Not sure if all scanners can do this, but I have this $50 unit. It will pull cleared codes and tells you how many miles the code has been active. Friend of mine was out test driving a car and called me to ask if he could stop by. He pulled in and when we restarted the car there was a check engine light. Plugged in the scanner and there was some transmission module alert. App said the code had been cleared 25 miles ago.

http://www.amazon.com/ScanTool-427201-OBDLink-Bluetooth-Diagnostic/dp/B00H9S71LW

This is what I have, works great & I leave it plugged in all the time, no battery drain. I use it with their app, OBDLink. It's a little more expensive but I was worried about leaving it plugged in & stuff and they guaranteed there wouldn't be any problems.

It can be done with $80 - $100 in parts.

What to buy:

1. Buy this OBD2 dongle ($50)
   
2. If your 1200GS is older with a circular OBD2 port (vs. trapezoid), buy this adapter cable ($22)
   
3. Download the MotoScan app. Buy the Pro license AFTER verifying the app works in step 3 below (~$28)
   
   You will need an Android device - some suggest buying a cheap <$50 Android tablet, or find one to borrow.
   
   

   What to do:
   

   
   

4. Download the official app for the dongle. It doesn't work with motorcycles, but you need it to check and update the firmware.
   
5. Connect the dongle to a car and follow instructions to pair it to your Android phone using the official app. Check the firmware version is ≥4.3 or later and do a FW update if one is available.
   
6. Move the dongle to your motorcycle (using the adapter cable if required). Turn the bike on, and fire up the MotoScan app. Like the official app, select the OBDLink LX in settings, and make sure the app sees the dongle. Select Engine Electronics > Identification and verify that MotoScan is able to read ID info. Live Data might not work until you purchase a license; if the app can read ID info, then your setup is working.
   
7. Purchase the Pro license - now you can perform a service reset (under Instrument Cluster I think).

This is the dongle I use:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H9S71LW

This is the app:

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.palmerperformance.DashCommand&hl=en

This is the headunit:

http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/DVD-Receivers/AVH-X8500BHS

My phone is rooted and currently running the stock ROM but it worked on all of the ROMs I tired.

A bit pricier, but I highly recommend this one: ScanTool OBDLink LX

My colleagues and I compared the 7 or so different brands we owned (from $5 ebay ones and up) and that one was by far the fastest (in both time to connect to the car, and update speed) outside of manufacturer-specific hardware.

Now I've been told to get a maintenance manual from Haynes (what was recommended to me) or Chilton. Helps with diagnosing issues and replacing parts, without having to do it the hard way first (of course you learn the easy way after you have done it once).

Also if you haven't bought a OBDII reader and if you have android get the Torque Pro app.

Small stuff I use when working on cars:

• Magnetic bolt tray
  
• Latex gloves
  
• Flex head ratcheting wrenches ([(an example] (https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-Flex-Head-Combination-Ratcheting-Wrench/dp/B0002NYD3U/ref=sr_1_8?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1542736171&sr=1-8&keywords=gearwrench+flex-head))
  
• Allen key sockets (more applicable when I'm doing bike stuff but still useful depending on the car)
  
• C-clamp for pushing back brake pistons
  
• Assorted zip ties
  
  Some nice to have larger stuff:
  
  
• Power bleeder (so you can bleed brakes by yourself)
  
• Lightweight aluminum jack
  
• Electric impact gun
  
• Digital torque wrench
  
• Bluetooth OBDII reader (can also be used for data-logging during track day/autox)

This is the scanner I use for just checking engine lights and reseting the codes on the road. It should work with any car that has an obd2 port but it will only give you obd2 error codes and it will never be as good as vagcom but for the sake of convenience of on the road diagnostics it's a great tool and I think everyone should have something like this so you can save yourself some money. Of course there are many alternatives to this one on the market but I linked this one because I have it and I know it works. Also I use the Torque App on my android phone along with this which is a paid app but using the free app is also fine as well. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H9S71LW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Time to get a code reader and figure out what sensor decided to commit sudoku, like https://www.amazon.com/ScanTool-OBDLink-Bluetooth-Professional-Diagnostics/dp/B00H9S71LW/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=obdlink+lx&qid=1554774198&s=gateway&sr=8-3

I got this OBDLINK MX+ or you can get the somewhat cheaper OBDLINK LX. I would have gotten the LX but I needed the MX+ for my application.

I also know jack shit, but the power of Google helps out a lot :D

Yes, it definitely would, because all the data that your car can provide is available through the OBD2, which is also what people at the shop would be using. I mostly run checks for fault codes to try to catch stuff, and so far, it's been all good, but I'm sure there'll be a time where I'm glad I caught something before it got worse.

I use Torque Pro with an OBDLink LX, which is one of the most reliable and affordable combos there is. Others use Automatic, but I find that expensive as fuck for what Torque can already do, anyway.

The key on, key off trick should work since you have a check engine light on. I have this Bluetooth code reader and I love it, you download a free or paid app, plug it into the OBDII port then link it to your phone and it will give you pending codes as well as tripped codes with a "snapshot of what the engine sensors were detecting at the time the code was set off.



Unfortunately it's just for Android, if you have apple you're out of luck.




If you search my post history, there was someone with the same issue as you, I think it turned out to be an emissions problem (he had just replaced a fuel pump and had a vacuum leak, if I remember correctly). Have you made any changes to the Jeep that may be a clue to what's happening?




I am hoping you did all the usual checks on your fluids and filters to make sure all's well. You can pick up throttle position sensors, IACs, and map sensors at the wrecking yard for next to nothing if you want to do trial and error mechanics.




I don't really recommend trying to keep a vehicle running while a check engine light and a definite engine problem are occuring, you could make a minor problem into a much bigger and expensive one.

I got the ODBLink LX and it works great.

I've got a few suggestions, mainly for the car.

Wireless Onboard Diagnostics

Android Compatible ($70)

iPhone Compatible ($100)

Remote Starter Kit (Sale: $47 Retail $200) Unless he knows how to install it, I'd advise having it installed professionally.

Car Jumpstart Kit With Air Compressor (Sale: $80 Retail $100)

Dull knives? Make 'em sharp! Knife Sharpener (Sale: $24 Retail: $40)

Finally, since a GoPro is too pricey, try a cheaper version, the Monoprice MHD Action Camera (Sale: $104 Retail: $200) Based on the reviews, it seems like it's perpetually on sale.

I may do more sleuthing, but that's what I got so far!

I have this one with the android Torque Pro app.

Can monitor pretty much anything your car has a sensor for. Speed, RPM, IAT's, EGTs, boost/vacuum, coolant temp, oil temp, oil pressure, MAF g/s, acceleration, 0-60, 60-0, can do video with overlays for track usage, read and clear codes. Was definitely worth it.

He's a car guy but also loves little tech nick-nacks, so I'm going to get him one of those automotive scanners that can sync with BlueTooth so he doesn't have to lug around one of those bulky scanners if he wants to make quick adjustments or see the gas mileage.

...Of course, every time I come up with a good gift, he gives it back going, "Nah, I don't need it." I have a Chromecast and a wireless headset because he apparently has use for neither. :/

If this doesn't work, I'm just gonna settle with Amazon gift cards or beer.

FWIW: that bluetooth reader will likely have the same functionality as the OBDLink LX but it's twice the cost:

https://www.amazon.com/ScanTool-OBDLink-Bluetooth-Professional-Diagnostics/dp/B00H9S71LW/ref=asc_df_B00H9S71LW/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312142020868&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=126738336808891258&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9032097&hvtargid=pla-433361767800&psc=1

I use one of these with the Torque Pro app on Android and it does everything I want it to.

Just a quick follow-up:

Today I replaced my cheap generic bluetooth dongle with the OBDLink LX (Amazon).

It works very much better: Much bigger bluetooth range, more readable sensors and the gauges refresh about 10 times per second, not every second. Really worth the extra buck.

Also I forgot to mention the app that I use to record the Torque app which is DU Screen Recorder.

I just bought the OBDLink LX after researching around. It's a bit expensive for a wireless OBD2 but it has the best refresh rate out of any of them (100 PID/s, cheaper ones only have around 10-20), encryption between the connection, auto batterysaving after the car's been off for a while, physical access required to connect to the adapter (random cars passing by can't connect to it). I get it later today, I can give you an update after I try it out.

I have a Google Pixel and will be using Torque Pro as well.

Re-posting because my last comment apparently got shadow-deleted even though I don't believe I violated any rule:

I used to have a very old (bought in 2011) OBD adapter that did work with the Bolt but it was a PITA because it had a very long cord connected to it and it was also kind of slow.

A few months ago I bought a OBDLink LX adapter and it's working really well. It's a bit more expensive than others but IMO it's well worth it.

I used this to reset mine before I had the plug replaced to see if the light came back on.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H9S71LW/

Good to know about the charge time, I was thinking I would stick around the charger for closer to an hour anyway since my destination has no level 3 chargers nearby.

I found myself in a bit of analysis paralysis in picking an OBD2 dongle that will work with my Bolt. I found myself stressing over stories of dead 12v batteries and error codes.

I was thinking about this green scantool but then I noticed this black scantool mx+ explicitly says " plus advanced Ford & GM vehicle networks (MS-CAN and SW-CAN) ". I kind of got stuck trying to discern the difference and what one I would need.

At one point, the catalytic converter ran under efficiency, and it stored that trouble code in the ECU and gave you a check engine light.

Clear the code using a scantool and Torque app on android. I use a device like this:

https://www.amazon.com/ScanTool-427201-OBDLink-Bluetooth-Professional/dp/B00H9S71LW

After you clear all the codes, do some normal driving cycles for about a week and see if the check engine light comes back. You might experience less throttle response after resetting your codes, as that can cause the ecu to go into throttle re-learn mode as well as do system checks for all the emissions and other equipment stuff. If you want a more thorough explanation, check out what a "drive cycle" is for testing on a Subaru WRX. The Catalyst efficiency code will be one of the first ones to check (you can watch it check in real time on the Torque app) and you'll know.

>The first question is does your heater work?

Yep, I personally think nicely, but have noticed it sometimes takes a while to warm up, but once warm it's nice and toasty.

>Does the car come up to operating temperature pretty quickly (temp gauge in the middle)?

I have a blue light and that's it...haha, I want to say I believe so, but I really don't know the answer to that.

I'll have to see if I have access to a scan tool. I have access to one that is similar to this: http://www.amazon.com/ScanTool-427201-OBDLink-Bluetooth-Diagnostic/dp/B00H9S71LW/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1453314297&sr=1-1&keywords=obdlink but it doesn't consistently connect to my phone.

Thanks for the pointers

I use RaceChrono with this ODBII Scanner (don't get one of the cheap one, they tend to have connection issues). I record separately on an old GoPro and then put the SD card in my phone to sync the video. if you have a newer GoPro then you can use WiFi to trigger the video from the app.

​

If you're wrong, you have to buy me this and have it shipped to me in australia

This is the one I use. Its a little pricier but I love the damn thing.

http://www.amazon.com/ScanTool-427201-OBDLink-Bluetooth-Diagnostic/dp/B00H9S71LW

It also works really well with the app Torque (https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.prowl.torque&hl=en).

You can do this with any car!

Buy a Bluetooth obd ii device:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H9S71LW/

You can cheaper ones for ~$10 but they might kill your car battery if you leave them in.

Install this app:
https://dash.by

Now everyone can play the fuel economy game! It made me much more aware of my driving habits and makes your boring car a little more fun.