Reddit mentions: The best rc battery chargers

Alright so I just want to start this off by saying that I beat my vehicles. These motors get slammed on pavement and run through water and mud. Have realistic expectations, if your looking for maximum power, pushing things to the limit, I'd recommend going with a name brand.

The Leopard and Tacon motor I can't recommend enough for vehicles that they are appropriate for. I have ran these for years. I've jumped houses, and had some pretty bad wrecks and they have been absolutely fine. Bearings are still OK too. I haven't had a ton of time with the others, around 6 months to a year.

ESC:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Y091LYQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_V7VBybQSB9DFE

This thing works OK. The only annoying thing is that the initial punch from a standstill. If your moving at ALL, it will give full power. It's just that initial startup that is soft.

Some of it can be taken out with a programmer, but I actually kinda like it to save the driveline in my converted tmaxx.

I am using it in about 3 vehicles right now. It works.

Motors:

GoolRC 3650 4Poles 5200KV Brushless Motor for 1/10 RC Car Boat https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WQYB38G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ucWByb9T5J9ZV

GoolRC 3650 3100KV 4 Poles Sensorless Brushless Motor for 1/10 RC Car https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017OQIM0C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ReWByb948JHZF

This motor has so far been a great one. I currently have it in a rustler with the above ESC(also tried with a castle sidewinder), and it is plenty fast. Gets a bit warm, but there is a 3100kv version that would be better for 3s and a larger vehicle



GoolRC 3670 4Poles 2150KV Brushless Motor for RC 1/8 1/10 off-road Monster Car Boat https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WQYBCM8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_JfWBybR1ND25J

This motor has been a beast in my slash 4x4. I run it on 3s and it never complains. I don't have much other experience with 3670 motors, but it has held up to about 15 3s runs so far. I don't drive my trucks nicely either. (Using a castle sidewinder)


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EOLTMX2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_RiWBybRV8GVSV

This motor setup has been amazing. I bought it several years ago, and ran it in my evader for a few years, then moved it to my TC4, and then moved it to my B4. Really good setup for a lighter vehicle on 2s. Just make sure you watch your temps, and gear accordingly. You can check out ultimate rcs video on it, or I have a video called Evader Film I put out a few years ago. Really though, this motor really punches above its weight.

Stay away from the blue 4370kv hobbywing motor that looks similar. I bought it expecting it to perform the same, but it's not nearly as punchy as the leopard.


http://www.hobbypartz.com/96m24-car-3650-3500.html

If you can find this motor in stock, it's a good choice as well for a medium weight vehicle. I beat on it for about a year in my 4x4, mixed use of 2s and 3s. It always ran warm, but never gave up. I currently switched it into my converted tmaxx now that I upgraded my slash 4x4 to that 3670. It would seem like a good replacement for a velineon motor if you had to find a cheap equivalent.


http://m.ebay.com/itm/322166186193?_mwBanner=1

Currently running this motor in my race B4. It works fine. Slow, but it's a 21.5t. doesn't get too warm even when I gear it up substantially.

Wouldn't recommend for bashing, the open design and it's power would leave slot to be desired.



Chargers:

Crazepony iSDT SC-608 Smart Battery Balance Charger DC 150W 8A https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LZ8MBN5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_aBWBybYMKHVW5

I recently upgraded to the 500w version of this charger, I really like it!



http://m.ebay.com/itm/252338832138

I used a charger similar to this for several years, never had a problem. Still works great.

That said, beware the cheap blue IMAX b6 clones, it really is a mixed bag on what you get. I ordered 5 for some battery testing and 2 of them would've overcharged a lipo I was testing them with.

Servo:

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/rotorstartm-rs-550mgc-hv-helicopter-cyclic-bb-ds-mg-servo-11-25kg-0-072sec-59g.html

So far the fastest reasonably priced servo ive found is this guy. Its very fast on 6v, and has a modest amount of torque as well. I really like them for the price.

I got an Eachine 250 racer about a month ago. It has been a lot of fun, but there are a lot of details. My next racer will probably be a smaller/lighter 180 frame.

For FPV goggles I have three ideas. One, is get the status quo Fatshark goggles at whatever level you can afford. Two, get the HeadPlay HD goggles I got. Three, get the Avegant Glyph, which has the really nice feature of letting you pop them up and down without a band. I do really like my HeadPlay HDs, but they are big and bulky. I haven't perfected how to adjust the straps to get them to stay on my head well.

Arms, managed to break one without breaking a prop.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B016Y5U1JO/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Capacitors, they pop off very easily. I lost a capacitor at the same time I broke an arm. Or a hot glue gun, I Highly recommend putting hot glue over the caps next to each arm to help avoid the loss in the first place. You want a low temperature hot glue gun to not melt any plastic or traces. I consider the capacitor issue a design defect, but you can work around it with hot glue. The original revision seems to have lacked the capacitors, from pictures I have seen online.

Capacitors for Eachine 250 racer:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00W8YYMZA/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Youtube video exampling how to solder them:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sLYVZUpL0K0

Get a Taranis X9D Plus. It is a great transmitter. Also get a X4R-SB receiver, and use SBUS. The D4R won't let you control the lights too, because it can't do PPM and PWM at the same time. You can control them with the X4R-SB, SBUS+PWM. SBUS has great latency, 5-10ms. I was recently talking to a sponsored racer who told me that PPM, which is supposed to be 27ms with the D4R, is really more like 100ms. It averages the four last frames together. This link includes a case and X8R, which I think will work as well as the X4R, but you should do the research. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B014IYSXL6/ref=mp_s_a_1_5

To do SBUS+PWM, requires a special bind procedure. You want channels 1-8 as SBUS, and 9+ as PWM. The most relevant part is "jump S1&S3: SBUS, 9, 10, 11 or jump S2&S3: SBUS, 9, 10, 11 (No telemetry)" Here is a link that talks about it.

http://www.frsky-rc.com/BBS/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=6793

Small tie wraps like the ones already on the arms to hold the ESCs. You break an arm, and you will need to replace the tie wrap.

Soldering iron, solder, etc, because you have to desolder the ESC from the motor to replace an arm, and then resolder it.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BRC2XU/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Qtips and rubbing alcohol for cleaning. Mix the alcohol 50/50 with water. The flying field was muddy after lots of rain.

Carrying case of some kind. You don't want it banged around in transport, and same with the transmitter. It is best to get the X9D with the case, because people price gouge on the case stand alone.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01ABQS7YI/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Batteries, you can burn through them very fast. But watch out for their height. I bought some of the new "Graphene" 4S batteries, and they are really too tall to fit. Some people remove the back LEDs to make battery installation easier.

Battery charging/carrying bags to help with uncontrolled fires started by batteries. I have two, one for charging, and one for carrying.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005HTH78W/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A battery charger if you want to use 4S batteries. The included charger is 2S/3S only. I have a Hi-tech X1 which will only charge one battery at a time. You can also get the X4 which will do four at once.

Battery charger for 4S batteries:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005LH3392/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

XT60 banana plug cable for charging with the above charger:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00XBSBYCG/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A V shaped antenna mount to get the receiver antennas up in the air. When over head the carbon fiber body blocks the signal well.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00WV04P62/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A voltage monitor so you know to land when your battery voltage is low. The video signal includes the battery voltage as part of the OSD, but I prefer LoS while learning to fly. It lets me keep an eye on where I am in relation to trees. On the other hand I have yet to find a good place to mount a voltage monitor. With the length of the balance cable on batteries you are likely going to need a balance cable extension for 3S and another for 4S.

Voltage monitor:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00EXPPF80/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

3S balance cable extension:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00XP4IO88/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

4S balance cable extension:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JBP1RGG/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Double sided tape to mount things on the top of the body, like the antenna mount and receiver.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009NP1JQC/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Small x-acto knife to help remove the double sided tape.

Electrical tape to tape down wires for lights and receiver.

Size 2.0 hex wrench for the frame screws. It will be needed to replace arms.

Scale that can measure grams. You want to knowing and control weight.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B010HKEDPK/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Sunglasses to avoid problems seeing on sunny days. Lets say you are flying LoS, and look into the direction of the sun. You can't see the quad well enough to control it, because of glare from the sun.

ESC flashing adapters to change/upgrade the firmware. I am not sure these are the right ones for the ESCs on the Eachine. I think they are, but I haven't tried it yet.

Atmel socket flashing tool:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00V2W467I/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Atmel USB programmer:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0051SRZWC/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

USB cable to use with transmitters and simulators. It is best to learn the basics in a sim, instead of replacing lots of parts.

USB cable for simulators:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DFDTU9G/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Old post of mine on learning in a simulator:

https://www.reddit.com/r/Multicopter/comments/3zr8o0/cheap_fpv_acro_simulator_with_real_transmitters/

Be sure to set a fail-safe, which is very easy with the Taranis. I had a fly away with my first Eachine, because of a defective Spektrum DX6 and lack of fail-safe. After that I switched to the Taranis, which doesn't cost much more and has way more capacity.

For being tipsy and full of turkey, you didn't do too bad on those purchases! The 65S Lite and the 800D are both good products for the price. The Beta65S Lite is also a really good flying Whoop out of the box, and can rip when you upgrade the firmware down the line.

The 65S comes with the "stock" version of Silverware. Eventually, you want to upgrade that Beta65S Lite to NFE Silverware. Do that that, you need an STLINK programming tool. Personally, if you've never flown before, I'd wait on doing the upgrade though. NFE Silverware rocks, but it's pretty aggressive. The default Silverware on the 65S Lite is better tuned for a beginner. If you want to program the board, just look at the YouTube video on flashing the 65S Lite to NFE Silverware - it goes through all the steps. The programming pads are tiny, so I ended up just stealing some leftover legs from resistors and shoving those in the pads and then into the connector to the programmer. It wasn't pretty, but it worked.

You definitely want a good radio - the QX7 is probably the better option. They're more expensive on Amazon than through another retailer. I like RaceDayQuads as the prices are good and the shipping is very fast. For the Bayang protocol, you just need a cheap multiprotocol module. The iRange is very good, but expensive. Personally, this cheap one works just fine even though it's fairly short range. BETAFPV has a slightly cheaper and much longer range one, but it can potentially bend the pins on your radio, so I don't really recommend it until that gets fixed. Figure spending about $150 for your radio gear, more if you get a better battery for your radio. (It comes with an attachment for AAs, but it will eat those batteries annoyingly quick.)

The 300mAh battery should work on the 65S Lite - although they are REALLY fast the first 30 seconds or so. I like them, but they might be a bit much for a beginner.

For a charger, there's a bunch of 1S battery chargers out there, most of which are the same design. You also need some power supply to it, but those are super cheap.

For batteries, there are plenty of options. I fly BETAFPV 260mAh for my primary battery, mainly because they come in packs of 8. The 300mAh ones give very long flight times, but they are pretty aggressive. GNB batteries are some of the best, but they are physically longer than other batteries. Crazepony 260 HV batteries are cheap and work well enough. Just remember that you need the PH2.0/PowerWhoop connector instead of the smaller JST 1.25 connector.

For the VTX, you can either keep that as a spare, or mount that to your truck. I doubt it has the right connection to plug right into your whoop batteries, but you can get a PH2.0 pigtail and solder that on to the camera power wires. That will let you connect right to your main flight batteries.

​

The Gens Ace battery I bought is a 2s 5000mah 50c. I'm not a lipo expert but I have had different lipos with different c ratings. Im not sure what impact it has on the battery. But don't worry about it. I would try to get something between 20 and 50c, you should be fine.

And yes, you will need a charger. When I bought my first lipo I almost made the mistake by charging it with the stock wall charger

Here are some links to Amazon. I have owned all these battery's and charger

This is my Gens Ace lipo, just bought it a week ago. Seems fine:

Traxxas 5000mAh 7.4V 2S 50C LiPo Battery Pack by Gens ace https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JCS7QPC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_ruiTVGqT7plCC

This is my venom lipo. Great brand, just pretty expensive:

Venom 25C 2S 5000mAh 7.4V Hard Case LiPo Battery with Universal Plug (EC3/Deans/Traxxas/Tamiya) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004YNQXGO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_jf7DybTY2S501

This is my charger. Great charger, kinda out dated but works fine:

HiTec 44165 X1 AC Plus Single Port 6 Amp AC/DC Charger (NiCd/NiMH/LiPo) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005LH3392/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_og7DybJFYKT6C

I would also recommend getting a lipo bag. Lipo batteries tend to do catch on fire, but none of mine have. I would still get one just in case. Just out your battery in it when you charge it and store it. Here's the link for one:

Generic CoBean Silver Large Size Lipo Battery Guard Sleeve/Bag for Charge & Storage https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HTH78W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_4h7DybR76NC3S

Other than that, post when you get your battery and charger so we can help you out on setting everything up. Just make sure you get a 2s. 3s is crazy. Also if your going to be driving on the street, make sure you got a pair of road tires because the battery will tear up your off road tires. Other than that, have fun!

Hey

Disclaimer: I do not own a nano cp s nor a dx6i, and english is my second language so…

I did a bit of research about collective pitch heli, so I might be able to answer some of your questions so:

First, Single transmitter versus AR610 receiver: the one with the AR610 receiver, it's if you want to use it in boat/planes/car or even bigger helicopter. If you only plan to fly the cp s it is not need to buy (for now, flying is addictive).

Mode 2 is a good idea for helicopter, so you have your cyclic on the same stick (right one).

You do not need anything else to fly with nano, only the transmiter. It would be a very good idea to get more batteries and a charger unless you plan to fly 6/7min and wait more than half an hour to fly again for your battery to charge (and it's a good idea to wait for the battery to cool down after flying and after charging (and for cp s motor too unless they will burn very fast too)).

You'll need a charger, two ways of going:

1s charger

Charger and parallel harness/board, more hassle than the 1s one, but if you plan to fly something bigger someday, you would have to buy one anyway.

If you only want a 1s charger, looks like something like this http://www.amazon.com/E-Flite-Celectra-4-Port-Battery-Charger/dp/B001XIMGP0/ref=pd_bxgy_21_img_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1B607A3B3CNZK8RSK8R9 or Hitec X4 (I think) would be a good buy.

For the battery, as the horizon hobby website show, it uses the same as Nano qx so:

http://www.amazon.com/4-Pack-Lectron-Pro-3-7-volt/dp/B0088W63AS/ref=pd_rhf_se_s_cp_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=41r%2BuA5GizL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_SL500_SR135%2C135_&refRID=0F6HY90N2525TFX3XDWA (I didnt test those mysef)

Mylipo.De 205mah (didnt test those myself too)

I tested those for nano Qx: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__38358__Turnigy_nano_tech_160mah_1S_25_40C_Lipo_Kyosho_E_flite_Nano_CP_X_Parkzone_Etc_EU_Warehouse_.html but they were a bit bigger than the original battery, had to use a dremel to make it fit, not that of a good idea. (edit: they are not high quality battery, they are standard, cheap, but you get what you pay for. For me at least, couple of them already show increased resistance (might be because of the shitty plug))

For sim:

I'm using this one everyday:
http://www.heli-x.info/cms/ it even have a mac version!

Now, for the cable, I have no idea since I dont have a dx6i.
But google said:
Heli-X DX6I and Mac

I suggest you ask your question on:
Helifreak They have a section special cp s

Some very interesting reading:

Newbies guide to the DX6i for RC helicopters how to set up the dx6i to calm down the helicopter
From tail-in to all 8s and funnels in 6 months. Plan to learn 3d flying ? Read that post, very interesting.

Why the nano cp s and dx6i combo by the way ?

Well, went longer than expected … heh

Those batteries are a little chunky for a 250. I have some and they are slightly bigger and heavier than my 2200mAh zippy compact but I like to fly 1500 zippy the best on mine. I got the 2206 motors on my h250cf 3k pro and just added 20a esc and 6040 props to it last night. It's a beast! I use that same charger and it's great. I say go with the 99$ kit h250cf pro kit.
I would also not recommended the flysky fs-t6 I was seeing brown outs with it and left negative review on Amazon for the product. I now use a taranis and it really is amazing! Here is my speed run this weekend. I need to tilt my fpv camera so I can go faster and see where I'm going. This isn't all she has by any means. This was warm up before I went tree cruising
RCX H250CF 3K Pro 3/1/15: http://youtu.be/p6pV1zKdQTw

>Thanks for the response! Which 1300mah batteries did you purchase?

>I have a chunk of amazon credit that I'd like to use to get the rest of my stuff (even if it comes at a slight premium), so I plan on getting my prop balancer, charger, etc from there if possible.

>This is the charger

>And I'm considering a few of these batteries

Tattus are really nice, but they can be pricey, graphenes work really well, and nano techs aren't bad either, Nanotechs are a little cheaper than the Tattu and Graphenes, any of them would be a good choice, I do think that Tattu would be pretty durable, as well as the graphenes, they both seem to have some protection measures built in such as the steel plates in the Tattus
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005MW0WZO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1462293523&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=4+channel+lipo+rc+charger&dpPl=1&dpID=51u7%2Bki0NRL&ref=plSrch

That's the charger I use, however I think there's a 1 channel version if you don't need 4, it does a good job though and will automatically trickle charge(it basically drops the amps when the battery gets closer to full, pretty standard thing for lipos, you can fast charge if needed) and balance well

Also have you already built it ? I run raceflight and it's a night and day difference you may want to look into getting a CC3D revo to do raceflight

I bought this: Traxxis 6AMP but I'm pretty sure this is the same thing, just rebranded and cheaper: HiTec 6AMP

Its got a decent range for batteries (2cell - 6cell), charges different batteries other than LiPo and has a nice read out as well as a wall plug and car battery leads for field charging.

Edit: after looking at that turnigy accucell, it looks like I got hosed pretty good :/

That was quick ! :)

So being a Horizon Hobby BNF (Bind n Fly) it only works with Spektrum transmitters. That's not a bad thing as 8 out of 10 pilots I know or have traded with and myself included fly Spektrum. Just to throw this out there, asking about radios in the RC community is like asking what the best mfg. of trucks is.

That said, the basic Spektrum radio is a DXe, that will more than get the job done for the Radian UMX. If you think you will want to stick around the hobby for a bit and get larger sailplanes or might be interested in other types of planes then I would highly recommend the DX8e. There is a large price difference in the two radios I just mentioned but the DX8e can store up to 250 model configs and program right on the radio. So one radio for all your planes, and if you want to try heli's or fpv/racing quads down the road it will work perfectly for those as well.

Beyond a Spektrum transmitter you might look at getting a USB Balance board so you can charge multiple batteries on the go and some 1S 45C 220Mah batteries. It balances and fly's fine with the slightly larger battery for additional flight time and the extra discharge capability (45C vs 25C) will give you a noticeable difference in power.

Totally agree, that would work but this little quad (http://www.gearbest.com/rc-quadcopters/pp_440381.html) doesn't have telemetry capabilities so I just unplug when it gets sluggish and am often at .1-.2v difference. They're 500-600mah so I charge at .5amp, it typically takes 80 minutes and balance charging if they're really off can take much longer than that. Agree on my bigger quads that are multi cell and much higher mah they charge a lot quicker.

I can test the batteries individually but all that tells me is that they're off, it doesn't help me with balancing them, so I asked if there was a safe way to balance them. I followed some other advice in the thread and got a super cheapo 6 port charger from amazon, so I can charge all my cells at once (presuming its not some unsafe chinese knock off) it will charge each one separately, with an indicator when each cell is done: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XWSRSU2/

Thanks for your interest in the question.

If it's useful, I too just got started, and built a similar drone. When it came to charging, I had to read a ton of stuff. Here's what I did (all non-referral Amazon links. you may find cheaper on banggood if you want to wait forever):

ISDT Charger

12v Power Supply

Balance Charger

To connect these up, it may be useful to have some extra XT60 plugs since the power supply won't have XT60, and neither does the balance charger.

With these optional parts, I was able to make a nice looking (and more safe) charger from the power supply, along with a 3d print available here


Voltmeter

Power plug

I found this to be a pretty fun project, and wasn't as expensive as some options I saw on HobbyKing or everywhere else. To be fair, it wasn't the cheapest option either.

Wow, this is great timing. I wasn't aware of this thread, but could certainly use some tech help regarding batteries/chargers. I recently bought a ISDT SC-608 LiPo smart charger. I bought a power supply off Amazon that had an XT-60 adapter and made an adapter to go from my Valken 7.4v 1300 maH batteries mini-tamiya to XT-60. Today however I received my power supply and plugged it into the wall. Its red light went on and I plugged it into my 608. The 608 turned on for a moment, then off again. The power supply light turned off and now just makes a high pitched noise. It seems that the power supply is broken, but I leave tomorrow afternoon and need a power supply for my charger. I was wondering if I could take a Lenovo laptop AC to DC cable, cut the Lenovo end off and solder on a XT-60 connector and it would work. The Lenovo charger is 20V 3.25 Amp (65 W?) and my charger can take 150W and 9V - 32V so I think it could work, but I dont want to break anything.

Broken power supply https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XQW36BL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_JZJ4BbPT3YZJJ

608 charger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072PRF3ND/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_I0J4Bb7MWRV4N

Valken 7.4v Lipo 1300 maH battery https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TS7KONE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_l1J4BbD71A2HZ

The Lenovo power supply is just one I found at goodwill

I hope this was enough information and I appreciate any help you can give.

Edit: The battery is for a CM16 AEG, so I posted this here. Besides, I cant really find a subreddit more active than this that it would be relevant in.

Your mob7 came with either a single connection usb charger or a 6 connection charger board that will need either a DC power supply (5.5mm barrel plug, probably... ) or an xt60 connection (larger battery or a modified DC power supply). Your best bet will be to look for similar 1s lipo charger boards online that come with the DC power supply in order to see what you need to get.

The M8 will only be able to charge 1s lipos with a special wire harness, which you would find searching for "1s parallel charging cable". Parallel charging is not simple and can be dangerous, though. I don't suggest it when you already have a capable charger.

Looking forward, the M8 will also need a DC psu with xt60 for input, and can only charge a single xt60 battery by default, so you would need a parallel board and/or adapters for more xt60 packs or xt30 charging.

Edit: This listing on amazon should look like your charger or you should consider getting something like it for your 1s charging. It has a picture with possible input options (battery, DC psu, DC psu with xt60). The answers section suggests a 5.5mm barrel plug, probably a 12v/3A supply should be purchased. You might have a suitable psu around the house already for smaller laptops or electronics like a router or modem. Other listings might come with a psu for a higher price.

I don't have time to write a book, but here are a couple of things I can share. I boxed up my stuff 20-25 years ago. We all ran RC 10s with NiCads. We all used Novak ESCs (T1 and T4). Futaba and KO Propo for radio.

Motors - Look at the motor/ESC combos that are available.

ESCs - Again look at the combos. Castle makes some nice stuff and they have software so you can program the ESC from your computer. It is very annoying to program an ESC based on flashing lights and beeps. http://www.castlecreations.com/products/castle_link.html

Receivers - I tried to use my old Novak receiver and Futaba, but it wasn't reliable. I broke down and just got a new Futaba set. There is a company called Fly Sky that makes very inexpensive transmitters that I hear are not that bad.

Servos - The big thing here is more power and strength due to the rock crawler crowd. A lot more options now.

Batteries - I tried to use NiMH and now realize I should have just gone straight to LiPo. LiPos supposedly are a little volatile and should be stored in a liPo sack to prevent against fire. I bet you have to do something really stupid to make them dangerous though. They also need to be put into storage mode if they are not going to be used for a while. This just means they need to be charged to a certain amount. I do what is called a balanced charge each time I charge them. This means that each section of the battery is at the same voltage. I have been using this charger and it works well. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00466LEMC/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_3?pf_rd_p=1535523722&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B003EJD8HG&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0XZERFQM3FBSQ820RX7E

Chassis - Correct, not much difference here especially when you look at brands like Team Associated or Tamiya. There are some new brands out there that make some nice stuff like Axial.

Hopefully someone with more time can elaborate . . . . especially on the battery stuff because it is a bit complicated.

Thank you for all that! That was a useful YouTube video, too.

I had to make the purchases yesterday, since I'll be playing with actors in the studio on Monday. That said, I still have time to buy some things.

It's a comfort that I seem to be on the right track. The biggest difference between what I bought and your suggestions is that you suggested I buy the Dock-Kings and other pricier receiver/converting gear. I'd appreciate if you could look at my list of purchased items to determine if you think it will work, or if you see some some red flags.

I suppose in the long run, if this theatre show concept shows promise, we would then invest in more reliable gear, such as no-compression wireless HDMI tx/rx. For now, here it is:

​

4 cameras:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y5D8SPZ/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (1S LiPo)

2 x https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y56RL5P/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (1S LiPo)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0184DVN4G/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (2S or 3S LiPo)

​

3 receivers (should I buy different antennae?):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0774SMGQN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

2 x https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H36AIGY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

3 AC/DC adapters for the receivers:

3 x https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ISM267G/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

3S LiPo (for 3S LiPo camera and try battery-powered Receiver)

2 x https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GF63645/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Battery chargers

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00466PKE0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Charger-Channel-Inductrix-Connectors/dp/B074M6G2MD

​

Each receiver has an AV output + AV RCA cable. I'll plug in the RCAs from 2 or 3 receivers into this Switcher:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KXVBB7C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Using an RCA cable, connect the Switcher's Output to this RCA to HDMI converter:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KTDG177/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Then HDMI to projector.

​

Ta-da?

I use the "Newbie Drone" parallel charger. It gives you 12 ports to parallel charge on. It is designed for the smaller connectors, but you could easily make a cable. $20, maybe another $5-$10 to make adapters. I use an iMax b6 charger with this board (about $30-$40) and it works pretty well.

For a lot less ($4) you can get a 6 port parallel charger from RMRC. This would also need an adapter cable similar to above.

Other non-parallel options:
4 port Hitec Serial Charger. Works well, lets you charge up to 1A, and has the connector you need.

RMRC also just announced a 6 port, individual charging, for $19. It requires an XT60 cable to power it, which you could use a 3S or 4S battery, or plug in a 12v DC charger. You'd also need to make a cable for this one.

Hey, I purchased a Taranis X9D today with the intent of buying a micro as my first decent quad (I've trashed a few cheap ones learning how to fly). Once the radio arrives I plan on practicing with a sim while the (unpurchased yet) quad is in the mail.

I realise it's expensive, but the MOSKITO 70 is the frontrunner on my my micro shopping list right now. If my understanding is correct, the brushed motors on the three linked quads will wear out after a while, unlike the MOSKITO, correct?

On the Multicopter sidebar, the sidebars Batteries and Charging has some great info, however I'm still a little unclear on:

1. The difference between batteries. Looking at banggoods "1s lipo battery" page, there are all manner of mAh ratings for each battery. Can any of these be used on the micro quads listed above? Is a higher C-Rating always better?
   
2. A 1S battery doesn't have multiple cells to be balanced, so the recommended Hitec RCD 44212 X4 is a simple buy. But if I were to move onto 2S or greater, would I need to choose between a Balance Charger or a Parallel Charger?

I use this one, which is close to the second one you linked. The first one appears to be a SkyRC clone. The thing I like about the one I have is that it's been on the market a little longer, and seems to dissipate heat a little better than the mini. They perform nearly the same, though.

You can use a parallel charging board to charge multiple batteries at once, but make sure you understand what you're doing. You'll need to make sure your cells that they'll be in parallel with are at similar voltages. If they start to get too far apart, you need to balance charge the battery by itself, and evaluate its health during future charges.

Also, if your batteries have been sitting a long time, make sure they're healthy before you start charging things up again.

More batteries, more SD cards. I'd suggest at least 2 of each.

Protect the batteries and READ the manual. These are not like normal batteries. I personally recommend you store them in a LiPo bag like this. It's rare they explode or start fire but it's better to be paranoid. Don't store them long term in smaller bags or anything sealed as they will generate heat as they automatically discharge over time.

Keep your drone away from sand at all costs... be sure you have a large, stable, clean landing area.

Here is my setup. I have most of my parts here (just waiting on the motors, esc, and frame). If you have any feedback, I would love to hear it. Also, why 3 blade props? I don't see many of those.

Goggles: FatShark Predator V2 Video Glasses w/Transmitter and Camera

Antenna: ImmersionRC 5.8 GHz SpiroNET Antenna Set LHCP

Transmitter: Turnigy 9x

DragonFly32 PRO

Motors: 4 Sunnysky X2204S X2204 2300KV Brushless Motor CW For RC Model

ESC: Emax Simon 12A Brushless ESC Electronic Governor Supports 1-3S Small Axis

Frame Kit: LS4G H250 ZMR250 250mm Carbon Fiber Mini Quadcopter Micro Multicopter Frame Kit

Props: 5030 Airplane 2-blade Propeller Props 50x3 CW Multi-Copter Quad-Rotor 2-Pairs

Battery Charger: ORIGINAL SkyRC iMax B6 Super Multi Charger Balancer for Lithium (Li-po,), Ni-cd, Ni-mh, and Pb Battery

Battery: FLOUREON® 2 New 3S Lipo Battery 11.1V 2200mAh 25C RC Rechargeable Battery Pack with XT60 Plug for DJI Phantom Quadcopter, DJI Phantom FC40 Spare, Walkera E22RC, RC Helicopter, RC Airplane RC Hobby DIY Red

I have the same fan problems with two Traxxas 2933 EZ-Peak Plus units (older models, prior to Traxxas battery ID plugs). They have the same overall shape, display and button layout as the Hitec X1 so I wouldn't be surprised if they were all made by the same supplier.

It is a typical small case fan issue (straining noises and low speed) but like you they still work. I usually blow out the fan area with canned air every so often and it seems to help. One day I'll add some oil to see if it solves it, but might have to take it apart to get to the bearing.

Mode 1 right throttle, mode 2 left throttle. i think most use mode 2?


Turnigy 9XR doesn't come with a module (tx and rx), so you need a set of those.


If you are trying to save money, maybe something like this?


If looking for something to use with other stuff in the future, I would get something like this. it comes with the tx/rx


I got one of these for a charger.

disclaimer: I am a noob at this (2 months) so take with grain of salt!! -lol

2- If you are just starting out, get 3s bats. They are a little more tame than the 4s bats. I'd get a minimum of 4. It's what i have currently, and it's fine if I'm just messing around in my yard, but as I make an afternoon with friends, I'm left out because I'm trying to use my batteries sparingly.

I don't plan on getting 4s until I'm in control of my quad with high rates on 3s.

3- Get something that is 60+watts. I have an 80W, and with that I have a balance board with it. You can then charge more than one at a time. http://amzn.com/B014ERISDK

I"m happy with this charger. http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-airplanes/protek-rc-prodigy-touch-680-ac-lipo-life-nimh-ac-dc-battery-charger-6s-8a-80w-ptk-8513/p260579

Alright, so the 500W supply is sufficient. Just to be clear, I'd need a capable charger model that could handle the wattage like this ISDT model. Other models like this one wouldn't be able to utilize the larger PSU, right?

Also, I just realized I need to mod the PSU. Is there a general guide to follow as my particular model (Antec Basiq BP500U) doesn't seem to have anything to follow that I've found.

Why don't you list out the features you need or want. And also desired and acceptable flight times.

Some things to think about...

• Carrying Capacity? How heavy are the cameras you want to lift? Pretty simple if you stick to the GoPro standard anything above a 250 quad can carry a GoPro and simple 2-axis gimbal. If you want to carry a DSLR or new mirrorless 4/3 camera... you'll need something on the larger size for enough lift.
  
• Follow Me - Will require GPS, an advanced AutoPiloting flight controller, and a compatible tracking/GPS device on the Follow Me subject.
  
• Rotor redundancy. If a single motor/prop fails do you accept that it will fall from the sky like a brick? or do you need something that will have a slow/controlled crash with a single motor/prop failure?
  
• Do you want a live feed from the camera? How do you want to view the feed? Monitor attached to the radio controller? or a goggle system?
  
• Do you want telemetry? Data reporting back to your radio controller, computer, tablet or overlayed on your video feed? Data that can be reported back... health of GPS connections, coordinates, Battery levels, altitude, distance from "home" location.
  
• Budget... probably should have listed this first. Where's the fun in that?
  
  
  Example Hex... Little under the cost of a Quad Phantom 2 V+ and a good bit under the Quad Iris+ while giving you some protection against a single motor/prop failure.
  
  
• $60-$100 - F550 or S550 Hex frame
  
• $230 - Tuned Propulsion Kit - DJI E310 (Makes picking motors, props size, esc size easy for an F550 or S550 frame).
  
• $130 - PixHawk Clone
  
• $50 - GPS (Works with both US/EU GPS systems)
  
• $40-$75 Pixhawk ground station/mission planner/telemetry connectivity (No link as it depends on connection type i.e. PC/Tablet/Phone)
  
• $55 - 4S 6000mah battery (probably want 2 or 3)
  
• $65 Battery charger
  
• $70 - Cheap 2-Axis GoPro Gimbal
  
• $250 - FrSky Taranis Radio Controller and Receiver Combo (Cheaper options exist for around $150. $60 Turnigy 9X Transmitter / $40 FrSky TX Module / $40 FrSky Receiver)
  
• $30-$70 Video transmitter - Depends on if you want fatshark goggle compatibility (ImmersionRC or the Generic 32Ch variety)
  
• $120-$220 7" Video Receiver Monitor combo. (Depends on the Video transmitter and if you want dual antenna setup.)
  
• $$$ GoPro
  
• @ $50+ in Misc servo cables, battery connectors, Hot glue, double sided tape, velcro scrips, solder and cheap soldering iron. Some of which you'll likely already have, but some you'll need as the build progresses.
  

I just bought a Makerfire RTF FPV, yay!

I saw the Makerfire team recommended these batteries in their Q/A on Amazon:

Crazepony 4pcs 250mAh 1S 3.7V 35C Blade Inductrix Lipo Battery with 4pcs Plastic Tubes

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MSLAA9W

***note: They actually said 220mah when they posted the link to 250mAh, so I don't know which is wrong -- the link, or 220mah recommendation? What battery should I go with?

And this, to charge it:

Crazepony 1S Lipo Battery Charging Board Blade Inductrix Ultra Micro JST-PH Parallel Connect Plate mCX mCPX
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ID6U4LC


Now for my question:

Don't I need some kind of special apparatus to plug this into my wall?

Is that what this is thing is?:
Crazepony SkyRC Quattro 1-Cell 1S Lipo Battery Charger Blade Inductrix Discharger MX mCPX E-flite Connector

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IGK5RSA/ref=psdc_2234135011_t1_B01ID6U4LC

Is that $49 thing good enough? Overkill? Just right?

Thanks!

The Blade Nano is way fun and can easily be flown indoors or out (barring strong winds.) I have replaced literally every part on mine (frame, controller, props, engines) as I learned and when one got stuck in a try I was back to flying for $70 to get a BNF (bind and fly- meaning I just bought the quad, not a controller with it.) I bought this charger which lets me juice up 4 batteries at a time for pretty much non-stop flying.

Tiny whoop ain't cheap. Racedayquads is my favorite source.

Budget charger I use is on Amazon and you'll need the charging cable as well. Perfectly serviceable for 1s batteries.

Charger is listed in the frequently bought together section.

Upgraded 1S LiPo LiHV Charger Board for Blade Inductrix Tiny Whoop Micro JST 1.25 and JST-PH 2.0 1S LiPo Battery with JST and Micro Losi Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CJ5ZJ1V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_YCFRDbQDDQTBP

To use the telemetry you need the proper Frsky receiver and transmitter module. Then it looks like you plug the telemetry module into the buddy box port on the radio. There are some good videos of how to set up the telemetry that go through everything you need.

I use the 9xr with the frsky transmitter or the Immersion Rc long range module and have never felt a need for telemetry. The radio already has a stopwatch and timer on it, the long black receiver with 2 antennas has RSSI built in (on low signal it beeps the radio) and to monitor voltage I use a lipo alarm that also displays voltage. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00EXPPF80/ref=pd_aw_sbs_7?pi=SL500_SY115&simLd=1

It beeps loud enough to be heard anywhere within LOS. I have also never lost control signal of a multirotor when flying LOS. Although, the module is pretty cool and takes care of all those issues in a small package.

Specs:

• 2x 6374 180kv motors
  
  
• MBS all-terrain wheels
  
  
• 2x pulley kit (36:13)
  
  
• 2x motor mounts
  
  
• Caliber II Trucks (I have wider Torqueboard 218 trucks coming so I can mount both motors inside)
  
  
• Antispark switch
  
  
• FSESC 200A
  
  
• 2x 6s 6000mAh Lipos
  
  
• Deck from a longboard I bought like 4 years ago
  
  
• Both enclosures were 3d printed with ProtoPasta carbon fiber and TPU washers that vary in thickness to compensate for the contours of the board (my own design).
  
  
• bearings
  
  
• Dual charger
  
  
• other various screws, nuts, wires, connectors, solder, etc
  
  
  Total Cost: Approx. $1200
  
  
  Additional notes:
  
  
• This was my first time using this brand of carbon fiber filament and I have to say its insanely strong, knocking on the back of the case, which is only 5mm thick, feels like knocking on a brick wall, its nothing like any filament i've ever used before and prints surprisingly well but will destroy brass nozzles (which cost pennies anyways).
  
  
• I've gotten it up to 26mph so far, with plenty of throttle left to go (I'd honestly say I didn't hit over 50% throttle). It's been about 2 years since I've rode my longboard, and I've only tried a friends boosted board once about a year ago, so I still need to build up to going fast. A more experienced rider got it up to 29mph and said he still had throttle to spare. So so far no one has been willing to top it off, I'll report back once I get some numbers. I will say that it accelerates faster than most if not all brand name boards.
  
  
• Yes I am aware that I fucked up my rear motor, I have since fixed the issue... Whoops.

You need a micro-t charger. You can find them on Amazon for pretty cheap. Usually USB powered.

Here's one for example.

Don't know why this plug even exists. Wish they just used regular JST connectors. Thanks Losi.

Looks like the 7000 series. There's a 7000 (assembled by user), 7500 (same but comes preassembled), and 7800 (don't remember what difference this had). There may have been others in the series but those are all I know of. I'm guessing the 7500 because the wires are run through the tubes.

It's discontinued and there's very little support available, though they do respond to email at americas@came-tv.com. I tried to get a replacement motor and they told me they don't sell them. So if you want to sell me one of your motors, I'll buy it!

Battery is a LiPo. I bought this charger for it:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B005LH3392

You could get something cheaper nowadays. But you have to unwrap the battery to see what its specs are to charge it properly. If it's 5000mAh (or some other number) it requires a different setting on the charger than the more common 2500mAh. That's one's PROBABLY a 2500mAh. Get a LiPo charger with a "Deans" connector, and read up carefully about charging it properly so it doesn't explode. If you know what mAh it is and how many cells it has, you can buy a cheapo charger that's hard-coded to that one exact combination. Or you can buy an expensive one like I linked to above to be able to charge multiple types.

It's an old, finicky gimbal that's hard to balance and charge, so if you give up, PM me and I'll buy a motor off of it because we still use one at a school I teach at.

Something like that should work in theory, but you should probably look for some reviews for what looks like really cheap Chinese electronics. I've got the Hitec x4 Micro, which is twice the price, but really nice.

http://www.amazon.com/X4-Micro-AC-LiPo-Charger/dp/B00FYL2INM

Thanks for the response! Which 1300mah batteries did you purchase?

I have a chunk of amazon credit that I'd like to use to get the rest of my stuff (even if it comes at a slight premium), so I plan on getting my prop balancer, charger, etc from there if possible.

This is the charger

And I'm considering a few of these batteries

Replace it with a charger that didn't cost less than your batteries?

Seriously, though, those things look pretty sketchy, and as I recall you can't even set the charge current, which would be a deal breaker for me, personally. It sounds like yours has bit the dust, so you should probably just replace it anyhow. ISDT makes pretty good chargers, this one is probably the cheapest. I have a D2, which is super nice since it has 2 channels and runs directly off AC power, but it's about 10x the price of your Charsoon charger.

So I looked into transistors and I'm not sure that this is what I need? They seem to act more like switches in a circuit from what I can tell. Did you mean a capacitor? To boost the power output? or am I going in the wrong direction all together? lol

As for the charger, oh yes it'll charge just about anything I think

Hey you're doing better than i did when i started. Built my first quad before i got goggles, too excited when it was finally done so i maiden flew it at dusk, did a punchout, lost orientation, gone forever over the woods :( lol so that epic fail drove me mad until i would finally get good at flying.

Good goggles are definitely high on the priority list!

This is a newer charger that is very impressive. $60 which is pretty low for a good charger, and it can output 300w/14A. Im thinking of getting one just because its so awesome.

Here is another popular one which is cheaper, but only outputs 50w/5A.

The output wattage is going to matter when you have multiple packs charging at the same time. I use a parallel balance board and charge 6 at a time. That would take hours at 50w.

Those hubsan multi-chargers are hit and miss. Some are great, some aren't. It's nearly impossible to tell which brand is good or not. If you're willing to spend a some more money on a solid charger, get the Hitec X4 micro ac/dc charger.

Thanks for the info! Yes, these are Li-ion cells. The pack is used in an uplighting fixture. I've taken on the task of replacing the packs which are not lasting long enough: http://www.makystagelight.com/index.php?m=content&c=index&a=show&catid=2&id=9

I believe ElectricNed is correct about the type of charger: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HXHGARY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

There is no difference battery charging, the difference is how the charger is powered.

An AC charger can be plugged directly to an AC socket on the wall.

A DC charger requires a 12 volt DC power supply, like a full size car battery or some sort of power supply to convert from 110v AC to the 12v DC the charger requires.

Actually, all chargers are DC, the AC ones just come with the DC power supply built in.

Wow, that's a lot of duty, sounds like you should source locally.

You will need a 20 amp charger and, if required, a parallel charging board to charge 2 batteries at the same time.

I had a look at the products on amazon.ca and I couldn't find anything.

This thing is terrible, on the surface it looks like it would work but it wont do 2C as it only has 50 watt channels.

There maybe someone here who knows of a good canadian supplier but Quadcopter people work with large amp/multi battery charging, you might find more a response for the canadian market there.

Any lipo charger will charge it with a balance board. Just get a charger thats low enough to do a 1C charge on a 200mah battery.

Personally I would just get a cheap balance board capable lipo charger. Can be had for $20+ for a decent one capable of charging that battery I would think.

Something like this will charge from .1A - 5A and has the balance ports built in. Just set it for .2A and let it go it will cut off when the lipo hits 11.1V. Just make sure you get some 4mm banana plug adapters that fit your battery or make one you can use with the gator clips.

Nothing special about them. Just follow the same rules you follow for your big lipos.

I just ordered this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HXHGARY/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I literally only own the truck, reciever and 2 batteries that I'm not too sure about. I ordered that charger earlier, hopefully it's ok.

I also ordered a 5000mah 40c-50c battery: http://www.ebay.com/itm/282202973455?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

After spending another $60 on this thing I think I'm tapped out on my impulse buy. Hoping not to need anything else for a few weeks...

wow, thanks to you I was able to put this on order

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FZX6Z6U/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I purchased the same charger and misread the question and answer section. Thankfully this will be showing up the same day as the rest of my parts, my mailman is going to hate me on thursday lol

Yes, should be fine. Something like this: https://smile.amazon.com/GoolRC-Professional-Balance-Charger-Discharger/dp/B01HXHGARY/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1542915896&sr=8-15&keywords=lithium+charger

would also work.

As long as it can charge generic lipo batteries, and can make sure you aren't charging too fast, you're good to go.

I use this charger. It comes with a variety of connectors, charges lipo, liion, NIMH, nicd, lead acid. It also has a built power supply l, or you can use DC power. https://www.amazon.com/HTRC-Charger-Discharger-Balance-Battery/dp/B07P863S9D/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=lipo+charger&qid=1563910467&s=gateway&sr=8-5

just so you know, this is the quality of an FPV camera and you will be getting breakup lines like this as bodies and stuff getting in the way will cause signal loss https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nU96HLe-hcs

​

​

Here is stuff you can use from Amazon for the AIO Fpv Camera

​

https://www.amazon.com/Wolfwhoop-WT05-Transmitter-Antenna-Quadcopter/dp/B06XJMQQ6Y/

​

https://www.amazon.com/Crazepony-230mAh-Battery-Inductrix-Connector/dp/B01N0Z0ME2

​

https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Charger-Channel-Inductrix-Connectors/dp/B074M6G2MD

​

Here is how to hook it up to a battery https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uOcxdVX6zYk

​

On the receving end, I assume you will then want to output to HDMI? The best/easiest way to do this is to buy two of these dock kings and hdmi adapters, one for each camera. If you have power nearby you can use a regular 5.5mm DC jack power adapter like for laptops. Or you can buy the battery packs for them. You will also want at least 2 antennas on each receiver, 1 omni and 1 patch antenna pointing in the direction of the actors

​

https://furiousfpv.com/product_info.php?cPath=56&products_id=669

​

https://furiousfpv.com/product_info.php?products_id=704

​

https://furiousfpv.com/product_info.php?cPath=42&products_id=687

​

https://www.amazon.com/Crazepony-Antenna-Protective-Covering-Multicopter/dp/B01N9QM409

​

https://www.amazon.com/RCmall-Accuracy-Directional-Circularly-Polarized/dp/B0772WJB5R

​


You will have to learn/read instructions on how to set each camera and receiver to their matching frequency bands


​

​

Yes that is the one I currently have. I also believe based on the current running of the 1800MaH battery pack that it wont be able to handle a LiPo battery. It takes 2 hours because its the standard crappy wall charger that came with the car, so I know I need a new charger. I see alot of recommendations to get one of these http://amzn.to/1rpiWDq . Is there a reason to not go big on the LiPo right now? I want something that can be used on a future RC car, and if I can get something decent now I wouldnt mind. Is there specific ESC you might recommend to run on this buggy with a LiPo battery and a brushed motor? I just want to be able to upgrade in the future and any purchases I make on this just transfer them over. I should have gone brushless (DOH).

was thinking of going with this ESC : http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__32025__HobbyKing_X_Car_45A_Brushed_Car_ESC.html.
Is there something I can get that would allow me to run a slightly bigger battery since I am limited to 7.4v-2s?
Can you help me choose a battery with power and long run time?

Can't go wrong with the Hitech X4. One of the best purchases I've made in the micros.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FYL2INM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00


This thing is awesome!

Thanks for replying :) I was thinking / hoping for something a lot cheaper actually, but I've seen that product name tossed around before. Which one of these should I buy?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hitec-X4-Micro-Ac-Dc-1-Cell-Lipo-Charger-44212/351576886028?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140602152332%26meid%3D06b9f86079364a21be29e7518acc96d0%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D10%26sd%3D171987244306

or

http://www.amazon.com/Hitec-RCD-Micro-1-Cell-Charger/dp/B00FYL2INM

Do you know if there any notable difference bwtween them?

Hands down best bang for your buck. Comes with all cables and connectors needed

I have had one for 6 months and just ordered my 2nd

Tenergy TB6AC

Looks like it will do the job. You might want to probe the pins on the board and the battery to make sure they match +/-.

BTW, your link contains a lot of tracking strings. For future, try this:

https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Charger-Channel-Inductrix-Connectors/dp/B074M77J5M/

Ok thank you for the info I think I'm going with this charger instead
https://www.amazon.com/HTRC-Charger-Discharger-Balance-Battery/dp/B07P863S9D?ref_=ast_sto_dp

What do you think about this instead?

On chargers, amazon is your friend I found this in two minutes (and it's also the one I use personally). On lipos, Intellect/Firefox are a go-to for me.
P.S. You shouldn't be using an 11.1v without a mosfet.

Hitech make a charger but its a little expensive. Probably pretty high quality though.

http://www.amazon.com/X4-Micro-AC-LiPo-Charger/dp/B00FYL2INM

I think I left it set at the default voltage.

I put a voltage alarm on most of my larger aircraft. Like this: http://www.amazon.com/BlueMart-Battery-Checker-Voltage-Buzzer/dp/B00EXPPF80/

I like this style because you can set the alarm voltage they are cheap. all you do is hang it off of the balance cable on your battery. They are also EXTREMELY loud. You can hear it from a pretty good distance.

I'm not familiar with using those connectors but I have the same charger. I use a balance board. so I can charge a few at a time. If you were to do that, then something like this would work

Otherwise just an ec5 to banana plug should work.

Just grab something like this. Should work for up to a 6s lipo, and you can switch it onto whichever battery you are flying.

it also shows the total voltage, as well as each individual cell voltage.

Its alarm usually goes off at 3.5v/3.3v per cell, so it works well for flying LOS or close to medium range FPV

If you fly with 1s batteries a balance charger might not ever be worth it. (You can't balance a 1s battery) I use the IMAX b6ac but I have 2 other quadcopters that run 4s.

It's nice being able to parallel charge 6 batteries at a time, and makes batteries last longer being able to storage charge. Which both likely do. You'd need a paraboard to do more than one Inductrix battery
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ID6U4LC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_vpKEybSJESZA6

I’m about two weeks ahead of you.

The Jumper is a solid choice, mostly for the reasons you mention. Here is the T16 thread. Everything you ever wanted to know.

As far as transmitter batteries, I’d suggest checking out this thread @ RCgroups. I’d have purchased the $35 in radio charging kit instead of the standard 18650 & charger.

I’ve also got a Tinyhawk S. Would highly recommend. This little thing is bulletproof. It’s currently getting 4 minutes flight time on a 450mah 1S (I bought 10 of them). Haven’t tried 2S yet, as it’s been quite windy outside. The charger shipped with it only charges two (1S) at a time, so I bought this 6 place charger from Amazon.

Can’t comment on the EV800, as I went all in on Fatshark HDO's & ImersionRC Rapidfire.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074M77J5M?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Has a very bright green led when charging so it's pretty noticeable in a dark room

Yeah, your old plastic USB speaker, or the nylon holding case (not sure which you have it in), won't help much when that thing goes roman candle. Just get one of these or something like it.

When I charge lipos for my rc planes I do it in the garage in metal buckets. I've seen two lipos go. They didn't so much as explode as much as shoot out a jet of flame.

Would something like this work to start with? What do you think the charge times would be with it?

You won't be able to charge many batteries at 1C with that charger, unfortunately. You can charge about 3.9 A worth of batteries on 3S. When dealing with chargers you need to be aware of the max power that they're rated to handle.

OP, that charger can only handle 50 W. To find the power your batteries need while charging, multiply the current you want to charge at by the max voltage of the battery. P = I*V.

For example, with 3 3s batteries at 1300 mah charging at 1C you use 49.14 W = ((3 batteries)(1300 mA)(12.6 V)).

Also, protip, when parallel charging try to make sure your batteries are within about .1 V or so of each other or bad things might happen.

To parallel charge you will need to get a parallel charging board like this. Plug this into your charger and then plug the batteries into the board and press charge. It's that easy.

what do you think of keeping an inverter in a fire safe bag like this?

https://www.amazon.com/COLCASE-Fireproof-Explosionproof-Charging-198x150x135mm/dp/B0719H46PF

You might be right. A multimeter would really be handy, to confirm, but you might be on the right track there.

Actually.... stay tuned...

edit: Tested on my lipo balance charger and sure enough, on NiMH/NiCd mode, it does provide a constant voltage, according to my multimeter.

Get a [LiPo bag] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0719H46PF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3QqYBbSZZ85YS) and practice safe charging.

I use this charger for example HTRC Lipo Charger 1-6S Touch Screen Dual Discharger AC150W DC240W 10A T240 Fast Balance Battery Charger for RC Li-ion Life NiCd NiMH LiHV PB Smart Battery
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P863S9D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_sZ7NDbWYZW4PJ.

If you see the front it has a connector for the balance lead and the banana connectors

Is Imax and Tenergy about the same reliability do you know? I can get a Tenergy one with built in power for about $20 more and it comes with a couple more leads. http://www.amazon.com/Tenergy-TB6AC-Power-Balancing-Charger/dp/B00466LEMC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1412569389&sr=8-3&keywords=Tenergy+TB6-ac+Balance

I want to keep it compact so I can use it when I go out camping and hiking. I have a converter for my Jeep and a solar generator that can power the charger and it would be nice to not have to have an extra brick to carry and cut on weight.

I'm no expert but I would recommend starting with a tiny whoop. Also, I use the ISDT SC-608 to charge batteries.

The charger claims to work with
>Any other RC 3.7V 1S LiPo battery with JST


The batteries are Micro JST 1.25, so not sure if the charger will work. I use this one to charge mine

The batteries you linked are the correct ones, yes.

Do you not want to solder or you dont know how? you can build one with an F3 board so you can add beta flight for a little more (if you have a transmitter already that is)

https://www.getfpv.com/dtn-pico-ph2-micro-paraboard.html (more on the way)

https://www.amazon.com/Crazepony-Battery-Charging-Inductrix-Parallel/dp/B01ID6U4LC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1510939122&sr=8-3&keywords=crazepony+parallel+board&dpID=41fwQN1hWpL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch (cause this is an unofficial account and I'm not here to just promote this company)

The best option I found was this Celectra 4-Port 1S 3.7V 0.3A DC Li-Po Charger but I just cant justify buying it when it cost almost as much or in my case more then what I paid for my Quad. Also the AC cord is optional and it uses D batteries.

I just use 2 USB chargers with my 5 batteries and get almost an hour before I have to wait for them to charge. Find that works for me.

EZPeak is like $140 on Amazon

You can get iMax clones for $18

After some more research, I think something like this charger should work plus it works on AC, too.

compare that traxxas charger to this one I think they are the same one...

Hitec X1

Edit: looks like the traxxas is rated for 80 Watts the hitec for 55. Both for 6 Amps

Just get a 1s balanceparallel board, make sure the plugs match the batteries you have and follow the normal rules of all batteries at very close to the same voltage and such when using it.

That one would work, however it is made for NimH batteries, so if you ever switch over to a LiPo battery in your gun you will have to get a different one.

https://www.amazon.com/Tenergy-TB6AC-Power-Balancing-Charger/dp/B00466LEMC/ref=sr_1_3?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1483824779&sr=1-3&keywords=smart+charger+lipo+nimh

This one is a little more expensive but it will make sure you are able to use any battery on it. Really depends on how much money you are willing to spend. :P

On my phone so the formatting is wack, but saw this in the recommended on that same page... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074M77J5M/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_t1_qrIACb25GB14S

Yeah, the internal one is the ring charge, this is my external (you can get cheaper ones that work as wel)

I second this, but I though it came with a wall charger?

Edit: never mind I'm dumb, the DC wall adapter is separate from the actual charger E-flite Celectra 4-Port 1-Cell 3.7V 0.3A DC Li-Po Charger

Here is the link to the parallel charger:https://www.amazon.com/Crazepony-Battery-Charging-Inductrix-Parallel/dp/B01ID6U4LC

And here is my lipo charger(works fine with all other lipos):
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/imax-b6ac-v2-professional-balance-charger-discharger.html
 

Some seller on amazon has them for $70 shipped, a bit too much.

http://www.amazon.com/X4-Micro-AC-LiPo-Charger/dp/B00FYL2INM/ref=sr_1_1?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1426032661&sr=1-1&keywords=Hitec+X4+Micro

https://www.amazon.com/Hitec-RCD-Micro-1-Cell-Charger/dp/B00FYL2INM/ref=sr_1_3?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1467398087&sr=1-3&keywords=hitech+charger

Try this lot's of people seem to use this or have a balance board that can charge a lot of different batteries.

So I found this guy: Traxxas 2933 EZ-Peak Plus

I run this one for those type of batteries. I got it with my MSR I bought a few years ago. It will shut off when each battery is full.

https://www.amazon.com/E-flite-Celectra-4-Port-1-Cell-Charger/dp/B001XIMGP0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480811429&sr=8-1&keywords=e-flite+4+port+charger

This is the charger I use:

http://www.amazon.com/HiTec-44167-Plus-4-Port-Multi-Charger/dp/B005MW0WZO

and here is a video of a guy talking about it:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Jgtlo4Kc8Q

Here is the desktop version of your link

Here is the mobile version of your link

Just bought this one:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001XIMGP0/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1420214353&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SY200_QL40

I use https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005OTX7LG/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1 for track day and https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005LH3392/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ov3lxb02YPP5E for other use, including charging to storage mode. Though I was able to find them much cheaper than they're listed here.

I personally am afraid of getting what I pay for when it comes to chargers and batteries so I do t go for the cheapest.

The Blade nQX FPV was my first quad and I love it. I got the RTF which included transmitter and fat sharks. As I started to get serious I got myself a Spektrum DX6i and a USB dongle for flying simulators, which accelerated my skills in very short time.

I have 5 batteries but that's only around 30 mins flying, before 3-4 hours of recharging. Unless you get yourself a multi-slot charger to cut recharge times down.

In the past 3 months I've gone through 2 or 3 sets of motors, about 4 or 5 sets of props, a new 4-in-1 flight controller and replaced the canopy with half a ping pong ball. Also, as you'll see in my image below, I've done some repairs on the feet because the frame tends to crack after many heavy landings.

Twice now, after nasty crashes the camera's power leads came loose and I had to resolder them, but a few days ago the camera died altogether, so a new one is on its way. Thankfully removing the camera reduces weight to increase flight times as I fly it line of sight indoors and out.

So it's obvious that I'm addicted enough to continuously replace parts. It has taken a beating as I learned to fly, and the parts are not expensive.

Here's what it currently looks like, without a camera. I originally made those little antennae from cable ties to protect the FPV cloverleaf antenna when it lands upside-down, but they are also visually useful for LOS flying.

You're going to need this power cord for the imax b6 charger, for whatever reason they don't sell the power cord with the charger. http://amzn.com/B009VDPNXQ

You should also get this battery for your transmitter http://amzn.com/B00JERJZSS

Definitely invest in a voltage checker, this thing is invaluable in the field, if you discharge your batteries beyond a certain point they go bad, I've had two die on me so far because I let the voltage get too low. http://amzn.com/B00EXPPF80

You need some kind of power distribution board, to distribute power from your battery to the rest of the craft, something like this http://amzn.com/B00GQOZZUY

You will need these servo wires to connect your receiver to the kk2 http://amzn.com/B00P6JJFIS

These nylon standoffs will be really handy when you mount your flight controller and PDB (power distribution board) to the frame http://amzn.com/B00LGB2N1Q

Random stuff from the hardware store: Liquid tape, electric tape, big zip ties, little zip ties, velcro

That's probably not everything but you will be flying a lot sooner with all of this stuff

That may be the case, which would suck. Look into one of these. You can charge 1-6 batteries and it treats them as a single one cell battery. More convenient and less convoluted if you ask me.

If you have the brushless model, the Dynamite Taser ESC has a LVA onboard. It will cut the power when the lipo reaches a user defined threshold. Also when a Lipo is getting CLOSE to 50% used (and I've noticed this in my Ruckus) There is a VERY noticable drop in launching power. Regardless, this is the standard for LIPO alarms. If it looks like this, its the same thing, brand isnt important. and they are retarded-ly loud.