Reddit mentions: The best horse health supplies

First off stuff to buy.

1. Crate. Unfortunately from my personal experience you will likely end up with 2. I got the largest I could find locally and it worked well for the first year or so and had a nice divider so that crate training worked well, but by time Minnie was full grown it was too short for her and ended upgrading to this massive beast and she loves it
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005VVWBVY/
   
   
2. Beds are a waste as others have said, they will look for what ever is cold and will lay in some of the most awkward positions you can imagine. So with that said i recommend the following pad if you are going to spend quite a bit of time in a room that is carpeted. Its filled with water and does a good job making a cool spot for them to lay. If you are handy i recommend getting some thin fabric and making like a giant pillow case for it as it will make cleaning it 100x easier and will further prevent rips from their claws (although it is quite durable on its own)
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003KK60R4/
   
   
3. Dryer. This you wont need now, but once their adult coat starts coming in around a year and they are swimming more a high velocity dryer really makes a huge difference in getting them dry and keeping their skin in good condition. I recommend googling this a bit and looking at some reviews. These can get pricey but generally you get what you pay for. I personally went with the B-Air Bear Power 4hp model, but it comes and goes in terms of availability at a decent price.
   
   
4. Toys, they really can do a number on toys so you'll probably want to skip most plush toys and stick to the more heavy duty canvas and chew resistant toys. Generally dont spend a ton on toys because they will likely be destroyed, keep an eye on them and take them away once they really get into them and starts ripping them apart. The one brand I will however absolutely recommend is Chuck-it. They are the Orange and blue toys and I have no idea what they make their toys out of but we have several of their large balls that are going on 3 years old still in like new condition. Minnie can chew them like bubble gum and hasn't managed to destroy one. their water bumpers are nearly as indestructible.
   
   
5. Flea and Tick meds. This will likely be controversial because ask 10 people and you will get 11 answers. But we started Minnie on Advantix II and it worked amazing, as long as you applied it frequently. Its once a month under ideal conditions, but with heavy swimming it can be as little as once every 2 weeks. As long as you are applying it on schedule it does great. Never saw anything on her and we are in New England where the tick season has been crazy the last year or two. However the cost and application timing was getting a bit much so we switched to the Sorresto collar and it appears to be working just as well (doesn't protect against mosquito like the advantix however but with their fur i figure thats a minimal issue). The advantage is with the collar is that its good for 5 months even with regular baths / swimming. So overall the cost is lower and you arent having to keep reapplying it.
   
   
6. food and water bowls. I found these on amazon and love them. they are good and heavy, dishwasher safe and nice and large. For the price they have been amazing. The nice thing is with their weight that Minnie doesnt try to move them around to flip them over if she splashes in her water bowl. I got the 9.5" version. One note of caution, they can get chipped in shipping, so really look them over if you get them. Amazon is great on exchanging them if you get one not in perfect shape.
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002AS5QY/
   
   
7. Health and wellness. Where possible dont buy "dog" things here. A good example is if you end up having to do dewormer. Panacur-C is quite expensive because its done by weight. The same medicine is sold on amazon / Tractor Supply for goats at a much lower cost and you can easily calculate dosage based on what the mg in the comparable Panacur-C package. Same goes for probiotic. Like we use this and its lasted close to 2 years and its been a much better value than buying the dog version.
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0088OKQIQ/
   
   
8. Microchipping. If you have a VIP pet care in your area they do the chip and lifetime registration for under $20.
   
   
9. Food. As a pup its important to find a food that has a low calcium content. Eukanuba Large breed puppy is one of the few that I've found that meets this. You want less than 1%. As they get older you will want to find a quality food. Kirkland Salmon is affordable and gets good feedback.

My dog also has allergies so I know how exhausting this fight can be. I just want to share some of what I've picked up along the way, some of it might be new, some you've probably heard before...
Also, it seems like you've done a lot to address the symptoms, but what about the root cause? Steroids, Apoquel, Benadryl, etc are not cures. You need to get to the source of the problem!

-Have you tried probiotics? Has your dog ever been prescribed antibiotics? If so, you definitely need to read up on probiotics if you haven't already. And yeast infections. Especially if your dog has recurring ear infections, which is a sign that her normal, healthy flora is out of balance.

-Nu-stock ointment works wonders on hot spots, ear infections, and more. Read the reviews on Amazon for more details
https://www.amazon.com/Durvet-001-0530-Nu-Stock-Ointment-12-Ounce/dp/B000HHSIYQ

-Povidone Iodine soaks have been very effective for us. Like Nu-stock, this only addresses the symptoms, so you cannot expect this to resolve the skin issues forever. They will return if you don't remove the trigger.

-You said you tried special food, but you didn't mention what type or brand? We've had good luck with Orijen 6 fish and Taste of the Wild Pacific Stream. Both of these only have fish as a meat. I've also heard good things about kangaroo meat (seriously), but we haven't tried that yet. Chicken, beef, dairy, grains, are all common triggers. So is anything that yeast feed off of, like sugar. Apparently oatmeal based shampoos can also feed the yeast.

-She might have environmental allergies. It took months for my sister to narrow her dogs allergen down to her carpet. They replaced it all with hardwood flooring and her dog was relieved of his itchiness. I can elaborate on environmental triggers if you'd like. Just let me know...



So, that's just a few things I've picked up along the way. I'm not an expert on any of it, so please do your own research.

I genuinely hope this helps in some way!



**Edit- I forgot to mention fleas. It sounds like you are pretty on top of things, so you probably have that issue covered. Comfortis works best for us, as all topical applications seem to no longer be effective. If we are a couple days behind on his dose, the itchy fits return full force.

Bactrim is fine for pigs, and is typically successful in treating URIs. Side effects are quite rare as it is a milder antibiotic, but it's possible that it could cause digestive upset. If you wanted to be on the safe side, you can give your pigs some probiotics an hour or two after their Bactrim dose. Probiotics aren't likely necessary but it won't hurt them if you want to do it anyway for your peace of mind. Even more rare side effects (but also more serious) are loss of appetite, severe diarrhea, and lethargy. Contact your vet if you notice those.

Because Bactrim is gentler it's a good 'first' option to treat infections, especially for young guinea pigs. There is a chance that it may not be effective if the infection is sufficiently advanced or simply antibiotic-resistant. If your pigs aren't starting to improve after 3 days, or if they ever worsen after beginning treatment, call your vet as they'll likely need a different antibiotic (usually Baytril, but not always).

Probiotic info:

Safe probiotics to feed guinea pigs are fresh poops from a healthy guinea pig if you can get it (this is believed to be the most effective, plus it's free ;D), or if not you can sprinkle some powder from an acidophilus capsule on their pellets, or a probiotic meant for small animals like BeneBac (comes in gel or powdered form, and is usually carried by pet stores and vets) or Probios powder. Pigs don't do well with dairy, so avoid yogurt or other dairy products.

Amazon links (if you live in the US): Benebac gel tubes and Probios powder (a big tub like this is overkill for your situation, but it is another option)

I'm certain there are plenty other probiotic options that will also work fine, these are just the ones I've used and know of off the top of my head. It's also a good thing to consider keeping on hand just in case.

Guinealynx page on probiotics

All good recommendations here – having a harness / backpack with a good sturdy handle on top is invaluable in situations where you might need to help your pup up and over an obstacle.

Things that haven't been listed yet:

• Vet Wrap is a great addition to your first aid kit for both canine and human injuries. It sticks to itself, but not to anything else – perfect for fur (and really hairy human legs)
  
• Quick Clot is nice to have for dog injuries since dogs cannot understand "stop moving and hold pressure on this point."
  
• If your hike is somewhere with rattlesnakes, the rattlesnake vaccine is recommended. (Note – the rattlesnake vaccine doesn't make your dog impervious to snake bites, just gives you more time to evacuate them in the event that the do get bitten. It's not a miracle drug, but worth it if you need it.)
  
• Booties are nice to have in your pack in case the terrain is rougher than you expect – easier to throw on a pair of booties preemptively than carry a dog with roughed up paws. Make sure you're keeping an eye on the paws so that you can add extra protection before the pads are damaged.
  
  Hope that helps! The most important thing to remember to bring is your own common sense. Your dog will push himself past his limits if you let him – it's your job to keep both of you safe. Have a great hike!
  

Hi, pharmacy tech (for humans) here.

I noticed that the active ingredient in several of the shampoos/lotions/wipes you're using is chlorhexidine gluconate. Now I'm not sure if the strength is comparable, but that solution is available over the counter under the brand name Hibiclens (along with whatever store brands there might be). You can also buy a whole gallon of the stuff on Amazon for about $23 (I just googled the name of the chemical). I'm sure there's other ingredients in those expensive wipes, but if that's the only active ingredient, maybe it could save you a little money to buy it in bulk online!

Anyway, you're great for doing this for your animal and not just abandoning him! Kudos OP :)

Edit: here's the link to the product I found http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00061MU9W?vs=1

We just took her to the vet Sunday so I didn't get to order it until Monday morning, but it shipped very quickly. Here are the links to what I ordered.

Shampoo

Goodwinol


Nu-stock


I would have done this last night, but I replied to you on my phone. The vet said apply twice a day to spots until healed. The Nu-Stock was of my own choice and I'm sure it's the same application, but I haven't read the directions yet. Regardless, it seems like a product I want to have on hand for just about anything....human or animal, so I figured why not? As far as the shampoo goes, I just looked around on Amazon and read reviews. I'm not expecting that to be the cure, I'm just hoping that helps relieve the itching until the ointment can kick in. I was initially going to order something else, but this was more shampoo for my dollar.....which is always best.

I get Durvet Nu-Stock Ointment from Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HHSIYQ/

Important tip if you order this ointment: put it in two ziploc gallon bags before storing it in your bathroom closet. The double bagging makes sure none of the rotten egg smell permeates you closet. Also, store the tube cap-side up. The ointment is only sulfur and mineral oil (safe even to use on cats!) but the cap doesn't hold the oil in very well. I know it seems like a lot of hub-bub, but it's the best and most inexpensive way to get a good amount of skin-safe sulfur in my bath.

For the bath: I add some nice smelling bath foam first. I let the water fill about half-way, then sqeeze a couple tablespoons-ish of ointment into my hand. Sulfur is a bit heavy, so I mix it into the bath away from the drain so it doesn't sink into the drain stopper before it has a chance to get dissolved by the bath. There's usually a yellow residue left behind when I drain the bath, but it splashes off easily. Another plus, there's been no mold or mildew to scrub off my bathtub in months.

A pretty good option is 3M VetWrap. Although not exactly comfortable enough to wear all the time, I love it for activities with a higher chance of the sensor getting snagged. Or times with lots of sweat that tends to take away the stickiness of the sensor. Another thing that's worked well (and better for everyday use) is Mastisol. It's super sticky, so you'd also need Detachol to remove it when it's time for a sensor change. I'm sure it's probably similar stuff to what others have suggested here, that's just what I've found to work for me. Good luck!!

The turpentine is for making the oil easier to spread and mix with the tar. I find it easiest to mix the turpentine and oil first, then add the tar. I have no idea where you would get tar in, I'm assuming the US? Here you can pretty much buy it in any paint store. Maybe something like this could work?. Don't know if it's the exact same, but it does say "100% light pine tar". No idea what the "light" means. If you somehow come across coal tar, stay the hell away. Unlike wood tar, coal tar is highly cancerogenic.

Turpentine is also great for thinning linseed oil paint. If you ever choose to try it, it's rewarding but time-consuming and a little tricky. But once you get the hang of it you'll have a nice smooth finish with a hard, lacquer-like surface and sheen. I would say compared to lacquer, it scratches easier but is not as sensitive to dents. The common advice is to go thinner-to-thicker, i.e turpentine/oil ratio 1:1, then 1:3 and the last coat pure oil paint.

Turpentine is made from pine trees and unlike mineral spirits/thinner it is biodegradable. Keep the stuff away from kids though, because it smells delicious. Like a mix between gasoline, forest, and soda pop.

It's a little-known fact even among the Swedes, but Sweden has a very rich culture of wood preservation techniques.

Hey! Of course my advice to you would be to take him to a vet but since you've said that you can't see one for another month and a half, I agree with other commenters that you should discontinue frequent bathing and get him a cone. To add onto this, however, I would give this product a try. It is non-toxic, stops itching, and helps to promote healing and regrowth of new skin and fur. Because it smells (and tastes) absolutely foul the animal shouldn't lick it off either.

It has worked extremely well for my cat when she develops hot spots and has worked wonders for my pup when he cut himself on his belly.

Good luck and I hope your pup feels better.

My dogs seem to get stinky when they eat foods with too much protein, so I've actually been feeding them high quality foods that only are about 26% protein (both my dogs are pretty inactive).

One of my dogs was getting a lot of seemingly spontaneous diarrhea, and so the vet had us try probios (a probiotic powder). He gets a scoop of it in his food in the morning, he's been on it for about 2 months now, and no diarrhea! We adopted him about 8 months ago and his stools never were really firm, and sometimes we could hear his tummy/intestines gurgling. We tried different foods, different tests at the vet, no luck until this. I was extremely skeptical but it really does seem to be helping, and it's cheap so why not. You can get the probiotic powder really cheap on amazon (it's almost twice as expensive from the vet here), I'll post the link below, but I do want to warn that the probiotic may increase your dog's appetite, so you may have to feed more than you have been. My dog got really grumpy shortly after starting it and we realized he was just much hungrier than usual. This is probably because my dog wasn't eating as much since he wasn't feeling well before, but it's something to keep in mind.

Good luck, I hope your pup feels better soon!

http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B001BM1QRC/ref=twister_B002HNOSYC

Try a chlorhexidine soak. It's people safe, used in mouthwashes and pre surgical scrubs but also used as a disinfectant in veterinary medicine. I found several studies that says it's very effective against yeast such as candida. This study says it works at only .2% solution. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4834379/

We buy it on Amazon in a jug of 2% solution and dilute it for cleaning. We learned about it when we got a ball python because they are very delicate but it's a safe option to sanitize the tank. This is the listing we buy from. It's for animals but I'm sure it's fine since you'll be washing it out afterwards anyway. I'd do an overnight soak of anything diaper related.

Chlorhexidine 2% for Horses & Dogs, One Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HHNZVW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-OdJDbSJY84W3

I had a tweak playing racketball on a rainy day and it took nearly a year to get to 90% recovered. I did some rest, but eventually had to start playing again and avoiding the hits that I knew caused re-igniting the issue (backhand on the stretch).

What I did was I used "vet tape" with a wristband on top. It helped me a lot. I love it and I use it virtually every time I play.

I bought it as "athletic tape", but when I saw the brand ("Horse Supply" or something like that) and researched, I realized this is more commonly sold as "vet" tape. It's basically non-sticky soft tape that kind of "engages" with itself. It's used in animals as a bandage, because it does not pull their hair when it needs to be taken out.

This is the tape I got. If you dry it, you can reuse it a few times even though after the third time it does not stick well to itself, however, the wristband keeps it in place.

Also, do wrist warm ups!

I highly recommend it. It helps me get support for my hands and other joints. I like it more than compression gloves or other options. I can choose what areas need support, and the tape only sticks to itself. I buy a variety pack of different colors and usually coordinate with my outfits.

Link to the one I buy for anyone interested: 2 Inch Vet Wrap Tape Bulk... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UEHDRQI?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I know I've seen it at Target/CVS/Walgreens/etc, and definitely on Amazon. It's amazing, and some places sell it in colors, so you can match to something fun! (first link I saw, not necessarily the best) -- I recommend doing a test run with it before you go to Disney, just so you're familiar with how it sticks.

https://www.amazon.com/WildCow-Wrap-Bandages-Assorted-Colors/dp/B01I62O0CM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1538520267&sr=8-2&keywords=vet+wrap

The first piece of advice I always give people is: Go to the Vet. Seriously. Do it. Just because someone else on the internet says "Oh that looks like XYZ..." doesn't mean it is. After 4 years volunteering/fostering for a Bulldog Rescue and with two of my fosters currently dealing with paw/skin issues, I can tell you there's many things it could be. The two fosters paw issues look similar, but are two different things so they must be treated differently. One has Inter-Digital Cysts and MRSA, and the other has Demodex. Both treated differently. Yours could be an allergy, hotspot, anything really. So go to the Vet and depending on where you live, look for a Vet that specializes in Bulldogs. If you're in the Southern California area, I can recommend two of the best.

Secondly, buy your self this stuff I'm going to link. You can use it for all sorts of things: Paw soaks, wrinkle cleaning, treating/cleaning of wounds, etc. This gallon bottle will last you at least a year, where as the 16oz bottle you'd get from a Vet wouldn't and could cost up to twice the price of the gallon. (My apologies for the link length/formatting, I'm in mobile.)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00061MU9W/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_mvV1tb0RC5WN07T7

Our vet recommended and sold us a bottle of chlorohexidine solution. The solution is very, very dilute. I found a gallon of 2% solution on amazon. This is enough to make 50 gallons of what you need. We used this when we first got our porkchop. It works great.

Chlorhexidine 2% for Horses & Dogs, One Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HHNZVW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_LJVBDbYNCH7RD

I use self-adherent wrap.

It sticks well, doesn't adhere to hair, easy to tear/cut/remove.

It does get tighter with time though, and be careful over the nose because of this. Otherwise it's great.

One of my subs has tiny flexible hands, prone to escaping any wrist tie. I bind her hands into fists with this stuff - no more escaping.

https://www.amazon.com/Adherent-Adhering-Stick-Bandage-Inches/dp/B00MKAHMFO/ref=pd_sbs_121_9?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00MKAHMFO&pd_rd_r=YSRSCFZV9AN9BEYVXD1T&pd_rd_w=qclDb&pd_rd_wg=beZhd&psc=1&refRID=YSRSCFZV9AN9BEYVXD1T

This is the answer. Or the generic analog, which is dramatically less expensive. The point to which it can still be diluted and be perfectly effective is remarkable.


A gallon of generic costs as much as 32oz of the brand name

Worth noting that the generic is lower concentration.

FWIW, research shows that going as low as .4% does not affect efficacy.

TOTW is a great kibble, keep him on it. Just add a simple puppy multivitamin to his daily food. I would also maybe stop the fruits and veggies for a wee bit just until his mange clears up. Added sugar can cause extra yeast in the hair follicles and that's where the mites are. Unfortunately, there's no way to get rid of the mites, they typically live on the dog problem free, but the issue they cause is when the dogs immune system is unable to keep them in check and they start to eat the healthy hair and cells. I would suggest just taking him off the fungal shampoo, there's no need for it, since the mites are not fungus related. I would try to find a benzoyl peroxide shampoo (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JBCGQNS?pc_redir=1404533472&robot_redir=1) and an ointment like this (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000HHSIYQ/ref=pd_aw_sims_1?pi=SY115) and you should be set!

FortiFlora is pretty expensive for the amount that you get, and actually has a few less varieties of microbes in it than the product I've been using, Probios. If you're going to be dosing more than 1 animal, or giving supplements for an extended period, the tub of Probios is a much better option.

This is what I use for my 3 GSDs:

https://www.amazon.com/COX-VETERINARY-Joint-Compound-Quart/dp/B00938UJ9M/

Wayyy cheaper than buying the canine variation they have and this is more concentrated. For the first week I'd give two teaspoons worth, then after that I do one teaspoon as maintenance. All mine weigh ~75lbs each. It does make a huge improvement as they get older!

Salt blocks are a better deal and cows love them.

Oh you can also buy pure acetylsalicate, which is aspirin. You can get a tub of the stuff on amazon. It's marketed for horses, but it's just a chemical so humans can use it. I use it and it works great https://www.amazon.com/ANIPRIN-EQ-ASPIRIN-16-OUNCES/dp/B004QH96NK

Or if you prefer normal pills, I also use this one that is just aspirin and corn starch. https://www.amazon.com/Bottled-Aspirin-1000-bottle-NSAID/dp/B0006GE5F4/

Not CBD or THC related but you might try some horse liniment gel that you get from western stores (like cowboy hats, boots, saddles) It has arnica in it and I've used it on my joints and it definitely helps. This is what I use

Scabies is incredibly infectious. If you are itching, you have it. If you notice little red dots on your skin, you have it.

Get this: http://www.amazon.com/Duvet-001-0530-Nu-Stock-Ointment-12-Ounce/dp/B000HHSIYQ/ref=cm_cr_pr_pb_t

50/50 mixture with your favorite lotion, apply liberally to your whole body. Repeat weekly. You should be fine.

Don't hug your mom anymore. Make sure she gets this. She will feel relief in 12 hours. It is very effective.

apply it at night before bed, put towels on the ground, this stuff gets everywhere.

Smells like low tide, but fortunately doesn't stain!

Vet wrap! It's this stretchy med tape that sticks to itself, is water proof, and creates grip for the lil guys. I also considered using some sort of fine sand paper on a couple spots for their nails like a 180 but I wasn't sure if it would hurt their feet. I got a multi color box of 4 inch wrap for about 20 bucks on amazon with plenty of leftover for future projects and injuries if need be.

I had looked for smaller, but the ace I went to only had 1/2 inch and bigger. Maybe they sell smaller pvc at a bigger store?

And just a tip if you're like me I would just buy a ton of extra connector pieces and then return what you don't use. I tried to be exact, but when I actually started cutting and building it I found myself altering the shape and design a lot leading to three trips to the store. The top platform is actually a cutting board I sliced up. Also I glued mostly everything together except to top perch and the individual stair pieces so they're movable still. Hope that helps--if you do make one post pics!

Here's the wrap I bought--
12 pack 4" Vet Wrap Assorted Colors

One thing you can safely do now is get yourself a gallon of Chlorhexaiine and start using it on a regular basis to clean his vivarium and everything in it. Chlorhexidine will help kill any YF spores that may be present, as well as a long of other nasties that can attack a Beardie with a compromised immune system.

The one thing it cannot do is kill Coccidia spores -- you need ammonia for that (bleach won't kill Coccidia).

You can also use Chlorhexidine topically on your Beardie, but hold off on that until you get the diagnosis. Using it in the viv is safe and something I do periodically.

Nu-Stock works like a charm!!
https://www.amazon.com/Duvet-001-0530-Nu-Stock-Ointment-12-Ounce/dp/B000HHSIYQ

I use this. It's pretty expensive but it lasts pretty long. It allows the skin to breathe while keeping a barrier to the skin.

For anyone who is interested, look into chlorohexidine solution for cleaning up after the animals. You dilute it using water so a jug lasts forever, and it's much safer than bleach for animal boxes/cages/toys.

> I just make sure to chew first as I don't want it to stick to the side of my stomach lining and cause internal bleeding.

What does that mean exactly? How does chewing it help it not stick to your stomach lining? What do you think about bulk acetylsalicylic acid in water https://www.amazon.com/ANIPRIN-EQ-ASPIRIN-16-OUNCES/dp/B004QH96NK

> generic brands are full of buffer, stick to Bayer.

Have you ever looked at GeriCare? The only inactive ingredient is corn starch. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006GE5F4/

Found these. They're probably the same as what you're talking about. Great tip!

1. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00OGKPJB0/
   
   
2. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00A3UUNZO/

I traditionally use Hibiclens Antimicrobial skin cleaner that is a Chlorhexidine Gluconate Solution 4.0% when I come into contact with something that is really dirty or that is likely bacteria-ridden (really dirty house work/yard work/bathroom cleaning, etc). Recently I saw that there are Chlorhexidine Gluconate 2% solutions on Amazon for much cheaper than the Hibiclens, but it says it is only for horses and dogs.

​

Is it possible to use the 2% solutions without skin irritation? Why are they just listed as for horses and dogs?

​

Link 1 to Hibiclens

Link 2 to 2% Chlorhexidine Gluconate Solution

Mineral oil: http://www.amazon.com/UltraCruz-Mineral-Oil-Light-gal/dp/B00OGKPJB0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1457449602&sr=8-3&keywords=mineral+oil+gallon

Beeswax: http://www.amazon.com/YELLOW-1LB-Must-Different-Projects-Including-Deodorant-Furniture/dp/B00B3U0FW4/ref=sr_1_1_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1457449622&sr=8-1&keywords=beeswax

Get those two things and mix 1/4th beeswax & 3/4th mineral oil. Warm it up in a double boiler system or just put a wide mouth mason jar in a small pot with warm water till it all dissolves. Let it cool and solidify.

Its cheap to make your own. Its fun. And you'll have a shit ton of butcher block wax. Plus, lots of mineral oil to initially treat your cutting boards before the wax mixture.

Hotel room
This
This
This
maybe this

Be safe, have fun

Vet wrap is cheap and easy. https://www.amazon.com/Adherent-Adhering-Stick-Bandage-Inches/dp/B00MKAHMFO

If you're having problems with cleaning your hides, go into your local vet and ask if you can buy Chlorhexidine from them. It's what they use to clean and sterilize their tools and cages, and works wonders for getting rid of odors and cleaning up.
You can order the generic from Amazon, but sometimes vets will give you the "for Vets only" stuff.) Chlorhexidine on Amazon

Don't worry about swapping out hides too much, unless you're doing it all the time. Too much swapping can cause stress, but changes every once in a while will encourage exploration. :D

It's not water, it's Mineral Oil. There is noting special to it. Buy a fish tank, put PC in it, fill with mineral oil, turn it on.

Also Vet Wrap? It may help bandaging it if the rest of his tail is shaved.

I bought some Chlorhexidine Solution but since summer's gone and my dogs don't swim anymore we haven't needed to use it yet. So I can't vouch for it's efficacy unfortunately, but if you haven't tried something similar, it may be worth it.

Check out the reviews, especially the most top rated one about proper dilution.

Well I would start by using a pure aspirin powder. The affect of the other chemicals present in a tablet might change the concentration of H3O+ ions.

Tack shops, ie places that sell things for horse owners, sell mineral oil by the gallon.

Also amazon

https://www.amazon.com/Durvet-Mineral-Oil/dp/B000HHLUE6

Amazon - but any farming type of store will have it

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HHLUE6?keywords=mineral%20oil&m=A3O88P8V9WW2SX&qid=1458158085&ref_=sr_rp_1&sr=sr-1

Ah, http://www.amazon.com/Bimeda-Inc-Chlorhexidine-Solution-gallon/dp/B00061MU9W

There's probably a human version of this, but I'm familiar with the pet version. It's a soft gauze type wrap that sticks to itself and you can wrap/unwrap as necessary. The pet store sells it sterile and cheap...plus you can get ones with decorations on it.

https://www.amazon.com/Adherent-Adhering-Stick-Bandage-Inches/dp/B00MKAHMFO

Once had a German Shepard that did this, we wrapped the paw in gauze, then put a sock over it until he healed up. Or there is a self adhesive bandage that sticks to itself that you can use to wrap it.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00MKAHMFO/ref=pd_aw_sim_sbs_199_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0VHTZMPQVSDETGQB9TQA&dpPl=1&dpID=91gVYfVUntL

It's not like I am submitting posts that detail all of the many problems with his testing. You told OP that he should make a purchasing decision based on Pete's testing, I told OP that he should take Pete's testing with a grain of salt. (ok, maybe one of these.)

My suggestion is that both of you use this information as a basis for your own testing and draw your own conclusions.

Realistically, though, if OP learns how to sharpen and maintain his knives through the process I outlined elsewhere in this thread he will likely discover that the knives he already has are more than sufficient as functional cutting tools.

At the very least, he will have better results than spending $150 on a new knife and never sharpening it. At least as a cutting tool. The issue of pocket jewelry and status symbol are another matter altogether.

kinds off topic but if you look at the MSDS of Hoppes lubricating oil it appears to be just white mineral oil in a bottle that goes for $410 per liter.

You could get the same thing for slightly less money if you don't need the fancy bottle. I think if you buy this you'll be paying about 5 bucks a liter instead $410.

I might be missing something though, Hoppes might have additives that I didn't see.