Reddit mentions: The best powersports fuel system products

Sounds like you’re doing everything right, I have not hesitated to use a higher concentration of seafoam but it feels like a rebuild is in your future.

Rebuilding the Carbs isn’t difficult and YouTube is full of exact videos on how to do this probably for your exact bike too.

Having a nice, clean well lit work surface is important, Spread out a light colored towel to keep small pieces from rolling, disassemble and lay the parts out exactly as you take them apart, do them one at a time so you still have another carb for reference on how it goes back together. Wear nitrile gloves, good dexterity and saves you hands.

Examine the numbers on your jets so you can get a kit with the same exact parts in it, we don’t know if anything was changed in the past.

Use a good carb cleaner and a stiff toothbrush, not a wire brush. Put your float in a container with gas to be sure they float, take a pic and compare to how the other float floats, pretty important. In fact, taking many pictures along the way is highly recommended.

With two carbs, you may be able to sync them without tools, but a dual vacuum meter setup is the way to go, here’s one.

AlphaMoto Vacuum Carburetor Synchronizer Carb Sync Gauge 2 Cylinder Bike Cb Cl 350 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004MSJ7C8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_aFG0AbHHTVZK2

Last year a buddy and I took a 1300 mile trip around Colorado /r/dualsport ride on a Husqvarna 701 and a Yamaha WR250R. Here's a photo of the gear from last year.

This year we are adding one person (riding a monster, brand new, KTM 1090 Adventure R) to the crew and moving a little farther west to see some of the amazing sites in Utah. I put together a 1500 mile route, and will tack on White Rim Trail (if we can get passes) and wander around in Beef Basin for a bit.

A few of my friends have started using Polar Steps, so I've setup a trip and will try to keep it updated. I also maintain a simple website and will post photos on my flickr account.

Now, on to the fun, because sorting out gear and packing is half the fun of a /r/motocamping trip.

I'm involved in volunteer search and rescue (/r/searchandrescue) so a lot of this gear comes from my callout pack and extended incident command packs. The more experienced riders will notice that I'm lacking any tools, spares, tube slime, etc. I'm fortunate enough to be riding with 2 other riders that are packing all that jazz.

Two mottos:

1. buy once, cry once
   
2. high speed, low drag
   
   motorcycle
   
   

• Yamaha WR250R 2018
  
• Dunlop D606 tires
  
• heavy-duty tubes
  
• Tusk rack
  
• Tusk handguards
  
• Rox Speed 2" risers
  
• Seal Savers
  
• Moose Racing skid
  
• HaloCam front+rear dashcam
  
• IMS 3 gallon tank
  
• Double Take enduro mirros
  
• Edge2 fender eliminator
  
• USB charging port
  
  navigation
  
  
• Garmin 64s - Most Garmin's allow OSM maps. Free, crowd-sourced maps are a huge win in my opinion.
  
• Garmin inReach Mini - in the event I "full send"
  
• OSMAnd+ - Open Street Maps offline maps
  
• GaiaGPS - offline satellite images, private/public property maps, USFS road maps and topo maps
  
  photgraphy
  
  
• Sony a7iii
  
• Sigma 14mm f1.8
  
• F-stop Navin - mounted on my chest, holds my Sony a7iii
  
• Lowepro Toploader chest harness
  
• Lance Camera strap
  
• 3x Sony batteries
  
• Osprey ultralight dry sack 6L
  
• GoPro Hero 6 Black
  
• 6x GoPro batteries
  
• GoPro battery charger - charges 3 batteries at a time
  
• GoPro ND filters
  
• various GoPro mounts
  
  medical and hygiene
  
  
• SAM splint
  
• NAR Hyfin vent chest seal
  
• NAR rolled gauze
  
• QuikClot clotting gauze
  
• thermal blanket
  
• 3x hand warmers
  
• triangular bandage
  
• medical tape
  
• wound seal
  
• NAR tourniquet
  
• Leatherman Raptor medical shears
  
• basic meds
  
• basic bathroom supplies
  
  wearing
  
  
• Forma Adventure boots
  
• Fox v2 VLAR helmet
  
• REV'IT! Wind Jacket
  
• 100% Accuri Sand - the "sand" model helps with wind blowing on my eyes and drying contacts out
  
• grey smoke lens
  
• Mammut Neon Light 12L backpack
  
• Nonoise ear plugs - I know they are a bit pricey, but I've worn them 5 days in a row over 1500 miles and didn't even know they were there
  
• Road iD - blood type, date of birth, allergies and wife's contact info
  
• gloves
  
  sleeping
  
  
• Kammok Roo Single hammock
  
• Twisted Root Cloudburst rainfly
  
• Big Agnes Hitchens UL 20 sleeping bag - ultra-light, ultra-compact, I carry this for winter SAR activities
  
• ALPS Mountaineering compression sack - medium size, I use this in place of the Mosko Moto tail bag because it fits my sleeping bag, rainfly and hammock
  
• REI Flash sleeping pad - insulated is important
  
• Osprey ultralight dry sack 12L - used for my sleeping back, inside the ALPS compression sack, to ensure my sleeping bag stays dry
  
  inclement weather
  
  
• winter riding gloves
  
• Olympia Horizon rain pants
  
• rain jacket - cheap, no-name, fits over riding jacket
  
• face mask - ski/snowboarding style
  
• windbreaker - for over riding jacket, cheap no-name brand
  
• smart-wool base layer
  
• fleece jacket
  
  food
  
  
• 2.5L Osprey Hydraluics LT - inside the Mammut backpack
  
• GSI Pinnacle Soloist pot
  
• Light My Fire spork
  
• UST Delta Stormproof lighter - this actually failed to work on my trip last year to Colorado, but I think it was because we were at altitude
  
• [Primus Micron trail stove](primus pocket rocket) - mine is an older model
  
• Primus fuel cannister
  
• 4x backpacking dinners
  
• 4x backpacking breakfasts
  
  motorcycle
  
  
• 2x Primus 1.5L fuel bottles - unleaded fuel is important
  
• funnel
  
  clothing
  
  
• 1x riding pants
  
• 2x shirts
  
• 3x pairs of socks
  
• 3x underwear
  
  luggage
  
  
• Mosko Moto Reckless 40L saddlebags - I did 1500 miles through CO last year with these and absolutely loved them. A key feature for me is that I can snag the "sleeves" and run under a rainfly and setup my entire camp. Other brands, all your gear is in a bag, on the bike, so you have to stand next to the bike while you setup camp. Also important for when staying in hostels.
  
• Mosko Moto Pico tank bag
  
• Rok Straps
  
  misc
  
  
• Moo cards - I carry these for dropping in geocaches and sharing my photos with people I meet.
  
• Zebra H600Fc - recommended in /r/flashlight by /u/Zak
  
• 2x USB cable - multi port - these are nice and short, and can charge both micro-USB and USB-C devices at the same time
  
• Leatherman Skeletool
  
• flip flops
  
• shorts
  
• t-shirt
  
• 10x rechargable AA's

Hey y'all! Some of you asked about mods so here is a full list of what I have done so far with links.

Radiator guard - Has a nice little FZ-07 etched at the bottom.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075MCXCM7/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Shorty levers - Mine are gray but they come in lots of colors.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0197N3KA2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Bar end mirrors - You can find these for less but I chose these because the reviews indicated that they might be better quality than others.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Q3UL6S6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yoshimura fender eliminator - Kinda pricey for what it is but it looks really nice.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T6J9IM2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Motodynamic integrated tail light - I also looked at the TST but after looking at some videos decided on this one.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015NN3YUG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Proton 500 flush mount LED - These things are brighter than the sun. You can also change the signal pattern which I thought was cool.
http://www.hightechspeed.com/products/Proton500/yamaha.html

Flasher relay - Prevents hyper flash and let me get rid of resistors.https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RM26LXO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Stompgrip volcano black - I really like these and they have great grip. You can also get them in clear from their website if that's your thing.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018NH74BE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Akrapovic TI - This exhaust sounds sweet, I also purchased the CAT for it through cyclegear.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L44J56G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Other mods that i'm considering in the future
Stainless Steel braided brake lines, FTECU on the bike flash kit, T-Rex Racing no cut combo.


Bonus - https://i.redd.it/en8vfnpv46u01.jpg

Best bang for your buck is this stuff

Ten whole feet of it. Clear so you can easily see when fuel reaches the carb.

Also, use 1/4" metal hose clamps. Such as these.

Finally, please save yourself a lot of hassle and use a quality in line fuel filter. The best is the Wix 33001

I hope this helps you out! Happy flying

>A throttle body sync sounds quite in depth as well, but I will look into it.

It really isn't too bad, but is made infinitely easier by having the right tools. There are a lot of $5 solutions that folk use, but unless you really know what you're looking for then the majority won't be able to figure it out

I'm a huge fanof this device. It's not cheap, but it makes it super clear how your sync is looking. You can use it on any bike, including if you ever get a 4 cyl.

It's a bit of an investment, but still cheaper than having a shop do it. Plus I loan it out to friends for a 12-pack now, so it'll pay for itself many times over

Murray doesn't make engines, they just assemble and sell whole mowers. My circa ~2005 Murray has a Briggs and Stratton, yours has a Tecumseh.

Tecumseh TVS115-57052E to be exact. You should be able to get what you need with that.

Here's a nice parts diagram:
https://www.jackssmallengines.com/jacks-parts-lookup/manufacturer/tecumseh/4-cycle-vertical/tvs115/tvs115-57052e

And a carburetor, with gaskets:
https://www.amazon.com/632795A-Carburetor-Tecumseh-TVS-100/dp/B00YVW30Z0

I'm not an expert (just a DIYer like you), so maybe you can find just the gaskets elsewhere... but $12 for everything seems like a winner to me. Good luck!

The existing cables were long enough with the risers, but looking back at the order, they were 2" risers:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FAVW9LC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I removed the metal cable guide of the clutch cable, but all original cables still reach fine.

The other item I found to be a great help was a throttle lock to give the throttle hand a break on long trips:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000WJF4HS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Wait, cone filters? I wonder if the carbs have been rejetted to factor that in. If those cones are restricting air then that's why you're running rich. If the jets have been upgraded too large of a size then that's another reason. I'd find out what your stock carb's jet sizes are supposed to be, then I'd use an online calculator or ask a website that sells jets what size you should have given the mods you've got. And compare that with what you actually do have. So you're still gunna have to pull your carbs to check your jet values. You might even have a clogged air circuit in your carb bodies so cleaning is still imperative.

You could try making your own sync tool but if you have too strong of a vacuum then whatever liquid you're using will get sucked in. This is expensive, but a 'cry once buy once tool': http://www.amazon.com/Vacuum-Carburetor-Synchronizer-Carb-Gauge/dp/B004MSJ7E6

So is his buddy, I'm not sure if you need this for your carbs, I need it for mine: http://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-Carburetor-Adjusting-Tool/dp/B001DDH2ZY/ref=pd_bxgy_263_img_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=00QXJ3CH1BBWNM7K2FPZ

You could sync the side carb bodies with a regular screw driver and wrench, but once you move to the center 2 bodies that becomes almost impossible.

Here is a link to your manual that deals with the carburators: http://www.honda4fun.com/pdf_man_officina/pdf_manuali/CB350-400/CB350-400_04.pdf

I would take pictures and notes while doing this. There's not a huge wealth of information for 1972 CB350F carbs unfortunately.

You should register at this forum. Any questions you have they can help you out with: http://forums.sohc4.net/

I'd also pick up this ultrasonic cleaner from harbor freight: http://www.harborfreight.com/25-liter-ultrasonic-cleaner-95563.html Go to the dollar store, dollar general or whatever the cheap store in your area is called and buy a large bottle of LA Awesome and a gallon of diluted water. Stuff makes the dirtiest carbs come out brand new. Maybe be a total scumbag and return the ultrasonic cleaner for a full refund as soon as you're done with it. Should take a day to clean all the parts once your carbs are completely dismantled. Then spray a light hit of WD40 on the metal and polish it off with a paper towel to prevent corrosion.

This is another cool tool to have: http://cdn1.bikebandit-images.com/blog/images/2015/carb-cleaner-kit.jpg If you have an air compressor use a basket ball filling needle to blow all the passageways clean. Or a can of air. This goes without saying but carb cleaner will eat rubber, brake cleaner is almost as strong but safe for rubber.

Random tidbit here is an awesome trick for polishing the float needle seats on a carburator: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zlez_hdoWYk when they're dirty it can cause them to stick.

In closing this is going to be a good amount of work and money (Unless you return everything shamelessly) Rubber consumables on your carbs appear to be float bowl gaskets and a few orings, maybe some rubber fuel lines. Nothing too pricey.

Thanks.

After a few beers...

I pulled the trigger on it as well as a new intake manifold, a gasket, a Keihin carb, (I just bought a carb but could always use a better quality one). A gang of tools. This kit arrived as well as 3 different hi flow air filters due to some order confusion.

I hope all this, when installed and tuned, at least gets me to 38/40mph faster with good throttle response and is reliable. I'm not looking for top end speed so much.

This was just supposed to be something to learn how to 'wrench' on, but lately I've been wanting to fix it up all sporty like and actually use it as transportation.

Most 75 and 76 US spec 400Fs (400F0 and 400F1) have the flat handlebars as well. My 75 has them. Didn't think the US spec got the high handlebars and forward pegs till 77 (CB400F2).

I agree the starter switch is likely the cause of the headlight problems. The current for the headlight actually flows over that switch. Here's a link to a relay kit that will fix that.

Also the yahoo CB400f group has a set of pictures that show you how to repair the switch if its salvageable. You can also find NOS switches on ebay if you look hard enough.

Good Luck on sorting out the issues and getting it back on the road. I have a good deal of work to put into mine as well.

Some more useful CB400F links:

Electronic Ignition kit.

Honda Sohc4 forums

Honda Service Manuals and Parts Lists

3000 mile maintenance:

• Clean all carb passages -- Try this for badly gunked up carbs: Yamalube Carb cleaner
  
  May need to rebuild carbs if jets are badly varnished.
  
  
• Change oil & filter
  
• Change air filter
  
• Change spark plugs
  
• Adjust cam chain
  
• Check and adjust valve clearances -- need .002in feeler gauge
  
• Check and adjust points and timing (or replace with electronic ignition)
  
• Vacuum sync carbs --
  Carb sync tool
  
  
  
  11mm master cylinder thread on sohc4.net.
  
  
  
  
  
  

Seafoam is a stabilizer that can prevent the fuel from clogging the carb jets. But once a jet is clogged, it often requires actual scrubbing with a carb cleaner to break it up. Gasoline can become like solid paint lacquer. It can be cheaper to replace the carb on a scooter than the labor required to clean it. You can find them on Amazon for $20-30 like this one. You may have to know how to tune the new carb when you get it, but often it will work out of the box with the factory jets and settings. The one I listed has good reviews and has verification that it has an adjustable slide pin, which helps for tuning if needed. This carb is for a 150cc GY6 or GY6B.

Cool, thanks. I think I'll use this so I can see bubbles and whatnot, like the small clear section in the factory lines. Would you happen to know if clear line has any major longevity issues compared to regular rubber line?

Carb synching is pretty straightforward, and can be done with or without a carb synch tool. I have a CarbTune Pro as I wanted one that did not use liquid.

Without a carb synch tool, you can do a "bench sync." A bench sync means you remove the carbs and adjust the butterflies manually so they open at exactly the same time. You can accomplish this by either filling the carb (where the butterfly is) with gas / brake clean / etc. and adjusting the adjuster screws so when the throttle actuator BARELY opens, the fluid begins to drop at the same time. Alternately you can do it by eye, or use a thin piece of wire or something similar that's held by the butterfly while the throttle is closed and falls upon opening. The biggest issue you want to address is to get them both to open initially at the exact same time.

A carb tune simply helps you adjust this whilst on the bike w/ the bike running and you can verify things are good at various RPM ranges.

Honestly I just used this kit. Great instructions. Comes with the drill bits necessary to access the air/fuel screw and a bit to port out the slide for better throttle response. FWIW I run a FMF powerbomb with a pro-circuit muffler and it does great.


2008-18 Kawasaki KLR650 KLR 650 6 Sigma Custom Carburetor Carb Stage 1-7 Jet Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006QZFBS4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_G87WBbXQY2NAB

For gas last year I built a extended run system using a 14 gallon caddy. Took the hose off, put a brass fitting, fuel line and some fuel clamps. The you just need a fuel cap like this one which I like because it’s Made in the USA and includes a great magnetic dip stick and funnel. Lastly here is the quick disconnect fitting for the cap.

Fill it up and run all weekend long.

Not sure the years, but any EFI sportster tank. 2010 and up should be safe. The hole should be on the left side of the bottom of the tank if the tank is sitting normally. Carbed tanks have their hole on the right.

Something like this should work:

http://www.amazon.com/Bikers-Choice-EFI-Sportster-Tank/dp/B00JDPVJG2

If you want official, the part number for a 3.3 gallon off of a 2015 '883 is 61348-07, but they're 500 just primed.

Go here: http://www.shopronniesharleydavidson.com/

And click on the parts micro fiche. They don't have '16 48s there yet, but you should be able to use 2015.

Get one of these Acerbis 4.25 gallon gas tanks

Amazon for $209

Here is what it looks like on the bike

It has 2 manual petcocks. I highly recommend getting one. If you are worried about its integrity don't, it is very rugged pretty much bullet proof. Worst situation is if you hit a log just right you can smash off one of the petcocks. But with it's capacity, a trail side fix is good enough to get home, even with a leak. Also its shape helps block wind from your legs making cold days more pleasant.

Is there an o ring on the back of the carb like this replacement one on Amazon? https://www.amazon.com/PANTERRA-100CC-110CC-REPLACEMENT-CARBURETOR/dp/B008ZI5EM8

If so, is it in good condition?


Could be running lean as well, which would be causing you to have too much air.

> Morgan Carbtune Pro

where do you think is the best place to purchase one? does this look right? https://www.amazon.com/CARBTUNE-PRO-4-W-Pouch/dp/B018UTHGPE

For sure man, thank you. The oil seal will be the last thing I check and only if the problem isn't resolved by the carb replacement and a good cleaning and probably a new belt. I'm looking at this kit if you have any input on it.

I have a set coming in for pilot and main. Cannot wait till they get here. If the tune calls for it, definitely going bigger!

Oh, and Here is the Amazon URL

I can't seem to find any airleaks. I've sprayed starter fluid all around where there could possibly be one while the scooter was running and I didn't hear any differences.

​

Can you explain a little more what you mean about the throttle slide being impeded?

​

And this is the carb I bought on Amazon. I have a 49cc IceBear. I still have my old carb, so what should I look at to compare the two to make sure the new one is correctly compatible?

I have an auxiliary fuel tank like this.


Carbed motorcycle gas tanks often have 3 or 4 lines running to/from them depending on whether the petcock is vacuum-operated or not. There's the fuel feed, the vent, the overflow, and on a vacuum-operated petcock, the vacuum line from the carb(s).

To hook up an auxiliary fuel source, you'd plug the vacuum line (if present), hook up the fuel feed into the carbs to the aux tank, and just pretty much ignore the others.

You can buy similar devices online, although most shadetree mechanics I know usually just hack something together. I used to use an abomination I bodged from a mic stand, a water bottle, and an old petcock--and my friends considered that unnecessarily elaborate.

Nice bike yourself! I love the Guerilla exhaust on there. The tires ride really smoothly, although she lags on the turns (as expected). I've found that she resists leaning at first, but once you get into the turn she wants to go over more and more quickly. I stopped noticing it after a few trips.

The tank is a Biker's Choice EFI (Indented Style). I got it for around $200 on Amazon, so you can't beat the price:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JDPVJG2?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00

Edit: the Amazon photo doesn't show the indentation on the tank, but you'll see it in my photos. They also offer another version with smooth sides.

http://www.amazon.com/motorcycle-shop-auxiliary-fuel-tank/dp/B004NV42PQ/

$25 on amazon, also at every online bike parts store

I was going to build something, but the parts to include a cutoff, hanger, hose, etc and make it gas-proof cost more than the real deal.

plus, I got to buy another doodad for the shop!

Auxiliary Gas Fuel Tank
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004NV42PQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_gD3QDbCDVGF4Q


Edit,

For many years my test tank at home for carb work was just a 1qt gear oil bottle upside down, with a coat hanger punched through the sides to make a hanging loop, a hole cut in the bottom of the bottle(now the top) to fill and a clear fuel line pushed onto the gear oil spout.

Here is the carb if you were wondering

i would probably get a carb sync tool and go from there. are the rpms all over the place too?
edit: and how did you tune the carbs?

I'm sure you could do it without the adjuster tool but the tool makes it so incredibly easy. Here's a kit with everything you need for $50:

https://www.amazon.com/P1-Tools-Motorcycle-Synchronizer-Synchronization/dp/B07MJZ1RFB

Also, the vacuum test ports are on the intake runners, not the carbs.

And lastly, why aren't my comments showing up on the main thread? Weird.

Thanks! The problem is that the float bowl is putting pressure on the screw. I can reach the screw, but can't turn it because the bowl prevents it x_x.

I hooked up my gauge to cylinder 1 and no matter where I have the mixture screw the vacuum stays the same. The only time the vacuum changed slightly was when the bike reached operating temperature. I tried adjusting the screw again after this and it maintained a constant vacuum the entire time. No adjustments changed the vacuum - at least not at a level readable by the gauges. :(

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004MSJ7E6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That's the tool I'm using.