Reddit mentions: The best household cleaning brushes

Thanks, I'm glad you like it!

And I'm always happy to share the joys of drawing! I may not be the best guide, but here is a summary of what I did:

For this, we decided on a happy group photo that would show the bond of the group. First step, plan it out in your head. I tried to think of where to place characters where each would have fair visibility and the colors would be evenly distributed. I drew a very quick sketch for the commissioner, to make sure we were on the same page (and to inspire their confidence in me, which I'm sure this did!): https://i.imgur.com/Zkw49dJ.jpg

Upon approval, I drew a new simple version full sized: https://i.imgur.com/E3Hs4cN.jpg
I started with the basic shapes of each character. Just circles and rectangles to block out where they would fit. I try to keep it very light so you can erase and move things as needed! I start adding details to the parts I think will be hardest (Usually faces, my thought is better to mess up early on than towards the end...though I can't remember the last time I messed up enough to start over. Years ago! :D ).

I sent this out again for approval and to get some feedback on positioning. After I got the okay, I just started adding details and darkening lines until I got here: https://i.imgur.com/xOv0mm4.jpg
At that point it was ready to color!

For single characters, I'm confident enough that I usually just start at the head and work my way down drawing full detail and dark lines. I don't bother with blocking out basic shapes unless I'm doing a really unusual pose.

Some simple things that helped me get better:

• Use good quality, large paper. I like smooth bristol board. It makes erasing easier, lines look cleaner, and the larger you draw the easier it is to add details. This drawing was done on 14 x 17 in Bristol. Pencils don't really matter. I use cheap bic .5mm lead mechanical pencils.
  
• Clean your drawings with a drafting brush! It may seem silly, but it helps to keep lines clean if you erase a lot like me!
  
• Most importantly: practice.
  
  I hope this helps! If you want more detail on any part of it let me know. Drawing is a great, cheap hobby. If you do end up drawing something I'd love to see it!
  
  *Edit: formatting

I had to break this into another comment due to per comment character limits.

The following previously belonged to the above comment, but was moved here due to the above mentioned limts.

> Something you can do now: Build a filament drybox. Seriously, some filaments such as certain Nylons can go bad in just a few hours, depending on ambient humidity levels. All filaments are susceptible to moisture absorption, and ideally should be kept in something like a Spannerhands holder, even while printing, but at worst you should store them in a big plastic tub with silica gel beads to keep them dry.

> If I had to give one last tip, don't stock up on too much filament yet! Seriously! I thought I would be printing mostly in PLA but now that I've had a few weeks to work with it, I've learned I prefer PETG more, and now I have so much extra PLA! I'm sure I'll find something to do with it, but for my final tip I would add "And get a good variety!". Services like MakerBox (referral) let you try a bunch of different filaments on the cheap. It's not a ton of each filament (about 50g), but I love the variety of materials and colors.

Original second level comment begins:

Final Tips: Bonus Round!

1. Extruder Indicators are pretty cool (and USEFUL). You can get the magnets super cheap (or amazon).
   
2. Learn how to do An Atomic Pull (AKA Cold Pull), and learn it well. Do this every time you switch filaments (See "Doing it the lazy way" at the bottom of the page). You'll help remove built up deposits each time, which will help ensure a long, jam free life for you nozzle. This also skips the bleeding necessary when switching filaments (on your next "Load" you'll get a few mm of old filament and then pretty much pure new filament after that, instead of the 100mm or so of transition). You can skip doing a proper Cold Pull if you're using a brand new printer anyway. Just do a lazy pull each time you switch filaments, and then a proper Cold Pull maybe every 100 print hours, or after using extremely difficult (wet or super exotic) filaments to help remove any residue that may cause future jams or other issues. This does require undoing and redoing the idler tension again, but once you've done it a few times you can do the whole pull and filament swap in under a minute (minus hotend heatup/cooldown time). White Nylon is great for proper Cold Pulls, partially because you can crank the temp up very high (which ensures any residual filament in the hot end should also melt), White PLA would be okay for example, but may not properly pull PETG or ABS from the nozzle. White is great thanks to the color, of course, which allows you to see any residue easier; However, any color may be used. If you only ever use PLA, then PLA would be just fine for a Cold Pull. Seriously though, start by doing Cold Pulls from Day 1 and you'll easily cut out 50% of your future issues.
   
3. The small metric fasteners used in the printer are cheap. They are used in a lot of designs found online, so you should stock up (alternate source). The primary fasteners used are M3 Socket Head Cap 0.5 pitch, mostly full thread. You can also get the nuts very cheap. Square, Nyloc, and Hex. I can get the exact lengths used in the Mk3 if anyone needs them, though I'm not sure the exact grade used, it only really effects corrosion resistance.
   
4. You can also Calibrate the Extruder steps/mm and extrusion multiplier. Many people will tell you only the later is necessary but I prefer to do both anyway. Theoretically it does make a difference, but practically you can just compensate for steps/mm with the extrusion multiplier, and for all intents and purposes the result is the same, so "many people" are totally right.
   
5. You can also Calibrate the PID. You probably won't have to do this for PLA out of the box, but may find you have some temperature swings with PETG or ABS temperatures. The Official Help Article also discusses this method and how to calibrate using the LCD if you prefer. I like to keep my Mk3 settings vanilla (I've never used an M500 directly, and avoid them when I can), so I like to get my PID values manually and set them in my start GCode instead, which also allows me to setup my slicer so each switching filaments automatically switches PID profiles. The bed can be calibrated as well, but again you probably won't need to do this unless you're experiencing temperature swings more than -/+ 5°. One or two degree dips/spikes is perfectly normal (though theoretically can be tuned out, requires proper enclosure for stable ambient temps, etc).
   
   There are tons of other accessories you can get ahead of time. None of these are necessary, but are small things you might end up using (or wanting to try :P), and should help get you started getting a wishlist together. Besides the ones mentioned in this comment (and the one that precedes it) already:
   
   

• Wire Snips beat the included pliers hands down. For $4 how are you not going to pick these up right now? The cutting edge on a pair of pliers sucks and it doesn't help that it's ****ing halfway down the length of the tool. I tried to get away with just using the included tools and simply gave up trying to use the included pliers to cut zip ties. If you have Prime, get a pair of these now. Get a pair even if you don't - they're worth the shipping cost too. Thank me later.
  
• 608 bearings (for prints such as TUSH),
  
• Loctite 222 (helps prevent screws from vibrating free, not necessary thanks to Nylocs used in Mk3),
  
• A humidity sensor (for filament dry box and checking ambient),
  
• An accurate scale (for calculating remaining filament),
  
• A small fan (enhanced print cooling when needed (not very necessary except for ultra extreme bridges), enhanced circulation in filament dry box),
  
• Small bags (for silica beads),
  
• PTFE tube and matching Bowden Couplers (for something like Spannerhands),
  
• Lubit-8 (for the LMU88 bearings),
  
• SuperLube (Silicone Grease w/ PTFE for Bondtech Extruder gear maintenance),
  
• Canola Oil (for lubricating/cleaning filament and seasoning the nozzle/hotend (not necessary with modern hotends)),
  
• Small Brass Brush (also for Bondtech Extruder gear maintenance),
  
• Nozzle Reams (for the extremely rare jam, because you're doing your Atomic Pulls, right?),
  
• Extra Nozzles (no need for the kit, just an example. Hardened nozzles (black) are a good idea for composites, last longer than Brass, regardless of filament used. Prusa Mk3 comes with 0.4mm nozzle preinstalled, but you can easily swap the nozzle),
  
• E3D Hotend Sock (helps lock in heat for (theoretically?) lower current usage and more stable temperatures, also helps keep plastic off the heat block in case of print failure),
  
• Magigoo (or other adhesion aids) (for certain exotic filaments, otherwise not necessary with Mk3),
  
• Tempered Glass or Borosilicate printbeds (for certain exotic filaments),
  
• And of course, Isopropyl Alcohol (70% or better, preferably 91% or better) and Acetone, just to name a few...
  
  Edit: Upon rereading my comment I realized I have a problem.. I own every product I just listed..
  
  ^^Except ^^for ^^the ^^nozzles ^^kit ^^so ^^it's ^^not ^^that ^^big ^^of ^^a ^^problem, ^^right?... ^^Right?!

I love the suggestions for a shower stool. I didn't know those existed, either, and with a small space, they look like a total game changer!

Here are some everyday bath items that, in addition to the stool, can help you conserve energy and stay safe throughout your shower routine. You probably have most or all of these items, but I figured I'd list them just in case. (Links go to whatever turned up on Amazon and looked reasonable; I haven't tried them out myself or researched them.)

Handheld showerhead: It helps a ton with minimizing movement (and also not getting the dreaded blast of cold water when you switch from the tap to the shower which is no small potatoes).

Back scrubber: Wet it down, rub a little soap on it, and bam! You have an energy-conserving way to scrub hard-to-reach places and a back scratcher! (Also available with those mesh-puff things instead of a brush if you want to be gentler on your skin.)

Suction cup hooks: Hang your long-handled scrubber, your washcloths, whatever you want.

Washcloths with loops: Keep them at arm-level on your suction cup hooks and you're ready to go. If you don't want to buy new washcloths, you could buy some fabric remnants or foldover elastic for cheap at a big-box craft store and make loops for your existing washcloths instead.

Shower basket with suction cups: I like these better than those shower caddies you hang over the shower head because you don't get pelted in the face with water when you're reaching for things and you can place these within easy reach.

Suction cup soap dish: Again, you can put this at whatever height you want and never have to worry about having to lean over to reach for soap again.

Wall-mounted dispenser: If you're not into bar soap or bottles, you can use this guy to hold body wash, shampoo, and conditioner instead. (I don't know how much of a hassle they are to refill, though.)

Reacher: The classic! If you've dropped your washcloth, you don't have to stress your body by bending to pick it up. Just make sure you get a length that'll work for you in your shower or that thing'll turn into more hazard than help.

Lastly, I gotta ask if you'd consider having grab bars installed for safety. If you have difficulty going from sitting to standing, it sounds like using a shower stool would be helpful, but might come with its own issues, and I want you to be safe. There are some suction cup grab bars out there, but man, I don't trust those things. A little bit of soap scum or something builds up near one of the suction cups and it's Bad News Bears.

If you have an occupational therapist, this would be a perfect thing to discuss with them! Seriously, they live for that kind of thing. :)

I don't know if they would be needs because if it's something I need, I end up buying it for myself. These are things that would greatly improve the quality of my life, but I have a hard time justifying to myself that I deserve nice things:

• The Fred and Friends Dish Wish Scrub Brush - I live with housemates who hardly ever do dishes. I don't want to become the person who does all the dishes (even though I don't hate doing dishes). With this brush, though, I'd be much happier doing them!
  
  
• The Datexx The Miracle Cube Timer - Timers help me keep myself on task -- and something like this that would keep me productive (which is actually one of the things that help ease my depression).
  
  
• The Accell D080B-007K-R PowerSquid Outlet Multiplier - I live in a converted living room, so we don't have a lot of outlets. :(
  
  

Try this.

I watched a ton of videos before I got this and saw the same problem you pointed out with bristle brushes. Your always gonna leave abrasions when you use them.

The velvet on this one can push crap in to the grooves but if you’re careful, you use some cleaning solution, you clean your needle and you clean any vinyl before putting it on the table I’ve not had problems.

If I had any significant spare cash free every month I’d honestly buy a really nice vinyl cleaner and use this before playing my stuff but realistically they’re just too expensive for where I’m at now.

Mothers 155900 Packages 155901 Carpet and Upholstery Brush https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001GJ3E5C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.Q1ADb8HWB1FQ

This was one of the first brushes I bought probably 5 years ago when I started and still one of my favorites to date. Something with a handle may be more comfortable with you but I can work with either.

Magic erasers will help pull up dirt and stubborn stains on leather and vinyl/plastic. Just be gentle when using it.

For leather I just soak a microfiber in water and wring it out really good. Then I squirt some leather conditioner on the towel and massage it in the towel so you don’t get conditioner in the cracks of seats. May need to re damp towel and definitely add a few more squirts of conditioner as you go. Let sit for a few minutes depending on temp and buff with a dry microfiber towel. If you get conditioner in a crack just use that dry towel to rub it out! Also I use leather conditioner on all my door panels, any kind of plastic, inside cup holders, etc. pretty much try to hit anything that isn’t fabric.

Also the more you massage the conditioner in the seat the better chance you have at removing tough stains/built up grime.

Goodluck and hope this helped!!

Since everyone caught the leaded vs non-leaded error I won't even mention it.
However, I'm just gonna nip one thing I did catch in my read-through right now:

> Fast drying WD40 can also be somewhat useful for cleaning PCB’s.

I really hope you're referring to WD's line of electrical contact cleaner here, and not plain ol' WD-40 lubricant. Should probably make that a bit more clear so newcomers don't assume you're referring to plain WD-40.
Do not ever put standard WD-40 on your PCBs or components, it is oil-based and can eat plastic and rubber components if left to sit.

To add in/on/around:

• Craft knife works for cutting traces wonderfully. However, my favorite scraping tool ever for exposing a trace for soldering is a decent fiberglass pen/scratch brush (like this one), does the job fast and clean, and generally easy cleanup. Just be gentle when scraping.
  
• Q-Tips are cheap and do the job well, but if you want to be 100% clean go for some lint-free swabs and wipes when you clean up your PCB and joints.
  
  Fantastic little batch of starter info here, though it could use some formatting work. Mods, pls sticky/pin this.

Current tools in the box

From Amazon:

• Pair of clear plastic dome trays
  
• Silicone Repair Mat
  
• Watch Press and Pry Tools
  
• Caseback and Movement Holder
  
• Hand Press and Hand Removal Tweezers (i actually took the post out of the press, and used the piston by itself. the press does not move straight up and down, so I found it easier to hand hold the piston and guide the press myself slowly.
  
  • I have these hand press tools on order, and should hopefully have them in the next week.
    
• Rodico
  
• General Watch tool Kit
  
  ​
  
  Also, this is the walkthrough video I used for reference when changing the movement.
  
  ​
  
  Happy Modding!

I've never been gifted, so technically everything has been ignored, BUT this would be a great addition to my kitchen arsenal!

Show this gift some love!

Thanks for the contest!

The shirts are the cheapest part to dry clean and you can even get away with touching up the ironing on your own is you were an undershirt or don't get them too sweaty.

If you get a good suit brush https://www.amazon.com/Kent-Handcrafted-Clothes-Brush-Cc2/dp/B003B3YESC/ref=sr_1_2_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1539023097&sr=8-2&keywords=suit+brush&dpID=41vE44hqU4L&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch (is the one I use), you can save a lot of dry cleaning on your pants and suit jackets. I use it a lot and it's really better for the fabric long term (compared to dry cleaning regularly). Something to think about, and good luck with the new job!

Considering the amount of corrosion visible and that it has no specific marker's mark I think if it were put up for auction on Ebay then you would be lucky to get $50 USD. If it was completely cleaned up then the price would probably double.

If you feel confident that you could do it without damaging the blade or scales then I would recommend trying to remove the corrosion from the blade. You could use steel wool and a wire bristle brush to clean off the corrosion. Then oil the blade with WD-40 or mineral oil to prevent any further corrosion. This will at least help preserve it for future generations of your family. Hopefully it is something they will keep and treasure for many decades!

$0-5: these cute cat toys because all our kitties need lovings too.

$5-10: This funny dish scrubber because we all deserve to feel like a princess or fairy while making magic in the kitchen such as getting rid of grease gunk.

$10-20: This Sheldon Cooper shirt because nerdy humor is sexy.

$20-50: Adopt a Sloth because the money goes to donating towards the animal and you get to ADOPT A SLOTH..do I really need to explain why thats so awesome?!

No just lock stitching, but those are being cuffed twice so you won't see the hem and I don't think it needed to be chain stitched since those hems weren't anything special I think. None of them offer chain stitching I can find here in Houston yet.

The tailor who said dry cleaning is better is right next door to a Dry cleaner... so Idk... about her. Her reviews were good on google, but I never really used a tailor before.

I am fine with wrinkles. Though I do want to learn how to iron or steam my clothes. I never ironed before. I thought about buying a steamer but I am not sure which one I should buy or how much they cost and finding out when they go on sale or is a good time to buy. Same with buying a depiller and a garment brush. I was looking at something like this to brush my clothes. Though I don't honestly see the difference between a 100% horse or boar hair brush vs a cheaper 100% horse or boar hair brush that is used to shoes or beard for much cheaper. Just not as many bristles on some

I have an 2009 A4 with 115K miles on it.

I have been using Lexol's two-part cleaner and conditioner with microfiber cloths for years with, what I thought was, good results. I decided to do a 50/50 test on the lower portion of the driver's seat.

I am floored by how much cleaner the seat looks. I do believe that this is going to be my method from now on, or at least until I get my hands on a steamer.

My question for everyone is what brushes do you use?

I purchased this on from Amazon and while it works well, it is small and my hand started to cramp after doing just this test side. I did do three passes if that matters. I'd like to find something two or three times as wide.

Thanks.

What hasn't been mentioned yet: copper cloth. Personally I don't have one (yet) but I've only read good things and will definitely get one in the near future. https://www.amazon.com/Redecker-Cleaning-Non-Abrasive-Scrubber-Washable/dp/B007VXF662/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=copper+cloth&qid=1566680461&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Also dish brushes, as have already been recommended. Personally I don't like the ones with a long handle - but the small ones without a handle are great and you can basically use them just like you would use a sponge. https://www.amazon.com/REDECKER-Natural-Untreated-Beechwood-Heat-Resistant/dp/B00V3HW4SU/ref=pd_bxgy_201_img_2/137-2212606-3635363?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00V3HW4SU&pd_rd_r=af379e67-eeeb-471c-b570-e41ae3ef776a&pd_rd_w=ZC3cq&pd_rd_wg=nnCo4&pf_rd_p=a2006322-0bc0-4db9-a08e-d168c18ce6f0&pf_rd_r=79DGV85CNKGVX70KJV4R&psc=1&refRID=79DGV85CNKGVX70KJV4R

https://www.amazon.com/Ronson-ounce-Ronsonol-Lighter-Fuel/dp/B0017X1NGO

https://www.amazon.com/1000-Count-Double-Tipped-Cotton/dp/B079F9BYMJ

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XDK78GQ

​

Put some lighter fluid on the qtip, wet the pad and clean with some pressure what you can with the qtip. Use the other end to clean again but take also take the lighter fluid off. Get another qtip, wet the pad again. Take the straw cleaning brush and brush the pad / crevice with mostly not too much pressure (prefer the smallest one). Enjoy clean pads that don't stick (for some time (days-weeks-months)).

This isn't something I've tried, but I've been meaning to for similar reasons to you.... you could try attaching a scrubbing brush to a drill, or buying a special drill attachment like this!! https://www.amazon.com.au/Drillbrush-Scrub-Brush-Drill-Attachment/dp/B075F915WR (I didn't realise you could actually buy these, this is very exciting)

lol, i actually just saw his picture and read the title and thought to myself, what a great fucking idea... kind like the drill brush... http://www.amazon.com/Drill-Powered-Upholstery-Scrub-Brush/dp/B004R7LO98/ref=pd_sbs_hg_6 for cleaning your bathroom!

get some bristle pipe cleaners. soak your pipe completely submerged in rubbing alcohol or Heet anti-ice additve for gas tanks for a stronger alcohol. add a good amount of kosher salt, make it a slurry. shake it around in a ziplock bag and the resin will just fall out. use the bristle pipe cleaners, and if you go to home depot currently, you can buy a set of 4 angled picks that are awesome for cleaning. they're on sale at Home Depot right now for under $5.

add a set of bottle brushes and a few cans of keyboard cleaner, and you're set.

I have reusable straws and they're great. I recommend getting those tiny brushes that are used to clean baby bottles though.

Thanks. Should note I do my own Chimney sweeping using one of those "sooteaters" weed whacker type drill attachments you feed from the bottom up.. Works great.

Thus my question about what I should look for in my inspection.


this:
https://www.amazon.com/Gardus-RCH205-B-SootEater-Chimney-Cleaning/dp/B0010H5JXA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1550935155&sr=8-2&keywords=chimney+sweep+drill

https://www.amazon.com/Drillbrush-Piece-Scrub-Brush-Attachment/dp/B075F915WR/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_201_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Collect 'em all!

I have that kit. Works great. Get the strongest white vinegar you can and let that sit for a while and then go to town.

as people on this thread have said: high % iso alcohol and epsom salt is the classic combo. I would also recommend some long pipe cleaners like this or this and if you want to clear up foggy glass you should use white vinegar.

Search amazon for trinova leather brush. It’s a soft bristle brush that works great for delicate surfaces without the worry of taking too much off or leaving marks. Mothers carpet brush is way too stiff and leaves marks.

TriNova Leather Brush for cleaning upholstery, cleaner car interior, furniture, couch, sofa, boots, shoes and more. Premium quality https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MT6GD80/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_RYeKBbZXCVAHB

Get a set of these. They make cleaning stuff up super fast and easy.


https://www.amazon.com/Scrubbing-Attachment-Cleaning-Bathrooms-DrillStuff/dp/B0727NJZNV/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_201_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=4RHKY7XVG58BZF8CFZ1K

Wax is THE most important thing for your car. Waiting a year or two isn't a good idea because the sun will damage your paint by then. If you want you keep your car mint, get some wax on there and then focus on the interior.

My favorite over the counter wax is Meguiar's NXT 2.0.

A couple things with your list,

• I suggest getting these microfiber towels. 6 times the towels for 2 times the price.
  
  
• I suggest getting this brush. Its the same price as a hair brush but its way better at the task.
  
  
• Despite its name, the Meguiar's detailer is not a cleaner. Its great for getting dust of the dash but it can't clean anything. I tried it on 3 cars and it did not remove dirt. My favorite cleaner by far is Chemical Guys NonSENSE cleaner. You can dilute it 10:1 so that $12 bottle creates a gallon of product.
  
  Everything else trollster4 went over.

I got a couple from West Elm a few years ago and they've held up nicely. I clean them with a little brush like this from Amazon

I've recently used some contractors to do work around my house which I found off Angie's List and HomeAdvisor. I used coupon deals for all of the work I bought and I noticed that the contractors who did the work seemed to have smaller operations that favored small, maintenance work as opposed to be more larger whole operations.

For example, for the guys who cleaned my gutter it was basically the business owner who drove who his two guys to my house. They put up a long ladder and one guy went up with a hose and leaf blower and the other guy cleaned up anything the other guy sent down. It took about 30 minutes and they made $100 for that and did that all day long.

Another example is the chimney cleaner who simply used this device: Rotary Chimney Cleaning System and then used a soft wire brush to clean out my dryer duct. He spent 20 minutes and made $89 and likewise did this all day long.

Does anyone know if this kent brush would be safe to use with a wool suitsupply jacket?

This is the most expensive item I've bought so I wanna make sure it lasts.

Oh, as a chimney sweep, given that I'm fairly handy (do all but the most major car repairs myself, basic home plumbing, interior repair, appliance maintenance, builds PCs, ect.) would you recommend getting something like this and cleaning my chimneys myself? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0010H5JXA

Or not a good idea for some reasons I'm not aware of?

I really want to know how it takes one person 20 seconds, and you 3 minutes to scrub something.

I seemingly burn stuff and it has to soak for days, and then any SOS pads or I had this serious scrubber

Also; I food prep on Sunday’s. I make meals for the whole week for my family. After cleaning 13x9 casserole dishes, pots, pans, knives, mixing bowls, cutting boards, counters, floors..

By hand- since I don’t have a dish washer. Yeah the convenience is nice. Lazy? Debatable given the circumstances surrounding my cooking.

I brush my pup every 2-3 weeks. I used to do every week. He could use it every week. I sweep and clean the floors every week. With carpet, I cleaned weekly. For my coats and nicer clothes, I use a clothes brush. I bring it to gatherings with me because he'll shed on other people too. Honestly, it's just hopeless.

I recommend getting some of these. I find them to be very helpful accessory for all my vapes


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F8RX2FR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_h9bhDbS9PNBNK

because i'm lazy.

this and some dawn dish soap are all I use to wash.

When cooking I like to use something similar to this


It's probably all placebo but the spatula helps knock down the high spots a bit.

And do you really need an excuse to use power tools?

> I'm also wondering if a brass brush might be a handy thing to clean filament off any nozzle?

Those work fairly well - use one myself

I've been wanting to build my own watch for years, but there is lots of terminology, and always worried about getting the right pieces and knowing what the hell I was doing.

I finally got motivated enough to to make this when I saw: https://www.reddit.com/r/Watches/comments/87640n/build_i_assembled_a_watch_because_someone_told_me/

Thanks Scooter356.

Cost Breakdown

Parts

| Part | Cost | Link |
|---|---|---|
| Strap | £18.95 | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Gipsy-Stitched-Vintage-Style-Brown-Leather-Watch-Strap-18-19-20-or-22mm-AM1/152902576907?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=452661711715&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649 |
| Case | £23.75 | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fit-ETA-6497-6498-movement-parnis-44mm-Polished-316L-stainless-steel-watch-case/322157907423?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649 |
| Movement | £30.40 | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/17-Jewels-classic-6498-Mechanical-Hand-Winding-movement-fit-mens-watch-M14/322427983275?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649 |
| Dial | £16.00 | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/38-9mm-white-dial-blue-hands-fit-for-6498-Movement-watch-dial-with-hands-62A/322459621256?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649 |
| Total | £89.10 | |

Tools

| Part | Cost | Link |
|---|---|---|
| Rodico | £8.99 | https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B008YMGYBU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 |
| Casing Cushion | £4.20 | https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B017MQ07FW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 |
| Toolkit | £15.49 | https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B071P7B672/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 |
| Total | £28.68 | |

Total Cost

£117.78

I struggled putting on the second had, it is RIDICULOUSLY tiny, and took me about 45 minutes of trying.

Unfortunately I cut the winding stick thingy (mind=blank) a fraction too short and now, after winding it up twice, it no longer winds up; I think something must have come loose, so I will have to take it apart and see if I can replace that bit. Any suggestions as to it's name would be appreciated.

Over all, i'm very pleasantly surprised by the parts I got. I didn't realise that the strap would be quite as nice, and the glass (mineral) is very nice to look at with a nice magnification of the dial and a bluish tint when the light bounces off it.

I am bit disappointed that I didn't make it with a date function, I keep looking for the date that my previous Hugo Boss chronograph had, although I don't miss it's other features all that much.

My next watch, I will make for my wife. It wont be quite as large, but I haven't decided any more than that about it. I still need to pick her brains on what style she wants.

I used this brush

4in 4 Piece Soft, Medium and Stiff Power Scrubbing Brush Drill Attachment for Cleaning Showers, Tubs, Bathrooms, Tile, Grout, Carpet, Tires, Boats by DrillStuff https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0727NJZNV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_j8oPCbF4142VE

And also used this cleaner. It works so great and you’re supposed to dilute it 20-1 so a little goes a really long way.

Chemical Guys CWS_103_16 Fabric... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FJHTCEO?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

It was crazy easy, I just sprayed a bit of the cleaner. Let it sit for about 30 seconds and started using the drill brush and you can see the stuff come up immediately. I used a microfiber to clean up after the brushing and I was done. No steaming or extracting necessary.

Save yourself the worry and just buy something like this guy now. That's all you'll need to scrub the inside well

Here's the list of all the tools I got:

Tweezers- https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0028C9IMO?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Hand presser/lifter- https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0748HZTMH?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Case opener- https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0058EDAUA?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Clippers for cutting the stem- https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-End-Cutting-Pliers-Nippers-4-quot-Electrical-Wire-Cutter-Jewelry-Tool-Allied-/322393033884?txnId=2067048388011

Magnifyer (loupe)- https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000LDG2HQ?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Magnifyer holder- https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B079CBLTDG?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Case cushion- https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07GPH2M6X?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Silicone grease (for the o-ring)- https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0058ED3MA?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Rodico (for picking up dust)- https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008YMGYBU?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

You'll also need a set of jewelers screwdrivers and files, which I already had, and some nitrile gloves or finger cots so you dont get oil and dirt from your hands onto the movement. I've also seen other people recommend getting a movement holder to hold onto the movement while you attach the dial and hands.

I think they actually said a little while ago that you're not supposed to put anything in the dishwasher anymore. Only ISO Alcohol will do these days to not void the warrantee. That being said, get some thick baby bottle brushes from the store or here and put some 91-99% ISO on it and brush away. I did that for around 5 mins, and it looked and smelled brand new.

I also dump my water every day, rinse off everything, and spray my kitchen sink water sprayer down the tube every night before I go to bed. Everything dries disassembled, and is perfect for use the next day. I only have to clean with iso every 3 weeks or so.

I use a SootEater and a power drill to clean my chimney liners every year. That will send the accumulated creosote in the liner down into your stove. From that point, simply shovel the creosote/ash out and dispose. You will likely need to remove the top baffle inside the stove to get access to the stuff dropped down the liner.

Is this any good for cleaning records?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000MS5X9I/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3IJ2477Z2F9C0&coliid=I2QKH24JTCQ2PP

Cheers.

Amazon

Works great on carpet, leather, plastic. Just rinse it off after each use. I don't think you would ever need the yellow or red ones. Those might be way to stiff the white ones is perfect soft but hard enough. Maybe a second one for scrubbing tires... hmmmm

I used Mothers 155900 Carpet & Upholstery Brush https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B001GJ3E5C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_AmGrDbYEC6S4Z when I cleaned up my old car to sell it. Worked really well to break up salt stains/residue from a few years worth of Canadian winter road salt.

What about

https://www.amazon.co.uk/CLEAR-GROOVE-Advanced-Record-Cleaner/dp/B006DA4GUG/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1519823398&sr=8-9&keywords=Vinyl+cleaner

Or

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Acc-Sees-Velvet-Antistatic-Vinyl-Brush/dp/B000MS5X9I/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1519823398&sr=8-3&keywords=Vinyl+cleaner&dpID=41xdtpekdLL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch


Thanks 🙏

Found it on Amazon!
4in 4 Piece Soft, Medium and Stiff Power Scrubbing Brush Drill Attachment for Cleaning Showers, Tubs, Bathrooms, Tile, Grout, Carpet, Tires, Boats by DrillStuff https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0727NJZNV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_WDvCDb7G7J7A7

Oh damn, I hadn't seen the kits, thanks for pointing that out man! Would it be a good idea to pick up and extra set of hands before I start?

Also, would this set of tools be enough to get it built, or am I missing some stuff?

Cleaning Rodico

[Tool Kit](
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B075LM4332/ref=sspa_mw_detail_1?i)

Cushion

Bottle Bright plus something like this or this.

Better to use one of these

My dealerships kinda cheap actually so I think a drill with adjustable speed and these brushes would be better.

Looks like he's probably brushing with one of these.

A toothbrush with a smaller head or something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Hiware-Drinking-Straw-Brush-Kit/dp/B06XDK78GQ

[Tube brush](9.8 Inches Nylon Tube Brush Set, Nylon Bottle Cleaning Brush Set, 12 Pieces Variety Pack for Glasses Drinking Straws, Keyboards, Jewelry Cleaning, Antistatic Brushes, Pipe Cleaning Brushes (Set of 12) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F8RX2FR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vJKXDbR85G0PD) and plenty of isopropyl alcohol. I like q tips to get into the tighter spots too.

Pipe cleaners... There are all kinds on amazon.

Get a clothes brush. Make sure it's bristle (or horsehair), brass ones could be too aggressive for wool.

You can try doorbell wire at hardware store, if you can find 22-24 gauge that would be ideal. That’s what I used in the past, still works. The trick is scraping off the coating on the circuit board. For that I use a fiberglass scratch brush..with a little flux and some heat (not too much or you risk the trace lifting) and you can repair the circuit.
I have tried using a trace repair pen on a Nintendo DS and it worked, but didn’t work on the Xbox.

I'm not sure how well a lint roller would get into the engravings. I personally would try alternating toothbrush and compressed air until it's clean, then resume. Actually, I'd probably just use watchmaker's putty because I have weird things like that laying around the house, but toothbrush and air should be fine.

You can probably avoid getting more crud back in the engravings by lightly soaking a sponge with linseed oil and then just dabbing it on those areas.

I would use a Mothers carpet and upholstery brush. Just brush all the small debris into one spot and vacuum it up.

You can find it here: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001GJ3E5C/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687562&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B000E9QF06&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=16JCWGZEFAV6Z2WMPB0P

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06XDK78GQ/ref=psdcmw_10802561_t2_B076BB7DYS?th=1&psc=1 I think these are $5

My buddy who details cars as a side hustle, uses Simple Green diluted 1:1 and a squirt (roughly a tbsp) of Dawn dish soap in a spray bottle, a upholstery brush and some elbow grease.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MT6GD80/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Ultimate-Bottle-Brush-Cleaning-Shapes/dp/B0093A7QSW/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=cleaning+brush+kit&qid=1556899900&s=gateway&sr=8-3

I use this kit and ISO

Straw cleaners

i use a drill brush on a 18 volt drill
https://www.amazon.com/Scrubbing-Attachment-Cleaning-Bathrooms-DrillStuff/dp/B0727NJZNV/ref=sr_1_8_s_it?s=hpc&ie=UTF8&qid=1525503092&sr=1-8&keywords=drill+brush

get yourself some rodico https://www.amazon.com/Bergeon-Professional-Cleaning-Rodico/dp/B008YMGYBU/

If your vacuum is having trouble, also remember you can use something like Tuff Stuff and a carpet brush to break out some junk that usually doesn't come out with a vacuum sweep. It might turn out to be cheaper than a new vacuum. Though if you're just looking to buy a new vacuum, try out this AMA by a vacuum repair technician.

What are they made out of?

I'm guessing you'll need to get a clothing brush to loosen up dirt from them.

Can I bug you for your opinion on the chimney cleaners that you hook to a drill? Amazon link if you don't know what I'm talking about. I tried it and got nothing out, but I also only have fires a handful of times a year and there was no obvious buildup in the lower part that I could see. Masonry chimney btw.