Lots of others have mentioned great projects, so let me give you a general overview of what you should know, and then you can tackle just about anything.

For every project:

• Watch youtube videos for whatever you want to do until you're pretty comfortable. Make sure the person looks professional. "This old house" is a great resource.
  
• ALWAYS take off jewelry and things like wallet chains. Wedding bands are especially notorious for electrical accidents or something awful called "Degloving." Google if you want to be horrified or have an iron stomach when looking at gore.
  
• Most projects are "Safe" if you know how to disengage and engage the shutoffs and what to watch out for.
  
• Assume whatever you're using is going to spread everywhere (sawdust) or get on things you'd never expect (spray foam on the nice rug 10' away). So cover them or move them.
  
  Electrical:
  
  
• Buy a non-contact voltage tester. It'll tell you if you're about to shock yourself or not. Check it every time you walk away and come back. I also put masking tape over breakers I'm working on just in case somebody walks by and decides it needs to be flipped.
  
• Always work with your right hand only (even if you're left handed). This is to keep a shock from traveling through your heart, which is on your left side of the body. Don't work on a wet/damp surface. Wear thick wool socks and shoes or boots with lots of rubber left on them.
  
  Plumbing:
  
  
• find your whole-house water shutoff, and the shutoffs (if they're there) for the sink or wherever else you're working.
  
• Also, if you do anything with compression fittings, under-tighten them (never over-tighten). Turn the water on (just a bit) and if it's dripping, do a quarter turn and wipe dry with a towel. Repeat until it's no longer dripping. If you overtighten them, they'll leak and you can't undo it without replacing the fitting. It took me 5 trips to Home Depot to learn this...
  
  General:
  
  
• Never climb a ladder without somebody else around. Always take the time to go down it, if you have to fiddle with changing drillbits or something, or have the helper-person take care of it (and hold the ladder when needed). It doesn't matter how good your ladder is, if you're pushing against a wall with a drill, you can easily destabilize yourself.
  
• Buy a deadman's switch that plugs in like an extension cord, and swap it to any saw or cutting device you are using (even the dremel). Alternatively, spend a few more bucks and get a variable speed foot pedal.
  
• Don't do anything you don't feel like you "know" enough to do, yet.
  
• Learn how blades buckle in saws, and about kickback, before using power saws.
  
• Use a GOOD stud detector before going into the wall. If you hit something hard and you aren't sure what it is, back the drill out and take a look. You could be hitting a water pipe, an electrical cable, or are just unlucky and hit a nail in the stud.
  
• Use goggles and hearing protection. Your ears don't feel pain. Power tools are louder and more damaging than they sound like.
  
• Working with chemicals? Use a gas mask (I like a full painter's mask that incorporates eye protection, because they don't fog like goggles can with a mask on).
  
• Working with dust, use a dust mask or gas mask.
  
• If you have gas mask, you have to seal the cartridges or they go bad fast.
  
• Go to Walmart (because it's much cheaper) and buy a gallon of their solvents before working with chemicals. Know which solvent works on what. Buy low VOC mineral spirits (if available), and acetone. Mineral spirits is going to be for exterior/oil paints, shellacs, and stains. Acetone is going to be for spray foam, certain adhesives, etc. Get an empty tin can with a lid for storing the "used solvent." Btw, I reuse my solvent several times, basically as a "prewash." The sediment falls to the bottom.
  
• If you're working with something creating sparks (angle grinder) be aware of where those sparks are flying, have a nearby fire extinguisher, and if you can, dampen the area first (like mop your garage floor). Angle grinders combined with dust, sawdust, and/or scrap wood has started fires.
  
• If working with oil based products/mineral spirits, learn how to properly dispose of things like brushes and rags, they can spontaneously combust if left in a heap!
  
• Be aware that on high-end drills, there's a button that can lock them into "always on" mode.
  
  Tool List
  
  
• Non-contact voltage tester (and other useful items)
  
• 3M Full Face Gas Mask There's cheaper chinese knockoffs. You have to buy cartridges (get a set for dust and at least one set for VOC - aka gasses like mineral spirits and ammonia)
  
• Variable Speed Foot Pedal Can be used like a deadmans switch by fully depressing.
  
• Water/leak alarms for peace of mind or sudden failures
  
• Stud finder with live AC and metal detection
  
• Hearing Protection
  
• Goggles (observe where the vents are and if it looks like dust can easily fall into them) or just use the face mask
  
• Acetone
  
• Mineral Spirits
  
• Metal, lidded, disposal bucket. A paint bucket with a lid also works. Note that paint buckets are a different kind of plastic specifically made to resist solvents.
  
• A large pack of disposable gloves (make sure they aren't something you or a helper are allergic to, eg latex).
  
• Inspection Camera
  
  Projects to avoid as a beginner
  
  
• Major reconstruction (wall removal)
  
• Retaining walls over 1' tall
  
• HVAC
  
• Tile
  
• Traditional wood plank flooring (BUT engineered/click-lock is super easy)
  
• Plumbing that isn't compression fittings or threaded (aka, plex/sharkbite/welding)
  
• Anything on the roof
  
• Anything attached to the outside of your home (where you might inadvertently create leaks or rot in your exterior walls)
  
• Precise woodworking (altering your cabinets in your kitchen)
  
  Projects I'd always recommend hiring out
  
  
• Tile with real stone, metal or glass
  
• Granite anything
  
• Decks (probably, although make sure the deck builder knows how to properly attach to a house. 70% of decks in the USA aren't and are causing rot and damage)
  
• Structural engineering (wall removal/additions, tall retaining walls)
  
• Most HVAC
  
• Solid wood plank floor or refinishing. (Refinishing is possible, it's just a good 10 hours of work per 50 sqft, or more, super dusty, and makes the house pretty unlivable. Easy to screw up. Best to get an experienced pro in to do it quickly).
  
• Anything near your "mains" that feed into your breaker-box (the part coming from the electrical company). Such as replacing the breaker box itself.
  
  Home improvement is very satisfying and not all that hard. Most people have a story of being lazy once or twice and having a near accident. I've been shocked by 120v (like in your wall)... twice. I've had saw blades break. Just be safe for that 5% of the time you're using something dangerous, and never get too lazy to grab the safety gear.

Oh I agree from the user's perspective Open-Source is preferable; but in the real world the choice is not mine to make -- it depends on what the (a) hardware manufacturers decide to sell and (b) what the MD/MBA in charge decides to buy (and freedom to modify/maintain in house ten years from now is usually not high on their priority list).

And then again, if the use scenario needs regulatory approval; e.g., as a medical device, you can't use an open-source version. At best, there's an open-source version as well as an FDA approved version like with Osirix.

Personally, I'm in /r/linux and haven't used windows outside of a VM (needed for very specific purposes) on any of my machines since ~win98, and strongly prefer open-source to closed source.

(And one of the few reasons to boot up a win VM is to interact with hardware. I have a USB temperature logger to log the temperature in my apartment (e.g., for proof for the landlord) and couldn't find any at the time that said they supported linux (and the one I bought only came with windows software). Sure I could try getting it to work in wine or natively, and probably would only take a few hours or days. But for the handful of times I've used it, its easier just to boot a VM where I could install the included software from a disk, versus figuring out how to set the thing or get it working under wine.

Two thoughts on this:

1. GTD is worth implementing; it's hard to setup, but easy to run
   
2. Use plugins for GTD
   
   I love GTD because it helps me stay on top of 100% of everything. However, for people like you & me, who are what I call "naturally disorganized" (haha), we need some extra help, which is where the concept of plugins (note: that's not GTD "canon") comes in. Everyone has a core set of may be 20 or 30 things they have to deal with in their life...finances, food, house cleaning, car maintenance, personal hygiene, laundry, etc. Most people get by & can just push through the annoyances, but for those of us who struggle with organization, it's an extra challenge that requires a different management approach that what we do by default (simply because we're not getting the results we want by doing what we're currently doing).
   
   The example I always reference is laundry. Have you ever struggled with the following?
   
   

• Having laundry on the floor
  
• Having piles of laundry
  
• "Laundry days" where you spend all days doing laundry
  
• Running out of laundry supplies when you need them
  
• Forgetting to switch the laundry in the washer to the dryer (and then having stinky clothes & having to re-run them)
  
• Forgetting to take the laundry out of the dryer (and then getting wrinkled clothes)
  
• Having to wear the same clothes again because you don't have any clean laundry available
  
• Having a limited selection of clothing because you need to go shopping for more, but haven't
  
  GTD is great for capturing tasks, defining next-action steps that you can take, and managing reminders of those tasks so that they actually get done & not forgotten about. However, then you end up with a very reactive system instead of a proactive system when it comes to the recurring parts of your life, like doing the laundry or managing your finances, which for me, made me feel like I had a never-ending list of stuff to do. So let's flip the script & create a system plugin for laundry! If we think about what is required to manage laundry to the point where we've got it defined from A to Z & can stop thinking about it, there are a handful of things required for us to manage.
  
  System overview:
  
  

1. System setup
   
2. System maintenance
   
3. Laundry supplies
   
4. Laundry cleaning schedule
   
5. Wardrobe management
   
   1 - System setup:
   
   Logic:
   
   
6. We need a washer & dryer to clean the laundry, plus we need cleaning supplies
   
7. We need hangers & a chest of drawers to store clean laundry in
   
8. We need baskets to store dirty laundry in & move the laundry around
   
   Actions:
   
   
9. Purchase & install a rack (or select an existing location) to store cleaning supplies
   
10. Purchase & install washing machine
    
11. Print washing machine operational checklist & tape above washing machine (i.e. clean out clothing pockets, what settings to use on the machine, add in a gel packet, add fabric softener, and set your smartphone alarm for 60 minutes, or however long your machine takes to run, to remind you to swap the laundry)
    
12. Purchase & install standalone water leak detector (optional, integrate with a smarthome system for alerts; the water line to my washing machine leaked once & flooded my basement, it was awful!)
    
13. Purchase & install drying machine
    
14. Print drying machine operational checklist & tape above washing machine (i.e. clean out lint trap before use, add in a dryer sheet, set timer alarm on phone to remind you to take the clothes out, and check to see if trash needs to be taken out)
    
15. Purchase two extra lint traps for drying machine (the dryer won't last forever, but the lint traps break from time to time & then you have to hunt them down, so having a couple spares should last you for the life of the machine, or at least give you some buffer time to order more spares) & store with laundry supplies
    
16. Purchase & install hangers for your closet (for hanging clean clothes)
    
17. Purchase & install chest of drawers (for storing folded clean clothes)
    
18. Purchase & install the appropriate number of laundry hampers (I have one for white clothes, dark clothes, and towels/hand towels/rags/misc.)
    
19. Purchase & install a plastic laundry basket (for shuttling dirty laundry to the washing machine & taking clean laundry from the dryer to the folder & hanging area - I keep this in front of the dryer & then grab it to put the dirty laundry from my hamper into & then take that to the washing machine)
    
20. Purchase & install plastic bin under bed (or in closet in bedroom) for spare set of bedding (so you can change your bedding weekly, instantly make your bed again, and rotate through a second set)
    
21. Select a place to fold & hang your laundry (your bed, or a table in the laundry room, or on the couch while watching TV, whatever)
    
22. Purchase & install trash can (for lint, for things found in pockets before putting clothes in washing machine, for empty laundry cleaning containers, etc.)
    
    2 - System maintenance:
    
    Logic:
    
    
23. We need to clean & maintain the machines on a regular basis
    
    Actions:
    
    
24. Calendar entry: Clean washing machine monthly (inside & outside, using Chlorox wipes)
    
25. Calendar entry: Clean drying machine monthly (outside wipe-down, using Chrolox wipes)
    
26. Calendar entry: Clean dryer vent twice a year
    
27. Calendar entry; Recurring reminder every 6 months to refill
    
28. Calendar entry: Recurring reminder once a year to re-order a box of trash bags
    
29. Calendar entry: Re-order batteries for water leak detector
    
30. Calendar entry: Replace water leak detector battery every 6 months (as preventative maintenance)
    
    part 1/2

A couple emergency and safety notes:

For everyone, do a massive favor for yourself and your property and buy one of these water / leak alarms, they’re cheap and also come in battery powered cute versions. If you spring a leak, this alarm will go off and you could potentially save your livestock, filters, pumps, heater, and of course your flooring and subfloor for just $15.

For those of us with injected CO2:

Any time you make a CO2 adjustment, be home and check in on your tank. It sounds excessive, but it’s pretty easy to just turn it up when you are watching TV on a weekend instead of off at work or school. Furthermore, if you are playing with your pH or kH, it is a good idea to do the same as this can effectively increase the amount of CO2 in the water.

Lastly, I am no expert, but I have found that increasing oxygen levels can be very beneficial. I’m still doing my research but it seems there is an overemphasis on keeping water agitation down. Plants and fish need oxygen. Putting a small airstone or having a HOB filter is not the end of the world – CO2 and O2 do not compete for space in water and now that I’m gaining more experience, seems to be beneficial as I’ve found it can keep the fish from getting gassed as the agitation will off gas excess CO2 and keep any scum from forming and suffocating the tank. If your solenoid or regulator fails or you get end of tank dump (all things which are fairly common), an airstone or surface agitation may be the only thing left to off gas that additional CO2 and save your fish.

A helpful video

The safe has a small hole in the back covered by drywall for an outlet kit. The kit allows for ethernet and there outlets inside the safe: LIBERTY SAFE & SECURITY PROD 11015 Safe Power Out Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KRJTJ0G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_dW-KBb6ZC3RMD

Here you go:

Main 1/2hp Pump
I initially had a Zoeller main pump which lasted for about 8 years until the "built-in" float switch died. I could have bought a new switch for it but the pump itself was old and I didn't want to risk it. I read reviews for the new Zoellers, Rigids, and Waynes and decided on the Wayne pump.

Backup Unit
I originally had a Watchdog unit which was 7 yrs old... I went with the Wayne backup based off of Amazon reviews when compared to others. The system includes a great backup pump compared to the crappy Watchdog unit.

Battery
Sorry, the battery was $139 shipped (not $100 as I mentioned). It's a sealed battery as well = no maintenance.

High Water Alarm I bought this inexpensive water sensor which comes with a ~6ft wire sensor

Check Valve: I also stayed away from the metal check valves because my old Zoeller check valve literally rusted apart from what I guess was from the humidity (my sump pump is located in a narrow closet). I went with a fully plastic/rubber one that my house flipping friend got from a plumbing supply store. I have the battery unit outside the closet because of this humidity build up.

Question
Which dedicated float switch are you using? One with a "rod"? Do you plan on using zip ties to hold the switch in the up/on position on your new pump?

Let me know if you have any questions. Good luck.

Not smartthings integrated but i got one of these and it works great.

Automatic Laundry Water Leak... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0742N3KHF?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I'm sure you could work some clever way to make it talk to smartthings (open close sensor triggered by the buzzer) but it works pretty well as is. Came home and found it in alarm, water shut off and a very small puddle directly under the machine, never even made it to the walls.

I am sure it will be fine. Fridges generally don't have many issues. I would recommend you buy a water alarm and put it behind the fridge before sliding it in. $12 at Amazon and they last as long as the battery, so ... what ... 10 years? These have saved me at least twice - once for my water heater, and once for my kids taking a very boisterous bath!

The washer/dryer combo we have has been rock solid. No issues whatsoever. The last set we bought in 2009 but left with our old house (stupid us!) and is still going strong, and we have a new set from 2015 which is also just fine.

If you have extra money to spend, check out the KitchenAide combo microwave/convection oven. It's $700, but also includes a real oven. It's awesome if you bake a lot. It is very small, so perfect for little dishes, and it heats up twice as fast as a full sized oven so it uses a lot less power. Since it's convection, it cooks faster too, so you can usually knock about 10% off cook times. I don't know how we lived without it!

Smart Thermostat: I use the Honeywell Z-Wave thermostat (as my smart home is "mostly" Z-Wave). I considered Ecobee (I hate Nest), but went with this as I don't really need a "learning" thermostat...do this temperature when I am home, do that one when I am not home.

Sprinkler control: Rachio (Amazon Link) - best sprinkler controller I have ever had...depending on where you live, you might even get a rebate on your water due to the water savings this has.

Smart Door Lock: Kwikset (Amazon Link) - again Z-Wave as I use Z-Wave. A cool thing about this lock is that you can re-key it yourself.

Temperature Sensor: SmartThings Motion Sensor (Amazon Link) - it reports temperature, and it's ZigBee

Leak Sensor: Samsung SmartThings Leak Sensor (Amazon Link) - it's ZigBee, but I have built out a smaller ZigBee network too.

Garage Door Opener: GoControl (Amazon Link) - again Z-Wave.

​

Multi-Purpose Sensor: SmartThings (Amazon Link) - Open/Close, Temperature, Vibration: I have one of these on each my closet doors (when I open the door, the closet light turns on...when I close the door the light turns off). I also have one on my Gun Safe (so I get notified if my gun safe door is open...also get vibration notifications if it's being tampered with)

The temperature/motion sensor is a nice combination. For example, I have one of these outside on my lanai. When it detects motion, it turns the fans on...but only if the temperature is over 74 F). I have a few of these inside that turn on small table lamps at night when motion is detected (versus large/bright lights) because the night is dark, and full of terrors.

​

Don't know if you have a pool, but I use iAqualink as my pool controller. It has it's own app, and now integrates with Alexa (doesn't integrate with SmartThings yet). But it's nice being able to turn on the spa and spa heater while out for dinner, and having it be up to temperature by the time you get home.

​

Oh - and check out Sonos for whole house audio. I SOOOOOOOOO love my Sonos speakers.

Moisture sensors are pretty common, you should be able to find one that fits your water needs just fine. I use this one in my sump crock to detect high water, but it would work just as well to detect low water.

As for low food, I think /u/Hilbe has a pretty good idea.

EDIT: actually, Hilbe's idea would probably be best for both situations... and the cheapest, here are some contact sensors for $10, and they include a temperature sensor so you could monitor the temp in the coop too. $20, a couple pieces of scrap wood and a few stones and you are set.

Sure don't know if links are legal on this sub, but here is one on Amazon. Not 100% sure how amazing it is but the reviews have it pretty well:

https://www.amazon.com/Testing-Analysis-Expert-Consultation-included/dp/B016YSY8XQ

YAY! :D let me think.... I'll add things to this post as I think of them.

Bed Caddy

Bed Risers

Hamper

This Book (my cousin got it for me when I started college way back when, and it really has a lot of good advice)

Storage

Dry Erase Calendar

Small Room Safe

Dorm Security

Command Strips

This amazing food/beverage station

A freaking PURPLE fridge

Brita

Make pooping in a shared bathroom less embarrassing

This photo display

An electric kettle

Also a planner! I like to make my own and use different colored pens to differentiate between my classes! If you want the template I use for my planner, I can send you a link to it! :D

Warning: stream of conciousness follows. I tried to re-organize it a bit..

• Designate a spot in the house for your equipment center. (EC) Get a Rack, and just focus on rack-mount gear.
  
• Run a FUCKLOAD of power to the EC. I'm talking like at LEAST 100A sub-panel. Branch off circuits from that as needed.
  
• Look into a UPS for the EC to keep everything purring along even in case of power burps.
  
• Whole house standby generator?
  
• Conduit from the EC to all the rooms, attic, garage. Multiple strings in it for pulling future cabling
  
• Run CAT6 and Coax from the EC to all the rooms, maybe multiple walls, closet too.
  
• Run multiple strands of Coax from an outside box to your EC, don't like the local Cable company fuck with it, just connect to it.)
  
• Maybe even fiber, or at least some conduit for it..
  
• Coax Splitter/Distribution in the EC
  
• If you're feelin' froggy, run Fiber from the EC to where you expect your computer will be.
  
• Get POE cameras installed while it's easy, run 'em to the EC. Get a POE Switch.
  
• Get an appropriate number of WAPs installed, have them run multiple pieces of CAT, power, maybe even Fiber in an attempt to future proof yourself.
  
• Pick up a Used Dell R710, and use it to virtualize things like a router, NVR for the cameras, brain for the home automation(Homeseer?), WAPS, Home theater, etc..
  
• Rather than central heating, maybe look into sub-floor heating? Each room could be adjusted as desired then.
  
• Install ceiling fans with TWO switches in a Double-gang. One for light, one for Fan. Zwave!
  
• Whole house fan?
  
• Have the electricians install all the Z-wave fixtures, so they use appropriately sized wall boxes. "Normal" ones are a snug fit.
  
• Z-wave outlets too?
  
• Get little "medicine cabinet" type boxes installed in each room with CAT and power, for intercom, distributed entertainment systems, etc.
  
• In-ceiling speakers all over the fuckin' place, with per-room controls for aforementioned intercom, entertainment, etc.
  
• LED Step/Stair lighting, bonus points for Billie Jean
  
• Sprinkler System w/ OpenSprinkler
  
• Look into the in-window shades. Who wants to dust shit? Pretty sure they have mechanisms to control them too.
  
• Run a fuckload of power to the garage as well. I have a single outlet in mine.. It fucking sucks.
  
• Look into getting your Home Theater "brains" in the EC as well?
  
• PROJECTOR! ATMOS! BUZZWORDS!
  
• Acoustically Transparent screens are your friends. Hide those speakers!
  
• Run the speaker cabling for a full Atmos setup, even if you're not going to be that insane (yet)
  
• If you get a projector, have them run the cabling up the center from the screen, and leave slack. That way, when you get a different projector and need to adjust the distance, it's not quite so heart-breaking. Conduit, of course.
  
• Irrigation system / OpenSprinkler (Homeseer can talk to it)
  
• I love the idea of a "wet room" bathroom. Simplifies some things, complicates others.
  
• Zwave water leak sensors installed under the toilets by the gasket so you can catch problems quickly. The cable is a LOT longer than that photo appears.
  
• Zwave water valves, kill flow remotely/automatically
  
• "centralized" plumbing, where everything is a home run (probably to the EC), rather than a maze of pipes throughout the house
  
• Tankless heaters near the faucets instead of a main one?
  
• Have your doorbell cabling run to the EC, and then branch it from there to any bells. Chasing wires suck.
  
• Tesla solar roof?
  

I went with these. I don't know enough to compare different types, but I can say for sure that metal contacts are extremely sensitive to water and since I bought them two years ago they've given me an early heads up about leaks on 4 occasions, easily the best cost:payoff investment I've made as a homeowner.

Didn't see the last post, but here is what I bought awhile back for $30:

Amazon: La Crosse Alerts Mobile 926-25101-GP Wireless Monitor System Set with Dry Probe

Save a little bit buying that and 2 of these: La Crosse Alerts Mobile 926-25000-BP Wireless Monitor Add-On Sensor Only for existing La Crosse Alerts Mobile System

Works great, haven't had any problems with it for 8 months or so. Very useful in the summer where I am..

Haha, thanks. Just bugs me that I went through all the trouble of putting in a pit, pump, plumbed it and of course had to run power and it's been dry since.

I used Aeotec gear for this one. Battery life on the water sensor is pretty solid, works well and it's quick to update. The switch is pretty configurable.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007UZH7B8/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1457995487&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=zwave+energy+switch

And
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00H3TJ3P4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1457995529&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=zwave+water+sensor&dpPl=1&dpID=31r46cr5%2BUL&ref=plSrch

Thanks! I'm going to try to get an estimate on installing the pan. For the shut-off valve, any recommendations?

I've hear a lot about the Watts IntelliFlow, but it looks like it has pretty poor reviews on Amazon. Also saw this one, which seems to have better reviews (though I'm always skeptical).

Lacrosse alerts system. I absolutely love it. Wifi connected and mobile friendly site allows for remote monitoring, plus available wet sensor add on, although I just use a dry probe for on the plants and the base for ambient. I also have text and email alerts if the temps spike above 95 or drop below 55. Also allows for excel export if you're really a data geek (like I am!). Highly recommend.

Link: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0081UR76G?pc_redir=1398458223&robot_redir=1

I would have the apartment tested for toxic mold. You can call a pro or do it yourself with an ERMI test. I found one on amazon that has 4.5 stars out of 420 reviews. Someone recommended this test over others because it uses dust and surface samples opposed to air samples which can give false negatives. Cost is 45 bucks which is probably the most cost efficient way to go.

Here’s a link to buy the kit - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016YSY8XQ/ref=sxts_kp_bs_tr_1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=8778bc68-27e7-403f-8460-de48b6e788fb&pd_rd_wg=slVlt&pf_rd_r=2B0R8JTHPXTSEJ13NTZP&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-top-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B016YSY8XQ&pd_rd_w=wQUrP&pf_rd_i=ermi+mold+test&pd_rd_r=c8c2d340-d1de-4e30-98c8-1a8d727b912c&ie=UTF8&qid=1540914560&sr=1

Here’s some random literature about toxic mold in general - https://home.howstuffworks.com/home-improvement/household-safety/how-to-test-for-toxic-mold.htm

Good luck.

It's an older Liberty Fatboy. They've since updated their locking mechanism, the newer models are a bit nicer.

I have their outlet kit and an electric dehumidifier plugged in in addition to those lights.

That dehumidifier has been awesome. I have two silica canisters in there than you can "recharge" by baking them in an oven and they have yet needed to recharge after installing that dehumidifier.

If you know where the water would leak to and that area is normally dry, you could use a product like leakfrog
https://www.amazon.com/Leak-Frog-LF001-Water-Alarm/dp/B000WMSTUO

This amazon link is for reference only. They SHOULD be much cheaper (or a similar product anyway). Woot.com used to sell them in a 2pk for $5 during wootoffs years ago. perhaps their popularity has resulted in demand >>> supply.

curious though...is a rainwater collection system on that scale common where you live? do you have a writeup somewhere about your setup? Would love to read it.

Buy this: https://www.amazon.com/Glentronics-Inc-BWD-HWA-Basement-Watchdog/dp/B000JOK11K/ref=sr_1_4

And maybe next time you will get there in time to just clean up 1 gallon instead of 20. Super cheap and could potentially save you tons of money and headache.

I don’t want anyone to think I’m making money off it or anything. But it’s the AirThings monitor from amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Corentium-Detector-Airthings-223-Lightweight/dp/B00H2VOSP8

It’s not cheap but I feel better having it set up in my daughters’ bedroom and “knowing”. I also hope that I’ll be able to confirm my radon fan is working as the levels should drop down to less than the outdoor average of 0.4 (or so I’ve about others on /r/homeimprovement).

i have waterbug alarms as part of a smartthings setup. they also monitor temp and humidity. basement near water tank, under sinks, etc.

check status & get alerts from smartthings & community apps. combine with a siren for audible alerts at home (in addition to any push notifications, or any other notification type you configure).

can't say it's objectively the best -- ymmv with smartthings, but i've had a great experience.

That logic isn't wrong, but there's also the inconvenience of mucking with the water cutoff twice daily and the cutoffs aren't normally designed to be used that often -- eventually they will wear out and may start leaking on their own.

(That said, something leaking out in your yard is rarely a major concern, but it does waste water and may cost you money (depending on which side of the meter it's on.)

Even if you don't take this advice about shutting off the main when you're out of town, it's not a bad idea to know where the cutoff is and be sure that you know how to turn it off -- if a pipe bursts while you are home, you'll want to already know how to turn off the water rather than be trying to figure it out.

Also, water detection alarms like the Leakfrog (often on sale at woot for a lot less!) in key places can be quite useful, and you can also tie water detectors into alarm systems to call for help even if you're not home.

> just get testing done once or twice a year when we test the well water.

Radon is usually highest in winter. I hope you're testing then. Alternatively, get one of these. I'm happy with mine.

I have an old generation Aeotec water sensor I bought off Amazon a couple years ago, and it works perfectly with my Abode security system.

Any idea if this new one is compatible?

Haha, I love this idea. I'm going to have to go look for these things now. Any idea what they're called?

edit: found one! https://www.amazon.com/Glentronics-Inc-BWD-HWA-Basement-Watchdog/dp/B000JOK11K

I just ordered this one, but it hasn’t arrived yet: MOTOROLA Cellular-Connected MultiSensor Reports Temperature, Humidity, Water leaks, Acceleration/Earthquakes, Light Level, Power Loss, Model MC4000 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07LB7Z49D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ilIvDb01MA5PJ

From reading up on a lot of different options this one seems like the most “no frills” with the best reviews. Ask me next week and I’ll report on how it works in my van.

1. https://www.amazon.com/Ecolink-Intelligent-Technology-Z-Wave-DWZWAVE2-ECO/dp/B00HPIYJWU/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1479555866&sr=1-1&keywords=zwave+window+sensor
   
   
2. https://www.amazon.com/Everspring-Z-Wave-Water-Flood-Sensor/dp/B006TG9W4Y/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1479555890&sr=1-1&keywords=water+leak+zwave
   
   
3. Same sensor as one, just seal it with silicone
   
   
4. It's natively supported by ST.
   
   
5. Personal opinion, throwing it out before it gets the best of you.

You could do things like you're planning but I would add in a water-valve to cut the water in addition to the power (you want to cut both so the washer doesn't run while it's dry). I would also use Home Assistant instead of IFTTT, since it will be faster and won't rely on your internet being up to work. If you go with ZWave device, you'll need some kind of hub, which Home Assistant can act as (with a ZWave USB stick).

However, unless you want to tie this particular issue into a large home automation system (getting text messages when the leak sensor is triggered for example), you might be better off with something like this, which is an all-in-one system for exactly your use-case: https://www.amazon.com/Automatic-Detector-Shut-Off-Stopping-Detection/dp/B0742N3KHF/

Personally, I'd go with that kit, otherwise you're looking at:

• $60+ - Raspberry Pi for Home Assistant
  
• $45 - ZWave USB Stick
  
• $100 - ZWave Water Valve
  
• $90 - ZWave Heavy Duty Switch
  
• $30+ - ZWave Water Sensor
  
  That's already 3x the cost of the kit, not including your time to learn what you need to in order to get HA running & doing what you want it to.

Oh hey, I just figured a solution to this!

This monitor is $100 and then $5/month and sends temp updates up to every 20 minutes. Seems to have good reviews and the cheapest solution as far as I can tell.

Unless you're hella rich (or being targeted by corrupt cops), this doesn't happen in real life.

Most home "gun safes" (Residential Security Containers) have a power pass-through that can also fit an Ethernet cable, and a low-wattage NVR could be run inside the "safe". Some new models even come with a built-in USB or even Ethernet pass-through connector.

It's time to start watching out for your stuff.

First, get a cheap fireproof safe. This one is pretty good quality and won't get opened easily. You may need something bigger. Try a second-hand store and ask for lockboxes and fire safes.

Next, make sure you can find your safe if someone steals the whole thing. Also, bicycle chain lock it to something solid.

Then keep your room safe. Buy a lock for the door when you're not there, and get a room alarm for when you ARE there and someone thinks they can sneak in on you.

Last, find a good hiding place for your stuff - even if you have to make one.

Find a place where you can hide your safe where people don't think to look. Does your house have wood floors & carpet? Time to pull up a corner and see if you can loosen (or saw through) a floorboard.

Don't be shy about be shy about modifying your room to get a hidden area!

These ones are simple and designed to float so they keep beeping as water continues to flow:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002Q8GRPG

If you have an ADT security system (and maybe others) you can also talk to your installer about adding a water sensor that will be monitored too, which is great if you have a vacation property that is often vacant.

I have the Aeotec Water sensor

Apparently it doesn't send binary reports as a default, which is what HA needs to see changes. So i had to add it using Open Zeave Control Pannel, then while it was in the adding stage, I had to very quickly change the "report type to send" from 255 to 17. This allowed HA to see the changes immediately. Its a quirk of zwave battery devices. They only send updates every so often, and each company sets that differently. The awake time on these (when they communicate) is something like 20 seconds. So any configuration changes have to be sent and received within that time period.


This new device Im trying to resolve Does have a binary sensor, but HA is not seeing the state change in it. So Im not sure what Im missing.

Most zwave sensors are battery powered. Actually, I haven't seen wired door/window sensors outside of proprietary security systems, though I'm sure there's something out there.

This Wink Essentials Kit will work with any zwave hub, and is pretty much the best bang-for-the-buck for zwave sensors right now. I have three of them on my OpenHAB setup, and haven't had any problems.

For a water sensor, I've been keeping an eye on the Aeotec Water Sensor but I haven't purchased one yet.

Everything I've linked is battery powered.

Not from Monoprice, but these guys are pretty solid: https://smile.amazon.com/Aeotec-Water-Sensor-Z-Wave-Flood/dp/B00H3TJ3P4/

This radon detector, Corentium home by Airthings Radon Gas Detector, is suppose to be the best consumer grade detector device sold on Amazon. They occasionally go on sale. I've bought it for $180 a month ago. Check it out if you don't want to wait for the screening kit.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00H30TLPA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Looking closer at your sensor I'm not surprised. It looks like it is designed to trigger when it is damp, not just submerged.

You might try something like this. It should alert only when the prongs are submerged.

https://www.amazon.com/Leak-Frog-LF001-Water-Alarm/dp/B000WMSTUO

I got a bunch of these off of Woot.com before Amazon bought them. Love them. Put them under every sink in the house and near the furnace/ac

The true cost of this thing includes paying for a plumber to install it, unless you can turn off the water mains from the city/county and are comfortable cutting open the main supply pipe to your house. There are z-wave alternatives that are substantially cheaper and do not require a plumber - for example this one. This controller (and there are others very similar to it) mount on a levered ball valve on the outside and have a z-wave controlled motor that moves the lever between open and closed positions. When paired with Aeotec flood sensors, you can assemble a system that's much cheaper than the Leaksmart at the discounted price and does the same job.

hmm.

driveways in front? sloping towards the building or away?

trying to figure out where all your extra water may be coming from.

6' isn't the worst if you end up figuring out you need to do some excavation to seal the outside of the basement wall. hopefully it won't come to that. it could be that a storm drain got all clogged and you had a freakish amount of extra water that couldn't drain.

you can get a water bug to alert you if it happens again.

https://www.amazon.com/Detector-detects-Electronic-Overflow-Battery/dp/B00OUD0QZC/

haaaa, here's one that looks like a bug

I use this under my sink, works great, actually went off last week due to the soap dispenser leaking.

https://www.amazon.com/Glentronics-Inc-BWD-HWA-Basement-Watchdog/dp/B000JOK11K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497955372&sr=8-1&keywords=moisture+alarm+sensor

I also use this near my water heater, bit more expensive but it can alert you when you're not home though. (Need to buy SmartThings Hub)

https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-SmartThings-Water-Leak-Sensor/dp/B00MOIYIN6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1497955372&sr=8-4&keywords=moisture+alarm+sensor

We got these babies for cheap thanks to woot.

https://www.amazon.com/Leak-Frog-LF001-Water-Alarm/dp/B000WMSTUO

You're welcome. They come in all variations and sizes. Maybe install a marine battery and if you're game, a solar set up. You can also get something like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0081UR76G/ref=asc_df_B0081UR76G5374584/

I would strongly suggest floodstop. I have one and they are a life-saver.

My neighbor is a plumber and said he has seen these save many homes from a flooding.

Have 8 of these with ST v1 and they work perfectly:

http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-SmartThings-Water-Leak-Sensor/dp/B00MOIYIN6/

National Radon Action Month Consumer Information

First Alert RD1 Radon Gas Test Kit

Corentium Home by AirThings, Radon Gas Detector, USA version in pCi/L


Wave - A smart radon detector that works with or without a smartphone. Now available for pre-order! Expected to start shipping early March 2017. Get a 15% discount with discount code: CES17. S&H is $25 in US

Get one of these, they're cheap and awesome. A 9V battery is supposed to last 5 years.

https://www.amazon.com/Glentronics-Inc-BWD-HWA-Basement-Watchdog/dp/B000JOK11K/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1519237687&sr=8-4&keywords=water+leak+detector

The Aeotec one works with Wink. Tested myself and works great.

Get something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Crosse-Alerts-926-25101-GP-Wireless-Monitor/dp/B0081UR76G

You can probably do a lot with the alerts it can send out.

If I was you I would use VNC viewer to remote into all of my machines to shut them down if that is needed. You can also get power bricks that you can remotely access. Since you spent the money on 100GPUs you should probably set something like this up anyway.

You really should go buy this http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000AXH7MG?pc_redir=1404879215&robot_redir=1
If you don't know how he knew you had a plumed comming you need to find out how he knew it's pretty dam important. Sweep for bugs all over your house not just the phones. Check all computers for key loggers and then check your phones. He found out some how.

You can use as many probes as you like. I have many scattered under sinks, toilets, water heater, and washer.

I like the Aeotec Z Wave Water Sensors

Everything you planned to do appears sound - my concern will be the dryer duct length and cleaning.

Code by me is a 35' limit, which seems long. Every 90 degree turn counts as 5'. That means the two bends out of the dryer to go vertical, then back to horizontal count at 10'. If you're 15' from the exterior wall, you can only have two more bends. I'd avoid flexible duct as that reduces the length (adds turbulence). When you're planning the ductwork, include access points to clean it out easily, so you don't avoid doing it.

If your budget allows it, I'd consider adding a moisture meter/water shutoff for the washer supply lines.

I've been using one of these for a few months and am happy with it so far.

https://www.amazon.com/Crosse-Alerts-926-25101-GP-Wireless-Monitor/dp/B0081UR76G

I know you're probably asking for something that links in to a system, but there's also simpler stuff like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Glentronics-Inc-BWD-HWA-Basement-Watchdog/dp/B000JOK11K/

Perhaps so. They're cheap and can save you lots of time and money. Here's an example: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QF19F9Z/

Good news is you have an excuse to buy a new/better guitar and amp.

Also, buy one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Leak-Frog-LF001-Water-Alarm/dp/B000WMSTUO

mid July, so it's only been two weeks. could be coincidence

are you from that area? could it be new pollen from the yard? new carpet? or paint?

well water?

I'd do another mold test, just to rule it out:

https://www.amazon.com/Testing-Analysis-Expert-Consultation-included/dp/B016YSY8XQ

I have this Aeon one in my sump pump and I've been pleased so far.

https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Aeon-Labs-DSB45-Sensor/dp/B00H3TJ3P4

I got myself this electronic device. Reviews appear good.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H2VOSP8

Leak sensor in the keezer is a good idea.

Something like this maybe?

Same here, but I was surprised to find the prices were just about the same, even cheaper. They must be fixed. Plus they price match if you have prime. I found the water sensor I wanted $10 cheaper at Lowes:

$29.99 Lowes

$39.95 Amazon

bug sweepers can be bought online if you are interested here is the first link off google http://www.amazon.com/Professional-Wireless-Signal-Bug-Detector/dp/B000AXH7MG

So on 2nd picture I spotted model number - JPS225V

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-0-25-HP-Pre-Plumbed-Sink-Tray-System-Sump-Pump-THD1035/205616019

First thing it says: Great for washing machines, air conditioners and more

However the reviews aren't the best to say the least. But it looks like a regular shitty Everbilt pump in an enclosure. I had a pedestal one shit the bed on me when my hot water tank sprung a leak and it seized due to hot water (plastic impeller came off the shaft). I don't know if you do laundry on hot settings but that's something to ponder about.

I'd take a look if you can open it and swap out the pump itself for something like this to stay on the safe side and also I'd get a $5 water leak sensor.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000X0DEDC/

https://www.amazon.com/Instapark-Battery-powered-Detection-Batteries-Included/dp/B01IWTCLHA/

I use this one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006TG9W4Y

You attach the end of the cable above the water line you would normally accept before the pump kicks in. When it gets wet it sends an event to the hub and you can send a notification.

I actually have this: Automatic Laundry Water Leak Detector and Shut-Off System for Washing Machine Outlets, Flood Stopping and Water Leak Detection https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0742N3KHF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_QoZCCb12ACENZ

Basically a combo water detector and valve shutoff. Haven't needed it yet, but I'm glad it's there!

They sell lil things like these (can probably find similar for cheaper) to just leave next to your water sources and they'll make noise if there's water on the floor!

Maybe something like this but put it on something the height of the level you want to detect?

You should have sold her something like this http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AXH7MG

First of all, relax. You have been breathing mold spores since you were one minute old. You've been breathing them 24/7/365 days a year. Even the most sterile room in a hospital has mold spores. Honestly.

Here is an excerpt from the EPA:

Molds are usually not a problem indoors, unless mold spores land on a wet or damp spot and begin growing.

Molds are part of the natural environment. Outdoors, molds play a part in nature by breaking down dead organic matter such as fallen leaves and dead trees, but indoors, mold growth should be avoided. Molds reproduce by means of tiny spores; the spores are invisible to the naked eye and float through outdoor and indoor air. Mold may begin growing indoors when mold spores land on surfaces that are wet. There are many types of mold, and none of them will grow without water or moisture.

It is impossible to get rid of all mold and mold spores indoors; some mold spores will be found floating through the air and in house dust.

You are assuming that all molds are bad and dangerous to your health. That is flatly not true. A very few molds produce reactions in humans. There is no evidence yet that you even have one of these rare problems. Yes, you are seeing growth on the A-coil. That does not mean what you are seeing is toxic.

Let science determine whether or not you have an actual problem, please. Buy a test kit, collect some samples, and send them off to a lab:

https://www.amazon.com/Testing-Analysis-Expert-Consultation-included/dp/B016YSY8XQ

In a short while you will receive a report on what they've identified.

I have been working on air conditioning systems since 1977. Every single one of them, without fail, has had observable growth in and around the coil. It is biological. It is also a fact of life. Provide acceptable conditions, and life always finds a way to exploit that.

You probably do not want to hear this, but the same condition exists in your car or truck, too.

Don't sweat it. You are not going to die anytime soon, I assure you.

Also, ready-built 9v water detectors can be found for ~$10-15. It's cool to know how to make one with things you may already have, though.

It's like $20 on Amazon I bet. It's for a room. I think it's called a room test.

https://www.amazon.com/Testing-Analysis-Expert-Consultation-included/dp/B016YSY8XQ

This one i think you send to a lab, but there are ones you don't have to.

Similar to the last post, I have used one of these and it had served me well.

La Crosse Alerts Mobile 926-25101-GP Wireless Monitor System Set with Dry Probe https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0081UR76G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_sn8uCbX2BJG5G

I might as well use this then:

http://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-Aeotec-Z-Wave-DSB45-ZWUS/dp/B00H3TJ3P4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449521684&sr=8-1&keywords=zwave+water+sensor#Ask

I also learned the hard way with leaking water, but thankfully I was home when it started. I also purchased a couple of these water detectors https://www.amazon.com/Glentronics-Inc-BWD-HWA-Basement-Watchdog/dp/B000JOK11K/ref=sr_1_4

Essentially like fire alarms, but for water. Cheap protection. Put one under each sink, AC Unit, Laundry Room, water heater, etc..

Good catch but you should buy one of these.https://www.amazon.com/Glentronics-Inc-BWD-HWA-00895001498-Basement/dp/B000JOK11K/ref=asc_df_B000JOK11K/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198096709148&hvpos=1o9&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2485488544091809767&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=aud-801381245258:pla-349312978973&psc=1

This might be worth it for continuous monitoring: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H2VOSP8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Tj3yCbQZVXJR2

I use the Smartthings water sensor (link ), alerts come straight to my phone.

It might be a monitor for water leaks. A couple companies sell basement flood warning devices, but Ive never seen one like this. Most of them look like little frogs... http://www.amazon.com/Leak-Frog-LF001-Water-Alarm/dp/B000WMSTUO

This is the brand I have. If you look around I think they come in 4 packs. If you want to get fancy, I would look into getting one hardwired in, so you don't have to worry about changing the batteries.

Not an answer to your question but have you considered something like the following? (just one example, I have no personal experience with that specific one. The one I use at work is by monnit https://www.monnit.com )

https://www.amazon.com/Crosse-Alerts-926-25101-GP-Wireless-Monitor/dp/B0081UR76G/ref=br_lf_m_7jtxmhgy5w2c7f3_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&s=home-garden

It looks like the sale prices are in effect on Amazon, too. Here's that leak detector: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MOIYIN6/

The radon detector that they loan out is currently on sale at Amazon for $150, it's listed as $100 off.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B00H30TLPA/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=AN7IPYCYI0F10&psc=1

Is this a thing? https://www.amazon.com/LIBERTY-SAFE-SECURITY-PROD-11015/dp/B00KRJTJ0G
I have no knowledge of these things at all. Just started googling because I felt it was an interesting idea.

Also, if you are going to tune your system (and I believe the effort is worthwhile), a couple of cheap data loggers could help you 'watch' the system when you aren't present.

Something like: https://www.amazon.com/Measurement-Computing-USB-Temperature-Logger/dp/B001EJRJCS

Put one on the supply and one on the return. Download the data and geek out on the results.

My setup isn't exactly that advanced really. Echo integration with Nest works, but not as well as Google Home which is smarter, but that's because Nest is owned by Google. But I can change the temperature and find out what the temperature is set to from the Echo Dot, so that's all I need.

As far as leak sensors and contact sensors, there are some that you can set with the SmartThings hub.

https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-SmartThings-Water-Leak-Sensor/dp/B00MOIYIN6

There are a few others in the works with smartthings link.

https://www.smartthings.com/products/-/filter/categories/sensors

Water leak alarms. Not a tool but these little devices pay for themselves after your first leak (you don't want to find about it when water is sipping through the ceiling, or when mold is the first clue). These one have worked well for me in various occasions: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002Q8GRPG/ref=cm_sw_r_an_am_ap_am_us?ie=UTF8

Tools: I agree with most everyone else here: Drill, hammer, measuring tape and level to start, then buy as you need and rent expensive equipment, specially for single projects.

To add to this, don't pay $230 for a 3-day test. First off, it's not an accurate picture, radon levels can fluctuate a lot in 3 days. Second, it's a complete rip off, you can buy your own digital meter for $250.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01CW4BG4K/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484074632&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=wifi+cam&dpPl=1&dpID=41YBQG2PpQL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/Crosse-Alerts-926-25101-GP-Wireless-Monitor/dp/B0081UR76G/ref=pd_bxgy_201_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=06BP6V42WNWY6V0R7GY8

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005TY2MFS/ref=pe_225750_222264250_em_1p_0_ti

> LaCrosse TX60 gateway and station

$29.95, Prime. https://www.amazon.com/Crosse-Alerts-926-25101-GP-Wireless-Monitor/dp/B0081UR76G/ref=pd_bxgy_201_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=06BP6V42WNWY6V0R7GY8

It was the Smartthings sensor.

https://smile.amazon.com/Samsung-SmartThings-Water-Leak-Sensor/dp/B00MOIYIN6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1518826162&sr=8-3&keywords=smartthings+water+leak+sensor&dpID=31jvw6hYdeL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Might i suggest this

You can get a remote weather monitoring system. They often come with smartphone apps. Here's a cheap option:

La Crosse Alerts Mobile 926-25101-GP Wireless Monitor System Set with Dry Probe https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0081UR76G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_mZ-wxbDMMZ7QT

I already use a weathergoose in my server room, so this would plug right in:

http://www.itwatchdogs.com/product-detail-water_sensor-36.html


At home I have some leakfrogs set up under sinks and by my furnace. They aren't network enabled, but they do make a lot of noise when they get wet. http://www.amazon.com/Leak-Frog-LF001-Water-Alarm/dp/B000WMSTUO

Doesn't work with Smartthings but would do the job.

https://www.amazon.com/Crosse-Alerts-926-25101-GP-Wireless-Monitor/dp/B0081UR76G/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1525124347&sr=8-4&keywords=freezer+monitor

Zwave water sensor with 3 foot wire, works with SmartThings:

https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Aeon-Labs-DSB45-Sensor/dp/B00H3TJ3P4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494862439&sr=8-1&keywords=zwave+water+sensor

How about an automatic system, so you don't have to worry?:

https://www.amazon.com/Floodstop-Washing-Machines-4-H90-Version/dp/B00PM9A3TC

https://www.amazon.com/Glentronics-Inc-BWD-HWA-Basement-Watchdog/dp/B000JOK11K/

Is this just while you sleep with your reefer at a lot? Or parked at home with access to internet?

This might work http://www.amazon.com/Crosse-Alerts-926-25101-GP-Wireless-Monitor/dp/B0081UR76G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422499179&sr=8-1&keywords=lacrosse+temperature+monitor

A mobile wifi hotspot would enable it anywhere.

This is what I use:

La Crosse Alerts Mobile 926-25101-GP Wireless Monitor System Set with Dry Probe https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0081UR76G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_G9BVDbC1FSSYR

$30 bucks. Has high temp/humidity alerts and data logging

I just ordered the Aeon Labs one, but it hasn't arrived yet.

http://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-Aeotec-Z-Wave-DSB45-ZWUS/dp/B00H3TJ3P4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1452982334&sr=8-1&keywords=aeon+labs+flood

I would consider getting a water monitor for under sinks. https://www.amazon.com/Glentronics-Inc-BWD-HWA-00895001498-Basement/dp/B000JOK11K/ref=zg_bs_7491105011_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=F334FD7FY88W7Y4SSA2T

There are RF detectors you can buy that tell you if there are cameras or anything.

http://www.amazon.com/Professional-Wireless-Signal-Bug-Detector/dp/B000AXH7MG

That one's $12. I know the Radio Shack near my house sells these so it's entirely possible that this store did or that she had seen one in an actual local store.

Everspring Z-Wave Water/Flood Sensor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006TG9W4Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9-lYCbP5DR0ZK

Non-mobile: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0081UR76G/ref=redir_mdp_mobile/176-6872666-1743244?fp=1&pc_redir=1427641992

^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?

Just bought a couple after my sump pump crapped out.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JOK11K/

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00H3TJ3P4

I use it with a Wink 2 hub

price history

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0081UR76G?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

https://smile.amazon.com/Leak-Frog-LF001-Water-Alarm/dp/B000WMSTUO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1488252592&sr=8-2&keywords=leakfrog

Normal to run this often make sure the hose is well away from the house or you will just be pumping the same water over and over. I have one of the leak frog alarms.

I'm cheap, I ended up buying the Corentium detector:

https://www.amazon.com/Corentium-Detector-Airthings-223-Lightweight/dp/B00H2VOSP8

My logic was that radon tests are not most helpful as a one-time thing. You probably want to run at least one short term test, then possibly a long term test. You'll want testing during and after your radon system is installed (especially if you DIY, which I did). Don't forget that you also likely want to test in different locations as well. Depending on your layout, there may not be an obvious best/lowest location. I had a friend who tested low in his crawlspace, but over the partial slab had an 18.

Long term, rather than spending $20-$30 per test (which adds up fast and discourages testing) I can test literally as many times as I want, for as long as I want, in as many places as I want.

And now I have it in a hallway, where I can check on it with a glance when I walk by and could spot any issues.

I'm in a similar situation as you. One thing I did to ease my mind a bit before I do get around to replacement is a water leak detector like this one... Maybe will help you get more time out of it without having to stare at the ceiling for water damage.

This is the one I'm planning to get for the freezer in the summer and my mini-fridge in the winter. DO pay attention to some of the comments though. If you are frequently away from home for long periods, you need a more expensive system.

https://www.amazon.com/Crosse-Alerts-926-25101-GP-Wireless-Monitor/dp/B0081UR76G/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=refrigerator+alert&qid=1556036488&s=gateway&sr=8-7

Yep. The long term average is 2.81 pCi but every now and then i see the 1 day average spike to 6 pCi which makes me nervous.

I've used this little guy for the last year or so...

https://www.amazon.com/Corentium-Airthings-Radon-Detector-version/dp/B00H2VOSP8/

For future use, you might want to get some leak detectors: http://www.amazon.com/Zircon-Leak-Alert-Electronic-Batteries/dp/B002Q8GRPG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=undefined&sr=8-1&keywords=water+leak+detector

Oh, I hear you - I'm in Indiana. Keeping them open for a couple hours for the first week is to lower your current high level. Afterwards, you should only need to open a window briefly (I usually do 15m or so) every day or two to keep levels low.

I've got one of these meters: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H2VOSP8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I keep an eye on it and try to keep my levels below 3. Anytime it creeps up, I crack my window until it goes back down. It's a bit of a hefty initial investment of $200 for the meter, but it's so worth it when compared with the expensive systems.

To answer your question, there is no way to tell toxic mold from a photo. All mold can be hazardous to sensitive individuals. But the way to tell toxic mold is to get an in-home test that runs between $40 and $200, or hire a professional mold remediation company who will run tests.

Example of in home test: https://www.amazon.com/Testing-Analysis-Expert-Consultation-included/dp/B016YSY8XQ

> Leak Frogs

Those are $40 for two of them? Geez.

Try these ones instead. They aren't cute, but they're half the price.

I have a few of these (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JOK11K), and one of them alerted me last year to a leaking water heater. If I didn't have it there, the leak would have continued for quite a while before I noticed.

Aight, put the froggy at 1.5 ft. The height of the warning frog is your choice. https://www.amazon.com/Leak-Frog-LF001-Water-Alarm/dp/B000WMSTUO

Or at the very least get a few leakfrogs! (I have no idea why that's selling for $50, maybe they're not making them anymore. I got one from woot in a bag of crap years ago!)

https://www.amazon.com/Glentronics-Inc-BWD-HWA-Basement-Watchdog/dp/B000JOK11K/ref=pd_bxgy_469_img_3/139-9189163-9220010?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000JOK11K&pd_rd_r=2328cb60-a275-11e9-8b3f-05565185fef1&pd_rd_w=VRTMj&pd_rd_wg=fngno&pf_rd_p=a2006322-0bc0-4db9-a08e-d168c18ce6f0&pf_rd_r=NRBNSJF38ZYBXYM05YDD&psc=1&refRID=NRBNSJF38ZYBXYM05YDD

​

I have 4 of these.. several have alarmed with just tiny amounts of water on the ground.. placement is key. I prefer these because I can keep the unit with speaker/battery off the ground and sensor in tighter spots.

I like these Glentronics ones and have them everywhere. Cheaper ones I've tried were unreliable, but my oldest Glentronics alarm has been in service for at least ten years. Since the sensor is removable, I was able to put one under the fridge and place the alarm where there was space.

It's a bit of a pain to replace the batteries every two years (that's the schedule I've used for my smoke alarms too) but it's worth the peace of mind. Before water sensors I had a washing machine flood, a fridge ice maker flood, a water heater flood, and a basement laundry pit flood, three of which went on too long because I had no idea what was happening in the basement. These alarms I can hear easily from the main floor.

Glentronics also made my Basement Watchdog Big Dog battery backup sump pump which I've had for fourteen years and has saved my basement three times during extended power failures. First battery lasted six years, the second one lasted seven, and I installed my third just recently. They sell good stuff.

I would at least get one of those rolling portable AC units and keep on the side. If the main AC shits the bed, at least you're not running around like a maniac. 14,000 BTU unit will cost about $500. That's an awesome price to pay to sleep better at night.

Also, get a shitty network temperature sensor. This one is cheap and emails/SMS/app notifies you: https://www.amazon.com/Crosse-Alerts-926-25101-GP-Wireless-Monitor/dp/B0081UR76G/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1479181276&sr=8-2&keywords=network+temperature+sensor

Get one of these if you don't have one already.

It's saved my ass from a similar situation - return line tube popped off of my pump and I had the fountains at Bellagio in my stand. Luckily most was making it back into my sump, but the little that was splashing out triggered my leak alarm.

Water sensors near all equipment that can potentially cause thousands of dollars in damage if it springs a leak. Water heater, boiler, and the main water inlet all have one of these near them on the floor

I prefer inline, but I do all my own plumbing and know how to prevent/fix leaks. If you're concerned about leaks, get a plastic tote and leak detector and set as much plumbing as possible in there. That way you'll have ~10 gallons to figure out how to fix a leak.

https://www.amazon.com/Glentronics-Inc-BWD-HWA-Basement-Watchdog/dp/B000JOK11K/ref=zg_bs_7491105011_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=VHB3PC6NP2SZHEZ9DVAM&th=1

There are basically 4 different sensor categories for my application.


  

1. USB logger

This plugs directly into the USB port on the Mac. They range wildly in price, sometimes costing close to $1k (which is way out of my budget).

Examples: TEMPerHUM, Omega, Lascar, Extech, TemperatureAlert, and more here

The problem is that, for whatever reason, these USB loggers are only compatible with Windows. The five above examples are Windows only.

The only logger that I have found that is Mac compatible is the Minnow. However, I spoke with the manufacturer and realized that it is not designed to be a real-time USB logger; the unit will quickly overheat. The workaround is to incorporate a USB relay switch to manually connect/disconnect the Minnow periodically from the Mac.

  

2. Bluetooth

Examples: Blustream, SensorPush, D'Addario Humiditrak, Eve Degree, and more here

The problem is that all of these products have an iOS app, but no macOS app.

But If I purchased the SensorPush sensor along with the $100 SensorPush WiFi Gateway, I can access the data over the internet.

But there are cheaper WiFi options, like the ConnectSense (won't be shipping until early 2019), Proteus, and La Crosse. But, I am hesitant to fully depend on an internet connection to get the data (i.e., if the internet goes down, then I would lose access to the data, which is not ideal).




  

3. RF

AcuRite sells a $13 Wireless Temperature and Humidity Sensor (model # 06002M) that transmits every 16 seconds using a 433 MHz wireless signal with a maximum range of 330'. This sensor is inexpensive because it is designed to be used with AcuRite Access and the AcuRite weather station products, which I do not want or need. It's all proprietary.

However, some people have reverse-engineered the radio signal to decode the data stream from this sensor if you have a USB RF receiver.

Examples:

• Acurite-00592TX-Decoder-ESP32a (C++)
  
  
• YouTube - Decoding Low Power Devices on MAC OSX Using RTL433
  
  
• rtl_433 (C) (device protocol #11)
  
  
• "Reverse Engineer Wireless Rain Sensors — Part 1"
  
  
• "Wireless Temperature Sensor"
  
  
  This path appears frustrating and difficult to a neophyte like me.
  
  
  
    
  
  

  4. DIY microcontroller
  

  
  Unlike the other 3 sensor categories, this looks like the one area where proprietary protocols are not in the way of progress. Once you get everything set up, accessing the raw data is a breeze.
  
  This is probably the most cost-effective option.
  
  Examples: Raspberry Pi + this $10 DHT22 sensor, Arduino, Espressif esp8266/esp32 wifi module
  
  The problem is that this is simply over my head. I have no real experience programming from the command line or really anything other than basic scripts. It would just be best if I paid someone to set this up for me, as I can easily envision myself spending 100 hours on this "simple" project.