Reddit mentions: The best table saw accessories

Makita corded orbital sander for sure, any good 10" portable table saw such as Dewalt 745 or Skilsaw SPT70WT-22 that can later fit into one of these, and a Dewalt 734 planer if you really think you need one.

On a budget, a jointer can probably wait. Most of the things you listed as wanting to build won't need it. You'll get a lot more use out of a router early on, and as a bonus a good router costs a lot less than a jointer, and they take up a lot less space. Milwaukee, Dewalt, Bosch, Makita, Rigid, Porter Cable and others all make good routers. Routers generally come in two sizes, standard and compact (aka palm or trim) size. I have a standard size Milwaukee 5615, and it works great. I'm planning on getting the Dewalt DWP611pk for my compact, mainly because it's a highly regarded router, and it comes with a plunge base.

You might consider, instead of getting a table saw, getting a good circular saw and using a guide to do your rip cuts. You can get a Skilsaw SPT77WML-22, a really long ruler and a couple of quick clamps and make cuts just as accurate as any table saw, though it takes a lot more setup for each cut. You don't even need the heavy-duty Skilsaw (I sometimes do this with my baby sized Milwaukee M12 circular saw) but getting a good, big saw now will save you from having to get something more capable later.

If you're serious about getting into woodworking or carpentry, do yourself a favor and get better tools. Ryobi is ok if you're only going to use it once a year, maybe (I understand quality has gone up recently, but still...). Even then I wouldn't trust the accuracy much.

If $500 really is a hard limit, I would focus on getting a circular saw, a router, a sander, some good measuring/marking tools and a crapton of clamps. As many clamps as you can get, big clamps, pipe clamps, quick clamps, right-angle clamps, belt clamps, everything. You will never have too many clamps. However many clamps you have divided by about 4 is the number of things you can have gluing together at once. Get lots of clamps.

Edit: be sure to have some money set aside for good saw blades. Finish-quality saw blades can be $50-100 just for the blade.

Hard to say for sure without knowing his shop, so you'd probably want to try to scope out any recommendations for specific stuff to see if he already has something similar before you buy.

A good suggestion that I think always works well for any budget is to go to a local hardwood dealer and just pick out a selection of interesting exotic lumber, any woodworker will always appreciate getting cool woods to use in their projects.

If you want to have some ideas for stocking stuffers / tools though I'll list some cool things that I think are not super common that I enjoy owning or make my life easier.

Tiny-T Pocket rule

6" precision t rule

A really nice miter gauge

Router setup bars

A nice marking knife

Marking gauge

Magports

Tapeboss

Grr-ripper

Dozuki & Ryoba

Alexa (Alexa, what is 5 and 3/8 times 16... Alexa set reminder for 30 minutes to spray the second coat... Alexa order shop towels... etc, it's actually really useful, and it plays music too)

Shop apron

Quick sanding strips

Digital Angle Gauge

Digital Height Gauge

Anything from Woodpeckers is pretty much guaranteed to be great, albeit kinda pricey

Others have mentioned making a splitter but you can also buy one. Microjig makes what's pretty much standard at this point: https://www.amazon.com/MICRO-JIG-SP-2-TK-SPLITTER-SteelPro/dp/B00B03PMY0

Having a good fence already, a zero clearance insert, and a splitter are pretty much the best things to do in terms of use/safety. The only other recommendation I'd give (looks like you've done this) is to keep the top cleaned and smooth.

For push sticks, stay away from stuff like this.

Instead, go for something like [this] (http://www.finewoodworking.com/pdf/Push_Stick.pdf), which you can make yourself. There are all kinds of designs actually, but having more surface area contact the wood is a good idea as it allows you to put more pressure on the wood to keep it in place, both downward towards the table saw and towards the fence and away from the blade.

You can make a featherboard, but you can get a good enough plastic one at Harbor Freight for 5 bucks.

You should get or make a zero clearance insert. Making them can be kinduva pain in the ass, so I would just order one from woodcraft for 20 bucks.

As far as riving knifes go, you could get away with a micro-jig splitter, which might be easier than finding old parts. This is what I did for my saw, also an older craftsman and it works pretty great.

Lastly, eventually you're gonna want to make a crosscut sled as this will make it a lot easier and safer to do crosscutting.

Yeah I forgot to mention push sticks. Generally I will use one if the rip is under 5" or so.

This is a good design: https://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/editors-blog/favorite-table-saw-push-stick

This is even better but expensive: https://www.amazon.com/GRR-RIPPER-Advanced-Pushblock-Jointer-MICROJIG/dp/B0037MEJ2I

Truly there are many important things to remember as far as safety goes. I definitely recommend watching videos. A

Zero clearance insert

Dado zero clearance insert

That dado stack is decent. Not great, but OK. This one is a lot better and the best bargain dado stack

Irwin Marples 50 tooth blade. Lowes sells these if you don't want to order online. I have a few dozen table saw blades. This is by far the best blade short of a Woodworker II or Tenryu Gold Medal.

If you plan on working with 5/4+ hardwoods, get a 24 tooth diablo rip blade. It makes a big difference

Start with one GR Rripper

if you don't have a dial indicator, get one. You'll need it to adjust for runout

Decide on dust collection. You'll need to install the shroud if you use it, or leave it off if you don't. It's a huge pain in the ass to install after the fact, but can be done. A shop vac isn't recommended, but if you decide to give it a shot, you'll need a 4" to 2.5" reducer. Something like this will keep up pretty well if you just wanted to bite the bullet.

Decide how you are going to cross cut. I prefer a sled, some like a miter gauge. The included one sucks.

Osborne EB3 or the Incra 1000/HD

Congrats! I have the same saw and love it! To make it even better, you may want to consider getting a zero clearance throat insert. I got one and it is a really nice, cheap improvement

https://www.amazon.com/Leecraft-DW-2-Zero-Clearance-Insert-DeWalt/dp/B0000223V9

If he is going to be using a table saw, one a GRR-ripper would be a good gift. I've been wanting one, but never pulled the trigger. This helps cut thin pieces on the table saw. Also generally safer than normal push sticks.

http://www.amazon.com/Micro-Jig-GR-100-GRR-Ripper/dp/B001I9UNWC

Another thing to go with many power tools is a magnetic feather block. This also helps keep things safe on power tools. It keep wood tight to a reference surface, helping accuracy and safety.

http://www.amazon.com/Mesa-Vista-Design-GRIP-TITE-Featherboard/dp/B0000223VF

With regards to making it more safe, you could get something like the Grripper. It's a pushblock that makes cutting smaller and thinner pieces a lot safer on the table saw. I just got one for myself, and I love it.

You can also use it with a router table, a band saw and a huge number of other ways too. It's a nice little tool.

I have a cheap table saw, and I am basically scared of it. I feel that if I had a griper that I might not be. I bought this shitty saw last year, and have only used it twice since, but I need it again for another project coming up. A garden bo, if you are interested. I currently only have 1 cheap plastic push stick that came with the saw, which by itself isn't even sufficient. So, I kind of need to buy another push stick regardless.

So, what do you guys think of it? Is it worth $60? Does it work well. Is it safer? Is there something better?

Here is a link to it,

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001I9UNWC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Here is the wood whisperer's video of it,

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nE9RE3CEz4E

I have a cheap table saw, and I am basically scared of it. I feel that if I had a griper that I might not be. I bought this shitty saw last year, and have only used it twice since, but I need it again for another project coming up. A garden bo, if you are interested. I currently only have 1 cheap plastic push stick that came with the saw, which by itself isn't even sufficient. So, I kind of need to buy another push stick regardless.

So, what do you guys think of it? Is it worth $60? Does it work well. Is it safer? Is there something better?

Here is a link to it,

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001I9UNWC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Here is the wood whisperer's video of it,

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nE9RE3CEz4E

I nominate /u/Glasspirate for [this 10.00 gift] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0037Z7D0A/ref=wl_it_dp_v_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1BE5CQNQKYRGQ&coliid=ILWPSHDMT376T) because he is cool and is a very positive person and /u/kratz5ive for [this 10.00 gift] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L9OPJIO/ref=wl_it_dp_v_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=16ATUS4UFAYN7&coliid=I294CI84TRYQCX) because he is super cool and nice.

I bought my saw on Craigslist and it was missing the factory stamped steel extension wings. I looked at replacement wings, and at $60 each I figured I could find something better.




These Sawstop wings are only a little more expensive and there was a review that said they could be modified. The new wings have a four hole pattern and the R4512 has 3. None of the holes line up and they are different sizes. I opted to drill and tap new holes in the R4512 as the 3 holes did not line up well on the new wings.


I used a 17/64th bit to drill the holes. I only had an SAE tap set, so I actually used 5/16th SAE tap with the M8 1.25 bolts supplied by Sawstop. The bolts fit in these threads perfectly. The left side of the saw is much more difficult to install because of the motor housing.


The Sawstop wings are almost the exact same length as the R4512. The bevel on the front is different from the saw, but it doesn't bother me. I'm hoping this will make the saw more stable and is a step up from the stamped steel wings.


Underside for anyone interested: http://imgur.com/gPZjvBP


I was also able to mount my crosscut sled on the side: http://imgur.com/xnhQACv

There are a lot of people, so common, basic knowledge I guess, that say drift is just a natural thing with regards to bandsaws.

People have come up with jigs and specialized pivot point fences (example 1, example 2) and there's a whole thread about it here on Reddit [which might be why this thread is no longer visible on r/woodworking ???].

Anyway, it is (or at least was when I was learning) pretty basic, standard technique or way of teaching how to use a bandsaw for newbies. Different bandsaws (especially older ones I guess) are harder to set up to minimize or eliminate drift. Everything from, like I said previously, special fences and jigs to blade guides, tires for wheels, and even riving pins (bandsaw equivalent of a riving knife on a table saw) have been made and sold to help "deal" with it. It's like a cottage industry or something.

I agree with most of what has been suggested here. A microjig Gripper, a better saw blade, the one that comes with the saw is crap. A dado set. He can make push sticks, I like the ones I made better than the store bought. You could also get him a gift card to a hardwood store or HD/Lowes so he can buy lumber or anything else he needs.

• Micro Jig Gripper
  
• Dado Stack
  
• incra v27
  
• Digital level/Angle finder for making sure your blade is at 90 or 45 degrees
  
  

Look for a micro-jig http://www.amazon.com/Micro-Jig-SP-2-TK-Splitter-Steelpro/dp/B00B03PMY0.

Splitters keep the saw kerf from pinching on the blade causing safety issues like kickback, or keep the piece between the blade and fence past the saw cut from riding up the blade and thowing the piece back at you. Some kickbacks can cause your hand to be drawn right into the blade.

Riving knives are even better but not available on some older models.

They are pretty important for safety reasons. They serve two purposes, keeping the cut piece pushed against the fence and keeping the cutoff piece from pinching closed and binding on the blade.

I have the 5100 and bought the dado insert off amazon. It looks like yours uses a different model, but this looks right for yours.
I use the Freud 8 in stack and your saw looks like it also takes 8 in diameter. That set is great.

I have the hold down attachment for my larger one and I really like it. It was quick to set up and worked perfect. It looks like the magnets that come with the one you linked to are the good ones, 150 lbs of holding power. If you are thinking of making jigs, that would be the way to go. Much cheaper than getting the magnets individually after the fact.

OK, yeah, it looks like there are at least two available through Amazon. I like the Leecraft one; has a cutout for a riving knife and well-reviewed. Pricier but worth it. :)

http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-Series-Table-Zero-Clearance-Insert/dp/B0077LMMHE/ref=pd_cp_hi_1

I found this product that you can use with a zero clearance insert. It looks like on closer inspection my saw can accept a riving knife but these seem pretty reasonable.

MJ SPLITTER Table Saw Safety Splitter and Riving Knife Alternative for Zero Clearance Insert https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L7KT6PM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_oUS5Bb7J7DGDB

Leecraft makes zero clearance inserts for that saw. You can pick them up on Amazon. You can of course make your own as you were saying, but I went with the pre-made, phenolic ones. They fit my saw perfectly and lasted for years. They make the one in the link below and a dado insert.


http://www.amazon.com/LEECRAFT-RIDGID-R4512-Zero-Clearance-Insert/dp/B0057EANZ6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1414356023&sr=8-2&keywords=rigid+leecraft

These are good too: https://www.amazon.com/GRR-RIPPER-Pushblock-Router-Jointers-MICROJIG/dp/B001I9UNWC

They can hold the peice and the offcut so that helps prevent kickback.

Take your time, cut slowly and keep your eye on the blade as if you push the price through to fast it won't like it.

Practice makes perfect. Good luck
Edit: spelling

This thing has been great: https://www.amazon.com/GRR-RIPPER-Pushblock-Router-Jointers-MICROJIG/dp/B001I9UNWC

I feel so much safer using it than I did using crappier push-sticks. The videos really show how you can use safely, and it's quick and easy to adjust.

These may help to get a better grip on smaller pieces. Learning with something big like a piece of 4x4, slowly, may allow you to learn the action of the router without worrying so much about holding it timidly. Small shallow passes makes a huge difference too. Less wood to grab and try to cut through. Try with the cutting part of the bit just barely off the table. Make a run see how it handles and then bring the bit up more. https://www.amazon.com/Bench-Dog-Tools-10-033-Push-Bloc/dp/B005HH1B9K

There are some kinds of aftermarket splitter-style solutions.

Like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/SPLITTER-Safety-Splitter-Alternative-Clearance/dp/B00L7KT6PM

I don't know how good that thing is in practice. Certainly not as good as a real solid riving knife/bladeguard combination, but maybe much better than nothing.

Without a riving knife, it's very easy to have horrible accidents.

Just a second of letting attention slip and the wood goes flying and maybe drags your hand into the blade.

With a riving knife and blade guard, you basically have to push your hand actively into the blade from the front.

Which happens, of course, but much less frequently then the kind of kickback-induced accidents that are so frequent without riving knives.

​

​

I'll never fault someone for erring on the side of caution, and it only has to save you once for the 2k to be worth it, but all you really need is something like this - where the blade passes under the tool.

http://www.amazon.com/MLCS-9167-Safety-5-Piece-Package/dp/B000M0AS9G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1381596612&sr=8-1&keywords=push+stick

WAY safer than a shop built thing and cheap. They work great.

Ha.. That is exactly why I got them. There are 2 that I have.
This is the MicroJig one - http://www.amazon.com/Micro-Jig-GB-1-GRR-Rip-Block/dp/B00DNX3N7S
And the other is the GRRRipper - http://www.amazon.com/Micro-Jig-GR-100-GRR-Ripper/dp/B001I9UNWC
If you can afford it, get the 2 pack of the GRR Ripper. I like that one best.

With the fence locked into place a short distance from the saw blade, and with the saw unplugged, take a measuring tape or ruler and measure the distance from one tooth at the front of the blade to the fence, then, rotate the blade so that tooth is now at the back of the blade and measure again. If the measurements are identical then your fence is square. That is the single most important aspect to getting use out of that table saw, aside from it actually running.

My fence was not consistently square so I made one that was. I also replaced the miter gauge with this. I also switched to a link belt. With the amount that I have to shorten the belt, every 3rd full belt that I buy should allow me to make a 4th belt with the leftovers. I have not replaced my pulleys with machined pulleys yet, but I'm not sure that I'll need to. I did also get a PALS kit as a precautionary measure. Leecraft makes some nice zero clearance inserts and Micro Jig makes a splitter insert kit that will help prevent your cuts from binding on the blade.

Aside from that, there are restoration video playlists on Youtube for the 113 series table saws in all their various sub-types.

Pair them up with a set of MJ splitters and it's a beautiful thing when you push that first board through the blade like buttah.

Good looking chair! My wife wants me to build he an Adirondack; did you find particular plans? Or make some yourself?

Also, for a quick fix until you get a router table, I've heard good things about the Bench Dog Bench Cookies. I just got a set myself but haven't used them for holding a small piece while I rout yet. Perhaps someone who has these can weigh in on how well they work.

Thanks, I’ve been looking into this. Anybody have experience with this (MJ SPLITTER SteelPro TK https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B03PMY0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_bmKyCbBQ5E1XN) product, seems easy to implement

Cross-cutting is easy enough, and so are sheet goods.
For ripping you'll want a featherboard and a push-stick. You could get a commercial push-stick like the Grr-ripper, or you could make your own. I prefer the "shoe" style from that page.

Avoid this- https://youtu.be/ZUZ8hRm7a8g

Make this- https://youtu.be/uE9f4bp_wm8

Thank God you had your riving intalled!

Invest in some safety equipment like this- GRR-RIPPER 3D Pushblock for Table Saws, Router Tables, Band Saws, and Jointers by MICROJIG https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001I9UNWC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_UZWFDb7PAEVH9

There's nothing saw specific about a push stick, and they are cheap and easy to find. Here's one I like:

http://www.amazon.com/Tool-Designs-10230-Power-Hands/dp/B001C4O92I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405315059&sr=8-1&keywords=table+saw+push+stick

Quite a few Kreg products seem to be dipping at both Amazon/Home Depot.

Their Kreg KMS7102 Table Saw Precision Miter Gauge System for $70 below the typical $150 caught my eye but I don't know if even at $80 it would be useful enough over my sleds.

This one is a goner.

Few other things:

Kreg PRS2100 Bench Top Router Table $144 (Normally around $250)

Kreg KMS8000 Precision Trak and Stops Kit $72 (Normally around $140)

Update: All gone.

I haven't looked at the Kreg KMS7102 Table Saw Precision Miter Gauge System yet, but I like that you can add a sacrificial fence and still use the flip stop.

I did look at the Incra MITER1000SE Miter Gauge Special Edition With Telescoping Fence and Dual Flip Shop Stop and INCRA Miter1000/HD Miter Gauge when I went to Rockler awhile back. Though these both have telescoping fences with dual flip stops, it doesn't look like you can add a sacrificial fence and still use the included fence stops. The sacrificial fence would help reduce tear-out.

I use this one from Amazon and love it. It's pretty big but I'm completely in control with my work.

http://smile.amazon.com/Tool-Designs-10230-Power-Hands/dp/B001C4O92I

I just bought one of these to try on my table saw: https://www.amazon.com/MJ-SPLITTER-SteelPro-Kerf-MICROJIG/dp/B003E623C0

At least for straight cuts using a zero-clearance table saw insert, I'm hoping it will make things a little safer.

For the really, REALLY lazy...

FYI, OP's design is excellent and his reasoning really, really sound. I have the one I linked to, because I find the rubber to give me even more control than the home-grown version, but you should at least use that.

I also have a GRIPPR, (which was an Xmas present). I find it too cumbersome to adjust and use for most things (hence the orange one above), but in specialized cases it's wonderful. Probably wouldn't spend the money out of pocket though. (I've been through 15 woodworking Xmases so far, so at this point I put really, really obnoxious stuff on my list).

well let's look at the amazon order I just made.

camera - $200

tablet - $180

shirt - $20

shirt - $20

heart thing for wife - $70

loppers - $30

bt headphones - $50

foodsaver - $100

jeggings (wife) - $20

bra (wife) - $30

plan weights - $10

socks - $10

That leaves me with another $260 to spend...

I'm going to delete the wife stuff and the socks...

and go $10 over by buying a PS4 - $400

I can buy games for it later

They'll definitely work, just be very careful with that old saw. I would suggest you add in a splitter.

MJ SPLITTER SteelPro TK https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B03PMY0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_YOMOBbGMGV4PH

Yeah, be really careful, I tried setting it on top of some bench cookies once when I was new, and I broke my router and ruined the wood, it was a big hunk too, always play safe!

You'd need to check the saw. If it doesn't, these little plastic things are very helpful: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L7KT6PM/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B00L7KT6PM&pd_rd_wg=z88nE&pd_rd_r=C7HZC8YSW2E73K7JEAE1&pd_rd_w=p8Tm1

You ever try anything like this?

http://www.amazon.com/Bench-Dog-10-035-Cookie-Grippers/dp/B0037Z7D0A/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1347067719&sr=1-2&keywords=woodworking

Was wondering if they work.

You can purchase off amazon as well. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000DD1BJ

Steve Ramsey likes the Gripper from Microjig: https://www.amazon.com/GRR-RIPPER-Pushblock-Router-Jointers-MICROJIG/dp/B001I9UNWC

You can get a blank plate on amazon. You might have to do a little retrofitting to the plate to get the riving knife to come up correctly.

http://www.amazon.com/Leecraft-DW-2-Zero-Clearance-Insert-DeWalt/dp/B0000223V9/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1425665422&sr=8-3&keywords=dewalt+dw744+throat+plate

To add to Tsuichendist's post, you can also make specialized sleds and jigs in order to make consistent cuts while keeping your hands well away from the blade.
Amazon sells a 5-piece push kit for about $26. You can also find aftermarket splitters, but they can be expensive.

I have the 4512, and the plates are extremely difficult to make on your own since it is so irregular and gets to be very thin on the sides. I tried and failed many times. Get one of these: Leecraft ZC insert Expensive for an insert, yes, but well worth it in my opinion.

Also, as others have said, you don't screw in the plates, the screws are there to level it. The plate sits on top of the screws.

One vote for GRR-Rippers.

Here ya go GRR-RIPPER 3D Pushblock for Table Saws, Router Tables, Band Saws, and Jointers by MICROJIG https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001I9UNWC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_TcSXBbPYTVK0F

https://www.amazon.com/Bench-Dog-Tools-10-033-Push-Bloc/dp/B005HH1B9K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501446368&sr=8-1&keywords=jointer+paddles

Push blocks I guess, just didn't realize they were called that.

Same here. My Gripper basically is unused because I cannot find myself comfortable enough to use it with my hands over the blade. I'd actually use my bandsaw to rip anything thinner than 1" (and use my drum sander or planer afterward. Anything wider and I'm using this Big Horn push stick which is stable. So basically, the Gripper is sitting there as paper weight :(

So here's some of what is on my list-- I just copied and pasted over. Some other items to consider would be new saw blades, a low angle block plane, clamps (you can never have too many clamps), featherboards, a table saw thin rip jig, a shop apron, 6 inch metal pocket ruler, keyless chuck for your drill press, and I think that about exhausts my ideas..

Hurricane HTC125 Large Dovetail Jaws ($40)

MJ Splitters for Thin Kerf ($25)

Harbor Freight Pockethole Jig ($50 after 20% coupon-- only buy if you have a coupon)

Coping saw ($5-25)

A pair of holdfasts ($35 +$10S&H)

Edit: Was on phone earlier, added links