(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best standard electrical outlets

I've had this printer for 3 years and have tweaked it about as far as I can go without replacing the electronics or frame. Here are the mods I recommend, in the order they should be applied for maximum effectiveness...

1. MOSFET mod. This one isn't for effectiveness, but rather safety. There is no thermal runaway protection on the firmware, and this mod will prevent heavy current from going through the control board...instead it is routed directly from the power supply to the print bed. It's a lot easier than it looks, and doing it will give you a good overview of the innards of the electronics. DO NOT SKIP THIS MOD. (While you have your electronics enclosure cracked you might also consider installing a 120mm cooling fan mod, which will make the printer MUCH quieter if you get a good fan for it. However, this mod can be installed anytime later on.)
   
   
2. Remote print monitoring. Octoprint. This mod is less about printing better and more about printing easier. Swapping out MicroSD cards sucks. Octoprint will make controlling your printer MUCH easier, especially if you plan on leaving it unattended and want to check on it remotely. Adding a camera to the Raspberry Pi and you can monitor it remotely. If Octoprint is a bridge too far for your skills, then AstroPrint is a much simpler fork of Octoprint. Same basic functionality, but you don't need to worry about IP addresses and such. I used AstroPrint for two years before finally installing OctoPrint.
   
   
3. Smart plug. Again, this is for unattended printing, which most people will say you should never do. But, unless you work from home or are a shut-in, you'll end up doing this so you can make nice sexy 50 hour prints. A wifi enabled smart plug like this one will let you kill the power remotely if your print fails and you're looking at a mess of spaghetti from afar and can't get home to clear it. While you're at it put your printer and Octoprint server on a UPS...even a small power blip can cause your control board to reset and your print will fail.
   
   
4. Glass print bed. Now, a lot of people will disagree with me on this, and even more will disagree with me on it being #4, but I found the bed to be a bit warped on mine and this upgrade got rid of that. It's easy and cheap and will give you glass-smooth first layers. I personally recommend borosilicate glass over Home Depot window pane glass or mirrors, but YMMV. Use only 3 small binder clips to secure the glass to the heated bed, skipping the front left corner (otherwise your nozzle might collide).
   
   
5. Z braces. There are tons of options out there. I have the standard front-mount variety, but I wish I'd installed the back-mount type...something like this...so I could get some more clearance around the bed in front when I'm leveling. Depending on the Z braces you install it might lift your Z columns off the table. If so, print something like this to add some additional support.
   
   
6. Part Cooler Fan Duct/Shroud. I've tried them all...the Dii, Cii, Cobra. The one I finally liked best is the [OptiCooler](https://letsprint3d.net/2017/01/29/guide-installing-a-mosfet-board-maker-select-v2/). Important note: you should really print this in PETG or ABS because the tips of the ducts get really close to the hotend and can melt if printed in PLA.
   
   
7. Microswiss All-Metal Hotend. I was having a lot of heatbreak issues on mine, where heat creep would cause the filament to get too soft in the PTFE tube and cause a jam. The Microswiss eliminated all that. Well worth the money. Get a couple spare nozzles while you're at it.
   
   
8. While you're modding the hotend, get some silicone socks and discard the wool/kapton crap that will drive you crazy if you try to replace it. Super cheap on BangGood or AliExpress. You'll be glad when you get a failed print that tries to glue itself to the hotend.
   
   
9. Y-axis carriage upgrade. This will reduce the weight of your Y-axis carriage and give you dramatically faster print speeds because of the reduced inertia. Huge improvement for me. Adding an actual cable drag chain at this point would make a lot of sense so your wires don't get caught or abraded. Why Wanhao/Monoprice don't include a Y-axis cable chain is beyond me. You'll need to print one rather than buy one because the hotbed cables are hardwired and can't be removed...the printed variety of drag chain lets you install it with the wires in place.
   
   
10. While you're under your Y axis make sure you have some good belt tensioner replacements already printed (hopefully in PETG for strength). I printed a bunch, and found these to be the best so far. My testing is far from exhaustive, so YMMV. Putting these on the X and Y axes will make your prints have less texture in them from the belts bouncing around.
    
    
11. Speaking of bouncing around, the front and back of the Y-axis frame on the Wanhao/Monoprice printers can get a bit bendy if you really crank up the tension on the belt. This is a major weak point and should be stiffened. The mods I installed is a two-part affair for the front and back. Be forewarned, the replacement stepper bracket for the back is a BITCH to get installed. I wanted to remix it and designed captured nuts for the bracket, but never got around to it.
    
    
12. Lights. Oh my god, lights! Once you install lights in your printer you'll wonder how you ever saw anything without them. I skipped the whole dedicated LED mount on the print head and just adhered a strip of LED lights around the entire inside of the frame. There's just enough space to stick it inside the arch and let the steppers clear as they move up the Z screws. If you're good with electronics you can wire them in directly to the main power supply, so you don't have another power supply under your desk.
    
    
13. Not necessary for print effectiveness, but I eventually upgraded my thermistor to a screw-in variety. They are less likely to short out.
    
    
14. Z-extensions. I've only really needed these on a couple of prints, but they are nice to have for extra height.
    
    
15. Oh..one last thing. Unlike the i3 Plus, the v2 has a separate power supply and electronics unit, which makes moving the printer a pain. Cut a section of 3/4" plywood 24" x 24" and put everything on it...makes moving it so much easier. Go to the dollar store and buy some cheap gray doormats...spray glue those onto the plywood to dress it up!
    
    Lastly, I highly recommend having a stock of spare parts for your printer on hand. Nothing is more frustrating than having your thermistor short out and despite Amazon Prime you're still down for two days while you wait. Order ahead from Ali or BangGood where possible, saving yourself some money in the process. I recommend getting some spare nozzles, silicone socks, belts, an assortment of M3 screws and nuts, spare 40mm fans, spare part cooling fans (axial or radial depending on your mod). You'd be surprised how often fans go out!
    
    Good luck, have fun! Be safe!
    
    (edit, added #15)

Start small. It'll save you money, let you get your feet wet, and help you learn how to grow better, and then you can buy bigger.

My "starter package" is:

• A 2' x 2' x 3' grow tent - $55.
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SWGYYWO
  
  
• A grow light ($90). I prefer COB's as they're easier to fix than blurples.
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I4NY8KW
  
  
• A power strip zip-tied to a pole in the tent. Makes wiring prettier and easier. ($24) I chose a nice metal one, but you can use a cheaper one.
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F8ZQYHA
  
  
• Hangers to hold the light ($8)
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0098R0600
  
  
• A fan and filter ($70), and variac ($90) to filter smell and move air to keep things cool. This combo is overkill for this tent, but I ended up using it on later tents so it's a good long-term investment. You can cobble something cheaper together with some work, but this "just works" out of the box.
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004Q2ER5C/
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006NGI8VS
  
  
• 5 gallon Smart Pot ($7) for growing, FoxFarm Ocean Forest Soil ($16.50), Plant saucer ($7) for growing. You can save some money here by shopping around. In particular, Amazon's price for FFOF is about double what I pay at the (very expensive) local "indoor gardening" center.
  https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Pots-5-Gallon-Soft-Sided-Container/dp/B002JUOWB2
  https://www.amazon.com/FoxFarm-FX14053-12-Quart-Organic-Potting/dp/B001I49Q98
  https://www.lowes.com/pd/Garden-Treasures-15-31-in-Rust-Plastic-Plant-Saucer/50445000
  
  
• Go Box Plant Nutrients. This should last you several grows.
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004PS4B08
  
  
• Seed of your choice (let's say $10).
  
  So for about $420 (heh), you can get your foot in the door and start growing. This is a nice setup too, you can probably save $100 by shopping around, buying used, or doing-it-yourself. I've left off a few odds and ends like dryer duct, Fiskers for trimming, weed fabric pins for low-stress training, pitcher for watering, Mason jars for storage, but you can likely find those or suitable replacements around the house without spending money.
  
  I also have a Raspberry Pi 3 ($43) with Sense Hat ($37) and metal case ($15) in each of my grow tents to log temperature/humidity and other things. I'm interested in eventually using the GPIO functionality to water my plants too. Not critical, but definitely a nice thing to have, especially if you're the hacker type. If you go this route, you might look at raspiviv.com too.
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C6FFNY4
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014HDG74S
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0722L338Q
  
  I'm glad I bought a good intro setup because I still use it now that I've upgraded. I now have a 3' x 3' GG Shorty tent with HLG 300 LED for flower, a 2' x 2.5' GG Shorty tent with two 400W Roleadro COB's for veg, and my "intro package" is now my germination/cloning tent (and drying tent too since several people suggested that too). Being able to have three tents (germination -> veg -> flower) working simultaneously is increasing my output quite sharply. I'm doing this to help a relative with cancer, so you may not need to go quite as crazy as I did.
  
  You mentioned using 35+ gs (~1.25 oz) a month. You probably aren't going to be able to grow that much given the constraints of tent size and light wattage (plus being a first-time grower! You'll learn a lot!). So once you get used to it, you'll probably want to buy more stuff. Marijuana isn't addictive, but growing marijuana absolutely is.
  
  Once you've got your hardware, the variable cost is seed (~$10), soil (~$5), nutrients (~$20), and electricity (~$30). From that, I'm going to estimate you can grow ~1.5 ozs (you can do more as you learn more though). So you're looking at ~$40/oz after you've made the initial hardware investment.
  
  Hope this helps. Depression, cancer, and everything else can just go suck it.

Home assistant will interface with all sorts of products you can look at the Home Assistant website to see all things it interfaces with.

I will also say that this is the most active community and the fastest to incorporate new products. Over the last five months I have been tinkering with HA many new products have been incorporated.


As for the Iris Smart Plug it is a zigbee device that contains a Zwave radio. It will connect to your Zwave network and be an always on device (meaning that it will extend the reach of your mesh network) but you will not be able to control the on and off of the plug. I have two of them and they work great if you use something that has Zigbee radio.
If you are only going to utilize the Z-Stick you will want to use something like one of the following:

[Leviton VRPD3-1LW Vizia RF] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JFF4RG4/ref=twister_B01JJKURQS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1) I have this one for my Christmas tree

GE Lighting Lamp Module with Dimmer Controller

[GE Z-Wave Wireless Lighting Control Outdoor Module] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013V8K3O/ref=twister_B017SOTBJG?_encoding=UTF8&th=1) I have a few of these outside

As for the GE Duplex outlet, I have one or two of them but I really like the design and functionality of the Leviton VRR15-1LZ Vizia RF + Split Duplex Receptacle better.

As for light bulbs, I own Hue, Link, Cree, and maybe one more. They are all Zigbee bulbs so I connect them to the Hue hub and let it interface with HA. They work fine for my uses but I really don't care about the colors. When Lifx put its bulbs on sale a few weeks ago I almost bought some of the BR30 but didn't because they don't interface with Home Kit. I really don't need them since the fixtures already have a zwave switch but I thought it would be nice to change colors if I wanted to. Also I have found that some of the Zigbee bulbs loose the connection with the hub if they are turned on and off from a switch. I was hoping the Lifx being wifi would not do that.

Would anyone be interested in some youtube videos explaining my setup and discussing my experiences with products?

If you have decided to move forward I suggest going with a Solid State Relay system based around PID controllers. A company "Auber" produces one called the EZ-Boil. The EZ-Boil has the very nice (and unique) feature of not only having PID control but also having easy to access Duty Cycle control for boiling your wort.


https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=53&products_id=560



Other PID controllers in this category like the Inkbird ITC-100RH do have duty cycle control but it is not nearly as easy to use as the Auber.



Make sure you use a GFCI (Ground Fault Circut Interrupter) for more safety. They can be had on Amazon for cheap and will save your life if something goes wrong. GFCI plugs will cut the power with a contactor to your element if the continuity between ground and common is broken. Instead of you being shocked and hurt the power will be shutoff.

Amazon Link to a GFCI rated for the correct Amperage. https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-16794-20-Amp-120-Volt-Right-Angle/dp/B00HRF31AC/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3G4AFGNJ0277U&keywords=gfci+plug&qid=1565642998&s=home-garden&sprefix=GFCI+pl%2Cgarden%2C140&sr=1-4


Bobby from BrewHardware in New Jersey stocks essentially all the stuff you need to build your own electric setup. I would also recommend these elements from Amazon, a buddy purchased them and they have been great. TC Element

If your buddy is a TIG welder and doesnt mind helping out you are in luck. TC ferrules can be attached to your kettle with hard-soldering and thats great but nothing will beat a TIG welded connection in terms of strength. If your buddy is not a TIG welder or doesnt have access to one it is very possible to solder on your connections with a solder formulated for bonding to stainless steel. Soldering on a TC ferrule



Links to Ferrules and Electric brewing parts on Brew Hardware https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/ptbulkhead_tool15tc.htm



Goodluck! if you have any questions let me know.

I would not use L6. You don't need the locking ability, it will just cost you more, and you won't be able to use duplex outlets, which will increase your costs even more. Use regular 6-20. This outlet: https://smile.amazon.com/Leviton-5822-I-Receptacle-Commercial-Grounding/dp/B000U39UY4/ for example.

I got some ordinary 110V C13 Y-cables (i.e. one regular 110 plug, two C13 computer connections). Cut off the 110v plug, and replaced it with a 220v plug. (The C14 part is the same for both voltages - you can get them already made that way, it was just more expensive for some reason, so I made my own.)

This: https://smile.amazon.com/NEMA-6-20P-C13-Splitter-Cord/dp/B00CP6BYFC/ if you don't want to make your own. (There are probably cheaper ones, I didn't look very hard.) Edit: actually these: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00CP63IX8/ since you need 12AWG wire, not 14.

That way you can run 4 devices per duplex outlet. (Up to around 4amp each.)

/u/mikexli said an L3+ consumes 4.5A, so that's perfect - 4.5 * 4 = 18, which fits perfectly in a 20A circuit.

You don't need a PDU, that just increases your costs. Simply plug the L3+ in the way I describe and you are good.

Have the electrician run 1 circuit, with 6-20 duplex outlet, per 4 L3+. It's MUCH cheaper than running say, 1 50A circuit, or 30A, and using a PDU.

If you buy the outlets (electricians don't typically stock them in their truck, although they can get them if you tell him ahead of time), then the electrician can use ordinary 12/2 cable which they have mountains of, to wire it. This will save you money. Make sure to tell him to do a dedicated circuit for each outlet.

The "one GFCI in the garage for the whole house" thing is a phase that I thought ended with the introduction of the dedicated bathroom circuit requirement. Interesting to see it still in use, what exactly is it supplying power to? I mostly see deadfront GFCI in relation to jacuzzis. I'm wondering if it is really arc-fault protection.

It it is something that is supplying a circuit that would tend to get ground-faults, such as from hair appliances or refrigerator, or something known to be finicky like a treadmill exercise machine, then I'd strongly suggest running your new garage GFCI pigtailed to the "line" terminals on the other, not the "load"-side. It is no fun having someone else's actions elsewhere in the house shut off your saw mid-cut. Just because a GFCI can protect multiple downstream outlets on a circuit does not mean it is a good idea to use that feature.

Thank you for the response ithinarine!

>You normally don't get that kind of melting except for when the connections to the plug are loose. When you install a new one, make sure your wires are tightening down very well.

The connections were wrapped around the screw on the receptacles very tightly, there was no wiggle room

>Also, 1580W continuous load on a 15A circuit that only has a maximum of 1800W available is a HUGE continuous load for a 15A circuit.

Right, I am only using that 15a circuit only for this one purpose. And it has worked for months (Jan - April) of this year without a problem on a different receptacle.


Like I said the only difference this time around where the melting occured is when I decided to use a different receptacle and using a Belkin Wemo Insight smart plug to monitor the watt usage



Here is a video of my prying off the melted smart plug from Belkin Wemo Insight from off of my receptacle



Anyway, I plan to use this receptacle instead next time instead of this one that I used before


Should this help my cause?

If you're going the bulk route, here's some 20A ones for $7 per. Still not a lot more than a 15A.

I'd love to see where you're sourcing GFCI's at $5 per. I'd be more than happy to buy them at that cost just to have on hand for future projects.

My husband installed these auto-dimming outlet receptacles. He put one in the hallway and one in our baby's room. I thought they were kinda silly at first, but they've been really nice to have. I don't worry about turning lights on or off and they provide the perfect dim light.

Leviton T6525-W 15-Amp 125V AC Combination Decora Tamper Resistant Receptacle with LED Guide Light, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002NWPHR4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_4ytNwb16XE24V

mounts
Very sturdy.
Not an electrician. But I know how to wire outlets. Light switches/dimmers. It’s easier than it appears, but if you’re uncomfortable with electricity then call an electrician.
outlet.
I got the old work single gang box from Home Depot and the outlet cover there to. I think it was $10 or so for 2 sets (2 outlets+2 outlet cover+2 single gang boxes)
On the right. I tapped into the power that goes into the light switch directly underneath it. (If you do this this you need to make sure you get to the power BEFORE or same place where the light switch wire connects to the power. If you do it after, the speaker power will cut out when the light switch is off.) on the left there as an out under the picture. 14 gauge wire run up to the newly added outlet. What took the most time is cutting meticulous openings for the electrical box for the outlet(got to be neat). Then running wire does take some patience, but they a tool called fishing wire that makes it easier. YouTube videos can help if you don’t have the tool. Glad to answer more if you want to know more.

Search for keystone on Amazon. There are modular wall plates that can do HDMI, ethernet, USB, whatever. VGA isn't one of the modular pieces because it is too big, but you can get a plate with VGA + keystone like this.


I found this as well which includes power but not VGA. You could use that with a HDMI port, using an adapter to VGA if your monitors can't do HDMI.


The cheapest option would be something like this with however many ports you need, plus a few bucks each for the individual ports. Power would have to be separate.

Not to be too much of a debbie-downer, but dimmable outlets are against NEC code.

> NEC 406.15: Dimmer-Controlled Receptacles. A receptacle supplying lighting loads shall not be connected to a dimmer unless the plug/receptacle combination is a nonstandard configuration type that is specifically listed and identified for each such unique combination.


In my opinion, either you stick with a non-dimmable outlet, or you replace the outlet with a tamper-resistent outlet that only permits special plugs. For example, Lutron's HDTR recepticle, coupled with their plug (you would need to chop off the male end of your floor lamp and replace it).

Alternatively, there's Z-wave options available for plug-in dimmers, like this one by GE

Sure you can get away with it, but if your insurance company catches wind of it in the event of a failure, you can kiss any payout goodbye.

ideally i'd like to be able to mimic my Sigelei 100w and utilitze the batteries I have. 2x 18650's rated for 35A, 2500mAh in series.

Thought I rarely use it past 60w it's nice to have.

These are the parts I've bought thus far to start learning about everything I'd need to make this.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GHCJRJ0?keywords=SunFounder%20New%20Nano%20Project%20Super%20Starter%20Kit%20V2.0%20For%20Arduino%20UNO%20R3%20Mega2560%20Mega328%20Nano&qid=1449468314&ref_=sr_1_2&sr=8-2

http://www.amazon.com/14mm-510-Connector-22mm-Ring/dp/B01577XDM2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449468507&sr=8-1&keywords=V3+14mm+510+Connector+with+22mm+Ring

lmao thats great. At one point I had my router set on up one of these. No wifi required. Although my new router supports automatic restarts so I haven't had the need so far. Im sure in a few months it will turn to unreliable shit, per tradition.

I have the exact same Leviton USB outlet in our kitchen at home! Works great, and as other's have said, the H outlet supplies 2A so you can charge iPad's and larger devices. So much more convenient than having to use a wall wart and it took about 5 minutes to install.

Mine is installed on a GFCI-protected circuit and works fine, too - tripping the GFCI master outlet causes this one to go off as expected.

I got mine from Amazon for about $20: http://amzn.com/B008O11IEY?tag=amz-link-20

They work great, no issues. On both of our phones, they trigger the "charging rapidly" function. I got them from Amazon. Looks like the usb ports are rated for 4.2 amps.

Yes. Yes they are.

Dimmer.


Switch.

Question: If I was interested in a wall receptacle, would something like this be a good purchase? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FREZ8VE

Hmmm yes, lame. My outlet looks like this https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01FREZ8VE hopefully that like doesn't change

Yes, it is.

Firstly, it is not "like saying that micro USB replaced usb A". USB A was always the intended host-side port with micro USB being one of many device-side ports. USB C is the host and device side port.

But as USB ports in the wall are intended for charging, the much more important difference is in the charging standards supported. The USB C connector included a real charging standard not supported with USB A connectors. One can, of course, trickle-charge a USB C device from a USB A port with the appropriate adapter. But devices intended to charge via a USB C port do not ship with the old style wall wart with a USB A port. It is USB C on both ends of the cable. Because USB C is meant to replace USB A.


EDIT: TL;DR: I think you are giving poor advice because you don't know what you are talking about. If I were installing USB wall outlets I my house I would not install anything without a USB C connector. And manufacturers are making them with both because USB A is not a substitute for USB C.

If the location isn't specified by any codes, generally you can just use sound judgement for placement. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-688-W-Recessed-Receptacle-Residential/dp/B000U3BVRS/

It's a rule that requires fridges to have a dedicated circuit (and off the kitchen small appliance circuits). The exception allows you to power a clock off the same circuit. It's actually advantageous since mains clocks would stop with power loss, thus you could compare the kitchen clock against a correctly set clock. Subtracting the kitchen time from the correct time would tell you how long the fridge was without power.

most usb outlets are crap, but ther are a few good ones

this leviton is one:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07668S975

These are even nicer. You don't have to use a power brick, it just replaces the existing outlet.

I use this dimmer and the matching switches:
Leviton Dimmer

I've also heard good things about the GE dimmer:
GE Dimmer

I'd say it really comes down to personal taste in the switch appearance between those.

This one looks exactly like op's outlet and is 5V 4.2A

It's called a clock box, the outlet is slightly recessed so the clock can lay flat against the wall and still be plug in.
Edit:
Does it look like this?
https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-688-W-Recessed-Receptacle-Residential/dp/B000U3BVRS
Edit 2: the little metal piece is so the clock has something to hang on.

probably something like this

Came here to say this. I opted to install one with a pair of USB ports replacing one of the 3-prong receptacles, rather than the more common models with USB ports flanking the usual pair of receptacles (non-referral links to random products for reference). That way I know for certain I can plug in one "regular" thing (a wall wart for a cordless house phone in this case) and a pair of USB cords.

I have a galaxy note 2 phone that charges at about 1.7A so I have 2A chargers scattered everywhere(even a few wall sockets with 2A USB plugs), so I was looking at the microusb chargers on fleabay and thought about bypassing the DNA's charging circuit and extending the SMT LEDs somehow integrating them into the case. The DNA wouldn't know when it was charging, but I could get an amp worth of passthrough on it.

Used for a wall clock, back in the day.

Here is a modern version - you can see the little hanger hook at the top of the face plate.

Here's the Amazon link http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-T5630-W-Tamper-Resistant-Receptacle-125-Volt/dp/B008O11IEY/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1407759817&sr=8-7&keywords=usb+wall+outlet

They make 1ft power cords, called outlet savers, solely for this purpose. It's going to leave a mess of cables though.

Shop power strips have outlets extremely spaced out. Obviously at the cost of space and price.

Like you said a system in place would solve this mess, but it's difficult getting everyone to agree on changing their standard. Relevant xkcd.

I'm using those exact bulbs with https://www.amazon.com/dp/product/B005Y8JC6Q. Zero buzz or hum.

Just installed these! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FREZ8VE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I got one of these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005Y8JC6Q/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1#productDetails
It has a matching remote switch.

You could use these outlets instead.

I did not know anything about 0-10V when I bought these lights so I'm glad I found this out. Found this low voltage dimmer, think this will work?

https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-VRMX1-1LZ-Universal-Magnetic-Voltage/dp/B005Y8JC6Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466420347&sr=8-1&keywords=VRMX1-1LZ

https://www.amazon.com/TOPGREENER-TU21548AC-High-Speed-4-8A-24W-Receptacle/dp/B01FREZ8VE

https://www.amazon.com/TOPGREENER-TU21548AC-Resistant-Receptacle-Type-C-4-8A-USB-Outlet-15A/dp/B01FREZ8VE

See for example [this](USB C Outlet by TOPGREENER | USB Wall Outlet, Wall Outlet with USB C, TU21548AC 4.8A-24W Ultra High Speed USB Charger Outlet, 15A Tamper Resistant Receptacle, Interchangeable Face Covers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FREZ8VE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_hyytzbK553RGB) and [this](Anker PowerCore+ 20100 USB-C, Ultra-High Capacity Premium Portable Charger, 20100mAh External Battery, 6A Output Type-C Port for Macbook, Nexus, Nintendo Switch & PowerIQ for iPhone iPad & Samsung https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014ZO46LK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_vzytzb2EKE0Q1).

https://www.topgreener.com/type-c-usb-charger-outlet-quick-charge-3-0.html
https://www.amazon.com/Top-Greener-TU21548AC-Receptacle-Interchangeable/dp/B01FREZ8VE

Other option. from Leviton and includes the six quickports

It does look, um, non-standard. I went with this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0039UW92A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/TOPELE-LD-UR01-Resistant-Charger-Receptacle/dp/B019SPHRMG/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_60_lp_t_4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=WFXK3DMCZ5WZ30EB4K2S

Not sure if the exact model.. these newer usb wall outlets have the amps needed for a s7 or note or such. 4.2 amp out .

They usually come stuck together as one unit with 2 sockets - like this one on amazon

Sometimes you can get single outlets in one device box, but this looks like a double based on the location of the plate screw.

I have this one - https://www.amazon.com/TOPGREENER-TU21548AC-Resistant-Receptacle-Type-C-4-8A-USB-Outlet-15A/dp/B01FREZ8VE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1491405013&sr=8-3&keywords=usb+c+outlet

They also have this model - https://www.amazon.com/Charge-Charger-TOPGREENER-TU1152QCAC3-Devices/dp/B01N1T3IHF/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1491405013&sr=8-4&keywords=usb+c+outlet

Super easy to install. I had two defective units (anti-tamper failed closed) but they replaced no questions asked.

and yet he managed to link to the wrong ones... sigh

here ya go

http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-T5630-W-Tamper-Resistant-Receptacle-125-Volt/dp/B008O11IEY/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1407751653&sr=8-5&keywords=2.1+amp+usb+outlet

Is this what you're looking for?

I think wall outlets with integrated USB are a bad idea. The electric plug and socket has been standard for a long time and won't change any time soon. USB is a frequently-changing standard and the connectors do not last as long as electric sockets. Instead of powering off the circuit breaker to update to a new USB standard, simply unplug the AC adapter and plug a new one in.

Yes, they're new, and they're expensive: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FREZ8VE

Edit: I have not used, nor endorse this product. Use at own risk. The reviews show some worrying information, such as the type C port is not actually UL listed, and under resistive load shows dangerous temperatures.

Part of the point I am making is that it is UL listed, would be able to be installed commercially and by an electrician in new residential construction. Its not a Chinese piece of crap like all that stuff on ebay. Not all usb chargers can be taken equally either. You get what you pay for and a $10 usb wall plate charger is going to probably have pretty bad voltage ripple and the other problems that make crappy chargers crappy. If a client came to me and said I want usb ports in the wall this is what I would spec and I could sleep soundly at night knowing its not going to ruin his iPhone or burn his house down.

EDIT: http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-T5630-W-Tamper-Resistant-Receptacle-125-Volt/dp/B008O11IEY/ref=pd_sim_hi_10 heres a cheaper one too. Its pretty obvious its that expensive because they had to fit that transformer and everything for the USB in a decorator outlet and still retain the duplex plug.