Reddit mentions: The best seals & o-rings

OK, buckle-up! I'm going to save you a several hour journey into the bowels of the internet to hunt down all this particular information. :-)

Better Ear Tips for the BLON BL-03:

For good ear tips, pick up some Sony MH755 earphones for the BLONs. (They are available for ~$5 on Aliexpress, roughly the same on Ebay). The tips off of these Sony's are a perfect fit/match for the Blons. An added plus is that they come with an assortment of different sized tips, so you can pick the ones with the best fit for you.

Another great option on ear tips for the BLONs are the Final Audio Type E tips. Here's a source for them on Amazon. (I like these a little better than the MH755 tips, but either are really nice upgrades for the BLONs.)

Another tip for tips on BLONs... (Hah! Sorry, couldn't resist!) Some folks (to include me) add these small gaskets around the BLON's stem base in order to help get whatever tips they use to extend up and further out - sort of a tip booster seat. :-) This really helps to deliver a better seal. (The BLON stems are notoriously short, so folks with larger ears will definitely benefit from doing this more so than folks with small ears.)

Better cables for the BLON BL-03:

The Blons use a square, protruded .78mm 2 pin connector. (NX7-style). These are a bit harder to find, but they are out there if you want a perfect match to the square connector housing. (Note that you may need to trim the pins down a little to make them flush with the connector housing though - easily done using a pair of wire snips. Thanks Tacanacy!) Cable example: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000129870705.html (Choosing the NX7 style option... Note these cables are probably overkill, but they are really nice cables.)

If you are willing to file/cut down the square edges of the Blon's cable connector to make it a bit more oval (using a hobby knife or small file), they can easily be made to fit any QDC or type "C" connector which is a pretty standard cable connector type. This will let you then fit any QDC connector based cable over the Blon's protruded plug and get a nice snug fit up against the housing of the Blon. Lots more options in types/brands of cable if you go this route. Here's a nice example: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33018785015.html (Choosing the "QDC 3.5" option)

If you don't want to do the above mod (shave down the square edges of the Blon's connector), any exposed (non-hooded) connector that uses two pins (.78mm) will work just fine with the Blons, but they will be flush with the connector and not cover or sleeve over it. They will still be 100% functional and work great though.

As to cable brands, I've found that all of these are really good quality (in my order of preference): Nicehck, Kbear, Tripowin, Yinyoo, TRN

Also, if you see a bunch of different cable plug connectors (2.5mm, 3.5mm, 4.4mm) and don't know which is which, the 3.5mm plug is the one you'll want - it's the standard that will fit pretty much every audio device out there. (The others are typically used more with esoteric/higher-end audio gear which utilize balanced cable connections - ones which don't share a common ground wire between the left/right channels and require more connector contacts and an additional wire in the mix.)

I'd also recommend that you pick out at least an 8 core braided cable as they tend to be a bit thicker and *much* less tangle prone then the stock cables or others that use thinner wires. I really like the look/feel of the 16 core cables myself, but they may be a bit on the bulky side for some, especially if you plan to use them for fitness activities or around the gym.

And finally, if you are still reading this wall of text, no matter which cables you get, be sure to get the orientation of the plug right otherwise your audio will be out of phase and may sound a bit odd. It's pretty easy to mix up the plug orientation on the connectors! Here's a site you can use to check to make sure you got them right: https://www.audiocheck.net/audiotests_polaritycheck.php

Hope all this info helped!

Another vote for the Platinum Preppy. They are pretty cheap ($5-6/pen). You can get a set from amazon and they have touches of color that can help with quick identification.

If you have a Safari in Fine - mine matches the Preppy 05 which some places call medium. If you want something that is more like western EF I would go with the 03(F). The 02(EF) is super fine and doesn't compare with any western nib.

Additionally - you can get a converter (the regular platinum one) for about 7 bucks which only brings the pen up to about $12 with a converter. If you use a lot of ink, these eyedropper really well. I have not done it with just silicone grease, but I have heard of people who do. I used these o-rings which fit the preppy perfectly. Really the only caveat I have to eyedroppering them is not to over tighten them and to inspect the body regularly as the plastic does crack. However, when it does, they are cheap enough that you can get another pretty easily. I have also found that they clean pretty easily if you are changing inks to find what your favorite set of colors is.

Finally: if you don't like the look of all the writing on the side, it can easily be removed with 90% rubbing alcohol or nail polish remover (non-acetone). This will give you a pretty cool little demonstrator. If you want to give it a frosted look you can take some #0000 steel wool to it to remove the writing that will give you an even frosting.

Hola! I set all this up last year so it’s a bit rusty!

This is a shopping list for an Xbox One mixer setup similar to mine and you may need some help filling in a few gaps and the wiring!

So the idea is to build a setup to be able to use an awesome mic to talk to the stream as well as party chat ‘at the same time’ (which I prefer over using a headset) but to also be able to hear game/chat/PC audio though a single pair of headphones and control their volume levels in one place with ease.

I don't need sound going out to my PC as the Cap card is getting that from the Console via HDMI.
Streaming Xbox to PC then the WORLD!

Xbox – hdmi into a cap card in the PC Avermedia live gamer hd
http://www.amazon.co.uk/AverMedia-61C9850000AE-Avermedia-Live-Gamer/dp/B007SRYAPO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1447858313&sr=8-2&keywords=live+gamer+hd
This grabs the game audio and that’s that bit done, stream using OBS and boom!

Here's is my shopping list for party chat:

Mixer

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Behringer-802-Premium-8-Input-Preamps/dp/B000J5XS3C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415150891&sr=8-1&keywords=behringer+mixer
Headset Buddy (Real name, I didn’t make that up!)

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Headset-Buddy-Adapter-PC35-PH25-Computer/dp/B002D41HKS/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1421341934&sr=1-3&keywords=headset+buddy

Xbox Chat Thing:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Xbox-One-Stereo-Headset-Adapter/dp/B00IAVDOS6

Cable from Buddy to Mixer:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Hosa-CMP159-Stereo-Breakout-10-Feet/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415150937&sr=8-1&keywords=hosa+cables

Cable from Mixer to Buddy!

http://www.amazon.co.uk/HosaTech-CMS-105-3-5mm-Stereo-Interconnect/dp/B000068O35/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1447857349&sr=8-1&keywords=3.5mm+TRS+to+1%2F4+inch

Xbox Mixer(s)

Astro Mixamp (I use)
http://www.amazon.co.uk/ASTRO-Gaming-3AM99-HBU9X-975-ASTROGAMING-MIXAMP/dp/B004L6C6BK/ref=sr_1_4?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1447856882&sr=1-4&keywords=astro+mixamp

Earforce DSS (an option!)

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Force-Channel-Dolby-Surround-Processor-Mac/dp/B003O0KICS/ref=sr_1_1?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1421378828&sr=1-1&keywords=dss1

Ground Loop things:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Headphone-Ground-Isolator-Filter-Stereo/dp/B00INV5LB6/ref=pd_sim_sbs_23_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=41-9H3Hc3mL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1TTNMJANJDTK26VVSAE7

Although I have used these ones because I didn’t see the ones above!

http://www.amazon.co.uk/AV-Link-201-086-Skytronic-Isolator/dp/B000NVWB9O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1447857227&sr=8-1&keywords=Ground+Loop+Isolator

Mic wise any XLR mic is fine!

Here is a link to a image i found that kinda helps piece it all together! http://imgur.com/UYaQQUZ

Here is a quick vid of my setup, happy to help if i can! http://www.twitch.tv/drunkiemunkie/v/26306849

Heres is my latest Xbox One vid with party chat but it picks up the Public Lobby if they speak!
http://www.twitch.tv/drunkiemunkie/v/31799799

dM

This is my Full Metal Printed Filco Majestouch-2 TKL

I posted pictures earlier here:

http://redd.it/1i58od


It is made using the following:

1. Filco Majestouch-2 TKL [www.keyboardco.co.uk or Amazon.com]
   
   
2. MKC Silver Zinc Printed Cherry MX Keys [OEM Profile] (86 Keycaps)+(Aluminum Spacebar) [purchased via PM to feng @ geekhack.org ~ $215]
   
   
3. Vortex Aluminum Case (Grey)(Filco TKL) [http://mechanicalkeyboards.com/ | http://tinyurl.com/qa4htga]
   
   
4. 2x O-rings http://amzn.com/B0051XWXCE
   
   
5. Da Vinci Aluminum Poker 300 Chip Case http://amzn.com/B002P9YRN0
   
   FAQ:
   
   
6. Where did you get the non-standard size keys?
   The only way I was able to get the modifiers was to simply buy the entire 87 key set. I really wish I was able to buy each key I needed separately, I am now forced to sell my old zinc keycaps.
   
   
7. Are these keycaps available unprinted?
   Yes, They are also available unprinted. I posted pictures earlier of an unprinted set on geekhack when I ordered my keycaps. The aluminum case pictured below is a MKC case and is much more expensive then the Vortex. http://i.imgur.com/BMf6cQ5.jpg
   
   
8. How do you like typing on the Zinc Keycaps?
   Currently it's like typing on "light blue" as the wieght of the keys lightens the actuation force required. I also added o-rings http://amzn.com/B0051XWXCE (be sure to order 2 sets) to give it a bit of a bounce when it bottoms out which is great as I type heavy. The noise it makes is distinctive and satisfying even with the o-rings.
   
   
9. Do they make your fingers smell like metal?
   The green fingers and distinct smell of zinc keys are from unplated zinc keycaps and since these are plated it is not an issue.
   
   
10. Do fingerprints or dust show more easily on these?
    I can usually wipe off any residue with my fingers. Zinc keycaps are fairly resistant to marks or stains and very easy to clean as well. The plated metal does not show any noticeable fingerprints and it is very difficult to see any fingerprint residue even in the brightest of lights. No matter which keyboard you own be sure you have some isopropyl rubbing alcohol available for cleaning up.
    
    
11. How much did your Full Metal Filco Cost?
    $215 Keycaps $150 Case $150 Keyboard $16 O-rings. I will hopefully be able to sell the Ninja keycaps and Filco case and other accessories that I accumulated to help fund part of the cost. All items I currently have available will be in my Album http://imgur.com/a/5tsOm or on /r/mechmarket

While I’m waiting on my Lumina to come in, I figure I’d do a cheaper, experimental tactile build.

Keyboard: Duck Sidewinder Gray

• Duck Sidewinder
  
  Stabs: GMK Screw in Stabalizers w/ Walker Mod (no adhesive sticker)
  
  
• GMK Screw in Stabalizers
  
  
• Permatex Dielectric Grease
  
  
• Orings
  
  Switches: Holy Razers
  
  
• Greetech SMD RGB bottoms
  
  
• Outemu ICE V2 tops
  
  
• Halo True stems
  
  
• Krytox 205 GPL 0
  
  Butyl Rubber
  
  
• Non Adhesive for the case
  
  
• Adhesive for the spacebar
  
  Keycaps:
  
  
• Blue Grey XDA Keycap Set
  
  I needed something to scratch my itch while I wait for my Lumina, so I decided to pick up the Duck Sidewinder and screw around with some mods. I have a bunch of halo’s and Outemu Ice V2’s lying around, so I decided to pick up some Greetech switches to mess around with. After lubing them up with Krytox 205, I had a good set of holy razers, and I’m pretty happy with them.
  
  I’ve used butyl rubber to deaden the sound in my keyboards before, but this is the first time using it on the spacebar. I actually like the added weight in the spacebar, and I had no idea if I would or not.
  
  As far as the caps go… Truth be told, I’m not much of a fan, but I was hoping the dark blue would bring out the blue tones in the case, and I think it did pretty well. I’ll keep them on for bit and see if they grow on me. It's just hard to find a good set of caps that are colemak compatible. Currently I'm waiting on these.
  
  I’m pretty excited to have this as my daily driver for awhile :)

> I also don't have any thermal paste yet

• The Phanteks CPU cooler will come with some that should be more than good enough. If you want separate I recently switched to the Arctic MX-4 non-conductive from my ol' reliable Arctic Silver 5.
  
• http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835186038
  
  > Oh, it also looks like I need a keyboard! Any suggestions
  
  
• If you want a high end keyboard that will last ages, you'll want a mechanical keyboard. You'll spend $80-$150 on a nice keyboard though. Some generic/re-branded mechanical keyboards can be found for about $60.
  
  
• Mechanical keyboards come a few different flavors. Different switch types have different feels to them.
  
  
• Blues are great for heavy typing and MMOs. They have a click you can both feel and hear.
  
• Red (and Black) are smooth with no click or tactile feedback. Preferred by competitive gamers.
  
• Browns are a nice blend of the two. You get a slight tactile bump to signal switch activation without the audible click. They are well rounded to both typing and gaming.
  
  
• For someone new to mechanical keyboards I'd suggest Reds or Blues. They will have the most noticeable improvement in feel to the cheapo keyboards.
  
  
• There's currently a solid little deal on these Red Switch, Red LED Backlight keyboards to match your color theme:
  
  
• http://www.outletpc.com/rm3622-cm-storm-quickfire-tk-red-mechanical-keyboard.html
  
  
• http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HGIBY04/
  
  
  
• Personally, I'm using a blue switch keyboard, modified with oring sound dampeners. Gives me great typing for reddit and emails, with a shorter switch throw that works well for me with gaming. It doesn't have fancy backlighting, but gets the job done. I've used Reds, Blacks, Browns, and Blues. While I prefer Reds and Blacks slightly for FPS gaming. I do so much typing I adore the clicky Blues.
  
  
• http://pcpartpicker.com/part/cooler-master-keyboard-sgk4000gkcl1us
  
• http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FMWLR8
  
  
• If you want to browse some more... Newegg is having a nice Mechanical keyboard sale:
  
  
• http://www.newegg.com/Peripherals/EventSaleStore/ID-46?srchInDesc=mechanical%20keyboard
  
  
  Edit: For some more exotic mechanical keyboards keep an eye on MassDrop.com - Often have cool ones like this: https://www.massdrop.com/buy/leopold-fc660m
  

I've blown about $7,220 total so far on my supercharger kit - here's what I've bought and spent so far:

.

Used Pettit SC Kit
[$4,750]

.

Full SuperCharger Compressor Unit Rebuild at Kenne Bell
http://www.kennebell.net/KBWebsite/Reman_SC_pg/layouts/remansc.htm
[$750]

.

Ryan Racing 6-Rib Pulleys - Full Set with wider belt plus 8-PSI and 11-PSI SC Pulleys, Anodized Blue
https://www.ryanrotaryperformance.com/
[$713]

.

GReddy CAI, Custom-Built Version for Pettit SC Applications (slightly different from Turbo version on their site)
https://www.rx8performance.com/products/greddy-turbo-cold-air-intake-1
[$365]

.

KOYO Radiator from Black Halo Racing, All Aluminum
https://black-halo-racing.myshopify.com/collections/rx8-engine/products/koyo-performance-radiator
[$280]

.

MAZMART RE-Medy Water Pump With Thermostat to Replace Shitty Stock Series 1 Version
http://shop.mazmart.com/en/rx8-re-medy-high-flow-water-pump
[$345]

.

12"x12" Gasket Material to cut UIM->LIM Seals From (old gaskets on SC unit are all burnt up/shredded from previous uninstall job)
https://www.amazon.com/Viton-Fluoroelastomer-Sheet-Gasket-Black/dp/B0075ZN4RE
[$18]

.

I still have a few more little odds and ends to get, but I've essentially bought all the big stuff. When all is said and done, total expenses will likely be around $8-9k overall. Put in perspective, I bought my 2007 RX8 for $9,500 in 2013 with 34k original miles on it under a salvage title; it's probably worth half that much now. So yeah, my SC kit is worth way more than my car lol. Oh well, so goes the life of the obsessive modder/HP junkie. I still love it. I can not WAIT to get his thing installed!

I just put o-rings on my alphanumerics on MX Clears and I'm enjoying it. It does actually make what I already feel is a quiet keyboard quieter, which was some of my goal. I also feel like it somehow made my typing a little more accurate, but that's likely just in my head. It definitely changed the way the keys feel a little bit, they have a bit of a "tighter" feel for lack of a better word (I'm sure there's someone more fluent in keyboard that can better attest to o-rings on Clears). Personally, I like the change a lot as I almost feel like it makes the keys heavier and the presses more defined. I might change my mind and go without; I've only been using them for 2 days so far.

For anyone considering, honestly, pick some up for $2 with Prime shipping and just try it out for a bit. Worst case scenario you're out of $2 and then you have a vehement negative opinion that you can later share in threads like this, woo!

Note that Hydroflask bottles DO work with any wide-mouth cap such as Nalgene bottle caps, including my absolute favorite, the CapCap (it even has a fun name!). However, you do need O Rings like these to prevent leaking since it's about a 99% fit. I like these caps better because the opening is much bigger, especially if you like your KC a little thicker.

Found exactly what I needed, from Amazon, not that I need 100 of them, but this is the exact size from my original Plume Veil that works perfectly. Only $5 shipped, they had a 25 pack, but they were 17.5mm ID / 19.5mm OD instead of 17/19.

Thanks for anyone who gave me other options too, I appreciate it!!

Looking for a full-size with MX Browns for general use plus gaming (USA), and the following are all pluses: Mac layout, white LED, detachable cord, simple aesthetics, and "floating keys" like Varmilo (definitely not all hard requirements except full size and Browns).

Current plan is WASD Code (has everything except floating keys, for 150 on Amazon or less if I can wait for MassDrop) with these O-rings (look equivalent to regular red ones), plus Vortex doubleshot PBT+POM backlit white keycaps thick OEM height ones that apparently look great on specifically the Code (plus they match my white Corsair 600T hackintosh case).

Any ideas? Decent cheaper alternatives I hadn't considered? Concerns I should be aware of with this setup? This Ducky One looks like a decent cheaper board at 120 with Browns and white LED, but the availability is listed only as preorder, which sounds to me like “unavailable for who knows how long”.

Apologies for my noobiness, and happy holidays!

Yeah, I use a keyboard with MX Browns at work and installed o-rings under the switches and it's pretty quiet. I bottom out when I type and even then, I'm pretty sure nobody around me is bothered by it.

For anyone wondering, these are the exact o-rings I bought. Under $2 and shipped with Prime, and they fit perfectly.

It's a 100-pack so I think you might have to buy 2 if you want to cover every key on a full-size keyboard (I used one set of 100 on 2 keyboards, just covering the letter+number+modifier+spacebar/return/backspace keys). But still, buying 2 sets of these is under $4.

On the inside or outside of the kettle? I trashed that white silicone (I think) O-ring inside the kettle pretty quickly. But the black one on the outside is less important, considering if the inside is leaking it's gonna go in between the double wall off the vessel regardless of how good of a seal you have on the outside.

Either way, I found a pretty good replacement for the one inside, a thick red silicone oring and a big flat stainless steel washer behind that before the nut goes on to help keep the oring pressed tight against the kettle wall. I think this is the O-ring I ended up with. I can verify when I get home, and I can also find the one I used outside the kettle if that's what you are looking for.

Buy these. Think they are what I got and work perfectly
https://www.amazon.com/Rubber-3-00X1-00mm-Mechanical-Black-Washers/dp/B01J50NMLE/ref=sr_1_15?keywords=3mm+rubber+washer&qid=1571071572&sr=8-15

I would not glue them.

If you use these washers you can take them apart and store them were you keep the tiles and just keep the posts in a small box with the washers in the game. Use a washer at the top and at the bottom like in my example here.

https://imgur.com/FFEHCh3

Good Luck Conquering the Galaxy!

Not sure if these are technically meant for a keyboard, and you won't be able to tell someone the exact size rating (in terms of the Cherry MX o-ring thicknesses from the pic I linked) but they're pretty cheap, there are more than enough for a full size keyboard, and they're what I used on my BW Ultimate: Amazon Link.

You need a keycap puller (or a way to get keycaps off) if you don't have one, but those are pretty cheap and easy to find.

For the main plunger and pusher seal I use 217 sized Silicone O rings. You can get them right here off amazon.


The O ring seat I use is currently just a flat surface. I've experimented with floating seals and a sloped seat but really noticed no difference. The actual diameter of the O ring seat is highly variable, because of the high variation in the old Poly tube I had to individually tune each blaster's seat. The usual range of diameters was between 1.22" and 1.24".


For the prototype Alloy tube (Which actually has a slightly larger ID of 1.509") I've currently worked the O ring seat to a diameter of 1.232", and even at that I believe I can go a few thou smaller while maintaining a perfect seal. I'm hoping that once the alloy PT becomes production ready, because of it's greater consistency individual seal tuning for each blaster will be a thing of the past.

Story time... I've had this Filco with blues for awhile and never done anything to it. A few months ago I picked up a CODE with clears and my poor Filco sat abandoned and unloved. Recently, Massdrop did a group buy for Ducky PBT caps and I decided it was time to breathe some new life back into my Filco. I wanted to bring it back to work so I also took the opportunity to install some o-ring dampeners (Amazon, non-referral).

I love the keycaps, they feel great -- I'm a big fan of the texture. The o-rings make a big difference for me because I always bottom out. The one's I ordered from Amazon are a hybrid of the two offered by WASD because I wanted a harder ring with less travel reduction. If you're wishing your blues were a little quieter these are great o-rings.

The best option is to spend some money on a decent quality USB supply.(Note, the official supply is crappy!) I'd suggest trying it out with another USB supply if you have one - I find the Samsung ones are pretty good.

You probably don't need 3A unless you're attaching a number of high power peripherals to the Pi.

If this doesn't resolve your issue, then you could buy a audio ground loop isolator, that stops the leaky current from making it to the sound system. Something like this should do the trick: http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000NVWB9O

ok the right person has found your distress call as a registered tech nerd these are my recommendations

this is option 1 O rings if you can take the key "caps" off your keyboard buy these and put these on BOOM your keyboard will be whisper quite only works for mechanical keyboards

https://www.amazon.com/LESOLEIL-225pcs-Hydraulic-Assortment-Pneumatic/dp/B011QKAS3Q/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1518320067&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=o+ring+kit&psc=1

should you not have a good keyboard or the one you have is not mechanical I recommend this a cheaper scaled down version of the k95 programmable keys let you make commands like copy and paste super easy and can help more then you'd think this board is compatible with the O ring kit above to with those you'd have a solid keyboard for anything that's quite

hope this helps!

https://www.amazon.com/CORSAIR-K55-RGB-Gaming-Keyboard/dp/B01M4LIKLI/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1518320171&sr=1-3&keywords=corsair+keyboard

I got this keyboard for $50 after rebate, I really enjoy it (my first mechanical). Whenever I go to my college library, I always contemplate bringing the keyboard in to type on the computers because their rubber domed keys feel like I'm trying to type on a keyboard made of Play-Doh. Unresponsive, slow, and generally unpleasant to use.



A word of advice for someone who is thinking about getting a mechanical keyboard, even if the switches don't make much sound, the keys bottoming out / rebounding tend to be quite loud. This is why I invested in some rubber o-rings which limited the sound the keyboard makes when bottoming out. The ones from amazon are similar to the ones that WASDkeyboards sells for $18 (I assume its comparable to the 50A-R). They do influence the feel of the keyboard, but I think the noise reduction is worth it.



Overall, if you've been looking for a good keyboard to get for a new gaming computer, or if you're planning on upgrading to a mechanical keyboard, I would definitely suggest this (even though it is $10 more than what I paid for it).

Edit: If you are new to mechanical keyboards, keep in mind that they are generally taller than dome keyboards (base is roughly 3/4 inch tall). Also, this keyboard isn't fully back-lit if you were looking for a keyboard which is, I advise you look elsewhere.

I've started looking at alternate (i.e. not specifically for robotics) options, but for some of our needs we need some specific sizes or odd shapes (think cams with rubber edge vs wheels) so printing a hub would be easy, but finding a tire isn't.

It occurred to me after my initial question that I could probably get some large O-rings and print the hub to fit those and some quick amazon searches look promising. Who knew silicone o-rings came in such a very wide variety of sizes?

https://www.amazon.com/421-Buna-N-Ring-Durometer-Round/dp/B0051XYEGW/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=o-ring+4+inch&qid=1574202331&sr=8-9

or silicone options in lots of different sizes https://www.amazon.com/s?k=silicone+o-ring+%221%2F4+width%22&ref=nb_sb_noss_2

I bought 8 kegs once years back and 2 were missing parts, it was quite the research project to get them up to snuff. 2 liquid posts, poppets, 2 lids, gas dip tube. I replaced all gaskets. I had to replace half a dozen poppets and 3 pressure release valves. All up is was another $100 or so.

Make sure you note the make/model when you buy your posts, the lids are pretty much all the same unless they're racetrack (yours are not), universal poppets from rightbrew work great. Lids, relief valves and posts I found on Adventures in Homebrewing, the posts will depend on gas or liquid (they are different!) and your keg model.

You can get bulk o-rings on amazon for dirt cheap instead of paying a few dollars per keg and swap them out often. Posts, diptubes, and lids have these 3 sizes.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FMYR9S/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051XYDYU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FMYRBG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Get yourself some spark plug/deep sockets, you need a 7/8 and an 11/16 most likely, get the star shaped ones, you will need them on some of yours (usually the gas post, gas post has notches in the base). Fiddling with a crescent wrench is a nightmare.

I've used these they are pretty good, you can get free 2 day shipping too if you have Amazon Prime. Currently out of stock at the moment though.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FMWLR8/

I have these because I think paying $20 for orings is retarded. Typing is fine, maybe just less enjoyable, but still a lot nicer than my old keyboards. It really prevented the ping I used to get from bottoming out, but I feel they are a lot less useful now that I type properly and don't slam the keys.

WASD Keyboards the blue ones will dampen sound the most.

Max Keyboard

Amazon. Both WASD Keyboards and Max Keyboard also has O-rings on Amazon. Free shipping on Max Keyboard's O-rings and Amazon Prime on WASD Keyboards' red O-rings (blues are out of stock).

I honestly wouldn't bother with eBay unless if you want the buyer protection.

Switches: If you're leaning towards Cherry MX switches but are still unsure of which ones you prefer, you can get a switch tester that includes red, black, brown, clear, blue, and green switches, as well as O-rings.

No matter which of switch you choose, it will still produce some noise, due to the key caps bottoming out. If you prefer a long-term keyboard with switches that produce tactile feedback, such as browns, blues, greens, etc., but are worried about the noise, you can get O-rings like these.

Which switch? I also code for lengthy periods of time and would prefer typing with something that produces tactile feedback, like either browns or blues. But since you have roommates, maybe browns would be better... unless they don't mind the click-clack noise, then get the blues since they're more satisfactory to type with. Heavy typer? Maybe you'll prefer greens since they require more force.

Keyboards: Of the keyboards you've narrowed down to, the Das or K70 are good. There're also the non-RGB K70s with single color LEDs that are cheaper than the ones with RGBs and come in red and brown switches.

I've owned the K70s with red LEDs and red switches and currently own the Ducky Minis with green switches. The LEDs on my K70 lasted throughout the time I've used it (< 2 years), but a friend's K70 had some that stopped working several months after use :/ I eventually sold the K70 and prefer green switches and a 60% mechKB since it's more portable.

It's a good board, nothing fancy but it works well, I don't really like flashy, showy things anyways.

Both of mine have MX Clear switches and the original has o-rings and PBT blacked out caps.

I suppose I could try something like that or invest a couple buck in these. This frame is a bit weird and comes with tall standoffs to build on top of as seen better here. I believe they are metal so i added a nylon bolt on top of them and then my PDB. I suppose I could replace that bolt with the oring or double sided tape. If that doesn't work and I need a new, what would you recommend around the $20-30 range?

Most of these folks are right- blues are pretty noisy even with O-rings, but I will say that O-rings WILL quiet it down a bit. The bottoming out sound of the keycap is quite a bit louder than the actual switch actuating. A user here referred me to some cheap o-rings here that I quite like and would recommend, but it looks like they're not available at the moment. :/

If the reds are softer than the blacks, i don't know how you'll rest your fingers on the keys w/out depressing them. I find the blacks to be ideal for gaming and more than acceptable for typing. If I did more typing than mousing, I'd definitely want browns or blues.

Be sure to get yourself some O-rings though, otherwise you'll need some earplugs.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051XWXCE/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Buna O-Ring, 50A Durometer, Round, Black by Small Parts http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0052AU0HQ/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_TIjxtb0EZTBM2
Model 008 (3/16 ID - Inner Diameter)
$8.25 currently
Just put these on my Brown switches and really like them. Hopefully that helps!

Those o-rings would work. There are different o-rings, I personally have little experience using them. /u/lpwl made a comment in a post a while ago:


>- A thicker O-ring will reduce key travel more than a thinner one.

• A softer O-ring will make a switch quiet more effectively than a harder one.
  
• The more material the O-ring has, the more it can dampen shocks and noise.
  
  >In other words :
  
  >- If you want to quiet down the keyboard and soften the landing, get soft o-rings, ie in 40A or 50A durometer.
  
• If you want to quiet down the keyboard but keep a hard landing, get hard ones (70 - 90A durometer)... however their noise dampening won't be as good as the soft ones.
  
  Here's a good post on his website that goes more into depth about o-rings. And here's a post on Geekhack.
  
  If you want to skip reading all that then from what I've read the 40A-L Red O-Rings ($15) from WASD Keyboards is the most popular choice and Buna-N O-Ring 50A ($7). If you don't mind waiting a long time you can get o-rings on Ebay for $1.08, the measurements of this is very close to the red o-rings from WASD.

While the Cherry MX Dampeners are probably pretty nice, I couldn't justify throwing an extra $20 on my keyboard so I used these instead:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FMWLR8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They fit the stems very well and offer a good amount of dampening without making the keys feel mushy (at least to me). I like it so much that I even put them on my brown-switch k70.

Be aware: your blue switches will still be very clicky, you just won't get the "clack" when you bottom out and the bottoming out distance will be shallower (a plus for me, but that's personal).

fuck yes i want pics. sounds like you almost went with dolch style color scheme.

nice price too. did you end up with brown switches?

o-rings can be really nice if you like to bottom out all the time. i do and it saves my fingers a lot of stress with my insane cave man style of key pounding.

i bought these on amazon. they seem nice enough.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051XWXCE/ref=oh_details_o09_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

it is a nice quick little mod. it also allows me to use my board in my cubicle at work. but i use blues. you use browns? you might be able to use browns at an office or at school without disturbing people.

Going to second giving o-rings a shot, I've got mx browns and some 70A o-rings from Amazon and they definitely quiet it down a lot. They were all of $2, so it's a pretty cheap thing to try. I actually like the stiffer o-rings compared to 50A, I find the softer o-rings leave the keys feeling a bit mushy when bottoming out while gaming.

First off try doing the o-ring modification with these. I found that it cut down on the sound of my mech keyboard and made the keyboard a bit nicer to type on.

If you really want to bail on mechanical though I use this for coding at work and I really like it for that. Otherwise I actually really like apple's usb keyboard with the numpad.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FMWLR8/
I got these for my keyboard, they fit great!

Also my first mech (haven't arrived yet though). I heard people like blues for typing and RTS (I plan to play SC2 on it) but perhaps not for FPS as the clicking might get annoying. The bottoming out probably produces the most noise though, so o-rings are good for that. The nice clicking will remain even with the o-rings. I just got these which are about 1/2 price of "keyboard-specific" o-rings.

http://www.amazon.com/008-Buna-N-O-Ring-Durometer-Black/dp/B000FMWLR8/ref=pd_sim_sbs_indust_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1QT0BXXR3WW3FT9HNMF9

^^ Cheap o-rings. O-rings are essentially all the same (quality-wise, they're just little rubber rings lol). But like puppies said, there are varying sizes/thicknesses that you can choose. The above link is for 70A, browse the related products, as the thicknesses can range from like 50A upwards, look for what you like.

Corsair K70 RGB (MX Reds) here,

Totally agree with this guy, the O rings make a nice difference, there is less travel but you get used to it. I was surprised to find that there wasn't a difference in the light output when the O-Rings go on. Just search amazon for "keyboard o rings". I ended up buying these.

Welcome to the stealth club.

I kinda wish I had gone with blue switches instead. Browns don't seem to offer enough feedback.

If you want to make it "stealthy"/quieter, grab a set of these and put them on the keycaps.

Here are the O-Rings that I bought along side the WASD keyboard ones.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051XWXCE/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The WASD Keyboard brand ones are defiantly a lot softer and dampen a little better than the generic brands. :)

I believe these are ones most people buy. Note that o-rings will make the bottoming out a bit more like rubber domes, kind of squishy, but you will have less key travel distance, and it will be easier to actuate the switch a second time (i.e. you don't have to lift your fingers as high to get the switch to register again).

I mean that's a totally fine train of thought. I just recommended them because I felt my browns were way too loud. Once I got my o rings, the sound got dampened significantly, so I thought the 8 dollars I spent on the O rings was justified.

http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051XWXCE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Cheap o-rings in Europe / Germany?

All prices I found through google are around 14-17 € or need some kind of mass buy.

I wouldn't mind the price but I don't even know if I even like them or the exact size I want.

I know of the cheap US ones but I can't really order from US Amazon and may have to pay shipping and Zoll anyway

I have a qpad mk 80 with reds by the way.

Ground loops work in mysterious ways, but considering all three of those components have separate earth connections, it's almost certainly a ground loop.

The ground loop probably isn't between the USB and the DAC, though - it's probably between the DAC and the speaker. Use a transformer-based RCA isolator like this - https://www.amazon.co.uk/AV-Link-Ground-Loop-Isolator/dp/B000NVWB9O (a million different companies sell them)

I have the BWU as well and used these. They worked fine and slightly mute the sound of them hitting the board when you push a key in. It wont make then silent, but it helps and is a cheap purchase.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051XWXCE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have a blues keyboard. I ended up getting these o-rings to place underneath the keys which ended up cutting the sound of the audio in like half. The loudest part of blues is when you bottom out and the key hits the bottom of the keyboard. O-rings pretty much dampen that, which makes it much quieter. You can also put O-rings on browns etc.

If you type forcefully then most of the noise is from the former, You can get o-rings for your blackwidow, without needing a new keyboard! If you aren't set on getting a new keyboard try it first, razer even sells a (Overpriced) o ring kit. Or you could get this If you get the secound you will also need a keycap puller, which the razer kit includes. It will still be cheaper, esp if you have amazon prime.


The only reason you would need a new keyboard is if the click it makes before it hits the bottom is too loud, or you want something nicer then a razer.

I have a corsair k70 and its been great. If they are too loud you can put these under the keys.

http://www.amazon.com/008-Buna-N-O-Ring-Durometer-Round/dp/B0051XWXCE/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=2NH93HWQXLFID&coliid=I1HXCMYO97FC78&psc=1

So what I bought were:
https://www.amazon.com/111-Silicone-Ring-Durometer-Width/dp/B000FMWNZS/
and
https://www.amazon.com/109-Silicone-Ring-Durometer-Width/dp/B000FMWNS0/

I think I just bought the lid rings from the homebrew shop. These silicone ones last a lot longer than the typical black ones. The usual rings would always get gnarly and make it hard to remove the quick disconnects.

Hope that helps.

Get these, $2.08 for a pack of 100. They work great on my wife's DS4:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FMWLR8

Arduino- any, as long as it works with the receiver.

Transistor/Mosfet/Optoisolator


http://www.amazon.com/uxcell%C2%AE-IRF520-Button-Arduino-Raspberry/dp/B00W8TXEAE?ie=UTF8&keywords=mosfet%20module&qid=1464360817&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1

http://www.amazon.com/Numato-Lab-Opto-Isolator-Breakout/dp/B00UWSGXEW?ie=UTF8&keywords=optoisolator&qid=1464361849&ref_=sr_1_2&sr=8-2 -> http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-phVffuTIozI/TnFo6ElSU3I/AAAAAAAAD8g/l3DzlgcfAWs/s1600/GarageDoor-Opener-with-Optoisolator.png (source)

Relay http://www.amazon.com/TOOGOO-Module-Development-Appliance-Control/dp/B00TO7IY76?ie=UTF8&keywords=relay%20module&qid=1464360732&ref_=sr_1_3&sr=8-3 - depending on the current. It also draws more current, but can switch AC.


The relay and optocoupler solutions have the advantage of the circuits being independant.

It seems I'll need to change that in the cpu_map then because my VFD's minimum frequency is 2.0khz.

This is the opto isolater I got.

EDIT So the frequency is now definitely on 7.8khz and I still have the same issue. So once I get the opto isolator figured out that's my next (and hopefully final) step.

I went brown to not completely drive my family crazy. Unfortunately, I've been toting it between home and work, and now I want to buy another for the office. THAT one will have blues :D

If you're looking to add o-rings, someone tipped me off to these $2 beauties on amazon and they're working wonderfully.

[modification] Perfect $2 O-Rings for reduced travel/sound (100 pk)

http://www.amazon.com/008-Buna-N-O-Ring-Durometer-Black/dp/B000FMWLR8/ref=pd_sim_sbs_indust_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1QT0BXXR3WW3FT9HNMF9

A post from yesterday

If you want to save money this is the way to go

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051XWXCE/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i03?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Get these. It doesn't completely silence the keyboard, but it keeps the keys from bottoming out and making the louder 'clank' noise. It also reduces travel distance of the keys, making it slightly easier to type.

Some are reporting that these o-rings (15 x 1 x 17mm) fit the kayfun body:

http://www.fasttech.com/p/1208503

I bought the 008 Buna-N Orings for my Russian 91% chimney top, it seems to work ok...

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FMWLR8/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

There are some available on Amazon for very cheap. From what I've read they're slightly stiffer than their WASD cousins. I'm unfamiliar with Amazon's shipping policies, but I imagine their logistics infrastructure is faster than someone like WASD.

Also, the color of the o-ring won't have any effect on backlighting. The two colors that are primarily available (red and blue from WASD) are of differing thicknesses.

Most commonly in plumbing & faucets. Try searching for or asking for "silicone faucet o rings". Look into getting several sizes like 16mm, 19mm, and 22mm rings.

​

www.amazon.com/016-Silicone-Ring-Durometer-Width/dp/B000FMWOAW/ I found these on amazon through a Saudi VPn so they should be available to you.

I use these and they're pretty cheap.

Though they're on the stiffer side, they worked well on every switch I've used them on: clears, greens, blues, and reds.

EDIT: Accidentally switched the link and link title. hurrdurr

thanks for the help. I found these (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051XWXCE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER) but they dont ship to my country (Norway) would there be a way to get them any closer?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FMWOAW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These work pretty well. And I got a lifetime supply for $4

They have the 1/8" thick ones for 10 dollars but I don't think it makes much difference.

Ok I guess I paid more than $3, these show as $8 right now: http://www.amazon.com/008-Buna-N-O-Ring-Durometer-Round/dp/B0051XWXCE/ref=pd_sim_pc_1

But if you search for "o-ring" on Amazon there are quite a few results that are cheaper, in varying sizes.

I ordered like.... a hundred for 11 bucks off amazon.

EDIT: Sorry, correction, it's like a dollar fifty for a hundred

Link

I use these http://amazon.com/gp/product/B0051XWXCE though I know that you can get the nice coloured ones from WASD.

I tried a sample of the o-rings from WASD and found the 40a rubber was too soft for my liking. If I bottomed out, they felt mushy. Check these out, slightly harder and only $2, compared to $15.

Slime? I assume you mean slim...

For anyone interested, this is the actual one I was looking at and one of the reviewers said it would work. Measurements seem to match closely to the ones on wasd.


http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0051XWXCE/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

For $2, I used these on my browns. Probably took about 20 minutes to put them on. Definitely takes the edge off the noises from bottoming out.

• WASD CODE TKL
  
• Originative Carbon Black PBT Keycaps
  
• 70A Durometer o-rings
  
• Cherry MX Clear
  
  O-Rings

It's because of how soft they are. The reds specifically are extremely spongy. I would recommend getting WASD's Sample and testing them out. I tried them and they were way to soft. I ended up getting these ones from Amazon. They are much more dense, so they don't mask sounds as well, but they are hard enough to not have any mushy feeling if you bottom out.

I bought these for my QuickFire Rapid (black), removes the "mushy" feeling as some describe it. Feels really good and solid. Not sure about shipping to Canada, but these o-rings are very common and there are tons of reviews of users installing them on heir MechKBs.

Without changing the feeling of the key stroke? You would probably need something with a low shore rating. Maybe somewhere in the 20A range. I suggest that you just use something with a relatively higher rating and is readily available like this one I listed below, you'll get used to it pretty quickly. You can also find some in the 40A range but they tend to be more expensive for some reason.

http://www.amazon.com/008-Buna-N-O-Ring-Durometer-Round/dp/B0051XWXCE/ref=pd_sim_pc_5?t=slickdeals&tag=slickdeals&ascsubtag=BTRsovXOEeK0Lc5lAEKLqQje75_6CQe3_0_0_0

Either get them from amazon or WASD. WASD has options for softer o-rings which are quieter. The ones from amazon are hard, but give a crisp feel IMO ( i have the amazon ones). here: the dash-size is 008

http://www.amazon.com/008-Buna-N-O-Ring-Durometer-Round/dp/B0052AU0HQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1368113366&sr=1-1&keywords=o-ring+mechanical+keyboard

or WASD:

http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/cherry-mx-rubber-switch-dampeners.html

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0051XWXCE


Something like that ^^

Put an order in for the brown version yesterday along with some o-rings. Since the browns looked like they were going fast, I didn't have enough time to get in-depth on my search for o-rings and grabbed these to throw on the same order.

008 Buna-N O-Ring, 50A Durometer, Round, Black, 3/16" ID, 5/16" OD, 1/16" Width (Pack of 125)

you can get o-rings for like $2 man they're just rubber.
For example, I use these on my Ducky Gold http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FMWLR8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Found these in my amazon purchase history, they fit my gas and liquid posts (pin lock, but I think ball lock is the same).

I think these work for the lids, but I don't think these are the exact ones I bought.

I used these:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FMWLR8/ref=pe_385040_121528360_TE_dp_p4

Nice and cheap, did the job just as well as the .4mm ones from Max Keyboard I'd previously tried. There might be a minor difference in travel limitations for the key -- but we're talking a tenth of a mm at most, and if you aren't bottoming out every key press you won't even notice that. The difference being that these are ever so slightly smaller than the .4mm's.

I'm curious as well. I recently got these for my Nighthawk X7 : http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FMWLR8/

Only lasted a few hours before I was like "fuck this" and took them out.

I'd say it's such a minute difference between them, I opted to buy some small rubber rings instead of branded "o-rings". You can check them out here! They work fine for me!

I use mine (Gateron Reds) as a travel board. These should arrive today so people don't get annoyed by the clack. My logic is that it's worth trying out for $2.

You can get those same WASD ones direct from Amazon in either Red .2mm or Blue .4mm which at least saves you on shipping if you have Prime.

You can also get more generic, plain o-rings on Amazon in slightly different hardness. Both of these should work just as well for a considerably lower price. I found them via mech related links from Massdrop and here, but have tried neither myself.

I put these on my QFR blues. Now, they don't bottom out and just do the clicky sound. Much more consistent sounding since every keypress sounds the same.
I assume you'll get similar results with the wasd ones. I also bought the sampler pack from wasd but couldn't decide on which ones I wanted, so I ended up with the amazon ones.

I had no idea O-rings were basically just industry specific rubber rings you don't have to buy at $18 from a keyboard shop.(makes sense when you think about it)
Mind blown, bought 200 of these for $4.
Thanks!

If you're interested, these are the ones I used on my keyboard. I think the Razer blue switches are a little different than the standard ones, but I don't see any reason they wouldn't work with how similar the two are.

These rings severely reduce the clack from bottoming out and they are quite a bit denser than most other rings, so they are not squishy. Highly recommended. Don't buy into the clear rings, they don't affect the backlight to justify the cost.

Source: Own three mechanical keyboards and I like them so much, I put rings on all of them.

You can get harder o-rings (eg. 70A ones) for a harder bottom out while keeping the noise reduction. They sell these on Amazon for 2 dollars (only ships to the US, though): http://www.amazon.com/008-Buna-N-O-Ring-Durometer-Black/dp/B000FMWLR8

Here is the Amazon page: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051XWXCE/

Not sure where the whole anti-red stigma comes from. You can easily solve the issue by using thick o-rings. It makes the actuation distance equal the total travel distance (2mm), which is where you would normally have the bump in browns. This means that you still get tactile feedback and you don't waste time bottoming out an extra 2mm.

As far as making "mistakes" go, that's a sign of poor typing skills. It means you moved your finger when you weren't supposed to. Don't blame the switch when it's you.

Browns just get in the way with their bump, which isn't tactile enough to feel when you're typing rapidly. You push through the bump with very little effect at all. Clears are much more noticeable, but they also take more force.

I just got this keyboard to, if you don't like the loud clacking from bottoming out, you can get o-rings to use as spacers under the keys, quieted mine down, so all I hear is the blues clicking.

Link to the o-rings on amazon.

If you want to try out some "cheap" o-rings check out this. They are a harder then the stuff that you can snag from WASD, but I actually prefer them over the ones from the Sampler Kit my brother got from them.

These work for mechanical keyboards and are a little cheaper alternative (not exactly what you're looking for but at least something to look into). http://www.amazon.com/008-Buna-N-O-Ring-Durometer-Round/dp/B0051XWXCE/ref=pd_sim_pc_43?ie=UTF8&refRID=03FZ1HQD6G9QPY8Q69KS

That being said, they're 50A not 40A. Otherwise, maybe someone has 4 extra they wouldn't mind shipping you?

$8.25 at Amazon.

if you live in the U.S you can get them for $8
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0051XWXCE/

Otherwise I would guess they range around $20. ^^^^iwishiwasintheus

Jel zna neko kako se ovo zove na Srpskom? https://www.amazon.co.uk/AV-Link-Ground-Loop-Isolator/dp/B000NVWB9O

http://www.amazon.com/008-Buna-N-O-Ring-Durometer-Round/dp/B0051XWXCE/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

http://www.amazon.com/Black-Rings-Sealing-Gasket-Washer/dp/B008ASXS76/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1415484297&sr=8-5&keywords=o+ring+2mm+mechanical

Found this.

http://www.amazon.com/008-Buna-N-O-Ring-Durometer-Black/dp/B000FMWLR8/ref=pd_sim_sbs_indust_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1QT0BXXR3WW3FT9HNMF9

A ground loop maybe. If it is, this will fix it at a very reasonable cost: https://www.amazon.co.uk/AV-Link-Ground-Loop-Isolator/dp/B000NVWB9O

O-Rings. 1, 2.

here you go.

Britfag. Would this do the monkey?

http://www.amazon.co.uk/AV-Link-201-086-Skytronic-Isolator/dp/B000NVWB9O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1452539733&sr=8-1&keywords=ground+loop

Like this?

Alternatively, you can get a pack of 125 for $8.25 on Amazon.

I used these, but felt they made bottoming out too mushy.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0051XWXCE/ref=pe_175190_21431760_M2T1_SC_dp_1

Try these O-rings.

Edit: The size 008 of these is a bit softer.

http://www.amazon.com/008-Buna-N-O-Ring-Durometer-Round/dp/B0051XWXCE/ref=pd_ybh_20

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000FMYSEM/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1396656521&sr=1-1%CF%80=SX200_QL40

Here is the link

orings ....

I bought these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008ASXS76/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hurr Go

I can't tell a difference between these and the 60A that cost $20/100.

How about $8 from Amazon? These are harder (50A) than the blue/red sets, and should have a travel reduction of about 0.2mm

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FMWLR8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 they say $4 now, but I bought them for 2.20 about a month ago.

I just bought some O rings (https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B008ASXS76/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and put them under and over the FC(http://i.imgur.com/80icq5W.jpg) If you got not enough space it might be enough to put them just under it

I bought these for 20$ including shipping to germany, which should be a lot less for domestic shipping.

Buna O - Rings

These are from Amazon but as long as they are the correct size any o-ring will work (your preference on hardness may vary); dental bands also work.

Here's an infographic for Cherry MX caps:O-Ring Informational.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051XWXCE/ref=oh_details_o07_s00_i04?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These are the ones I use on my QFR with browns. They make a big difference in noise level since I can't seem to learn not to bottom out.

008 Buna O-Ring, 50A Durometer, Round, Black by Small Parts

These. I don't know if they're hard or soft, but iirc they have a 2mm travel reduction.

MX reds, blues, browns use the same spring. The reds should feel slightly lighter because of no literal tactile bump on the stems.

Oh, the o-rings I've tried are the cheap 70 durometer ones off amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FMWLR8/
I believe using softer ones would make the reds feel even mushier.

TBH I prefer browns so much that I
haven't given the o-ring'd reds a proper try. I might try them later with 55g springs from originative.

I use these from Amazon. 2$, higher durometer rating to avoid the mushiness, and not price-gouging like WASD's stuff.

Maybe get yourself some o-rings in the mean time. I put these on not to long after I got a blue switch keyboard. You might notice the reduced key travel at first, but you forget soon. I used these cause cheap: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FMWLR8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For your dry firing needs:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FMWLR8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These are the ones I have, dont know the size in metric and Im to lazy to look it up

I have the red LED version of the K70 and the MX reds are pretty quiet. I put some O-rings on each key to limit their throw (the Reds actuate at the beginning of the depression rather than at the end like some other keys). The O-Rings made a HUGE difference in noise.

I find this keyboard to be just a smidge louder than my old logitech 510 but with the added benefits of being able to type without any sort of hand pain.

I had a similar issue to you a while back with noise coming through my amplified outputs:

http://www.reddit.com/r/headphones/comments/27dfv8/daily_headphone_purchase_advice_thread/chzti1m?context=3

I have managed to essentially solve the problem through the purchase of both ground loop isolators (any cheap ish one will do the trick), and a cheap mains conditioner.

Some that I ordered off Amazon.

There are many more too. No way you should ever have to pay $25 for fucking o-rings.

I got a set of 125 from Amazon for less than $9 shipped: 50A Durometer, Round, Black, 3/16" ID, 5/16" OD, 1/16" Width. Had no trouble with it on my KBT Pure.

Linky

No problem!

If you want to give it a shot for relatively cheap you can try out the ones I picked up

Two quick questions, both since parts of the wiki seem messed up or old.

- [Is this still the best deal on O rings?](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FMWLR8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) I took my shitty old ones off my pok3r and I hate how it feels now.

- Is there anywhere to cop a Leopold FC750R in that snow white style with cmx reds where you won't pay up the ass for it? I need to tell people I want something that isn't $400 for christmas, lol.

Update 2: I have found the cause of the problem and what was needed to fix. I will post below what i found so if anyone else gets this, they can fix it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wnN31snqR9o
Everything needed to fix this in this video. It was a grounding problem caused by a crappy PC. This little box eliminated all static noises, and has actually increased audio quality. With this i also bought a 2x1/4" jack to RCA cable, as that is the type of input my monitors take, all equipment used listed here: (UK Amazon)
Ground Loop Isolator: https://www.amazon.co.uk/AV-Link-Ground-Loop-Isolator/dp/B000NVWB9O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1522861082&sr=8-1&keywords=ground+loop&dpID=413Ja6ofpeL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
2x1/4" Jack to RCA: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B006H0E4YA/ref=psdc_407727031_t2_B004EBKV1Y
(Amazon.com products):
Ground Loop Isolator: https://www.amazon.com/InstallGear-Ground-Isolator-Noise-Filter/dp/B077Y5DLBB/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1522861210&sr=8-2&keywords=ground+loop+isolator
2x1/4" Jack to RCA: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O19/ref=psdc_3236443011_t1_B004NCYVY2

The problem seems to be that the ones that really reduce travel distance also seem to be the mushiest. Seems like most people who are installing o-rings are doing it for sound not how far your keys depress :(

I've only found one real "review" on o-rings in general and the guy was using blues not reds so not sure how much it will tell me. At $20 a pop for a set it's kind of a sucky "guess and check" situation I feel like.

--------------------

Edit: I think I found my answer: 70A... the number is a measure of hardness not size! Now I just have to find the right thickness in them...

Edit 2: Found them! 70A O-rings on amazon. Code 008 for the 1/16" and code 106 for the 3/32". At $2 a pop I can actually guess and check with these.

I don't know why my google-foo was sucking so much last night. I must have been tired.