(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best horse supplies

I don't have experience with building or buying cabinet to hide litter box, though you may do some googling around with diy searches for your specific box.

I do have experience with two other options of concealing litter boxes which I thought I would share based on past experience with old apartment, and recent experience with new apartment. They may be helpful if you don't mind switching.

Top entry box hidden in a hallway closet: https://www.overstock.com/Pet-Supplies/Clevercat-Innovations-Top-Entry-Litter-Box/6423254/product.html?

This one minimized litter being kicked out. This option was great solution in old apartment which I had extra space to keep the box in a spare hallway closet. It can also be kept in a utility closet with a door cracked open as it takes up minimal space. I threw in motion sense lights in the closet so my cat could see to more easily navigate getting around.

The option I use now in my living room is a covered litter box which looks like a plant: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000MPR2GI/ and I bought a tub to go inside of it so I could easily dispose of used litter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BD5DRQ/

I didn't want a cabinet because to make it look acceptable in the room, it'd need to be a side table and honestly I didn't want to smell cat s*** while sitting on the couch. This plant litter box is nice looking and it's easy enough to spray paint it another color. So far, so far with it. My cat hasn't even knocked off the fake plant on top.

It does an ok job of containing the smell. A good litter will help and so will cleaning daily. It does even look good in my living room and you wouldn't pick out that it's a cat litter box. I face the opening towards the wall so you "litter"ally cannot see the litter or entry opening.

Good luck with whatever you choose to do. It's no fun having an exposed kitty box out in the human living space so I hope you figure something out!

Hah, I should have paid attention to your username then I might have guessed you were in Wales.

Looking at the new photos you posted, if I were you I would not bother sending the razors to anyone to be professionally restored (but you will need to send them to someone to be professionally honed, i.e. sharpened). The blades look quite clean except for one bad spot of black corrosion on the back side of the tang (where you hold the razor) of the George Butler. Look in an automobile parts store, in the restoration/cleaning supplies aisle, and you should find a pack of steel wool in different grades (coarse, medium, fine). You can use it to try and clean off that corrosion but just be warned that it can put some scratches in the blade, nothing that will affect the performance but I don't like the look afterwards. The rest of the blade on both razors I would just clean with a rag and some metal polish (can get it when you get the steel wool) like Maas or Blue Magic. I don't like to clean my razors too much because I like the look of the patina (the greying) that builds up on vintage razors, shows character and age imo, plus I think it helps protect against rust.

I don't have anyone I know in the UK who hones straight razors. You can check the Ebay UK listings as I sometimes see people offering honing services there, usually around 15 pounds, but I cannot make any recommendations.

I would like to see more photos of the razor strop if you have it, of the handle in particular, so I can judge if it is genuine ivory. If so then I am very jealous, I can't remember seeing such a strop before. Personally I would keep the strop as-is to be a treasured heirloom. You can look for neatsfoot oil (made from cows) to treat the leather to try to preserve it, or you can use mineral oil or some other leather care product. If you would like to have the leather replaced on the strop then I would recommend Alastair with Westholme Strops as he is in the UK. His work is pricey but top-notch. This is the Westholme strop that I own.

A pretty good option is 3M VetWrap. Although not exactly comfortable enough to wear all the time, I love it for activities with a higher chance of the sensor getting snagged. Or times with lots of sweat that tends to take away the stickiness of the sensor. Another thing that's worked well (and better for everyday use) is Mastisol. It's super sticky, so you'd also need Detachol to remove it when it's time for a sensor change. I'm sure it's probably similar stuff to what others have suggested here, that's just what I've found to work for me. Good luck!!

The turpentine is for making the oil easier to spread and mix with the tar. I find it easiest to mix the turpentine and oil first, then add the tar. I have no idea where you would get tar in, I'm assuming the US? Here you can pretty much buy it in any paint store. Maybe something like this could work?. Don't know if it's the exact same, but it does say "100% light pine tar". No idea what the "light" means. If you somehow come across coal tar, stay the hell away. Unlike wood tar, coal tar is highly cancerogenic.

Turpentine is also great for thinning linseed oil paint. If you ever choose to try it, it's rewarding but time-consuming and a little tricky. But once you get the hang of it you'll have a nice smooth finish with a hard, lacquer-like surface and sheen. I would say compared to lacquer, it scratches easier but is not as sensitive to dents. The common advice is to go thinner-to-thicker, i.e turpentine/oil ratio 1:1, then 1:3 and the last coat pure oil paint.

Turpentine is made from pine trees and unlike mineral spirits/thinner it is biodegradable. Keep the stuff away from kids though, because it smells delicious. Like a mix between gasoline, forest, and soda pop.

It's a little-known fact even among the Swedes, but Sweden has a very rich culture of wood preservation techniques.

I'm a dog fanatic, so here is a list of awesome dog supplies for under $25, for those interested!
-[vet wrap] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UELUXNO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_9y2-yb13E3QJH) for any time you need to help your dog with his/her boo boo.
-[large chuck it ball] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0084DRJKO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_9z2-ybMRKYDYG) that my puppy is addicted to.
-[topical spray] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0025YKUIQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_mE2-ybRANQ1AN) to help with your doggos minor cuts.
-[slip lead] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004QJU7FE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_9F2-ybWB9FW9J) for quick trips outside.
-[Kong Zoom Groom] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002AR1A0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_DJ2-ybD5EXKZH) for brushing out those thick double coated pooches without tearing the coat or scratching the skin.
-[treat pouch] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JCWAWA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_LL2-yb1WKAR0N) for those fun training sessions!
-[large pet waterer] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0057LAGNS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_TN2-ybCVJN55F) so you don't have to keep filling up a bowl.
-[Kong Wobbler] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ALMW0M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_zP2-ybPN8N34J) for those really fast eaters.
-[Herm Sprenger Prong Collar] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I0F8702/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_4R2-yb0ZM4BGR), an excellent training tool for beginner and higher level dogs when used properly.
-[Red Barn dog food roll] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00008DFOG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_wU2-yb83KED07), great training treats, and you can cut them up into any size you want to.
Let me know if you want more!

Cupcake, you didn't "hit a nerve". You're hitting a buffet. People like you make me so happy about the choices I make and glad I'm not, literally, eating myself to death and value my health. You're enormous, huge, gigantic, disgusting. You're a cloven hooved, cow eyed, barnyard bovine. You should add "Livestock feedbag" to your Amazon "wish list". Lol I'll make it easy for you:

http://www.amazon.com/Outfitters-Supply-Classic-Leather-Feedbag/dp/B00M8F8ZTS/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1451160143&sr=8-9&keywords=feedbag

It's specially designed to allow you to breath while you're inhaling the enormous amounts of food you're ingesting. Lol

You can also add a Scootie to your "wish list":

http://www.amazon.com/Shoprider-Scootie-Wheel-Compact-Scooter/dp/B000O5G47O/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451160479&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=Scootie+puff+motorized+chair

I'm not the one who brought Trump up either. But I did support the idea that non-opposing participation in that sub can and should be used as a tool for how seriously to take someone.

I know and love a number of Trump supporters. And while I might value their friendship and non-political opinions, you better believe I take their political views with one of these.

So, the problem with DHGate is that there are so many flops out there. Its a hard lesson to learn. I've done it, sometimes on purpose because I'm a glutton for punishment LOL. There are a couple good sellers. Fubar has average quality and OC does actually have a DHGate storefront as well. I feel like though, mostly as a rep noob, its best to steer clear of DHGate/Aliexpress because its very easy to overpay for something that is not that great.

Conversely with a trusted seller you'll get a good product, sure you might overpay, relatively speaking, because you didn't comparison shop enough, but it will less likely be a subpar rep.

I clicked on your DHGate link and while the neverfull is not the worst, I do feel like you overpaid. There was a review I commented on yesterday where she paid $80. I've paid $80-$90 for a 3A neverfull as well. I think the biggest thing that stood out to me was the interior color, its way purple.

Anyway - to speed up patina you can use neatsfoot oil (my preference) and the glazing can be fixed with rejuvenate wood furniture markers - mahogany or walnut color. For canvas sheen, I use nuvinyl

I had a tweak playing racketball on a rainy day and it took nearly a year to get to 90% recovered. I did some rest, but eventually had to start playing again and avoiding the hits that I knew caused re-igniting the issue (backhand on the stretch).

What I did was I used "vet tape" with a wristband on top. It helped me a lot. I love it and I use it virtually every time I play.

I bought it as "athletic tape", but when I saw the brand ("Horse Supply" or something like that) and researched, I realized this is more commonly sold as "vet" tape. It's basically non-sticky soft tape that kind of "engages" with itself. It's used in animals as a bandage, because it does not pull their hair when it needs to be taken out.

This is the tape I got. If you dry it, you can reuse it a few times even though after the third time it does not stick well to itself, however, the wristband keeps it in place.

Also, do wrist warm ups!

When you dye the leather you're always going to have some dye residue leftover. In my experience I've only had issues with the dye leeching out when I haven't made the effort to 'clean' the leather after dyeing. My process is:

1. Dye the leather and let the dye set for 12+ hrs if possible
   
2. Use Saddle Soap on a rag and really work it into the dyed leather
   
3. Apply a light coat of mink oil or olive oil
   
4. If desired, use a sealant/finisher. I use Tan Kote and it works great, with no scent after it has dried
   
5. Apply beeswax and polish
   
   I've also found that leather will take up oil regardless of having put a sealer/finish onto it. For example, I made a piece with a thick coating of Super Sheen on it and it still quickly absorbs mink oil when I want to condition it.
   
   By the way - if you're looking to 'go natural' and/or not have issues with the dye fading out then you need to try Vinegaroon. The stuff works like a charm. Only issue is that it can be tough to get the vinegar smell out.

How about a Jolly Ball? My horse always throws her rubber grain pan around her pen, so I'm intending to buy her a Jolly Ball that she can throw around instead. There are also treat toys you can hang from the ceiling for them to munch on, and snack-filled toysthat they have to work at to get a reward. One of our horses has a Pas-a-Fier, and I'd say to go ahead and ignore the negative reviews people put up about their horses ignoring it. Our guy constantly plays with it until he can go out and run around. If you have more than one horse, you're pretty much guaranteed to find one who'll like it (unless you just plain have bad luck).

Jolly Balls and treat hangers tend to be the cheapest, and I've actually found that the mega-sizes of Kong dog toys work great for small ponies and miniature horses.

Hand tools are probably the most enduring examples of metalwork designs I can think of. Ever since we've been working metal, we've been making simple tools like hammers, tongs, planes, drills, and so forth. We've perfected these designs thousands of years ago. A blacksmith's hammer from 1016 is going to have pretty similar design to this one you can get right now.

Is a horse a pet?

Edit...

It appears that Horses are pets and as such...

https://www.amazon.ca/Spray-Concentrate-Ounce-Package-544936/dp/B000QFW65G/ref=sr_1_2?s=sports&ie=UTF8&qid=1478150906&sr=1-2

This is 8 grand for shampoo concentrate.

https://www.amazon.ca/Pro-Choice-Collection-Floral-Medium/dp/B003VV1LF8/ref=sr_1_1?s=sports&ie=UTF8&qid=1478150906&sr=1-1

This is a set of spurs again like 8 grand

https://www.amazon.ca/Royal-Hamilton-DB-600D-PRDIA-M-Diamond-Blanket/dp/B004V4FS12/ref=sr_1_3?s=sports&ie=UTF8&qid=1478150906&sr=1-3

This is a blanket... like 8 grand

https://www.amazon.ca/BATES-KIMBERLEY-SWINGING-FENDER-MEDIUM/dp/B002KQUK2K/ref=sr_1_20?s=sports&ie=UTF8&qid=1478150906&sr=1-20

Saddle 4400

See Toronto probably has the lowest ownership of horses and also has the most options for buying expensive gear and supplies for other pets near by. I think it is reasonable that the average spent on pets would be much higher in places that have Horses versus places that have cats.

Truman was having a really hard time getting enough hay from the feeder the rescue recommended. We found this bag feeder on Amazon and it’s worked out really well! Truman happily munches away throughout the day and night.

Tough 1 Miniature Canvas Hay Pouch, Purple https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002HOI75M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_oK.JDb7GV8MX3

You might try something like this for flies. I've never tried it myself, but friends who have used it really liked it.

Look at it logically. Chefs (especially high end ones) generally don't care about what steel they use, so even though I'm guessing rasp steel isn't the greatest Chefs wouldn't mind.

BUT

Chefs DO care if their knives go dull in a few seconds, and at 800 dollars, you've got every right to be steel snobby and a 14 dollar rasp probably doesn't cut it. Also, chefs will want a handle that they can be EXTREMELY precise with (just watch Gordon Ramsay scream about how things aren't evenly cut). Sure you can grab onto the blade but most chefs are moving at 100mph and could do with 10 extra hands let alone one. And finally the rasp/"grater" part is pretty far down the blade, so if you're chopping anything thicker than an inch or so you're going to "grate" the shit out of ONE SIDE of the food, which makes it uneven, which again, watch ramsay FLIP HIS SHIT any time his food isn't the most symmetrical thing in the universe.

So while she does have some high end clients, I don't think it's worth 800 bucks (admittedly for the largest knife). It's a cool idea, but I'm pretty sure most chefs will want a seperate knife and grater.

Pruning shears are great for general shaping and upkeep.

When their hooves get thick and a little out of control, the tool below works great.

Nippers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000F7WWWW?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

If her coat is like a lab's (I'm assuming) then you could follow our brush out procedure: comb thoroughly with a good metal comb, then curry comb, and finish up with a furminator-style tool. The metal comb will pull out any hunks of undercoat, the curry combs pulls out loose top coat, and the furminator will pull out much of the remaining undercoat. If you do it right, shedding will be much reduced for at least a couple of weeks.

Just be sure not to overdo it with the curry and furminator. You can absolutely cause bald patches if you go too crazy with them.

You don't need to bath them in advance, and high velocity driers are not worth the expense for regular dog owners IMO.

These are the tools we use:

• greyhound comb
  
• curry comb
  
• "furminator"
  
  Don't buy a name brand Furminator--the knockoffs are basically identical and way cheaper. And while the comb is a bit expensive, it is by far and away the best I've ever used in 20 years of grooming.

I got hugged by a random stranger at Crossroads and it went on a little longer than I was comfortable, for one.

My current grievance is that I'm shopping for horse ball toys on Amazon (our barn has a Christmas wish list, if anyone's feeling charitable) and it's so much harder than I thought it would be. But, it led me to this gem: Uncle Jimmy's Hangin' Balls and I can't stop laughing, especially at the reviews. /u/liloving of course I thought of you... :)