel-Leather/dp/B00CBRMRNI/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1451984817&sr=1-3&keywords=leather+tools

I just found a random one on amazon. You can get them from china for cheaper but will have to wait quite a while for delivery. That will punch the holes very nicely and the needle should go though without too much effort. It's best to have one with 2 prongs as well to go around corners. Tools are expensive but it really shows in the project. Take your time with the stitching. It's the greatest single way to improve the finished project for people getting into leather work IMO. In my experience there isn't a great way to finish the inside of leather. Most people use pigskin as a liner as far as I know. It is very thin. Either that or design the piece so that no part of the inside is visible. If you haven't checked out this guys youtube demos do it NOW. They are amazing and I use them all the time. Really nice work and great quality of videos too.
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCLkCG-505-1t0rYlgBTSnpQ

Anyone ever DIY a rep?

It's not a bag, but I did DIY an LV jacket that I saw on Alicia Vikander and became obsessed with. I wasn't about to fly to Hong Kong and drop $9k+ on the Auth, but being a bit crafty myself I thought I could DIY it easy enough.

I bought this suede blazer on Poshmark for ~$30. Then I bought the screw-on silver dome rivets on eBay in the 11.5mm and 19.5mm sizes ($28) and some silver chains on AE in 7.5cm and 10cm lengths (~$8).

I made a hole in the lining of the sleeve and using a leather hole punch I affixed the domes and hooked the chains between them.

Here is the final product! The weather is finally cooling down in NYC where I can wear it soon! You can still see where the original sleeve buttons were but I know that will rub out soon. It's not exactly like the Auth since I worked with the details of the blazer I had, but I feel like it still has the same feel. Not bad for ~$60!

Let me know what you think! It was a really fun project, very soothing, especially with the Great British Baking Show playing in the background.

I'm not that sure where to find guides. There are a lot of premade kits available, check amazon or home depot or similar stores. You can purchase the individual parts or just purchase a kit.

Here is a typical water pump, this one is the smallest and cheapest I can find on Amazon, or close to, as it takes very little flow to supply the drippers. Don't let them run dry though, reservoir should always have water in it.

I currently use this bad boy to split from 1/2 inch hose from a water pump to the thinner spaghetti hose, I think it's 1/4 inch, that leads to the drippers. The trick to using this manifold is finding a fitting to go from 1/2 inch hose from the pump to the required thread for the manifold, which is garden hose size. I use a totally standard 1/2 inch threaded fitting that is stocked at all my local hardware stores. You can adjust flow on the manifold but I prefer not to, just leave it and let the drippers modulate flow.

Instead of a manifold, you could also find some way to go right to spaghetti tubing from the pump, and just run one master line to all the plants, and use a tee for each dripper.

You could also run the 1/2 inch supply line as your master line and puncture a hole in it with this or this and just use a little fitting like this to run the spaghetti hose to each dripper/plant, but I feel like these connections are prone to leaking. It is a very popular way of setting up drip systems though. With less than very many plants I would go with a manifold or spaghetti hose with tees.

I like this style of dripper because it sends a consistent amount of water to the plants and I adjust volume by setting an electronic timer (24 hr/7 day timer) to run the right amount of minutes per day, the amount of times I want. Math is nice.


So basically parts list can fluctuate pretty heavily depending on how you want to do it.

I had a hot minute last year where I thought I'd get into leather working and bought a bunch of tools. That only lasted about a month but the leather hole punch (like this) is getting plenty of action these days. Had to add a new hole myself the other day, that's the third added in that belt too.
It IS a pretty awesome feeling.
Congrats!

Thanks a lot! That's great news for you as well!

I have the luxury of a hole punch kit, which let's me just plop a hole into any fabric or material I want. However, a screw driver can work too, or better yet, if you have access to it, a drill and an appropriately sized drill bit. Just put the belt over a piece of scrap wood, figure out where you want the holes, and drill away. You may want to clamp it or otherwise secure the belt though, lest it take off on you. You can also use an awl, if you have one or know someone who does.

Edit: Regardless of what method you use, put the belt over a piece of scrap wood, or something you don't mind damaging. Also, use the appropriate PPE.

Life Pro Tip Addendum: For having Such a cool measuring belt to show off to your friends but using a sharp object and accidently cutting your wrist. Buy a Leather Punch.

Edit- Not being an ass I swear I have a belt I have done the same to. Also awesome progress!!

/u/streakybacon linked spiceBar's landing pad guide. Here's another post with sound clips demonstrating the difference the mod makes. He uses a clothes iron to flatten the landing pads to mitigate the travel reduction that the landing pads induce.

My hole-punched silicone mod takes more supplies and effort to do. I attempted this mod so as to avoid the travel reduction of the landing pads. I used a .010" silicone sheet but I think it's a little too thin to be very effective. I would recommend trying .015" or .020" if you want to attempt this mod. I first cut out 10mm x 10mm squares, then used this hole punch set (I used the 1/4" punch) to make holes on each square using a rubber mallet and a soft wood block underneath. This is very time consuming and costs more than the landing pad mod, but it makes sure all the keys are even with a minimal reduction in travel. It's worth it if you have multiple Topre keyboards you want to silence.

Another thing to note: Nearly all modification guides leave out how to open the Topre keyboard cases. Realforces are easy to open - you just need to unclip 4 tabs on the bottom front of the keyboard and the two halves open up. The FC660C requires removing one screw underneath the QC sticker, and then using a thin screwdriver or credit card to unclip the tabs in the seam between the two halves of the case (difficult to do). The CM Novatouch is built even more tightly and is the hardest to open. Same method as with the FC660C but you need to remove 4 screws on the bottom, and have to unclip even more tabs to open it up. The plastic will bend and you'll probably think you'll break the case but it should be okay if you don't pry the cases outwards too much. To separate the plastic plunger section from the PCB, you'll have to remove a bajillion screws from the PCB. Then, to remove the plungers from their housings you can pop them out with your thumb but it tends to break the tiny plastic tabs keeping the plungers in their housing - this doesn't affect the keyboard's function in any way but it's worth noting that you'll be doing a bit of damage. You can also try to carefully remove the plungers without breaking the tabs using a screwdriver.

Very nice quiver and thanks for my next project. I really love working with leather.
For those who want to get started it's not that expensive of a hobby. As for leather it's actually fairly cheap and most projects don't go over $25 in supplies. It's about $100 to get the tools you'll need and although their not top of the line they will last quite a while.

Tool 1 |
Tool 2 |
Tool 3
Tool 4 |
Tool 5 |
Tool 6 |
Tool 7 |
Tool 8 |
Tool 9 |
Tool 10

Having recently gone through AVET and experimenting with various window breaking methods, I can tell you that the dedicated window breakers such as this or window punches work much much better than a striking tip on any multitool. The striking tips tend to cause over penetration (tool going into passenger compartment) as they require more force to do the same thing. Buy a good knife and a good punch and you can punch the window then cut the seat belt with the knife.

That's my two cents.

Thanks for the interest. I used 2-3oz economy leather from Tandy Leather. Here's the list of tools I used:

• Swivel Knife
  
• Nylon Mallet - I have the Al Strohman version, got on sale.
  
• Beveler Stamp - Perimeter edge
  
• Background Stamp
  
• Wing Divider - to mark stitching line
  
• Hole Punch
  
  Finished with:
  
• Saddle Tan Antique Gel
  
• Neatsfoot oil to soften
  
• Tan-Kote to seal/protect the leather
  
  Hope this helps

I think it's smaller (5mm or 3/16in maybe?), but any craft store will have punches in a variety of sizes. You can also get adjustable punches that allow you to select the size by turning a wheel, like this leather punch. Useful to have around for DIY projects other than watch stickers, too!

Great! By the way, one of these may help with your strap. Just use a small enough punch that it doesn't rip into the next hole.

This was one of the best purchases I've made in the last year due to all of my weight loss as well

https://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-72-Leather-Punch/dp/B00004T7WS

Couldn't recommend it more. So easy to punch a hole and go.

never thought about the 14mm hole punch/large screen - great idea!

Kinda like this?

​

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Leather-Gasket-Strap-Hollow/dp/B01N11ELAL

I used a 50 duro sheet with adhesive on it from amazon (currently out of stock, but this is what i've used on all of my boards).

I cut it roughly to size for the bottom of the case and then use these punches to cut out holes for the screw standoffs, the jumper panel and the USB connector (hint: if you lay it in the bottom of the case with the adhesive side still covered and push down, you will end up with little holes punched in the covering to the adhesive that you can use as a guide for the punches).

Once it's cut properly, you take off the backing for the adhesive and carefully place it in the case. It's a delicate operation because the adhesive is pretty tough and you really don't get a second chance (using the screw standoffs as a guide is really the best way to do it).

I've done this in about 6 boards now and it's always worked out really well.

Thanks for responding!

I can post pictures when I am home, but basically they kinda overlap and sometimes they go up, sometimes down, it's not neat. The front looks uniform though.

I am using flat chisel hole punches, which I am sure amounts to heresy. These guys: http://amzn.com/B00CBRMRNI

I used a stitching awl on a trial piece which was even worse. But until I can tweak my budget to work in diamond punches or better awls, those are all I have to work with. So it is quite possible that it's just an artifact of the tools I'm using and not my technique (for instance in cross stitching, how they say the crosses should all be in the same direction, otherwise the piece will look unfinished).

thanks, my own searching turned up this:

http://www.amazon.com/Anytime-Tools-HOLLOW-LEATHER-GASKET/dp/B000Q7AVL0/ref=pd_sim_sbs_indust_1

which i think would really help

Personally i would have punched the holes with something like these. I bought these to do my stitching and they work wonderfully. I then would just miss the second layer with 1 or 2 stiches and continue past the corner and start into it again.

Here is a quick bracelet i did with them
That was my first time stitching ever.

boop

And yeah they don't need to be super expensive ones. You may need to sharpen the cutting bits eventually.

iMac first came out in 1998, and a lot of oddball products came out soon after with translucent colored plastic to grab some sales off the iMac's design and popularity. (Even today you can still find 'fashionable' hole punches using original iMac colors.) When was this TV made?

Anyone have a hole punch recommendation?

I started with a rotary punch that I bought when I made my wife a belt from a belt blank.

I recently bought a double shoulder on 8 oz veg tan for making more belts. I bought this kit for the holes:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000KE17JO/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These things are awful. I'm pounding the shit out of them and taking forever to punch each hole. Looking for recommendations for a kit that will work better.

Try going to a Tandy Leather store, or a store that caters to bikers (motorcyclists) and ask for scrap leather. I bought a shopping bag of black and burgundy scraps for $10.

Get a hole puncher like this one on Amazon for $6.88

Next, get some waxed, thin shoelaces for mens' dress shoes, like these for $6.99.

Then, make as many custom wraps as you want. Lacing your wraps will enable you to make custom-fit pieces that can go around and/or cover the unique contours of your horn.

I have one of these: http://www.amazon.com/C-S-Osborne-223-Revolving-Multi-sized/dp/B00004YZQC/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1380696839&sr=8-5&keywords=leather+hole+punch

There's absolutely nothing to it. Just find the right sized punch, place a scrap piece of denim on the anvil side (prevents the punch from going dull), find your spot and punch through. You won't ruin your belt, how do you think the manufacturer got those holes there in the first place? Same way.

Or, like /u/automaticfantastic says, if the buckle is detachable, you can just simply shorten the belt with a utility knife and reattach the buckle.

Pretty much any punch should work. If you have a leather punch then go with that.

Otherwise you can find some cheap hollow punches on amazon.

I'd recommend an $8 Amazon purchase.

http://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-72-Leather-Punch/dp/B00004T7WS?ie=UTF8&keywords=belt%20holes%20puncher&qid=1465422789&ref_=sr_1_2&sr=8-2

Everyone should carry a window puncher for your car and keep it handy (ie NOT in the glovebox).

I don't think folks realize how a $5 tool can save your life.

I use a set like this: http://www.micromark.com/pin-vise-and-drill-bit-set,7804.html



There is a less expensive set that is similar on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Commando-Precision-Anodized-Series-Handle/dp/B0002BW6CW

Fair enough, I didn't look at the Female one, I figured they were the same size. Arguably the male connector is more important since it's on every piece of equipment and not all of them have pass-throughs.

Even so, if you're making custom panels it's not terribly all that difficult to get a slightly larger punch. Yeah it's tedious but not impossible. $20 off amazon and ebay.

https://www.amazon.com/Q-Max-Sheet-Metal-Punch-29mm/dp/B005LV1JEE/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1494734383&sr=1-1&keywords=29mm+sheet+hole+punch

https://www.ebay.com/p/?iid=162015301731&lpid=82&&&ul_noapp=true&chn=ps

Oh sweet. That's a tool I'd not heard of in that way (I thought of a different kind of chisel). Are these the ones?

I got myself one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/C-S-Osborne-223-Revolving-Multi-sized/dp/B00004YZQC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1332355339&sr=8-4

I have now made 2 new holes in my belt. Feels prety good.

You're going to want to use something like this. http://www.amazon.com/SE-7909LP-9-Piece-Hollow-Leather/dp/B0002964CC

get yourself a leather punch. it'll make your life much easier.

Those are the jars you want. I would recommend getting a punch to make the injection holes in the lids https://www.amazon.com/ABN-Power-Punch-Heavy-Duty/dp/B07D7HJQ5Z/

For what it's worth, you can buy a belt hole puncher for less than $7 on amazon.

Get something like this

What about something like this?

A Leather Hole Punch, something like the one linked (but not that exact one).

Imo, I would wait until i can get the right tool. Some kind of leather puncher like the following:

https://www.amazon.com/Revolving-including-Screwdriver-Grinding-Saddle/dp/B06XRDBGY6/

Look for something like this:

Revolving leather hole punch

Or you could just get one of these They will out last you I promise.

a leather hole puncher will make any belt fit. this blogger is a fan.

still, i second kale_no's advice. excess fabric won't drape well around the waist, even with a belt.

I got one of these. Totally worth it.

https://smile.amazon.com/Revolving-including-Screwdriver-Grinding-Saddle/dp/B06XRDBGY6/ref=sr_1_5?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1524490737&sr=1-5&keywords=leather+punch

Well looks identical to a leather punch. So I’d say it’s a leather punch. Not a medical tool.

https://www.amazon.com/Tandy-Leather-Sewing-Punch-3229-00/dp/B0036MNY7K

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XRDBGY6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I got it because I figure it can be used in the future for craft projects and such as well.

You can solve this problem forever by getting a hole puncher. Shouldn't be much more than $10 at your local crafts store.

$12 on Amazon, decent reviews: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XRDBGY6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cGCBDbS9GWZJE

Do you mean 24"? 14" is a biggish-sized bicep...gun belts go on your body, not your arm. You can always get a bigger belt and punch more holes in it. Use a drill or a hollow punch set and make it whatever size you want.

I have one of these, it looks a lot like this with a handle and a punch plate. (I think this one is missing some punches.) Here's mine: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004T7WS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_msGZAbDJPMC2K

https://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-72-Leather-Punch/dp/B00004T7WS/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1494270825&sr=8-4&keywords=hole+punch+tool

https://www.amazon.com/Sized-Heavy-Leather-Pliers-Punches/dp/B07D28DBC6

leather punch. makes holes in ears

I cant imagine making.a large hole in the middle of someone's carpet. I'd terminate my own ends. But you can try this:SE 791LP Heavy-Duty 12-Piece Hollow Punch Set with Zipper Pouch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KE17JO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_PIL6xbS7ZK0DP

It's called a hand sewing punch

eyyyyyy

Hollow punches

https://www.amazon.com/SE-791LP-Heavy-Duty-12-Piece-Hollow/dp/B000KE17JO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1518233355&sr=8-3&keywords=hollow+punch+set

http://www.amazon.com/Generic-Leather-Hole-Punch-Tool/dp/B0002T87FE

I got one of these. You can pick the size of your hole.

I see in now, it is probably a window punch

I know what you're picturing but the wheel on that tool is vertical and has round tube punches on it.
Edit: here you go:https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-02520A-Leather-Heavy-Gauge-Handle/dp/B0002T87FE

As a leatherworker your tools just some times wear out

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002964CC/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=YO644O1X57X3&coliid=I2N7S5KNGPJB62

or

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OINBRM0/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=YO644O1X57X3&coliid=I2E1867ME6DVUH

You can also do it yourself.

Punches for making holes in leather

Or get yourself one of those belt hole punchers

I use this.

You need this...

https://www.amazon.com/Revolving-including-Screwdriver-Grinding-Saddle/dp/B06XRDBGY6/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=make+holes+in+belt&qid=1571149201&sr=8-3

help

Try buying a leather punch. Really cheap and will solve your problem.

When I was an EMT we used these spring-loaded window punches: https://www.amazon.com/Police-EMS-Emergency-Window-Punch/dp/B001W8A1HQ . They're not great, though -- I prefer those pointy hammer-like things meant for breaking windows.

That sounds like a bad idea.

https://www.amazon.com/Sized-Heavy-Leather-Pliers-Punches/dp/B07D28DBC6/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3EPUXKF6STCFQ&keywords=leather+hole+punch&qid=1556136207&s=gateway&sprefix=Leather+hole%2Caps%2C226&sr=8-3

No problem, here is the link to the exact ones we use on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CBRMRNI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 - they are cheap too.

As someone with training in breaking car windows (firefighter) I can tell you there are ways to do it that will only cost some one a window and mild clean up.

If you are just going to hurl a rock through the window, I think you should be held liable because this is extremely unsafe and causes way more damage then is necessary. I've been to scenes were idiots have sprayed glass all over victims. I've broken hundreds of car windows and there's no need to fill someone's car with shards.

Carry a window punch if you want to be a potential pet rescuer. https://www.amazon.com/Police-EMS-Emergency-Window-Punch/dp/B001W8A1HQ