Reddit mentions: The best power circular saws

I'm still a bit of a beginner and I've been working with a lot of the tools my dad has along with building my own set of tools and wood stock.

Here's my mid-range/semi-dream version but it's tools I work with every day:

Probably a bit controversial, but consider picking up a radial arm saw. You can find these used fairly easily and with a little TLC they'll be in great working order. These saws can do everything a miter saw can do with a bit more ease in my opinion. My dad has had his Craftsman since the '70s and is running like a champ. You can check out my thread on it here: https://www.reddit.com/r/woodworking/comments/7m0w22/any_radial_arm_saw_love/

I will say, you can't go wrong with a quality miter saw though. Get a dual bevel compound miter saw and there's nothing you can't make. My RAS can do this but requires a bit of set-up and isn't necessarily the most efficient.
Look at Dewalt, Makita, and Rigid for these. They'll be at a higher price point, but a Makita Miter Saw might just outlive you (my dad's Miter saw is older than me and still cutting through just about everything with ease).

As for sanders, I highly recommend picking up a Dewalt random orbit sander. I started with my dad's old makita palm sander but the orbital sander makes leagues of difference both in hand fatigue and speed of sanding.

While I recently picked up an impact driver, you honestly do not need one to start off with. Unless you find a deal on a drill/impact driver combo then skip it until you have a job that'll require a lot of driving.
Another point on this, when you buy a battery operated tool, stick with the brand as much as possible. Every company has their own rechargeable battery pack and mix and matching is a pain in the butt!

For a budget, Ryobi works great. Rigid is a step above that. If you feel like going for a higher quality, I'm a huge proponent of Milwaukee drills, impact drivers, sawzalls, etc. I've been using a Milwaukee M18 drill for awhile now and it hasn't let me down one bit.

Probably the next thing you'll need is clamps. Let me just tell you that you can't ever have enough clamps! Harbor Freight sells these phenomenal bar clamps that are amazing for any budget, really these things are awesome. Paul Sellers has a video on these as well as some improvements that can be made to them, too: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AyKiGmRq3wY
You're also going to want some C clamps. Something sturdy and a cast design. Any time I make a jig for cross cuts or need to hold something to my bench I rely on C clamps or a small set of bar clamps.

Next up, you'll want a good chisel set. I have the four piece Irwin chisel set that comes with three chisels and a mallet and you can't find a better deal for the money. Chisels are great because you can use them to create decorative aspects to a project, flush up an edge, smooth a surface, add a chamfer, etc.

Routers are great, but you really don't need one when you're starting out. Even then, I would say it's worthwhile to get a compact router like a Rigid or Makita for your first one because it's easy to use, you can use it for carving, decorative edges, flush cuts, etc. I have a full sized Porter Cable but I kind of wish I started with a compact router.
The downside of these is that routers can get expensive real quick with the bits and jigs and a table.

If you plan on working with sheet goods, you can't get by without a Skilsaw. I have a Makita Skilsaw that my dad used to basically build the home I grew up in, but I highly recommend going for the Skilsaw brand: https://www.amazon.com/5280-01-15-Amp-4-Inch-Circular-Single/dp/B01BD81BLO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1518905277&sr=8-2&keywords=skilsaw
That link is for a budget Skilsaw, but if you have the funds a Skilsaw Wormdrive will probably outlive you if you treat it right!

For dust collection, you could for for a Rigid Wet/Dry Vaccuum. These guys are powerhouses and I've used them for dust collection and even dealing with flooded basements. Home Depot has a huge selection of these, I would go for the midrange option. I have a 12 gallon Rigid and it's perfect for everything I need it for. Alternatively, you could also use an electric leaf blower, which is what I started with to blow out my shop, but this isn't too good for the lungs.

Safety glasses, ear protection, and a decent dust mask are all musts. I use a 3M respirator for any sanding or heavy sawing on my RAS. I prefer this over the disposable paper masks because it's a little less stuffy and easier to wear.

Now here's the budget version:

For about $200 you can have a tool kit that'll just about do everything the above tools can do and it might teach some better fundamentals regarding woodworking than if you start withy all power tools:https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLrnohP1V87nCxxFaIJwc6PuvlhqThL0c1

That's a video series from YouTuber Wranglerstar and I really enjoy the videos he puts out. I don't think he's always the most relatable for all audiences, but he really puts out quality content, especially in regards to woodworking. The series I linked to covers some of the tools above, but bundles together a budget build of tools you can use to accomplish just about any woodworking project. Definitely worth the watch!


Lastly, I think your first build should be a workbench custom built to the size of your shop. Run it along the wall, maybe. Now, you can do this with just pine 2x4's and you'll have something extremely sturdy, durable, and cheap. You can laminate 2x4's along their width for a thick top surface, or you can purchase some MDF or plywood and use 2x4s as a frame and the plywood as a work surface.

Let me know if you have any questions! I'll be glad to help!

A good drill is key. It's silly to stick to one brand (many people have the bs brand loyalty fetish and I'm not sure why). You'll also want to get a variety of drill bits to go with drill. Go to garage sales and start hoarding nails, screws, etc at cheap prices.

My recommendations below are based on at least 5 hours of research and shopping around. There are some things I'd probably add to the list (like a hand saw and dremel) but this takes care of a lot of your big needs. I own everything on the list and am pleased with it all, especially in terms of a performance for value ratio.

The key is know what you want then shop around / wait for the best prices (track prices in spreadsheet). Use google shopping to compare prices and see who price matches plus has best ebates or Ibotta cash back % + consider buying gift cards at a discount on Raise or elsewhere to further maximize savings (or just go with whatever credit card gets best points on particular site). Add Google Chrome app "Honey" to have coupon codes auto applied (eliminates time searching for them).

Also, I'd strongly consider getting a credit card with a decent bonus that will essentially help you get these items for free (assuming you can achieve the bonus spend with money you're already paying on existing bills / monthly purchases - it's a no-brainer in this case) - Chase's Sapphire Preferred is a good place to start ($500 bonus for 4K spend in 3 months)

Consider waiting until Black Friday (and from Jan to end of feb) for the good deals.

Drill (get a decent to really good one - you'll use it often)

• This one goes on sale for $99 on BF though you may be able to find it elsewhere for that price or cheaper now:
  
• Makita XPH102 18V LXT Lithium-Ion Cordless 1/2" Hammer Driver-Drill Kit (3.0Ah): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L84A470/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_Wv.BzbSZ9FGJH
  
  Circular Saw
  
• cordless is usually unnecessary - this one goes on sale for ~$70 on BF:
  
• Hitachi C7ST 15-Amp 7-1/4-Inch Circular Saw https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007QESNMU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_vy.BzbT32M7T2
  
• honestly I haven't used this as much as a muti-tool but many DIY blogs say you need one... not sure I agree but it nice to know I have it
  
  Multi-tool
  
• This one goes on sale for ~$99 on BF - there are cheaper ones but I like this one a lot and it has a lot of power and attachments:
  
• Rockwell RK5151K 4.2 Amp Sonicrafter F80 Oscillating Multi-Tool with Duotech Oscillation Angle Technology and 10-Piece Accessory kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HD4EQTG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_EA.BzbQ9KM4AQ
  
  Miter saw
  
• I've used this more than circular saw - it's much more accurate and fast for most jobs - went back and forth about getting a saw with a larger blade but ultimately decided 10in is enough for most jobs and I've been correct in that assumption so far:
  
• Hitachi C10FCE2 15-Amp 10-inch Single Bevel Compound Miter Saw https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000V5Z6RG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_UF.Bzb0CFWDHT
  
• paid ~$99 by buying on Jet and getting their 15% off first three orders + Ibotta 5% cash back
  
  Respirator
  
• may seem like overkill but don't fuck with your lungs: GVS SPR457 Elipse P100 Half Mask Respirator, Medium and Large
  
• https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013SIIBFQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_HD.BzbREVSMX6
  
  Horse (the 'roided out version)
  
• this has come in really handy for me as it often helps to get stuff done without extra help:
  
• Rockwell JawHorse Portable Material Support Station – RK9003 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007XRFQKW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0E.Bzb9V02GJV
  
  Sander (makes a huge difference): I've seen it in the low $40 range
  
• DEWALT D26441 2.4 Amp 1/4 Sheet Palm Grip Sander with Cloth Dust Bag https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009WRKUC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_wW.Bzb3CAWTZ9

I'm a professional carpenter and general contractor, and from my personal experience and the anecdotal evidence from the guys I regularly see, Bosch is of the best you can get for cordless tools nowadays. DeWalt used to be the go-to, but their quality has dropped considerably over the last 5-10 years. They still have some decent products, but I know of a lot of people who have had major issues with their drill chucks being off center.

This said, you kind of need a grab bag to get the best of each tool.

Here's my current setup, which is the same as quite a few contractors I work with:

• Bosch 18V impact driver/drill set. I've dropped my driver with a 6" bit attached directly onto the bit from 10' up, on concrete, and the entire thing was unscathed. Batteries last forever and charge very quickly.
  
  
• Festool jigsaw. Festool makes AMAZING products, but it's probably way overkill for most, and this Bosch model is a great second option I've seen used by many guys with a ton of success.
  
  
• Skil Mag 77 circular saw. This is the be all end all saw. It has enough torque to change the rotation of the earth. It's heavy, though, so a decent sidewinder might be your best bet. I would never use anything else, personally, though.
  
  
• Bosch compound sliding miter saw. I love this thing. You can put it flat up against a wall and still use the slider, which is a feature unique to them.
  
  
• DeWalt table saw. The major plus of this saw is that the rip fence is on a track, so both sides move together. I still never trust their gauges, but to know that both the front and back are equidistant from the blade 100% of the time is worth its weight in gold.
  
  
• DeWalt thickness planer. Never thought I'd buy one, and now I wouldn't be without one. With the combination of the above 3, you can pretty much make anything out of anything. Have a 5/4 board at the house but you need a 1x? 2 passes through the planer and you're set.
  
  
• Bosch Rotary Hammer. The demo master. It can hammer drill massive holes in concrete, or switch to hammer only mode to remove tile or glued on drywall particles. These are bulletproof.
  
  
• DeWalt orbital sander. Nothing fancy, as I don't do a ton of heavy sanding. Something to look for in these is the variable speed; makes jobs much easier.
  
  
• Bosch oscillating tool. Most brands are similar, and depending on your uses a corded model may be better. I have a second tool that uses these batteries so I have lots of backups (and they charge very quickly), and I often use it in places that running a cord would be a pain in the ass. This is great for trimming things that are immovable and can't be sawed: think door frame bottoms for new floors, baseboard trim to accommodate a new vent, drywall patching, anything. Love this thing.
  
  
• RotoZip spiral saw. Great for drywall, and there's a masonry style bit that works good for cutting pieces of tile (like around a faucet or control).
  
  
• Bosch planer. Again, nothing fancy and I definitely don't use it daily...but when you need a planer, there's not much else you can use.
  
  
  So there you go. Those are the ones that have gone through the ringer on a construction crew and have survived heavy abuse and regular moving/dropping without any signs of letting go. Some may be overkill for your situation, but they're what I've found to be best. I'm probably missing a few loose ends so look out for edits.

Cool stuff!

Here's one thing- when stacking them improves the sound, I'm wondering if that's just due to having more resonant coupled mass. Try not stacking them but instead put something heavy and rigid (old HDDs, cordless drill battery, a brick, etc) on top of the drives. See if you get a similar effect. Also try putting something heavy on top of the stack...
By resonant coupled mass I mean material that gets the vibrations of the drive transferred to it, and thus helps with putting those vibrations into the air. Thus bolting the drives down to the board will help a lot. But let's come back to that.

-----

To build your box, you really only need a couple of tools and parts, which I'll link you to now.
Cordless Drill
Cheap Drill Bits
Circular Saw (a jigsaw is also OK)
Set of 4 clamps
Carpenter's Square
Angle Brackets
Wood Screws (probably want some 1/2 inch screws too for the brackets)
A piece of 1x2 wood moulding or similar
A piece of quality 1/2" plywood or MDF
Feel free to substitute whatever's on offer at your local big box home improvement store, it's the concepts that matter not the specific models of things. With that stuff you can build almost anything, your little box will be a snap.

The key with all that- use two of the clamps to clamp the board you're cutting down to the table. Then use the other two clamps to clamp a 2-4' piece of moulding down to the board. The moulding then serves two purposes: Along with the square and a pencil, it lets you draw a very straight and very long line along where you want to cut, and then when you move the molding back a bit (by the exact distance between the edge of the saw's skid plate and the sawblade), it forms a guide for the edge of the circular saw skid plate to slide against, giving you a perfectly straight cut even from a handheld saw.
Note: always cut with the saw facing away from you or your body, and keep your fingers away from the path of the blade! Let the tool do the cutting, don't force it. When you drill a hole for a screw, pick the drill bit that's as wide as the screw shaft (not the screw teeth).

I suggest using more angle brackets to rigidly mount the floppy drives to the casing itself. Obviously brackets that have the hole in a place which holds the drive flush against the casing are preferred. Angle brackets come in all different sizes, and you can always just drill another hole through the bracket if you need to. A larger angle bracket could hold both the upper and lower drive. Or for a stack of two drives, mount one to the inside of the main casing, and the other to the outside of the HDD casing.

-----

Now back on audio. A box like you designed might really help, especially if the back is closed as you're creating a cavity which focuses all the sound forward.

However you should also get a better microphone. If as you say it sounds great in person, well, that isn't being captured well on your video. The video is seriously lacking in bass- floppys make a great raspy bass and that doesn't come over well in the video. :(
I suggest an external mic, something which will stay right next to the drives and enclosure. There are also portable audio recording gadgets which have a good mic built in, I'm thinking something like this.
(Random sidenote- that's why the clapper slate exists, seeing the clap on film and hearing it on a separately-recorded audio track is used to sync up the video with the audio...)

For reference, consider how What is Love has really strong bass, but has a good quality mic right there.
Also production wise- what that guy sometimes does is first record half the drives with the mic right next to them, then record the other half of the drives with the mic right next to them, then sync the recordings and make the two (mono) recordings into the L and R of a stereo track and lay it over the video of the drives moving which is recorded without any microphone...


Hope that helps!

If the bandsaw runs, it should still be useful. You can purchase a new blade if there's an issue with the existing one. The chisels will be fine, but you'll have to learn how to sharpen them. Sharpening systems can be expensive, though.

Otherwise it depends a little on what you want to build.

If I were starting out on a significant budget, I think I'd go with a skil saw, triangle square, tape measure, and drill/driver set. And I'd be thrilled to have a bandsaw & chisels. If you can, buy a good skil saw. Don't too much worry about the quality of the rest.

Those will all be very useful later, too, of course. Might build some sawhorses first and go from there.

A skil saw is really useful for breaking down pallets, as well, in case you plan on making use of them as a source of lumber while you're starting out.

If you want a more specific list, I own these products:

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-33-312-Powerlock-Tape-Rule/dp/B00002X2GN/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1497387060&sr=8-5&keywords=stanley+tape+measure

You don't need a 25' tape and a 12' tape is easier to use.

https://www.amazon.com/5280-01-15-Amp-4-Inch-Circular-Single/dp/B01BD81BLO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1497387078&sr=8-3&keywords=skil+saw

That skil saw isn't the best in the world, but it'll get you pretty far.

https://www.amazon.com/Swanson-S0101-7-inch-Square-Layout/dp/B00002255O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497387123&sr=8-1&keywords=triangle+square

Just a cheap, basic square.

You'll also want some clamps, no doubt. On a tight budget I'd get some walmart cheapies. They're not great, but they get the job done, and clamps are crazy expensive. You want them to be basically like this:

https://www.amazon.com/IRWINQUICK-GRIPOne-Handed-Mini-Bar-Clamp-1964742/dp/B00002244S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497387348&sr=8-1&keywords=woodworking+clamps+hand

But larger (12-36"). And walmart brand is cheaper, I think they're about $3 for a 12" clamp.

Good luck! Ask questions!

If your goals are to do fine woodworking, like interior furniture (that isn't "rustic")...or if your budget is much larger, then you'll be looking at an entirely different set of tools.

Table saw, planer, orbital sander, bandsaw (if yours is no good), bench grinder, miter saw, jointer, in order of importance (to me!). And lots and lots of hand tools. Marking gauge, marking knife, awl, variety of drill bits, counter sinks.

Belt sander, disc sander, jigsaw, router. Router can be way up there in importance if you make good use of it--very versatile tool. I just don't use it a ton personally, and bits can be very expensive.

As someone working through this but a few years ahead of you, I'll pass along the list of stuff I've bought and/or wish to buy...

Hand Tools

1. You say you have screwdrivers, but ifs worthwhile to have a full complement of them. You might consider getting a hand tool set like this one. Also, diagonals. Can't stress that enough. Eventually, you might upgrade a lot of these, but it'll get you started.
   
   
2. Ratcheting wrenches, along these lines. Conventional wrenches are functional, but these are much more so.
   
   
3. Ratcheting hex key set. In fact, this one looks good. If you have any Ikea furniture in your future, these will be worth their weight in guld.
   
   
4. Maybe a vise. That particular vice is mid-priced, but you can find well-reviewed vises at just about any price point.
   
   
5. A good range of sand paper grits: 80, 100, 120, 150, 180. You might also pick up a sanding sponge.
   
   Power Tools
   
   
6. A Dremel
   
   
7. Maybe an electric circular saw or a jigsaw. I really don't know which I'd prioritize, but you should probably have at least one of them.
   
   
8. If there's money left over in your budget, I'd suggest a random orbit sander.
   
   
9. A drill press
   
   Also, there are fluids to consider
   
   
10. Simple Green
    
    
11. Penetrating oil
    
    
12. Wood Glue
    
    
13. Mineral Spirits
    
    
14. Linseed Oil
    
    Of these, I'd focus on the hand tools, fluids, and the Dremel. You can always ask someone to buy you a saw for Christmas. If you have these things on hand, there probably won't be a job come along that you can't handle at some basic level. I'm assuming you don't need yard grooming tools, because that's an entirely different list.

It's the same principle basically as the barn door; the barn door puts the wheel on top of instead of inside the channel, but essentially the same thing. Strut is better since you put it right on the ceiling -- barn door needs three inches or so of clearance for the top wheel so there would be a substantial gap if you used the barn door stuff. Send me a napkin sketch of the situation and I will draw up something more complete for you.

In terms of tools, you'll for sure need a good stud finder to locate either wall studs or ceiling joists, unless you want to just randomly drill holes all over the place ;). A useful tool to have in the kit.

The other reason I ask about tools is that the door panel itself will be somewhat tricky to make. There is no existing door that is that big, so you will need to make something. Depending on what kind of cutting services your local hw and lumber stores offer, you may need to cleanly cut some of the panels yourself. This is best done with a tablesaw, but you can use a circular saw and make a sawboard in the meantime.

I would use two sheets of 1" foamboard with a 2x2 frame and face it with 1/4 masonite on both sides. This will paint really nice and should cost about $50 total. You can also do something more creative like clad it with pallet wood etc. I'll draw this up an send later so it's clear

I will say that he's going to be limited with that workspace, but he can get by with some basic stuff. I also have extremely limited space. I have an outdoor shop space, but since it's not insulated and has no power, I'm very limited in what I can do.

However, here's a good list of things to get.

1. Corded circular saw. I highly recommend this makita saw, it's a good value.
   
2. Metal-body combination square
   
3. Basic chisels
   
4. Workbench with clamps
   
5. Pull-cut dovetail saw -- can also be used for most short-depth cutting work. I use it to cut (or clean up) tenons as well
   
6. Glue. Lots of glue. I like Titebond II for not particular reason.
   
7. As many clamps as your remaining budget can afford. These irwin ones are always popular, work well, and are cheap enough.
   
   Keep in mind that father's day is coming up soon, and tools like these are popular things to be put on sale. Keep your eyes open :)
   
   

> And yes, you had better believe that I would gladly use a beauty of a skilsaw like that:)

I like the part where the housing is live at mains and requires the grounding wire before grounding pins existed... Better not use it in the rain <3

Also, you have to consider, things were hand built. Hand milled. There were very limited automation, if any.

Which means


A. Expensive as hell to produce quality.

B. Things were beefed up to deal with variances introduced from human errors

Today, it's 95% fully automated with high precision and tight tolerances. Which allows manufactures to reduce materials to get the same job done while reducing the cost drastically.

I looked up the prices for circular saws in the 1940's. Can't find archive for the Model 77, but I found this sweet catalog for power tools, including the model 520 circular saw. Look, it costed $60 in 1940's. Sweet, it costed the same as a new one today!

Oh wait, better account for inflation.... oh....my... $1,000 in today currency. LMAO

I used a Fein multi master for about 2 years doing trim and door installs. It works great but it's loud as fuck and will rattle the begezus out of your hands. The Cordless Makita was a good upgrade. The Milwaukee cordless multi tool was nice to use as well. (have no experience with other brands)

Festool's rebuild service is pretty good from what I saw. The only thing about their tools however is the switches and cords wear out quick in a production shop setting. It kinda sucks when you have to spend 15 minutes fiddling with it to get it to work or you have to rebuild the cord end because the wires keep breaking off.

Tool parts: http://www.ereplacementparts.com/power-tool-parts.html This is one of a few sites that sell parts in addition to the manufactures service centers which you can usually order parts from as well.

The only makita cordless tool I replaced was my impact driver and thats only because they came out with a quieter version. My ears have thanked me ever since. I've had them for about 7-8 years now. No issues with batteries, chargers or otherwise.

I've spent time with the Festool miter saw and I hated it. It's very clunky for the money and lacks in capacity. Also you'd think something that expensive would have a soft start instead of bucking like a mule. *Also the stupid safety lock drove me nuts as no other miter saws really have them.

Having been a trim carpenter for a few years I got to use several different brands and even models and some were better than others. the Bosch saws were hit or miss. The craftsman, a 20 year old thing I had for a while was actually pretty good for a long time but the Dewalt saws were always spot on even after being bounced around in trucks and trailers for years. I currently use a dewalt 716 miter saw and my only complaint is the dust collection is shit. After 13 months of constant use I still have yet to have to adjust it.

A good quality skil saw and a straight edge jig works the same way and is several hundred dollars cheaper but to each their own I guess. I use something like this with my Ridgid R3203 6 1/2-Inch saw Which has never failed to handle anything I've thrown at it. It's a hell of a good saw if your looking one.

Tool quality on the Domino Knock offs will certainly be a top priority and you are right that if it's not flawless it won't be worth it but we have to wait to see what the competition comes up with.


Btw I've enjoyed this conversation. It's been a good way to talk tools and share our insight without it getting into the weeds.


Edit: fixed my shitty memory from 6 years ago with the festool miter saw

DeWalt makes/sells 60V batteries for their FlexVolt tools, they also have a higher amp hour rating when used on 20V tools - meaning they last longer.

I'm an electrician, and I use all Dewalt 20V XR tools, love em, absolutely zero issues. I've been pounding holes with a 2" holesaw and 7/8" auger bit at work and my 4 amp hour batteries last pretty long imo. I've also had a bunch of my power tools for years, so I'm a fan of the quality, especially since I drag mine through the dirt, drop them, get them wet, and I've flown with them a lot.

You definitely do not need FlexVolt tools, as a homeowner/casual DIY'er it's overkill, do not let anyone try to sell you that. It's a waste. Hell, the XR tools are probably more than enough, bordering on "might be more than you need". The regular 20V stuff is good enough for around the house.

As for the other brands, people are going to obviously point out Milwaukee and piss themselves like an excited dog going on about their stuff, personally I find it overhyped. While it's good, and I've used a bunch of their stuff, I still like my DeWalt. Also, usually it's pretty expensive - but when I compare prices I'm usually looking at their higher end stuff (M18 Fuel).

Makita is nice, not a lot of people use it, I'll leave it at that.

People say Ryobi is good for around the house, but I've always thought of their stuff as bargain bin tools. You buy it when you're broke and need a drill to do something, and might use it twice a year.

Rigid has a reallllly good warranty, their tools aren't half bad. I'd recommend them over Ryobi and Makita any day. Worth mentioning that Home Depot usually has "Rigid Days" or something where they have really good deals.

To sum it all up: Milwaukee is overhyped imo, DeWalt till I die, who uses Makita? lolRyobi, Rigid is also good. So DeWalt or Rigid.

Obviously batteries are always going to keep changing. It's bound to happen. They're constantly developing new and better technology so it only makes sense.

Also, I should have pointed this out first... You can still get DeWalt 18V tools on Amazon...

Here's the saw: https://www.amazon.ca/DC390B-Bare-Tool-18-Volt-Cordless-Circular/dp/B002VWK5RI/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1X0DARJY06Y35&keywords=dewalt+18v+circular+saw&qid=1556835828&s=gateway&sprefix=dewalt+18v+circu%2Caps%2C168&sr=8-1

Here's the impact: https://www.amazon.ca/DC825B-Bare-Tool-18-Volt-Cordless-Battery/dp/B002RT7K4Q/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=dewalt+18v+impact&qid=1556835851&s=gateway&sr=8-1

Apologies if you're not Canadian, but the US Amazon should have them as well.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00002269C?vs=1
Saw Boss by porter cable , I own one, pros: its powerful and light, cons: it shakes and vibrates to much , combined with its lightness makes freehanding long cuts a little dicey. I use it with a jig those issues are remedied. It is basically the same as any 12/18 volt cordless saw.
Porter cable trim saw
http://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-314-4-5-2-Inch-Trim/dp/B0000222WY
I have used this saw, it's very well made, thin blade, good base, does not vibrate. It burned out doing some high production work in sheet goods.

I own the porter cable 71/4 it has a great base for jig work , is light, and powerful. Because I grew up on a skillsaw the left side thing makes me a little less confident in long freehand rips.

I have used most saws, hit me with any questions.

No worries! Below is a link to a circular saw by Skill (or you can search “circular saw” on amazon. It’s one of the first results and is just over $60). It’s kind of the bread and butter of circular saws. It’s the one everyone has. It’s the one I have (minus the laser)! Good saw and it can be used for a whole lot of stuff. Different tool than what is shown above, however. The posted tool is a planer which helps make boards a uniform thickness.

skill saw

Edit: After reading your comment again, he’s definitely asking for the circular saw; however, if you’re already buying tools and want to buy more tools, a reciprocating saw would work way better for something like cutting through a wall. It’s a good general purpose tool as well (I’d stick with the circular saw if you’re only getting one though).

reciprocating saw

I bought a Dewalt 6.5" 18V circular saw for my DIY projects (renovating an entire house) which has treated me very well. I have a table saw and mitre saw which I use for high volume cutting, so my circular saw doesn't get used much. For what I do need it for, this guy works pretty well. I've cut 1 1/4" MDF with this thing and it worked great. Nice and light compared to most circular saws.

The blades are a little harder to find because of the odd size (6 1/2"), and I would hesitate to recommend it if you need to do a lot of cutting with a circular saw or if you don't have a table saw. I bought Dewalt because I had the batteries already; I read reviews on it first as I was suspicious of a cordless circular saw (I expected it to either be underpowered or have very short battery life), but the reviews are mostly positive and I enjoy not having to run an extension cord for the infrequent times I find a need for it.

Nice! Pretty piece of wood!

Next time buy one of these though. You'll never regret it!

http://www.makita.ca/actionimages/5402NA_act_1.jpg

(Ha, just kidding...although it would be great to show off)

Here is another option:

https://www.amazon.com/Prazi-USA-PR7000-Cutter-4-Inch/dp/B0000224SA

Ok, done now...

Can someone help me turn my old computer desk into a STANDING computer desk? I basically wanna do this.

I don't wanna get rid of my current desk. I decided I should BUY a second table top and stack it on top of my desk using table legs or something so I can have a sort of double decker standing desk like the picture above.

Here is my desk already bought 8 years ago.

Here is the extra table top that I plan on buying. The image is misleading. I'm going by measurement. I need 40-45 inches wide.

So I guess what I need help with is:

• buying table legs that screw from BOTH ends so the second top is secure to the desk. No sliding!!
  
• letting me know how to make the installation in case I miss an important step. Or just telling me that this is a bad idea.
  
• finding a better table top to match the original top on my desk. It's the best one I could find but the laminate is not as shiny as my current one. I'll live, though.
  
• I have a power drill with drill bits including a hole saw drill bit. I also have a Worxsaw which I don't wanna use unless I'm desperate.

A circular saw is basically an electric motor with an on-off switch, so they're pretty durable and for most purposes they're interchangeable. That particularly model is a 13 amp motor. You might want to consider getting the 15 amp version for the additional cutting power but honestly you'll probably be fine with the 13 amp version.

If you're doing any sort of fine woodworking you're much better off sinking money into a good blade. (As the Shop Talk suggests.)

There might possibly be somewhere that would do that for a fee... but that fee would almost certainly be higher than the cost of a cheap Circular Saw, like this. Probably half your neighbors have one, too, for that matter.

Or if that's too rich, and you're feeling anti-social, drill a hole in it and use a jab saw... though that will take a while. Sigh... no drill? Yeah, just get the circular saw.

Thanks for the suggestion, really appreciate it. Out of curiosity what is the difference between the
Makita 15 Amp 7-1/4-Inch Hypoid Saw and the [Makita Magnesium 7-1/4-Inch Circular Saw] (http://smile.amazon.com/Makita-5007MG-Magnesium-4-Inch-Circular/dp/B000N5SVEY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1452544752&sr=8-2&keywords=makita+15+amp+magnesium) (Hyoid vs Circular)? Is it just the ergonomics? It seems like the like the circular saw is smaller than the hypoid.

If he goes this route, I might even suggest adding the extra $20-30 and getting the Magnesium version as it has the same features, but is lighter due to its magnesium construction.

This is the saw I got and I love it. Enough power to more than handle my needs as a homeowner and was at a good price.

I hear you, but there is only one way to get that experience. You don't need a workshop either...

You could do it well with:

• circular saw ($50)
  
• cheap drill press ([$50 w/ coupon](https://m.harborfreight.com/8-in-5-speed-bench-drill-press-60238.html?utm_referrer=direct%2Fnot%20 provided))
  
• handheld router ([$75] (http://www.cpooutlets.com/factory-reconditioned-ridgid-zrr2401-1-6-hp-laminate-trimmer/rgdrzrr2401,default,pd.html?ref=pla-mobile&zmam=31282435&zmas=47&zmac=722&zmap=rgdrzrr2401&gclid=Cj0KEQjwmv7JBRDXkMWW4_Tf8ZoBEiQA11B2frK1GwIs5sOvBFNJc6Fp5FC55fP6LjREXE_W7j_HsdQaAjuc8P8HAQ) + ~$20 for bit kit)
  
• handheld drill
  
• handheld sander
  
  It'll be more than a weekend project with those, but a great experience.
  
  A table saw (~$200+) and/or miter saw ($100) aren't needed, but would speed that up significantly.

Then I'd pass.

Assuming your budget is around $200. Here's what I'd do.

1. Wait till Home Depot has a Ryobi sale. You can usually get a Drill + impact driver and 2 batteries for $100 when they do.
   
2. Buy one of these two
   
3. Catch a good circular saw on craigslist for $50, or something like this from Amazon if you can't find anything good used (good = retail price $100+).
   
   If your budget is a bit more, I'd plan to spend $100 to $150 on a nice powered circular saw, and still get the Ryobi drill, and the read reviews on jig saws to find a good one.

Any reason you are wanting a Bosch specifically? Makita is well know for excellent circular saws; this one is excellent: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000N5SVEY/

This one, but I'm partial to worm drives. Skillsaw has the history, but they haven't really kept up with the big boys. Dewalt makes decent DIY tools, but don't hold up as well long term (some pros don't mind that, lower cost and all). It really doesn't matter too much, any one of them will work just fine. The only real differences are fit&finish, accessories, and ergonomics. If you can find them in a store, pick 'em up, play with the adjustments, and make your decision from there.

If you're doing just basic construction, I wouldn't splurge too much on the circular saw. I've had this saw for years and it hasn't failed me yet.

What you do need to invest in are solid blades. I've been a fan of Freud Diablo blades myself and they last quite a while. Just this past weekend I was ripping sheets of plywood with the aforementioned saw & a 60T Diablo blade. The results were fantastic.

This is the saw that you will find in garages and construction sites across the country. It is an extremely well built, sturdy, accurate saw. And it's not crazy expensive.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004YIALZI/ref=mp_s_a_1?qid=1367836425&sr=8-2&pi=SL75

After that, I'd consider getting one of the 4ft clamp guides, like this one from Emerson, or Kreg makes one as well: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0000DYV40/ref=mp_s_a_1?qid=1367836606&sr=8-4&pi=SL75

SKIL 5280-01 15-Amp 7-1/4-Inch Circular Saw with Single Beam Laser Guide https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BD81BLO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_gnuBzb5NNEHDQ

I'm sure there are better circular saws out there but for $60 I've been completely satisfied.

I bought this drill set on Amazon and ended up breaking 2 pilot bits so had to buy more lol. Also I bought this saw and these clamps. Let me know if you have any questions and we can try to figure this out together!

Best advice I can give is to buy things as you need them. I added a bunch of stuff to my Amazon wish list (jigsaw, reciprocating saw, orbital sander, router, etc) and it really adds up, but I'm going to take it one step at a time so I don't blow my entire paycheck on tools.

I have no idea about the relative qualities of any of the off-brand track saws, but for half the price of one of them you could get a top of the line circular saw. I can tell you that I never use my track saw for regular every day stuff, so owning one doesn't obviate the need to own a decent circular saw.

Here's the nicest regular size Makita, it's $25 off until the end of the year, so it would come out to $145 plus tax: https://www.amazon.com/Makita-5007MGA-Magnesium-Circular-Electric/dp/B000RQ68V2

seems to be zip code specific, but this Skill saw is showing up for $71.60 for me http://www.lowes.com/pd_81341-353-SHD77M_0__?Ntt=shd77m&UserSearch=shd77m&productId=1101667&rpp=32

and it sells on amazon for $179 http://www.amazon.com/SHD77M-4-Inch-Drive-SKILSAW-Circular/dp/B000P7MAGA/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1407890419&sr=1-1&keywords=SHD77M

Definitely a flippage opportunity, but its out of stock at all of my local stores :(

Here's the Ironton on Ebay for $30 - https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-Inch-Electric-Cut-Off-High-Speed-Power-Saw-Grinder-Metal-Cutter-Garage-Tool/253537007326

Also was recommended the Worx 4.5" - https://www.amazon.com/WORX-WORXSAW-4-1-Compact-Circular/dp/B00ZFR4GJE/

Not sure what the best size is for general use with small things.

The Makita 5007 is the best circular saw for the $ in my opinion.

http://www.amazon.com/Makita-5007NK-Amp-4-Inch-Circular/dp/B002FBPZ1G

I've got a 20v Max DeWalt 7 1/4" and got my FIL a 60v 7 1/4"... The 60v is awesome, my 7 1/4 works really well too. Got my Dad a Milwaukee 7 1/4" which is really nice too.

​

Get a 7 1/4" if you can, not much more and you get more depth of cut and a stronger saw.

I wouldn't be hesitant to buy a cordless circular saw for your use. FIL built my deck with the 60v I got him. He went all day without going through a battery on 2x12, 2x6, 2x4, etc. Where i've heard cordless will kill batteries is on cutting a lot of sheet material (plywood/OSB).

​

Bought my FIL this kit for $307. https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCS575T2-FLEXVOLT-Brushless-Circular/dp/B01H9BLW90/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=60v+dewalt+circular+saw&qid=1554923930&s=gateway&sr=8-2

I work in construction and bought one similar to this over 30 years ago (Fewer features.) and it has never let me down. It's a great saw for the money.
http://www.amazon.com/Makita-5007MG-Magnesium-4-Inch-Circular/dp/B000N5SVEY/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1419277152&sr=8-7&keywords=makita+circular+saw

Here's my list:
-Good sidewinder with electric brake https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RQ68V2/ref=psdc_552922_t2_B000N5SVEY Cast alloy foot is stiffer and less willing to bend when you drop it, beefy knobs permit easier and more accurate adjustment, brake prevents you from setting it down on the cord while the blade is still spinning.
-12 volt compact cordless https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-PS31-2A-Lithium-Ion-Batteries-Carrying/dp/B003BEE2LU
-Folding sawhorse/bench https://www.amazon.com/Target-Precision-RB-H1034-Sawhorse-Complete/dp/B00005A1KE
Total: $850

I've never had that problem. Or I'll get an 8'x4' sheet and have them cut it down into four 2'x4' which makes it fit in my car and easy to cut when I get home.

To the OP though, it is easy. Go buy a circular saw and read the instructions. Place your wood on a surface that makes sense, use a tape measure to mark it up, and just cut the damn thing, Maybe even look into one of these little 4 1/2" blade circular saws. I got an open box one of those on amazon for 30 bucks and really enjoy it for quick cuts where I don't need much power. Plus, you don't need perfect cuts for cutting down for the laser. Just close enough so it fits and you aren't wasting material.

if you really think money is no object, i recommend the dewalt flexvolt, particularly for the circular saw. it is the strongest cordless circ saw on the market, running on 60/54v, and the batteries are backwards compatible with Dewalt 20v tools. it is a 7.25" blade. DCS575T2

> $900

Heck, $900 for eight pounds of machined metal? A really nice power tool, of similar complexity and precision might cost 1/4 of that.

Go to a pawn store or craigslist and buy two named brand saw for the price of one good new one. Use one for the driveway/masonry work, the other for woodworking.

To test them, spin the blade/arbor. Is it smooth or are the bearings clunky/shot? Turn the saw on, motor still sounds strong or is it struggling even with no load? What's the condition of the casing/shoe/plate.

If you're dead set on buying new off amazon then whats your price range. Corded or Cordless?

Skil makes a good entry level corded.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BD81BLO/

Personally I'll never use another corded circular saw again.

I'm not a big fan of cordless saws as I feel like they just chew through batteries too quickly and the power is always lacking over their corded counter part. I also find that if using a circular saw or reciprocating saw that portability isn't that big of a factor and that I'm likely to be doing a lot of cutting with both. That said this is what I would start with for under $400. You can then supplement as needed with the tools that you actually need as you need them.

Bosch CLPK234-181L Drill and Impact Driver $205

Makita 5007F 7-1/4-Inch Circular Saw $99

Dewalt DW304PK Reciprocating Saw $79

Angle Grinders, work lights and jig saws can be handy when needed but they don't need to be part of a set in my opinion. A halogen work light will get you a lot further in my opinion.

Video games rock!

and um... maybe a Skilsaw takes a lot of skill to use?

Tomahawk and a circular saw!

$45 shipped. Maybe you are thinking of a table saw?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000P9H4VO/ref=pd_aw_vtph_469_lp_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=0V21MN5QWDQ133XJ63Q5

The Makita 5007 series saws are workhorses at an affordable price. Used by lots of contractors.

They each have their purpose. For less than $200 you can have all 3.

https://www.amazon.com/Skil-5480-01-Amp-4-Inch-Circular/dp/B000P9H4VO

https://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-PCE345-6-Amp-Orbital-Jig/dp/B00OZEUL7Y

https://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-PCE606K-Oscillating-Multi-Tool-Accessories/dp/B00L47A9CC

That is a big saw. Incidentally, just spotted this at the end of the page you linked:

link

I grew up in the construction industry, everyone used a version of this saw. So this is the one I got, must have had it for a good 15 years now and no complaints.

http://smile.amazon.com/Makita-5007F-7-1-4-Inch-Circular/dp/B004YIALZI/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1408595797&sr=1-1&keywords=makita+circular+saw

I can unscrew the legs. I don't know if that would make it less sturdy. I was thinking of just trimming the edges, but they only come out to an inch. I have about 8 inches to spare on the other end: Imgur

How much do you think I can cut without messing up the balance?

And would one of these saws do?
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ryobi-12-Amp-7-1-4-in-Circular-Saw-
CSB124/100634339
http://www.amazon.com/Skil-5480-01-Amp-4-Inch-Circular/dp/B000P9H4VO/ref=lp_552922_1_1?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1410487729&sr=1-1

Do I need to buy a higher toothed blade?

I can also replace that side of the table with this http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/00251338/ and these: http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/30264301/

But then the table could only sustain 50 lb instead of 170.

Im new to woodworkong. Two weeks ago I bought the 15 amp Skil circular saw and have only been cutting 3/4 inch thick plywood so far without issue. I was trying to make Mathias wandel's sawhorses tonight. When I was trying to make the 18 degree cut through the 2x4s the wood started smoking and I could barely move the saw. I stopped and tried once more with the same results and then quit for the evening. My stupid question is am I screwing something up, my saw can't handle the cut, or is there something wrong with my saw?

Thanks!

References:


Saw: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01BD81BLO/ref=sxts1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484700942&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65

Sawhorse plan: http://woodgears.ca/sawhorse/