Reddit mentions: The best proximity sensors
We found 63 Reddit comments discussing the best proximity sensors. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 30 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.
1. URBEST 8mm Detecting Distance Approach Sensor Inductive Proximity Switch NPN NO DC 6-36V Cylinder Type
- Item Name : Inductive Proximity Switch; Model : LJ18A3-8-Z/BX; Package Qty: 1 Piece Switch
- Wire Type : DC 3 Wire Type (Black, Brown, Blue);Switch Appearance Type : Cylinder Type; Material : Plastic, Alloy;
- Theory : Inductive Sensor; Output Type: NPN NO(Normal Open);Diameter of Head : 18mm;Detecting Distance : 8mm
- Supply Voltage : DC 6-36V;Current Output : 300mA;Detect Object : Iron;
- Operating Temperature : -25C to +55C (Non-freezing Condition);Size : 7 x 3cm/2.8'' x 1.2'' (L*Max. Dia);Cable Length : 103cm / 40.55"
Features:
2. Waterproof Ultrasonic Module JSN-SR04T Water Proof Integrated Distance Measuring Transducer Sensor for Arduino
With a waterproof sealed emitter. This sensor is suitable for outdoor applications such as car reversing sensors, security alarms, industrial inspection, etcWorking voltage:5V, Static current:5mA, Working current: 40mAWorking range: 25cm-4M, Working frequency: 40KHZ, Detecting angle: 70 degreeApplic...
Specs:
Color | Ultrasonic sensor |
Size | JSN-SR04T sensor |
3. Uxcell NPN NO Capacitance Proximity Sensor Switch, DC 6V - 36V/300 mA, 1 mm -10 mm
- Product Name : Capacitive Proximity Switch; Model : LJC18A3-H-Z/BX; Wire Type : DC 3 Wire Type (Brown, Black, Blue);Switch Appearance Type : Cylinder Type
- Theory : Capacitance Sensor; Output Type : NPN NO(Normal Open);Diameter of Head : 18mm;Detecting Distance : 1-10mm
- Detecting Object : Metal or Nonmetal Material; Supply Voltage : DC 6-36V;Current Output : 300mA;Response Frequency : 100Hz
- Operating Temperature : -25 to +65 Celsius (Non-freezing Condition);Size : 7.5 x 3cm / 3"x 1.2"(L*Max. Dia);Cable Length : 120cm/47";External Material : Plastic, Alloy
- Net Weight : 85g;Color : Silver Tone, Yellow, Gray; Package Content : 1 x Capacitive Proximity Switch
Features:
Specs:
Height | 1.181102361 Inches |
Length | 47.24409444 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Weight | 0.1763698096 Pounds |
Width | 1.181102361 Inches |
4. Ultrasonic Module Distance Measuring Transducer Sensor Waterproof DC 5V
- Product Name : Proximity Switch;Model : LJ18A3-8-Z/BX;Type : DC 3 Wire Type (Brown, Blue. Black);Switch Appearance Type : Cylinder Type
- Theory : Induction Sensor;Output Type: NPN NO(Normal Open);Diameter of Head : 16.4mm/ 0.64"
- Detecting Distance : 8mm/ 0.31";Work Voltage : DC 6-36V;Consumption Corrent : Max 300mA
- Size : 6.6 x 1.8cm/ 2.6" x 0.7"(L*Max.D);Cable Length(Approx.) : 115cm/ 45.3";External Material : Plastic, Metal
- Weight : 75g;Color : Black, Blue, Red, Silver Tone;Package Content : 1 x Inductive Proximity Switch,Several Installing Parts
Features:
5. uxcell LJC18A3-B-Z/BX 1-10mm Capacitance Proximity Sensor Switch NPN NO DC 6-36V 300mA
Country of Manufacture: CHINA; Material: Electronic Parts; Net Weight: 108g; Package Content: 1 x Capacitive Proximity SwitchModel: LJC18A3-B-Z/BX; Output Type: NPN NO(Normal Open); Thread Size: 18mmDetecting Distance: 1-10mm (Read description befor purchase); Detecting Object: Metal, Water, Glass,e...
6. Taiss 2PCS M12 4mm Sensing DC 5V NPN NO(Normally Open) 3D Printer LJ12A3-4-Z/BX-5V Cylinder inductive Proximity Sensor Switch Work Voltage 5VDC Special for MCU
Product Name : Inductive Proximity Switch;Model : LJ12A3-4-Z-BX 5V ;Wire Type : 3 Wire Type (Black, Brown, Blue);Switch Appearance Type : Cylinder TypeTheory : Inductive Sensor;Output Type : NPN NO(Normal Open);Thread Diameter : 10.5mm/0.41";Head Diameter : 11.8mm/0.46"Detecting Distance : 4mm;Suppl...
7. DC 6-36V NPN NC 5mm Inductive Proximity Sensor Detection Switch LJ18A3-5-Z/AX
Specs:
Color | Silver Tone, Blue, Black |
8. Saim LJ18A3-8-Z/BX DC6-36V 8mm Tubular Inductive Proximity Sensor Switch Detector NPN
- Product Name : Proximity Switch;Model : LJ18A3-8-Z/BX;Type : DC 3 Wire Type (Brown, Blue. Black);Switch Appearance Type : Cylinder Type
- Theory : Induction Sensor;Output Type: NPN NO(Normal Open);Diameter of Head : 16.4mm/ 0.64"
- Detecting Distance : 8mm/ 0.31";Work Voltage : DC 6-36V;Consumption Corrent : Max 300mA
- Size : 6.6 x 1.8cm/ 2.6" x 0.7"(L*Max.D);Cable Length(Approx.) : 115cm/ 45.3";External Material : Plastic, Metal
- Weight : 75g;Color : Black, Blue, Red, Silver Tone;Package Content : 1 x Inductive Proximity Switch,Several Installing Parts
Features:
Specs:
Number of items | 1 |
9. uxcell 6-36VDC 4mm Detecting Distance PNP NO Inductive Proximity Switch LJ12A3-4-Z/BY
- Product Name : Inductive Proximity Switch;Model : LJ12A3-4-Z/BY;Theory : Inductive Sensor;Wire Type : 3 Wire Type (Brown, Blue, Black)
- Switch Appearance Type : Cylinder Type, Metal Shell;Output Type : PNP NO;Detecting Distance : 4mm(+/-10%);Supply Voltage : DC 6-36V
- Output Current : 300mA;Detect Object : Iron;Diameter : 12mm/0.47"
- Total Size : 60 x 20mm/ 2.4" x 0.8'' (L*Max.D);Cable Length : 1m/39.4'';External Material : Plastic, Metal
- Net Weight : 47g;Main Color : Silver Tone, Yellow, Black;Package Content : 1 x Inductive Proximity Switch
Features:
Specs:
Height | 2.36 Inches |
Length | 0.79 Inches |
Size | 4mm PNP NO |
Width | 0.79 Inches |
10. CTYRZCH NPN NO 3-Wire 4mm Inductive Proximity Sensor Switch DC 10-30V SN04N SN04P SN04Y
- Product Name: Inductive Proximity Switch; Theory: Inductive Type Sensor; Wire Type: DC 3 Wire Type (Brown, Black, Blue).
- Sensing Distance: 4mm; Working Voltage : 10-30V DC.
- Size: 18 x 18 x 36mm/0.7" x 0.7" x 1.4"(W*H*L).
- External Material : ABS Plastic.
- Package Content: 1 x Proximity Sensor Switch, 4 x Screws.
Features:
11. HUABAN 3 Pack KY-022 Infrared IR Sensor Receiver Module Accessories for Arduino
Working voltage: 2.7 ~ 5.5VFrequency: 37.9KHzReceiving angle: 90°Receiving range: 18mDimension: 6.4 x 7.4 x 5.1mm
12. SMAKN Dc 3-wire 6-36v 300ma 2mm PNP No Approach Sensor Proximity Switch LJ8A3-2-Z/BY
Product Name : Inductive Proximity Switch;Model : LJ8A3-2-Z/BY ;Theory : Inductive Sensor;Wire Type : DC 3 Wire Type (Black, Brown, Blue)Switch Appearance Type : Cylinder Type, Metal Shell;Output Type : PNP NO(Normal Open);Diameter of Column Sensor : 8mm;Detecting Distance : 2mmSupply Voltage : DC 6...
13. TOOGOO(R) HC-SR04 Distance Measuring Transducer Sensor Ultrasonic Module for Arduino
- Product Name : Ultrasonic Distance Sensor Module;Model : HC-SR04;Working Voltage : DC 5V
- Static Current(Max) : 2mA;Electrical Level Output : 5V High
- Detection Distance : 2cm-450cm;High Precision: : 2mm
- Total Size : 44.5 x 27 x 17mm/ 1.8" x 1.1" x 0.67" (L*W*T);External Material : Metal, Electronic Components
- Weight : 9g;Package Content : 1 x Ultrasonic Distance Sensor Module
Features:
14. uxcell 4mm Inductive Proximity Sensor Switch Detector NPN NC DC 5-30V 200mA 3-Wire SN04-N2 for 3D Printer Probe Bed Leveling,MCU Board
【Specification】: Detecting Distance: 4mm; Supply Voltage: DC 5-30V; Current Output : 200mA; Detect Object : Iron.Wire Type: DC 3 Wire Type (Black, Brown, Blue); Switch Appearance Type: Rectangular Type; Theory: Inductive Sensor; Output Type: NPN NC(Nomal Close).【Sensitive Detection】: ABS mat...
Specs:
Height | 0.79 Inches |
Length | 5.51 Inches |
Width | 3.94 Inches |
15. RGBSIGHT PIR Motion Sensor Switch LED Dimmer Long Distance Time Adjustable Small Sensor Switch for 5V 12V 24V 5A DIY LED Lighting (DC 5V-24V 5A Sensor Switch)
Operating voltage:DC 5V-24VLoad current :5ADelay time: Default setting 15 sec (2~360 Seconds is adjustable)Detecting range:≤ 120 degrees cone angle, ≤5M-7MSize:50*40*22.5 mm
16. Gowoops 5PCS HC-SR04 Ultrasonic Module Distance Measuring Transducer Sensor for Arduino
Use IO port TRIG to trigger ranging. It needs 10 us high level signal at least.Module can send 8 pro 40 kz square wave automatically, and will test if there is any signal returned.If there is signal returned, output one high level signal via IO port ECHO. The duration of the high level signal is the...
Specs:
Color | Blue |
17. Balance World Inc 10 x Ultrasonic Module HC-SR04 Distance Measuring Transducer Sensor for Arduino
- ship From Balance world
- 10 pcs per shipment
- Detection distance: 2cm-450cm
- More description on product detail
Features:
18. ELEGOO 5PCS HC-SR04 Ultrasonic Module Distance Sensor for Arduino UNO MEGA2560 Nano Robot XBee ZigBee
- Ultrasonic hc-sr04 distance measuring transducer sensor
- HC-SR04 consists of ultrasonic transmitter, receiver, and control circuit. When trigged it sends out a series of 40KHz ultrasonic pulses and receives echo from an object.
- ~Power supply: 5V DC; quiescent current: less than 2mA; effectual angle: less than 15°; distance: 2cm500cm; resolution: 0. 3 cm~
- Package Content: 5pcs HC-SR04 with a little gift
Features:
Specs:
Color | Bule |
Height | 1.18 Inches |
Length | 0.59 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Release date | August 2017 |
Weight | 0.12 Pounds |
Width | 1.77 Inches |
19. Sensor Switch CMR 9 Contractor Select Standard Range Passive Infrared Ceiling Mount Occupancy Sensor White
- Passive Infrared (PIR) occupancy detection
- Self-contained relay (no power pack needed)
- Enjoy the flexibility and convenience of programming sensor settings with your smartphone using the Sensor Switch Mobile App through camera flash programming
- Energy Management Equipment, UL916 (E167435), RoHS compliant
- 360 degree coverage
Features:
Specs:
Color | White |
Height | 4.5 Inches |
Length | 4.5 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 12 Foot Radius |
Weight | 0.3527396192 Pounds |
Width | 1.25 Inches |
20. uxcell LJ18A3-8-Z/BX 8mm Approach Sensor Inductive Proximity NPN NO Switch DC 6-36V
- Product Name : Inductive Proximity Switch;Model : LJ18A3-8-Z/BX;Wire Type : DC 3 Wire Type (Black,
- Theory : Inductive Sensor;Output Type: PNP NO(Normal Open);Diameter of Head : 18mm;Detecting
- Supply Voltage : DC 6-36V;Current Output : 300mA;Detect Object : Iron
- Operating Temperature : -25C to +55C (Non-freezing Condition);Size : 7 x 3cm/2.8'' x 1.2'' (L*Max.
- External Material : Plastic, Alloy;Net Weight : 80g;Package Content : 1 x Inductive Proximity Switch
Features:
Specs:
Height | 1.18 Inches |
Length | 7.48 Inches |
Size | 7 x 3cm/2.8'' x 1.2'' (L*Max. Dia) |
Width | 5.91 Inches |
🎓 Reddit experts on proximity sensors
The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where proximity sensors are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
I actually just ordered this inductive sensor from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M1777XK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 . In the reviews someone used it with success on our machine and said it was a significant improvement. Looks like an easy install by cutting and splicing the wires near the sensor. Seems like many people have success with this.
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I'll check out the tinymonsters firmware, that also seems to be pretty popular. Is there any functional difference? Or is it just better behind the scenes?
Everything he said is spot on. I have 4 cheap Chinese printers and those are all the recommended upgrades regardless of the brand.
I recommend this power supply. It can provide 50% more power and has a cooling fan.
These mosfets have worked very well for me and lowered bed heating times significantly as well as make your printer a lot safer.
Personally I haven't had any issues with the bed connector, but maybe some epoxy or hot glue would keep the wires from moving around too much.
One of the best upgrades I did was to flash Marlin onto the board as the stock firmware is kind of crappy.
This also allows the use of a Inductive proximity sensor which makes leveling the bed significantly easier.
The bearings he recommended, the Drylin ones, will make the movements of your printer a little smoother and a lot quieter.
The belts stretch. The ones from China are rarely reinforced. I'm lazy so i just tighten them every so often. But it would be worthwhile to just start with the higher end reinforced belts.
That aside, once your printer is up and running and somewhat calibrated, head over to thingiverse and search for your printer. There are thousands of upgrades available.
Good luck!
Man, you're on a whole other level, that project is amazing though. I did ponder on going for a cheaper probe like you did. One thought I had was to maybe get two and install the other one a few weeks after installing the first, both to verify data integrity between them as well as to have sort of a failover when the first one inevitably conks out. So you can essentially just get any ol probe? I liked the pressure sensor you used as well, thought about going that route as well but I picked up a waterproof ultra sonic sensor instead. It was ~$15 so figured it can't hurt to mess around/ have fun with if it doesn't work as well as I expect. I can definitely use this project as reference on some things though. Thanks very much for the links.
I've spliced multiple accessories including led lighting into the 12v terminals of the cr-10x without any issue. Currently I'm printing with my bed at 65 degrees and print head at 210. I'm in the US on 120v drawing ~(2.6 after heating -3.15 amps during heating)/~220 watts. You can easily power multiple devices off the 12v terminals without any issue.
The readings above include includes:
12v Noctua Fan - https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-Cooling-Blades-Bearing-NF-A4x10/dp/B009NQLT0M
12v Proximity Sensor (ABL) - https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-LJC18A3-B-Z-1-10mm-Capacitance-Proximity/dp/B0756XDQM4
5v Lighting - Partial strip - https://www.amazon.com/Lighting-Control-Findyouled-Backlight-Monitors/dp/B01M28RKH5
I'm using a mix between Marlin 1.1.8 and the custom firmware provided by www.th3dstudio.com. (If your considering doing ABL and your not super familiar with electronics I highly recommend th3dstudio.com It's important to support the engineers/developers that bring the amazing improvements in 3d printing to the masses)
I usually use octoprint with pi3 or pi zero but for these readings I had nothing plugged into the micro usb port.
If you have any questions or need some more information about how I do my wiring I would be happy to help!
Will do. So far, things have been pretty straight forward. Marlin config has taken a bit, I will post the final Configuration.h and Configuration_adv.h when I'm done.
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The biggest challenge was the Z-Probe. The logic on the endstops for the SKR is 5V, but the printrboard and probe are 12V. There was talk on the interwebs about solving the issue with a voltage divider with resistors - but that maxed out my electronics knowledge. A 5V inductive sensor was only $15 (for 2) so I bought them and it works perfectly and reliably.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073XD44CW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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I'm down to calibrating everything, and I'll do a final update once it's all done. My first print will be a board tray that can be fit up inside the metal plus underbelly. Right now, everything is wire spaghetti behind the printer.
Let me see if I can organize it into something reasonably understandable.
First up, the controller: https://i.redd.it/zmxxkfwqy9g31.jpg
Stuffed in that box are:
For the valves, I'm using a 1" Motorized Ball valve for the outlet (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06X9B4P45) and a 1/2" Motorized Ball valve for the inlet (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06X99PHJJ)
Each of the relay modules control one of the ball valves. The valves are 2 wire, reverse polarity and operate on anywhere from 9 to 24v, so I just use battery voltage. In their normal closed position, both relays on the board are set to ground. When I want to open/close the valve, I switch the appropriate relay on the module to on (+12v).
The ultrasonic sensor is set at the top of the tank and measures the distance to the surface. It's not the cleanest of signals, but it will give a rough idea on where the water level is in relation to the top of the tank. You can then transform that into a rough percentage.
I use ESPHome on the NodeMCU, just for simplicity. The code is pretty long, but not very complicated. Just a bunch of different switches to abstract the base functionality into something cleaner for Home Assistant. I'll clean it up and put it in a github account or something like that and link it here later, likewise with the Home Assistant code that I use to run it.
an $8 inductive sensor also just plugs into the z-endstop, but you would have to solder the connection on yourself. https://www.amazon.com/URBEST-Detecting-Distance-Inductive-Proximity/dp/B01M1777XK
But if you want something plug and play get a BL Touch: https://www.amazon.com/BLTouch-Leveling-Sensor-Premium-Printer/dp/B01FFV2TOS
with all of these options you have to update and flash the firmware to enable and allow autoleveling.
This was actually fairly easy to setup and only cost about $8 and 30 mins of my time.
First you need to order an Inductive Sensor:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008FZC8F2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Then I printed out a new sensor mount and glued it right next to my hot end.
Then in the Marlin Firmware, I enabled the auto bed leveling code and flashed the Arduino board. Next I set the boundaries of my bed and where I wanted the sensor to check. All you have to do is twist the sensor up and down to adjust how close the hot end is to the bed. After the sensor was mounted, you just plug the brown wire to +12v and the blue wire to ground. The Black wire goes to the signal pin on the z-min endstop. Supposedly you need to solder in some resistors inline (the youtube video below explains it) to lower the voltage being sent to the ramps, but mine works fine without the modification.
Now I never have to worry about the nozzle being to close / too far from the bed...
Here's a great youtube video that helped me get it all setup:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EcGFLwj0pnA
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008MU1GEY/ref=oh_details_o08_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Can't vouch that it's the same, but there is a lot of good info additionally in this thread you should check out including an inductive sensor thawkins believes is better suited to the task. If I was willing to ditch the glass bed I'd be going this route I believe.
http://www.printrbottalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=113&t=6812
I'll start with the non-printable mods:
Replaced the PSU with a 750w ATX PSU I had lying around.
If you do this, you will more than likely need to add a power resistor to the 5v rail. I also removed all the original wires and connectors from the PSU and resoldered just what I needed with better rated wire.
Glass bed on top of the aluminum. I just went to Lowes and got them to cut a few pieces of single pane glass.
Mosfet circuit for the heated bed:
https://www.amazon.com/BIQU-Power-Module-Expansion-Printer/dp/B01HEQVQAK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493092441&sr=8-1&keywords=3d+printer+mosfet
Upgraded Y Carriage:
https://reprapchampion.com/collections/heated-beds/products/anodized-aluminum-y-carriage-plate-upgrade-v2-for-prusa-i3-reprap-3d-printer
New Belts:
https://reprapchampion.com/collections/linear-motion/products/10-meters-6mm-width-gt2-timing-belt-for-reprap-delta-3d-printer-kossel-rostock
Geared Pulley to replace the smooth one:
https://reprapchampion.com/collections/linear-motion/products/3d-printer-idler-pulley-aluminum-dual-ball-bearing-3mm-bore-16-teeth-gt2-belt
Upgraded Heated Bed, this bed heats up slow and I also lost a little bit of build volume. I plan on getting something better here very soon. Once it's up to temp it works well though.
https://reprapchampion.com/collections/heated-beds/products/new-improved-mk3-aluminum-reprap-3d-printer-prusa-i3-heated-hot-bed-build-plate
Inductive Sensor for auto level:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LWNCY4C/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Copper Tape Because the inductive sensor can't see glass I put this on the bottom side.
https://www.amazon.com/Tapes-Master-10ft-Copper-Foil/dp/B00Z8MCJW2/ref=sr_1_6?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1493092625&sr=1-6&keywords=copper+tape
Firmware:
To get the sensor working, you'll have to change the firmware unless you only want to use it as a limit switch. The only option that i'm aware of is Skynet which is based on Marlin and works fairly well. You can find that on their facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/skynet3ddevelopment/
Blue LED Extruder Fan (because the original broke). I don't remember where I got this from. I'd like to find an RGB one! ha
I added a bunch of WS2812 LEDs controlled by an Arduino at the moment, I am using OctoPi so eventually i'll have that control them but at this point they're set to UV colors because it looks cool.
Printed mods:
Frame braces:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1857991
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1430727
Y Carriage Risers:
The Y carriage sits too low and will smack into the Y axis motor so I made these risers to solve that:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2226564
Y Belt Clamp: You'll need one for the new carriage, but I cannot find the one that I used.
Auto level bracket: Though I only have PLA and it kept warping so I made a metal version of it:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2006986
Anti-Z Wobble I modified this but no longer have the file, I also printed a cylinder to wedge into the hole above the lead screws.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1858435
Bearings I used:
https://www.amazon.com/Beerings-Malt-ABEC-Skateboard-Bearings/dp/B005NFXHQG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1493094188&sr=8-2&keywords=beerings
Belt Tentioners I can't remember which ones I finally used.
I think this is everything. If I remember something else i'll post it.
On my machine, I have added the following upgrades:
I hope this helps!
Certain sensors, like the HC-SR04 distance sensor, require very reliable, low-latency real-time processing in order to measure the echo time. Raspbian isn't a real-time OS out of the box, so measuring sound wave travel time isn't very practical without some hackery.
I personally have a distance sensor pointed at my sump tank to measure water level, and I have that hooked up to an Arduino that buffers data from sensors, and in turn I have that hooked up to a Raspberry Pi.
Also, as /u/icarus901 mentioned about sensors being consumables, definitely buy sensors in bulk.
As for the controllers themselves, I have them in Ziploc bags because I'm cheap :P
Alternative solution: https://www.amazon.com/Uxcell-Capacitance-Proximity-Sensor-Switch/dp/B00542U3M4
Doesn't require you to switch out your bed, works just fine with glass, PCB, aluminum, steel, your hand, whatever.
If you do end up needing a replacement. This is the one I got. Works great and not too bad of a price. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DUYSWXK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You can replace the sensor. This is courtesy of Jason Cook; sign up on facebook for the CR-10S user group and you can read his entire post there!
"Having trouble leveling the CR-10s Pro? Is the leveling sensor not repeatable and leaving you with bad first layers? Here is my solution:
URBEST 8mm Detecting Distance... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M1777XK…
The probe is extremely repeatable and does not seem to be significantly affected by temperature or humidity. I have mine set so that it detects the bed 2mm high and then the tiny Machines firmware remembers the offset on a power cycle. It nails the first layer every time and when probing the bed, the nozzle is high enough that it does not leave plastic dots on the bed. I was always having to tinker with the old sensor settings and had a lot of bad prints. Now, I just hit print and it works perfectly every time.
I hope this helps. I love printing with my CR-10S Pro now."
Yes, that looks like an IR sensor.
https://www.amazon.com/KY-022-Infrared-Receiver-Accessories-Arduino/dp/B07869GP74/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=1838+ir+sensor&qid=1558299912&s=gateway&sprefix=1838+ir&sr=8-3
I use a LJ18A3-8-Z/BX sensor and used this guide to set it up. I made a custom bracket that fits onto my custom entruder carriage. I find myself having to adjust the z-offset regularly and I'm not sure why. I don't know if my sensor is moving in the bracket or if the sensor is just that sensitive to temperature/humidity. Overall I like it and I think it is better than manually leveling the bed.
Using this sensor:https://www.amazon.com/LJ18A3-8-Z-Approach-Sensor-Inductive-Proximity/dp/B008FZC8F2#Ask and I wired it like this but with a diode instead of the optocoupler.https://cdn.instructables.com/FBL/6JNV/IXGFWVQM/FBL6JNVIXGFWVQM.MEDIUM.jpg Z Probe wiring is like this but without the 5v power because mine is attached to 12v. https://3dprint.wiki/_detail/reprap/anet/a8/improvement/wiring.png?id=reprap%3Aanet%3Aa8%3Aimprovement%3Aautobedleveling
wow the last one looks just like what i was looking for. buuuuut they don't ship to germany :/
i will do some testing with this one and the neverwet spray
Do you think something like this would be okay? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CWR234L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_FiGJBbMH1XX65
Here's everything I purchased:
I think an HC-SR04 ultrasonic sensor would work just fine, and it already looks like a set of eyes.
It's not difficult coding, at all, with some reaserch you can find the single little pieces of your project online, like: "how to make a light sensor work"+"switch on sensor activation". with like 2$ you can get an ultrasonic module, wich you can put near the doors, to activate the lights(with an && on the light sensor: eg. if sensor is activated&&its night, then light goes on). The coding part is actually the easyest part, since it's harder to set everything up in the garage with the wiring(i have no exp on that front, sorry).
this is an example of ultrasonic sensor: http://www.amazon.com/Ultrasonic-HC-SR04-Distance-Measuring-Transducer/dp/B00XLK3MWE/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1450195583&sr=8-5&keywords=arduino+ultrasound+sensor
What about the 24v? Are there any considerations for the increased voltage on the Tornado? Is there a picture somewhere I can follow so I don't fry anything on the MKS?
And how about this sensor, bueno?
Like this, or this?
Just read you are using 12v to power the sensor. I have mine powered through the 5v+ sensor pin. I would not try this with the 12v unless you want to fry the board.
This is the sensor I believe i am using https://www.amazon.com/SMAKN-3-wire-Approach-Proximity-LJ8A3-2-Z/dp/B00NIAQLK2/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=inductive+sensor&qid=1570131253&s=gateway&sr=8-9
works fine on 5v
Use a capacitance sensor. Same price but senses anything. 1-10 mm adjustable sensor is $7.35 on Amazon. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00542U3M4?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00
Here you go, if 2mm detection distance is okay. Prime shipping~
I had done something similar. DIY stuff - JSN SR04T waterproof ultrasonic range finder along with a nodeMCU (ESP8266) . The sensor is fixed on top of the barrel and twice a day it measures the distance to the water level. You should Mount it about 20cm above the max. water level because that is the minimum distance it can measure. You will need microcontroller to calculate waterlevel. Here is an arduino tutorial to get you started.
Occupancy Sensor.
Here is one on Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/Sensor-Switch-CMR-Contractor-Occupancy/dp/B004QXKDYK
The circuit, washers, and fabric are decidedly more expensive than this, when all's said and done. They're somewhat similar if you're thinking in terms of just the actual hardware, but paying the employees that make sure the washers themselves are level first, and to assemble the more complicated system first is also a factor. This literally just screws into place.
I am also using a Anet. the A8[ with this Sensor.] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008FZC8F2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
I was also [following this video] (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G-TwWfUzXpc) But several things didn't work right.
I shall try what you did right now and see what happens.
Amateur here, but I've used https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B008FZC8F2 for my 3d printer. This won't work?
It's an inductive sensor.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008FZC8F2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The ones I use claim a working range up to 4m. I've never tested them to that kind of range before though
https://www.amazon.com/Waterproof-Ultrasonic-JSN-SR04T-Integrated-Transducer/dp/B07FQCNXPP/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=waterproof+ultrasonic+sensor&qid=1573248470&sprefix=waterproof+ultraso&sr=8-3
Occupancy sensor to turn off the lights or control HVAC
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004QXKDYK/ref=asc_df_B004QXKDYK5247486
This is for the Arduino starter kit.
This is just the distance sensor.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M1777XK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I checked the voltage and it seems to be right.
4.5v when open
0v when closed
https://www.amazon.com/Elegoo-HC-SR04-Ultrasonic-Distance-MEGA2560/dp/B01COSN7O6/ref=pd_sim_147_4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=TPBMW2PJ392W4FE64FX1
these should work too, if you find a way to make them more resistible.
I had to buy this bed sensor before I got a good level.
URBEST 8mm Detecting Distance Approach Sensor Inductive Proximity Switch NPN NO DC 6-36V Cylinder Type https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M1777XK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_XcBtDbJDC8Y2P
No problem!
This
Look it up on thingiverse, too. Tons of mounts for it that you can print out. You'll see them on pretty much everyone's head.
Not quite. The board I have (which is fairly common) has two pins for trigger/echo. I've wired them together. So I write HIGH out then LOW then read it back. I presume writing to the ECHO pin does nothing.
Indeed on my board it works just fine. I can read distances and actually compare them to a ruler to get somewhat precise results. I mean even with two wires it's hardly a super precise mechanism anyways.
edit: To add... the boards I'm talking about are things like this. It has a speaker and a mic with a little control circuit to trigger the echo pin only if the signal is received. The trigger comes in one pin and the echo leaves another. In my "1 wire" setup they're simply wired together. So I'm setting the "echo" pin high but that doesn't appear to do anything negative.
I'm using the LJ18A3-8-Z/BX that was suggested in this Instructables. The problem I'm having is with the placement of the sensor. I first designed this bracket that mounts on the X carriage above where the filament cooling fan mounts. It fits nicely and is fairly close to the nozzle. The problem is if the nozzle contacts the bed first the whole carriage rotates up. This rotation cause the sensor to lift further away from the bed, which drive the nozzle lower... I'm going to design a new bracket that will attach to the linear bearing block. This will have the opposite effect if the nozzle impacts the bed. The sensor will be driven lower which should trigger the sensor sooner.
EDIT: Also, since it is an inductive sensor the 8 mm range is for steel/iron. The range for aluminum is about 4.5 mm.
I have my blue wired to the negative(-) on the board, and the black goes into where the red is on the end stop.
Brown (NPN) 6-36v
Blue - Negative on the Anet board where 12v comes in for main power.
Black - wired into the red plug on the Z endstop.
My probe: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008FZC8F2