(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best material handling products

I'm also not a fan of cutting, but I don't have a machine to help me out. Things that have helped me get better at cutting and not dread it as much are:

• I got one of those handy gripper things for my ruler. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CE8J7E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It really helps my ruler stay straight and my shoulders aren't as tired when I'm done cutting.
  
• I put on my favorite music and just get going and singing at the top of my voice while cutting, which makes the time go be faster.
  
• When I do get tired, I take a break. Have a cup of tea, a cookie, sit and play on the computer - whatever takes me away from the cutting table.
  
• Iron my fabric nice and flat and straight so I know I'm starting with the crispest lines possible.
  
• Clear off a surface where I can stack my strips so I have a real feeling of accomplishment.
  
  Hope these tips help! Because "they" are correct when they say accurate cutting makes the rest of the piecing process look better!

Even without a bumper-mount winch, it's not a bad idea to have one of these and a quality strap. Those may not be as "classy" nor as long-spooling as a bumper mounted winch but our dads and grandfathers did an awful lot of work with them, they do still serve a purpose and better to have one than to have nothing.

If you don't have any other kind of winch, it's not a bad idea to know how to make a flip-flop winch out of some branches - may never save your bacon but knowledge is something you can carry around for free without taking up any space or weight.

Any rope or strap you intend to use should not have any knots in it, knots reduce the strength drastically. Keep them clean and put them away with care. Ropes and straps must be considered consumable goods, they do not last forever and when they reach the end of their safe working life must be retired or permanently repurposed to a lighter duty task.

Looks like I don't know how to use reddit... so coment. first time poster here not english native...

Recently thanks to the show forged in fire i've decided to try and make a knife and wanted to share It.

It's not the most beautiful thing ever but looks like a knife and cuts so I'm happy, in fact I'm so happy and proud that I want to try to forge more things so, what do you recomend for starters? I whould love to make an axe but I dont know if its to difficult for a begginer specially considering that the only iron/steel I have easy acces to is rebar and i whould have to forge weld it into a more usable piece.

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Also the anvil I borrowed will be no more so I looked into a webpage that recomended this anvils wich are in my budget. you know if they are any good or a waste of money?

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https://www.amazon.es/ENERGYHit-1000-Yunque-profesional-Ancho/dp/B00LCQTYMQ?SubscriptionId=AKIAINNXJ6O5RJZV4YEQ&tag=compraryunque-21&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B00LCQTYMQ&keywords=yunque%2010%20kg

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https://www.amazon.es/Mannesmann-M-710-10-Yunque-10/dp/B0002YYLD6?SubscriptionId=AKIAINNXJ6O5RJZV4YEQ&tag=compraryunque-21&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B0002YYLD6&keywords=yunque%2010%20kg

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https://www.amazon.es/Sealey-ANV11-yunque-11-kg/dp/B00S17WJZS?SubscriptionId=AKIAINNXJ6O5RJZV4YEQ&tag=compraryunque-21&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B00S17WJZS&keywords=yunque

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Thanks

All WorkMates are NOT equal. You want a WM425 or better if you're going to try to do any serious woodworking. It's far more substantial and stable than the lesser models.

amazon link for the WM425

Or the WM1000

Or best of all, find a GOOD one on craigslist from the 70's back when they were built like monsters.

Dust collection: Personally, I wouldn't waste time running 4" for the main ducting run in your shop. The pipe diameter will be the bottleneck in your system, and if you ever want to upgrade to a bigger DC, it will basically defeat the purpose. Use 6" for the main line and branch 4" line(s) off to tools. It's better to run 2 4" lines per tool than one (often that means one to the cabinet and one by the blade). That way if/when you upgrade to a real 3-5hp dust collector, you won't be redoing it all.

Table saw fence: Get a new fence. T-square/biesemeyer style is good and there are aftermarket options in that area. I can't speak to mounting on your particular saw, but I'm guessing it's doable if you're willing to drill some holes. Maybe even with no drilling. All depends on the details.

Milling lumber: yes, a thickness planer is a great place to start. I'd pay $300 for this one before buying from harbor freight: http://www.amazon.com/Steel-City-Tool-Works-40100/dp/B0055NKCGO

Epoxy: West systems makes great stuff.

It's thin but not that thin. Car sheet metal is often 20-22 gauge. I consider 16 gauge relatively easy to weld with mig. If you make it too heavy you won't be able to move it. I think your design is pretty over-kill unless you plan on putting really heavy things on top of the table.

https://www.amazon.com/TRINITY-TLS-7202-Wood-Table-Black/dp/B0170F49AO

I'm not suggesting you buy this but examine it and see how much weight capacity it has for a minimal amount of metal. Are you planning on putting 2000lbs on top of your bench?

Get yourself the best caulk gun money can buy:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002CKG1O/?coliid=I23KHK4DH0YA78&colid=1QHLIPBFWAIV0&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

A really functional worksurface. like really functional.
https://www.amazon.com/Disston-30140-OmniTable-Portable-Bench/dp/B072MMSMNC/

The best markers out there for general use. the cap alone makes them great.
https://www.amazon.com/RevMark-Industrial-Markers-Pack-Starter/dp/B07B4HW3P7/

For an outfeed table, this might work (see link below). I am in love with it! It doesn’t wobble (unbelievably), supports 300 lbs), and folds up compactly. I’ve done carving and wood burning in my apartment living room, brought it down to my boyfriend’s to do some woodworking, and thrown it into the RV to basically run a kids’ makerspace on his daughter’s front porch, 700 miles away.

Since I have two, my new plan is to take two 2’x4’ pieces of 3/4 ply, and hinge them together, so I can unfold it over two tables and make a bigger portable bench. Haven’t gotten there yet.

https://smile.amazon.com/WORX-WX066-Sidekick-Portable-Table/dp/B072X4T8BF/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=worx+table&qid=1567862349&s=gateway&sprefix=worx+table&sr=8-4

Just so you know, I DO also have their sawhorse table, but I don’t find it nearly as useful, mainly because it is heavier and bulkier. But that’s just me.

https://smile.amazon.com/Pegasus-Multi-Function-Sawhorse-Clamps-Holding/dp/B01HREBZ3M/ref=pd_aw_fbt_469_img_2/143-3971518-1701924?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01HREBZ3M&pd_rd_r=adf87104-406d-4d93-84ac-05bdeb35156f&pd_rd_w=TtU7g&pd_rd_wg=r2TTH&pf_rd_p=3ecc74bd-d08f-44bd-96f3-d0c2b89f563a&pf_rd_r=CTZDX0WGE7BCEZ5V8QB2&psc=1&refRID=CTZDX0WGE7BCEZ5V8QB2

Know that you can link two or more tables together, or even the table with the sawhorse, though that is annoying, because while they are the same height, they are not the same dimension.

Hope this post helps!

Also, think about a jigsaw. It’s not as clean a cut, but with some guides and some practice, a straight line is possible, and you can also cut curves. It might be more bang for your buck, and a space saver. I’m not saying it compares to other saws...but for your particular situation, the DeWalt 20v cordless one may be a good quality purchase.

OP delivers!

We had originally considered purchasing a vehicle lift, but they were much more expensive, required a lot of headroom (the garage ceiling is only about 8'4" high), and would have required us to change the garage door tracks and opener to let it clear. This was a much simpler (and cooler) solution.

Many parts were purchase from Amazon, so I provided links so you can take a look.

Parts:

• Winch
  
  
• Pulley
  
  
• Carabiners
  
  
• Snatch blocks
  
  
• Rope hoist
  
  
• Hydraulic Vehicle Moving Dollies
  
  
• 3/16 (840LB capacity) steel cable
  
  
• Cable clamps
  
  
• Cable 'eyes' (keeps the cable in a nice curve when going around the carabiners)
  
  
• Lag bolts
  
  ==================
  Details:
  
  I had access to the studs and rafters as we removed the drywall to remodel the garage, so I was able to use 2x4s and 2x12s to strengthen the areas where the eye hooks were secured.
  
  I built these pivoting support blocks to keep the axle from taking any of the load. I put carpet on the blocks to keep them from scraping the new garage floor.
  
  I use these dollies to position the trailer to be hooked up to the pivot blocks.
  
  I use the rope hoist to make the raising and lowering of the trailer a one person operation. You need to pull the trailer away from the wall to get it to start lowering and also need to steady it on its way up so it doesn't fall into position too quickly.
  

I almost bought that kit, heard great things. Ended up with a great deal on this https://www.amazon.com/BenchPro-Roosevelt-Heavy-Garage-Butcher/dp/B0041HH2D6?th=1 i got it on Jet for around $130 with a coupon.

I just picked mine up from Harbor Freight, $99.99, but with a 20% off coupon from their site I got it for $80. Works great for my purpose. If you’re not near a Harbor Freight, here’s the same thing on amazon for a little more.

Link: WEN WB4723 48-Inch Workbench with Power Outlets and Light https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HFTF8WT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9x3jDbV2VEFD1

winch is a cool idea..not sure if the stop and start will be instantaneous or will it just pull into the ceiling too tight...that is my only concern.....

I've found

https://www.amazon.com/Overhead-Electric-Hoist-Garage-remote/dp/B00WBVUC3G

Which should work well.

Was hoping to play around a bit with a RasberryPI and make it work by voice and iPad/Web so that is what I was looking at motors.

If you have a workbench like this...

http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-WM225-Workmate-450-Pound/dp/B0000302VO

It should be no issue to solidly clamp the barrel right at the front sight which will make a massive difference. I am sure that many issues that folks have with removing 10/22 sights are the result of not being able to clamp the barrel down solidly or clamping too far down the barrel resulting in a lot of the impact energy being lost.

Mine came off with about five solid strikes with a steel punch. Make sure you drive out the sight in the right direction as I believe the dovetail is tapered.

Bonus...if you buy the Workmate , it is a also great portable reloading bench.

So we got one of these and some of these and it pretty much solved our storage crisis.

It depends what kind of space and budget you have but these were great for us, specifically the bin-box cabinet. We just labelled and put everything in it's own bin. We also put cables on the doors, each in their own tiny bin, so we have 2x5 rows of display port, 2x5 rows of vga, etc.

It's actually a Gladiator Garage Workbench. It's not very adjustable, but it's a great sturdy workbench.

66-1/2" Wide Hardwood Workbench https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07775X3NL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_8-GwDbJ3BKESS

I wouldn't call that "safely". At least, not with any come-along that I've ever seen. Have your hand slip on the main handle while the safety latch is disengaged and you're going to have a very bad day.

Agree with /u/bobeboph, a chain hoist with a level handle is the way to go here. Something like this

> drywall stilts

Thank you so much for mentioning these. I made a fairly detailed Grim Reaper costume years ago that's lacking in one department (my height) and was ready to look into making some sort of painter's bucket contraption to compensate. For under $100 @Amazon I'm definitely looking into a pair. Thanks again!

Is that this?: http://www.amazon.com/Windsor-Design-Workbench-Drawers-Hardwood/dp/B008MXLDHQ

Looks awesome.

I am looking at something like this for myself.
The Quick Bench folding wall mounted workbench with 20" x 48" collapsible butcher block solid wood top Clear UV Finish or Unfinished https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NAY04LG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ITKPCbXKXY7S2

Consider using the space at roof level. I lift my RTT to the garage ceiling using a Harken Hoist.

Have had mine for a couple of years now with a load of use. Still good as new excepting the bug spatter across the front.

Here's one that's good for 200#

monitor mount

work table

lamp

hourglass

computer (like this, but a couple years older specs)

printer

I am getting this in the mail tomorrow. I can let you know how it works. It has the helical cutter heads instead of three blades which gives a longer life between switching. EVERYONE seems to have the Dewalt, but the research I've done doesn't seem to match up with the expanded price tag.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0055NKCGO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I used to store my truck camper shell in my garage in a similar fashion:


https://www.amazon.com/Harken-Utility-Dinghy-Hoisters-Hoister/dp/B000K16FIK/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=camper+shell+hoist&qid=1557409307&s=gateway&sr=8-2

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Holds up to 200 lbs and it's simple/easy to raise/lower.

You can buy the construction style ones for under $100, like these. I have long wanted a pair too!

TEKTON 5546 4-Ton Power Puller - $39.00 - just attach the tow hook in the tool bag to the front bumper and drag it into the garage.

Maybe get a handle for your rulers? I bought one of the Gypsy Grippers , and its been so much less painful for my wrist.