Reddit mentions: The best power tool saw blades

> As for disks for wood, theres these but ive only used the first link. I know they say theyre for paint, but they work great for sanding wood. They leave a decent finish. I used mine for sanding wheel wells on a skateboard. I found them at walmart for 2.50 a disk. They dont last long. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QLWHZLS/

Have you ever used a 'flap disc'? So far I've found a 36g flap disc to be fastest, I've used abrasives similar to what you link but not that coarse (like you say though, they'd wear-out fast - I know they're cheap, but my ultimate projects involve removing lots of wood so I want something that's long-term not disposable)

>https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000O3IOEW/

I'd seen the chainsaw-type discs but only today did I start seeing these fixed-tooth (circular-saw style) discs, they're certainly priced-right but I think those are more for cutting a branch off a tree, whereas I'm looking to remove large areas (like, remove a softball's worth of wood from a specific spot), so the toothing on a chainsaw disc seemed my best bet and was what I'd planned until I saw these discs with rasps, I get the impression that, with the coarse option, that these beasts would remove material about as fast as a chainsaw-edged disc would but they have '3D' control, like I can really work shapes with those whereas a chainsaw-type disc only works on its edge/perimeter..

>Theres also this awesome but insanely priced turbo plane https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008NA2IJ0/

Yeah Arbortech is crazy expensive, I've seen a 'turbo shaft' that I think is for use with that planer, or maybe a smaller diameter planer by them, but it puts the disc ~3" away from the grinder - neat gear for sure but wayyyy out of my price range, am quite happy with my cheap stuff so far and, once I find the right disc for my angle-grinder I'm sure I'll be set (as I've got a die-grinder for smaller/detail work, so this is just for 'roughing-out' my cuts, then I'd switch to using rasps on my die-grinder to finish a project :) )

>The kutzall disks and lancelot seem like the best deal to me. Harbor freight sells a chain disk like that btw.

The HF chain disc isn't that much cheaper than a real lancelot and since the lancelot's chain is not fixed (it's sandwiched between two plates, so far less likely to ever kick-back) I'd sooner go with the Lancelot - but the kutzall and saburrtooth rasp-discs seem like they may be a better choice than a chainsaw disc, just wish I knew how much wood they remove / how efficient they are compared to the chainsaw-type!

>I would recommend a dewalt corded grinder, it will last a lifetime.

Already got cheapie HF gear, am approaching it with the mindset that this is just for getting into it, for learning - once I've had some experience I'll know what's best for me and can then comfortably buy brand-name gear (I got my die- and angle-grinder for less than I'd pay for a dewalt grinder... I know there's a huge quality difference, but so far as performance goes I'm nothing but satisfied with both of my grinders and I don't even have the best attachments yet! So as far as I'm concerned, it just makes sense to use these til they fail and then upgrade, will be in a much better spot to do so at that point!

Thanks a ton for the help, really means a lot!!

Proper blade for the task at hand is honestly more important than the brand of blade itself, so long as you aren't going like $10 cheap, but with modern metallurgy and tooling even the cheap stuff can get the job done, just might not be built to super high tollerances and might not stay sharp as long, also not really worth having them sharpened as they are cheap.

What your goal with the tool in question. I find that a lot of people tend to use the tablesaw to get it close to final dimensions, then run an end over the jointer and then through the planer to get proper thickness. If that's the case then you don't need to spend $120 on a forrest glue line rip blade and something like the $50 freud or even a cheaper diablo will be fine.

Personally I use a Forrest 20T ripping blade when I'm batching out a bunch of repetitive rips and want it all glue ready off the saw without the added step of running it over the jointer again, but I've also got a very nice cabinet saw that I know gives me glue ready rips with that blade and it's properly tuned. If I was using a jobsite saw I don't think I'd ever trust it to give glue ready rps off the saw.
On ripping one thing I will say is if you've got an underpowered saw then look at thin kerf blades for ripping hardwood.

That said I've usually got this 40T Freud general purpose combo blade in the saw as it rips and crosscuts fine for the one off things or during a single project.

I've got an 80T chopmaster forrest blade in my miter saw that's great, honestly I'd put the money in this if you're wondering which one to spend money on first. I've found most people cross cut stock to final length on the miter and I've never had an issue with tearout on this.

I had a 48T crosscut Forrest blade that I used to leave in, but got the Freud one for free and honestly I don't notice a difference when cross cutting. Also have a 100T blade meant for veneer or other like materials, but hardly ever use it.

In terms of Circular saws it kind of goes by the same logic. If you ever see a carpenter that does work on site they will probably have a bunch of different blades from very low tooth to high tooth. My circular saw just has a 32T general purpose blade in it and I've never bothered to change it, don't do finish cuts with it and honestly it's mostly only used if I'm doing stuff on site or need to make large initial cuts on timber framing which I'll clean up later. It's the festool branded blades, not sure who manufacturers those for them, but they are pretty good quality.

For my track saw I've got a 16T blade (was what festool offered, I know there are non festool brands that make blades that fit the festool specific arbor though) that's almost exclusively used for ripping slabs, and a 52T blade for when I'm crosscutting slabs or breaking down sheetgoods, although on the sheetgood thing I usually always make final cuts on the tablesaw and just use the tracksaw to make it more manageable to get on the tablesaw.

Finally for Daddo stacks I bit the bullet and bought one of the Forrest Dado kings (they run like $375) when I got my cabinet saw. Have never tried the cheaper brands as the saw I had before my cabinet saw couldn't accept daddo stacks unless I were to modify it.

I don't think you'd regret the Kobalt! It's not going to be to the level of the Ridgid or Dewalt (and certainly not a Bosch or SawStop) but as long as you're aware you're getting an excellent saw for ~$200, and not a contractor/professional grade saw, you'll be happy.

If it seemed nice to you in the store that's a good sign. Be aware that with cheaper saws, you sometimes have to do some work to get them to work smoothly: things like greasing slide points, or waxing the table to make sure wood glides on it.

The other thing is that a new, high quality blade makes an unbelievable amount of difference! If you can afford $35 for another blade (no worries if you can't, the one that comes with it will still cut!) a good 50 tooth or 60 tooth combination blade will make an average saw give you some pretty amazing results. I use this one for $35 and absolutely love it: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00008WQ30

I've only done them for 2 or 3 pieces so far, but you can do a good shaker with cope and stick style. This video from saw stop does a decent job of summarizing things, but do additional googleing to get all the details.

https://youtu.be/d-fCL-ZAVWs

Also, get a ftg rip blade for cutting the groove, any bevel will make it impossible to get a good tight fit. Here is the one I use with good success (then you have a real rip blade too!) I'd totally recommend the thin kerf if you have a 1.5hp or less saw.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0000225UH/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468094452&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Freud+thin+kerf+ftg+rip

Assuming you are starting from the ground up and need everything, it's going to be tight and you'll have to skimp in some places, but this is exactly what I would do. The grand total here is $5005.00 and that includes shipping on the big ticket items which is a few hundred dollars.

Table saw and related stuff:

[Grizzly G0715xp] (http://www.grizzly.com/products/10-Hybrid-Table-Saw-with-Riving-Knife-Polar-Bear-Series-/G0715P)

Freud Premier Fusion

[Freud SD208] (http://www.amazon.com/Freud-SD208-8-Inch-Professional-Dado/dp/B0000223O9/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395407011&sr=8-1&keywords=freud+sd208)

Gr Ripper 3d advanced (awesome on the router table too

Make your own ZCI's

Table Saw Total - $1,142

Jointer

Grizzly G0654 6" jointer (sell this on craigslist when you can upgrade to the 8". They hold their value really well and sell fast)

Jointer total $534.00

Planer

Dewalt DW734 - $399.99 most places. The 735 is nice, but not that much nicer. If I were to upgrade beyond the 734, I'd go for a 15" stationary unit.

Miter saw

Definitely go craigslist on this one. These things are a dime a dozen there. You can get a sliding 12" Dewalt/Makita/Ridgid, etc for around 250.00 to 300.00 Also pick up a decent Irwin Marples or Diablo blade

SCMS total - ~320.00

Bandsaw:

Craftsman BAS350. I own this. It's the SAME EXACT saw as the Rikon 10-321, just 200.00 cheaper. 8" resaw capacity and no stupid riser blocks to fuck up the geometry of your saw and make tensioning a nightmare.

Bandsaw Total - 620.00 with the Rikon resaw fence (bolt on) and a few timberwolf blades

Harbor Freight 2hp Dust collector, a lot of hoses, blast gates, and material to mod it to a 2 stage cyclone - 400.00

Router(s)

Bosch 1617 with both plunge and fixed bases

MLCS 15 bit set. Not the best, but better than absolutely anything else in this price range. Replace bits with Whiteside or Amanna when you have the cash.

Router and bits total 200.00

Also make your own table and fence to fill the empty space in your table saw.

Sanding

{Milwaukee 6021-21 Random Orbit Sander. Best ROS on the market until you go Festool/Ceros

Some klingspor abrasives in different grits

Shop vac bucket max and a 5gal bucket - perfect for sanders

Ridgid oscilating spindle sander. This is a tool I could definitely not live without after owning.

Sanding total - $320.00

Drill Press

Porter cable floor press

Also get the Porter Cable Forstner bit set and some decent brad points/twists)

Drill Press/bits total - ~$420.00

Clamps

Jorgensen Cabinet Master 4pc Set and various other bar clamps. The Pittsburgh ones from HF are pretty good

Clamps total ~ $250.00

Misc stuff

Woodriver bench chisels.

A vintage stanley block plane, and a jack plane

some plywood/melamine, and cheap hardwood and hardware to make a cross cut sled, router table/fence. drill press table, a workable bench/outfeed table and a grizzly woodworking end vise

Misc total - ~400.00

Its good to blow out your grinder now and then, although you dont need to do it often unless youre cutting masonry. Take the cover off on the back of the shaft of the grinder. Youll see a ring and pinion gear that make it an 'angle' grinder vs a straight grinder. Put your grease there. When the grinder gets warm the grease will become thinner and coat the gears.

As for disks for wood, theres these but ive only used the first link. I know they say theyre for paint, but they work great for sanding wood. They leave a decent finish. I used mine for sanding wheel wells on a skateboard. I found them at walmart for 2.50 a disk. They dont last long.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QLWHZLS/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000O3IOEW/

Theres also this awesome but insanely priced turbo plane
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008NA2IJ0/

The kutzall disks and lancelot seem like the best deal to me. Harbor freight sells a chain disk like that btw.

I would recommend a dewalt corded grinder, it will last a lifetime.

Edit: my reason for getting dewalt tools is theyre made in usa. They have 7 facilities in america. I have the 11 amp angle grinder, die grinder, 12 amp sawzall, and impact driver and drill and all of them are made in usa. Some products arent made in usa though. Also their grinders have built in dust ejection.

I'm not sure what Tammar uses specifically, but the Diablo 1050X is a pretty decent, popular, inexpensive upgrade from most stock blades. Or the D1040X. Others in that price range are the Irwin Marples 40t I believe. Being available from HomeDepot (as a non-American, decent-ish blades at a big box store? Unheard of!) makes them a good choice too.

Diablo is a sub-brand of Freud. The red blades are "permashield" coating, which Freud put on pretty much everything, so you'll even see it on higher end blades too, like the Freud Fusion.

I have that saw. For a portable, it's probably the best I've used. I use the Bosch and the Dewalt at work, and the Ridgid is a lot better in my opinion. For a beginner in the woodworking world you've found a pretty sweet deal if that saw is in good shape.

When I pulled mine out of the box it was already set up correctly. The blade was perfectly at 90° and the fence locked in square every time. It will handle a dado set, too. I run this one. It cuts perfectly smooth bottoms and clean edges.

You might find a better deal on craigslist, but you won't be sorry if you spend the money on the Ridgid. It's a solid saw, and better than all the other portables I've used.

Edit: The link to the dado set is not the cheapest I've found. I don't remember where I ordered mine, but it was in the $60 range. If I find my receipt I'll post where I got it.

> IRWIN Marples 40-Tooth - $44.99

This one is one of those "uncommonly good for the brand/uncommonly cheap for the quality" situations. I'm not sure I trust the brand as a whole. It's a pretty different blade than the 50T.

My two normal TS blade recs are the Forrest WW-II and the TENRYU Gold Medal. They are a bit more expensive, though. I'm sure the Freud is fine--most of their stuff is pretty good.

> Haha I JUST called Harbor Freight because they were the cheapest I could find online. Unfortunately, they don't ship to Canada and the cheapest clamps I could find were the ones I listed. I'll keep looking...

You were at $90 for 4 clamps. There's a lot of territory between $22.5/clamp and Harbor Freight prices. These are $10, and a little more for the larger sizes, for example.

Clamps are heavy so shipping can get expensive...might be better to try to find a local retailer.

> Do you recommend any particular brand of F-style clamps? Maybe two 6" and two 12" for now?

There isn't a ton of differentiation..I have Jorgensens that I bought at the local HD, but I'm sure I would be just as happy with the equivalent product from Bessey or Irwin or whoever. Having a local place to run out and get them helped a lot--that way I could just buy a few at the beginning, and then accumulate the rest as I needed them, project by project.

So I just bought a new table saw recently. I'm kind of following a similar track of 'upgrading' it with goodies.

Here's what I have to go along with my TS:

1. Blade: Diablo 50T Combo blade
   
   
2. Feather board: Magswitch feather board
   
   
3. Push sticks: I already had these (homemade), they are basic AF.
   
   
4. Crosscut Sled. My design was a combination of this video for the fence shape, and this one. That second video does a really good job of explaining the 5 cuts method, and how to make adjustments to the fence to get it super accurate.
   
   
5. Dado stack. I got this for Christmas, still haven't used it on a project yet.
   
   Next thing I'm going to make is a bunch of ZCIs, I figure this will come in handy for my next set of projects that will require the dado stack. I don't yet have an outfeed table (limited space), but my latest issue of WOOD has a cool mobile folding one that doubles as a scrap storage cart.
   
   If you don't have a crosscut sled yet, I would make that first. They are made from inexpensive materials, and can be as simple or complex as you like them to be. My first crosscut sled for my old POS tablesaw was made from scrap ply and a chunk of scrap 2x4; it was ugly and kind of crummy, but it did the job. My second version is much nicer, with contoured and shaped fences and much more accurate using the 5 cut method. More sophisticated versions have built in stop blocks, tape measures, or T-tracks for adjustable inserts. I use my sled on just about every single project, as both my miter and circular saw are kind of inaccurate, and not great at making super accurate crosscuts. Plus, if you don't have a dado stack, you can use a crosscut sled to make rabbets and dados across the grain by making repeated cuts. It will take longer, but gets the job done.
   
   Good luck!

I have the big brother to that table saw (DWE7491RS) because I needed portability too. I only really use it for woodworking, it's not ideal (mainly because of the small table) but still a great saw given the fact I can fold it up and store it in my shed.

I got this Freud blade for it after a little bit of research. If you're doing fast rough cuts it's probably better to get something else. This one still cuts fairly fast but the finish it leaves is absolutely beautiful. It's Freud's newest "multi-purpose" blade. One thing to consider is the kerf width of the blade versus the thickness of the Dewalt riving knife. This Freud is a thin kerf and is barely thick enough for the riving knife (by about 2 thousandths on each side). You MUST have the blade aligned well with the riving knife (not hard to do). Once it's aligned, it's very safe though, no play for the board to hit the back teeth and cause kickback. No binding either if you have it aligned correctly.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0036CANUQ/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Craftsman Table Saw Model # $150


Shop Fox model #G8826 fence system $275


Freud P410 Premier Fusion 10-Inch 40 Tooth Hi-ATB General Purpose Saw Blade $80


Wilton 15” drill press $100


Parks 12” planer $600 This requires a little road trip

Atlas 6” jointer $150 Model #


Delta 10” bandsaw, Powerkraft radial arm saw and Rockwell contractor table saw $200
I would resell one of the tablesaws Just pick the nicest one and sell the other.


Oneway Multi Gauge $97 This is for setting the jointer perfectly and the dial indicator can be removed to make planer setting jig as described by Bob Vaughan (see youtube) or fine woodworking 107.


Angle block set for machine setup $30


Bessey Bar Clamps $14x3 plus maybe $10x3 for bars Say $75 total


Stanley sweetheart chisel set of 4 $80



This leaves $243 left for misc things like drill bits, planer/jointer knives or sharpening F style clamps a cordless drill, random orbit sander, sand paper ect.

Yeah, that would have made sense, but at this point I really just wanted a turnkey solution - I was getting pretty burnt out on the project. I like the planer a lot. The blades that come with it leave a lot to be desired, but you can get a number of upgrades for that: high speed steel, or the crazy helix style with replaceable blades if you have disposable income.

The one and only upgrade I would absolutely do every time is a digital readout like this one I got from Rockler, which makes the machine 10000000% more precise.

Any contractor saw would be excellent. You should look for saws with the motor hanging out the back, they're better than the direct drives. Everyone here loves the delta -I cant remember the number- or the Rigid, but I've got a mid 90s craftsman with new freud blades and it cuts very smoothly. I tuned it up following youtube's guides and then every time i adjust the fence have to square it up for 2 minutes cause I havent had time to build a biesemeyer fence yet. I got these two saw blades 24 tooth FTB and 60 tooth ATB

Build yourself a crosscut sled for 10$ worth of wood and I used it for rabbets and Miter-ing. This table saw is a pretty decent deal. Bet he'd take 300 for it

Dont be afraid of used things, youtube will tell you how to make it pretty decent.

I agree with most of what has been suggested here. A microjig Gripper, a better saw blade, the one that comes with the saw is crap. A dado set. He can make push sticks, I like the ones I made better than the store bought. You could also get him a gift card to a hardwood store or HD/Lowes so he can buy lumber or anything else he needs.

• Micro Jig Gripper
  
• Dado Stack
  
• incra v27
  
• Digital level/Angle finder for making sure your blade is at 90 or 45 degrees
  
  

> Woodworker II 40T

Wow, that blade is more expensive than my saw. What's the second best blade? :)

Based on the Woodworker II specs, it looks like this from Freud might produce similar results at a lower cost.

There are several reasons that you might be getting burning when you rip. Is your fence aligned with the blade? The blade could be dirty, or dull.

I got this CMT combination blade, and think it excellent. It cuts cleanly on rip and crosscuts. It handles thick stock very well. I do keep a dedicated rip blade, though. I use it for ripping thick, hard stock.

To answer the last question, I don't think many woodworkers would pick Diablo as the best blade. It's a decent value, it does fine for hobbyist work, but it's a long way from the best.

I have the 5100 and bought the dado insert off amazon. It looks like yours uses a different model, but this looks right for yours.
I use the Freud 8 in stack and your saw looks like it also takes 8 in diameter. That set is great.

I just bought one and I love that the blades can be installed 4 ways now, and the keyless blade changing is very nice. With the 18v XRP Li-Ion batteries it's easily as powerful as my old corded Portal-Cable. I was using it with a green wood blade the other day to cut up some branches when my chainsaw crapped out on me.

Get the CMT glue line blade for your table saw and yeas the are good they are better than diablo. Actually diablo are just so so.

Edit. The all orange CMT blades are ok inline with diablo.
https://www.amazon.com/CMT-203-030-10-Industrial-Ripping-10-Inch/dp/B000Q93M78 This is the glue line it is absolutely sweet blade

The size of the kerf really starts to add up when making these.

If you plan to keep making more of these, investing in a good thin kerf blade is a great idea. It can save you over an inch in both the length and width.

Blade I use: http://www.amazon.com/Forrest-WW10407125-Woodworker-10-Inch-8-Inch/dp/B0000223VQ/ref=sr_1_17?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1457022120&sr=1-17&keywords=thin+kerf+saw+blades+10-inch

I have 6" from Oshlun that are truly the best value. I also have 8" Forrest Dado King which are very nice, but debatable over whether they are worth the money.

If you are going to do a ton of Fine Wood Working dados then get the Forrest, but otherwise the Oshlun is where the money should go.

I haven’t used one of these, but they make a lot of angle grinder attachments. I imagine something like this would be good for roughing.

That is a great deal on a good saw.

Now, do yourself a favor and get a Forrest Woodworker II to put in your new baby.

Oh yeah I'm sure he does. That probably makes all the difference in this kind of stuff. I've done endgrain with my dad's Ryobi planer with 2 flat blades and it works ok. Lots of tear out on the back end of course. I've got my eye on this with this sexy beast. mmmmmfff...

You’ve got a fence, right? If so, buy a decent blade, watch a few safety vids and go for it.

You’ll figure out what needs to be fixed as you go along.

Try to spend more time working wood than getting your tools perfect.

Here’s a good blade to start: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00020JOAA/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_CcqyCbGEFW31T

I'm currently using the Freud glue line rip blade https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001V5J4QY?pc_redir=T1 and I just ripped a bunch of maple, walnut, purple heart, cherr and Pau Amarello with minimal burning and a smooth surface. I think that's probably the best blade for that price range.

As far as the dado is concerned, I grabbed one of these with great success. https://www.amazon.com/Freud-SBOX8-Cutter-4-Inch-grooves/dp/B000ASGV1E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1426348245&sr=8-1&keywords=Freud+SBOX8

Lancelot is what you use. I do quite a bit of log work and there's nothing better to shape than than this tool.


And yes, it's extremely dangerous...and fun :)

https://www.amazon.com/Freud-D1060X-10-Inch-PermaShield-Coating/dp/B00008WQ30/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=freud+10+inch+saw+blade&qid=1564076055&s=gateway&sprefix=freud+10&sr=8-4.
Not thin kerf but i think you'll have better luck than one with less teeth

The blades came just in time! I used to use a short box saw (seen here) to both harvest the tree and trim the roots. I now use an 18" Corona pruning saw which lasts for a while if I treat it with camellia oil. Last year I brought my reciprocating saw with a wood blade into the swamp and root pruning was a damned sight easier. My friend, Mitch, put me on to pruning blades and I ordered a 5-pack of Bosch blades.

Next year, I want the 21" Corona saw. So, anyone who wants to know what to get me for Christmas, that's it right there.

Tomorrow is SWAMP DAY! WHOO!

-----------

Note: "Just in time" is defined here as "remembering on Monday that I forgot to order the blades and now I need to pay for 2-day shipping".

I have a Freud D1050X Diablo 10-Inch 50-tooth ATB Combination Saw Blade in my amazon wish list (for my table saw). Everyone seems to love them...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00008WQ2Z

awesome! i heard about this. Good to hear that it does work.

Looks like amazon has one for $83

http://www.amazon.com/Freud-SBOX8-Cutter-4-Inch-grooves/dp/B000ASGV1E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1426348245&sr=8-1&keywords=Freud+SBOX8

For the cost of a blade just to save an extra ~0.025 inches or whatever or wood you can just buy a LOT more board feet of lumber instead. Or resaw on a bandsaw.

I think the blade that dewalt comes with is technically close to thin kerf (3/32 ~= 0.095 I think I have the same blade that came with my Dewalt..24 tooth 0.095 kerf).

A normal kerf is 1/8 or 0.125, to go even thinner you are talking like 1/32 of an inch less per cut I don't think you'll find a 1/16 blade for a TS and if you do it will cost a lot.

A 56.00 Freud thin kerf blade is also basically the same as what's in your saw https://www.amazon.ca/Freud-LU87R010-10-Inch-Ripping-Perma-Shield/dp/B0000225UH/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1526935425&sr=8-3&keywords=freud+thin+kerf

So just save your money on a new blade and buy more lumber

Every single time, before you hit the ON button count your fingers and remind yourself a razor sharp blade will be spinning at 3450 rpm in the area your hands are about to travel. Two more inserts for angled blade and dado use would be good.

Invest in a Forrest Woodworker II and a blade dampener. You will never be sorry and they have the best sharpening/rehab service you will find. It will last you a long time. http://www.amazon.com/Forrest-WW10407125-Woodworker-10-Inch-8-Inch/dp/B0000223VQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1372303400&sr=8-1&keywords=forrest+blade+10+inch

nice, now save up for a few more and get the helical cutters, totally worth it https://www.amazon.com/Byrd-Tool-Shelix-cutterhead-Dewalt/dp/B008CS2QAE/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1526271684&sr=8-1-fkmr0

Amazon has the Dewalt 735x for $544.59. The X is the one with the in/outfeed tables and an extra set of blades. It is a very good thickness planer. There is also a third party helical head for it.

Freud industrial heavy duty rip. link here it’s giving me some nice clean flat joints.

I use the diablo blade you linked to; it's great. Slightly cheaper on amazon.

Before those, I used these blades, and for $20, they're hard to beat.

Yes, combo blades are a fine alternative to high or low tpi blades. The only time I've ever used a 24tooth ripping blade is when I need the flat top grind for flat bottomed grooves for splines.

I'd recommend a combination blade. Works great for someone getting started. Changing blades is a hassle https://www.amazon.com/D1050X-Diablo-50-tooth-Combination-PermaShield/dp/B00008WQ2Z/ref=pd_sim_469_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=FS75W1HYKCW1CS1P4VTB

I had some issues with my 4512 also bogging down. I bought a Freud 24 tooth thin rip blade and it works great. I haven't had any problems since. The thinner the kerf the easier it is for the saw to cut.

http://www.amazon.com/Freud-LU87R010-10-Inch-24-Tooth-PermaShield/dp/B0000225UH

Agreed on the tooth count. I've had decent luck crosscutting hardwood with this blade and a slow feed rate. It isn't perfect, and I have an 80 tooth blade on my wish list for that reason.

LeatheL has spot on advice, but don't forget if you ever plan on using a sled set-up you may find you don't have enough depth from a 6" set.

For what it's worth, I have been using a Freud 8" set since 2002, the teeth are all in great shape, I clean them when I have been cutting exotic woods like Jatoba or blackwood, or when they start to get a gummy build up. My 2 hp contractor saw has a hard time taking full passes set at 3/4" width, My 5hp cabinet saw has no problem taking full depth cuts at max width, but it leaves burn marks, so I always take a couple of passes.

This is the set I have had for 12+ years, if I upgrade it will be to the Freud SuperStack 8"
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000223O9/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687742&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B00004RK0P&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1E6H0FQEW8YNTCZQ1BJ4

Even better, get this chainsaw tool attachment for your angle grinder. It goes through material like butter, it's magical. Then finish with a sand wheel or belt sander.

I second this. The thin kerf ones are really nice. I use this one specifically for cutting veneered plywood when I can't use my tablesaw. They have a non-stick coating that makes them rather nice.

If you have a tablesaw then the hands down answer is Forest.

The absolute fastest way to grind out part of the log is to buy an attachment for an angle grinder. Stuff like this and this are pretty much geared towards grinding crap out.

A high quality blade will make a big difference. I use freud blades and love them. You could use a general purpose blade if you make both rip and cross cuts. https://www.amazon.com/Freud-LU83R010-10-Inch-Combination-PermaShield/dp/B00020JOAA/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1466877982&sr=8-6&keywords=freud+10+inch+saw+blade
If you make a lot of rip cuts https://www.amazon.com/Freud-LM75R010-10-Inch-8-Inch-Arbor/dp/B001V5J4QY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466878111&sr=8-1&keywords=freud+10+inch+saw+blade+glue+line+rip is amazing.
I use thin kerf as i had a crappy table saw in the past and its easier on the saw.

I just bought this and am very happy with it.

Oshlun SDS-0842 8-Inch 42 Tooth Stack Dado Set with 5/8-Inch Arbor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012YF25Q/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_X8n1wbG1NCXW4

I also have the polished Freud SD208 and have been very happy.

Bummer. Seems like a pretty good price though, especially for canuckistan.

This got me looking at Freud industrial blades in the US with a flat cut and led me to this.. https://www.amazon.com/Freud-Tooth-Combination-Blade-LU84R011/dp/B0000225V8

Thin kerf version here: https://www.amazon.com/Freud-Tooth-Combination-Blade-LU83R010/dp/B00020JOAA

I've watched my dad do this quite a few times. He takes a drill and drills depth holes every few inches to get the profile of the seat defined. Then after that he uses an angle grinder attachment like this to rough out the shape down to where the drill holes end. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000224SJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_L7m5wb6709E6B

From there he usually finishes up with a random orbital sander.

It's really going to come down to you using it, if it's making bad cuts then it might be worth exchanging for another to see if the issue persists or if maybe it's supposed to be that way. I just checked amazon canada and they have an Olshun for $77 in the warehouse, might be worth a shot--often times when I order there it's just the packaging that got beat up but the items are pretty much new

For a blade, buy a high tooth count plywood blade, also called a "finish" blade. This will give you the cleanest cut. Something like this for a circular saw: https://www.amazon.com/Freud-D0760X-Diablo-Finish-4-Inch/dp/B001CZEU0S

Keep in mind that you'll get cleaner cuts and less tear out if you cut with the grain than across in plywood. And yeah, quality plywood is expensive. Shop around and maybe there's a cheaper supplier near you.

One suggestion: since you'll be doing a ton of these, might be worthwhile to buy some cheap plywood and make a couple of test ones and practice before you buy the expensive stuff. For joinery, glue+brads is quite strong, glue+screws would be a little bit stronger but slower to assemble. Personally, I'd use brads. Once you build the carcase and put the full back on it neither will rack.

It was the weekly sticky thread, I couldn’t find anything in the wiki either. Recommended one, which I like was an Oshlun. Cheap one was a Mibro.

Wife bought me a Byrd head for mine after one magically appeared on her wishlist ($340 on Amazon). Holy shmokies I didn't think that something that worked so well already could be THAT MUCH better. I haven't had an upgrade on anything ever make that much difference. Add that to your list. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008CS2QAE/?coliid=I2JHDA29KV3K9L

You have to be careful with the feed rate but using a circular saw blade like this you could probably go straight from the saw cut to sanding.

You would still need a plane or router sled setup to flatten the face of a board.

This is what I have and I've always gotten good results.

*the dewalt has the same number of teef. durrrrr

Not a Freud but this is my combo blade that almost never comes out of the saw:

https://www.sliversmill.com/product_665_10x40_Tooth_Thin_Kerf_WOODWORKER_II_6_for_NEAR_FLAT_BOTTOM_.html

If I'm ripping hardwood longer than 30 inches and thicker than 4/4, then I switch to:

https://www.amazon.com/Freud-Tooth-Blade-Arbor-LM75R010/dp/B001V5J4QY

Which is a Freud and works very well.

It kind of depends on the saw you have. If it is a portable saw buy the .091 kerf here:https: //smile.amazon.com/Freud-Tooth-Combination-Blade-LU83R010/dp/B00020JOAA/ref=pd_sim_469_13?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=YMMS6DY84H49CKS4C9GW
If it is a bigger saw that can handle the load buy this one:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0000225V8/ref=psdc_552342_t1_B00020JOAA
Both are great blades and the full kerf gives a much better cut on a full size saw but the smaller saws can't handle removing that much material. I use the thin kerf in my "jobsite" saw. I use Freud's 1/8" kerf line of blades in my cabinet saw. You can have them sharpened 3-4 times for about $12 each time.

I really like the oshlun dado set. I have had it for years and it still works great. Not sure how big of a table saw you have but an 8 inch dado stack will put a lot of strain on the motor. A six inch version will be plenty for most woodworkers.

I've liked the rip cuts I get from my Freud thin kerf rip blades.

http://www.amazon.com/Freud-LM75R010-10-Inch-8-Inch-Arbor/dp/B001V5J4QY/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1421010296&sr=1-2&keywords=freud+thin+rip+blade

http://www.amazon.com/Freud-LU87R010-10-Inch-24-Tooth-PermaShield/dp/B0000225UH/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1421010296&sr=1-1&keywords=freud+thin+rip+blade

The thin blade eats less wood and for underpowered saws like mine works well.
I prefer the FTG blade because it's a little more aggressive and doesn't leave the tiny triangle of wood in the corners if you use it for a non through cut. Not an issue for re saws though.

You can use this set for the 7480 and 745. It's been sitting in my wish list waiting for a project where I need it.

Freud 8" x 20T Box Joint Cutter Set (SBOX8)

I got this one and I am loving it. Smooth cuts both ways. It is cheaper at lowes though.


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008OJJXZC/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_uZBVub1AA3FET

A single blade, with or without contractor pricing. But you can't get a tablesaw blade worth buying at Home Depot.

Edit: Pretty much anything made by Forrest, but get the right blade for the job. Example: https://www.amazon.com/Forrest-WW10407125-Woodworker-10-Inch-8-Inch/dp/B0000223VQ

We buy them locally, but getting them online isn't too much more expensive.

This may fit your table saw. It fits a dewalt dw745 https://www.amazon.com/Freud-Joint-Cutter-Joints-SBOX8/dp/B000ASGV1E

There's the reason why the Forrest WWII 40t blade sells like hotcakes.

I recommend this blade. It makes fantastic cuts, even on plywood, but I typically make two passes on plywood one on either side.

http://www.amazon.com/Freud-P410-Premier-10-Inch-PermaShield/dp/B000JNTG76

If you only paid $30 bucks for the saw and the motor is good sink some money into a good blade, possible thin kerf. That dewalt blade that is in there is a piece of shit.

This should do quite nicely.

If you do attempt this on your machine, you will want a thin-kerf rip blade, 20-30 teeth. The thin kerf will reduce the load on your machine.

Heres a decent Freud one for under 40 bucks from Amazon.

What kind of table saw are you using, it's important for kerf sizing

If you're using a saw that can handle full kerf blades:

https://www.amazon.com/Freud-Tooth-Combination-Blade-LU84R011/dp/B00004T7A4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1478446733&sr=8-2&keywords=freud%2Bcombo%2Bblade&th=1

Otherwise, thin a quality thin kerf blade:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00020JOAA/ref=psdc_552342_t1_B0000225V8

I have the same saw and my go-to blades are Diablo.

Freud D1060X Diablo 10-Inch 60 Tooth ATB Fine Finish Saw Blade with 5/8-Inch Arbor and PermaShield Coating https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00008WQ30/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1UNkybP6DN0CR

I've got a DeWalt DWE7480, and my only complaint about it is the short arbor that can't use dado blades (with a handful of exceptions apparently, although I don't have a set yet). The fence and fence lock are fantastic. The dust collection leaves something to be desired too, but that's not a surprise or in any way unusual for a small portable saw.

I've got an Oshlun stacked dado set with spacers. I like the sled you posted and mine is similar but I think I need to make a changes to both my key and maybe pull a shim out of my stack.

Here's my sled

I just don't really see the point of a think kerf blade unless your saw is really underpowered. All of my rip cuts have gotten way better since I switched.

https://www.amazon.com/Freud-24T-Heavy-Duty-Blade-LM72M010/dp/B00004T78V
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000225UD/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For nearly the same price as the big box Diablo's, the Freud branded Industrial line is supposed to be longer lasting. I just ordered the 50 tooth from Amazon Link

Here is the HD Diablo equivalent Link

Sounds like the one I have. [Here it is on Amazon](Irwin Tools 1807368 Marples Laser Cut 10-Inch 50-Tooth Alternate Tooth Bevel with Raker Tooth Circular Saw Blade https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008OJJXZC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_qgOwzb0MM3KT1).

I am assuming I could bring bunch of angle grinder wheels alongside. Like for instance this thing as well: https://www.amazon.com/King-Arthurs-Tools-45822-Lancelot/dp/B0000224SJ

It would not only let you cut down trees, but you could also make stuff like this with it: https://i.imgur.com/5CSCi8E.jpg

Also assuming there is a plain wreck somewhere you could use the other wheels to salvage and make other tools with it.

Angle grinders are incredibly versatile.

yes, I use it a lot and it works fine. It's a dado that will do 1/4" and 3/8", but 3/4" is too risky. The comments specify people using it for the 745: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ASGV1E/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Can't decide on which Dado set. Have decided to go with 6" for my 1 1/4 HP saw. But can't decide between Ohslun and the Freud. Just tell me what to do.

I can only imagine the possible kick out when using one of these chain saw grinding wheels

I have the same saw and I use the Freud SD208

That's beginner level.

For only double the price! http://www.amazon.com/Byrd-Tool-Shelix-cutterhead-Dewalt/dp/B008CS2QAE/

I am looking at this Freud set. How is it? Link

Why build a chainsaw when you can buy one of these ?

I got a 8" set from Oshlun for Christmas. I can't wait to use them! http://www.amazon.com/Oshlun-SDS-0842-8-Inch-Tooth-Stack/dp/B0012YF25Q

Now you need one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008CS2QAE/ref=aw_wl_ov_dp_2_10?colid=281352E1OK511&coliid=I1SWHCA3UXVO82

http://www.lowes.com/pd_89913-46069-PCB220TS_0__?productId=3163783

with a http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000223VQ?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

No worries. Don't forget to grab you a good combo blade. I know it may seem high, but the Forrest WWII is where it's at. I have two I use in rotation when one is off being sharpened.

The only blade you need: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000223VQ/

the first two blades i purchased for my saw was a freud glue line rip and a freud ultimate crosscut. I used the crappy blade that came with my saw for cutting shop plywood and 2x4s. I recently bought a Freud combo blade that works really well. this is the combo blade I bought. If your tablesaw is under-powered, I recommend a thin kerf rip blade. HTH.

What are people's thoughts on this dado set and this thin kerf blade? I just got both for early Christmas gifts, but it's not too late to return them to Amazon for other options if these won't be great.

I had your exact problem with my Dewalt DWE7480 (just a bit newer version of your saw).

[This] (https://www.amazon.ca/Freud-SBOX8-Cutter-4-Inch-Grooves/dp/B000ASGV1E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1524245560&sr=8-1&keywords=freud+box+joint+cutter+set) is what you're looking for.

It's obviously not as ideal as a full dado stack, but gets the job done. I used it for cutting tenons on 8/4 stock and it leaves a nice clean/straight cut.

Interesting, I see a lot of videos on this topic including this one and this other one. Would this be a good blade? I also see this thin kerf model, but I have a 3HP table saw and I'm not worried about 1/32" of extra waste, and I assume the non-thin-kerf is more durable.

If you don't want to change your blade for crosscuts or rip cuts get a combo. I use the Diablo D1050X the price is right and let's be honest, your gonna sand anyway I don't care how good the cut is, it ain't gonna be no 220 grit finish.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00008WQ2Z/ref=s9_dcacsd_dcoop_bw_c_x_1_w

Never mind my suggestion, it'll probably ruin your veneer.

Depending on the finish needed, you might want to switch to using a blade with less teeth - something made more for ripping.
A smaller blade, with just as many teeth won't be any cheaper to resharpen.
I just got the following blade (Freud LU87R010 10-Inch 24-Tooth - http://www.amazon.com/Freud-LU87R010-10-Inch-24-Tooth-PermaShield/dp/B0000225UH/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1381425527&sr=1-1&keywords=freud+lu87), so I can't commend on its longevity, but it seems more suited to your needs.
Should be at least half as expensive to resharpen.

I have the same saw and I bought this for it -- https://www.amazon.com/Freud-Tooth-Ripping-Blade-LU87R010/dp/B0000225UH/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1506016279&sr=8-1&keywords=thin+kerf+saw+blades+10-inch

I like the thin kerf as you don't have to worry about it bogging down if you cut anything thick, and I do mostly rip cuts. I've ripped and cross cut plywood with a thin maple veneer and haven't had any issues with tear out either.

You'll be fine.... I have a 36-725 and use a Freud P410T on it with no problems, it's .091, you just have to make sure it's aligned properly and you'll be all set.

This one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0036CANUQ?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

Byrd shelix cutterhead for DW735 planer on amazon right now for $207 - insane price!

https://www.amazon.com/Byrd-Tool-Shelix-cutterhead-Dewalt/dp/B008CS2QAE/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1542995854&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=byrd+shelix+dw735&psc=1

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For a general purpose blade I would recommend one. They are cheap but still decent quality and good for 90% of your cuts. I have this one and have no complaints as a hobbyist
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00008WQ2Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_HFBSzbCZA2EXX

Ya, the table saw guard is a combination splitter, blade guard as well as pawls on either side to prevent the workpiece from reversing direction. When I was first starting to use it I made some dumb mistakes and shot some small boards right past me because I got mine used and it didn't come with part of the guard assembly. Fortunately I had watched enough safety videos and things to know to stay out of the way of the blade so it did not hit me, but still was not a pleasant experience. I have since bought the missing piece and use the splitter and guard whenever I can.

As far as a multipurpose blade, I went with a combination blade so I don't have to change blades when doing rips vs. cross cuts. This is the one I got:

http://www.amazon.com/D1050X-Diablo-50-tooth-Combination-PermaShield/dp/B00008WQ2Z/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1407533481&sr=8-4&keywords=diablo+10%22+blade

I have found it to cut plenty clean for my needs.