Reddit mentions: The best toggle clamps

I'm pretty sure this Bessey horizontal inline is right around the same spec. The slot mounts are 1.3 to 1.89 inches wide, soooo... 32ish to almost 50 mm, which I think is right since their product looks like it uses 4080 double width extrusion to my eye. There's also a slightly smaller Bessey clamp that should fit 2040 or 3060 if that's what you happen to have, and I'm sure similar clamps would also work. That's the great thing about extrusion; it's like grown up Legos or Mechano :-)

Just as an aside, when I am looking for some dohickey or thingimabob and have absolutely no idea what it is called, I'll often just google a general term like 'types of clamps' and start scrolling through images until I see something close, then follow that trail, often using Amazon's "also shopped for" until I get to actual manufacturers and data sheets. I honestly had no clue what those things were called either until I went looking a couple of weeks ago after being inspired by that same site and having the same sticker shock. I'm glad it might help someone out, but I also hope that those with the means or less free time will support Monster Tech for their ideas. Were it not for the obscene shipping which they have no control over, I feel like they are actually selling a well crafted product at a fair price; those aluminum plates alone would be pretty pricey to custom order.

I was considering a knock down top...one or two piece made from plywood. Two piece would lock together like leaves of a table using this http://www.rockler.com/align-n-lock , but come apart for compact storage. To lock down to the table, I would use toggle clamps like these...http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004JWGYIM/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1408050140&sr=1-1

I'm not sure how to protect the felt from getting torn at the joint line, though, while keeping the surface flat.

Rails and arm pads, cup holders, speed felt...the works. I'd probably make it to fit a 6ft buffet table overhanging all sides so no one is stuck with folding legs where their knees should go.

I think that this would be a better use of space than a dedicated gaming table...and there's no way I could convince my wife that I should make a dining room table that doubles for games :(

I'd like to not duplicate anyone's mistakes who's already tried something like this, but maybe I'll be the first.

For those interested, here's a pic of the inside.

Here's a list of my mods.

• Grommet on the side for probe access: So handy! The most useful mod. I used this titanium drill bit to create a hole large enough. It took me about an hour of sweating my butt off with the drill to make the hole. I feel like this mod is a must because if you use any kind of probe this will be a lifesaver. Constantly closing and opening the lid of the smoker with the wire in the way will eventually damage the wire. With this grommet bypassing the door entirely, you don't risk damaging the wire anytime you open or close the lid. If your hand slips when opening the lid and the lid slams down, it can CUT the probe wire! Lifesaver indeed.
  
• Lavalock Thermometers x2: I bought two of these for both sides. Tested them for accuracy with boiling water and they work pretty great.
  
• Lavalock Gaskets: I used these to seal the lid of the main chamber. It helps create a seal for lower smoke leakage.
  
• Clamps: These make 100% sure you are airtight when smoking. When used together with the gaskets, I get virtually no leakage from the main chamber. One annoying thing though is that the clamp installed on the side of the fire chamber can get in the way of you opening and closing the fire chamber lid. But, overall I'm happy with them, especially for longer cooks.
  
• High Temp Silicone Caulk: This is a MUST. The areas around the smoke chamber leak smoke SO MUCH. I've used it to seal around every nook and cranny of the fire chamber and it's done wonders.
  
• Water pan: Not sure if this counts as a mod, but it's just a simple steel water pan.
  
• Oklahoma Joe Firebox Basket: The reverse flow smoker came included with this. I think the regular Highland Smoker does not have it. In my opinion, it is extremely helpful in maintaining heat throughout your cook and makes the temperature fluctuate less.

That galvanized toggle clamp isn't going to look nice for very long, but otherwise, it looks good. It'd be nice to find a stainless alternative to use.

Get a board with a straight factory edge on it like a sheet of plywood. Get two clamps that you can screw into the plywood like these: POWERTEC 20301 Horizontal Quick-Release Toggle Clamp, 500 lbs Capacity, 225D https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004JWGYIM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_j9fRzbADAJK23. Then, all you do is clamp the wood you want to square up to the plywood, and then run the straight plywood edge along the fence of your table saw. This process will transfer the factory straight edge to your 2x2.

You can easily and safely cross cut on a table saw if you build a panel cutting jig which is just two pieces of plywood with some hardwood runners. Hell get some of these clamps: http://www.amazon.com/POWERTEC-20301-Horizontal-Quick-Release-Capacity/dp/B004JWGYIM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1453850395&sr=8-3&keywords=toggle+clamp

and put it on the fence of the sled and you get a really nice secured hold down. And best of all your work piece is not rubbing against your tabletop at all with really no chance of binding.

I just bought these plans from Gregory Paolini and built the jig. Here's a video (poor audio) of a guy using it.

Here's my build: http://imgur.com/a/5G8TT, which I just completed last week. I bought a Whiteside spiral up cut bit which has been amazing so far on my test cuts. I bought some 36" and 24" of this t-track, this set of Incra knobs since I didn't have any and didn't want to make from scratch on the band saw, and a couple of these toggles.

I don't have a good way to mount my dust collection cart yet, but I'm still tweaking it. So far, I'm really happy with the jig.

Yeah, I think you could do that easily. You'd want to put some holddowns on it to keep your piece in place.

Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/POWERTEC-20301-Horizontal-Quick-Release-Capacity/dp/B004JWGYIM/ref=pd_cp_hi_2

Its Solid black walnut. yes they are tapered. i built a taper jig with these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004JWGYIM/ref=oh_details_o08_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 really nice, highly reccomended.
then router table with roundover bit.

I've thought about those as well, but the only ones I trust are the kind with the release lever (ie: these). And I haven't seen any that are $20 for a pack :D

I guess you mean the red ones, not the blue ones (since those are at Lowes): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BR75WFW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They've been really handy for all sorts of jigs lately. I am sure you can get better ones, but these are cheap and work well, except it's kind of fiddly to adjust the position of the clamp face.

For Addams Family I used these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004K5YW0K/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The clamp handle side was hidden on the back or up behind the railing, and the hook side is very small and easy to hide. The advantage I found with these was that you can very quickly line up and clamp the set pieces, which I always find hard to do with coffin locks. They are not as inconspicuous as coffin locks (they are in fact quite bulky), but you can design the set to hide them. You also do not need a tool to disengage or lock them.

I also did not use wagon brakes, since the set was danced on and I did not want it to move at all, so I placed blocks under the set to get the wheels off the ground when it was in place.
I have yet to find a good wagon brake that will really hold a set of stairs.

Yeah, something like this

Looking to make a jointer jig for my table saw, saw these toggle clamps when getting wood at woodcrafters this weekend - $21 each, but just saw this two pack on amazon for $15 total. Any reason I shouldn't go for the amazon ones?

either a toggle clamp or a clamp latch, either of these should put enough force on the lid to create a seal if you've already added rtv and gasket tape

KantTwist Clampskant twist amazon link

Or Irwin Vise grip clamps

Thanks. Here are the clamps I used:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B004K60H08/

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Everything else I got from ZYLtech. Note that I have no affiliation with them, just a happy customer.

2 * 1m long 2040: http://www.zyltech.com/zyltech-2040-anodized-aluminum-extrusion-pre-cut-lengths-300mm-2000mm/

Rubber strips: http://www.zyltech.com/flexible-rubber-extrusion-strips-for-20mm-aluminum-extrustion-black-or-blue/

1 pack of inside angle brackets: http://www.zyltech.com/t-slot-l-type-90-degree-2020-inside-bracket-12-pack/

1 pack of outside corner braces: http://www.zyltech.com/12x-90-20mm-aluminum-brace-angle-bracket-for-2020-extrusion-black/

1 bag of M5 hammer nuts: http://www.zyltech.com/100x-zyltech-hammer-nuts-t-slot-for-2020-aluminum-extrusion-m4-or-m5/

1 bag of M5x8 screws: http://www.zyltech.com/100x-zyltech-m5x8-and-m5x10-button-hex-screws/

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I'm going to go back and add a corner brace at the top of the upper clamping piece as it's tending to rotate up when I clamp, and I need to make a lower clamp pad, which I will probably make out of wood since I have lots of it.

https://www.amazon.com/Bessey-STC-IHH25-Horizontal-Auto-Adjust-Clamping/dp/B0057PUFMG

This is what I ordered after watching the Monstertech videos and research. Now to order my 8020.

I ended up buying the aluminum extrusions and the clamps and I am in the process of making my own version of the MonsterTech mounts.

• 2 x Bessey IHH25 clamps
  
  
• 1000mm of 20x80mm V-Slot rail
  
  
• 8 x Hidden Inside Corner Brackets
  
  
• A pack of Tee Nuts
  
  
• A piece of 5/8" thick plywood to make the base plates for the HOTAS controllers.
  
  I haven't finished mine, but I will post an album when I do. I still need to mount the plates.

You can also use toggle clamps: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004K62H6K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_Kz8JwbPGAGRW6

These are the clamps I used.

I'm building 2 of these mounts https://youtu.be/O8ioj6lz4cY
The main change I'm making is the clamp by swapping out the Bessey clamp for this one: https://www.amazon.com/POWERTEC-20304-Quick-Release-Toggle-Capacity/dp/B004K60H08/
Since I'm also in the US, I bought the other hardware bits from Adafruit.

latch link

Toggle clamps.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01BR75WFW?psc=1

Toggle clamps. Usually used by woodworkers for holding work in a jig.

Some of the parts you want are on Amazon.com.
For instance, here is the clamp that Monstertech uses on its desk mounts.
https://www.amazon.com/Bessey-T24248-Inline-Toggle-Clamp/dp/B007UM56YG

The main problem is that many of the names are different on your side of the pond.

The key words you want with Amazon are
aluminum profile
T slot extrusion

Also include the cross-section dimensions you want: 80x40, 40x40, etc otherwise you end up with 10x10mm makerbeam intended for homebuilt printing arrays.

I replaced it with this

It works great, but ended up removing the whole clamp out of the bumper to have it sit right with no rattle

Link for the lazy.

DE-STA-CO 341-R Pull Action Clamp with Threaded U-Bolt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006NC6AI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_xoIjxbP7KH7FQ

if you're that worried just change the clamp

https://www.amazon.com/Bessey-toggle-horizontal-flanged-STC-IHH15/dp/B00GO0ONYE/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=bessey+Push+Pull+Toggle+Clamps&qid=1566118481&s=gateway&sr=8-6

Be much faster than sending all way back to Germany

Well, this is gonna be weird, cause I used portions of things I already had, but...

MDF sheets of 13"x8' were $9.99 - I'd argue this used 2' of that, so $2.50
The T tracks, knobs and bolts were exactly half of a 4 foot set from Rocker ($25) - http://www.rockler.com/17-piece-universal-t-track-kit and I used 1/2, so $12.50 (but I am using 2 bolts, and 2 handles, so less than 1/2 the parts, ill call it $10)

The clamp downs were Amazon - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004K5WWPW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER - $10 for two.

So $22.50 ?

You can make something out of wood for a hell of a lot cheaper than that. And you can get that same type of clamp they use off of Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/MSI-PRO-MSI-302F-Quick-Release-Toggle-Clamps/dp/B0000224BL/ref=sr_1_26?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1498589288&sr=1-26&keywords=toggle+clamp