Reddit mentions: The best serial cables
We found 218 Reddit comments discussing the best serial cables. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 67 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.
1. TRENDnet USB to Serial 9-Pin Converter Cable, TU-S9, Connect a RS-232 Serial Device to a USB 2.0 Port, Supports Windows & Mac, Supports USB 1.1, USB 2.0, USB 3.0, 25 Inch Cable Length, Plug & Play
- USB: The USB to serial adapter supports USB 1.1 and it is compatible with USB 2.0 and USB 3.0 ports.
- RS-232 SERIAL CONNECTOR: Connect RS-232 serial devices, such as modems or printers, using the widely supported USB standard found in most laptops and desktops today.
- SUPPORTED OPERATING SYSTEMS: The USB to serial converter adapter is compatible with Windows and Mac operating systems. Windows 10, 8.1, 8, 7. Mac OS 10.11, 10.10, 10.9, 10.8, 10.7, 10.6
- FLEXIBLE CABLE: Integrated and flexible 540mm (21 in.) USB 2.0 cable accommodates most installation scenarios. Total cable length of 25 inches when including the RS-232 (9pin) and USB Type A.
- EASY SETUP: Simple installation in seconds of the USB to Serial 9-Pin Converter Cable. Insert the your computer
Features:
Specs:
Color | Blue |
Height | 0.59055 Inches |
Length | 2.04724 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Release date | April 2020 |
Weight | 0.0881849048 Pounds |
Width | 1.37795 Inches |
2. Sabrent USB 2.0 to Serial (9-Pin) DB-9 RS-232 Converter Cable, Prolific Chipset, - HEXNUTS - , [Windows 10/8.1/8/7/VISTA/XP, Mac OS X 10.6 and Above] 2.5 Feet (CB-DB9P)
- Provides the connection between USB and the traditional RS-232 serial port
- Supported OS: Windows 2000/ME/98SE, Windows XP (32/64-bit), Windows Vista (32/64-bit), Windows 7 (32/64-bit), Windows 8/8.1 (32/64-bit), Windows 10 and higher (32/64-bit), Mac OS X 10.6 and Above, Linux 2.4 or above
- Easy to setup: Plug & Play - Simply plug your device into the adapter and the adapter into your PC or Mac.
- COM ports and Baud rates can be modified to desired set up.
- This product comes with LIFETIME manufacturer warranty.
Features:
Specs:
Color | White |
Height | 0.74 Inches |
Length | 7.36 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Release date | August 2016 |
Size | 2.5 FT |
Weight | 0.20062065842 Pounds |
Width | 5.16 Inches |
3. Cisco 72-3383-01 RJ-45 to DB-9 Rollover Console Cable, 6ft Long
- 72-3383-01
Features:
Specs:
Color | blue |
Height | 0.8 Inches |
Length | 5.3 Inches |
Weight | 0.01 Pounds |
Width | 4.2 Inches |
4. Celestron Nexstar RS 232 PC Interface Cable
Interface your NexStar telescope with your laptop or PCControl telescope by clicking on sky maps on computer monitorRS-232 jack on one end of cable, standard serial connector on otherCertain telescopes allow downloading new data into database62-inch length
Specs:
Height | 0.9 Inches |
Length | 5.7 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Release date | May 2015 |
Width | 4.9 Inches |
5. Hosa DBK-110 Synthesizer Controller Cable, 8-pin Mini-DIN to DE9, 10 ft
- Connector: 8-pin mini-din to DE9
- Length: 10 ft
- Synthesizer controller cable: 8-pin mini-din to DE9
Features:
Specs:
Height | 0 Inches |
Length | 0 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Release date | July 2017 |
Weight | 0.2 Pounds |
Width | 0 Inches |
6. StarTech.com 6 ft Straight Through Serial Cable - DB9 F/F - Serial cable - DB-9 (F) to DB-9 (F) - 6 ft - MXT100FF
DB9 F/FSerial cableDB-9 (F) to DB-9 (F)6 ftfor StarTech.com 1
Specs:
Color | Gray - F/F |
Height | 8.54 inches |
Length | 4.69 inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Release date | March 2020 |
Size | 6 ft / 2m |
Weight | 0.2425084882 pounds |
Width | 0.32 inches |
7. BitFenix Alchemy Multisleeve 45cm 8-Pin EPS Extension Cable - Red Sleeve/Black Connector (BFA-MSC-8EPS45RK-RP)
Premium Ultra-Dense WeaveMulti-Sleeved ConstructionHigh Quality Cable AssemblyPrecision Molded ConnectorsConnector Type: 8Pin EPS Male Connector, 8Pin EPS Female ConnectorCable Length: 45.0 cm
Specs:
Color | red |
Height | 1 Inches |
Length | 9.5 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Weight | 0.02 Pounds |
Width | 2.5 Inches |
8. CableMod Basic Cable Extension Kit - 8+6 Pin Series (Black/Red)
Read product description for list of contentsModFlex sleeving for vivid color and supreme flexibilityBring a professionally sleeved look to your system100% heatshrink-free for a clean and professional lookCableMod Cable Combs as a special bonus!
Specs:
Color | Black-Red |
Height | 0.39 Inches |
Length | 7.09 Inches |
Weight | 0.4 Pounds |
Width | 5.28 Inches |
9. BitFenix Alchemy Multisleeve 45cm 6-Pin PCI-E Extension Cable - Red Sleeve/Black Connector (BFA-MSC-6PEG45RK-RP)
Premium Ultra-Dense WeaveMulti-Sleeved ConstructionHigh Quality Cable AssemblyPrecision Molded ConnectorsConnector Type: 6Pin PCI-Express Male Connector, 6Pin PCI-Express Female ConnectorCable Length: 45.0 cm
Specs:
Color | red |
Height | 1 Inches |
Length | 9.5 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Weight | 0.1 Pounds |
Width | 2.5 Inches |
10. BitFenix Alchemy Multisleeve 45cm 8-Pin EPS Extension Cable - Black Sleeve/Black Connector (BFA-MSC-8EPS45KK-RP)
Premium Ultra-Dense WeaveMulti-Sleeved ConstructionHigh Quality Cable AssemblyPrecision Molded ConnectorsConnector Type: 8Pin EPS Male Connector, 8Pin EPS Female ConnectorCable Length: 45.0 cm
Specs:
Color | black |
Height | 1 Inches |
Length | 9.5 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Weight | 0.5 Pounds |
Width | 2.5 Inches |
11. Amphenol CS-DSDHD15MF0-010 15-Pin HD15 Deluxe D-Sub Cable, Shielded, Male/Female, 10', Gray
15-Pin (HD15) Deluxe High-Density D-Sub Cable Assembly by AmphenolConnectors: HD15 male to HD15 female D-Sub connectors pre-installedCable: 26 AWG UL listed with copper tape + aluminum Mylar shieldsStraight-through wiring (i.e. pin 1 to pin 1) design per industry standards
Specs:
Color | grey |
Height | 0.1 Inches |
Length | 10.3 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Weight | 0.01 Pounds |
Width | 9 Inches |
12. Amphenol CS-DSDHD15MF0-005 15-Pin HD15 Deluxe D-Sub Cable, Shielded, Male/Female, 5', Gray
15-Pin (HD15) Deluxe High-Density D-Sub Cable Assembly by AmphenolConnectors: HD15 male to HD15 female D-Sub connectors pre-installedCable: 26 AWG UL listed with copper tape + aluminum Mylar shieldsStraight-through wiring (i.e. pin 1 to pin 1) design per industry standards
Specs:
Color | grey |
Height | 1.2 Inches |
Length | 5 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Weight | 0.01 Pounds |
Width | 3.2 Inches |
13. BitFenix Alchemy Multisleeve 45cm 6-Pin PCI-E Extension Cable - Green Sleeve/Black Connector (BFA-MSC-6PEG45GK-RP)
Premium Ultra-Dense WeaveMulti-Sleeved ConstructionHigh Quality Cable AssemblyPrecision Molded ConnectorsConnector Type: 6Pin PCI-Express Male Connector, 6Pin PCI-Express Female ConnectorCable Length: 45.0 cm
Specs:
Color | black |
Height | 1 Inches |
Length | 9.5 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Weight | 0.02 Pounds |
Width | 2.5 Inches |
14. CableMod Basic Cable Extension Kit - 8+6 Pin Series (Black/White)
Read product description for list of contentsModFlex sleeving for vivid color and supreme flexibilityBring a professionally sleeved look to your system100% heatshrink-free for a clean and professional lookCableMod Cable Combs as a special bonus!
Specs:
Color | Black-White |
Height | 0.9 Inches |
Length | 9.75 Inches |
Weight | 0.55 Pounds |
Width | 6.5 Inches |
15. uxcell PC Computer Cooler Cooling Fan 3 Pins Extension Cable 5 Pcs Yellow Red
Product Name : PC Fan Extension Cable;Plug Type : 3 Pin Male to FemaleMain Material : Plastic;Main Color : White, Red, Black, YellowTotal Length : 23cm / 9"Net Weight : 14gPackage Contain : 5 x PC Fan Extension Cables
Specs:
Color | red |
Weight | 0.03086471668 Pounds |
16. 4 Pack - PCI-E 16x to 1x Power Riser Adapter Card with 6 Pin Power Connector GPU Riser 60 cm(24 in) USB 3.0 Extender Cable - Mining Dedicated Graphics Card Extension Cable (4 Pack)
- 4 Pack---60 cm(24 in ) usb 3.0 cable
- Fixable board with 4 holes available on PCI-E 16X side to fix PCI-E 16X connector on motherboard for more convenient management for graphics card.
- With SATA 15pin Male to 6 pin power cable for direct connection to your power supply reduces the power burden on your motherboard and ensures maximum compatibility with your power supply.
- USB 3.0 cable available to connect PCI-E 1X and PCI-E 16X sides for more free installation and faster data transfer for graphics card.
- Board has 4 FP solid capacitors Make Safe When doing Bitcoin
Features:
Specs:
Height | 0.5 Inches |
Length | 7 Inches |
Size | 4 Pack |
Width | 5.5 Inches |
17. PCCables.com 6ft DB9 Female to Mini Din 8-pin Male
- Mini Din 8 Male
- Serial Interface
- Serial Controller Cable
Features:
Specs:
Color | GRAY |
18. Cable Matters USB to Serial Adapter Cable (USB to RS232, USB to DB9) 3 Feet
- USB to RS232 adapter cable connects from the USB-A port of a computer to a device with a female DB9 port; Bus-powered Serial to USB adapter connects to devices for configuration or programming
- Male to male serial to USB cable provides a convenient solution for communicating with equipment that require a DB9 connector; Use a DB9 mini gender changer (sold separately) if the connector of the RS232 to USB adapter will not mate with the equipment port
- Simple installation of the USB Serial adapter using the drivers available for download from Cable Matters; Connect a null modem adapter (sold separately) to directly connect two computers with serial cables
- Windows & Mac compatible USB to Serial cable for Windows 2000/XP/Vista/7/8/10 and MacOS 10.6 and above; The 9 pin to USB adapter may require additional proprietary software some equipment models
- RS-232 compatible db9 to USB adapter is required for many types of equipment including a CNC Machine, GPS, telescope, Set-top box, Cisco network switch, sewing Machine and more
Features:
Specs:
Height | 0.31 Inches |
Length | 3.54 Inches |
Size | 3 Feet |
Weight | 0.09 Pounds |
Width | 2.76 Inches |
19. PCI-E Extension Cable pci Extension Cable 16x pcie Riser (pcie Extender 90 Degree 20cm)pcie Riser Cable
- The length of this product can be customized to support OEM
- High Quality Solder Point and Gold plated terminal for the best conductivity and Long use life
- Extremely High speed cable allow PCI express VGA card to install in any direction on suitable position
- Foiled cable for High-frequency impedance and EMI design/ Golden plated contacts for best connectivity and long life
- Compatible with most VGA/motherboard components
Features:
Specs:
Size | 20cm |
🎓 Reddit experts on serial cables
The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where serial cables are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
CPU | Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor | $179.99 @ Micro Center
CPU Cooler| RAIJINTEK TRITON| $99.00 @ Newegg
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-Z97X-SLI ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | $109.99 @ Microcenter
Memory | A-Data XPG V1.0 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $59.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Crucial MX100 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $109.99 @ Micro Center
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $101.46 @ OutletPC
Video Card | Gigabyte GeForce GTX 970 4GB WINDFORCE 3X Video Card | $329.99 @ Newegg
Case | Phanteks Enthoo Pro ATX Full Tower Case | $99.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | EVGA 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $83.49 @ NCIX US
Case Fan | BitFenix Spectre 47.4 CFM 200mm Fan | $12.99 @ SuperBiiz
Case Fan | be quiet! Pure Wings 2 61.2 CFM 140mm Fan | $11.90 @ Newegg
Case Fan | be quiet! SilentWings 2 50.5 CFM 120mm Fan | $20.90 @ Newegg
Case Fan | be quiet! SilentWings 2 50.5 CFM 120mm Fan | $20.90 @ Newegg
Lightning| Logisys 12" White LED | $14.00 @ Microcenter
Cables| Bitfenix Alchemy Multisleeve Red: 24PIN PWR| $12.00 @ FrozenCPU
Cables| Bitfenix Alchemy Multisleeve Red: 6PIN PCI-E| $9.00 @ FrozenCPU
Cables| Bitfenix Alchemy Multisleeve Red: 8PIN PCI-E| $11.00 @ Amazon
Cables| Bitfenix Alchemy Multisleeve Red: 8PIN EPS| $10.00 @ Amazon
Cables| Delux Sata cables RED| $5.00 @ Microcenter
Furniture| Ikea wall shelf| $23.00 @ Ikea
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | $1324.58
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-12-16 10:16 EST-0500 |
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My rationale for the chosen products:
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CPU: Intel quad-core clocked at 3,5GHz with a boost up to 3,9GHz. It's unlocked as well so overclocking is possible. This is enough for all modern games even at stock speeds, but you will see some performance increase in certain games.
CPU Cooler: Well I highly suggest this cooler, when I want a badass looking PC. As it got clear tubing wich make you able to fill the loop with any colour you like. You get red with it. Here is how it looks. It's expandable as well so you could later buy a waterblock and tubing, liquid for your GPU and watercool that as well. How-ever I would suggest to get an extra radiator as well. It as well performs very well. It beats the H100i wich is a very populair AIO. Sadly I can't seem to find the only english review I found about this CPU cooler as of yet.
Motherboard: Went for a Gigabyte Z97 "gaming" edition board. The gaming actually makes sense now. It got improved on-board audio with a seperate PCB for the high quality audio components. Wich does reduce the interference, this improves the clearance of the sound. It as well got a killer NIC. This is a network chip that prioritise games and streams over other random internet stuff, resulting in a slighly better latency (ping) and stable connection. Lastly it as well features SLI. This is an option to add a 2nd graphics card later, note that you want the exact same one. Nvidia is very strickt with this.
Memory: RAM is RAM. The only thing that really matters is capacity. 8GB is enough for gaming. So I went with a 2x4GB, 1600MHz, CL9 kit from A-Data. This as well leaves the option to upgrade to 16GB later if you need it.
Storage: 256GB SSD & 3TB HDD. This is a lot of storage and should be enough for a while. You can always add more later if need be. Here is a very detailed review of this SSD. You can skip to the "conclusion" if you don't want to bother with the all the details. Spoiler: 9,8/10. The 3TB HDD is just from a reputable brand, almost most drives perform roughly the same, so it doesn't matter to much wich one you get.
Video Card: This is the beauty of the system. Maxwell is the latest architecture that got some great features. the GTX970 got this architecture and is one of the best value/performance for high end cards. Here is a great review that talks about the features that Maxwell got. I know it's the GTX980 but the 970 got all these features as well. Here is a great review of the card that I suggested. The card is very silent wich is nice. I as well went for this card because of the looks. It's a nice black design and got a white LED in it.
Case: I went for my favourite case. The Phanteks Enthoo Pro, it is awesome, it's very easy to work in. Here is a great review. Note: the PSU cover is now attached with thumb screws, wich is a little bit easier. It is aimed towards watercooling, so our AIO will fit without a problem. I worked in this case myself and it's amazing. Had no problems at all and it looks very clean.
Case fans: The stock fans are "fine" but they do get slightly on the louder side once they start to spin up. So I decided to replace them. The Bitfenix Spectre 200mm in the front. The Be Quiet Pure in the rear (both places the stock fans come pre-mounted). Then the 2 Be Quiet SilentWings for the AIO. This won't be a big difference as far as I can tell. But this will look better as these fans are completely black.
Case Light: It's understandable that you want "red" as your lights. But this is in my opinion a big mistake when you allready have a lot of red in your system. This will kill the whole red theme as it makes everything blurred out. So that's why I suggest a white LED strip instead. This will make the red colours pop out and will make it look awesome. Here is my build. This picture was taken during the day with a lot of light in my room, so the white LED strips don't really make themself visable. But if I would use a soft yellow or whatever colour aside from white. The colours wouldn't pop out as nice.
Power Supply: 10 year warrenty, 80+ gold, fully-modular black sleeved cables, 750W PSU from EVGA. 750W is way overkill for this system, that will pull around 300-350W at most. This means plenty of room for an SLI configuration. Here is a review from in my mind the best PSU reviewer. Spoiler: 9,8/10. There is only 1 PSU so far that got a 10. So this is very impressive.
Cables: I went for RED extension cables and 2 SATA cables. This is not really needed, but just looks awesome. It are extension cables, so all you have to do is plug them on the end of the cables of the PSU - then towards the unit. So PSU > PSU Cable > Extension cable > Unit.
Furniture: Hah! Yeah, you need this! When you get a nice looking PC. It's awesome to be able to see it, rather then having it sit on the floor. It as well is better against dust to have it off the floor. You can of course look for your own shelf and I don't know if this will even fit on your wall. But hey, there are other options. Just make sure that it can handle the weight. Wich will be around 20kg / 44lbs and that it is big enough. 30cm by 70cm is possible.
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##Hope you like it and If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask.
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It's not a bad setup, but we might be able to tweak it a little. A few things I see:
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To balance all this out in a refresh of your build, I have a few questions to fine tune it.
----------
Before the fine tuning, here's a more general recommendation for around $1100:
CPU | Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor | $317.27 @ TigerDirect
CPU Cooler | Cooler Master Seidon 240M 86.2 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler | $69.99 @ Newegg
Motherboard | *Gigabyte GA-Z97MX-Gaming 5 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | $115.97 @ OutletPC
Memory | *Mushkin Stealth 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $65.99 @ Newegg
Storage | *Kingston SSDNow V300 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $58.99 @ NCIX US
Storage | *Western Digital Caviar Green 1TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive | $49.50 @ Newegg
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB Video Card | $329.98 @ NCIX US
Case | Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mid Tower Case | $44.99 @ Mwave
Power Supply | EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $49.99 @ NCIX US
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | $1102.67
| *Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria |
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-10-06 16:33 EDT-0400 |
---------------------
###For a little more you can bump up from budget parts to get a more premium setup with a full Red/Black Theme and software adjustable liquid cooler/fans:
CPU | Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor | $317.27 @ TigerDirect
CPU Cooler | NZXT Kraken X61 106.1 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler | $122.99 @ SuperBiiz
Motherboard | ASRock Fatal1ty Z97X Killer ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | $119.99 @ Micro Center
Memory | Avexir Core Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $79.99 @ NCIX US
Storage | *Kingston SSDNow V300 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $58.99 @ NCIX US
Storage | *Western Digital Caviar Green 1TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive | $49.50 @ Newegg
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB Video Card | $329.98 @ NCIX US
Case | NZXT S340 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case | $69.98 @ Amazon
Power Supply | EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $49.99 @ NCIX US
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | $1200
|
|
Optional | Finishing touches to give a full Custom build look
Sleeved Cable| EPS 8-Pin Extension Cable - Red Sleeve| $10.00
Sleeved Cable| ATX 24-Pin Extension Cable - Red Sleeve| $15.00
Sleeved Cable| PCI-E 6-Pin Extension Cable - Red Sleeve| $10.00
Sleeved Cable| PCI-E 6-Pin Extension Cable - Red Sleeve| $10.00
LED Lighting| NZXT Adjustable LED Light strip. (Red)| $15.00
| | Optional Parts
| | $60
No, RS232 and USB are completely different. RS232 transcievers can be connected to a computer using USB, but the USB protocol is its own thing.
The Arduino actually has a serial port in that other Atmel chip mounted near that USB connector. The other Atmel chip is a USB enpoint that presents itsself to the computer as a USB-connected serial port. This is then used to talk to the actual Arduino micro that you're programming when you upload your program, and is used when you're running the Serial library on the Arduino.
Referring to this schematic, the Atmel USB-connected micro that acts as a serial port is U3, and the actual Ardino-programmed micro is ZU4.
The serial port is carried across RN4A and RN4B, right at the bottom of the schematic. You can talk to the Arduino by grabbing hold of the serial port at the pins labeled 0 and 1 of the IOL connector.
Now, to be clear: this is a serial port but it is not RS232. This is what's called a TTL-level or Logic-level serial port. There are USB-connected serial ports that you can buy for either of those things. Here's a tutorial on the difference.
So you can buy a logic-level serial port like this one and plug it right into the pins (the TX and RX pin on the port I mentioned above, and the ground pin) and after you get the Baud rate correct, you should be able to use this to communicate with the Arduino instead of the normal on-board USB connected serial port.
Then you should be able to extend the wires. However, this TTL level serial signal is not as robust as the RS-232 carried serial signal.
To use the real RS-232 serial signal, you'd need to buy an RS-232 type USB-connected serial port (if your computer doesn't have one already, this is the protocol that's almost always carried on a 9-pin D-style connector). Then you'd need a transciever for the Arduino. This tranceiver shield looks easy to use. This would work with a USB serial adapter such as this one.
So either one of those, if operated at a low bit rate such as 9600 baud or even slower, should go over quite a long cable. I feel like the RS-232 serial adapter may go over a longer haul, but honestly it's quite possible that the TTL adapter would be just as good. And that way you don't have to put a shield on the Arduino, which is nice.
FYI if you chose to use the RS-232 signalling scheme, you only need three of those nine wires: TX, RX, and ground. You don't actually need to use the DB-9 connector and the 9-wire cable to get it to work. All the other stuff isn't actually used on the bare-bones serial link that we want to set up here.
My list for mobile/portable operating would look something like this...
For a man portable setup I could carry in a pack, the highest capacity LiFePO4 battery I could afford.
Otherwise, if I'm driving out to a fixed operating site, then the biggest AGM deep cycle battery I would care to lug from the car a short distance to the operating site.
A lightweight computer with good battery life so I don't have to worry about external power for it out in the field. I'm not really a Mac guy, but I'd probably bring my Macbook Pro for this task.
The TS-480 doesn't require a Signalink/Rigblaster type interface for digital operation, but you will need the following items to interface to your computer...
The filters aren't truly necessary and the unit is pretty frequency stable without the TCXO, but they sure are nice to have. If you were going to put a filter in it, I would recommend the 500Hz CW filter. It comes in handy when you're trying to zero in on a particular signal or block adjacent strong signals. The DSP filtering is generally adequate, but a strong enough signal is going to swamp the AGC and that's when the crystal filters come in handy to notch that out.
If you do get the TCXO, don't waste $110 on the Kenwood SO-3. The cheap Chinese TCXO's work just as well and can be had for much cheaper. I got mine from ebay for 20 bucks or so, but now you can even get them on Amazon with Prime shipping and everything.
Antenna choice is highly variable. Out here in the deserts of New Mexico, you don't find much in the way of trees, so a wire antenna deployed up into a tree is out and a self supporting vertical is in. I generally pack an MFJ 1979 telescoping vertical whip with a clamping antenna mount or a collapsable fiberglass pole that I can hoist up a length of wire with. Your own situation, available terrain, bands you want to work are going to be the determining factors here.
This page has some useful notice on power draw of the TS-480 with some operating scenarios and battery sizing options. A lightweight, power sipping QRP rig the TS-480 is not, but it's still very usable for portable operations.
Here's an updated guide that's more user-friendly than what I've written in the past. This is a slightly involved process, and I spend about an hour before leaving for BRC configuring the GPS, and 2 hours after the burn downloading the tracks and stitching everything together in Photoshop. This is my 4th year doing this.
Note: I've only been able to do this via Windows. There may be ways via Mac or Linux, but I've not been able to figure them out yet.
Step 1: get a GPS unit that can autolog your tracks. I use a Garmin eTrex Legend. Find it used online for less than $50. It's very durable due to rubber gaskets on all buttons which prevents dust issues. Long-life with 2xAA removable batteries last 2 days on average. Mine has lasted 4 burns with zero issues.
Step 2: turn on "Track Log: Auto" if using the Garmin eTrex Legend, and start walking/biking/flying around BRC! This is turned on by default on my unit, so do is a factory reset of your GPS if it's the eTrex Legend. When this GPS is on, it's tracking movement.
Step 3: after the burn, download your tracks to your PC. You need 2 cables (Garmin to serial port - Amazon, and Serial port to USB adapter - Amazon), and software from Garmin (MapSource - free from Garmin). The port on the GPS for the cable is on the top-rear under a rubber flap. Plug in the cables to your PC, turn on the GPS, and open MapSource. Click on "Transfer" in the menu, and download all tracks from the GPS. The tracks look like this - imgur in MapSource. To change the color of your tracks, on the left hand side double click on any track, and select the color you want it to be. I pick one color per day, and set it for all tracks on that day.
Step 4: screen shot and stitch the maps together in Photoshop. Start by zooming in on your tracks in MapSource. Take a screenshot, scroll a bit, take another screenshot, and repeat this process until you have 10-15 screenshots of portions of the map, like this example - imgur . Next, open all the screenshots in Photoshop and stitch them together. Next, open up google maps in a web browser and search for "Black Rock City". Zoom in, and take 10-15 screenshots of the entire city like this second example - imgur, stitching them together in Photoshop. Now you have a high-res version of your tracks, and a street map for BRC from Google Maps. Next, select just your tracks without the gray background by going to the menu "Select > Color Range" on your tracks image. Click on the gray area of the map thumbnail, set the fuzziness to 32, and hit "Ok". Then go into the menu "Select > Inverse" to select just your tracks. Copy this (Edit > Copy), go to your stitched together image from Google Maps, and paste your tracks over it (Edit > Paste). Then, using the Edit > Transform > Scale tool, resize the tracks until they fit exactly with the Google Maps image.
(optional recommended step): Before leaving for the playa, load your Garmin with the GPS map for BRC that comes out a week before the event from http://www.wkeller.net/BRC-GPS/ . William Keller does a fantastic job of putting these maps together, and it makes the GPS unit useful on playa, particularly during dust storms. It has waypoints for all potties, health services locations, roads, etc. Load this into the Garmin eTrex Legend using Sendmap. To do this, first plug in your GPS, then open MapSource to determine which Com Port your GPS is connected to when plugged into your PC. Open SendMap and select the Com Port you saw in MapSource and set the speed to 9600, and the rest is easy to follow using Mr Keller's instructions from http://www.wkeller.net/BRC-GPS/
Believe it or not, the 2509 is actually cheaper than the module you're looking for.
The module that would support what you want to do is an HWIC-8A. On eBay, they range anywhere from $250-$1k. Not only that, but you would need a compatible router (basically, an 1841, 1941, or any 2800/2900/3800/3900 series ISR) as well as the appropriate cabling (CAB-HD8-ASYNC, about $20-$40 on eBay).
You might be able to use a smaller module (like an HWIC-4A/S or an HWIC-4T), but the wiring is going to be a pain (meaning, you're going to effectively be making your own cables using serial-to-RJ45 pinout adapters, then using rollover cables to connect to your devices) and the cost isn't much better than going with an HWIC-8A or 8A/S.
Why so expensive, you ask? Well, think of it from a business perspective. You're the netadmin for a medium-sized business, and after a network outage that cost the company $100K+ that was prolonged partially because you needed to drive 45 minutes to the datacenter to console into your core switch/router, you need an out-of-band management solution. The HWIC-8A/S is in pretty high demand because they allow any old ISR to suddenly be used as an access server. Furthermore, I believe it has two ports for a total of 16 connections. Throw four of those babies in your old 3825, and you have 64 individual connections you can console into. That means a single terminal server will allow you to console into the top-of-rack switches across your entire datacenter. Let's assume you want some redundancy, so you get a second terminal server to plug into the Aux ports of your network devices - you've solved a $100K+ problem for less than $1k in equipment costs.
You might be able to come up with a homebrewed solution using a physical Linux server and some USB-to-serial connectors, as described in this blogpost. However, if you need thirteen devices to have console access, and USB-to-serial converters are $10 a pop, and rollover cables are $5 a piece (maybe more, maybe less), you're getting close to access server-levels of cost anyway. So, might as well go for the "proper" solution and save yourself potential hassle in the future.
In reality, you don't need most of it anymore. Serial port? Small USB-to-serial adapter, job done. Optical drive? Basically never need one, when you combine stuff like server iDRAC and IPMI with remote management, and OS installs can be done off USB sticks.
The one thing I do wish my Surface Pro had is an Ethernet port, but I've managed to work around that also (usb3 to gigabit adapter).
Battery life? Well, a HP Spectre X360 15 inch - what may well be the best laptop of 2016 in my book - will have all-day battery life, and 4 USB ports (one USB-C, 3 A), plus HDMI and DisplayPort.
Arguably, a 15 inch slim ultrabook like that and a serial port adapter and USB3 bluray will still be less to haul than some ugly old brick. And if you find yourself standing in a data center needing to operate it one handed, it flips into tablet mode with a touch screen.
https://www.amazon.com/VicTsing%C2%AE-playback-Blu-ray-External-desktops/dp/B014OSZF4Y
https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Converter-Prolific-Chipset-TU-S9/dp/B0007T27H8
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00BBD7NFU - or better yet this, if you want more USB3 ports also: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B01J6583NK
But, in answer to your actual question, no, I'm not aware of an old school brick with tons of ports that's worth buying. A few accessories you can keep in the bag until you need them makes more sense anyway - in my opinion.
Well, unless you go to rugged or semi-rugged designs. They have to be so bulky anyway that they toss in a ton of ports.
http://en.getac.com/notebooks/S410/features.html perhaps or machines of that style.
Dell also makes semi-rugged. Panasonic Toughbook etc. But all these rugged models cost a premium. Then again, if you get stuck in a snowdrift, you can use them as shovels, so... :)
Or else, you can go all out! :) http://en.getac.com/notebooks/X500-Server/features.html
First I would say to try to have the cables go straight across to their connectors, like instead of having the sata cables going diagonal, this will help give it a better look. Secondly I would recommend checking out something like a cablemod kit to make the cables the same color, so that the cable you do see looks nicer
They can be picked up fairly cheap:
CableMod Basic Cable Extension Kit - 8+6 Pin Series (Black/White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6F4WTA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_PSbZDbJ4HQ83R
I would also ditch the red sata cable and go with black or white to fit your theme:
Cable Matters 3-Pack 90 Degree Right Angle SATA III 6.0 Gbps SATA Cable (SATA 3 Cable) Black - 18 Inches https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018Y2LEBE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_GVbZDbEM0D6K7
Edit: I would also say try to neatly bundle all those cables going to the bottom right of the motherboard with velcro or zip ties and try to tuck them along the edge so you have one neat run.
Ps. Nice build!!
Great to see an RCX/Scout fan! In case you're installing Win98 for Mindstorms use, I've had great success running the old software in a Windows XP virtual machine using VirtualBox. The benefit is that you can then use your old Mindstorms even with modern computers and laptops.
In fact, I recently found out you can even get the Robotics Invention System 2.0 running on straight 64-bit Windows 10, if you use a cheap USB to Serial Converter and the old serial IR tower.
A car adapter? Mine came with one. As for the power supply id recommend this
Here is what i bought to track with it.
PC interface Cable
Serial Adapter
And finally this, but this is optional to you. Youll probably eventually want to image from your backyard, and if you do youll want this. AC Adapter
Another thing, Unluckily for me and for you, the mount does not come with a polar scope. Do some research to what kind you want, but I got this one
Other than that, Good luck! If you ever want some real time advice come check out the chat room under the useful links tab on the side of the subreddit! Chances are I'll be there, or one of the AP gurus.
Yes! I knew it. I'm excited that I can actually help out someone on this.
I have fucking fantastic news for you. I too struggled and struggled to find a way to extend these both, and I'm happy to tell you I found both extension cords and I can tell you they work perfectly and they are dirt cheap.
The "VGA-style" connector is
actually a serialalso known as a D-Sub 15-pin connector, and this exact one will let you extend it for just $14: https://www.amazon.com/Amphenol-CS-DSDHD15MF0-005-15-Pin-Deluxe-Shielded/dp/B00O072K4I/. Look at the reviews for confirmation that it works with our Z623s.I own this exact cable and it works great. No audio quality loss, no latency, nothing. If 5 feet isn't enough for you, it comes in 10 feet: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O072KD4/.
Again, no loss in quality. That's for the right speaker (with the control knobs). For the left speaker that you're referring to as an "aux" connection, it's called an RCA connector. I use this series here ($8.49 or less for your needs): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RXNVI62/
Any of those will work just fine.
I have two sets of Z623s, one set on my desk and one downstairs with a Chromecast audio for kitchen/living room music. Downstairs, I've extended my right speaker by 13 feet total and my left speaker by 5 feet, to cover the whole area.
As long as you love this speaker set, your issue is super easy to fix. Let me know if you end up trying them!
CPU | Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor | $212.99 @ NCIX US
CPU Cooler | Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler | $30.99 @ SuperBiiz
Motherboard | MSI Z97-GAMING 5 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | $146.99 @ Amazon
Memory | Mushkin Redline 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory | $63.98 @ Newegg
Storage | Crucial MX100 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $104.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $49.99 @ SuperBiiz
Video Card | MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card | $345.99 @ B&H
Case | NZXT S340 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case | $64.99 @ Micro Center
Power Supply | SeaSonic 620W 80+ Bronze Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $54.99 @ Amazon
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit) | $97.99 @ SuperBiiz
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | $1173.89
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-12-31 08:26 EST-0500 |
That's $1158 if you want to use rebates.
Better motherboard, faster RAM and in dual channel, better graphic card, case with window. Black/Red theme all around. Not mATX and no optical drive though.
I bought this telescope too on Prime Day. I'm also researching what accessories are recommended. So here's something I didn't know. The GOTO computer thingy runs on 8 AA batteries. If your moving around a lot, the batteries get toasted pretty quickly. Turns out we can get a rechargeable lithium ion battery pack for about $30.00.
There's also the option AC adapter for about $20.00. Celestron sells a "Power Tank" power source, but that doesn't seem like such a good purchase.
If you need to update the software on the GOTO system, apparently Celestron didn't include the needed cable. That's another $14.00. But the thing is, that cable is an ancient 9 pin interface, and isn't compatible with a lot of laptops. You may also need an adapter for another $14.00. Or you can opt for the Wifi adapter for $90.00.
To set the computer up, you need to manually enter a lot of data about your location. Once you power down, the data is lost. Celestron has this GPS device which seems to have pretty good reviews.
That's a lot of accessories. Not sure what exactly I've gotten myself into. I just wanted to stargaze. lol
The least expensive goto system you're going to find will probably be the Celestron LCM family. You can get these for around $150 for a 60mm refactor, and goes up to $250 for a 110mm reflector.
Any of these can be connected to a computer (using an adapter cable plus a USB to Serial cable), but the Nexstar hand paddle by itself will do the job of identifying what you're looking at.
Of course, these guys don't have nearly the light-gathering power of larger Orion telescopes, so you'll need to go someplace with a dark sky to see more than the moon, the planets, and some brighter star clusters... but on the bright side, you'll be able to find all that stuff right away!
You should be soldering the LEDs onto a male header and using that as it's the correct thickness to grip and conduct reliably.
Just because the LEDs fit and work doesn't mean it's a necessarily good idea to use it like that.
Alternatively if you can use something that isn't soldered down to a board, I've seen quite a few devices make use of the same molex connectors used on fans.
http://www.amazon.com/Male-Female-Extension-Power-Cable/dp/B007Q01I5I/ref=sr_1_7?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1421915437&sr=1-7&keywords=3+Pin+Female+fan
The female connectors have a fairly good retention force to their spring so you might even have some extras around to try your luck with.
> And I’d like to learn about satellites and especially space internet connection
What I'd recommend doing is simply dig into learning about general serial data transmission protocols and about the OSI network model. If you can learn about the gritty details of TCP/IP and how to make your own digital data packets, it would go a long way to really understand how to use this technology.
If you want to experiment, there are several wireless serial data transceivers that you can use for some custom packet experiments at relatively low cost. Basically, you open a raw serial data port and then send your data through the wireless links. Note that I'm not recommending this particular supplier, just using it as an example of the kind of products you can access to play with this technology if you really want to get some direct "hands on" experience.
Mind you, working with raw RS-232 serial data is really in this case mostly for experimenting and learning about how to get it done rather than trying to make a ground breaking application and really pushing the technology where you might want to get into USB specs and other digital transmission protocols. If you learn at this level though, you can write your own ticket when it comes to getting employers noticing you.
If you have newer computers without a raw DB-9 RS-232 serial data connector, you can also buy some comparatively inexpensive USB converters and experiment with building your own network between several computers using just raw data connections and building a network from the hardware on up.
If you really master all of this and can get TCP/IP packets flowing through these connections, you will be set to be hacking the Starlink ground station as soon as it comes out for people outside of SpaceX. By hacking, I mean somebody who is really using the full power of the network and making applications beyond the casual default software that would be standard.
I really hope that SpaceX will permit us to get into that lower network level of packet operations without having to go into black hat hacking. It would make developing personal cubesats and other really fun satellite operations possible.
Here are some links for ya:
6 pack of risers, in stock, with free Amazon prime two day shipping or $8 saturday delivery - $11 each
4 pack of risers, with Amazon prime shipping, in stock on 7/4 - $9.50 each
4 pack of risers, Amazon prime shipping, in stock on 7/5 - $10 each
6 pack of risers, in stock, free Amazon prime shipping or $8 saturday delivery $11 each
This worked for me on an Orion Sirius/HEQ5:
RS232 male to USB: https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Converter-Prolific-Chipset-TU-S9/dp/B0007T27H8/
This cable goes from synscan controller to the RS232 male: https://www.amazon.com/Celestron-Nexstar-232-Interface-Cable/dp/B0000665UZ
So you plug the trendnet RS232 male to USB into your laptop or PC, install the driver, plug the Celestron RS232 cable RJ11 bit into your synscan controller, then connect the trendnet RS232 male to the Celestron RS232 female. Viola! For me, the RJ11 bit was incredulously easy to become dislodged from the controller even if the RJ11 was clipped in properly. Even if you pulled the cable out just a centimeter, the connection between the mount and PC would be dropped. I solved it by shoving the RJ11 in as far as I could then taping it in place. Of course, YMMV, but I was on the brink of just getting an eqdirect cable until I figured it out.
Hope it helps!
Yeap. that's all I use with mine. If you're running windows, you just have to make sure you have the drivers, and check which COM port it registered as in Device Manager. Putty is free and works great.
https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Serial-Adapter-U209-000-R/dp/B00005V52C/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1505512809&sr=8-5&keywords=usb+serial
https://www.amazon.com/Cisco-72-3383-01-Rollover-Console-Female/dp/B005S2KPPU/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1505512856&sr=8-7&keywords=rj45+db9
If your computers are 5yrs old or less, odds are they do not have a serial port.
You can get a USB to serial converter for less than six bucks and make your own converter if you know the pin out for the JV. This looks like the Roland side connector. Most of the converters state they do not work with Win8. The RSC-15APL looks like a DIN8 male to male, the 15AT looks like DIN8 male to DB-9 male connectors. Here's one, you'd just need a male to female serial adapter.
Maybe it would be worth dedicating an older unused machine with an earlier OS and serial port? If not, it's still worth trying one of the USB converters going to the cable last linked.
Someone please correct me if I'm way off base here.
TL:DR; Press
<RETURN>
after IN#2; you should see IMMEDIATE input on the //c. You CAN use lower-case. You may need to select File > Serial Config > Apple //c ImageWriter Cable option. Try a different USB-DB9 cable if after #Troubleshooting (below) doesn't work.---
AppleWin developer here -- I just went through this exact same issue this week having recently moved and started unboxing my Apple 2 Lab these past few weeks. Sadly I didn't pay attention to the exact ADTPro setup I had before so I was forced to start over from scratch. In the end this actually worked out since I never documented what I did before so here is an opportunity for me to do this now -- and you get the benefit. :-)
Requirements
Caveats
NOT all USB-DB9 serial cables work!!! Of the three I have only this one works:
These ones do NOT work:
/Applicatons/Keyspan Serial Assistant.
You need to install the kernel driver and reboot OSX (macOS). HOWEVER, every time I plug it in the mouse and OS freeze. You are forced to hold down the power button reboot. :-/I'm not sure if the serial cable being a null modem is a factor or not.
Solution
2 <phone icon>
engraved above the serial port.File
>Serial Configuration
. For me it was/dev/tty/usbserial.DN000MLG4
but this will vary depending on which brand/model you have. Check your manual for details. Also, I have:[x] Apple //c w/ Imagewriter cable
<-- This was THE key for me.Serial
button.Bootstrapping
>ProDOS
>Speediboot
RETURN
afterIN#2
:IN#2 <RETURN>
<Ctrl-A>14B
Ctrl-A
the cursor will change to a question mark?
. If you don't see this then the serial card is NOT active.B
the cursor will change back to the regular checkerboard glyph. You CAN press&lt;RETURN&gt;
after the B as well but it isn't needed like the first one after theIN#2
.OK
within ADTPro you should immediately see theCALL -151
and hex input on the Apple //c. If ADTPro sends the file (~30 seconds) but there is NO input on the Apple //c side then your connection is working. See the following Troubleshooting section.Troubleshooting
/dev
deviceModels
I have the following Apple //c models in my Apple Lab. I've tested two of them:
| Version | Works |
|:---|:---|
|255 (Original) | Yes |
| 0 (3.5 ROM IIc) | Yes |
| 5 (//c+) | ? (Haven't tested) |
NOTE: You can find which ROM version your //c is via:
? PEEK(64447)
Good luck!
Edit: Replaced //c+ pic with //c one.
"COM port" is a meaningless term that doesn't really tell us what you need.
I assume you need RS-232 serial connectivity, and that means you want either a DB-9 or a DB-25 interface.
I've had pretty good luck with this product, that uses the Prolific chip:
https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Converter-Installation-Universal-TU-S9/dp/B0007T27H8/
But I've also heard good things about the FTDI chip:
https://www.amazon.com/Tera-Grand-Premium-Serial-Adapter/dp/B0762BSKGC/
Now, those are assuming you needed a DB-9 connector, which is the most common.
If you need DB-25, we'll have to find some different recommendations.
Hey OP, probably the best place to start is by getting your self a console roll over cable, you can go for the USB type or Serial DB9 (Be sure to shop around, these are just ones I found with a quick search) Note rollover cables are different from any other standard networking cable, so be sure to watch for that.
Once you have your console cable, you'll need a console program like Tera Term and depending on which port and type you have the rollover cable plugged into your comp, you need to select it and the baud rate for the cisco switch, it should be 9600 bauds. Providing there's no hiccups, it will go through the boot up process, you can then hit enter and either the switch will prompt you with
>Continue with configuration dialog? [yes/no]
or
>Switch>
These are the prompt you want, if you get the yes/no select no. If you just get Switch> then its good to go, all port are by default up
The ones that are bad news are
>Switch:
This means there's no ios on the machine, and you will need to find a good copy some how, including buying a functioning switch and copying over the ios.
>Password:
This means the previous owner never wiped their configs off it.
If either is the case feel free to pm me for more assistance.
Yeah, all of the Kenwoods all work the same.. I hope you didn't spend a ton of money on a Kenwood cable.. This cable works perfectly:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000068OER/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
If you are familiar with linux, I'd recommend heyu. I've been using it and X10 for about the last 15 years or so, and it works great. I think at the beginning, I was using some other software, but I don't recall what it was.
Someone mentioned "phases" and yes, this can be a problem. However, the bigger problem for me at least is CFLs. They introduce so much noise on the line, that the X10 signals get lost in said noise. I use only incandescent and dimmable LEDs and it works great.
If you do need another serial port, just make sure you get one with RTS pin exposed, like this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007T27H8
I recently had great success managing a Cisco PIX firewall with this USB to Serial adapter from Trendnet. I used it from a Windows 8.1 VM and Bootcamp.
RJ-45 console cables are often propitiatory and different pins depending on the device :(
You'll need to use a USB -> Serial adapter then the proper cable that came with the device.
This is the model I use, it works good even on Windows 10: http://smile.amazon.com/Sabrent-Serial-RS-232-Converter-CB-DB9P/dp/B00IDSM6BW/
I do not recommend the IO Gear one. I haven't used it in years but unless they've done a much better job in recent years it was extremely buggy. It would often crash my terminal application. This is the one: http://smile.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Serial-RS-232-Adapter-GUC232A/dp/B000067VB7/
This one seems to have great reviews and some serial troubleshooting features: http://smile.amazon.com/GearMo-Adapter-Indicators-Windows-Support/dp/B00AHYJWWG/
It looks like this guy should do it:
https://smile.amazon.com/Express-PCIe3-0-Flexible-Extension-20cm-90/dp/B07FCYW982/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1550591034&amp;sr=8-7&amp;keywords=pcie+extension+cable
I may end up using a second power supply to run it. Which seems crazy, but the PC was free, the 1060 card was cheap, and this way I'll have a full gaming system for like $150.
If you have an adapter, you can pas the USB device to the VM with relative ease. The VM has full control of the device. Much in the same way that you would pass a USB flash drive, mouse, or keyboard.
The Serial Port that you are adding is only really for Host to Guest stuff like SPICE: https://pve.proxmox.com/wiki/Serial_Terminal
I think there is a way with editing the VM's
.conf
file. like addingargs: -serial /dev/ttyS0
or something like that, I could be wrong.USB us much easier to deal with and fairly inexpensive. Example
Yes I know, but for some reason I didn't think to screen shot as I was already taking pictures of the setup. As for the terminal stuff, I just use TotalTerminal so I can go in and out of it quickly. Then for the serial stuff I just use This combined with a script I made so I don't have to remember all the screen stuff and with the correct drivers, it works like a charm.
edit: Clarification
I was looking around and someone posted this cable along with this adapter and looking at the questions one was a nortel engineer that recommended it and said it works with their products. Ill give it a go when it all arrives. What program did you use to connect to the switch via console? Telnet? Screen? Putty? Thanks for the info about the gateway i wouldnt have known. Looks like im going to have to do a good amount of research when setting it up since i dont know much.
its not too bad, I have X550e I picked for $75.
You'll need this. http://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-TU-S9-USB-Serial-Converter/dp/B0007T27H8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1459299559&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=usb+to+serial
and this http://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-TU-S9-USB-Serial-Converter/dp/B0007T27H8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1459299559&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=usb+to+serial.
I'm not saying you "have" to buy these, but I used like 3 different serial cables and two different usb adapters. Until I got theses.
2.1 is easy 2.2 and 2.3 are a bit tricky they require you disable DNL if you use a CF card.
Ah, in that case, you need one of these or something like it: Female to Female DB9 cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00066HP2E
And one of these or something like it if you don't have a serial port on your laptop (you probably don't): USB to Serial adapter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00066HP2E
And you can use a program like Tera Term or PuTTY to talk to the switch through the adapter.
It's a good switch to play around with to learn Cisco command line, and you will want to, because it may not even function correctly depending on the previous configuration. You will want to pick up a USB to serial, and a Cisco Console cable to at least factory reset it.
>and a gaming PC with an asus z170 board I'd like to use as my console.
You don't access the console full-time. Usually you just use the console cable for:
Once the switch is set up, you just access it via its management IP over something like SSH.
>there is no way to connect a DB9 to RJ45 console cable to my board
I'm assuming your board has USB, and the switch comes with a console cable it looks like, so you can use either:
I use the latter. With an RJ45->DB9 adaptor, I'm able to connect to basically any switch, new or old.
> I just couldn't connect to the other ports. Do I have to activate them in some way or should they be active out of the box?
By default Eth0 has 192.168.1.1 and that is it. The other ports are lit but without an IP address.
> I held the reset button for 10 second while it was running (runtime reset because that's what the manual recommended).
That's not what the manual says to do to reset. They say: power down device, hold pin in, power on, keep holding it til Eth 1 (or maybe eth2 I forget) blinks orange, hold until that orange light dies out, then let go of pin.
> eBay would work?
Yea eBay should work just fine, Amazon too if you want to get this back up and running in a timely manner.
I got this one and it has worked for me, but there are loads out there even cheaper.
Yes if you buy the kit you need a machine with a serial connection or USB 2.0 to Serial converter plus a null modem serial cable.
Here is a basic how to
Edit: Fixed link thanks to /u/nick_danger
And amazon sells a 3.5mm to DB9 adapter cable. Excellent! ;)
check out the trendnet Tu-S9.. Never had a problem with em and they work great with Cisco Checkpoint and Foritnet devices.. https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-USB-RS-232-Serial-Converter/dp/B0007T27H8/
Update on that, problem solved. It was a simple as...reinstalling win7 and everything is working fine. It had something to do with my usb ports acting jankey for an unknown reason, it wouldn't even 'install' a flash drive, even through it's always worked before.
At any rate, being able to actually use the MCP-6A should speed things along.
BTW, using the Hosa synthesizer cable for programming (http://amzn.com/B000068OER), works perfectly.
This is what I used. Works like a charm. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HVBP65U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_E7INzbB7FGT02
Can confirm a cable like that would work. I use this one to connect my Mac SE to my modern machines. For software, I use Zterm which can be found here.
Haven't figured out file transfers yet, but I know Zterm has the option. If you can find someone capable of making an 800k disk for your plus you'll be set.
Use a regular console cable [RJ45 to DB9][1], coupled with a serial to USB [DB9 to USB][2].
The above is a better setup, and a bit more reliable than a straight up [RJ45 to USB][3] cable. (imo)
[1]:http://www.amazon.com/72-3383-01-Rollover-Console-Cable-Female/dp/B005S2KPPU "RJ45 to DB9"
[2]:http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Serial-RS-232-Converter-CB-DB9P/dp/B00IDSM6BW "DB9 to USB"
[3]:http://www.amazon.com/CISCO-Console-Cable-Replaces-72-3383-01/dp/B00I8CT8YG "RJ45 to USB"
Question for you, will this kit work for my GTX 1080 FTW?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MYY2CQQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_5lnVAbKB121GT
Or will I need to buy an extra 8 pin since my GPU is a 8 + 8?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077QR27ZC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_TtnVAbZY1XH7C
> guess would be that this is, in fact, a host port on the router. Both cables are active and the two sides ... are both peripherals
Interesting. You're speculating that the Cisco USB-USB cable is, in fact, the unholy marriage of a pair of these and one of these.
That's a strong theory, I like it. Well, like might be too strong of a word, but at least it tempers my horror a bit :)
> couldn't find the damn thing. Extended the outage
This. It's just stupid/awful.
Cheapest option I can find at the moment: Have it by Wednesday for $4 with free Amazon Prime shipping -- http://www.amazon.com/Generic-7-Cisco-Console-RJ45-to-DB9/dp/B000GL3MOY/
And a cheap USB-to-DB9 adapter: http://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-USB-RS-232-Serial-Converter/dp/B0007T27H8/
I got this cable and this adapter. I had to install the adapter driver on the disk to get the thing to work. Then find the com port in the device manager. Once I did that I was able to get a serial connection establish.
I then fumbled my way through the CLI, set up a default gateway and when I was able to get to the Web GUI. Also the default gateway cannot be the same as your router. I tried because I didn't know better and it didn't work.
I don't know a lot, but with a good bit of google I was able to get it working.
The Trendnet TU-S9 has been super reliable for me. I have two or three of them floating around.
That may work. I haven't used one like that personally.
I use something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Compatible-RS-232-DB9-Connector-Prolific/dp/B00425S1H8/ref=mp_s_a_1_16?keywords=usb+serial&amp;qid=1574990295&amp;sr=8-16
+
https://www.amazon.com/Cisco-72-3383-01-Rollover-Console-Female/dp/B005S2KPPU/ref=mp_s_a_1_15?keywords=cisco+console+cable&amp;qid=1574990384&amp;sprefix=cisco+co&amp;sr=8-15
This gives you some flexibility to also use it with some network equipment that uses a db9 serial port instead of rj45
Digital Organizers, now that's nostalgia. So you can get a USB to Serial Dongle, but that might just be half the problem, the software to actually read the data might be outdated.
I think the easiest way is to add the contacts manually to the phone and then delete them from the Sharp device. Now you didn't mention the phone so I have no idea how we can help you with that.
Also its possible that while you have 30 years of contacts, maybe not all of them are relevant for one reason or another, so think of this as a digital spring cleaning and only add the contacts you actually need to your phone.
No it doesn't charge. According to one of the comments in the Amazon reviews:
> This cable appears to be a USB-to-Serial adapter similar to http://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-USB-RS-232-Serial-Converter/dp/B0007T27H8 , only instead of coming out at a 9-pin RS232 connector, it comes out at proprietary 3-pin connector.
>
>With that in mind, it's important to note that the cable all by itself, before ever attaching a dive computer, requires drivers. With drivers installed, this cable (again, before ever attaching the dive computer) shows up in Windows as a new COM device (COM7 specifically on my laptop, but yours might enumerate differently).
>
> Knowing that this isn't "just a USB cable" helps to explain why this would be a relatively expensive cable, but at ~$90, you're still at a price points that's at least double what it should be.
I have a USB to TTL Serial Converter that I've used for programming ATmega chipsets and has TXD, RXD 3V3, GND and +5V ports, I just need to figure out which ones are which. I'm guessing I'd use the TXD and RXD, but which else should I use?
The best I've got right now is if you have a rollover cat5 cable, build a new cable which goes from
http://www.db9-pinout.com/
to
http://www.wti.com/images/cables/dx9f-dte-rjc-diagram.png
and then finally to
http://www.andovercg.com/datasheets/cyclades-alterpath-pm-pdu-install-guide.pdf
I ended up using this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005S2KPPU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
And then built a connector that should end up looking like:
Computer Side
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
5 7 6 4 5 3 8 1
PM20-10a Side
I can't actually verify that this is correct, there was a time when i made one of these but I don't have it handy.
I was just reading about null modems for file transfer. I'm having a rather hard time locating a good walk-through. A lot to learn with all this, which is why I am doing it I suppose. A link to some good tutorials would be appreciated so I can stop bothering you
Would this work: StarTech Null Modem - female to male
Sabrent USB to Serial Converter
Can I simply do the copy command via my Windows 10 command prompt or should I be booting some sort of MS DOS installation? Also, can you elaborate more on avoiding IRQ 4? Would I need to buy a separate serial adapter card?
EDIT: Upon further research it looks like there may be more to it than just the simple copy command, including having to initialize the com port beforehand with speeds and stuff I am not familiar with. However I am unable to locate anything conclusive. Other people have to have done this to be able to use mTCP at all so I am puzzled why my googlefu is failing me
This router is a bit of a curious case. It's designed for using 3G and LTE connections. The first thing you should do is get a usb serial and plug into the console port. Download MobaXTerm, it blows putty out of the water. Check your device manager and see what COM pot your adapter is on. Go back to MOBA and select sessions --> new session --> Serial. Sometimes it shows up as prolific. Wait for the router to boot. If you see a "Would you like to enter the initial configuration dialog y/n hit N. Type en and type sh ver. This will show the version of IOS. If it boots into rommon you're screwed as IOSes for this router aren't readily available. I'd HIGHLY suggest checking out Cisco's whitepapers on how this unit functions. The basics are still there, wan/lan. Try using it to set up your house to connect to the internet. Read about the overload command which is how NAT is done. This is also a great way to start getting familiar with the CLI.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6F4WTA :)
It's not common on modern motherboards, but there are adapters. For example, this from Amazon. Check the gender on those connections, make sure straight-through works (or get a null modem adapter). You can add a serial to USB adapter to plug into any computer with a USB port and drivers.
Yes. It's from CableMod but I bought it from amazon. Here is the link:
CableMod Basic Cable Extension Kit - 8+6 Pin Series (Black/White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6F4WTA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KkzXDb1K45HVV
I just bought a basic cablemod extension pack for the larger cables. They just go at the end of your stock PSU cables and look good running to your MOBO.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MYY2CQQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Full kits are between $60-150
Aha! I've downloaded the MCP-2A software and ordered this cable which looks like an excellent substitute for only $8. No Fry's around here unfortunately.
I'm going to connect my HT (a Yaesu FT-60R) to my mobile antenna and give the TNC another go a bit later.
You need a USB to serial adapter, like https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Converter-Prolific-Chipset-TU-S9/dp/B0007T27H8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499385175 or https://www.amazon.com/Console-Essential-Accesory-Ubiquity-Switches/dp/B01AFNBC3K/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499385175&amp;sr=8-8&amp;keywords=usb+to+serial+adapter . Anything with Prolific will work, or SiLabs (also seen in Cygnal stuff). Both have OSX drivers. I think the Prolific drivers may be built in these days.
Anyway - Install the drivers and then you can use screen or other tools to attach to the tty, e.g.
screen /dev/tty.&lt;something&gt; 115200
. All the USB to serial stuff will generally present as a TTY device in /dev.like this https://www.amazon.com/CableMod-Basic-Cable-Extension-Kit/dp/B01MYY2CQQ/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1537331438&sr=1-4&keywords=Cablemod%2BPCIe%2Bextensions&th=1
&#x200B;
Something like this will work:
https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-TU-S9-USB-Serial-Converter/dp/B0007T27H8?th=1
https://www.amazon.com/HDE-9-Pin-Serial-Ethernet-Console/dp/B00979DMSM/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478907245&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=serial+to+ethernet
https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product/vQjG3C/silverstone-power-supply-sstsx600g it comes with an ATX to SFX adapter.
From what i see,you will need cable extensions if you want to route the cables from the back and im not sure if its possible to have them reach from the front.This adds a bit to the complexity of the build
Check the frequently bought together section here to get an idea of what you need.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/BitFenix-8-Pin-EPS12V-Extension-Cable/dp/B00HVBP65U/ref=pd_bxgy_147_img_3/262-8954723-9060533?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B00HVBP65U&amp;pd_rd_r=40d75424-8c3a-4626-a17f-b6e38d62fb0e&amp;pd_rd_w=bKQo6&amp;pd_rd_wg=psXIX&amp;pf_rd_p=7a9d3b22-47b7-4932-be38-57f4219c3325&amp;pf_rd_r=N9VDRRJ74HBHGG2SX344&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=N9VDRRJ74HBHGG2SX344
You will likely also need sata cable extensions but im not sure.
IMO we see how the GPU market looks like in a month and go from there.
USB stands for universal serial port. You can use it. You just might need need an adapter like this one.
it's an old type of computer interface
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RS-232
You can buy a serial to USB converter though and use them on a modern computer just fine.
example:
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Converter-Prolific-Chipset-CB-DB9P/dp/B00IDSM6BW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1521575806&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=serial+to+USB
just google serial to USB on amazon, monoprice, or whatever.
If your laptop doesn't have a serial port, grab one of these : USB to Serial and Cisco Console Cable. This will allow you to configure the switch and add a management IP. After that you will be able access the switch via telnet. You can also set up ssh access which is preferred over telnet. There is plenty of instruction on how to do this, just google.
Now you'll want one of these so you can program your radio with CHIRP. I use a serial-to-USB interface, works well.
>instead of using a straight-up converter for that (which I'm sure exist)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007T27H8
Not sure if it helps, but here are some manufactured options:
RJ45 to DB9
USB to DB9 Female
USB to DB9 Male
Bam! $10 Serial to USB:
http://amzn.com/B0007T27H8
$16 External DVD/CD Drive:
http://amzn.com/B00Y82T6SI
Now you can use any laptop you want! (as long as it has USB ports)
TRENDnet TU-S9 USB to Serial Converter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007T27H8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_s5wuxb8XTQ24G
I have a couple of these that work just fine.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007T27H8?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00
Works fine on windows and linux
From an amazon review of de cable:
>This cable appears to be a USB-to-Serial adapter similar to http://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-USB-RS-232-Serial-Converter/dp/B0007T27H8 , only instead of coming out at a 9-pin RS232 connector, it comes out at proprietary 3-pin connector.
Follow /u/nonewjobs s advice.
Here's an old image that I gave to someone to test:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/owvhmhxt3w6c31n/stratux-serialout_test.img.zip?dl=0
Tested with this: http://amzn.com/B0007T27H8
On a Chelton EFIS.
If you end up trying it, please post the hardware you used and how it worked. It should work just as a normal stratux does on the Wi-Fi network, but send the data over serial at the same time.
https://www.amazon.com/CableMod-Basic-Cable-Extension-Kit/
&#x200B;
But solid white which I don't see as any option anymore.
You cannot connect to it directly from your network interface card. What you need is a roll-over console cable and a usb-to-serial adapter.
http://www.amazon.com/Generic-HKUS-FB000GL3MOYT-T000650F-Cisco-Console-RJ45-to-DB9/dp/B000GL3MOY
http://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-RS-232-Serial-Converter-TU-S9/dp/B0007T27H8/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1415759891&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=usb+to+serial
USB to your computer, connect the serial ends and plug the RJ45 into the console port of the switch.
Once you have done that, you'll need to select SERIAL connection from putty, you can find what COM port your usb-to-serial device is on by going to devices and printers in windows. Change the COM port in putty to match, and make sure the connection settings are:
Bits per sec : 9600
Data bits : 8
Parity : none
Stop bits : 1
Flow control : none
click connect and press a key if you see no output on the screen.
This might be worth a $10 gamble. I haven't tried it, but unless Trimble is doing something proprietary, I don't see why a generic 9-pin serial to USB wouldn't work.
Gotcha buddy.
https://www.amazon.com/Console-Essential-Accesory-Ubiquity-Switches/dp/B01AFNBC3K/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=usb+serial+rj45&amp;qid=1565091778&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-3
This what I use. Imagine you are using Windows. Double check to make sure your serial port is showing up in hardware manager. If you can see the port in the program but it’s not connecting make sure the baud rates match.
Or you made need a USB to serial adapter if the array doesn’t have an rj45 comms port and has a db9 comms port.
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Converter-Prolific-Chipset-CB-DB9P/dp/B00IDSM6BW/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=usb+to+serial&amp;qid=1565092473&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-3
2 of these:
http://www.amazon.com/BitFenix-Alchemy-Multisleeve-6-Pin-Extension/dp/B00FQQB2BY
Or something similar, while expensive, will do what you want. They're extension with one male and one female connector, so you add them on to your existing cables from your PSU, then tuck all the excess away.
You can get a USB to serial cable and then use the console cable to connect to the switch to reset it.
https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-TU-S9-USB-Serial-Converter/dp/B0007T27H8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1466537968&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=usb+to+serial
>APC AP7753
APC RJ-12 serial cable.
> Dell Powerconnect 6224
That needs a null modem. I use this straight-through serial cable plus these slim null modem adapters with a random eBay USB serial adapter with a male plug.
> Hp 2810 (4 switches varying in port count) Fujitsu XG2600 (26port SFP+ switch)
Most things I've bought that have RJ-45 serial ports work with the standard "blue Cisco cable". Some need a null modem adapter and some don't.
probably a type of serial connector (RS 232)
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Serial-Adapter-RS232/dp/B00J4N9T9C/ref=sxin_2_sxwds-bovbs?keywords=rs232+to+usb&pd_rd_i=B00J4N9T9C&pd_rd_r=4af7532e-0084-4f01-a7a7-9d2af82a9931&pd_rd_w=j7AAN&pd_rd_wg=sxPkV&pf_rd_p=b866bc3b-cfe5-45c1-897c-a8525a3335d9&pf_rd_r=5DE303G7R1VDC6JWSCK1&qid=1567192406&s=gateway
Usually switches run RS-232 over RJ45, not Ethernet. We usually use a combination of a USB-Serial adapter and DB9 to RJ45 Rollover
But I also see now we have USB to RJ45 RS-232
Then we connect using
screen /dev/ttyUSB0 9600
The cable you linked won't work. You will need the Celestron serial to rj12 cable then use a 232 to USB cable to plug into your laptop.
https://www.amazon.com/Celestron-Nexstar-232-Interface-Cable/dp/B0000665UZ
here , not 20 but close enough, these are the ones I got.
USB and old-school serial are completely different. You can get a USB-serial adapter for very cheap online though. A lot cheaper than $25.
edit: for example: http://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-USB-RS-232-Serial-Converter/dp/B0007T27H8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1421088980&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=usb+serial
Adapter
For about $10 you can get this.
ADT Pro and some floppies! http://adtpro.com
You will need a serial din to PC serial cable to use ADT.
Hosa DBK-110 Synthesizer Controller Cable, 8-pin Mini-DIN to DE9, 10 ft https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068OER/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_B80ZDb4G5XXED
The Prolific Serial -> USB is what you use to plug into your PC.
Switch Console port -> Cisco Console to Serial cable -> serial to USB adapter -> USB port on PC
Cisco console cable: https://www.amazon.com/Cisco-72-3383-01-Rollover-Console-Female/dp/B005S2KPPU/
Prolific Serial to USB adapter: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Converter-Prolific-Chipset-CB-DB9P/dp/B00IDSM6BW/
They have console -> usb cables, but YMMV on that.
If you have a non-modular, extensions are the way to go. They literally are extension cables that you plug in the mustard and ketchup cable in one end and the MB in the other.
Here is a green 24 pin motherboard extension:
http://www.amazon.com/BitFenix-Alchemy-Multisleeve-24-Pin-Extension/dp/B00HVBPQWS
And here is the 6pin PCIe for your GPU (x2):
http://www.amazon.com/BitFenix-Alchemy-Multisleeve-6-Pin-Extension/dp/B00HVBPCRM
If you are referring to the white connector, that is a serial port.
You probably need a USB to serial cable. Example:
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-RS-232-Male-Serial/dp/B00J4N9T9C/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1505475484&amp;sr=8-2-spons&amp;keywords=usb+to+serial&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Serial-RS-232-Converter-CB-DB9P/dp/B00IDSM6BW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1479225100&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=9pin+serial+to+usb ?
I have a D-Link DGS-3024 switch, and it has a female console port, do I just need a regular serial to USB cable?
http://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-RS-232-Serial-Converter-TU-S9/dp/B0007T27H8/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1380836922&amp;sr=8-14&amp;keywords=male+console+cable
would a basic extension kit(8+6pin) by cable mod be enough?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N6F4WTA/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2UGMDPNFNIL9E&psc=1
here is a link
I ordered this one.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IDSM6BW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00
I've test with 2 USB to serial adapters This and This. OP of the article uses This 4 to 1 cable but I personally thought it was a bit expensive.
I have the rasp pi 2. It should work with all versions though.
I haven't tested with a usb hub just yet. But I can and will. I don't see why you would need a powered one though.
wifi adapter
This is the one I got. You'd need either an older PC with a serial port, or a USB serial adapter. I use a USB serial adapter I found in a thrift store.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ALULFX0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I'll add this item, you will need to talk to your switches: USB to Serial
Do you already have the center serial cable? If so, then you can pick up a cheap usb/serial converter cable.
This is the cable I used when setting it up. I just stuck a female-female null modem adapter on the end (had to remove the screws for it to fit)
For interfacing, I used a paid app on my Macbook. It's just called "Serial", it's got some nice features and UI.
I have a DEC Rainbow connected to my RPI using serial. It's not particularly hard. I suggest buying a USB-to-RS232 adapter. Mine is a TRENDnet that seems to work fine on all Linux machines I've plugged it into.
I also have a serial adapter on my GPIO pins using a MAX3232 chip. This solution, however, stinks. The RPI only provides TX/RX on the GPIO pins. There are no other pins, making hardware flow control impossible. There are no DTS, DCD, RTS, CTS, etc. signals available. These lacking features really confuse some of the Rainbow's comm software. On top of that, operating above 9600bps without these flow control mechanisms, even though Xon/Xoff flow control is enabled, regularly leads to a corrupted data stream. That's why I would strongly suggest using the USB-to-RS232 adapter instead of the RPI's GPIO pins.
I just bought an FWS648G last week and the consoles are probably the same.
In my case, I just used a USB to RS232 DB9 adapter with a
null modem F-F adapterF-F gender changer.Edit: I was mistaken, turns out the cable I used was just a straight gender changer (not a null modem).
For example this one auto-installed and hasn't given me any trouble.
First off, unless I'm mistaken, /r/homenetworking would be the right place for this thread.
The 1242 is not a router, it is a Wireless Access Point.
You need a Cisco Console Cable and a (USB-RS232 Adapter)[https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Converter-Prolific-Chipset-TU-S9/dp/B0007T27H8/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1486739466&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=serial+to+usb] for your laptop.
Some basic google searching can lead you to various simple guides on Cisco's website for your intended use case.
Because that's totally a problem that can't be fixed for $10.36 for same day delivery.
Of course, I need this stuff for work, as my job occasionally has me working with legacy factory equipment.
I feel your pain. Get one of these.