#1 in AC adapters
Reddit mentions of Kastar AC Adapter, Power Supply 12V 6A 72W, Tip Size 5.52.5mm for LCD Monitor, LCD TV, 5050 3528 5630 LED Strip Light, Tape Light, Rope Light, Wireless Router, ADSL Cats, Security Camera
Sentiment score: 19
Reddit mentions: 54
We found 54 Reddit mentions of Kastar AC Adapter, Power Supply 12V 6A 72W, Tip Size 5.52.5mm for LCD Monitor, LCD TV, 5050 3528 5630 LED Strip Light, Tape Light, Rope Light, Wireless Router, ADSL Cats, Security Camera. Here are the top ones.
Buying options
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- Kastar AC Adapter 100% Guarantee to work as original LCD adapter, manufactured at the highest quality standards for ultimate reliability.
- Power Input: AC110-240V Worldwide Input Voltage, Please verify carefully that the DC Output (12V 6A) and connector Tip size (in the pictures) match your original adapter before purchasing.
- Charge with Ultra reliability prevents your LCD Monitor, TV or LED strip lights from overcharging, short circuit, and electronic shock; High energy efficiency - friendly to the environment.
- Kastar AC Adapter perfect replacement for your original LCD Monitor, LCD TV AC adapter and LED strip lights, All Items Include 30-day Money Back and 18-Month Manufacturer Warranty - We Value Your Satisfaction.
- Package Includes: 1 x Kastar AC Adapter, 1 x Connector, 1 x 3-Prong Extended Power Cord, 1 x Kastar Feedback Card, 1 x Retail Package.
Features:
Specs:
Color | 2 pins |
Height | 0.393700787 Inches |
Length | 5.9842519624 Inches |
Size | 12V, 6A 72W |
Weight | 0.44 Pounds |
Width | 8.2 Inches |
The fans run on 12V and likely don't use more than 12-24W each. You could use a cheapo power brick.
I have that same amp. I find that upgrading the power supply to a nicer 3 prong model, like the one linked below, will eliminate all noise and static at higher volumes.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TUMDWG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I couldn't find an affordable buttkicker brand package but I did find a great amp and transducer on amazon for 2/3 the price of the Gamer 2 (cheapest buttkicker) at just about $100. It works fantastically! I'll post links to the products if you care to see them.
Edit:
AuraSound AST-2B-4 Pro Bass Shaker Tactile Transducer by Aura Sound
Lepai LP-168HA 2.1 2 x 40-Watt Amplifier and 1x68W Sub Output by Lepai
12v 6a Adapter Power Supply for LCD Monitor with Power Cord by LCD AC Power Adapter
I almost always recommend the http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__18066__Turnigy_Accucel_6_50W_6A_Balancer_Charger_w_Accessories_US_Warehouse_.html
same 50W as the B6 charger but this one can handle 6A. It doesnt come with a power supply though so you will need something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Power-Supply-LCD-Monitor/dp/B003TUMDWG/ to make it all work.
Model IH-005. The "Russian doll" Portable Dynavap Induction Heater.
​
Purpose: The purpose of this project is to create a design for a Dynavap Induction Heater that fit inside of a plastic 16oz coffee cup. Additionally, this design allows this Dynavap Induction Heater to be replicated using off-the-shelf parts and commonly available tools.
​
Design: The design was intended to improve upon DIH-004 (link), which required the use of a custom chassis to align the internal parts correctly. DIH-005 incorporates a "sleeve" design (like a Russian doll) to align internal parts and provide a mounting platform for the induction heater power supply unit.
​
Features:
Parts:
Parts List
Miscellaneous parts:
internal shot
Parts list:
Tools:
STL for 3d printing:
All three files
Wiring diagram:
Terrible MS paint Diagram
Alright, so here's the heater, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C71XKZ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_8dF8AbWZFK127 And here's the power supply I'm using. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TUMDWG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_PfF8AbGCHFMGV You're gonna want a 12volt 10 amp rated switch, the supply goes to 6. It's worth the 20 bucks, totally changed the vapcap
and while all of this is on the way, read about parallel charging because LiPo batteries can and will burn your house down if you are careless.
DO NOT have batteries connected without it plugged into your charger. If the banana plugs touch and short the batteries, you will have problems. You will want to unplug the JST connectors instead, because it is much safer.
Learn about C ratings, parallel charging and safe lipo storage.
In a parallel configuration you want your charger to think you're charging a single cell lipo with the combined capacity of all of the batteries. For your 1C charge rate: 240*5=1200mAh/1000=1.2A, so you would select 1.2A and leave the default 3.7v(1S) configuration.
You could also purchase a serial balance harness for those situations where the voltages of the batteries aren't close enough.
This was a really rough write up, and I may edit it a bit. But it's 5 AM and I just wanted to spit it out.
Grrr, I rattled off a bunch of information and the edits didn't take.
hey man, about to build my first heater tomorrow, I have a list of parts I ordered based on several threads and stuff you and others recommend I came up with this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0060U92FS/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071NCKQFW/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G00GHQY/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VNSO3OM/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TUMDWG/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GDVVANA/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
aside from wires, a box and tools (Ill get tomorrow from work)
am I set or do I need anything else, also if any of those things I bought incomatible?
If you are looking for something longer, there are these as well
16ft RGB LED strip - $14
And add one of these to plug into your wall...
Power Supply - $7
First off, using an ATX power supply is not a mod. That is the original intended power supply for the Printrboard. There is a socket for the six-pin video card power plug right on the board. In fact, the barrel socket power port is just a jumper to that socket and must be unplugged to upgrade to an ATX power supply.
Some ATX power supplies do require a short bit of wire running from the green wire on the large connector to any black wire on the connector before they will turn on, but that isn't scary, is completely reversible, and isn't even required on all power supplies. You can buy a premade jumper for precisely that purpose. Some ATX power supplies even include the jumper connector.
Now to answer your original question: You are looking for a 12 volt power supply with an ampere rating of 6 amps or more and a 2.1mm X 5.5mm, center positive, barrel style plug. Something like this one should work for you.
Let me be clear in why I prefer the ATX power supply. The ATX power supply is SAFER than the smaller barrel plug power supply. If I was going to run my Printrbot and leave the house for a while, I would feel much better using the ATX power supply. For fire safety, the ATX power supply is the better choice. Sure, the wiring harness looks a bit like an octopus, but a few zip-ties or velcro wraps will tame that beast.
No, just a few simple parts.
Tape
Power Supply
Connectors (Technically optional, you can solder the cut ends of the tape. But this is much easier.
Magnetic Switch
Dimmer (Optional)
You'll also need basic wire nuts and spare wire.
I had 3/4" thick shelves with 1 1/4" MDF trim fronstpieces. Then I cut a small 45-degree piece to fit hidden behind the front trim. The tape then goes on that 45-degree piece so it's pointing down and back. I hope that makes sense.
use this or something similar: https://www.amazon.com/LCD-AC-Adapter-3-Prong-Power/dp/B003TUMDWG/
it won't get you the maximum possible cooling power since it'll be 12v instead of 14.5v, but if you really need 14.5v performance you should probably just be adding more peltier modules.
ignore the advice about full wave rectifiers. you don't want to be running your temperature controller on a non-isolated dc supply. also note that 12v power supplies are not the same thing as 12v battery chargers.
furthermore, your schematic seems to have neutral attached to ground. that is probably not advisable. hopefully your 220v powered temperature regulator has separate neutral and ground lines.
I have used and designed several power supplies, so I should have somewhat of an idea in how noisy they are.
Also, if by ultra-cheap you mean the sub $1 supplies with free shipping from China, then yeah, they'll be crap. I've seen flyback switchers with no feedback; they only output the stated voltage when you drew the stated current.
On the other hand, if they are the supplies that came with the devices, then barring rare circumstances, they're fine. Good low-current supplies are inexpensive, because the components are inexpensive. I could build a 1-amp offline switcher with a PCB bill of materials around $1, so it is possible to get a complete assembled unit for around $2, wholesale. They aren't too noisy, because the integrated controllers keep the feedback loops tight.
A high-current switching supply will have discreet components with larger high-current loops, and there is more current going through them, so there is more phase delay in the feedback, making more ripple. The current-carrying components are also often less efficient when they are designed to catty a high current. This can be mitigated by running multiple synchronized lower-current switching circuits, like most PC motherboards have, but the increased cost and complexity is very rare on bench-top supplies. Running a switching bench-top supply well below its maximum current can also put it in discontinuous mode, which will make it really noisy.
A high-current linear supply is going to be noisy with all but the lowest current draw, because 30% of the power it outputs is stored in a capacitor, so it will have ridiculous amounts of noise at 120 Hz.
If you have a really high-current linear bench-top supply replacing a handful of walll-mount adapters, then it could be lower noise, but you are talking a $100+ supply to replace $10 worth of walll-mount adapters. It will also draw much more power and generate more heat.
If you want to trunk all of your 12 VDC wall adapters into one, instead of a bench-top supply, I recommend getting a 12 V laptop/monitor adapter like this. It's essentially the same thing as the wall-mount adapter, but big enough for the multiple loads.
Someone lit the TSR signal, and thus I am here :P
I bought the Aura bass shakers and a Lepai LP-168HA 2.1 2 x 40-Watt Amplifier. My Bass shaker is rated for 50W, where the Lepai amp only comes with a 3A PSU, so I picked up a 6A PSU on the recommendation of someone in this subreddit, and it's been working fine (hasn't burned up or anything). I'm currently attaching it to a ford cobra seat, but just from the limited test use I've done so far, it works great. Definitely shakes my entire apartment when I turn it up.
The entire kit came out to about $90 after shipping, which I figured was a great price. I've seen someone recommend getting 4 amps and 4 transducers and mounting them on the corners of my seat, then running SimVibe to simulate each wheel independently, but I haven't tried that personally. Nor have I tried the actual brandname buttkicker, so I can't say how this solution compares. But I will say it adds a huge amount of immersion to Assetto Corsa.
EDIT: Oops, forgot the parts list:
AuraSound AST-2B-4 Pro Bass Shaker Tactile Transducer by Aura Sound - http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002ZPTBI/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_VjzVtb1MV70BA
Lepai LP-168HA 2.1 2 x 40-Watt Amplifier and 1x68W Sub Output by Lepai - http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0070Z87YO/ref=asc_df_B0070Z87YO3169620?smid=A385A0XNQBW8HY&tag=pgmp-401-100-20&linkCode=df0&creative=395109&creativeASIN=B0070Z87YO
12v 6a Adapter Power Supply for LCD Monitor with Power Cord by LCD AC Power Adapter - http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TUMDWG/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_tlzVtb1TKD73K?tag=viglink20241-20
Note, You'll also need a 12v power supply like this... http://amzn.com/B003TUMDWG
I am hardly an expert, but I have been researching this too. The cheapest DIY option I have found are the $5 light strips from Hong Kong, the 5630 SMD LEDs, These need to be powered with 72W power supplies, that sell on Amazon for about $8.
I heard the subpac was good too, as was the buttkicker. But the subpac is expensive and the buttkicker was sold out lol so I bought the budget tactile feedback rig (Recommended by another /r/oculus member.) which included these three things. It also took a few wires and some tweaking but after mounting it to a chair, I love it
No
I bought one of these a few weeks back to power 1 gridseed. At the time it was a prime item and about $8 works great http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TUMDWG/ref=oh_details_o08_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If you really don't want to buy anything, you could power that off an old computer power supply. On the big connector, short the green wire to a black wire, so the power supply turns on when switched on, and from one of the power connectors, connect a yellow (+12V) to your positive, and the black to your ground.
Granted, 12V 6A power supplies are $10 with prime shipping from amazon. So that might make more sense.
Edit: for example http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TUMDWG
http://www.amazon.com/LCD-AC-Adapter-3-Prong-Power/dp/B003TUMDWG/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1452907243&sr=8-4&keywords=12v+dc+power+supply
I've bought a few of these -- they're pretty good for $9:
http://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Power-Supply-LCD-Monitor/dp/B003TUMDWG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1417995581&sr=8-2&keywords=12v+power+supply
Battery chargers can be weird. They don't just output some voltage, they follow a charging algorithm for batteries, which isn't what you want to power a simple load.
This is what I’ve been including with all of my recent builds: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TUMDWG
I’ve had a lot of problems with the cheapo eBay junk.
Someone recommended this once.
So I'm assuming it's the right connector.
Chanzon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073QTNF9F) is the one that I used. I just ordered the Kastar (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TUMDWG/) - it should arrive tomorrow. I'll try that and report back!
I bought this one: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TUMDWG/ref=pe_385040_30332200_TE_item
This setup is amazingly cheap ($80 to $90) and powerful...
http://amzn.com/B0002ZPTBI
http://amzn.com/B0070Z87YO
http://amzn.com/B003TUMDWG
All it takes is one to make a huge difference. Great with headphones on.
OK thanks, I took the plunge and also ordered this power supply http://amzn.com/B003TUMDWG I read about in another thread for $13 on amazon.
I think i was using the wrong adapter by accident. Just bought this, hopefully everything works better after. Should i wire the speakers individually to each channel?
I had been operating the chamber as a son of a fermentation chiller for a while. To upgrade it, I got a regular computer heatsink for inside, a liquid pump heatsink to pipe the heat outside, a 77-watt cooler, and a 6A power supply (the cooler actually pulls around 4.5A). I used the same cooler to repair a broken Craigslist wine fridge, which has better insulation and can hit the mid-50s.
I haven't tested the SOFC too much since the redesign, and I just started my first beer in it. But to be safe during active fermentation, I just stuck some ice bottles in the chamber as usual. The airflow isn't as good as it was before, because now I'm using a fan with a heatsink on it rather than a case fan, but it seems to be working okay. At least until I left the lid ajar this morning... (Fortunately it's a Belgian!)
I didn't have good luck with mine (sounded like a capacitor couldn't hold charge, but I didn't open it up), but others have had their noise issues fixed with a three prong NEMA power brick, like so:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TUMDWG/
I use this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TUMDWG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AS8PCMKEL4RLT
Worked great until it died when I was charging at max power. Getting a 2nd one.
watch out for good deals on gridseeds. You can get them for 40-50 bucks right now.
I'm using this power supply
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TUMDWG/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This splitter
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JG7HO52/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Amazonbasics 7port USB hub which was for sale on amazon for $18.99
Hooked up to my win7 machine running CGminer, might go to raspberry pi route soon just to get it out of my room. As I said, I don't pay for power so ya... otherwise ROI would be basically unattainable which it pretty much is anyway.
You CANNOT DUAL MINE with this setup. SCRYPT ONLY, Absolutely NO SHA-256. power supply with splitter works, simply because gridseeds use such little power in scrypt only mode.
http://i.imgur.com/G502RoU.png
I use this charger and this power supply.
This would work fine:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TUMDWG
I use the accucell 6. cheap, seems to work well. charge times are as expected, but the post about parallel charging from u/fryfrog seems to speed that up.
I use this power supply http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TUMDWG/ref=oh_details_o07_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The receiver gets its power from the server leads that go from the receiver pins to the receiver itself.
You do not need additional power for the receiver from an ESC.
ALso for charger I bought
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00466L0BW/ref=oh_details_o06_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It will work with batteries up to 6s.
It does not come with an AC adapter so I had to buy this as well
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TUMDWG/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
They seem to work well together.
Appreciate the info! That’s what I’m struggling with. The guide mentioned 5a for first builds, but if I’m better off with 6a and going the MOSFET route, I’d rather know now. On that subject, what do you think of this?
Power supply
Kastar AC Adapter, Power Supply 12V 6A 72W https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TUMDWG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vTD0DbWRDYN6
Switch
API-ELE [3 year warranty] All New Design 10 Amp 22mm Latching Push Button Switch 12V Angel Eye LED https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q65BMGS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_YYD0Db02QYZ2Y
With this setup do I still need the MOSFET?
Thanks!
Here's what I found: Amplifier, Battery, Power Supply, I recommend you put a switch between the amp and the battery, and you will also need a heat sink of some sort for the amplifier.
Depending on the solenoid it'll probably take more current than a normal 9V battery can provide.
If it doesn't need to be portable, there's plenty of options for cheap 12v power supplies.
If it's going in a car you'll want to just run the wires from the battery.
If for some reason you need it to be portable and don't want to plug it in you're going to need a decent sized battery. If it's a small enough solenoid (i.e. an amp or two max) you could get a battery holder. There's also plenty of 12V RC batteries.
One last question, what does it mean when it says 5A stall? What's stall? The power supplies I found seemed too big for such a small motor. From what I know, the voltage has to be the same (12v) but the A can be bigger than required without going under. Thanks a lot for your help!
edit: this is one I found: http://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Power-Supply-LCD-Monitor/dp/B003TUMDWG/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1421305179&sr=8-5&keywords=12v+5A
Power supply seems a bit weak. Why don’t you get a 6A power supply? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TUMDWG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
4 of these - you could use cardboard to save more money - $32
1 of these - $5
1 of these - $22
1 of these - $8
Optional: $10 PWM controller for the blower.
So under $50 with cardboard, a bit over $50 with acrylic.
I used this power supply with my DIY build and I've had no issues: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TUMDWG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_W32HDbPN1BR2V
With that said, I'm using a MOSFET board controlled by a momentary button, so the load on mine at the PSU may be different.
You'll also need:
I've linked some budget options for each.
Is this a Lepai add on or just any old 6amp power supply like this? Sorry if that's a dumb question, just want to make sure I get it right. I appreciate the help.
Finding a good one plug & play will be more difficult.
Here is a 6 amp one. you could try.
So I've also just noticed that my DC -> AC adapater does not have a ground prong, and looks like this. It's now leading me to believe this could be causing me some serious power problems. I am thinking to purchase something like this instead. Do you think that has any protection from voltage drop?
This is what I ordered: 12v 6a Adapter Power Supply for LCD Monitor with Power Cord by LCD AC Power Adapter
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TUMDWG/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_Hn2ptb15C8T5B
That's what I got.
I have not used the power supply and consider you likely need more amps.
Another option are the LP168S amps I use in my lounge, they have 2x40w bass output: https://www.ebay.com/itm/LP168S-Car-Amplifier-Audio-Stereo-2-1-HiFi-Channel-2x40W-Sub-Output-Super-Bass-/301943399029?rmvSB=true
And take a common 12V power convertor like this, you may even have some of these around as they are common for many 12V devices: https://www.amazon.com/Kastar-Adapter-Monitor-Wireless-Security/dp/B003TUMDWG/ref=pd_bxgy_23_img_3/147-8395938-1729948?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=JXD0AG6CA2S5NEDJ0X9V&dpID=51GD35m3vPL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail
I have a simple cheap setup that i use for VR flight and racing sims. It provides a nice rumble, granted it's not as precise as something like simvibe but it gets the job done.
i have the following hardware:
Then i just use voicemeeter banana to sort out the audio. - https://www.vb-audio.com/Voicemeeter/banana.htm
I take the headphone/soundcard audio + VR HMD audio and route it to the voicemeeter virtual VAIO device, and make that the default audio device in windows. Also, I limit the bass frequencies on the output that goes to the amp/shakers using Voicemeeter EQ.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TUMDWG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_c8ivDbB8AP6VT
Okay this is the one that Amazon said is "frequently bought" with the IH module and it says 6 A, do you think it would be adequate or should I just get a 10 A? Im trying to keep the build as inexpensive as possible
Helpfully, the 3rd image on this listing gives exact dimensions of the barrel. If they measure the same you should be good to go!
The cheapest thing to create on your computer is by far the most expensive to restore. If your hard drive fails, professionals can recover data, but that typically starts at about $700.
You need redundancy. That means a minimum of 2 hard drives (RAID 1).
Be aware that if you want to do the same thing to a future Blu Ray collection, it can add up really fast. I've started ripping HD DVD and Blu Ray movies to my server about 9 months ago after a drive failed on me, and I've already filled up nearly 2TB in videos.
Finally, I really recommend that if you plan on leaving your server on 24/7, you do everything you can to reduce its idle power consumption. If you pay 11.4c/kW*hr, then each watt your computer consumes costs you $1 per year. It wasn't that long ago that a common desktop could take up 150W idle, but my home server uses a mere 23W. You can cut out about 20W of overhead by using a picoPSU and DC power adapter. If 72W isn't enough, you can also go for a more expensive 192W model that should be able to handle anything you'll use with the server.
Building for low power consumption on a server will often save you $40-100 per year in electricity bills.