Reddit mentions: The best rv levelers

Battery operated column candles. I got mine from Ikea but have seen similar at Costco. I like the warm tone of them, they turn on and off with a shake, so they're really nice to have bedside. Bright but not glaring. They feel like having candles, without the risk of burning down the camper.

Oh, and OMG, this thing is a must for RVs, tent trailers, etc: Andersen Hitches 3604 x2 | 2-Pack Camper Leveler & Chock Set | Best Camper Leveling Kit | RV Leveling https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LYQ1Z8S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_pMMjzb05ST2TK

I don't know how anyone levels anything without it. Worth every penny for how quickly it makes setup.

The Coleman two sided camp sink was also a good buy.

...I could go on. I love camping gear.

I also have a kid and a popup. http://i.imgur.com/Cltv8qq.jpg. we love it. I plan on doing a spring over for more ground clearance. Yours looks great. After you use it a couple of times you will learn what works and what's not needed. Here are a few of my recommendations. The bal leveler is great https://www.amazon.com/BAL-28050-Light-Trailer-Leveler/dp/B000BH5MAA. This and installing a T level gauge on the tongue will make leveling the trailer super easy. We got a bunch of plastic bins from home depot to store all our supplies in. They are all the same so the stack and work great for storage. If you know you can fill the water tank at our near your camp site tow it empty and fill it there. That will save a lot of dead weight. If I can think of more I'll post again. Enjoy it man. Camping with the family is great. Good memories will be made

The concept is pretty simple -- you dig a trench, line it with filter fabric, and fill the bottom couple inches up with gravel. Then you set your pipe in, establishing a 1° slope towards where it exits, and fill it the rest of the way up with gravel. Fold the end of the filter fabric over the top of the gravel trench, and then cover the top with whatever decorative landscaping you like. In my case I made a rock garden over the part of it, and a flagstone path over the other portion. This write-up on WikiHow is a good primer.

Some things to note:

• Some people will tell you to put your pipe in with the perforations facing up. Those people are wrong. Water will fill the gravel trench until it enters the drain pipe through the perforations, and the lower they are the better a job your drain will do of de-watering the soil above it.
  
• You can use corrugated pipe or PVC to build your drain. Each has pros and cons, but the upshot is that corrugated is cheaper, quicker, and easier to install. Some versions even come with a large-diameter filter sock packed full of styrofoam peanuts already wrapping them, so all you have to do is dig your trench and chuck it in. Rigid PVC pipe is harder to install, since you have to dig perfectly straight trenches and cut it to length and attach fittings at every turn. However, it will be easier to set a slope with it, it will last longer (smooth pipe walls mean that sediment can't find an easy niche to collect in) and if it does clog, you can snake it clean without it getting shredded like corrugated would.
  
• Setting the pipe at a slope is important for longevity of the system. You can install it flat, but it will silt up faster if you do. It's also something you can't really eyeball, and traditional methods for setting a slope are a PITA. I rigged up a cheap and simple method to ensure I was getting the right slope by purchasing one of these trailer leveling gauges and attached it to my level in order to get a precise slope measurement.
  
• If you're using PVC, be sure to include a cleanout somewhere so you can maintain and repair the system. Depending on how you build it (corrugated vs. PVC, slope, filter fabric installation) the drain can last from 10 to 30 years before it silts up and stops working, but with a cleanout you can extend that lifespan further.
  
• Sketch out the routing for your drain and use your measurements to figure out how much material you'll need. If the drain close to your foundation, you can also measure the amount of grade change you have to work with by measuring from the ground to the top of your foundation or the first course of siding. On a flat lot, you may not be able to get 1° of slope all the way through.
  
• You're going to need a lot of gravel. If you're hand-digging the trench, figure that it's going to end up about a foot wide. That means that for every foot of depth, you need two 50-lb bags per foot of length. I ended up putting about 2000 lbs of gravel in mine, and that was before I added the rock garden on top. If you have a truck, you can save some money here by buying in bulk from a landscape supply house rather than in bags.
  
• You're also going to have a lot of extra dirt afterwards. If you need to regrade around the house to establish positive drainage, now is the time. If you don't have a place to put fill dirt, you'll need to have it hauled away. In my case, my neighbor needed all the fill I could give him for his own landscaping projects, so I didn't have to worry about it.

We toyed with that idea but the amount of hardware and space it was going to take up just wasn't worth it.

When camping, we can usually position the van in a way that is level-ish, or with our heads slightly raised. It's actually not too hard to do this with a small van in most boondocking sites. We can double our flexibility by sleeping with our heads on the opposite side of the bed as well.

You can also get trailer levelers like these which are micro-adjustable. I've seen them used for tow behinds quite successfully.

But the bed idea sounds cool if you can manage it!

oh yeah, and if he slaps one of these on a flat part of his saw, it is great for training a person to get nice, level backcuts and pies.

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-25543-T-Level/dp/B000EDSSDO/ref=pd_lpo_263_bs_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=52VWB27B15RKJRTB0J66

I used one for log home construction, (cutting in windows) but decided to keep it on my saw because it was fun to check myself to see how level and square i could get my saw.

Excellent choice. You could have saved money and gone with another product but you did it properly. :D

Here are some items I have that I love using;

LevelMate Pro

Progressive Industries Surge Protector

Andersen Jack Blocks

I also want to purchase the Anderson Leveling kit as I have a standard leveling kit and it sucks.

Any first time plans? RV site near home or living in the backyard?

I use a tire leveling jack like this: https://www.amazon.com/BAL-28050-Light-Trailer-Leveler/dp/B000BH5MAA/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=trailer+tire+jack&qid=1565620404&s=gateway&sr=8-9

It's a little more manual labor, but there is no guessing and checking if it's level, then moving the vehicle. The tire is very securely in place, so you don't have to chock that, and it can handle a fairly decent slope.

I don't think it would work very well for an RV or something heavy, but for a light trailer it works well.

Not a solution, but it might help you get there: Get a bulls eye level to help you get it flat.

Most trailers only have stabilizing jacks. They just prevent movement while you are walking around the trailer. We bought these levelers. They are super easy to use.

Youtube video

When we had our trailer these things made it super easy to level it up.

Make your own. First, get some small vial levels... Amazon has these

Chuck a long, dead-straight, rod (or large bit) into your drill. Clamp the drill onto your bench or other stable platform such that you can check for level on the length of the rod/bit with a small level. Once you have the bit level, you can then attach a vial level to the top of the drill. I used a few washers and some hot melt glue to align and set the vial on my drill. It was good enough for what I needed, but it did not hold up for very long. Might work for you.

Edit: Basically, I made my own, more stable version of this

If you have an RV fridge, keeping that level is probably one of the important factors (see http://www.doityourselfrv.com/know-rig-level-enough-rv-refrigerator-work-properly/), and you may want to place a bullseye level there to make sure that is level and not just on the floor.

Something like: https://www.amazon.com/Camco-25573-Bullseye-Level/dp/B000EDSSDY

This. +1 for the boom attachment that lets your put your camera almost anywhere.

Also it doesn't hurt to attach a cheap bubble level to your rig so you can confirm that your camera is horizontal.

Add a hairband and a binder clip to attach your tether cable to your shirt to ease the tension of the weight of the cable pulling at the back of your head and you've pretty much nailed my setup.

I switched us over to the Anderson levelers and love them. FWIW, were in a 31’ Apex.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001GC2LVM/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_fH9MDbV7X16X9

Do yourself a huge favor and buy this instead - Trailer Tire Leveler

Look up the "Bal RV leveler". I spent a couple of years driving on and off of blocks until I found this thing. Look for one somewhere at a decent price and then grab one. You can pretty much pull into any unlevel lot, toss that thing in and be level in minutes. That used to be the most frustrating part of the journey for me.

https://www.amazon.com/BAL-28050-Light-Trailer-Leveler/dp/B000BH5MAA/ref=sr_1_3?crid=32ACOBN2CM89R&keywords=bal+leveler&qid=1564579078&s=gateway&sprefix=bal%3B+%2Caps%2C181&sr=8-3

Best investment you will make.

I use leveling ramps kinda like these: https://www.amazon.com/Leveler-Andersen-Minutes-Levelers-Leveling/dp/B01LYQ1Z8S

Or sometimes cut up 2x10s.

But I don't need it very level, and even like the bed raised a bit at one end.

Personally I am a fan of the Andersen camper leveler ( https://www.amazon.com/Andersen-Hitches-3604-Camper-Leveler/dp/B001GC2LVM/ref=mp_s_a_1_14?keywords=andersen+camper+leveler&qid=1564574872&s=gateway&sprefix=Andersen+cam&sr=8-14)

https://www.amazon.com/Leveler-Andersen-Minutes-Levelers-Leveling/dp/B01LYQ1Z8S these.

https://www.amazon.com/BAL-28050-Light-Trailer-Leveler/dp/B000BH5MAA

There's the cheaper other ones toward the bottom of the page.

Look for a single axel locking chock or a Bal single axle leveling jack. This will reduce movement from the wheels moving.
BAL 28050 Light Trailer Tire Leveler https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BH5MAA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_PgjnDbAFSK55S

BAL 28020 Single Axle Tire Chock https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001UGPEJA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_MhjnDbYSRYTW1