Reddit mentions: The best leathercraft supplies

I just posted another comment so you'd see a notification.


Here's the list! Hope it's not too long. All the tools listed are the ones I bought. If I have other suggestions, I've listed them as well. I've also listed details on the functions of the tools, and why they're superior to some other alternatives. If you look for the same amount of tools in one of those "kits," they would set you back roughly 200-400, depending on where you bought it from. The tools in these kits are usually quite inferiorly made as well. This list is a result of about a week long search and perusal. Tandy is a well known and easily accessible aggregation of tools, but they're overpriced for what they do and their quality is mediocre at best.

• Stitching Chisel Set Amazon - $19 - Used for even stitching holes. An alternative to this tool would be something called an overstitch wheel, but from what I've read, the consensus seems to be that pricking irons are better and more reliable for straight lines. Also, overstitch wheels don't pierce the leather all the way, and only mark the holes, meaning that you have to pierce each hole individually with an awl after you're done. Double the work.
  
  
• Stitching Groover & Edge Trimmer Amazon - $22 - This tool combines three tools into one. The edge groover, edge trimmer, and fold liner. It's not amazing quality admittedly, but it gets the job done well, and for the price I really can't complain. The edge groover cuts out a thin channel which sets the thread in deeper in the leather. Edge trimmer smooths the sharp corners, and the fold liner makes a line if you want to fold the leather somewhere.
  
  
• Cutting Mat Amazon - $10 - I'd say absolutely necessary for anything leather related. This one is really cheap, works great. I have the 18x12 inch model, and the price is for that one as well.
  
  
• Hole Punch Set Amazon - $9 - I'd say this one is more on the optional side. Mostly needed if you're interested in putting in hardware like rivets or snaps. Also good however for oblong rounded holes, like I showed in my project.
  
  
• Mallet Amazon - $8 - Needed for all sorts of things. A normal metal hammer won't work because it won't absorb any force at all and all energy will be transferred to the leather, potentially damaging it. A rubber mallet allows for a softer hit.
  
  
  
• Diamond Stitching Awl Ebay - $9 - While technically not necessary if you're using a stitching chisel, if the leather you're working with is extremely thick, it might help to have it. You should get one anyway though. You'll inevitable end up using it. Also, make sure to get a "Diamond" pointed one. Normal awls with round points just poke a hole in that doesn't close back up. Diamond points are wide and thin, and this allows the leather to close back up on the thread after it has been sewed up. C.S. Osborne is also American made.
  
  
• Skiving Knife Ebay - $9 - Needed for thinning leather when folding, or simply trimming thick leather. There are several different styles, and they all definitely require a bit of finesse to be used properly, but are immensely rewarding once learned. Also a C.S. Osborne.
  
  
• Bone Folder Ebay - $7 - One of the tools you can improvise for. It's needed to crease corners when folding to flatten them out. Also can be used to burnish. The cocobolo burnisher that I made ended up working just as well as this for folding as well. Any smooth, rounded/flat long object will work well for this. This one is also a C.S. Osborne.
  
  
• Harness Needles Ebay - $7 - Size 2 is what I got, and it fits with 0.8 thread, also what I used. These needles are handy because the tips are somewhat rounded, which means no pricked fingers. Comes in a pack of 25, and the first two that I pulled out are still going strong, so they're quite sturdy.
  
  
• Ritza "Tiger" Thread Ebay - $7 for 25m - Obviously endless varietes of alternatives here. However, in my research it seemed to be the consensus that this was the superior thread. It comes already waxed, and it's extremely durable. The 0.8mm size fits the size 2 needle, and both are great for small projects.
  
  
• Barge Cement Ebay - $4 or $23 - Barge cement is a well known glue for leatherworkers, and works well. It's used to hold edges together to make sewing easier, as well as holding folds down. The thing is, they released a new formula, (the $4 one) that is "eco-friendly" and is missing some key chemicals. This is the one I got. It also kinda sucks at holding leather together. The original formula, (the $23 one), comes in a quart size at the smallest, but from what I heard this one is rock solid and the origin of their reputation. If you're planning on doing many projects I'd just say to invest in the quart.
  
  
• Stitching Pony This is what it looks like - I didn't put a link to a product for this one because all the ones I have seen are ridiculously overpriced. I made my own out of some more scrap hardwood I had laying around, (you can barely see the tip of it in the sewing picture here and it works flawlessly. It's used to hold the leather together so you can saddle stitch it, which requires both hands. Besides the wood, it cost me about $3 in hardware to make my own. You can easily whip one up with some 2x4s and a long bolt, knob, and some screws, for a grand total of probably $5 from home depot. You may need a table or miter saw, or equivalent.
  
  *Some of the eBay listings might have ended, but I'm sure you'll be able to find identical tools for the equivalent price or even cheaper.
  
  For me the tools came out to a grand total of roughly $115. You can give or take $20 if you want to improvise your own tools, or switch them out. I'd say this setup works just fine for mid to smaller projects like what I made, or wallets, etc.
  
  As for the leather, Springfield Leather sells some quality leather by the square foot, which is nice for first timers, as most tanneries only sell by the side, like what I had, which usually average around 21-28 square feet. Pretty big investment. Maverick Leather Company sells quality leathers as well as Horween "Seconds", like what I got for a very nice discount. These seconds are full sides with minor defects in the leather, but unless you're making huge bags it's easy to cut around the brand marks/scars etc, and your leather will look spotless. I got a full side of Horween Essex for roughly $130, and I'm guessing if I bought the same straight for Horween it would have run me in the ballpark of $300 or so. Since my laptop case only used about 7-8% of my leather, I used about $10 worth of leather. Quite a bargain if you ask me. If you're looking to do many projects like I am, I'd advise you to invest in a nice Horween side. Can't beat it for value and price.
  
  All told, the laptop case itself cost about $11-12 worth of materials** (leather, fabric, thread, glue) and took the better part of 2 days to complete. Granted, much of that time was spent just sitting and thinking as most of it was improvisation, as you can see by my horrible sketch.
  
  As far as my "learning" went, it was literally just Google. Some youtube videos help, and I glanced through some forums, but overall, as I've often found in woodworking too, nothing beats hand-on experience.
  
  Well, hope this helped you guys out and answered some questions. I know I definitely would have appreciated a specialized list like this when I was starting out.
  

Here's my starting out basics list:

Must have:

A cutting mat - I have this Cutting Mat which has both standard and metric measurements, very handy for watch straps which are in mm

Ruler - Something like this you probably want cork-backed metal for non-slip and to protect the leather surface, size is up to you

Cutting Tool - I recommend both a very sharp knife like a Stanley utility knife which you probably already own, plus a Rotary Cutter - way more useful than you realize. This is a deep rabbit hole, there are a huge selection of fantastic cutting tools out there, I would say if you get serious this should be an early upgrade but for getting started, a rotary + detail knife is a good start

Wing Divider - Marking patterns, stitch lines, a million other uses, something like this

Fastening - if you're stitching, you need waxed thread and blunt tip needles, as well as an awl (this is one tool that is not worth cheaping out on, get a Barry King and be done with it) and a set of pricking irons, generally a 6-prong (or so) for long straight runs, and a 2-prong for corners. I'm not recommending a specific brand here because the price range is large, and I think there are a lot of newer players making good quality products. I started with Seiwa chisels and they served me well until I upgraded to Muxi Irons, will probably go KS blade punch at some point.

Alternately you can use rivets and a rivet setter (make sure the sizes match); either way you'll want contact cement as well, barge or weldwood are good choices from any hardware store

Helpful items:

Wax paper - you can use it to get nice straight lines with your contact cement

Stitching Pony - I did without one for the first few months but it's a lifesaver, this would be an early priority if you're stitching things

Thread nippers - cheap and convenient These

Skife/Skiver/Skiving knife - Used to thin the edges of pieces and reduce bulk/combine more seamlessly This or This

Isopropyl alcohol - used for cleaning surfaces and diluting dye, if you choose to dye your pieces

Other stuff:

Edges - Edge finishing is whole art in itself, there are different techniques depending on preference and the type of leather used, and accordingly will require different tools. If you're going for the rustic look, you can leave your edges unfinished. Where I live in Portland, lots of people actually prefer that look, but to each their own. Veg tan is most often finished by burnishing the edges, with involves sanding until completely smooth, then wetting with water or gum tragacanth, and rubbing briskly with something smooth, generally a wood burnisher, followed by some wax and another burnish with something like canvas to seal the edge. Chrome tanned leather is generally finished with edge paint or by rolling the edge over so there is no exposed edge.

Dying - If you're using fiebings, MAKE SURE you get the "professional oil dye" line, the standard line bleeds color like crazy. It's an alcohol-based dye so you can dilute with isopropyl/rubbing alc and you can also combine colors without issue to create your own. Two coats gives a nice deep color, and once it's dry buff it with a dry cotton rag to get off any excess. I use pieces of 2" foam to apply it, those tiny daubers don't do much for larger pieces. Also get some nitrile gloves, you'll thank me later.

Beyond that, you start getting into lots and lots of specialty tools, which you'll be able to identify when you get there for specific application. But hopefully this helps and gives you a basic rundown.

At the very least, most of the research I've done recommends using an awl for the holes, which would probably speed it up quite a bit and be pretty inexpensive. Some people prefer a stitching wheel, which marks out the holes, but still requires an awl to punch through. The irons are great, though; I just put the first tine in the last holes that I punched, and it lines up perfectly.

Backstiching is pretty simple- after you've finished your stitching, do two or three stitches coming back from the way you came. It doesn't require any knots that stick out, and it holds everything in place nicely. Just make sure that you pull the thread tight so that it doesn't stand much prouder than the rest of the stitches. I've read that you can cut a slight groove under the stitches that you want to backstitch to help to keep it down, although i never remember to do so.

I haven't worked with kevlar thread, so I don't know how it compares to waxed. However, the wax is nice, as it (1) is fairly slick, so it slides through the holes easily, and (2) helps to resist stains.

As someone else mentioned, /r/leathercraft is a treasure trove of information, so if you want to go in deeper, they're a great resource! Be warned that it is a time vampire, though- there are hundreds of techniques to try that yield a huge variety of results, so I've spent hours trying out different methods to see what works best for me.

Sling is just thick cotton grosgrain ribbon, QD Attatchments can be found all over the place, and so can the strap adjustment buckle, all for super cheap.

>The stitching on the strap is a little difficult, but other than that...

Nah man, not at all. The real item obviously uses a machine, however you can achieve similar results with some scrap leather (Buy "Vegetable Tanned" leather for crafting, takes dye well and is very strong, you may even find a "Belt Blank" kit already cut into a nice neat strap) and some "leather lacing chisels" also known as Pricking Irons. Simply lay out where you want your stitch-box, double your leather over, line up the fork, smack it with a hammer (into a wooden backstop), and there you have it, nice evenly spaced stitchable holes. From there, you just dye the leather however you prefer (Leather Dye works great, but in a pinch, wood stain works fine and double-brewed coffee can work too), finish the edge with a little bees wax and an edge slicker and hand sew it together with some Waxed Thread and some robust Leathercraft Needles. (I might even lay down a layer of contact adhesive between the leather-strap-leather sandwich for additional hold while sewing). Just take your time and be patient with layout and cutting and it would make for a great afternoon project. For a tutorial on stitching leather neatly, check this out and this edge slicking tutorial. Bonus; you can dye the leather and buy whatever color grosgrain and hardware you want to match or contrast to your heart's content.

I think I've helped enough beginners with that little thing on the side bar....

But whatever, I'll play this game and set him up for immediate success and long term success for when he outgrows the old shitty leather belt strop.

Smiths Coarse and Fine 4" diamond stone for 14 bucks- I will personally attest to the quality of this thing, while the fine side is about 750 grit, it does a fantastic job. I own and use this piece of kit daily, works just fine.

Or this Norton Crystalon or whatever coarse and fine stone for as cheap as 10 bucks-I've used this one too to very good effect.

Green buffing paste 3 bucks-Chromium oxide buffing paste, I use the shit sometimes on my buffing wheels and once upon a time on strops. It works fine.

Paddle strop for 10 bucks-Should work just fine, and it's made to be a strop, the leather is tanned to be a strop, and it'll be better for the dude to learn on equipment appropriate for the task, as that's what it was manufactured for and not ghetto rigged.

Couldnt resist the sns sale on this pair for about $130. and i knew id be blacking out that boost before i bought. (sorry dont see it available any longer, but its on goat and stockx for 120-160ish depending on size.) i wanted to try the full angelus method since heskicks said it lasted on youtube, and it took me 3 days on and off this weekend.

full photo album progress here with comparison pix in different steps of the method and against "OEM" black adidas boost https://imgur.com/a/5RE2d

STEPS

Day 1 – deglaze and dye. Deglazed before dinner, painted dye layer 1, wait 10 mins then dye layer 2. Let dry overnight.

Day 2 – Dye reducer. Feelgoodkicks on youtube said this was important to eliminate cracking and that purpleish sharpie-like tint, so I tried it. Make sure to very lightly roll a Q-tip over your dye work, otherwise else you can completely remove all your work. Later that day I painted with the flat black paint. Waited 10 mins then did a 2nd layer.

Day 3 – Acrylic Paint. Wait 10 mins and do a 2nd layer. Still looked too glossy to me, so I masked the upper and sprayed with krylon later that day. And a 2nd layer a few mins after as the instructions state to get my finished product. Also added alternate laces and gunmetal grey aglets. Didnt end up using the mink oil since Im worried the boost will gloss up, but I still might try some later.


OVERALL TIPS

With any painting, take your time and do LIGHT layers to prevent chipping/cracking as much as possible.

I didnt mask the upper when painting since i went slowly, but paint brushes are actually easier to use very close to the primeknit than the sharpies were. I normally painted that upper edge first, then used a larger brush to paint the main part of the boost.

Krylon spray was a must. Album has a comparison photo with just angelus finish and its super glossy compared to the krylon finish. Using krylon finish alone, however, the paint rubbed off the boost whenever i touched it. so gotta do both

PREVIOUS POST (sharpie method)

https://www.reddit.com/r/Sneakers/comments/7thl9p/iniki_boost_blackout_oil_based_sharpie_matte/

Since the previous sharpie method rubbed off a bit on my fingers, I retouched with the anglus acrylic finish and then krylon again to get it more matte. Seemed to do the job.

I think for the sharpie method id have to add deglazer and angelus finish. so a total of 4 purchases would be good (deglazer, sharpie, angelus acrylic finish, krylon matte finish)



PRODUCT LINKS

Angelus Leather Preparer & Deglazer 4 Oz - $6.60
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EU322DQ

Angelus Brand Leather Dye W/applicator - 3 Oz ''Jet Black'' - $6.75
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016QV7XIS

Angelus Acrylic 4 Ounce Paint (Flat Black) - $8.49
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MPXF6XG

Angelus Brand Acrylic Leather Paint Matte Finisher No. 620 - 4oz - $7.59
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B5W4LX4

Krylon Matte Finish - $3.47
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005ENZ8CS

Heartybay Nylon Paint Brush Set - $5.98
https://www.amazon.com/Heartybay-10Pieces-Round-Pointed-Nylon/dp/B00V4EG6D6

The cheap route of producing a wallet you'll be happy with:
Sharp knife(exact or utility work) like $5-$10 if you don't have one

Diamond Chisels- $18 3mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006OVYU5K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_jo-PBb7M287N4
There are cheaper ones but I've used these so its what I can recommend. You could just use a cheap Awl to punch holes but it won't look nearly as nice since it's your first project. If you go the awl route then make sure you get a small one

Thread- $7 Ritza 25 Tiger thread .06mm at Rocky Mountain Leather Supply. You can cheap thread but it is harder to work with and doesn't look as nice imo.

Needles- Use the smallest needles you have that will fit the thread, if you don't have any needles then get John James Saddlers Harness Needles Size 4, $7.50 at Rocky Mountain Leather Supply

Contact Cement- Dap weldwood like $6 for a pint on amazon as an add-on item.


Those items will let you make a decent product. You still may want something to clean up edges. If its veg tan you might want an edge beveler and you can use a piece of canvas or jeans to burnish. If it's chrome tanned then you'll want edge kote($8) or something similar. Or you can just leave it as is if you like that look since it's your wallet.

It's addicting, isn't it? Also great to get a whole closet full of personalized gear at a fraction of the cost!

Some suggestions: When dealing with straps and O-rings, you can use your oblong punch on the top and bottom sides of the strap, so that the part touching the ring is smaller. It gives the strap a more uniform fit and maintains the shape of the ring. I'm kinda bad at describing it, so here's a picture instead.

Also, I can't tell from the photos if you've already learned this, but a beveler and slicker will give your edges a nice, finished look.

Very nice work though! You should try selling some on etsy! It's always nice to have more kinky crafters, and the extra income could buy you even more leather to make more stuff with (it's a vicious cycle). And you should definitely head over to /r/bdsmdiy sometime, lots of very talented people over there to draw inspiration from.

Looks pretty good. Always come in at least 3/16 of an inch from edge for stitching. Get yourself a stitching groover too. It cuts a groove in the leather both to help heep stitches straight, and so your thread doesn't sit proud if the leather. Especially for an item that will be in and out of your pocket. Get a set of diamond stitching chisels too to help you with spacing, and clean up your stitches. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014549SNG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_1.CJDb1VV85PN
Other than that. I would personally do this with a thicker veg tan leather, obviously you have what you have. But thicker veg tan allows you to better finish the edges of the leather and use an edge coat to both make it pop, and to protect the edge of the leather which is what will surely start to wear first on this item. You dun good, though, just need to practice!

Nice job on the first try with some veg tan. You did a nice job on everything. One little suggestion that would improve the overall look on the edges would be to do some burnishing using a wood slicker like this and either gum tragacanth or tokonole as a burnishing agent. These burnishing agents really help matte down the fibers and give a nice and polished edge look. After the burnishing you can still add wax like you mentioned in the post. I'm sure your daughter will love it!

I don't have a direct answer, but I would say that if you plan to stick with this hobby, I would suggest the cheaper option. Odds are that you are going to want to upgrade from either one. Diamond chisels aren't the greatest if you intend to go through anything above 8oz total. And they definitely leave a less appealing hole. Don't get me wrong, they work and get the job done for me most of the time.

I've got some Aiskaer diamond chisels. I am glad that I bought them (as the alternatives to what I want now would have prevented me from even trying the hobby) but I totally plan on replacing them if I can sell enough items at cost to justify not losing money on leather. The point being, I wouldn't suggest spending a lot of money there unless you truly think you will be satisfied with them.

I live in South Carolina and I love the rolling thunderstorms we have. The hard intense rain with the low rumbly thunder is really soothing to me and the best weather to take a nap in ever.

Don't like the heat though, not one bit.

These craft spikes would be cool, they are under $8 with free shipping (no prime needed either). They are on my "Art Stuffs" list

Thanks for the contest and welcome to RAoA! :)

amazing work, would love to see the final full pic.
I feel like the build may have been easier if you used pricking irons rather than a hand sewing punch, it helps to keep even spacing and you can make a bunch of holes in one go. https://smile.amazon.com/CrazyEve-Leathercraft-Leather-Stitching-Perforate/dp/B00T17OULI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468779215&sr=8-1&keywords=pricking+iron

again, great work

A strop can get you an even keener edge. A steel helps to align a rolled edge which occurs with knife use.

This seems like a pretty good strop. You'll also need a fine abrasive compound such as a paste, wax, or emulsion to help the stropping process. The recommended green block compound looks pretty good. I havent used it myself, since just about anything will work. I personally use red and green razor strop pastes and they get me to a nice mirror finish.

Here’s my out-of-the box suggestion: If you can find the style of shoe you like in a light or neutral color, then you can paint the shoe with Angelus brand leather paint in metallic silver. I have done this several times when I have loved a shoe but couldn’t find the right color, with great results. Tape the soles and parts you don’t want painted with frog brand painters tape. Painting is in three steps: apply finisher and deglazer and let dry, apply paint and let dry, then apply finisher and let dry. Hopefully you can find the right color shoes, but I wanted to put this option out there just in case. If you decide to do this, message me and I will be happy to send detailed instructions.

https://www.amazon.com/Angelus-Leather-Preparer-Deglazer-Oz/dp/B00EU322DQ?crid=28ONTX97BK2L&keywords=angelus+leather+preparer+and+deglazer&qid=1540669671&sprefix=Angelus+%2Caps%2C174&sr=8-1&ref=sr_1_1

https://www.amazon.com/Angelus-Acrylic-Leather-Paint-1oz-Silver/dp/B00HRJPVS8?crid=275059PK4ATA&keywords=angelus+metallic+silver&qid=1540669816&sprefix=angelus+metallic+%2Caps%2C150&sr=8-1&ref=sr_1_1


https://www.amazon.com/Angelus-Brand-Acrylic-Leather-Finisher/dp/B00B5W4LX4?crid=28ONTX97BK2L&keywords=angelus+leather+preparer+and+deglazer&qid=1540669751&sprefix=Angelus+%2Caps%2C174&sr=8-3&ref=sr_1_3

Brushes
https://www.amazon.com/Angelus-Paint-Angular-Artist-Acrylic/dp/B072LRHFTM?keywords=angelus+brushes&qid=1540669936&sr=8-2&ref=sr_1_2

I bought a stencil tool similar to this one to trace the design, but you could probably use anything with a smooth round tip. A ball point pen could work, as long as you don't draw directly on the leather with it.

I also have a swivel knife, but the blade was too big for these thin lines, so I used an exacto knife. Any utility knife should work just fine for cutting in the pattern you trace.

For the stitching I have a set of lacing punches

Another tool I used was a border tool

Modeling tools like these

And finally I used stamps like these

Many of these tools aren't necessary. I made another project with nothing but an exacto knife and the stamps for the background, which are the only tools I consider 100% neccesary. You can't get around having the proper stamps for the background. Having these other tools does make it a little easier though.

Oh, and contact cement. I got all my tools from Tandy Leather, which has a few stores on the west coast (not sure if its a national chain) and Amazon. Contact cement from Home Depot. Leather from Tandy and Hobby Lobby. Tandy has scraps you can buy for pretty cheap, hobby lobby sells the same scraps for $10 more with way less variety.

One of my older comments about somem tools here: some links might be dead but you can search for a similar listing online

Chisels: Aiskaer White Steel 3mm 1/2/4/6 Prong DIY Diamond Lacing Stitching Chisel Set Leather Craft Kits(3mm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014549STU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_CRaSBbK7CG7MJ

Burnisher: YazyCraft Multi-Size Wood Slicker Leather Leathercraft Solid Wood Round Burnishing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IZAV998/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_aSaSBbMVYTCE1

Exacto knife: X-ACTO #1 Knife, Z Series With Safety Cap https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005KRSWM6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_PSaSBbF4PTFBC

Edger: Kinee 7 in 1 Pro Stitching Groover and Creasing Edge Beveler,DIY Leathercraft Sets,sew & Crease Leather,Wood & Steel Hand Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073F6WCBT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_GTaSBbESQHWPV

Glue:Fiebing's Leathercraft Cement, 4 oz - High Strength Bond for Leather Projects and More - Non-toxic https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003W0GFTU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-TaSBbWHMVA13

Thread: Rugjut 8 Roll 8 Colors 150D Leather Sewing Waxed Thread Cords,0.8mm,Each of 33 Yards https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BN8JMQ1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_aVaSBbM0KJ3E7

Total: my math says around 35 +-3$ which is not bad considering you will definitely need these tools. And needles of course which can be which ever as long as they are dull and not too sharp pointed. I use John James needles in the smallest size but they have many sizes for larger projects as well!

I'm a big fan of Rocado's Whisky Shell. I've been using it for a few watch straps and wallets myself lately. The boots look great, but I'd really like to see a more dressed edge at the top of the boot. Shell Cordovan burnishes so nicely and so easily that it seems like a waste to leave it unfinished like that. If you're feeling up to it, order some Gum Tragacanth and burnish that edge yourself! Apply it all along the raw edge and then rub it with a piece of cloth until its smooth and polished. If you decide to give it a try, let me know if you need more help!

This is what that exact leather looks like after I gave it a quick burnish.

Thanks for the tip!

Nobody seems to sell ones with 5 mm prong pitch, but I found them with 4 mm prong pitch.

http://www.amazon.com/CrazyEve-Leathercraft-Diamond-Stitching-Perforate/dp/B00T17OULI/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449624835&sr=8-1-fkmr1&keywords=diamond+chisel+prong+pitch+5mm

Better?

Also, i'm looking into ordering this leather. 4 oz thickness seems perfect for wallets, and its sort of like the natural veg tan people recommend, but horween and cheap ($5 per square foot, about $100 for a 20 sqft hide).

http://www.maverickleathercompany.com/horween/horween-seconds/tumbled-natural-essex-finished-flesh/

This set has the same specs (2 mm prong, 4 mm prong pitch), but looks sharper?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010WGFZB0?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=A1OIS8P00XXPZL

This is my first attempt at any sheath and wet forming. That is the reason I decided to test it out first with a scrap piece. I liked the minimalist idea and this is what I came up with. I also tested my new diamond chisels and I love them but if the stitches look a little off it's because I just eyeballed the whole project. I used 5-6 oz veg, .7 mil Kevlar thread, and finished it with olive oil then tried my burnishing wax as a water repellent by melting some over the whole thing with a hair dryer then rubbing it in while hot. I like the look of it. As for the burnishing wax I used equal parts bee and paraffin wax. I tried it on a really rough edge and used nothing but the wax and I think it works great. Any comments or suggestions would appreciated. Here are the chisels I used. It makes 8 stitches per inch.

I'd recommend an edge beveler. It's one of my most-used tools - http://www.amazon.com/Tandy-Leather-Factory-Edge-Beveler/dp/B001QT4XA2/

I'll also recommend the Tandy Safety Skiver like others have said. - http://www.amazon.com/Tandy-Safety-3001-00-Replacement-3002-00/dp/B00IVS667Y/

Edit: You might think about finishing supplies you will want as well. Dye, neatsfoot oil, and I also like the Aussie Leather Conditioner. If you will be dyeing, spend good money on lambswool applicators, they are worth the money. I recommend the standard Fiebing's alcohol based dye over all others.

I got you, man. And by "good" I'm just gonna be suggesting the next step up.

Amazon's Choice, Burning Hot deal
Its a basic, next-to-garbage example just like OPs is, but its an in-line cutter with bonus edge bevelers too. this is what I begrudgingly use, because its good enough.

I'd splurge and get this one just because it has a nicer handle and comes in decent packaging covered in japanese writing. but I won't, yet, because.. above, good enough.

I dont have a picture right now, but this link is pretty much What like what I used. https://www.amazon.com/Leather-Medium-Weight-Inches-Square/dp/B003X3VZA0/

If you look at the picture of the end of the roll you can see the sides better. It is kinda like what you are saying. It is fleshy and softer on one side, but a little slicker and like sandpaper on the other.

Ive got some left over leather so ill do some experimenting with it.

For belts, have you considered ordering custom-made ones such as from this site? Alternatively there are guides for making your own that can be found in /r/malefashionadvice and it seems to be pretty easy and cost-effective. I also love my leather hole punch, which I got for less than $10 on Amazon. Hope you find that helpful!

Absolutely. I would recommend a few tools to get started - a cheap set of stitching chisels to get you started (these poke the holes for the needles to go in and out of), a cheap wing divider to scribe a straight stitching line, some waxed thread I linked Ritza Tiger 25 in 0.6mm because it's pretty much all I use, there are cheaper options, but this thread is wonderful to work with. Most of the other thread on amazon is going to be thicker and look too chunky with a 4mm iron IMO. Lastly, some needles. I use and like these. Then just look up a few youtube videos on saddle stitching. You'll have it down in no time. It's really not super difficult, there are a few tricks to making it look nice.

The skull is great, but the stitching and edges could use work.

I highly recommend you look into getting a set of leather stitching punches like these (I don’t know anything about this brand in particular, just linking to an example). It makes hand-stitching way easier and indistinguishable from a machine stitch in terms of aesthetics.

I use a regular ole japenese skiving knife and also a "safety skiver"
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IVS667Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VQKoDbN9DVCAK

With the safety skiver I would definitely say you need some practice on scrap and to be careful because you can easily go all the way through thin leather like that.

This is just my second wallet, heavily inspired by /u/sgircys (thanks for the awesome tutorial). The leather is 2-3 oz Oak Leaf from Tandy. I've given it a couple of coats of neatsfoot oil and left it in the sun for a day. The tread is 0.8 mm black tiger thread. Chisels are these cheap ones from amazon. I've used the 6 prong one to do all of the holes in the wallet.

Another side question, if I want to get a dye would you guys recommend the oil based ones or water based?

Gotcha. Does it stretch or move a lot when you cut it?

Yeah that’s not the best way to mark stitching lines so I recommend a wing divider. This will be cost effective and will help tremendously with your stitching.

I bought these two when I started and still use them.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0779R5FCJ/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_A727AbF4N33A3

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014549SNG/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_a827AbKEF359B

They work great for me and will eventually upgrade to some quality tools like KS.

I've been happy with this kit, though half of it I'll never use:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L5LBV5M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Upgrades I have made since and would advise doing immediately or very soon:

Chisels (I would get a 10-prong too for bags) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ALZ5M3I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A better scratch awl (mine got bent while piled in with other tools)

Better threads

Needles

An organizer box

90-degree angle

Circle template

I bought these and they are WELL worth the price. Great quality, and have stayed super sharp after hundreds of uses. I've found 4mm spacing is a good middle-of-the-road spacing - perfectly fine for most things, but a bit too wide for really small projects.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016C7RLJC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Nice work!

To piggy back on /u/Zhaust, I use this wing divider. Super cheap and strong -

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EMKLKZM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks so much for the response!

Hmmm maybe that's it. What do you mean by casting? Also, I wonder if my needle is too large. I find that to really get it through the holes, I need to push an awl through and the original diamond shape is somewhat lost. As far as ensuring the slant, I think I'm doing this correctly. It's hard to tell from this picture as the stitches rest in a stitching groove, but they had a slight slant, and the backend definitely looked ~ok~ (though a bit messy like you see in the picture as far as looking a bit "twisted")

I agree about the thread gauge too-- maybe it's too thick.

Thread

Needles

Punches

Cheap trick: all you need to do is reduce the surface area / coupling of the speakers to the desk.

You can do this with a small piece of wood and a few glass pebbles. The bean shaped ones are the best since the surface touching the board will be reduced as well as the surface on the counter... if you're not near a crafts store you can use aquarium pebbles as well, if you're closer to a pet shop...


If you want to make it fancier, use these:
http://www.amazon.com/100pcs-Silver-Spikes-Screwback-Rivets/dp/B009M12D44/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406070706&sr=8-1&keywords=metal+spikes

And screw those through the board. That's probably the least surface contact you can get. Some good speaker stands are spiked on the floor.

Good question, and it pains me a bit that I have a small box of unused tools that were purchased when I began. I'm sure I missed a few things, but here you go:

• Lamp I love this thing, and it's silly how much it improved my craft.
  
• Utility knife (Stanley) with many replacement blades. I flip then toss these frequently.
  
• Shovel knife
  
• Beveler
  
• Burnishers
  
• Microfiber clothes
  
• Granite block
  
• Stitching pony (handmade and based upon http://www.instructables.com/id/3rd-Hand-Leather-Stitching-Clamp/)
  
• Awl
  
• Diamond Awl
  
• Wing Divider
  
• Pliers
  
• Craft scissors
  
• Thread snips
  
• Bone folder
  
• Mallet
  
• Cobbler hammer
  
• Ruler
  
• Cutting mat
  
• Detail brushes
  
• Needles
  
• Tokonole
  
• Glue
  
• Glue brushes
  
• 50/50 neatsfoot oil and beeswax (double-boiled)
  
• Heat gun
  
• Ritza Tiger thread
  
• Chisels I use these as pricking irons because they leave a massive hole
  
• Dremel
  
• Bulldog clips
  
  If links weren't provided then I already had the item.

Check out Ian Atkinson on YouTube, he has a lot of great tutorials.

Get a kit like this, it really upped my leather game and allowed me to make much higher quality pieces.

Don't cheap out on leather either. Hobby store scrap bags are OK for really small projects you don't care much about. For more professional items, spend the extra coin to get high quality leather. I get mine at a local saddlery.

Studs or spikes are always a fun way to add shine that are "devilish".

Mirror squares are also a bit more unique too.

Disc sequins are a fun alternative to regular little sequins.

And one of the cheapest options, cut up old Mardi Gras beads, individual beads are pretty shiny when paired with other embellishments.

Edit: formatting

I think it's this one through Amazon: Leather Side Piece Veg Tan Split Medium Weight

So based on aColorfulWorld comment, looks like I got exactly what I asked for, just didn't know what to ask. Well, learned my lesson this time around.

Thanks!

1. Your current mock-up is good for figuring out the basics of what you want it to look like. You'll want to go back through and do a mock-up with posterboard & tape. You can then disassemble the posterboard and use it as a template for cutting out your leather to the appropriate dimensions. Trust me - this will make things much easier and reduce the risk of screwing up/wasting leather when you get to that step.
   
   
2. You need a leather that is rigid enough to undergo wear and tear, so your best bet is to go with some medium weight vegtan leather
   
   
3. Other than the leather, you'll need a stitching awl, needles, and thread. These are the bare basics for what you're trying to do. Other tools like a stitching groover can help you get a nicer finished product but aren't necessary if you're simply going for a basic, serviceable pouch on your first project.

I used cheap stitching chisels from amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T17OULI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) to punch the holes preassembly. Then glued everything and stitched it up. I don't have a small diamond awl but that would definitely make things a lot easier. I put a bunch of needles through the corner holes to keep them lined up but they naturally fell out of line (because of the outside curve vs the inside curve) so I had to back stitch one side to realign them.

Great! Thanks for the feedback. As for the finishing, I also picked up a leather preparer and deglazer that should remove any coating on the boots before I use the actual paint.

You might be better off using some smaller pieces put together if you are try to save money. Regardless, 12x24 for ~$20 or 36x36 for ~$50 on amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/Leather-Medium-Weight-Inches-Square/dp/B004ZRHGP6/ref=sr_1_1?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1425668199&sr=1-1&keywords=leather+36

http://www.amazon.com/Leather-Medium-Weight-Inches-Square/dp/B003X3VZA0/ref=sr_1_1?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1424660216&sr=1-1&keywords=leather+remnants
That size

I wanted to give a heads up for those looking to save money with DIY foams. I went through 3 orders of Comply tips over a 3-4 month span. They would literally tear up due to the excess earwax after 2-3 weeks of use(even with the earwax proof version). I got fed up and ordered these

I've been using these DIY tips for a long time and its been amazing.
Puncher
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NK5VY2/
Tips
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013A0C0Y

http://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-Noise-Isolating-Earbud-Tips/

I've gone through about 8 pairs of DIY foam tips with my Triplefi v10 and still have tons of spare foam tips left.

I got a small 16$ set from amazon ( Electop 31 Pcs Leather Sewing... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07998XNQK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share )

A small all metal diamond punch set ( Aiskaer White Steel 4mm 1/2/4/6... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014549SNG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share )

And a really nice, cheap, knife ( BANYOUR Leather Knife Cutting... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07LD4PC2D?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share )

They worked for what I needed, especially as a beginner!

Using something like this is a lot cheaper than buying new belts. Works great.

Use a wing divider to draw your stitch line.

Leather Wing Divider KangTeer 5.5 inch Leathers DIY Tool Adjustable Craft Edge Creaser Rotating Leathercraft Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CK2569L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_.gN1Bb9T67MEM

Then, use a diamond chisel to punch your holes.

Aiskaer White Steel 4mm 1/2/4/6 Prong DIY Diamond Lacing Stitching Chisel Set Leather Craft Kits (4mm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014549SNG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_uiN1Bb2NAQ60Z

I use both of these products and have zero issues getting clean stitching.

> https://www.rmleathersupply.com/products/copy-of-fil-au-chinois-lin-cable-waxed-linen-thread-size-632

How does the needle sizing work? Would you suggest size 0? I'm used to medical needles where the smaller the gauge the thicker the needle.
Would a 3 prong punch and single be enough?

What are the wing dividers used for?

Is this a decent skiving knife? https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01FP7BQ82/ref=ox_sc_act_title_12?smid=A3UVIPLX0HCKB&psc=1

Is the leather glue I posted good or should I use something like this? https://www.rmleathersupply.com/collections/dyes-glue/products/water-based-leather-glue-glue-spreader-really-strong-and-dries-clear

What do you use to make plastic templates?

Tried my best to measure with a ruler at work, here's what I found:

• 10.125 (10 1/8) inches total
  
  
• 9.56 inches from end to end of band (not including metal clasp thing)
  
  
• 8.75 inches from end (not including clasp) to biggest hole
  
  
• Just under 6 inches from end (not including clasp) to smallest hole (bonus for small wristed people)
  
  [EDIT]
  Cheap leather hole punch tool if anyone ends up needing to use it, it works well: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NK5VY2/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_Hfhiub0RM4ZS5
  

You can buy a leather puncher at Hobby Lobby for $20 ($10 if you use a coupon). Here is one for $7 off Amazon. One of the best purchases I've ever made!

Nice work, really well done.

Here is an inexpensive punch I have used for years that works well: SE 7924LP Heavy-Duty Leather Hole Punch Tool, 2.0 - 4.5 mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NK5VY2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_exDxybKCYTQBP

Get a leather hole punch for best results, they are cheap. I've cut down a couple belts. Then I just used a pair of good scissors to trim off the excess leather.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CBRVKOK/ref=s9_simh_gw_p201_d0_i2?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=desktop-1&pf_rd_r=1PVZED59D6F03DF8X880&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=1970559082&pf_rd_i=desktop

I think this might work better if you're interested in trying.

I recently got into leatherworking too. I was kind of in the same boat as you looking at tools. I found this kit on Amazon it took about 3 weeks to reach me in the states. No guarantee that these are the best tools but so far they have worked well for me!

Congratulations! You've earned one of these!

Way, WAY below your budget but I got one of these plus a strop and it’s my best purchase yet next to my KS Blade pricking irons

try this one
leather punch
I bought it about a month ago, did the job well on 4 different belt so far, super easy.

I'd be very happy on Monday if I knew I was getting these spikes in the mail so I could work on a DIY vest project!

I recognize the value of good tools but I'm taking an introductory leatherwork course and although it's really interesting I don't know whether I'll be pursuing this craft anytime soon. The classroom has a skiving machine but only the teacher can use it. Would an inexpensive knife work or would it be uncomfortable or even dangerous? I saw these two on Amazon. Please bear in mind I'm one of the least dexterous people you'll ever meet.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Leathercraft-Cutting-Skiving-Accessories/dp/B01N9HDKEA/ref=sr_1_4?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1540603103&sr=1-4&keywords=skiving+knife

​

https://www.amazon.com/Safety-Skiver-3001-00-Replacement-3002-00/dp/B00IVS667Y/ref=sr_1_6?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1540603103&sr=1-6&keywords=skiving+knife

yep often a set will come with a 1/2/4/6 set up you can often get a 10 as well. it's nice because the spacing is standardized for each set.

For nicer, neater holes

A) I have an awl in my craft kit that I usually use. B) If you have a hammer and nail, you can also use that; put something underneath that won't get damaged. C) They do sell actual leather hole punches for pretty cheap.

Congrats! Soon you'll need a punch

Yeah, no problem. The sandpaper is just from Home Depot. Just use one or two to work your way to about 1200 grit. Just try to get things as smooth as possible.

The edging iron is the most unique of the tools. I have a vintage one I bought off eBay for about 30 bucks. You heat it and rub it on the raw edge of a sole to close up the leather fibers and make them more waterproof.

Then I used my finger to apply some Gum Tragacanth that helps you slick the side of the leather to a burnish / polish.

This is the wooden edge slicker I use. I use the long flat side of the handle and rub very vigorously on the leather until it has a nice depth of shine. You can use the top curved part to polish the corner of the welt. Really, though, it's just a piece of wood. You can probably use a wooden spoon handle in a pinch (though it may discolor the spoon). The important part is that it's a hard, dense wood.

Oh, and this is the edge beveler I use to take off the corner.

After using the wooden slicker I then polish it up with a canvas glove, rubbed very vigorously. You can use any piece of canvas, but the glove was convenient for me.

Yeah the Tandy #2 takes off too much unless you are working on like 6oz or thicker. Worked fine on some 8oz

Here is an edge beveler like mine. Mine just came in one of those kits of basic (most of it was junk) kits of leather tools.

This one does the job, but will be upgrading it asap.

7 in 1 Adjustable Pro Stitching Groover and Creasing Edge Beveler Leathercraft Sets to Sew & Crease Leather https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OHAHICM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_grqACbWMTQX45





Here's a look at assembly and such

Foldover wallet https://imgur.com/gallery/OKTX59t

Kind of looks like a leather punch to me.

The one I am linking to rotates, however.

http://www.amazon.com/SE-7924LP-Heavy-Duty-Leather-Punch/dp/B000NK5VY2

It looks good! If you have ~$20 to spend you can get a groover ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B074YD8DXY/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1506701984&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=leather+working+tools&dpPl=1&dpID=51qIiFoZwYL&ref=plSrch ) and stitching prongs? I'm not sure of the technical term ( www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00T17OULI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1506702124&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=leather+stitching+punch&psc=1 )

Tools List:

Diamond Awl Chisel

Cutting Mat

Scratch Awl

Channel Groover and Beveler

Gum Tragacanth

Stitching Needles

Burnishing Tool

Rubber Mallet

Please note: These are all "bargain" options. They will get you started and will do its job.

All you need is a hole punch and an eyelet setter. I use 3/16" eyelets which are a little on the smaller side but still fit most leather laces.

It looks like this is the same kit on amazon for a couple dollars more. The reviews appear to be mixed.

By hand. I bought these chisels http://www.amazon.com/Vktech-Stainless-Steel1-Diamond-Leather/dp/B00CBRVKOK

Japanese style knife (like this) preferred.

All set on leather now, thanks!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N9HDKEA/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A4V6KRCAH7YC8&psc=1

You can buy a cheap rotary punch and do it. It's really easy to use.

I would suggest this kind of device http://www.amazon.com/SE-7924LP-Heavy-Duty-Leather-Punch/dp/B000NK5VY2 better them knife cause it doesn't tear material as much so holes might stay (read not completely tear) longer.

You can then reinforce holes with this http://m.instructables.com/id/Reinforced-fabric-hole-Old-style-button-hole-or-ey/

Even better solution

I use these to actually punch the holes on thinner leather: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T17OULI/

For projects, you can do slightly larger bags, dop kits, etc if you go for a fabric lining, duck cloth or canvas would add good reinforcement.

I used a stitching awl. The needle that came with it is far too large for detailed work though. For another project, I bought a machine sewing needle. Far less ripping and allows for finer threads. You could also stitch using a normal needle.

Something like this is very necessary too for making the spots to place the holes with a normal awl:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0038HWMB2/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yeah, I just used an awl. Which chisels did you buy? I was considering buying this set.

Also, you might want to invest in a belt hole punch. They're about $8-10 on amazon, and its way easier than trying to use a drill to make an emergency hole in a belt at 6 am. Ask me how I know.

Ideally you should use something like this.

http://www.amazon.com/SE-7924LP-Heavy-Duty-Leather-Punch/dp/B000NK5VY2

might have to make 2 holes side by side. if you Cut the rubber, it will continue to rip along that cut and tear. If you use a hole punch you are creating a round hole and it has no place to tear.

If you have a farm store or hardware store close by where you live they might have one on the shelf.

Stitch Chisels 4mm
Wax thread
Saddle stitch

Get this tool:

http://www.amazon.com/Leather-Hole-Punch-Tool-Heavy/dp/B000NK5VY2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1321287194&sr=8-1

$6.68 + FS w/ Prime.

http://www.amazon.com/SE-7924LP-Heavy-Duty-Leather-Punch/dp/B000NK5VY2

PM me you address and I'll send you one of these.

Or get a leather punch that costs 9$

https://www.amazon.com/SE-7924LP-Heavy-Duty-Leather-Punch/dp/B000NK5VY2

I got one of these and have used it to make 6 new holes in my belt!

https://www.amazon.com/SE-7924LP-Heavy-Duty-Revolving-Leather/dp/B000NK5VY2

Uncaging

Marking the holes

Making the holes

This is how you're supposed to do it -
http://www.amazon.com/Leather-Hole-Punch-Heavy-2-0mm/dp/B000NK5VY2/

With one of these

I own them.

Check here

Here is the mobile version of your link

I got these needles: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001687P3U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and these punches: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T17OULI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use a King 250/1000 and a strop with some buffing compound.

Here is the mobile version of your link

Hey bud... get one of these for the next time you want to punch a hole in your leather. Not expensive and makes a much cleaner cut for the leather!

Clever died when you used a Hermes belt to try your first punch! Next time spend a few bucks on this
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NK5VY2/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_bBrcvb0R6XYTE