(Part 3) Reddit mentions: The best standard electrical outlets

Thanks for the suggestion. I do have the power to the tv in the recessed outlet.

https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-689-W-Recessed-Receptacle-Residential/dp/B0012DKBL2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484360886&sr=8-1&keywords=recessed+outlet

That is what I have. I think using a 6" flexible extender as mentioned above is going to be the best fit.

The one I have is https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B076PKVPHQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Looks like it is not self-grounded :(

On the other hand, here's an example of self-grounding receptacle that does not have any brass clips: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-20-Amp-125-Volt-Decora-Combination-Duplex-Outlet-and-USB-Charger-White-3-Pack-VB1-T5832-THD/206981082

The setup for anyone interested:

• this wall-mountable protective Echo stand ($17)
  
• power outlet with USB output ($28)
  
• a short "designer"-looking USB cord ($5)
  
  Total cost ~$50
  
  FWIW, I could have saved ~$30 by not switching out the power outlet and using a USB power adapter brick. But it was worth the extra cost for the "minimal" look, and now I have USB in the bathroom in case I need to power something else.

They have gotten much cheaper since their introduction to the market. The are very easy to install. Below is a link so OP can get some. :)

https://www.amazon.com/Standard-outlet-Socket-Ports-Mount/dp/B01N0KIJGZ/ref=asc_df_B01N0KIJGZ/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167135564802&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6169960281297215207&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1015272&hvtargid=aud-466606931481:pla-306997685015&psc=1

It is a Despard toggle switch and Despard receptacle

Your seems to be installed incorrectly since the receptacle isn't proud of the mounting plate. Looks like there is a good chance that something plugged into that receptacle could short against the mounting plate.

Some offices / hotels I've been to use outlets built into the table like this:
https://hi5furniture.com/product/power-for-training-tables/

Some of them are so narrow that some wider plugs won't fit. I've found taking the 6 inch extension can be a lifesaver.

Another example:
https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-Recessed-Receptacle-Residential-Mounted/dp/B0017WKSWA

Go Topgreener, Enerlites, Leviton or Lutron all UL Listed

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M4HHM3Z without wallplates

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0743JP4LQ with wallplates

these are probably the cheapest ones on there, dont really trust bestten.

We have the outlets i linked at our home, work great and the reviews all seem to agree

Ok sounds good.

According to this video and the explaination of NEC 210.12(A)(4) I would not need an AFCI breaker at the box, just an AFCI/GFCI outlet as the first in each branch.

Is that right? I already have 3 20amp regular breakers in my box that are unused. The home run is only about 20 feet so I think I could just use the AFCI/GFCI outlets instead of an ACFI breaker and GFCI outlet...

No stove for the kitchen, just the microwave?

And this is just a minor thing, but USB outlets along the counter top for cell phones, etc:

https://www.amazon.com/Top-Greener-TU2152A-W-Resistant-Receptacle/dp/B076BGG91V

Do you want a heated floor for the bathroom? How about a second ceiling fan for the theatre room?

If you are saying that there is already a RV receptacle in the location that you want to install the GFCI, you may end up having to rewire some things because you likely won't have enough wire to do it due to RV receptacles being very different from household ones.

RV receptacles don't use a box to enclose the wiring. Everything is enclosed inside of the body of the receptacle itself with a plastic piece that needs a special tool (or a C-clamp or large pump pliers) used to compress the front and back piece together. It creates an electrical connection that won't vibrate loose but there isn't any extra slack to wire in a conventional electrical device. These RV type receptacles do not come in a GFCI version. If you want GFCI protection, you will probably need to install a GFCI circuit breaker in the panel or you'll have to splice in a junction box somewhere in the circuit to allow enough wire.

Edit: clarified wording

Turning on a light when motion is dectected is basic, basic stuff. Whatever stability issue there could be with ST (I have it, and they're overstated IMO) using IFFT would bring even more latency issues.

IMO if you just want that functionnality a HA setup is overkill. Just buy a LED nighlight with motion or light sensor for 10$ and you're done. For my bathroom I went simple but high-class and replaced an outlet with one like this.

I came across this thread when trying to find how to connect a tp-link smart plug to WPA Enterprise.

I found some potential solutions. You could just use a basic remote control plug where the teacher would not even have to use their phone.

Alternatively with a little configuration you could use a Web Things Gateway which is Mozilla's IOT gateway which can be created with a Raspberry Pi. Which means that you could provide internet through a cable connection. Then you could control the sockets using an Energine Pi Controller. This allows you to control the sockets using the Raspberry Pi GPIO which you can control through the Web of Things Gateway (see this tutorial).

Hope this helps if you are still facing the issue.

> Aeon Labs Smart Switch 6

Yes - although the subnote states it does not report energy usage to wink which is what OP was requesting - so it only works as a switched outlet.

The Quirky Outlet is the only product I've heard of so far that reports this energy usage http://www.amazon.com/Quirky-POTLK-WH01-Outlink-Remote-Outlet/dp/B00P1Q2MPY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453402496&sr=8-1&keywords=quirky+outlet

Keep in mind Quirky is bankrupt - this means we can get products like this cheap at the moment but there will little support moving forward unless Wink continues to maintain the software side.

Yeah. I bought these and got them working with Siri/HomeKit, with a pi as a hub :
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Energenie-Radio-Controlled-Sockets-Gift-white/dp/B003GSPOFO

A good thing about them is the on/off switch.

I would put in cat6 for future proof.

Two outlets would be great, ivwould go one step further and the desk outlet I would make a double gang with one outlet being a 4 usb outlet

BESTTEN 4.2A/21W USB Receptacle Outlet with 4 High-Speed USB Charging Ports and LED Indicator, Wall Plate Included, UL Listed, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N0R2VRA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_2x3qDbJMCZ5BW

Awesome! I like the switch, but how to hook it up to a power strip? I read that it is ill-advised to dismantle a power strip for rewiring the switch.

Edit: I guess you could wire a regular outlet to this switch...

Price History

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Outlets that are also night lights, like this one

It's just nice that no matter what, you always have a night light.

I have two different sets of these in my home. They are remote controlled light switches that you plug a lamp (or whatever) into. My family liked mine so much I gave them away as Christmas presents to my dad and brother.

Etekcity Remote Controlled Outlet switch

You probably want something like this

https://www.amazon.ca/Leviton-689-W-Recessed-Receptacle-Residential/dp/B0012DKBL2?th=1&psc=1&source=googleshopping&locale=en-CA&tag=googcana-20&ref=pd_sl_52pik6sfkh_e

Run separate circuits for lights and outlets. If they share the same circuit, the light may dim when you have a load on it. Especially in the kitchen where you may have kitchen appliances drawing high loads.

Separate circuit for each room if possible.

Outlet outside near the eaves if you plan on putting up Xmas/outdoor lights.

I just replaced a GFCI outlet with the ones that has a built-in nightlight and I gotta admit, it's pretty darn useful. https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-GFNL1-W-SmartlockPro-Tamper-Resistant-Receptacle/dp/B013OVC61C/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1503093808&sr=1-1&keywords=gfci+night+light

Run 3-wires to all ceiling lights where you may want a fan. This will allow you toggle the fan/lights separately.

Be aware of where you place your switches in case you want motion-sensor switches.

Go wild on placing outlets everywhere. Don't limit it to one per wall. Have some in the hallways for your vacuum or night-light.

Have an outlet in your medicine cabinet if possible. To charge your shaver/toothbrush.

Outlet near your toilet (you'll never know if you're going to install those fancy toilet seats). Also nice if you have to charge your phone while taking a dump.

For kitchen counter, install those outlets with the USB plug. My wife said it was stupid at first, but now she uses it all the time while cooking. Install one in the pantry, too.

You'll need a separate one for the disposal, dishwasher, range, microwave, and oven if you plan to go electric. Run one anyways even if you go gas... Never know what will happen in the future.

For low voltage (data-cables), use conduits everywhere.

You need something like this or similar. [link](http://www.Etekcity.com/ Upgraded Version Remote Control Outlet Wireless Light Switch for Household Appliances, Unlimited Connections, Compact Design, FCC ETL Listed, White (3Rx, 1Tx) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071114JCC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_QVZbBbZ0SFZMD)

You ONLY want power? If so then just put a blue box up and get a recessed outlet: LIKE THIS

Depending on how much work you want to do you could try Pi controlled sockets. Plug the bulbs in via the pi-controlled sockets and then hook a button for each bulb up to the GPIO. Write a script which will turn the bulb on/off when the button is pressed. At that point the Zero also starts a timer, and if it doesn't receive an "off" press before the hour is up it emails you.

I finally settled on these guys:

https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-GFNL1-W-SmartlockPro-Tamper-Resistant-Receptacle/dp/B013OVC61C

Highly rated Tamper proof and GFCI, I'll try out one or two and if they work I'll go hogwild and replace them all.

Needs a 90 degree plug or a clock outlet.

https://www.amazon.com/Enerlites-Electrical-Residential-Tamper-Resistant-Self-Grounding/dp/B0743JP4LQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1543338783&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=square+outlet&dpPl=1&dpID=41p1OMzjhsL&ref=plSrch

Install a recessed wall outlet that will be hidden from view.

http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-T5325-W-Resistant-Receptacle-Grounding/dp/B0012DRL4C/ref=pd_sim_hi_1

I don't have a resource for exactly what you're looking for and I'm not sure what your use case is, but you could also think about swapping out the outlet itself for an inset outlet such as:

https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-689-W-Recessed-Receptacle-Residential/dp/B0012DKBL2/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=inset+outlet&qid=1555988238&s=gateway&sr=8-1

I have these in all my bathrooms:
http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-GFNL1-W-SmartlockPro-Tamper-Resistant-Receptacle/dp/B013OVC61C/ref=pd_sim_60_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=0DJGXHHCADBVS60H83K3

Not very bright, just enough to be able to see the edges of things.

I know you already wired the plug, but if you had put in a recessed outlet you wouldn’t have this issue.


Leviton 689-W 15 Amp 1-Gang Recessed Duplex Receptacle, Residential Grade, with Screws Mounted to Housing, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012DKBL2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_OKvUBbDNX0NJH