Reddit mentions: The best horse stable supplies

Sturdy step stool ($40) - not the rickety tubular kitchen chair ones, I mean one where you can stand on the top. a Buy it for Life item, not inexpensive, but safe. https://www.amazon.com/Louisville-Ladder-AS3002-6966014-2-Foot/dp/B00182TWL2

Leatherman multi tool (around $50), which i keep in the junk bowl because I can never find a screwdriver fast enough. Pricey new, less expensive when you buy it second hand or in a pawn shop. they don't really break, but you do have to clean and oil them once a year. https://www.amazon.com/LEATHERMAN-Wingman-Multitool-Stainless-Steel/dp/B005DI0XM4/

Cordless drill (under $50), mine basically has the screw driver bit in it 90% of the time. the rest of the time I drill lots of pilot holes. pay attention to the battery... if you can get one with a battery that is shared by other tools in the line, then it is easily replaceable and if you buy another tool in that line you can swap batteries. I like to have 1 battery in the charger and one in the device. https://www.amazon.com/BLACK-DECKER-Cordless-Driver-BDCDD12C/dp/B0111N8L7I/

Spirit, bubble or torpedo level. (under $10) the Hanging kit usually contains just the wires and hooks, but you need a small spirit level for hanging pictures and shelves evenly. doesn't matter the brand they all work the same https://www.amazon.com/WilFiks-Leveling-Resistant-Different-Visibility/dp/B07M62GJYP/

Small tool boxes vary in quality. I don't know if this is for you or someone else. But don't buy anything unless it's a NAME BRAND, cheap metal tools bend and can break with too much torque. Even the Stanley line that Walmart sells isn't fabulous, but it's better than a nameless brand. I don't like SETS of tools, but you need to start someplace, buy GOOD tools one at a time, I love finding $$$ tools at thrift stores. https://www.amazon.com/STANLEY-94-248-Piece-Homeowners-Tool/dp/B000UHMITE/(i bought a cheap socket set 4 years ago to replace my stolen ones and they already have rust)

Bucket organizer. (around $15) If you buy a SET of tools, take the plastic blow molded container and put it in the recycling. You will never bother putting the tools back in and when you get more tools they won't fit. Bucket Organizers are pockets that fit around a 5 gallon bucket. You shove your tools into the pockets and everything else in the middle. And keep it in the bottom of your closet and carry it to where you need the tools. https://www.amazon.com/Bucket-Boss-10030-Bucketeer-BTO/dp/B00GK4TOWK

Tack Hammer. (under $15) You won't need a big 22 oz hammer, but a smaller 16 oz one with a normal handled and then a Tack hammer, these have a narrow head and sometimes are magnetic and hold the nail in place. Tack hammers are easier to use for hanging things exactly where you want them. https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-54-304-5-Ounce-Magnetic-Hammer/dp/B00002X1XD

Stud finder.(under $20) uses a battery, and lets you know where the studs are behind drywall. BEST PURCHASE EVER. https://www.amazon.com/Upgraded-Stud-Finder-Wall-Detector/dp/B07VLDTVFQ/ any brand will work fine.

Digital Infared Thermometer (under $20) Non-contact Digital Laser Infrared Thermometer Temperature Gun - ALSO BEST PURCHASE EVER... works in the kitchen for food and oven temp, fridge temp, and for locating drafts and cold spots around doors and windows. https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lasergrip-1080-Non-Contact-Thermometer/dp/B00DMI632G

Toilet Plunger - the sort with the extra bit on the end. https://www.amazon.com/Get-Bats-Out-Plunger-Bathroom/dp/B00ODD5MD0 you do NOT want to be waiting around for someone to unblock your toilet. It may be disgusting but scoop out some of what's in the toilet before you start plunging, it's less disgusting than having to mop it off the floor. You want the plunger that makes a seal around the bottom.

BUCKET. (under $10) mine is constantly in use, i keep it in the tub and toss wet things into it. I have gone through EVERY TYPE on offer...I was so sick of plastic buckets, that warped and stained, where the handles ripped out. But the BEST and cheapest one I have ever found is a flat back duraflex bucket for watering horses. Not kidding. Made of a hard polyethylene these things are designed to be flung around and stepped on by 2000 lb animals. https://www.amazon.com/LITTLE-GIANT-Flat-Back-Dura-Flex-Plastic/dp/B000HHLHPS/ these are cheap if you buy them in a feed store, but even with the shipping on Amazon it is WELL WORTH the money. You will need a bucket when you empty the back of the toilet tank to change the flushing flapper or gasket, and you will need it when you empty the commode itself, if you have to change out the wax seal underneath.

Blanket hangers. (6 for $27) yeah this is obscure, but when I moved I lost a LOT of storage space. These saved my sanity. I use them to hang up quilts and sleeping bags in the back of the closet OFF SEASON. I also use them to hang blankets, sheets curtains and stuff once they come out of the laundry aren't quite dry. I didn't even know there was such a thing before now I wouldn't give them up. https://www.amazon.com/Stock-Your-Home-Comforter-Organization/dp/B00EUG51JU

Flashlight. ($30-50) I've written about these before. Until I bought a GOOD one, I had no idea how bad the others were. Cheap flashlights are great to have scattered about in the cellar, or in the junk drawer. but if you really want TO SEE, get a great flashlight. I gifted myself one for christmas one year and I love it. It hangs by the door and if I am going to be out very late or the weather is bad, I shove it in my bag. It will also illuminate Well past the end of the porch and into the yard if I hear a noise. https://www.amazon.com/Pelican-Carded-SabreLite-Flashlight-Yellow/dp/B01CKAIYV4 any very good brand will do, but I found Maglites to be dangerously useless.

I am really excited that you found this subreddit, over the last 3-4 months it has nearly doubled in size and content. We have some great moderators that care and put time into making this reddit interesting and active. We treat everyone very nice, and give one another constructive criticism to improve the life our pets. We are very active in making sure all member have their set ups correct for their 8 legged furry friends. This brings me to my point, one the Team_Coco_13 has already pointed out. We need to talk about your tank set up.

The type of substrate you are using needs to be replaced. There are a few different types you can use. For most of mine I use this in all but 3 or 4 of my terrariums. There are a couple reason for using this. It is soft for falls which is important for large tarantulas like G. rosea. Tarantulas, especially large ones like G. rosea can really hurt themselves by falling from the top of the enclosure. A lot of the bark pieces are very sharp and could easily puncture a large T's abdomen, almost definitely causing death.

You also need waaaay more substrate in the tank. It should have not more then 2.5 the DLS (diagonal leg span) of the the spider tall. With a spider that big, I am guessing the substrate should be about 6 inches from the top of the enclosure. This is also to prevent damage from a fall which is the primary concern with large terrestrial tarantulas.

Welcome to this subreddit, we grow daily in our knowledge and numbers and are welcoming to all. Thanks for sharing your pictures and I hope to see the new and improved terrarium ASAP. Good luck with your little buddy. If you have any more, post pics of them so we can get all your terrariums in tip top shape!

Amanda! Your bags look beautiful!!!!

I never worry about flaws as most reps actually mimic the same flaws as their authentic counterparts...and to be honest...the only 1:1 is the authentic, which I just do not think is worth the asking price. At $145 the flaws are so insignificant as not to matter and most can be fixed with a bottle of shiny (dull canvas) or a trip to the cobbler (cinch tab thingy) or a marker (red glue) and a little darkening boost (patina). To be quite frank, I love reps because they present a challenge and I am thoroughly enjoying finding solutions to these minor dilemmas...and employing them (and for research purposes of course). To me it's fun...go figure.

I so want a DA just to see and I think I may take the plunge, though I'll stick to the beige interior.

I am so tickled to hear someone say that they think their reps are "fantastic" and are not agonizing over every single detail. I am certain that you will enjoy your lovelies, and because you will, I doubt if anyone will ever guess they're reps. Love, love, love your review and your attitude, thank you so much for sharing love!

Sounds like you're well along the path to becoming a crazy chicken lady--welcome aboard :)

Honestly, you don't need most of the stuff on your list. Chickens need an off-the-ground roost in a predator-proof space to sleep, access to water and food, a safe place to lay eggs, and that's about it. Feel free to go crazy with extra perches in the run, toys, mirrors, swings, etc. but don't feel like they are necessary. My chickens have far more fun digging through a big leaf pile than any other amusement I've devised.

Your chickens may have issues learning to use the treadle feeder. Mine have yet to manage it, so I changed to using a hanging feeder for the rodent resistance.

Sand as litter is controversial, with some bloggers claiming it's the best and easiest and others claiming it's unhealthful. You probably want to switch to what's sold in the USA as "builder's sand" rather than "play sand". It's coarser and much cheaper, and less likely to cause respiratory distress.

On constructing a dust bath: I'd only recommend this if they don't have access to dirt in their run. I meticulously created a beautiful dust bath in a sawed-off wine barrel, with the so-called perfect mix of sand and dirt, but my hens literally never used it. They preferred to dig their own dust baths in their run's litter or in my yard.

One optional addition is Storey's Guide to Raising Chickens; I'm not sure how much overlap there is with the book you already have, but Storey's is excellent.

I'd also consider buying nest pads, though you can just use wood shavings.

I personally find sweet PDZ to be helpful, and if you're using sand as litter (I use deep litter) you'll probably find it even more so. It absorbs ammonia, odors, and moisture.

I don't have experience with building or buying cabinet to hide litter box, though you may do some googling around with diy searches for your specific box.

I do have experience with two other options of concealing litter boxes which I thought I would share based on past experience with old apartment, and recent experience with new apartment. They may be helpful if you don't mind switching.

Top entry box hidden in a hallway closet: https://www.overstock.com/Pet-Supplies/Clevercat-Innovations-Top-Entry-Litter-Box/6423254/product.html?

This one minimized litter being kicked out. This option was great solution in old apartment which I had extra space to keep the box in a spare hallway closet. It can also be kept in a utility closet with a door cracked open as it takes up minimal space. I threw in motion sense lights in the closet so my cat could see to more easily navigate getting around.

The option I use now in my living room is a covered litter box which looks like a plant: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000MPR2GI/ and I bought a tub to go inside of it so I could easily dispose of used litter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BD5DRQ/

I didn't want a cabinet because to make it look acceptable in the room, it'd need to be a side table and honestly I didn't want to smell cat s*** while sitting on the couch. This plant litter box is nice looking and it's easy enough to spray paint it another color. So far, so far with it. My cat hasn't even knocked off the fake plant on top.

It does an ok job of containing the smell. A good litter will help and so will cleaning daily. It does even look good in my living room and you wouldn't pick out that it's a cat litter box. I face the opening towards the wall so you "litter"ally cannot see the litter or entry opening.

Good luck with whatever you choose to do. It's no fun having an exposed kitty box out in the human living space so I hope you figure something out!

Hah, I should have paid attention to your username then I might have guessed you were in Wales.

Looking at the new photos you posted, if I were you I would not bother sending the razors to anyone to be professionally restored (but you will need to send them to someone to be professionally honed, i.e. sharpened). The blades look quite clean except for one bad spot of black corrosion on the back side of the tang (where you hold the razor) of the George Butler. Look in an automobile parts store, in the restoration/cleaning supplies aisle, and you should find a pack of steel wool in different grades (coarse, medium, fine). You can use it to try and clean off that corrosion but just be warned that it can put some scratches in the blade, nothing that will affect the performance but I don't like the look afterwards. The rest of the blade on both razors I would just clean with a rag and some metal polish (can get it when you get the steel wool) like Maas or Blue Magic. I don't like to clean my razors too much because I like the look of the patina (the greying) that builds up on vintage razors, shows character and age imo, plus I think it helps protect against rust.

I don't have anyone I know in the UK who hones straight razors. You can check the Ebay UK listings as I sometimes see people offering honing services there, usually around 15 pounds, but I cannot make any recommendations.

I would like to see more photos of the razor strop if you have it, of the handle in particular, so I can judge if it is genuine ivory. If so then I am very jealous, I can't remember seeing such a strop before. Personally I would keep the strop as-is to be a treasured heirloom. You can look for neatsfoot oil (made from cows) to treat the leather to try to preserve it, or you can use mineral oil or some other leather care product. If you would like to have the leather replaced on the strop then I would recommend Alastair with Westholme Strops as he is in the UK. His work is pricey but top-notch. This is the Westholme strop that I own.

Wow! Thank you so much for this guide! I will definitely keep referring back to it as I set them up.

I am not sure of their genders or reproductive status, so I will be asking the last owners. They literally just put the bunnies in this cage on their porch and said free rabbits to good home, so I have no idea. They definitely seem bonded.

I’m buying one of these for their hay, so they always have access to it. I’ll order some pellets while I’m at it.


Would one of these suffice for litter?

I’m so lucky to already have an exotic animal vet, one that does cater to rabbits, in my area. I’ve taken my snakes there before.

I just want to give these babies as good a home as I can, especially since I don’t think they were treated well at the last place. I gave them hay, fresh water, a small carrot, and some collard greens when I got home with them a couple of hours ago, and they have not stopped eating since. I’m not sure if this is just rabbit behavior or not. Either way, they’re much happier now!

The sponge in the nozzle is a good solution! You have to change it out every once in a while because it will get clogged up with stuff. When I had my betta in his Spec he would mostly lay by the intake slots that shredded his fins and I struggled to find a good solution to the flow problem too. I think as long as he has areas he can go where he doesn't have to fight to swim then he'll be fine. I decided to just get my guy a 10 gallon with a Aquaclear 20 so he would have more space and wouldn't shred his fins/fight the current. The ten gallon is as long as the Spec, just a bit deeper, so I had enough space on my counter to replace it.

You could get or make a feeding ring if he's having trouble chasing down his food. I haven't made one before but I bet any sort of plastic ring secured to the side with a binder clip or something would work!

I think it's awesome how much you're doing for your old guy. Is your spec the new one or the older version? The newer ones have a better light on them and can grow a wider variety of plants. If you're looking for easy plants though I think you got some good ones. Java ferns, Java moss and Anubias'. Did you bury the java fern in the substrate? Java ferns need to have their rhizome out of the water (same with Anubias') so I would suggest tying it to some other decoration or a rock with some sewing thread.

I've definitely posted this before, but I love the Car Day Martin Belvoir Leather Conditioner! It's beeswax and lanolin based, similar to Lederbalsam but personally I've had better results with the Car Day Martin product than the Effax Lederbalsm (haven't tested other brands). Since I foxhunt, my tack is unfortunately exposed to a lot of water/mud/moisture and this stuff really protects the leather. My one friend swears by Horseman's One Step but I think it smells godawful, plus I find the name annoyingly deceptive, proper tack care is always multiple steps grahhhhh!

Got you covered:

1. a) The widest part of your foot should correspond with the widest section of the boot. Most of the creasing should happen in between the laces/tongue and the cap. My Brannock is 8D, I wear an 8D in the Katahdin. b) The break in will NOT be fun, but two weeks tops; 'lean' forward when you lace them up, and lace all the way up (I skip the middle set of speedhooks and then double-back). c) The leather won't stretch very much: if it's snug during first wear, you're good to go; if it hurts in any way, size up or go wide; if there's heel slippage, size down.
   
   
2. NO WATERPROOFING. Well, you can. But Lexol or Bickmore care products (cleaner, conditioner, repellent) are plenty for your boots. Heavy duty waterproofing products will make your boots look ugly/blobby. The tongue is gusseted, helps to keep out water/dirt.
   
   
3. It'll happen on it's own.
   
   
4. Depends. I walk around a lot (concrete, asphalt, linoleum, etc.), I haven't had problems with the insole. Do you have issues with flat-footedness, high arches, etc.? Remember that an insert will require you to size up. The outsole/heel will wear down, especially if you pronate/supinate. It helps to have a second pair of footwear to rotate with (and let boots 'rest'), so consider a second footwear purchase in the coming year or so (I picked up a pair of AE's Higgins Mills about 10 months after I bought the Katahdin).
   
   
5. I use Woodlore Epics after every wear, brush only if I kicked a lot of things on a given day. A cloth rag is good for wiping away dirt (especially that rainwater + city dirt mix).
   
   The Katahdin leather has an interesting depth to it. Lemme know if you have more questions.
   
   Edit: more details/clarity.

Obenauf makes a leather oil that is better for treating/conditioning dry leather.

Saddle Soap is a great product to clean and maintain boots without drying them out.

Red Wing also makes Mink Oil and a number of other leather treatments to weatherproof boots.

You could get him 1 of each, and a cleaning brush and put it all in a wooden cigar box. ($1-5 at a tobacco store) and it would be a great gift.

Cupcake, you didn't "hit a nerve". You're hitting a buffet. People like you make me so happy about the choices I make and glad I'm not, literally, eating myself to death and value my health. You're enormous, huge, gigantic, disgusting. You're a cloven hooved, cow eyed, barnyard bovine. You should add "Livestock feedbag" to your Amazon "wish list". Lol I'll make it easy for you:

http://www.amazon.com/Outfitters-Supply-Classic-Leather-Feedbag/dp/B00M8F8ZTS/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1451160143&sr=8-9&keywords=feedbag

It's specially designed to allow you to breath while you're inhaling the enormous amounts of food you're ingesting. Lol

You can also add a Scootie to your "wish list":

http://www.amazon.com/Shoprider-Scootie-Wheel-Compact-Scooter/dp/B000O5G47O/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451160479&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=Scootie+puff+motorized+chair

Kaytee Rollin' the Hay Dispenser, Colors May Vary https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006G7TCU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_DvIKDb46Z38HA

I got my four pigs two of these and they love them. I don’t have mine on the stands, I let my pigs literally roll them around. In my mind it keeps them interested and foraging instead of just gulping down hay like it’s their last meal. They’re super inexpensive and to clean just soak in some mild soapy water and let dry. Been about a year and so far so good!

So, the problem with DHGate is that there are so many flops out there. Its a hard lesson to learn. I've done it, sometimes on purpose because I'm a glutton for punishment LOL. There are a couple good sellers. Fubar has average quality and OC does actually have a DHGate storefront as well. I feel like though, mostly as a rep noob, its best to steer clear of DHGate/Aliexpress because its very easy to overpay for something that is not that great.

Conversely with a trusted seller you'll get a good product, sure you might overpay, relatively speaking, because you didn't comparison shop enough, but it will less likely be a subpar rep.

I clicked on your DHGate link and while the neverfull is not the worst, I do feel like you overpaid. There was a review I commented on yesterday where she paid $80. I've paid $80-$90 for a 3A neverfull as well. I think the biggest thing that stood out to me was the interior color, its way purple.

Anyway - to speed up patina you can use neatsfoot oil (my preference) and the glazing can be fixed with rejuvenate wood furniture markers - mahogany or walnut color. For canvas sheen, I use nuvinyl

I love love love leather dye it really is so easy. I have dyed coats, purses, boots, and a pair of pants so far. I use Fiebings Leather Dye amazon link. There are lots of tutorials out there but I'll tell you what works for me. This is for boots because I wanted them to last, purses coats etc were a lot less steps but anyway!

0-I didn't do this step because the chemical is illegal to buy in California but if you have a coated leather piece, something that's really shiny is usually how you would tell I gather, you would use a leather stripper here. But again I never did this.


1-Wash with Fiebings Saddle Soap


2-After it dries paint on your leather dye. I always did two coats although a lot of times it didn't need it.


3-After that dries buff the item to remove excess dye. If you forget to do that (like I do sometimes) dye will rub off on stuff.


4-Coat the item with something to perseve leather. I use either Obenauf's LP Boot Preservative or Obenauf's Leather Oil


That's it! And I definitely find the item looks a lot better after dye. The Obenaufs makes leather look amazing. And it's not animal oil so I like it a lot more than mink oil say.

When you dye the leather you're always going to have some dye residue leftover. In my experience I've only had issues with the dye leeching out when I haven't made the effort to 'clean' the leather after dyeing. My process is:

1. Dye the leather and let the dye set for 12+ hrs if possible
   
2. Use Saddle Soap on a rag and really work it into the dyed leather
   
3. Apply a light coat of mink oil or olive oil
   
4. If desired, use a sealant/finisher. I use Tan Kote and it works great, with no scent after it has dried
   
5. Apply beeswax and polish
   
   I've also found that leather will take up oil regardless of having put a sealer/finish onto it. For example, I made a piece with a thick coating of Super Sheen on it and it still quickly absorbs mink oil when I want to condition it.
   
   By the way - if you're looking to 'go natural' and/or not have issues with the dye fading out then you need to try Vinegaroon. The stuff works like a charm. Only issue is that it can be tough to get the vinegar smell out.

I have an old HDR lesson saddle that was gifted to me when my trainer closed shop. I use Fiebengs Saddle soap on it once a week and it went from a squeaking nightmare to a soft, supple saddle in 2 treatments. I love this stuff. In the past I’ve used stübbon’s cleaner and polish for my saddles but it always left them gooey and sticky. This stiff rubs in well and looks great.

Fiebing's Yellow Saddle Soap, 12 Ounce - Cleans, Softens and Preserves Leather https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GRSVTK4?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Try a leather soap. I haven’t tried this one personally, I use Red Wing brand, but most soaps are pretty similar afaik. For it you get a damp warm wash cloth and just rub it on the soap then rub it on the shoe. Wipe off excess and then let it dry.

Conversely if money is tight, a warm damp wash cloth with a just a dab of liquid laundry detergent can work as well but I don’t know about that with snow/salt stains.

Truman was having a really hard time getting enough hay from the feeder the rescue recommended. We found this bag feeder on Amazon and it’s worked out really well! Truman happily munches away throughout the day and night.

Tough 1 Miniature Canvas Hay Pouch, Purple https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002HOI75M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_oK.JDb7GV8MX3

I've always used saddle soap for almost all my leather products, and have some quite old leather shoes & belts that still look great, thanks to it. I don't use it on my track leathers, but I have a RSD moto jacket that I've been using it on for the last 1.5 years and the jacket looks great & the leathers supple, despite being subject to a lot of california sun & sweat

Good question, and it pains me a bit that I have a small box of unused tools that were purchased when I began. I'm sure I missed a few things, but here you go:

• Lamp I love this thing, and it's silly how much it improved my craft.
  
• Utility knife (Stanley) with many replacement blades. I flip then toss these frequently.
  
• Shovel knife
  
• Beveler
  
• Burnishers
  
• Microfiber clothes
  
• Granite block
  
• Stitching pony (handmade and based upon http://www.instructables.com/id/3rd-Hand-Leather-Stitching-Clamp/)
  
• Awl
  
• Diamond Awl
  
• Wing Divider
  
• Pliers
  
• Craft scissors
  
• Thread snips
  
• Bone folder
  
• Mallet
  
• Cobbler hammer
  
• Ruler
  
• Cutting mat
  
• Detail brushes
  
• Needles
  
• Tokonole
  
• Glue
  
• Glue brushes
  
• 50/50 neatsfoot oil and beeswax (double-boiled)
  
• Heat gun
  
• Ritza Tiger thread
  
• Chisels I use these as pricking irons because they leave a massive hole
  
• Dremel
  
• Bulldog clips
  
  If links weren't provided then I already had the item.

Hey Guys, I just got Cole Haan Cambridge Oxfords and I am wondering what kind of leather care products i should buy and apply to preserve them? Thanks!

I'm going to purchase this to clean up my other leather boots (clarks deserts etc). do you think this would work as well?

Previous to this wallet, I carried a money clip for about a year. I found the clip to be too minimalist, as I do require some level of organization. I generally carry 5-6 cards (2 ID, 1 credit, 1 debit, 1 train card, and any business card I receive that day) and cash, and the available space in this wallet is spot on.

I would like to mention here that if you do decide on a leather wallet, or any leather goods for that matter, you should invest in some prime neatsfoot oil (the 8oz bottle is selected, yet it still shows the large jug). Take care of your leather products and they will last much longer.

Eu folosesc Kiwi 100% Horsehair Shine Brush.

Nu știu dacă e cea mai bună, dar asta folosesc eu și sunt mulțumit. A, da, și mă interesează foarte mult încălțămintea de calitate și am grijă de ea deci nu-s doar un noob care nu știe ce recomandă. Peria asta își face treaba și e ieftină.

Și dacă tot veni vorba, pentru bocanci recomand Fiebing's Yellow Saddle Soap și pentru bocanci negri recomand Obenauf's LP Boot Preservative și/sau Obenauf's Leather Oil.

Săpun doar pentru bocanci, nu pantofi, și Obenauf's stuff doar pentru piele neagră, o să schimbe culoarea altfel. Pentru pantofi sau bocanci la care nu vrei să se schimbe culoarea recomand refined coconut oil.

De evitat orice fel de cremă colorată. Aia e moartea pielii.

Try making your haybox less deep and with a higher lip, so it's at face level for them but they don't have room to sit in it.

Alternatively, you can get something like this but mine just pulled the hay out of it and threw it everywhere.

I also like this kind of hayrack.

As an aside (cause this is a lovely idea!) if you can find one of the heavier duty more rubber like buckets, I always feel more secure with one of them. Filling it up when the boat is moving actually puts a lot of force on them. I'll try and find a link to illustrate the type I mean.

Edit: one like this. You might be able to find something a bit more cost effective, but these things are indestructible.

That looks like salt stains. I would try [saddle soap] (https://www.amazon.com/Fiebings-Yellow-Saddle-Soap-Oz/dp/B00GRSVTK4/ref=sr_1_1_s_it?s=hpc&ie=UTF8&qid=1485095869&sr=1-1&keywords=Fiebings&th=1) then a good leather conditioner.

Also, you might try saddle soap to clean it up before you use a preservative. It might help to get rid of some of the staining.

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:

https://smile.amazon.com/Snow-Proof-Weatherproofing-Leather-Conditioner/dp/B013XS7MX8

---

^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

Our rabbits have this thing. You just stuff the ball full of hay, hang it from the side of their cage or fence, and they get to pick hay out of it and spin it around. You can also remove the mounting bracket and let them roll the ball around the floor, but keep in mind it will leave bits of hay everywhere they roll it, so it means more floor cleaning for you.

Oreo and Donut seem to have a lot of fun with it, and packing it full of hay lasts about one full day between the two of them.

Thanks.

Do you have any recommendation for a leather spray? I'm thinking of just using this leather/suede duo spray from amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Bickmore-Gard-More-Water-Repellent-Neutral/dp/B000HHLM9E/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=leather+shoe+spray&qid=1574817195&sr=8-4

• Feibings Saddle Soap
  
  Worked great on my yard sale leather sofa find.

Sure thing. I scoured the web and /r/MFA looking at guides until I settled on this method:

1. Rinse the shoes off in cool water to remove any loose debris.
   
2. Using a soft-head toothbrush, thoroughly scrub the shoes with a mixture of dish soap and water.
   
3. Blot the shoes dry with paper towel.
   
4. Using a cloth (I used an old undershirt), apply Saddle Soap to the shoes and leather insoles. Remove any excess soap with your cloth and let the shoes sit a few minutes to dry.
   
5. Using a new cloth, apply a conditioner to the shoes. I personally used coconut oil. Let sit and dry.
   
   Note: I linked to the products I personally used. Allen Edmonds also sells saddle soap in a much more reasonable 3 oz size. If you used too much coconut oil, you may see a white film develop. Just rub it off with your cloth. This guide was also helpful.

If is leather it needs conditioner as part of it regular maintenance, I would use something like snow-proof, it might darken it a bit but like I said leather needs conditioner or it will rot and crack.
https://www.amazon.com/Snow-Proof-Weatherproofing-Leather-Conditioner/dp/B013XS7MX8

Gonna need a few more details and pictures if possible.

1. What's the brand of leather cleaner? Leathers are not made equal and cleaners are formulated for different types. Just because it worked on a leather couch doesn't mean it's going to be ideal or even suitable for a shoe.
   
   
2. What's the shoe made out of? Leather oxfords can be made with lots of different types and require different care. Upholstery leather is very different from belt leather.
   
   
3. What's the extent of the cracking and damage. Smell isn't as big of a concern right now, that'll dissipate. The smell might have been caused by a chemical reaction with oils in the leather and leather cleaner. My concern would be visual damage and internal breakdown of the leather.
   
   Any oil or product you add will darken the leather, but that's just how it is. What I recommend for most things is Saddle Soap and Skidmore's Leather cream, but there's a lot of products out there, and even those might not be ideal for you.

I think SnoSeal and Huberd's Shoe Oil serve two different purposes:

• SnoSeal is primarily beeswax (paste), and (I'm speculating) it's primary purpose is waterproofing. I've never used SnoSeal, so I'm not sure how well it conditions leather.
  
  
• Leather oils are (obviously) oil-based, and their primary purpose is to penetrate and condition the leather. They might provide some water-resistance, too, especially if it contains mink oil. Oils will likely permanently darken the leather, if that's a concern.
  
  Personally, I use Effax Lederbalsam, which is a wax/oil paste, and it does a good job of conditioning and waterproofing. Another (likely overkill) alternative is Obenhauf's HDLP, which is a heavy-duty conditioner/waterproofer. I'd also get some saddle soap to clean the leather once or twice a year.

I'm guessing this is a good example of a Neatsfoot product?

I may pick some up. As you said it's cheap and I'm still building a collection of cleaning/conditioning products.

https://www.amazon.ca/Kaytee-Rabbit-Rollin-Hay-Holder/dp/B0006G7TCU this is what it looks like it hangs on the side of her cage.

You can buy special sinking pellets meant for bottom feeders, they are big so the betta probably wont go after them. Amazon sells a feeding ring you could train him to eat from in order to distract him from his tankmate's food.

I always get mine at Tractor Supply - but boot stores or western tack stores will have them too. Don't overpay. Saddle soap is, at most, $5 for a big can and the mink oil is around $2.50 for a tub.


These are what you're looking for - Fiebing's Yellow Saddle Soap, 12 Oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GRSVTK4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pryrybEQFBMRC


Fiebing's Golden Mink Oil Leather Preserver, 6 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HHQ42Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nsyrybQ1150G2


Amazon is high dollar on these things it appears.

I use Belvoir conditioner for my saddle's monthly conditioning.

I used Stubben Hamanol on my leather driving harness before I switched to a betathane harness. It works well and supposedly won't stretch the stitching, but takes a while to soak in and has a slight bacon scent.

You can use a floating feeding ring, it suction cups onto the side and floats on surface of the water.

I’ve gotten jean transfer off of my dune rep luggage with this before- Saddle Soap

What kind of boots are they? Can you post a picture? Generally you use saddle soap for leather and synthetics then thoroughly wiped with a damp cloth to remove any traces of soap, but it depends.

Here is the desktop version of your link

Have you tried using leather conditioner or cleaner? Once a year seems way too frequent. I bought a used saddle brown classic buckle a year ago (and it was already a year old at that point) and it is nowhere near needing replacement (admittedly, I only wear it once or twice a week).

If you do end up replacing the leather band, maybe consider rubbing some kind of weatherproofing treatment on it before you wear it so it holds up better to abuse this time. (for e.g., https://www.amazon.com/Snow-Proof-Weatherproofing-Leather-Conditioner/dp/B013XS7MX8)

You need to get her off the sand... it might make her happier and improve her appetite, although Rose Hair's are notorious for going on hunger strikes. I'd put her on one of these two:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002AQDYA/

http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Earth-Brick-Pack/dp/B001F998AS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1372339917&sr=8-2&keywords=zoomed+eco+earth

edit: removed a bad suggestion. The two good suggestions remain. Carry on.

1. Electric power steering. Very few cars have hydraulic power steering systems anymore.
   
   
2. One is the HVAC filter under the dash (dust & pollen). The other one is what the engine breathes through.
   
   
3. Wiper blades and fluid.
   
   Tire pressures (the TPMS only senses a difference in pressure in one or two tires, it will not alert you if all 4 are equally low).
   
   If you have leather seats, clean them with some [saddle soap](Fiebing's Yellow Saddle Soap, 12 Oz. - Cleans, Softens and Preserves Leather https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GRSVTK4/) every 6 months or so to keep them looking new.

Try some water and hard hard scrubbing with a rag first. If that doesn't work, use a little bit of dish soap diluted in water and more scrubbing. Lexol or some other leather cleaner would be the next option. Saddle Soap would be another step up.

If saddle soap doesn't get the stains out we will have to talk about going nuclear with something like renomat. Stuff this powerful really is harmful to the overall finish of the shoes.

If you aren't in the mood to damage your shoes, go with a dark polish to darken everything to the same color as the blemish.

clean it with saddle soap then oil the hell out of it with mink oil.

Totally, as long as its boot specific oil it should work fine. The most highly regarded brand (and what I personally use) is Obenaufs, it is a little more expensive but that tub should last about a year or so.

It's important to get the dirt off before oiling, some folks use Saddle Soap or similar to strip all the dirt/chemicals off first. Dirt and especially harsh chemicals can dry out and damage the leather if left on for extended periods. Personally, my boots are usually just dirty (no chemicals) so I give mine a good scrub with water, let em dry overnight, then use the oil on em. It's important to spend some time rubbing the oil in so that it really soaks in instead of just sitting on the surface. Some folks leave their boots in the sun for awhile to warm them up to aid absorption.

Anyway, I usually once every 2-3 weeks or whenever the leather seems dry (depends on the environment). You can over-oil boots, however, so I wouldn't do it more often than that myself.