(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best smoke detectors & fire alarms

Smoke detectors have a life span of around 10 years. The model you have might have a built in end of life alert, which would result in a chirp code. There might be a manufacture date on the back, if not, then they could be original to the house (when was it built?).

You might be better off replacing them anyway, go with a modern alarm with dual sensors (ion and photo). I just replaced mine with First Alert BRK 3120B detectors (dual sensor, hardwired, interconnected). It was spendy replacing 7 at once, but totally worth it.

edit: product link http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O8MVW44/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

edit2: now would be a good time to check the CO monitor as well. Those also have a limited life span (7-10 years). You should have at minimum one CO detector near bedrooms.

> I'm so glad that smoke detectors have built-in batteries that last 10 years now, no more checking your batteries or looking for a 9V somewhere when it starts beeping.

My local code requires these in all residences, actually.

I'm not opposed to them, but I, uh, may be violating that ordinance in one location so I can get a better alarm. That takes an AA though, so no weird 9V thing.

(The motivation is as follows. Wait, I mean the motivation would be if I were to be violating the ordinance, yes that's it. Anyway, there are two kinds of smoke detectors -- ionization and photoelectric sensors. Each has strengths in terms of what kinds of fires it can detect better than the other; ionization detectors do better when you have a fast burning fire, while photoelectric does better when it sits there smoldering for a while. Both kinds of fires are realistic threats in a home. But you don't have to pick one or the other -- there are dual-sensor alarms that have both. However, you can't, or at least couldn't when I was outfitting my house, get these with a lifetime battery -- only with a normal, replaceable battery, or hard-wired with battery backup. But I'm also somewhat okay about testing them.)

You won't be able to use the same wiring as the work in entirely different ways - the ones you have are monitored by a control panel (24V DC) of some sort, a residential version is entirely independent but can trigger others on an independent high voltage (120V AC) wiring loop through the way it is wired.

I would get something like this to test it. Be sure to get one (like recommended) that doesn't leave a residue - some of the 'most effective' canned smokes available can leave a residue inside the detector and this can cause problems in the long run. It only takes a very small amount (1-second spray) and then wait for it to process and go into alarm state. Also get a can of compressed air to clear the detector out after the test.

If the one is going off outside of your shower then it may be the wrong type (ionization) or may just be getting old and falling outside of its sensitivity range. The one in your photo is photoelectric which is the best choice for this area. Can you show a picture of the box they are connected to?

I may be mistaken, but I believe you can buy a sensor which detects heat or fire but not smoke. This would likely be ideal for your garage.

Normal household smoke detectors pick up particulate matter which is the by-product of combustion, such as vehicle exhaust. They also will pick up dust, like sawdust, and trigger. You'd likely get a few false alarms if you used one of them.

Edit: Yeah, I found some, just as an FYI.

https://www.amazon.com/Kidde-HD135F-Fyrnetics-Hardwire-Detector/dp/B000P4YY8K?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_5

https://www.amazon.com/System-Sensor-5602-Single-Circuit-Mechanical/dp/B0015Q7SZS?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_4

https://www.amazon.com/BRK-Brands-HD6135FB-Hardwire-Battery/dp/B000Q6LXW2?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_1

Smoke detector might give you lots of false alarms based on the nature of how they work and that dust collection isn’t 100%.

You put a smoke detector in there and you will end up taking it out. There are however heat detectors, they can be a set temp or a rate-of-rise type and they don’t care about dust for activation. Just as an example.


Someone smarter than me could probably tell you how you could to integrate it with a raspberry pi and a relay, or maybe even a more simple method??

According to the konnected website you need something like this to make it work

Kidde SM120X Interconnect Accessories Smoke Relay Module https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HQNPOHI/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_-G.LDbNH8PP6K

They were something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WRSTQJM

Like any 3m command strip product YMMV depending on the surface you are trying to mount it on.

They look like this..

Edit: Found some on amazon; but a bit more expensive: Amazon link.

I googled a bit and found this:

https://www.amazon.com/First-Alert-PR700LB-Smoke-Lithium/dp/B019YOPRTG

It's got a different type of sensor than most detectors that doesn't go off for cooking. The reviews even specifically say it solved your issue.

Perhaps you could ask your landlord to switch to units that have these types of sensors?

I have the same concern, so I'm getting:

• Kidde SM120X smoke detector relay ($11)
  
• Kidde i12060 Hardwired Smoke alarm ($11)
  
• Round ceiling box ($2)
  
• Iot Relay ($18)
  
• Misc wires (?)
  
• Total: $42-ish
  
  The smoke detector will be mounted inside the printer's enclosure. The SM120X relay will turn on the Iot Relay box via it's normally closed contacts. The printer and accessories are plugged into the Iot relay. Thereby, if the smoke detector goes off, which should happen pretty quickly given the small enclosed space, power will immediately be cut to the entire printer.
  
  As a phase two, I'm going to add a CO2 suppression system:
  
  
• 5lbs of CO2 ($30)
  
• CO2 Pressure regulator w/ solenoid ($100)
  
• Iot Relay (additional one) ($18)
  
• Misc pipe fittings
  
  I'd plug the solenoid into and additional Iot relay, this time wired to the normally open contacts of the SM120X relay.
  
  In the final system, any smoke would cause the printers power to be shut off and the enclosure filled with CO2. Given the amount of CO2 (~40 cubic feet in a 10 cubic foot enclosure, it would not only smother any actual fire, but cool down the printer significantly.

An HOA can require anything from you. You are going to have to talk to them. Do they really mean hard wired? I would assume (again, check with them) they mean interconnected. You can get interconnected smoke alarms for fairly cheep, even though you already purchased new units. Ask them if the below product will satisfy their request.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PC5S37K/ref=sxts_kp_bs_1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=8778bc68-27e7-403f-8460-de48b6e788fb&pd_rd_wg=yJfrp&pf_rd_r=6XDAZ3AJ6EYTJCSFHKXW&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-top-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B00PC5S37K&pd_rd_w=bgwFr&pf_rd_i=interconnected+smoke+alarm&pd_rd_r=b0a5ec42-c4c2-4e94-9794-1930ddec2644&ie=UTF8&qid=1540924242&sr=1

You are probably better off just using smoke alarm dust covers if you know you will be cooking something smoky. https://www.amazon.com/Kidde-Smoke-Alarm-Paint-6-Pack/dp/B079K34JTG

I use this.
https://www.amazon.com/Kidde-RemoteLync-Monitor-120V-Plug-In/dp/B00Y7OMI0U
When the alarms go off it will shut down ecobee and turn on my lights (wink hub) via IFTTT.
It works great. There are some bad reviews but I have never had any problems.

Looks like this smoke & fire alarm.

You can also replace it with a heat detector alarm. Something like: https://www.amazon.com/Kidde-HD135F-Fyrnetics-Hardwire-Detector/dp/B000P4YY8K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491597928&sr=8-1&keywords=heat+detector+alarm

Smoke in a can? Any hardware store should have some. https://www.amazon.com/UTC-Security-SM200-Smoke-Canned/dp/B0041X4GRK/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=smoke+in+a+can&qid=1574879997&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFQUkNFMU5QMjRKQ1ImZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA1NTAzNTVKMjVQTk1BSkdWOE4mZW5jcnlwdGVkQWRJZD1BMDE5MzYyOTNDU1oxVlZROTdXNTgmd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl

https://www.amazon.com/Kidde-SM120X-Detector-Hardwired-I-Combo/dp/B00XWD8AHM/

Here's one (non affiliate link):

https://www.amazon.com/First-Alert-BRK-SL177-Hearing-Impaired/dp/B001U0ONAW

unicorn. and Nest isn't the answer for everyone.

You can use hardwired Kidde CO and Smoke detectors with relays wired to z-wave sensors (or esp866, arduinno, raspberrypi, etc)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LDDVAW/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HQNPOHI/

the zwave sensor commonly used is:
https://www.amazon.com/Z-Wave-Magnets-Window-Sensor-DWZWAVE2-5-ECO/dp/B01N5HB4U5/

except that...

http://www.amazon.com/Kidde-i9030-FyreWatch-Battery-Operated-Smoke/dp/B0006BKH3I

If you already have wired smoke detectors that are interconnected, you could use a kidde relay wired to a door sensor or dry contact sensor.

Kidde SM120X Interconnect... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HQNPOHI?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

The guide I followed to set it up: https://community.smartthings.com/t/integrating-kidde-smoke-co-sensors-into-smartthings-properly/53641

I purchased my house in Dec 2014 in Northern Virginia and promptly replaced all the smoke detectors with the ones from Costco, and not 3 months later did I return them. Total crap. Behaved the exact same way you are experiencing.

I called my county Fire Marshal and asked her if the county had some kind of suggested list, or discount on purchasing through them, etc. No, nothing, they cannot make any specific suggestions.

That being said, she told me that some Fire Marshal Association that she is part of suggests that you buy a detector that has dual Photoelectric and ionization sensors. I asked her what she put in her house and she told me the Kidde PI2010, but again, she could not make any suggestions...hint-hint, wink-wink.

I also have a Nest Protect on my main level, with the eventual goal of putting one on each level (basement, main, and upper).

You’re right. I saw that center part and I looked it up. Kidde makes strobing smoke detectors (most likely for the hard of hearing) and here it is: Kidde P4010ACLEDS-2 Smoke Alarm

Modern smoke alarms have extra sensors that should be able to detect the different types of smoke and not go off needlessly.

I have an active, tested working smoke detector not even 10ft from my stove and it doesnt go off ever from cooking smoke. Here it is in a 2 pack:

https://www.amazon.com/First-Alert-Micro-Photoelectric-Smoke/dp/B00HDKRP9O

Maybe just modernize your smoke alarm.

There are smoke alarms that flash. I wear CI and have these

https://www.amazon.com/BRK-7010BSL-Photoelectric-Integrated-Strobe/dp/B0064S9NAU/ref=sr_1_32?keywords=Flashing+smoke+alarms&qid=1572350697&sr=8-32

Found it. Smoke Alarm.

I use these not sure if you can silence from one that isn't sounding but it's wireless interconnected.

Kidde 21026044 Wireless Interconnect Battery Operated Smoke Detector Alarm | |, Model RF-SM-DC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PC5S37K/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_bvxMDbB2933XS

All that needs to be done with interconnected smoke alarms is to attach a relay (kiddie) and then a dry contact sensor to interface to the hub. No reason to spend six hundred dollars of 5 nest units.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HQNPOHI

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N5HB4U5

I replaced the smoke detector in my kitchen with a Kidde Heat Detector.

Kidde HD135F

No more alarms when baking or cooking.

No it's a microphone that listens for any alarm sound, it's not attached to or physically connected.
Kidde RemoteLync Monitor 120V Plug-In https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Y7OMI0U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_rg2oxbNHBT5B7

You can buy smoke in a can .
Arduino engineers hate him/her due to this one small trick......

Consider getting a temperature alarm in the kitchen - rather than a smoke alarm.

EDIT: "Heat Detector" is the proper word.

https://www.amazon.com/Kidde-HD135F-Fyrnetics-Hardwire-Detector/dp/B000P4YY8K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467053527&sr=8-1&keywords=heat+detector

Nothing yet, haven't completed the build, but I got 2 flame-activated stove-hood extinguisher cans. It will make a right mess of the printer if it ever triggers, but they were cheap and are effective. I am also going to build an ardino electronic flame detector, hack on a $20 smoke alarm and have both the ardino and octopi capable of killing the power to the printer via a 110v relay board if they receive an adverse sensory input.

Edit:

Flame sensor: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AFSEC2Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Firestop cans: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FL6VU3Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Relay module: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0057OC5O8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Dual sensor smoke alarm: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O8MVW0S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1