There is at least one that gets recommended without hesitation for that exact budget: the Cambridge Audio DAC Magic. It's currently $429 on Amazon, has many features and adjustments to get the sound you like, and has USB, Toslink, and Coax inputs, and RCA and balanced XLR outputs. It does full upsampling and clock resynchronization to 24/192, so you'll have no issues whether coming from USB or optical. You can't get much better than that feature-wise, and reviews all say it sounds great.

Excuse my enthusiasm, I've wanted one of these for a long time, ever since I heard one in a hi-fi shop a couple years ago. Perhaps it was the B&W speakers and McIntosh tube amp, but the Dac Magic was the source and the experience was great.

Other options:

• The Musical Fidelity V-DAC - less of a showpiece, but it appears to be an excellent workhorse sound-wise.
  
  
• The HRT MusicStreamer for USB only - also more of a one-in-one-out utility DAC, but apparently very good quality.
  
  
• MusicHall DAC 25.3 - Slightly more expensive, also has great reviews, and has a headphone amp built-in.
  
  
• The Creative E-MU 0404 audio interface also gets great reviews for its DAC, and is relatively cheap at $199. Definitely more of an all-in-one toolbox, but the specs and apparently the sound are great.
  
  *edit: Fixed the DAC Magic's sampling capability spec to 24/192 as is correct.

Don't get too hung up on 24-bit audio. What's more important is to get equipment that'll allow you to tell the difference between 24-bit and 16-bit (depending on your ears, this might not even be possible).

Your home theater will be centered around either a receiver or a processor (If you're not prepared to spend more than $5,000 on the project, it will be a receiver). Gaming consoles, blu-ray players, and PC's will all be able to transmit uncompressed (PCM or TrueHD) surround sound to a receiver via HDMI.

In the meantime, we need to get high-fidelity stereo audio from your PC. This can be accomplished many ways, including the following:

• DAC + Powered Speakers: The cheapest and easiest solution, but the quality isn't going to be mind-blowing. Get a FiiO D3 if your existing sound card supports S/PDIF-out, or an HRT Music Streamer if it doesn't. As for powered speakers, the Swan M200MKIII are hard to beat.
  
  
• Receiver & Passive Speakers: This solution will be the easiest to upgrade when it comes time to build your home theater. I'm not hip to receivers, so you will have to ask elsewhere for advice on which to buy. You can use a pair of high-quality bookshelf speakers, such as the Monitor Audio M2, in the meantime. When you upgrade to 7.1, they can be re-used as your rear speakers.
  
  
• DAC & Amp & Passive Speakers: With this solution, the quality of the end result is only limited by your budget. You can use one of the two DACs I linked above, or something more high-end like a Musical Fidelity V-DAC. From there you need either an integrated amp or a separate power amp and preamp. Add a pair of high-quality bookshelf speakers for a truly hi-fi experience. I can't really tell you what to buy, since there are so many options, but you should be able to find a ton of advice online. Your selection isn't affected by the fact that you're using a DAC; you're looking for the same amps and speakers as people using turntables or CD/SACD players. Many amazing deals can be found on Audiogon.
  
  
• HEADPHONES: The combination of a DAC, headphone amp, and a pair of audiophile cans will net you much higher quality than a speaker system at the same price. Combining an HRT Music Streamer, a Little Dot MKIII, and a pair of Beyerdynamic DT-990 600-ohm will give you incredible sound for your money. There's a ton of other good options for cans, amps, and DACs, so shop around.

What do you mean "power it"? SM57B is a dynamic mic, so it doesn't require power. If, as I imagine, you mean that the 2i2 doesn't pre-amp it rightly (too much noise maybe? cheap pre-amps!) the One could definitely be a better choice, it is a nice pre-amp and definitely better that the one included in the 2i2. Still you have an issue on how to get the sound into the pc. As I see it, the One could have a SPDIF toslink (optical) connection (it needs to be upgraded with a card or you have to buy the Digital version) while your Creative has SPDIF coaxial connection, so you would just need an adapter, there are cheap on the market. Look on google for S/PDIF Coaxial to Optical, something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Coaxial-Toslink-Optical-Converter/dp/B001622FL8

Also being that the Focurite One is pricey you could just buy some active gain preamp like the CL1 suggested by /u/meanunicorns and save a bit of money.

From Amazon:
> When the power supply voltage changes in 5-8 v, it can be used as a variable gain amplifier, gain increases with the increase of the power supply voltage, which suitable for radio frequency receive front-end circuit, using DA control power supply voltage, to control the gain of the amplifier, automatic gain control
> When the power supply voltage in the 8-10 v, the low frequency end gain up to 30 db, at this time the amplifier has a low noise coefficient and good stability.
> When the voltage is 12 v, reach maximum gain, the low frequency end gain of 32.5 dB.

https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-0-1-2000MHz-WideBand-Amplifier-Noise/dp/B01N2NJSGV

Here in this sticky comment you will find an overview of the deals posted in this thread for your benefit. If you find that one of the deals has run out please let me know. Off-topic top level comments asking what to buy will be removed, deals that are missing some of the info will not make it to the list. Also I've changed suggested sorting to "New".

Official Manufacturer Sales

CIEM

• Empire Ears 15% discount store wide with code "BFsale15"
  
• 64 Audio 15-20% off on most Universals and Customs starting Friday
  
• JH Audio 10-20% off using code "BLACKFRIDAY2018"
  
• Noble Audio 15% off CIEM 20% off UIEM
  
• Inearz 35% off CIEM's with ADEL modules
  
• Alclair up to 30% off on CIEMs
  
• Cleartune Monitors 20% off on CIEM's, cables and BT cables
  
• Jomo Audio 15% off both customs and universals
  
• Custom Art new FIBAE Black, launch price from €369 til' end of year. Regular price from €450
  
• Earsonics Various codes on their website, 50% off on refurbs + discounts on CIEM/UIEM.
  
  

  Headphones
  

• Master & Dynamic 20% off under $500 code "BFD20" 30% off $500+ code "BFD30"
  
• Brainwavz Various deals including B400 for $159.50, Earpads 25% discount and more.
  
• Audeze B-stock sale on LCD2-C, iSine, Sine and El-8.
  
• Campfire Audio Vega 36% off, Jupiter 15% off as well as free/discounted cables with some purchases.
  
• Campfire Audio also has a big B stock sale, products generally go quick.
  
• KEF M500 for $100
  
• Monoprice Headphones and speaker related items for sale. M1060 $200 and more.
  
• Koss 50-67% of Porta pros and more
  
• 1More Various promotions incl. 1More triple driver $149.99
  
  
  

  DACs and Amplifiers and other peripherals
  

  
  

• ALO Audio Big deals on portable amps, only 6 units in total at the moment of writing!
  
• Bottlehead Audio DIY amp kits are off by 15%.
  
• Linum Cables Notable discounts on very discreet thin cables for inears.
  
• Sonarworks True-fi software 40% off
  
  

  Audio Store
  

  
  

• Shenzhenaudio Headphones, inears, earbuds, amps, dacs you name it
  
• Musicteck UM, Cayin, Pioneer SE-M5, AAW and much more
  
• Moon Audio Deals on Hifiman, Focal etc.
  
• LSR-Direct on Amazon Additional 15% 5% coupon code "LINSOUL2018" Stackable with existing coupons that are clippable by the Amazon store.
  
• Lendmeurears Promotions on Dunu, TFZ, Onkyo + alot more.
  
• Hifiheadphones UK Big deals on Campfire, Westone, Beyerdynamic, Shanling etc.
  
• Massdrop Audio Technica A & AD line of cans
  
  
  

  Online / Retailer
  

  
  

  USA
  

  
  

• Bestbuy Sony XM2 $199
  
• Amazon Sony XM2 $198 Can also be shipped from Focus Camera if you so wish.
  
• Guitar Center 15% off using code "THANKS" Audeze, Fostex, Beyerdynamic etc
  
• Amazon Monoprice Monolith Dac/amp $66 down from $94
  
• Rakuten has 20% off sitewide with the code BF20 (max $60 discount).
  
• eBay Sennheiser PXC 480 59% off $119.99
  
• Amazon Sennheiser PXC550 $199.99
  
• Amazon Etymotic ER4XR $299
  
• Amazon Sennheiser HD1 Wireless $199.95
  
• Amazon Hiby R3 Black $149
  
• Amazon Koss porta pro black $29.99
  
• Amazon Creative Aruvana Live! $40
  
• Shopmyexchange Sony XM3 $220 no tax for US military/Veterans only Price shown on login
  
• Amazon Topping D30 $89
  
  

  UK
  

  
  

• Scan Refurb AKG K702 £78
  
• RHA Limited selection, MA750 BT 25% off with a few more models discounted
  
  

  Sweden
  

  
  

• Komplett.se Sony Z1R 10990kr
  
• Hifi-punkten Focal Clear 12990kr
  
• CDON 30% off Beyerdynamic consumer line
  
  

  Finland
  

  
  

• Verkkokauppa AKG K550 MK3 €99
  
  

  Australia
  

  
  

• Minidisc Discounts of Focal, 64 Audio, Empire Ears, Campfire, Fostex, and specials on demo gear with much more.
  
  

  Canada
  

  
  

• Amazon Sennheiser HD4.5 $150
  
• Amazon Sennheiser HD1 $270
  

Well, I can just tell you what I did, so as not to insult anyone: About 3 years ago I put down a chunk of money for a gaming PC investment. I had top of the line everything.

I am also a music / positional sound enthusiast, so I have nice music/gaming headphones, a headphone amp (to "drive" any decent headphones), along with a V-DAC (external headphone plug-in box which eliminates electrical computer sounds that any decent headphones tend to pick up). Some headphone amps have dacs built in, but the M-Stage and V-DAC are separate and a good combo.

Anyways, the computer is 3 years old, but it still runs everything at max, partially due to console technology being 7 years behind, and most PC games are console ported games these days. I am willing to bet that my computer lasts another 5 years. But the best part is, if it falls behind, i can simply upgrade the video card later.
I personally much prefer mouse/keyboard to a gamepad. It feels like having a Bat computer.

ASUS Gaming z170 something or other mobo (I can get the model later if needed)

Vizio 40" from 2015 > TOSLINK and RCA audio out.

Schiit Modi 2 and Magni 2 Uber

Old Sansui A-5 Stereo amp.

I am using basic cables all around, HDMI, Optical, and RCAs. Once again I have no noise issue when running direct from my PC TOSLINK to the Modi, but if I run through the TV there is noticeable hiss.

I also have a cheap DAC/Amp like this:
https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Supports-control/dp/B06XDLCHY7/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1540561437&sr=8-8&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=dac+amp

It is probably the best option right now but it clutters up my desk with the cable layout. It will work if I have no other option though.

I just wish the Sansui and the Modi shared a connection type. If I could just buy a splitter that would send the signal to both, I'd be fine.

What you're looking for is a headphone amplifier or a DAC, though I'm not seeing very many headphone amps with TOSLink (optical) built-in. You could use a converter to go from TOSLink to RCA and then use a headphone amp to go from RCA to your headphones. I found this guy on Amazon, but I don't know anything about it and cannot in any way vouch for its quality: https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Optical-Converter-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B003XCHCLC

Alternatively, if you hook up a home theater system most receivers have a 1/4" jack on them (but that's a lot of expense if you're just trying to get a headphone connection).

EDIT: Ah! After a bit of searching, I think I found exactly what you need: https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Supports-control/dp/B06XDLCHY7/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1538502346&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=toslink+to+RCA&psc=1

At $22 it's not going to be all that great, but it will get you the connection you're looking for. This will probably sound about as good as the output from your iPod, but it won't compare to a proper headphone amp. If you want a high quality setup, you'll want a high quality DAC paired with a headphone amp.

What headphones are you using?

If you search PS4 amp on Amazon you get several results across multiple price points. This for example looks solid but has some reviews you may want to inspect before purchase.

The one I wrote in my original post is one that I own and know works wonders. Unfortunately I haven’t used any of these amps to report and recommend, but more than happy to look around.

Well a good route could be Fiio D3 for a cheapo DAC with optical in, which I find cleans up a lot of the noise especially when compared to USB DACs. Spend a little more on the amp, which impacts the sound more than the DAC.


PC>optical cable>Fiio D3>RCA>Schiit Magni

Should be under $150 including cables/shipping.

Edit: just saw what you were running. You really don't need much for your headphones. Honestly if you're having problems with a "noisy" source all you'd really need is an optical DAC to clean things up. Your source should provide more than enough power to power your audio technicas.

PROZOR Digital to Analog Converter 192kHz DAC Supports Volume control Digital Coaxial SPDIF Toslink to Analog Stereo L/R RCA 3.5mm Jack Audio Adapter for PS3 XBox HDDVD PS4 Home Cinema Systems AV Amps https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XDLCHY7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SFY-yb216G0JC

Cheap and well reviewed.

First double check that your PC doesn't have a combo jack (3.5mm analog and 3.5mm optical in the same port). a lot of modern PCs (especially macs) have this and if that's the case this is your best bet for audio. This is what you'd want.

​

If you're using HDMI output (especially if you're using a receiver or multiple HDMI inputs), something like this is a good choice.

​

If not, your next best bet is a internal soundcard with optical output (like this one) if it's a desktop, or an external USB soundcard with an optical output if it's a laptop (like this one).

​

If neither of these work, and/or you're on a device that only has a 3.5mm analog output and nothing else, you can use one of these with one of these adapters. It's known as an analog to digital converter (ADC) and will take in analog (RCA/3.5mm) and convert it to a digital format like optical. This isn't super recommended, as it add extra conversion steps to the process and will reduce the sound quality of your soundbar somewhat unless you pay out extra money for a high quality professional ADC.

Was the manual in the box? I just looked through a manual for a similar model, and it had pretty well described hookup scenarios in it. Maybe we could gleam some understanding from that?

My current theory is that there should have been an 1/8" female to dual RCA cable like this. My thought is that, based on the fact that this was supposed to be a 4.1 system, they wanted two separate digital audio inputs, but instead of simply putting two RCA Jack's, they went with 1/8" for some weird reason.

If this is the case, you'd need to buy a cable similar to the one shown above, as well as an adapter like this. You'd plug your laptop/iPod into the RCA input side of the converter with a cable like this, and then one of the two RCAs from your adapter cable above would go into the RCA output side, which then gets plugged into the wire from your speaker.

Again, this is an educated guess, manual might give more insight, but I can't seem to find that exact model.

I used to use bluetooth headphones with my pstv and the sound was decent but I recently switched to a toslink converter and the sound quality is much much better. I think most tvs have an optical audio out.

The one I got has no volume control which is a little annoying but you can get a headphone volume knob or this model has one built in.

Gives probably the best setup possible for rhythm games on pstv, music also sounds 10x better.

https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Supports-control/dp/B06XDLCHY7

Even sitting across the room, the Klipsch is much louder and fuller. The sub handling mid bass may be the reason?

Another thing that threw me for a loop is that unlike my old TV, the new one doesn't have analog audio out, so I can't simply plug in another set of desktop speakers like I used to. Are you pretty much forced to use a receiver on modern sets, or would something like this be a workable solution?

Considering just returning the whole set and grabbing some wireless surround system that goes on sale next few days.

Also pick up something like https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-0-1-2000MHz-Wide-Amplifier-Noise/dp/B01N2NJSGV or an LNA4HF / LNA4ALL if you want much better performance. :-)

If you also ran CAT-5/6 then you could use something like this. Best that I could come up with.

My dad passed down his Martin Logan Vantages and his Krell kav 400xi amplifier to me. Growing up with him I was used to listening to them with a pretty high end source (he had a high end record player and CD player.) He kept the sources, so this is my current setup:

XBox sends sound to TV via HDMI, then through the optical audio out on the TV to a DAC (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XDLCHY7/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1), which is connected directly to the amp.

I typically am just streaming Spotify, but I often hear distortion in songs where previously there was none. It just doesn't sound too good. I don't really own CDs; streaming music is what I do. I know I won't get the same high-end sound as a CD or a vinyl, but what would be your recommendation for a source that will stream to the krell amp?

Thanks!

Thanks everyone for your insight, this is the LNA I picked up off of Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-0-1-2000MHz-Wide-Amplifier-Noise/dp/B01N2NJSGV/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494182132&sr=8-1&keywords=low+noise+amplifier

So far I have to say I'm not seeing much improvement with terrestrial signals from it. I was actually comparing local FM stations with it vs just a basic antenna and it actually seems to be 10 DB less with the LNA powered by 4 AA batteries.

I should be seeing stronger FM signals with the LNA plugged in correct?

> Yamaha YAS-101

sorry, I didn't register that it was in your title. can you post a picture of your turntable's rear panel? I'm having trouble finding information on it on google. your soundbar doesn't have analog inputs, so you're gonna need an analog to digital converter, unless your turntable has digital outputs, which it sounds like it doesn't

if your turntable has a phono stage, you just need to convert RCA to TOSLINK, something like this analog to digital converter would work

if your turntable doesn't have a phono stage, you'll need one of those as well. so you'd need this phono stage as well as the aforementioned Analog to Digital converted

The data stream is going to be a few kilohertz at most with these cheap 443 MHz units so that low cost USB scope will work. You only need to tap on to the data output of the 443 MHz receiver to read the data being sent.

You'll have to do manual decoding which is not hard at all. There are protocol analyzers built in to oscilloscopes, though. There is something to be said for a desktop scope particularly if it's your main scope. The "color temperature display and 256-intensity grading" feature is extremely valuable.

https://www.amazon.com/Siglent-Technologies-SDS1202X-Oscilloscope-Channels/dp/B06XZML6RD/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?keywords=Siglent+SDS1104X-E+100Mhz+digital+oscilloscope+2+channels+standard+decoder&qid=1567190698&s=industrial&sr=1-1-fkmr0

To directly sample a 433 MHz signal you'd need a 5 GHz or so oscilloscope which is many thousands of dollars. You pay for speed.

edit- with on-off keying you can put something like this with a wire antenna next to the transmitter and just read the output with any scope. I can also pick up some data streams from my cell phone with this although it's not on-off keying.

https://www.amazon.com/AD8318-Logarithmic-Detector-Measurement-1-8000MHz/dp/B074RFSLMP/ref=lp_306884011_1_2?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1567191106&sr=1-2

Longer antenna cables are always a better idea than longer USB. To do it right, use an amplifier like this on a short cable right after the antenna, but before a long cable run.

To be clear, like this: Antenna -> short cable to amplifier -> amplifier -> long cable to SDR.

USB cables can be chained together to make really long ones, but you get into timing errors and induced noise if you go longer than 16.5 feet. And then, you're really not sure if what you're hearing is real, or an artifact (induced).

You can get those level shifters with Tx Rx labeling. It's the same thing, just different board labeling.

But those level shifters are relatively slow, which might be why your 3.3V to 5V pulse is getting lost. Try an active buffer like the 74HCT125 buffer to shift 3.3V to 5V at high speed.

Use DAC for headphones. You’re GF is going to love that crisp sound.

Here’s the one I used. It’s a 192 khz 24bit DAC amplifier with volume control.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XDLCHY7/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_B.9-BbE4PRTYF

Tested on Pacific Rim 4k *fight scene, ohh boy it’s so good.

I simply used the HiLetGo model which is .100 KHz to 2 Ghz. I enclosed it, mounted 2 connectors for the case, and a knob to vary the voltage from 12v to 5v providing adjustable gain depending on the need. I didn’t design the preamp or anything, just made it look a little more professional. Here’s the link for the amplifier. The case was taken from my old cell phone site I dismantled but I’m sure there are other aluminum cases out there.

You are looking for something along these lines:

https://amazon.com/Converter-192kHz-Techole-Aluminum-Converter-Headphone/dp/B07MPF4F68/ref=sr_1_4?crid=27BU29OQEP1Y&keywords=toslink+to+rca+converter&qid=1563574281&s=electronics&sprefix=tosl%2Celectronics%2C160&sr=1-4

​

https://amazon.com/ROOFULL-Digital-Converter-Toslink-Optical/dp/B07142SV1D/ref=sr_1_3?crid=27BU29OQEP1Y&keywords=toslink+to+rca+converter&qid=1563574281&s=electronics&sprefix=tosl%2Celectronics%2C160&sr=1-3

​

Or, if you are insane & wealthy:

https://www.berkeleyaudiodesign.com/alpha-dac-reference-series-3

​

p.s. I believe you will need something like this if you don't have it already:

​

https://amazon.com/JSAUX-Shielded-Gold-Plated-Compatible-Smartphones/dp/B07D8M5DML/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=RCA+male+too+3.5&qid=1563574516&s=electronics&sr=1-2-spons&psc=1

​

https://amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Cable/dp/B01D5H8JW0/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=RCA+male+too+3.5&qid=1563574516&s=electronics&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1

Im not good at how to look at how good my dacs is on the motherboard. Here is however the link of it. It does have optical out.

I do have an external [dac](PROZOR Digital to Analog Converter 192kHz DAC Supports Volume control Digital Coaxial SPDIF Toslink to Analog Stereo L/R RCA 3.5mm Jack Audio Adapter https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B06XDLCHY7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_zzfHEXmPKizcD) which i bought for my ps4. Is that good enough?

I know i said a big ass speaker wont work but I would still like to look into it. Maybe its big enough that it might actually fit in my small ass desk.

Another option would be pretty much the same thing I mentioned except for having a volume control. https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Supports-control/dp/B06XDLCHY7

These have powered amps for passive speakers as well as a preamp with digital inputs, bluetooth and headphone amp.

• https://www.amazon.com/Topping-MX3-Bluetooth-Headphome-Amplifier/dp/B075SYC4Z5
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-DTA-PRO-Bluetooth-Amplifier/dp/B07MQVWW43/
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Klipsch-PowerGate-Amplified-Wireless-Gateway/dp/B01N0A7PH5
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/PS-Audio-Sprout100-Complete-Digital/dp/B07D9V4JNC/
  
  
  Preamp only (without a speaker amplifier) -
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/DX3-Pro-Headphone-Amplifier-Bluetooth/dp/B07KG9P3X3/
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Dilvpoetry-SMSL-Headphone-Amplifier-Integrated/dp/B078T9WNLC/
  
  This one doesn't have a headphone amp built in- you'd need a separate one -
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-SMSL-Sanskrit-Converter-Decoding/dp/B077XC64WF/
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-Sanskrit-Pha-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B017VXQ7OG/

LiNKFOR HDMI Audio Extractor Converter HDMI to Optical TOSLINK SPDIF + HDMI with 3.5mm Stereo Audio Splitter Adapter HDMI 1.4 Version Support 4K x 2K 3D https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B073J12Y8N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_M50vDbNFTK07X will this do the job?

Similar to what I'm trying....

Just ordered this last night:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N8UYGMW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

My hope is to go monitor>beam.
Monitor 3.5 port > RCA Y cable > LinkS adapter link > Toslink/Digital optical > HDMI adapter included with the beam.

Not sure if that is exactly what you're looking for or not. But if so I can tell you tomorrow or the day after when it shows up.

Looking more closely, you would also need a cable like this:

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07MPF4F68/

PCB stands for printed circuit board.

I think something like this would make sense:

https://www.amazon.com/TDA2030-2X15W-Audio-Amplifier-Electronics/dp/B01488AIOM/

I'm planning to get this DAC for my stereo bookshelf speakers. Do you guys recommend it ?


http://www.amazon.com/TOPPING-D20-Function-Optical-Coaxial/dp/B00A2QLD80

If you can spring for it get an icharger 308 DUO. ($240) and you'll need a PSU for it. It'll discharge that big battery in under an hour. OR you can also get a stand-alone discharger like this - https://www.amazon.com/ISDT-Discharger-Discharing-Capacity-Discharging/dp/B0775PDWZM

Something like this on the data pins then? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BNYVJBB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_TUfYDbNM79QGM

Just need something like this:


https://www.amazon.com/Converter-192kHz-Techole-Aluminum-Converter-Headphone/dp/B07MPF4F68/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=optical+dac+to+mini&qid=1573778798&sr=8-5

Take optical out of TV into that, then headphone jack to Bose aux input.

You will need to get audio from the Xbox via the S/PDIF output using an optical audio cable, then you will need to convert that digital audio signal to analog using a converter like this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FF124N5?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf (the one I linked to comes with a digital audio cable, so you don’t have to purchase that separately)

You can then use a standard 3.5mm cable going from the converter to your line-in port on your pc.

I have this exact set up working for me currently

I use something like this to go from the optical audio output on the PS4 to my older amp via an RCA cable. So PS4>Optical Audio cable>Optical to RCA conversion>RCA cable>Amp

Not noticeable

I use a very simple and cheap one, looks like this

https://www.amazon.com/avedio-links-Digital-Converter-Adapter/dp/B00N8UYGMW/ref=sr_1_8?crid=2VFOBMU4APTO0&keywords=toslink+analog+to+digital&qid=1554578709&s=gateway&sprefix=toslink+analog%2Caps%2C234&sr=8-8

You'll need an SPDIF DAC like this one Then you can hook up your wireless headphones to the DAC.

the jetson nano is a 3.3v device you will need to output 5v if the device you are using needs 5v with one of these level converters:

HiLetgo 5pcs TXS0108E High Speed Full Duplex 8 Way 8 Channel Level Conversion Module 8-Bit 8 CH Logic Level Bi-Directional Converter Module https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BNYVJBB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5gIjDbY5TKNGV

if its a 3.3v device then maybe make sure you have a correct pullup resistor On your device.

I linked the one I'm using. I also just ordered some of these and these. Will those both work?

Also, are there any smaller options without the pins sticking out? I just want a small little one channel converter...

just get a 3.5mm stereo >> XLR splitter cable.

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-HMX-010Y-XLR3M-Stereo-Breakout/dp/B00YSAVUZ2/

done with one cable. get an equalizer app for your phone.

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alternately, get a set of cables that are RCA >> XLR splitter

https://www.amazon.com/TISINO-Cable-Stereo-Connection-Microphone/dp/B077L3PG45/

you'll take the RCA outs from whatever source you want such as

https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Bluetooth-Receiver/dp/B07L72S6PG/

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XLR is meant to be daisy chained from speaker to speaker. so you need to plug your L/R XLR cables into your sub first, then use jumper cables to feed your monitors.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Male-Female-Microphone-Cable/dp/B01JNLTTKS/

I use a Musical Fidelity V-DAC II to do exactly that (except via RCA rather than 3.5mm) and it works fine.

IIRC the Dolby Headphone effects aren't applied to the MP3 port. Just something to note. You're only going to get basic stereo sound.

To get surround, you'd either want the old Mixamp, which had analog stereo game inputs, or you can use something like this which will let you hook it up to the optical input.

can you tell me what you think about this please??https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Toslink-Adapter/dp/B06XDLCHY7/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1543191372&sr=8-4&keywords=dac&th=1

You can use an optical to rca or 3.5mm converter. That is if your PS4 had optical audio out. I can't remember if the slim model does.

I used to use one to connect up a high quality headphone amp for my sim racing setup.

Digital to Analog Audio Converter-192kHz Techole Aluminum Optical to RCA with Optical &Coaxial Cable. Digital SPDIF TOSLINK to Stereo L/R and 3.5mm Jack DAC Converter for PS4 Xbox HDTV DVD Headphone https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MPF4F68/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_4L7UDbTX1DTDP

It's this one. I run antenna -> Band Pass Filter -> Amp -> SDR

Monoprice monolith DAC/amp $66 down from $94

https://www.amazon.com/Monolith-Hi-Res-DAC-Headphone-Amp/dp/B07BP2WYKZ/ref=mp_s_a_1_35?ie=UTF8&qid=1542920645&sr=8-35&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=dac&dpPl=1&dpID=21VW8V4R%2BmL&ref=plSrch

That's exactly what I do. I've got my Chromecast plugged into this:

https://www.amazon.ca/LiNKFOR-Extractor-Converter-Optical-Splitter/dp/B073J12Y8N/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_23_tr_t_2/146-9294734-5516354?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=W3B9N54ESY3GTF5JTF5D

And then a separate set of speakers and the HDMI cable plugs directly into the monitor.

What about this?

What I had purchased was- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MPF4F68/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_rqJqDbYT542E8

are you recommending a 1/4 stereo to RCA connector and connecting that into the headphone jack?

Might work if you get this: Digital to Analog Audio Converter-192kHz Techole Aluminum Optical to RCA with Optical &Coaxial Cable. Digital SPDIF TOSLINK to Stereo L/R and 3.5mm Jack DAC Converter for PS4 Xbox HDTV DVD Headphone https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MPF4F68/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_om5QDbD3PC444

You'll need to go digital out from the TV then convert to the RCA red and white in to video 1 on the receiver.

https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Supports-control/dp/B06XDLCHY7/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1505762354&sr=8-5&keywords=dac+amp

Does it have to be bluetooth? You are just trying to get audio out right? Perhaps try a digital to analog audio Converter out of the Optical audio port.

Just to confirm:

ps4 connected to Optical to RCA analog converter

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XDLCHY7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2Sx1DbEX2GJC1


Then: RCA to XLR cable run from converter to speakers

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077L3PG45/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_IVx1DbM7QG40N

Would this work?

Digital to Analog Audio Converter-192kHz Techole Aluminum Optical to RCA with Optical &Coaxial Cable. Digital SPDIF TOSLINK to Stereo L/R and 3.5mm Jack DAC Converter for PS4 Xbox HDTV DVD Headphone https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MPF4F68/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_MoO3DbFK1BRJ2

would this work? https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Supports-control/dp/B06XDLCHY7/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&dpID=419qZ0dihuL&dpPl=1&keywords=dac%2Bamp&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&qid=1501564594&ref=plSrch&ref_=mp_s_a_1_7&sr=8-7&th=1

I don't have a perfect solution for you. Your best bet would most likely be to convert the console optical to analog (rca or 3.5) and use a regular mixer. I also couldn't find a mixer with optical out, so you would then have to convert back to optical, which is kind of lame (unless your transmitter has a 3.5 input).

If you wanted to go this route here is a cheap optical/rca and here is a "cheap" mixer

This is what you need.

https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Coaxial-Toslink-Optical-Converter/dp/B001622FL8

Edited to say; never mind the first part. My bad for just going by what you said "digital coaxial input"

The inputs on your amp are Analog, not Digital. You'll need one of these.

https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Optical-Analog-Converter-Adapter/dp/B003OND0N4