Reddit mentions: The best motor contractors

It's probably the contact points itself with the contactor. It's probably the original one. I would just replace it and they're pretty cheap and easy to do. Once the contactor starts to get some pitting in it which is normal wear and tear it can cause the wires to get heat stressed. It's probably about 20 bucks are so online you don't have to get anything special. Go to Amazon put in search bar

Two pole 30 amp 24 volt contactor

some have lugs built in them already look at it the ones and see which one will work easier. It's a super quick replacement I highly recommend it

YuCo CN-PBC302-24 DEFINITE PURPOSE CONTACTOR 30A 2P 24V 30 FLA 40 RES FITS DP30C2P-F AC & HEATING CONTACTOR AIR CONDITIONING CONTACTOR HVAC CONTACTOR https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DAZ1HBW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hzipDbKZCZ212

I tried my first project controlling a high power and current fan and it went great, until it didn't.

Basically I hooked up an Arduino Nano to control a 5v relay that controls a high power relay/contactor. The contactor controlled a 120VAC 15A fan, and turned it on or off when a window was open or closed. It worked perfectly and I called it a night.

Next morning I found that the magnetic sensor fell off the window (sending the "Turn the fan on" signal) and the fan was on as expected. But when the sensor was reinstalled the fan remained on when it shouldnt have. Even resetting the arduino did not interrupt the current to the fan.

This lead me to believe that the 5v relay has failed in the ON position, because this is the only way the contactor and fan would still have power.

Can anyone suggest a more reliable 5v input relay that can provide power to the electromagnet inside the contactor? I've looked at SSRs as being more reliable, and https://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en/ixys-integrated-circuits-division/CPC1706Y/CPC1706Y-ND/3077519 is one that I think is appropriate, any other suggestions?

5v relay
(https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B073HX1DK2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

Contactor
(https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B001KGSJ74/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

Looking through the options I can't really find an affordable, convenient option for this that wouldn't be a chinese product with little support and that wouldn't be a huge headache.

Without knowing about the specific family of home control/ app economy you use its hard to recommend any of them at all but I can tell you what I would do for the highest quality experience and ability for expansion.

Buy a contactor like this. Put it in a box, put the plug into the box, put a light switch on the wall, tie it into the coil of the contactor. Get a generic wifi light switch that works on 110 that ties into Google or Amazon that's cheap and easily replaced.

This is the best full product I could find but it's zwave so you'd need a hub, it costs twice as much as putting a contactor in and you have to hardwire it anyway.

To be fair though I'm in industrial automation so my solution to most problems is to put relays in it

Nice to hear. what do you think is going bad in the relays? Some of the lighting is actually on some heavy duty relays. The relays that power the 120 are actually powered by 120 themselves, Something like this Those relays obviously would last a lifetime for a small load around 15 amps. Pretty cheep solution with a little more work to have a z-wave relay control another relay but if It makes it last longer lol.

Edit: whats your set up like? What components are you using?

I use this one from amazon. It has a 120v coil so it is easier to control. I use a contactor the pool pump and one for the pool cleaner pump controlled with a dual relay z wave micro switch. But any z wave switch that you can mount will work. Many pool pump panels have a place for a switch to mount. Mine is inside the panel and works great.

Sure. Here's the contactor:

https://www.amazon.com/Packard-C230B-Pole-Contactor-Voltage/dp/B001KGSJ74/ref=sr_1_2?crid=OIUJ07IZNPPX&keywords=30+amp+contactor+120v+coil&qid=1550624331&s=gateway&sprefix=30+amp+contact%2Caps%2C210&sr=8-2

And here's the box I used:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-60-Amp-240-Volt-Non-Fuse-Metallic-AC-Disconnect-TFN60RCP/100674085

It's an AC disconnect box but I just removed the disconnect switch and drilled a couple of holes to mount the relay. The ground bar is useful. Use 10awg romex for wiring it. I also used an inexpensive ($12) internet connected smart light switch that's compatible with google home and alexa to actuate the relay coil. Total cost around $30.

I threw something together that i think would work for your circuit
Honestly though i wouldnt do what your doing and run amperage through a keyswitch, for one its not really safe and two depending on what fridge you use + powering a RPI you could easily surpass the typical 10A the switches have when the compressor comes on and spikes. You may be able to get away with it though, but im a fan of using contactor relays to prevent this. It will add another $10 to the build but its a mechanical relay that can control your hot line via a key switch, and only put a few milliamps through the switch at any given time, this switch would control the 5V power supply which would power the RPI, basically identical to how an electric brew panel would work.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/2798684/BrewPiCustom.png

Obviously others should chime in if theres something glaringly wrong...i just threw it together in 5 minutes.

This is the power supply i bought to power my RPI in my electric brew panel
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008LT2PGY?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

Cut a micro usb cable, wire to the power supply and plug into the RPI's usb port...easy.

This contactor is way overkill, im sure theres better/cheaper solutions im just posting what i know would work since its what ive used...others probably can chime in on this
http://www.amazon.com/Packard-C230B-Pole-Contactor-Volt/dp/B001KGSJ74/ref=pd_sbs_328_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=31caQKUqB6L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0RJ3XDZRY4G14DRRN5K0

Thank you for your reply!

Since its pretty much a gutted shell and nothing OEM remains inside the air handler except the A/C coils perhaps you may be able to help me.

I have this

Endurance Pro Control Transformer 40VA, Primary 120, 208, 240V Secondary 24V, HVAC Furnace Multi Tap, Jard 4031F, Packard 42440 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PPK4Y9Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_8Y8uDbT9915DS

And this

Emerson 90 380 Fan Relay 24 Volt Coil, 1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LDCPQS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_h38uDbRWDC8PW

Installed.

Still waiting on this (to go outside) to replace what is there. It's a replacement of what the HVAC fella put on there (and charged me $90 for!). I'm just covering all bases here.

Packard C140A 1 Pole Contactor Coil Contactor, 40 Amp, 24V https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003U81D2I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_D48uDbAQ9XXN2


Now, I'm confused as to how I would control the fan on/off. I assume some sort of relay, presently the fan bypasses the transformer and relay coil. I don't see a 24v wire on the fan itself and it is working but not turning off. (I have the outside compressor powered off at the box waiting for the coil for that)

Do I need to connect it to another transformer and relay and connect my thermostat to both relays?

Its not difficult if you're mechanically inclined. Its just a few wires and bolts. Pretty straight forward as long as you make sure to label where the wires go so you hook up the new one correctly.

As for why it's stuck. Sometimes they can just be freed up, sometimes they need replacement. It depends whether it can be taken apart to even get at the contacts, and why it got stuck to begin with.

I can't tell you if it's the right one for your unit, but the part I keep finding based on your model number is $20 on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Rheem-Ruud-Pole-Contactor-42-25101-01/dp/B003W65I8S (You'd need to check the part number on it first).

Insteon switches, even 240V, will eventually melt with a pool pump. I've used your second method with total success for years.

A 120V-coil contactor and an Insteon micro module in a waterproof exterior junction box with flexible conduit to your pump and switch box. This will work reliably for years.

Edit: contactor, not contractor

Nothing directly. You'd need to set up a 2 pole contactor with a 120 volt coil and connect your conventional 120 volt smart switch to that. Since you already didn't know such a thing existed, I highly recommend you call an electrician to install and wire the panel.

The Wemo Switch can be wired to directly control the relay/contactor which should be more than enough.

You would just need to grab an enclosure and whatever plugs/outlets and a few bits of spare wire.

There are cheaper WiFi switches but I personally like the Wemo switches, you can set rules (like Auto-Off) or schedules and it works with IFTT for more advance stuff.

WeMo Light Switch, Wi-Fi enabled, Works with Amazon Alexa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DGEGJ02/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_8JkBybZJS8X0H

Packard C230B 2 Pole 30 Amp Contactor, 120 Voltage Coil https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001KGSJ74/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1IkBybGQNQV6G

One of these - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001KGSJ74/ref=twister_B07C1X6SHD?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

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It uses 120vac to throw the coil for the main load. From the comments, only a tiny fraction is necessary.

"The Actual, Factual, and measured Coil current at 110VAC is .04 amps or about 4 watts.The Coil does not draw .5 amps or 55 watts."

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Given that Sonoff had issues in 2017 about insufficient solder on the POW power lines, I'm glad I sent mine back.

https://esp8266hints.wordpress.com/2017/03/01/itead-recall/

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I think there's other Tasmota compatible relays. I'll see if I can dig it up.

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Buy a contactor on amazon, they're like $10. Have a standard 120v zwave switch turn the contactor on and off. That's what I did with my water heater and pool pump


Packard C240B Packard Contactor 2 Pole 40 Amps 120 Coil Voltage https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004Z0RLL2/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awd_x_N4I5xbHQJMD5Q

You want one of these (or something similar).

The coil connections go to the switched power coming from your smart switch - one to the phase, one to neutral.

Each phase wire (I think US colours are normally red and black, don't touch the earth) should go through the contacts.

Edited to remove BBCode...

I bought a plastic junction box large enough to fit everything and mounted it next to my electrical panel. It wasn't hard to do. The contactor I bought is: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004Z0RLL2/ref=oh_aui_i_sh_in_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Replace that contactor they are not expensive. When the contacts inside go bad it causes the terminals to get very hot causing corrosion and melting of the wire's jacket. With that being said also fix the red wire it should not have that much copper exposed.
Contactors are one of the most common repairs I find and also the easiest to fix.
Make sure the one I linked is the correct amperage and coil voltage. 30amp 24VAC is the most common for residential

If you are having trouble with z-wave signal maybe wifi would be better. Hook up a sonoff to a contactor. You could do it for less than $20.

https://imgur.com/a/q00X4SF

https://www.itead.cc/smart-home/sonoff-wifi-wireless-switch.html

https://www.amazon.com/Packard-C230B-Pole-Contactor-Voltage/dp/B001KGSJ74

Here's one that would work: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001KGSJ74

See my other post for more detailed instructions.

Packard C140A 1 Pole Contactor Coil Contactor, 40 Amp, 24V https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003U81D2I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_TVuLBbH855VTX

Packard C140A 1 Pole Contactor Coil Contactor, 40 Amp, 24V https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003U81D2I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pgwLDb7H92ECW

You can use Packard C140A 1 Pole 40 Amp Contactor 24 Volt Coil Contactor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003U81D2I/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_Z2XFwb682SXHW

It will work just fine.
Edit: the brown wire goes on one side of the 24v coil, the yellows go on the other side of the 24v coil. The only difference is that instead of having both low voltage terminals on one side, they are on opposite sides.

fan relays are often installed on a circuit board.

it might be cheaper for you to find a local electronic repair company and have them replace the relay, rather than calling an hvac person out to look at the system. this assumes of course you can properly identify the relay as what has failed.

follow the wires from the fan.. you might find an open frame contractor, driven by a 24 vac relay. you can replace it yourself. here's what it might look like https://www.amazon.com/Packard-C230A-Pole-Contactor-Volt/dp/B003U7W3SM


if instead you find 5 wires leaving the fan motor and three of them run into three relays soldered on the circuit board. yes, i would replace those myself. you will still need to verify they have failed before wasting your time trying to find a compatible relay.

That timer switch is not large enough to be capable of running that pump. It will fail quickly and void the warranty.

A contactor is your solution.

If you do want to use that thermostat you'll need a relay/contactor to do so. Have the output from that be the coil and have the hots from the 250 volt outlet go through the relay/contactor. At this point you'll need to know WTF your doing otherwise bad things will happen.

Also if your using a relay you might as well go with a real thermostat, powering it with a 24vac transformer so you only need the leads from the AC outlet. Put the transformer & relay/contactor in a decent sized junction box. You still need to know WTF your doing here as well. Depending on where you're located you might be required to get this device you just created UL listed as well.