(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best light sockets

A clamp light will work in a pinch (get it...) but you're going to want the highest wattage you can find. 300 watt incandescent bulbs do exist at hardware stores. That will be better than nothing. Basically you want to see the light on the wall fading from just barely underexposed to darkness. The higher the wattage, the longer the gradient of light along the wall. If you tried it with a 60 watt light bulb, the gradient will only be a few feet from overexposed to darkness. With a 1000 watt light, the gradient will stretch out longer and be more useful. A 300 watt might be somewhere in between and usable.

As for getting stuff in the ceiling: Those look like drop tiles, which means there is plenty of real estate to use a spring clamp to suspend the lights. Rent a ladder from a hardware store and buy the following:

$1 Spring Clamps

http://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-1-in-Metal-Spring-Clamp-012386/203752762

$3 12' extension cords

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-12-ft-16-2-SPT-2-Cube-Tap-Extension-Cord-White-AW62640/100672800

$1.50 6' extension cord (use these with the next item to make sockets for bare bulbs and china balls)

http://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-6-ft-16-2-Cube-Tap-Extension-Cord-HD-145-017/100672781

$4 Leviton 167 socket (you can get these even cheaper at Home Depot, but they aren't on the website)

http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-167-Incandescent-Lampholder-Feed-Through/dp/B003725R74

Clear 100 watt Light bulbs

$12 hand dimmer

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-300-Watt-Incandescent-Tabletop-Dimmer-White-R52-TBI03-1LW/202051141

$10 10 pack of paper lanterns

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lumabase-10-in-Round-Paper-Lanterns-5-Count-78005/204191099

$4 Power strip

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Belkin-6-Outlet-Power-Strip-F9P609-03-DP/100654575?MERCH=REC-_-NavPLPHorizontal1_rr-_-NA-_-100654575-_-N

$5 300 watt bulb for halfway clip light

http://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-300-Watt-Incandescent-PS25-Clear-Light-Bulb-300M-TP6/100493736

$9 clip light

http://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-150-Watt-Incandescent-Clamp-Light-CE-300PDQ/100354511

$35 worklight for outside

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Workforce-Twin-Head-1-000-Watt-Halogen-Telescoping-Work-Light-637-449/202066789

$17 100' extension cord for outdoor light

http://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-100-ft-16-3-Extension-Cord-HD-277-525/100650619

Let's say you wanted to use two bare bulb sockets and two china balls, plus the light down the hall and the lights outside. Cool. Wire the Leviton 167 sockets to the $1.50 extension cords. It's easy. Do that four times; two for the bare bulbs and two for the china balls. Run these into the 12' extension cords. Plug the extension cords into the hand dimmers and the hand dimmers into the power strip. Plug that into the wall where it will be out of shot. Label your hand dimmers so you know which bulb you are dimming. Hang the china balls and bare bulbs from the ceiling using the spring clamps. Like I mentioned before, wrapping those bulbs in black wrap will make it much easier to control and help out with mood. Put the 100 watt bulbs in the sockets. The hand dimmers will be very useful for controlling the level of light output. If you don't want to spend the money on hand dimmers, buy a variety of light bulbs of differing wattage. Chances are you'll spend the same amount of money and have less control doing that though. Put the 300 watt bulb in the clip light and put it down the hallway. Like I said earlier, get it at as shallow of an angle to the wall as you can while still getting that gradient where it looks nice. Tight. Now snake that 100' extension cord out to the work lights outside. Get the work lights at 45 degrees off the wall and blast them into the windows. Too bright? Back them off until it looks good. Shoot it, clean up, rest well, return the rented ladder in the morning.

It's really hard to not make one successfully.
Most of what we do is not incredibly precise, but it's functional.
It doesn't have to look pretty, nor does every bucket have to have perfect cuts or locations. I made several mistakes making my first and current bucket, but it was nothing that couldn't be fixed with some black 3m tape and some zip ties.
Most people put their fans near the center of the main the bucket. I lined up approximately where I wanted mine and used a permanent marker to mark it. Then cut it with a razor carefully. Then I made holes around the square and held it in place with zip ties. Once you've done that you can just cover with black tape and you're done there. Repeat those steps with the rest of your fans. Some people have 2 fans in the middle and some have one on the top total, or a combination. I guess it just depends on what you're trying to do. I personally have 2-80 mm fans blowing out near the lid where the lights are and one 120 mm blowing into the bucket near the center and one 120 mm blowing out near the center. Some people use different fans that aren't pc fans with a carbon scrubber and ducting. The list goes on. Just give it a try and don't be afraid to use your imagination. Like I said if I was in Toronto i'd be happy to help for some good times and bud, but unfortunately I'm not. Feel free to lurk (as most of us did), check out tutorials, ask questions and post progress of your build if you feel the need to. Just make sure you follow protocol for wiring (basic electrical safety) and you should be fine. I run all 4 of my fans off a 12v 1a dc power source, but some wire theirs differently. Instead of wiring the lights I just bought 3 individual light sources with an plug on each end and plugged them into the timer to save time. Plus they have a screw on end so it's easier to make a good seal. There is a link that star killer posted earlier (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009SCQDA2/ref=redir_mdp_mobile) which shows what style I mean. Give it a try and good luck! Building it is part of the growing fun.

A hardware store flourescent light fixture can usually be had for about $20 and that is the whole fixture ballast and all.

This one for example is the same price as just the bulb you linked to. You'd still need the tubes then but they are not very expensive. For just starting plants indoors you probably don't need expensive 'plant spectrum' tubes ordinary ones are pretty good for plants to begin with.

I'm personally very fond of these but they do run a few dollars more and the light color is amazing for plants but it'll make you feel like you're going blind after a few minutes unlike flourescents. That bulb does screw into a standard screw fixture. I like to use extension socket cord like these for them. Both of these options would be about twice the price of the bulb you're looking at in the end but that bulb you found won't work in a standard fixture anyway.

I found this. Maybe it'll help.

Couple of things... First, you can use a light socket splitter. Assuming your house wasn't built next year, it was presumably designed for incandescent bulbs, so you shouldn't split either of the two sockets into more than about six or eight bulbs (as a max of about 16 total). Splitting each one into a pair would not be any problem.

Second, rather than using a motion sensor, you could use a contact sensor on the doors (garage door and inside door), and set the lights to turn off after a delay. This is assuming you never spend more than a couple few minutes in the garage.

Haven't tried it myself, but using motion sensors in such a large space, especially with a car in there, you'll probably need at least two for full coverage, and possibly more. (Don't forget, you can hang them on the ceiling.)

If you need four bulbs (or you could find two corncob bulbs for twice the price), you're looking at about $55-65 (for cheap white-only ZLL bulbs), plus the hub. I'm a huge fan of smart bulbs, but in this case, a $50 switch would save you money.

Just FYI, motion sensor/contact sensor is a separate issue from the smart switch.

If it starts flowering while still a clone and then goes back to veg before finishing so that you can grow it bigger and then flowered again for you to harvest, it will totally stress it out, can screw up its growth cycle and possibly go hermie. Only once it gets more than 10 or 11 hours of darkness at a time will it think "fall/winter is coming soon" and start budding, so all you need to do to make sure it doesn't start flowering yet is keep a light shining on it 24 hours a day. Technically just about any light bright enough for people to see in would stop it from flowering, but to keep it growing healthy instead of stretching out and losing leaves you can make a super easy cheap CFL light and keep it nice and close.

Go to Home Depot, Lowes, Walmart, or wherever and get one cheapo extension cord, two socket to lamp adapters, and two or more "daylight" or "full spectrum" CFL bulbs that are at least 20W actual or 100W "equivalent wattage." They'll likely be cheaper in the actual store than the Amazon price due to shipping. If you get a multi-pack of bulbs, you can always use the extras around your house though. Plug the adapters in opposite plugs of the extension cord so they both fit on, screw a bulb into each socket, and hang it a few inches from your plant.

You could get a cheap paper lantern like this Noguchi Akira replica. They're made of paper, but they look much more expensive than they are, especially at night. (IKEA used to sell a similar one, but their current paper lamps are different and not as nice.) The paper diffuses the light very well.

Then drill a small hook into the ceiling and hang it with a cheap lamp cable, with a very long extension cord to reach the nearest outlet. Exposed lamp cables are very normal in Scandinavia, and not considered an eyesore if done right. (You could also hang a pendant whose cable is part of the look, like this wall pendant thing.) The length of the cable that runs down the wall can be attached with plastic brackets for a cleaner look.

Then get a remote-controlled bulb adapter. I like that product for several reasons. One is that the adapter has a low profile, so the bulb won't stick out a lot from wherever you install it. Secondly, the light switch is split into a base plate, which attaches to the wall with an adhesive, and the light switch itself. The two parts are magnetic, so you can detach the light switch from the wall and walk around with it (e.g. you can keep it on your night stand) like a remote. Of course, you can put the bulb adapter anywhere, so the end result is better than a traditional light switch.

I didn't realize those weren't standard threads.

The easiest way to solve this may be to just replace the whole socket on the lamp. You can buy a new socket on ebay/amazon for about $10 or less. Make sure you buy one that matches the features of your current base, such as 3-way, keyless (no switch on the socket itself), paddle switch, etc. Here is an example. I just searched amazon for "Phenolic Medium Base Light Socket" and found various options. I think sometimes this lampshade holder is called a Euro style. If you are fitting an actual lampshade here make sure you measure the opening and match it to the specs of the socket.

Also some of the sockets you can buy have a tiny screw at the bottom that help secure the socket to the base. If you aren't screwing the new socket tightly onto a threaded rod that tiny screw will help secure your new socket in place. Keep that in mind when you decide which to buy.

What will you be putting in there? If it's mostly high light species you probably don't want to cheap out too much on light, but if you have a mix or mostly intermediate to low light you can probably get away with cheaper and fewer fixtures.

I have a few of these led panels, which are strong enough to tan a cattleya at a close range and could also cover a very wide area at a further distance for lower light plants. My oldest ones have been running daily for a little over a year and no issues so far, so hopefully they'll last a good long time. You could probably use one of these on each side at an angle so that the front of each shelf gets some direct light and arrange your plants closest by ordered of light requirements.

I also have some areas where I supplement light with a setup of cords---socket splitters---and smaller sized grow bulbs that I can swivel to target a wider or narrower area.

One more tip that I haven't tried with orchids but might be worth a shot in a setup like this, you could line the walls with foil or something reflective to help bounce light to the back sides of the shelves and have less spillover "going to waste". I've only ever done this with seedlings for my garden but it seemed to help.

>It's literally more work to run AC power than to run ethernet for PoE

I mean, I've been getting those lightbulb socket power adapters to plug in my wifi cameras to my outdoor lights. It's certainly much easier than running ethernet.

I bought the OOSSXX system on Amazon. It's cheap and the video quality is great. The only tradeoff is having to be careful to plug all the security holes.

Edit: There's some things to consider when using those light socket adapters:

1. Making sure the light is up high enough and/or visible in the camera frame to avoid someone just coming up and unplugging it
   
   
2. You have to permanently leave the light switch on. I use this remote control kit to turn the light off without cutting power to the camera.

Lettuce likes cooler temps and needs less light than veggies. But you'll need more than just a bulb or two. If you want to use CFLs and keep it cheap, you can use a couple brooder lamps with splitters. Each lamp will hold 2 bulbs - one at 2700k and the other at 6500k. This will provide a broader spectrum and I've found it's perfectly adequate for lettuce. The number of lamps you need will depend in how many plants you have. You need to have every part of the plant illuminated and keep the bulbs pretty close to the leaves.

I used a motion detector adapter for a socket in my coat closet. Worked OK. It shut off after like 10 minutes. I am rewiring, so I am switching to a motion detector switch which works well when the switch is in the same room as the light. Both readily available at a home depot.

A better option for your situation if the switch isn't in the room with the light would be to get a timed light switch. If you want to go all out and don't mind doing wiring, you can put in an overhead motion sensor.

Another simpler option is just to put in a lighted switch. Look at the switch and you can see if the light is on without opening the door to the garage.

Mylar is the material they line all the grow tents with, it's really durable and reflective. I've actually never heard of white poly though. If that's what is in your current box, then it's not very great. That box would be beaming bright if it were really reflective. You could get a pretty decent tent for $40-$50 if you were just looking to buy something better than a box.

You should just get a plug in light socket though, they're pretty cheap.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LFYVW7O/ref=psdc_495312_t1_B0002YTP8C

How big is your enclosure? 250 watts is serious power for an enclosure. I run total of 200 watts in my 5x4x5 enclosure in the winter and that is enough. Enclosure must be sealed for it to work, but CWD enclosure must be sealed anyways. For fixtures the most economical is to use porcelain Leviton fixture. They are very reliable and withstand all you can throw at them.

Halogen lights on dimmer work nice for a day heat, paired with some t5 UVB. Ceramic bulbs on pulse-proportional thermostat work good for night heat.

Home Depot sells it.

Edit: ah only the 2 prong one.

This is the best I could find. It will require you to remove the existing light socket and put this one in, but you can put it back at the end. Just make sure you find the ground that's supposed to be inside the existing light fixture

Leviton 9726-C2 One-Piece Glazed Porcelain Outlet Box Mount Incandescent Lampholder, Pull Chain, Top Wired, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000U39S5A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_B.npDb9X8JPSD

Doing a quick search I found a couple of options that might work for you. The first is a expansion socket that adds the motion sensing. You screw it into the existing and then screw in a bulb. Looking at your picture it looks like you have the clearance for it. Here's a First Alert model.

The second is LED lights with built in motion sensors. There's a few on Amazon that I see like this.

You're lucky, I have an under-stair closet with no light. So I get to debate pulling romex and installing a box or a battery powered light.

I got a garage storage unit. It has two light sockets for light bulbs. I got an adapter that plugs into the light socket, and ran a power strip from one socket. Runs a few work lights just fine. Enter unit, close garage door, turn on work lights, jack up vehicle with hydraulic floor jack, put in stands, and get to work. Clean up after and you're good to go.

It can be done.

It's hard to tell from your photo, but the old-style light bulb socket might be a good bet here. It seems like if you take out the bracket you can screw this directly to the box.

I had some lights like this in my house... I ended up buying some standard sockets and wiring them up, bypassing the voltage converters all together. Something like this should work well. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FMRLSWC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_gxp1CbQ4DM9TY

You can get a light bulb socket that has power outlets on the side, that screws in between the light and the socket. The ones I've seen are for indoors so I wouldn't put those in a unprotected fixture, but there may be some for outside too...

Or pull power off the light fixture.

Ed: Maybe something like this thing, people are using it outside in protected fixtures: Nyce Power LampCharger Light Bulb Socket Adapter, Light Socket USB https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P9SDHRY

Honestly the best solution is to double up. What I hate is that, at least the rgbw bulbs, are way too dim. At 2700k they are noticeably dimmer than the 810lm cree's I was using.

https://www2.meethue.com/en-us/p/hue-white-and-color-ambiance-single-bulb-e26/046677464486/specifications

So one option is to change your color temps up to a higher kelvin to get a little more lumen. Or what I ended up doing in my lamps was double up on the bulbs.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000RN19V4

Actually I put 1 Hue rgbw gen3 and a cree connected in there. I control via smartthings, so I trigger both bulbs on a motion sensor to turn on 100% or 100% at 2700k. That way my living room is not dim. If I use rgb then I just dont turn on the white only bulb in the lamp. With a shade you cant tell there's 2 bulbs in there.

For my bathroom fixtures, just added these to all three sockets: 5-Pack GU24 to E26 Adapters https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008PES6VS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_D9YRAbB6H013E Works great with my Sengled E26 screw-in dimmable bulbs!!

What would you recommend I do to accommodate that? Would a three way adaptor like this work out?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B071Y3JTFC/ref=sspa_mw_detail_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you already dabble in home automation or want to get started, you could hard-wire this type of fixture each of them, then install this recessed z-wave sensor. In this case you'd also need to get smart bulbs (I like Osram LIGHTIFY bulbs. You can get on/off only ones for $20). Then you'd configure your hub to turn on the lights every time the contact opens, and turn them off when it closes.

Okay, thanks! I'm brainstorming how to do it for my own carport. I was actually thinking about using one of these on one of the floodlights and hooking it up there....

Nyce Power LampCharger Light Bulb Socket Adapter, Light Socket USB Charging Station, Desk Lamp Adapter with Dual USB Charger Ports - Lamp Socket USB Port Tablet and iPhone Charger Adapter | 60W Max https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07P9SDHRY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_wqS3CbAYJRN12

If you want cheap and easy, but not UL-listed, I'd get some 1" furring strips (or other super-cheap wood) from Home Depot, and then some lampholders like this. Screw the lampholders to the wood, attach one end of a power cord to both wires on one lampholder and the other power cord wire to the other lampholder's wires, and you are in business.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HBT3BVM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/GE-54178-Socket-Adapter-Outlets/dp/B000TU1W9Y/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1500931612&sr=8-8&keywords=outlet+socket

I used these. 4 linked together in a two car garage. extremely easy to install and very light/low profile

EDIT: When I bought them they were $60 for a 6 pack

Assuming you are using 120v power and have TLEDs that operate on 120v power, eliminate all the current electrical components. You don't need the ballast of the capacitor any longer and the size of them isn't relevant. Run the power directly to the live end tombstone and you are good to go. Just make sure the tombstones you are using are the correct type. You need non-shunted tombstones. Check out a photo here to be able to tell the difference between shunted and non-shunted. https://www.accessfixtures.com/t8-led-tube-lamp-tled-questions-answers/ The lowest priced place to get them is Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Non-Shunted-JACKYLED-Fluorescent-Replacements-Lampholder/dp/B00SFD1AEY

Think ill get 4 of these 12 foot lamp cords for 28$. They have 660w potential.

Then grab 4 of these 400w HPS for $36. ( I would only use 3 for 1200w)

That's $64. About $30 cheaper than my original option and saves vital space inside the tent. 1200w HPS will be fine right?

good idea. This is kind of what I used and then the stand and box are 3 bucks from menards or whatever. actually i bet you could find the other thing from there too

Then for $4.50 US, get something like this or this:

You'll have to use your own USB charger.

​

My (previous) garage had two single bulb fixtures to an existing switch. When I added flush mount shop LED lights I initially had a similar dilemma. Instead of going your route, I just replaced the fixtures with ones that have a recepticle along with single bulb. Then from the recepticle I was able to daisy chain the various LED shop style lights. Also replaced the regular bulbs to match the color temp of the shop lights. With that configuration my shop lights were turned on/off with the existing switch.

Example of the fixtures which I just took most of the excess chain off:
Leviton 9726-C2 One-Piece Glazed Porcelain Outlet Box Mount Incandescent Lampholder, Pull Chain, Top Wired, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000U39S5A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_2xVUAb9MVRN3Q

Example of flush mount LEDs I have had good luck with:
Hyperikon LED T5 Integrated Single Fixture, 4FT, 22W, 2200lm, 4000K (Daylight Glow), Utility Shop Light, Basement, Ceiling and Under Cabinet Light, Built-in ON/OFF switch, 4-Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012ENQSSI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_qCVUAb35VR39K

For the garage I went 5000K but linked the 4000K since some find 5000K too harsh.

Hopefully this helps as another potential alternative.

Firstly before anything. Cut the power to that line. Via the switch in the wall, or better yet at the panel.

You can buy a power ticker really cheap to test to see if its live.

Honestly buying a light like this is cake to install.

Just attach the grounds(Copper wires) together, cap them and electrical tape the cap if you wanna get serious. Then attach the neutrals (white wires), cap and tape them. Finnally the hot(black wires), cap and tape.

Screw the lighting fixture to the box. And bingo.

Then just turn the power back on at the panel and screw in a lightbulb.

Cut slits in the bottom of that cup and put it in another cup without holes so the water can drain through. Water when it's dry, not on a schedule. If you need to add another CFL to prevent stretching like another user said, something along these lines work well.

Looks like it's basically this product.

Maybe something like this

Nyce Power LampCharger Light Bulb Socket Adapter, Light Socket USB Charging Station, USB Charger Ports, Tablet and Phone Charger Adapter | 60W Max (Lamp Charger with 2 USB Ports) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P9SDHRY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_P0nSDb34GP2TB

I had the same issue and no confidence in wiring an outlet so I just plugged this in to my light socket. Since they are plugged into the light socket they come on when I flip the light switch. https://www.amazon.com/GE-Adapter-Polarized-Workshop-54178/dp/B000TU1W9Y?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_2

Lights I used
https://www.amazon.com/Hykolity-Linkable-Workshops-Basements-FlushMount/dp/B01GJVEM4S/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=workshop+led+lights&qid=1573190581&sprefix=workshop+led&sr=8-3

I'm not sure how big of the area for that LED cluster. You might be able to replace it with a bulb cable thingy (example) and use one of those smart bulbs (example).

Any electricians that can help me out?

We brew in our basement and it has zero plugs, only 3 light fixtures that are randomly wired to breakers that control the rest of the house. Two of the fixtures have a 3 prong plug that I can use to hook up an extension cord. I looked into adapters I can buy and it seems they are all rated to 660W. One of those two fixtures has about 750W loaded on it between the humidifier and 2 light bulbs. We have also managed to keep a 2000W element on another fixture with no issues. Can I assume that this is very unsafe?

I need to power 2 fermentation fridges at 200W each, another yeast and hop storage fridge at 150W, and at least two CFL lightbulbs at 100W each (we have barely any light in there so I need something powerful). As well as other things like a vent fan at 115W, cellphone charger, stir plate, and weight scale. All the adapters I found are rated to 660W so it seems like it will be impossible to hook everything up, especially considering one of the fixtures is already going over the rated power. I know each fixture should technically be wired to at least 120V 15A so there should be enough current to power everything but these damn adapters are not rate that high. Here's a link to the fixtures I am talking about: https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-9726-C2-One-Piece-Incandescent-Lampholder/dp/B000U39S5A/ref=pd_sim_60_5?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000U39S5A&pd_rd_r=T2YDB8C5VETC8RP6Q3ZH&pd_rd_w=SWsIN&pd_rd_wg=qOqLm&psc=1&refRID=T2YDB8C5VETC8RP6Q3ZH

Disclaimer: I rent and cannot make any changes to the electricals myself.

Over the past few years I have tried nearly every brand of LED bulbs out there. I've came to the conclusion that I only trust Kobi Electric LED's. They are the only ones that I have found to not put out a hissing noise when used with dimmers. Even some bulbs that are marked as dimmable still make annoying hissing noises.

Anyways I would suggest these: http://www.amazon.com/Electric-16-watt-75-Watt-40000K-Dimmable/dp/B00O8SQCYI/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1427729542

And these adapters: http://www.amazon.com/5-Pack-GU24-to-E26-Adapters/dp/B008PES6VS/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1427729746&sr

That would work fine. I used these ceramic ones for my buckets: http://amzn.com/B07FMRLSWC

You would hot glue one of these into a big nut, then glue the nut onto the 4-square box:

https://www.amazon.com/Simple-Deluxe-Extension-Hanging-Included/dp/B01LFYVW7O

You can also buy adapters to use regular bulbs

http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-61-I-Outlet-Lampholder-Adapter/dp/B000RN18GK/ref=pd_cp_hi_2

those are cheaper, same thing, different color. I have 3 of them.

I have the perfect solution.

ebay or ebay or amazon or amazon won't work?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LFYVW7O

Just this one

Perhaps not what you're looking for but if you're primarily just trying to avoid electrical wiring, consider a light socket to plug adaptor. It won't work with all light fixtures but may work for you.

https://www.amazon.com/GE-54178-Socket-Adapter-Outlets/dp/B000TU1W9Y?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_2

You can then just plug a camera in.

I bought two of those for about 10$ each at the grocery store. I was skeptic at first of their "100w equivalent output", but they give out as much light as the 150w incandescents I was using before. I then bought a box of 4 "60w equivalent" to replace some 100w lights. I also replaced the shitty light fixture in the bathroom in which whatever bulb I tried wasn't working except for the shitty CFLs that were in it when I moved in. A motherfucking porcelain socket with a "60w" LED bulb already lights my tiny bathroom better. I think if I replace it with a "100w", it will be perfect.