(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best table saw accessories

Tuning a table saw

Leecraft makes a ZCI for old Craftsman tablesaws The depth on my table is 3/32" which is just shy of 1/8" but you should definitely measure the depth to make sure of the dimensions you need.

Aligning the arbors is easiest with a PALS kit

The false positives can be problem and the cartridges are somewhat expensive. I've seen a few guys trade them back for regular saws. When the patent expires maybe the prices will come down a bit, because it is a pretty nice tool.

Ha.. That is exactly why I got them. There are 2 that I have.
This is the MicroJig one - http://www.amazon.com/Micro-Jig-GB-1-GRR-Rip-Block/dp/B00DNX3N7S
And the other is the GRRRipper - http://www.amazon.com/Micro-Jig-GR-100-GRR-Ripper/dp/B001I9UNWC
If you can afford it, get the 2 pack of the GRR Ripper. I like that one best.

First off, make sure your fence is parallel to the blade and the blade is SHARP. I always measure from the blade to the fence before cutting at the front and rear of the blade to ensure it's parallel. Also use a good push stick.

If you don't have a roving knife, some table saws can have a splitter added to a zero clearance insert. They're about $30 and worth it.

If that's not enough, there are anti kickback devices you can use. https://www.amazon.com/Yellow-One-Direction-Anti-Kickback-Safety-Rollers/dp/B004CK5HOI

Part of an abrasive grinding wheel, as is used in handheld angle grinders and stationary cut-off saws. If you spin something fast enough, the centrifugal effect (not a force--lies!) will cause it to fly apart. In this case, the operator was wearing a full-face plastic shield, in which the piece is lodged.

Lots of people (I'm looking at you, me!) don't wear adequate protection when using power tools. Many of them wind up being quite amazed at how much damage a small fragment of cast-off material can do. Even a tiny piece of fast-moving debris can destroy an eye.

About a month ago I was using a router to cut a rabbet into an old wooden frame. I didn't realize that it was held together with large, square steel nails. Like a dumb-ass, I removed the clear plastic shield on one side rather than cleaning it properly. The router bit caught the nail, scooped off a chunk, and threw it at my throat, just next to my jugular. It penetrated to 4 or 5mm. Apparently, a lot of energy was imparted to the metal by friction, and it was startlingly hot. I was surprised at how much a small piece of very hot bit of metal hurt when shot into my neck. A lot more than the room temperature nail I once fired through my left hand. My girlfriend thought I was being a wuss when I jumped up and said, "OW! OW! OW! OW!" The fragment was still warm I squeezed it out. Now I kind of get why shrapnel is so problematic.

I probably shouldn't be allowed to use power tools, but I own a lot of them, so I just keep doing it. I finally got a set of GR-RIPPER wood handlers, though, so hopefully that'll help save me from my 60's-era machinery and my bad habits.

https://www.amazon.com/SawStop-TSBC-10R2-Cartridge-10-Inch-Blades/dp/B001G9MGZQ

$63 for the brake cartridge plus whatever the blade costs, a good 10" blade could cost $100 so $200 was a decent guess.

To be fair though those table saws can cost $10,000 if you get them industrial sized and all tricked out.

\> I just answered a post with this question.

And you kept answering with angle of declination and not angular velocity.

\> Perspective is linearly constant.

Yes, and that's why it doesn't match observation. The observed sun does not move in a linearly constant way. It move in an angularly constant way.

\> You're only assuming 15 degrees because you assume it moves in a circle around the observer

I'm not assuming. I'm observing. As I said in response, 15 degrees is an observation, not a calculation. Measure it yourself.

\> I'll have to figure if there's any way to measure if it's moving in a circular or straight perspective path.

The most direct way is to take a device similar to this miter gauge:

https://www.amazon.com/SKIL-Table-Replacement-Assembly-2610011708/dp/B00C1KDZCC/ref=sr_1_1?qid=1554171691&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_browse-bin%3A2801729011&s=power-hand-tools&sr=1-1

Mount it on something so that you can point the stick part at the sun. Log the time and angle. An hour later, move the stick to point to the new location of the sun. It should be 15 degrees change. And it will be 15 degrees throughout the day.

You could also use shadows. But you seem to have some weird ideas about how shadows behave, so I won't go into that.

\> There doesn't seem to be.

OMG, you're so fucking stupid.

If you're going to get a table saw, try to also get a folding stand for it. Something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-TS2000-Gravity-Rise-Wheeled-Table/dp/B00067IX1K/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1452321931&sr=1-2&keywords=bosch+table+saw+stand

They take up too much space for the use the average homeowner gets.

Yep! DeWalt contractor saw (7491RS) with a Freud dado stack. I believe it's the 6" stack. DeWalt sells a dado insert specifically for their portable saws so I picked up one of those, I think it was this one https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWE7402DI-Throatplate-10-Inch-Portable/dp/B00NJPUYGS/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1494083392&sr=1-1&keywords=dewalt+dado+insert

The brake is $65 and most of the time you'll want to replace the blade as well which is going to be anywhere from 50 to 150.

Get a piece of uhwm plastic or just cut up a white plastic cutting board...easier to sand and shape and dimensionally stable.

Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/UHMW-Strip-48-Peachtree-Woodworking/dp/B01IU6U1UE

I've starting using this stuff.

got google?

https://www.amazon.com/SKIL-Table-Replacement-Assembly-2610011708/dp/B00C1KDZCC

Edit: yes that's a tablesaw but it's a skil. Slots a slot, can't be that hard to find something the same width.

I bought a kit for it on amazon. https://smile.amazon.com/Leecraft-Zero-Clearance-Insert-Dewalt-Colors/dp/B0794FMX21/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1521482008&sr=8-1&keywords=dwe7480+zero+clearance+insert

I deviated a bit from the directions in that I took my jig saw and sawed to the end of the insert in order to make it so the riving knife is still usable with the insert.

Close to $60 to $80 now, from a quick amazon search.

https://www.amazon.com/SawStop-TSBC-10R2-Cartridge-10-Inch-Blades/dp/B001G9MGZQ/ref=pd_sim_469_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B001G9MGZQ&pd_rd_r=F4FZFQDDMY8B5D2MCR4K&pd_rd_w=yuck6&pd_rd_wg=Zb56s&psc=1&refRID=F4FZFQDDMY8B5D2MCR4K

Did a quick Google hunt, seems you can get a 10" SawStop cartridge as cheap as $70 on Amazon, but the specialty ones seem to be slightly more expensive.

Look at this too:
https://www.amazon.com/UHMW-Strip-48-Peachtree-Woodworking/dp/B01IU6U1UE

$69, plus a new blade.

http://www.amazon.com/SawStop-TSBC-10R2-Cartridge-10-Inch-Blades/dp/B001G9MGZQ

its a spring loaded chunk of aluminum.

https://www.amazon.com/SawStop-TSBC-10R2-Cartridge-10-Inch-Blades/dp/B001G9MGZQ

Put it towards a tapering jig. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BP7284I?pc_redir=1398010376&robot_redir=1

Don't sweat the riving knife. I use a Micro Jig. There is a new version for $40, but I have not checked it out yet.

Nope $70. https://www.amazon.com/SawStop-TSBC-10R2-Cartridge-10-Inch-Blades/dp/B001G9MGZQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541987400&sr=8-1&keywords=saw+stop+cartridge
Dado cartridges are a bit more expensive

I got this and it covers a lot of the bases.

Depth Gauge for Routers and Table Saws https://smile.amazon.com/Step-Depth-Gauge-Routers-Table/dp/B00OIE76B0/ref=sr_1_5?crid=3RK8Z5JO8Y6UT&keywords=router+height+gauge&qid=1556417364&s=gateway&sprefix=router+heigh%2Caps%2C247&sr=8-5

I would keep it. I recently bought the DW745 for the same price. I wasn't sure how much I would use it... now I wonder how I worked without one. Its portability was also a necessity for my lack of shop space. I am almost done building a detachable outfeed table; I will post it on here soon.

I would also recommend getting a featherboard. I got this Benchdog which is higher quality than the Milescraft.

You're confusing "blade cartridge" with "brake cartridge".

This is not a blade.

"Compatible with all standard 10 inch blades".

it is literally just a $US69 single component sensor that needs to be replaced - plus the cost of replacing the blade if the blade is damaged. (The blades aren't always damaged and usually don't need to be replaced)

https://www.amazon.com/SawStop-TSBC-10R2-Cartridge-10-Inch-Blades/dp/B001G9MGZQ

Yup. You blow a 70 dollar cartridge plus wreck your blade:
https://www.amazon.com/SawStop-TSBC-10R2-Cartridge-10-Inch-Blades/dp/B001G9MGZQ

It's not $1000 every time it fires... New saw-stop cartriges are about $80, and a new blade (which becomes destroyed in the process). So relatively cheap, considering you still have your fingers to count your $$$.

Not OP, but I sometimes use a jig for it. https://www.amazon.com/POWERTEC-71035-Table-Saw-Taper/dp/B01H1382NU? However if you don't have one, you can saw most of the waste of using a bandsaw (or ripsaw) and then plane the rest.

You do know that every time that is used, it destroys itself and has to be replaced right?

Imagine that on a scale like an escalator where anyone who happens to press a button causes thousands and thousands of damages.

edit: $100 replacement , i'm thinking a scale of hundreds of thousands for a similar setup on a large scale

edit2: you could probably buy a whole new escalator for hundreds of thousands, idk how much the cost would be

While you can cut aluminum with ordinary woodworking tools, it makes a hecka mess and the chips are nasty sharp. And by the time you’ve got a big enough, thick enough piece, you aren’t that far off a store bought plate.

A phenolic plate from amazon is only $26 and comes with hardware
https://www.amazon.com/DCT-Universal-Router-Insert-Inches/dp/B077383KDP/

If you are going to mostly leave it table mounted and don’t need any fancy stuff, you can just screw it to a piece of 1/2 plywood. There are many videos on this on YouTube.

My dad ended up putting a hinge with a board about 1x2 over the power controls. Drill a big enough hole to put your finger through to power it on, then a dowel or screw just over the off button. The board ran to the ground so all he has to do is slightly kick the end of the board to shut off the saw. Really simple and cheap way to hit the stop button quickly.


If you haven’t seen them already, there’s a product called sawstop.
SawStop TSBC-10R2 Table Saw Brake Cartridge for 10-Inch Blades https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001G9MGZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_61biAb9WAWE8Y
I think this is amazing. If you watch videos and look at their Instagram page you’ll see how they work and people that have had them work. You’re left with basically a scratch. It completes a current when you touch the blade then jams and aluminum block to the blade stopping it and then sucks the blade down. I don’t know which saws it fits though and the only other draw back is you need a new blade after and it may trigger on wet wood.

You can buy replacement brake cartridges (the only part that gets destroyed and needs replacing) on Amazon for 70 bucks. https://www.amazon.com/SawStop-TSBC-10R2-Cartridge-10-Inch-Blades/dp/B001G9MGZQ So the initial investment is having to buy the Sawstop at whatever price the guy is charging for his custom saw but after that it's only 70 bucks per finger not lost. Not a bad deal. Also he only makes the saws himself because he has to because no hardware company wanted to take on the risk of his idea potentially failing one time on one of their saws and them having to deal with the lawsuit. He never wanted to manufacture saws but when no one else would take it on decided it needed to be available to people and took it upon himself to do so. I saw a Youtube video about the SawStop once and then went down a bender of videos regarding the product because I thought it was so cool.

I just picked up the DWE7491RS and it seems as nice as any cabinet saw my Grandpa ever had. Granted it won't compete with the extreme high end, but it holds it's own with many ~$1000 saws. I didn't even really need to make adjustments, everything was dead on out of the box. Only minor inconvenience is the lower rip capacity. 31.5" has been a little restricting a couple times but I figured something out.

No issues with power, although the worst I've tried so far is 3" cedar.

They offer a dado throatplate. Well reviewed but I haven't tried it yet.