(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best saw blades, parts & accessories

> As for disks for wood, theres these but ive only used the first link. I know they say theyre for paint, but they work great for sanding wood. They leave a decent finish. I used mine for sanding wheel wells on a skateboard. I found them at walmart for 2.50 a disk. They dont last long. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QLWHZLS/

Have you ever used a 'flap disc'? So far I've found a 36g flap disc to be fastest, I've used abrasives similar to what you link but not that coarse (like you say though, they'd wear-out fast - I know they're cheap, but my ultimate projects involve removing lots of wood so I want something that's long-term not disposable)

>https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000O3IOEW/

I'd seen the chainsaw-type discs but only today did I start seeing these fixed-tooth (circular-saw style) discs, they're certainly priced-right but I think those are more for cutting a branch off a tree, whereas I'm looking to remove large areas (like, remove a softball's worth of wood from a specific spot), so the toothing on a chainsaw disc seemed my best bet and was what I'd planned until I saw these discs with rasps, I get the impression that, with the coarse option, that these beasts would remove material about as fast as a chainsaw-edged disc would but they have '3D' control, like I can really work shapes with those whereas a chainsaw-type disc only works on its edge/perimeter..

>Theres also this awesome but insanely priced turbo plane https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008NA2IJ0/

Yeah Arbortech is crazy expensive, I've seen a 'turbo shaft' that I think is for use with that planer, or maybe a smaller diameter planer by them, but it puts the disc ~3" away from the grinder - neat gear for sure but wayyyy out of my price range, am quite happy with my cheap stuff so far and, once I find the right disc for my angle-grinder I'm sure I'll be set (as I've got a die-grinder for smaller/detail work, so this is just for 'roughing-out' my cuts, then I'd switch to using rasps on my die-grinder to finish a project :) )

>The kutzall disks and lancelot seem like the best deal to me. Harbor freight sells a chain disk like that btw.

The HF chain disc isn't that much cheaper than a real lancelot and since the lancelot's chain is not fixed (it's sandwiched between two plates, so far less likely to ever kick-back) I'd sooner go with the Lancelot - but the kutzall and saburrtooth rasp-discs seem like they may be a better choice than a chainsaw disc, just wish I knew how much wood they remove / how efficient they are compared to the chainsaw-type!

>I would recommend a dewalt corded grinder, it will last a lifetime.

Already got cheapie HF gear, am approaching it with the mindset that this is just for getting into it, for learning - once I've had some experience I'll know what's best for me and can then comfortably buy brand-name gear (I got my die- and angle-grinder for less than I'd pay for a dewalt grinder... I know there's a huge quality difference, but so far as performance goes I'm nothing but satisfied with both of my grinders and I don't even have the best attachments yet! So as far as I'm concerned, it just makes sense to use these til they fail and then upgrade, will be in a much better spot to do so at that point!

Thanks a ton for the help, really means a lot!!

Hard to say for sure without knowing his shop, so you'd probably want to try to scope out any recommendations for specific stuff to see if he already has something similar before you buy.

A good suggestion that I think always works well for any budget is to go to a local hardwood dealer and just pick out a selection of interesting exotic lumber, any woodworker will always appreciate getting cool woods to use in their projects.

If you want to have some ideas for stocking stuffers / tools though I'll list some cool things that I think are not super common that I enjoy owning or make my life easier.

Tiny-T Pocket rule

6" precision t rule

A really nice miter gauge

Router setup bars

A nice marking knife

Marking gauge

Magports

Tapeboss

Grr-ripper

Dozuki & Ryoba

Alexa (Alexa, what is 5 and 3/8 times 16... Alexa set reminder for 30 minutes to spray the second coat... Alexa order shop towels... etc, it's actually really useful, and it plays music too)

Shop apron

Quick sanding strips

Digital Angle Gauge

Digital Height Gauge

Anything from Woodpeckers is pretty much guaranteed to be great, albeit kinda pricey

Assuming you are starting from the ground up and need everything, it's going to be tight and you'll have to skimp in some places, but this is exactly what I would do. The grand total here is $5005.00 and that includes shipping on the big ticket items which is a few hundred dollars.

Table saw and related stuff:

[Grizzly G0715xp] (http://www.grizzly.com/products/10-Hybrid-Table-Saw-with-Riving-Knife-Polar-Bear-Series-/G0715P)

Freud Premier Fusion

[Freud SD208] (http://www.amazon.com/Freud-SD208-8-Inch-Professional-Dado/dp/B0000223O9/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395407011&sr=8-1&keywords=freud+sd208)

Gr Ripper 3d advanced (awesome on the router table too

Make your own ZCI's

Table Saw Total - $1,142

Jointer

Grizzly G0654 6" jointer (sell this on craigslist when you can upgrade to the 8". They hold their value really well and sell fast)

Jointer total $534.00

Planer

Dewalt DW734 - $399.99 most places. The 735 is nice, but not that much nicer. If I were to upgrade beyond the 734, I'd go for a 15" stationary unit.

Miter saw

Definitely go craigslist on this one. These things are a dime a dozen there. You can get a sliding 12" Dewalt/Makita/Ridgid, etc for around 250.00 to 300.00 Also pick up a decent Irwin Marples or Diablo blade

SCMS total - ~320.00

Bandsaw:

Craftsman BAS350. I own this. It's the SAME EXACT saw as the Rikon 10-321, just 200.00 cheaper. 8" resaw capacity and no stupid riser blocks to fuck up the geometry of your saw and make tensioning a nightmare.

Bandsaw Total - 620.00 with the Rikon resaw fence (bolt on) and a few timberwolf blades

Harbor Freight 2hp Dust collector, a lot of hoses, blast gates, and material to mod it to a 2 stage cyclone - 400.00

Router(s)

Bosch 1617 with both plunge and fixed bases

MLCS 15 bit set. Not the best, but better than absolutely anything else in this price range. Replace bits with Whiteside or Amanna when you have the cash.

Router and bits total 200.00

Also make your own table and fence to fill the empty space in your table saw.

Sanding

{Milwaukee 6021-21 Random Orbit Sander. Best ROS on the market until you go Festool/Ceros

Some klingspor abrasives in different grits

Shop vac bucket max and a 5gal bucket - perfect for sanders

Ridgid oscilating spindle sander. This is a tool I could definitely not live without after owning.

Sanding total - $320.00

Drill Press

Porter cable floor press

Also get the Porter Cable Forstner bit set and some decent brad points/twists)

Drill Press/bits total - ~$420.00

Clamps

Jorgensen Cabinet Master 4pc Set and various other bar clamps. The Pittsburgh ones from HF are pretty good

Clamps total ~ $250.00

Misc stuff

Woodriver bench chisels.

A vintage stanley block plane, and a jack plane

some plywood/melamine, and cheap hardwood and hardware to make a cross cut sled, router table/fence. drill press table, a workable bench/outfeed table and a grizzly woodworking end vise

Misc total - ~400.00

Its good to blow out your grinder now and then, although you dont need to do it often unless youre cutting masonry. Take the cover off on the back of the shaft of the grinder. Youll see a ring and pinion gear that make it an 'angle' grinder vs a straight grinder. Put your grease there. When the grinder gets warm the grease will become thinner and coat the gears.

As for disks for wood, theres these but ive only used the first link. I know they say theyre for paint, but they work great for sanding wood. They leave a decent finish. I used mine for sanding wheel wells on a skateboard. I found them at walmart for 2.50 a disk. They dont last long.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QLWHZLS/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000O3IOEW/

Theres also this awesome but insanely priced turbo plane
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008NA2IJ0/

The kutzall disks and lancelot seem like the best deal to me. Harbor freight sells a chain disk like that btw.

I would recommend a dewalt corded grinder, it will last a lifetime.

Edit: my reason for getting dewalt tools is theyre made in usa. They have 7 facilities in america. I have the 11 amp angle grinder, die grinder, 12 amp sawzall, and impact driver and drill and all of them are made in usa. Some products arent made in usa though. Also their grinders have built in dust ejection.

I have the 4512 as well. The fence is great, and the table itself is solid, flat, and level. I took my time on assembling the fence rails to make sure they were properly level, which was well worth it.

I've upgraded two things on it though. First off, I bought a good blade. That is going to be a need for pretty much every saw you find. I got this one.

The second was the miter gauge. The handle that locks in the angle isn't attached well to the pin. So I popped the handle off by tightening a bit too much and couldn't get it to stay on again. If you're careful it should work fine. I replaced it with an incra model which is far and away more precise.

edit for formatting.

I have a tool bag for in the house. I keep all the usual items. I can take a picture of it for ya when I get home.

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https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DG5543-Inch-Tradesmans-Tool/dp/B001P30BO6/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=dewalt+tool+bag&qid=1563036747&s=gateway&sr=8-3

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Out in the garage the other post got it right with the Harbor Freight tool Chests. You can't go wrong with them. They will hold up and last you forever.

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You want to keep stuff off the floor so I would recommend these

https://www.samsclub.com/p/members-mark-4-shelf-industrial-storage-rack/prod22160218?xid=plp_product_1_3

they are 2 Feet deep so can hold a lot.

If you buy two you can actually fill up a whole wall.

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I like these as parts organizers in my garage, Milwaukee makes good ones also. You don't want to go cheap on these, it is a bad day when you go to carry it somewhere and the latch breaks and spills out 1000 screws

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https://www.amazon.com/DeWalt-DWST14825-10-Compartment-Organizer-Metal/dp/B00AUVX394/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3DS66NM6H7SBY&keywords=dewalt+storage+organizer&qid=1563037131&s=gateway&sprefix=dewalt+storage%2Caps%2C224&sr=8-4

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I use one like this in the house to hold small parts

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-25-Removable-Compartment-Professional-Organizer/dp/B00005QWYF/ref=sr_1_37?keywords=parts+organizer&qid=1563037496&s=gateway&sr=8-37

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Now for stuff I feel will change your life.

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If you do any electrical work, or for changing face plates. This screwdriver will change your life.

https://www.amazon.com/Interchangeable-Screwdriver-Klein-Tools-67100/dp/B003FC75YE/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=klien+screwdriver+fast&qid=1563037724&s=gateway&sr=8-7

I saw a electrician using it and I had to go buy one.

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I always have multiple sizes of these in the garage. They work great for hanging or fixing anything.

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https://www.homedepot.com/p/Deck-Mate-8-x-2-in-Star-Flat-Head-Wood-Deck-Screws-5-lbs-Pack-2DMT5/305418729

I just order Star bits instead of buying a bit set with a bunch a bits I don't use.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XYS26HQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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If you have a sawzall and some trees you need to trim these will saw through a 4 inch branch like it is butter.

https://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-PC760R-9-Inch-Pruning-Reciprocating/dp/B005DYMRA4/ref=pd_rhf_ee_s_rp_c__1/130-4777576-0899065?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B005DYMRA4&pd_rd_r=b176538d-8b66-4ae2-ae89-92e5aef62a85&pd_rd_w=eLDwX&pd_rd_wg=Z1XlH&pf_rd_p=4b985ee3-c51c-45b0-b742-d73501cbd701&pf_rd_r=7T9YW21VA3QFF00GFKS4&psc=1&refRID=7T9YW21VA3QFF00GFKS4

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These are great stud finders. They find the drywall screws that go in to the studs.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IKK0OI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I installed 3 of these in my garage and the light output is amazing.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078B7KG1R/ref=dp_cerb_1

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can't think of anything else right now.

They're typically not common or even available at Lowe's/HD. You'd probably have better luck at a Menards, or a Woodcraft if you've got one nearby.

Otherwise, Amazon has pretty much all the Freud blades you could ever want.. here's a 50t with a flat cut: https://www.amazon.com/Freud-Tooth-Combination-Blade-LU84R011/dp/B0000225V8

...yes it's not $30, but Freud blades are pretty good and it should last you a good long while.

I have the big brother to that table saw (DWE7491RS) because I needed portability too. I only really use it for woodworking, it's not ideal (mainly because of the small table) but still a great saw given the fact I can fold it up and store it in my shed.

I got this Freud blade for it after a little bit of research. If you're doing fast rough cuts it's probably better to get something else. This one still cuts fairly fast but the finish it leaves is absolutely beautiful. It's Freud's newest "multi-purpose" blade. One thing to consider is the kerf width of the blade versus the thickness of the Dewalt riving knife. This Freud is a thin kerf and is barely thick enough for the riving knife (by about 2 thousandths on each side). You MUST have the blade aligned well with the riving knife (not hard to do). Once it's aligned, it's very safe though, no play for the board to hit the back teeth and cause kickback. No binding either if you have it aligned correctly.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0036CANUQ/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I built mine from scratch for aroun $20 (minus cost of jigsaw). Heres how.

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Buy this: https://www.amazon.com/Reciprotools-RCT-A10-Reciprocating-Saw-Adapter/dp/B001CNHDR2/ref=sr_1_5?crid=1TH3RD5RZNXDS&keywords=jigsaw+adapter+massager&qid=1554393001&s=gateway&sprefix=jigsaw+adapt%2Caps%2C143&sr=8-5

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Get desired balls. I used a lax and golf ball so I have two. Drill a hole about halfway into both the balls (its super easy). You want to use a drill bit that is about the size of a regular 2-3in bit youd put on your drill. Something like this https://www.lowes.com/pd/DEWALT-Tough-Grip-5-Piece-2-in-2-Phillips-Shank-Screwdriver-Bit/999928876

You can pick up a pack of 4/5 for under $5. Make sure you get the ones with the hex end otherwise it wont fit in the attachement.

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Ok, Drill hole halfway thorugh ball, squirt some krazy glue in hole, hammer bit phillips head side IN, wait for it to set, then attach to the attachment and voila, you have just created it yourself.

Here's why these questions are really hard to answer. Consumers tend to only have experience with one or two of these type of saws because they're expensive and good ones last for ages. A consumer will buy one; either they like it enough not to buy another, or very rarely they hate it enough to the point where they get a second one and that's the only one they ever use. Contrast this with something cheaper like a jig saw or a orbital sander where a random consumer might have gone through three over the course of a decade and have two at any given time.

Second we have no idea what you want it for, or what workspace you're setting it up in. One guy on here recommended a portable contractor saw. That might be a good recommendation if you have very limited space or if you want to throw it in a truck every once in a while. But every just about every portable saw will be lighter and less accurate than an equivalent stationary saw. So it's only the right call for you under a very specific set of circumstances.

Now with that grain of salt I can tell you that I bought the R4512 in march after a good bit of research. I paid 400 after the harbor freight coupon. It runs smoothly and I can get accurate rips and cross cuts. I was able to get the blade square without too much trouble and it hasn't moved since I did my initial setup. the anti kickback pawls and blade guard are easy to remove and install.

Like just about any saw the blade was much crappier than a $30 aftermarket combination blade so regardless of what saw you buy I'd recommend you upgrade that. The biggest drawback of the R4512 for me is the fence. It's a piece of shit and it's hard to keep it perfectly square. This is where relative advice is useful. Most people that use this saw will tell you they hate the fence, but the same people will also tell you they'll never touch a contractor saw or a low end craftsman saw. So keep that in mind when comparing it to other saws. if you're budget is $700 and you can buy the r4512 and upgrade the fence to something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Vega-PRO-50-Table-System/dp/B000022622/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1376446516&sr=8-1&keywords=table+saw+fence

Good luck and let us know when you choose a saw and when you make something on it.

There are several reasons that you might be getting burning when you rip. Is your fence aligned with the blade? The blade could be dirty, or dull.

I got this CMT combination blade, and think it excellent. It cuts cleanly on rip and crosscuts. It handles thick stock very well. I do keep a dedicated rip blade, though. I use it for ripping thick, hard stock.

To answer the last question, I don't think many woodworkers would pick Diablo as the best blade. It's a decent value, it does fine for hobbyist work, but it's a long way from the best.

I found this product that you can use with a zero clearance insert. It looks like on closer inspection my saw can accept a riving knife but these seem pretty reasonable.

MJ SPLITTER Table Saw Safety Splitter and Riving Knife Alternative for Zero Clearance Insert https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L7KT6PM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_oUS5Bb7J7DGDB

Leecraft makes zero clearance inserts for that saw. You can pick them up on Amazon. You can of course make your own as you were saying, but I went with the pre-made, phenolic ones. They fit my saw perfectly and lasted for years. They make the one in the link below and a dado insert.


http://www.amazon.com/LEECRAFT-RIDGID-R4512-Zero-Clearance-Insert/dp/B0057EANZ6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1414356023&sr=8-2&keywords=rigid+leecraft

I was in a similar spot and opted for the G0555P due to both budget and space issues. I did add the riser and don't have any rigidity issues - the riser is a heavy duty cast chunk of material and bolts tightly. Glad I did - the extra room really helps. I added a Kreg bandsaw fence that I can adjust for drift and a resaw guide, which was a HUGE improvement over the cracker jack fence it comes with. I also added this fancy aftermarket modification to keep from gumming up the tires.

Edit: with a quality blade I haven't had any problems with power on the G0555P when resawing hard maple and mahogany. The blade it comes with is junk after very limited use.

I just bought one and I love that the blades can be installed 4 ways now, and the keyless blade changing is very nice. With the 18v XRP Li-Ion batteries it's easily as powerful as my old corded Portal-Cable. I was using it with a green wood blade the other day to cut up some branches when my chainsaw crapped out on me.

Get the CMT glue line blade for your table saw and yeas the are good they are better than diablo. Actually diablo are just so so.

Edit. The all orange CMT blades are ok inline with diablo.
https://www.amazon.com/CMT-203-030-10-Industrial-Ripping-10-Inch/dp/B000Q93M78 This is the glue line it is absolutely sweet blade

I'm currently using the Freud glue line rip blade https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001V5J4QY?pc_redir=T1 and I just ripped a bunch of maple, walnut, purple heart, cherr and Pau Amarello with minimal burning and a smooth surface. I think that's probably the best blade for that price range.

Just throwing a couple ideas out there. We don't know what tools you have.

If you turn them on their sides, how flat do the faces look? You could do an edge grain board. It will be smaller but thicker. You will have to get a little aggressive when trying get the board flat. Or find someone with a thickness planer.

I have a glue line rip blade on my saw that does a pretty good job.

I think this is the one but I don't think I paid that much for it. I just wanted you to know they exist.

https://www.amazon.com/CMT-203-030-10-Industrial-Ripping-10-Inch/dp/B000Q93M78/ref=sr_1_2?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1536918286&sr=8-2&keywords=cmt+glue+line+rip+blade

The blades came just in time! I used to use a short box saw (seen here) to both harvest the tree and trim the roots. I now use an 18" Corona pruning saw which lasts for a while if I treat it with camellia oil. Last year I brought my reciprocating saw with a wood blade into the swamp and root pruning was a damned sight easier. My friend, Mitch, put me on to pruning blades and I ordered a 5-pack of Bosch blades.

Next year, I want the 21" Corona saw. So, anyone who wants to know what to get me for Christmas, that's it right there.

Tomorrow is SWAMP DAY! WHOO!

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Note: "Just in time" is defined here as "remembering on Monday that I forgot to order the blades and now I need to pay for 2-day shipping".

Instead of an angle grinder you can use a Dremel tool with an abrasive disc or a diamond disc. Basically a tiny angle grinder, about the same cost, but safer, and you need to cut slowly to keep from breaking the very thin discs (but it will cut through steel just fine).

Or a Rotozip - like a larger Dremel tool, but still smaller than a regular angle grinder.

Or an oscillating multi-tool with a metal cutting blade like this. About the same cost as an angle grinder but much safer.

All of those are very versatile tools that have many other uses.

You could also just use a hacksaw blade (32 TPI - Teeth Per Inch) mounted in a cantilever handle or with one end wrapped in tape. The blade flexes enough to push it flat against the concrete as you saw. Use some oil on the blade. This will take awhile and consume several blades but if this is all you want to cut then its by far the cheapest way. Use gloves to keep from scraping your hands against the concrete.

Your saw blade is too fine for that plywood, it makes it wander.

Use a 60-tooth blade, I'd recommend this Diablo, it's great for the price.

A 40 tooth combination blade would work as well; going lower than that will give you chip-out though.

There are some kinds of aftermarket splitter-style solutions.

Like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/SPLITTER-Safety-Splitter-Alternative-Clearance/dp/B00L7KT6PM

I don't know how good that thing is in practice. Certainly not as good as a real solid riving knife/bladeguard combination, but maybe much better than nothing.

Without a riving knife, it's very easy to have horrible accidents.

Just a second of letting attention slip and the wood goes flying and maybe drags your hand into the blade.

With a riving knife and blade guard, you basically have to push your hand actively into the blade from the front.

Which happens, of course, but much less frequently then the kind of kickback-induced accidents that are so frequent without riving knives.

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Freud industrial heavy duty rip. link here it’s giving me some nice clean flat joints.

Metal corner trim under the drywall mud/plaster? I would buy a carbide blade for the oscillating multitool if that's what you're using. I bought a bosch version and have used it a lot. Good for straight clean cuts through almost any material as well as flush cutting.

OH WOW. I should have seen this coming.

The Amazon listing for the ReciproTool Adapter has... quite the list of "customers also purchased..." suggestions.

NSFW: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CNHDR2/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&psc=1&linkCode=sl1&tag=a03c8bf3-20&linkId=7d139999a5d1321736a0670020b022a0

Just get a decent fence and blade for that table saw and it's pretty nice.

Good miter on a TS, or a manual miter saw work well. For clean cuts you need proper crosscut blade. To economize, for this type of shallow cut jobs this blade works very well.

There's nothing saw specific about a push stick, and they are cheap and easy to find. Here's one I like:

http://www.amazon.com/Tool-Designs-10230-Power-Hands/dp/B001C4O92I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405315059&sr=8-1&keywords=table+saw+push+stick

I second this. The thin kerf ones are really nice. I use this one specifically for cutting veneered plywood when I can't use my tablesaw. They have a non-stick coating that makes them rather nice.

If you have a tablesaw then the hands down answer is Forest.

Beyond using scrap wood or 1x2s screwed/clamped down as a guide, you can also buy something like this that's a bit more reusable. This Old House also has a nice method for making your own guide that has proper offsets for both sides of the circular saw base.

A high quality blade will make a big difference. I use freud blades and love them. You could use a general purpose blade if you make both rip and cross cuts. https://www.amazon.com/Freud-LU83R010-10-Inch-Combination-PermaShield/dp/B00020JOAA/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1466877982&sr=8-6&keywords=freud+10+inch+saw+blade
If you make a lot of rip cuts https://www.amazon.com/Freud-LM75R010-10-Inch-8-Inch-Arbor/dp/B001V5J4QY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466878111&sr=8-1&keywords=freud+10+inch+saw+blade+glue+line+rip is amazing.
I use thin kerf as i had a crappy table saw in the past and its easier on the saw.

I haven't looked at the Kreg KMS7102 Table Saw Precision Miter Gauge System yet, but I like that you can add a sacrificial fence and still use the flip stop.

I did look at the Incra MITER1000SE Miter Gauge Special Edition With Telescoping Fence and Dual Flip Shop Stop and INCRA Miter1000/HD Miter Gauge when I went to Rockler awhile back. Though these both have telescoping fences with dual flip stops, it doesn't look like you can add a sacrificial fence and still use the included fence stops. The sacrificial fence would help reduce tear-out.

I use this one from Amazon and love it. It's pretty big but I'm completely in control with my work.

http://smile.amazon.com/Tool-Designs-10230-Power-Hands/dp/B001C4O92I

For the really, REALLY lazy...

FYI, OP's design is excellent and his reasoning really, really sound. I have the one I linked to, because I find the rubber to give me even more control than the home-grown version, but you should at least use that.

I also have a GRIPPR, (which was an Xmas present). I find it too cumbersome to adjust and use for most things (hence the orange one above), but in specialized cases it's wonderful. Probably wouldn't spend the money out of pocket though. (I've been through 15 woodworking Xmases so far, so at this point I put really, really obnoxious stuff on my list).

But how do you cut the pieces for your fence straight without a fence? This is the same problem I ran into building my first workbench!

But seriously, in addition to your good recommendation, OP might also want to consider a circular saw guide like this Kreg one that will allow them to cut perfectly parallel to an existing edge (i.e. ripping), or a simple clamp-on saw guide for crosscuts or anything else <48".

For a blade, buy a high tooth count plywood blade, also called a "finish" blade. This will give you the cleanest cut. Something like this for a circular saw: https://www.amazon.com/Freud-D0760X-Diablo-Finish-4-Inch/dp/B001CZEU0S

Keep in mind that you'll get cleaner cuts and less tear out if you cut with the grain than across in plywood. And yeah, quality plywood is expensive. Shop around and maybe there's a cheaper supplier near you.

One suggestion: since you'll be doing a ton of these, might be worthwhile to buy some cheap plywood and make a couple of test ones and practice before you buy the expensive stuff. For joinery, glue+brads is quite strong, glue+screws would be a little bit stronger but slower to assemble. Personally, I'd use brads. Once you build the carcase and put the full back on it neither will rack.

You have to be careful with the feed rate but using a circular saw blade like this you could probably go straight from the saw cut to sanding.

You would still need a plane or router sled setup to flatten the face of a board.

Kreg bandsaw fence is like 50% off on Amazon

Kreg KMS7200 Bandsaw Fence https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007VYL48/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Hvl4DbKY4KK1N

You'd need to check the saw. If it doesn't, these little plastic things are very helpful: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L7KT6PM/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B00L7KT6PM&pd_rd_wg=z88nE&pd_rd_r=C7HZC8YSW2E73K7JEAE1&pd_rd_w=p8Tm1

Not a Freud but this is my combo blade that almost never comes out of the saw:

https://www.sliversmill.com/product_665_10x40_Tooth_Thin_Kerf_WOODWORKER_II_6_for_NEAR_FLAT_BOTTOM_.html

If I'm ripping hardwood longer than 30 inches and thicker than 4/4, then I switch to:

https://www.amazon.com/Freud-Tooth-Blade-Arbor-LM75R010/dp/B001V5J4QY

Which is a Freud and works very well.

It kind of depends on the saw you have. If it is a portable saw buy the .091 kerf here:https: //smile.amazon.com/Freud-Tooth-Combination-Blade-LU83R010/dp/B00020JOAA/ref=pd_sim_469_13?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=YMMS6DY84H49CKS4C9GW
If it is a bigger saw that can handle the load buy this one:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0000225V8/ref=psdc_552342_t1_B00020JOAA
Both are great blades and the full kerf gives a much better cut on a full size saw but the smaller saws can't handle removing that much material. I use the thin kerf in my "jobsite" saw. I use Freud's 1/8" kerf line of blades in my cabinet saw. You can have them sharpened 3-4 times for about $12 each time.

I've liked the rip cuts I get from my Freud thin kerf rip blades.

http://www.amazon.com/Freud-LM75R010-10-Inch-8-Inch-Arbor/dp/B001V5J4QY/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1421010296&sr=1-2&keywords=freud+thin+rip+blade

http://www.amazon.com/Freud-LU87R010-10-Inch-24-Tooth-PermaShield/dp/B0000225UH/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1421010296&sr=1-1&keywords=freud+thin+rip+blade

The thin blade eats less wood and for underpowered saws like mine works well.
I prefer the FTG blade because it's a little more aggressive and doesn't leave the tiny triangle of wood in the corners if you use it for a non through cut. Not an issue for re saws though.

Check this thing out. I haven't tried mine yet but the videos and reviews seem to suggest it works well.

Kreg KMA2685 Circular Saw Guide https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B073PFYN4T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_h3vY29zonHEnm

Something like This

I personally recommend this blade. I use it for incredibly thin segmenting down to 1/16" using my cross cutting sled and it creates amazingly clean cuts every time. I often use it with acrylic/epoxy/wood hybrid blanks and it cuts so clean that I have to use paper to rough them up before I epoxy segments together.

With any blade I would of course test a scrap piece.

https://www.amazon.com/Kreg-KMA2685-Circular-Saw-Guide/dp/B073PFYN4T/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1550075452&sr=8-3&keywords=kreg+circular+saw+jig

Highly effective at cutting straight lines with a circular saw, also affirm the insulation backer idea, place the plywood on it and cut away.

I highly recommend you buy an aftermarket "t-square" style fence. I have the same saw you do and replaced my fence years ago with a Biesemeyer fence and It made all the deference in the world it's dead on accurate,no more checking with a tape measure before making a cut. It installs in less than an hour . There are several brands that are very similar if not exactly the same as the Biesemeyer that I'm sure would work just as well if not better.
EDIT:
I've heard good things about the vega and it's about half the price .
http://www.amazon.com/Vega-PRO-50-Table-System/dp/B000022622/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1398665608&sr=1-1&keywords=biesemeyer+fence+system

I just don't really see the point of a think kerf blade unless your saw is really underpowered. All of my rip cuts have gotten way better since I switched.

https://www.amazon.com/Freud-24T-Heavy-Duty-Blade-LM72M010/dp/B00004T78V
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000225UD/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have the 4512, and the plates are extremely difficult to make on your own since it is so irregular and gets to be very thin on the sides. I tried and failed many times. Get one of these: Leecraft ZC insert Expensive for an insert, yes, but well worth it in my opinion.

Also, as others have said, you don't screw in the plates, the screws are there to level it. The plate sits on top of the screws.

Where'd you get it from? Is it this one?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B073PFYN4T/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1521496509&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=kreg+tools&dpPl=1&dpID=41iOsl1wvZL&ref=plSrch or this

$64?

http://www.amazon.com/Freud-LU84R011-50-tooth-Combination-PermaShield/dp/B0000225V8

Looks like your question has been answered as to how to do this cheaply. My suggestion involves spending some money. I use the Incra 1000SE as a replacement for my stock miter gauge and it rocks for these kinds of cuts. I used mine last night to cut some angled feet on a series of table legs and it went super fast. I am constantly slapping this thing on the saw and doing repetitive, precise cuts.

I use a Kreg Rip-Cut Guide. The nice thing about it is if you have to make a bunch of cuts of the same width, you just have to measure for the first one, clamp it down and you can quickly do all the rest of your cuts.

the first two blades i purchased for my saw was a freud glue line rip and a freud ultimate crosscut. I used the crappy blade that came with my saw for cutting shop plywood and 2x4s. I recently bought a Freud combo blade that works really well. this is the combo blade I bought. If your tablesaw is under-powered, I recommend a thin kerf rip blade. HTH.

Interesting, I see a lot of videos on this topic including this one and this other one. Would this be a good blade? I also see this thin kerf model, but I have a 3HP table saw and I'm not worried about 1/32" of extra waste, and I assume the non-thin-kerf is more durable.

Same here. My Gripper basically is unused because I cannot find myself comfortable enough to use it with my hands over the blade. I'd actually use my bandsaw to rip anything thinner than 1" (and use my drum sander or planer afterward. Anything wider and I'm using this Big Horn push stick which is stable. So basically, the Gripper is sitting there as paper weight :(

You'll be fine.... I have a 36-725 and use a Freud P410T on it with no problems, it's .091, you just have to make sure it's aligned properly and you'll be all set.

This one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0036CANUQ?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

> 213 series

I'm not familiar with the 213 series. What is the HP of the motor? IS it belt driven? Does it get bogged down when cutting thicker stock? Why are you unhappy with your current saw?

The Powermatic 63 is kinda ugly. The color looks like child vomit. The Vega fence looks like this. There is a pipe in the front, tube in the back and the fence slides between the two. It is very sturdy.

So here's some of what is on my list-- I just copied and pasted over. Some other items to consider would be new saw blades, a low angle block plane, clamps (you can never have too many clamps), featherboards, a table saw thin rip jig, a shop apron, 6 inch metal pocket ruler, keyless chuck for your drill press, and I think that about exhausts my ideas..

Hurricane HTC125 Large Dovetail Jaws ($40)

MJ Splitters for Thin Kerf ($25)

Harbor Freight Pockethole Jig ($50 after 20% coupon-- only buy if you have a coupon)

Coping saw ($5-25)

A pair of holdfasts ($35 +$10S&H)

Edit: Was on phone earlier, added links