(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best triple square drive sockets

Here's Mopar's instructions for removing the front fascia. Just disregard the part of the instruction about removing the chrome grill surrounds (that has nothing to do with what you're doing)

Tool for putting in plastic pop rivets

plastic pop rivets

replaceable rivet clips - not really necessary as you can re-use the ones you take out. But good to have handy.

Trim removal tool - not completely necessary, but helps to have them and prevents scratching things

at 10mm deep socket - this is necessary to get 2 nuts that are stuffed up in the fender. You'll also need a long extension to get to those

It took me about 5 hours to do start to finish, by myself in my garage. Only help I had was lifting the front fascia off (my wife helped) because you really need 2 people lifting (one on each end) to get it off without breaking anything. If you have someone to help you, you can get it done in much less time

I don't know what kind of work you do, I do everything, and once in awhile these save the day. They aren't tools I use often but they make life easier sometimes

Screw Extractor set

Knipex Plier Wrench

Klein tube cutter

Deep sockets in small case with an Impact Adaptor

Klein cct finder

Ah very helpful. Thank you.

Would this work then? - http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-1220-Socket-5-5-12mm-Sockets/dp/B000NPUJF8/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1419749795&sr=8-5&keywords=Metric+socket+6mm

Set This is the best I could find on amazon. For my self I have multiple individual sets

A breaker bar along with an appropriately-sized deep 6pt socket (19mm is most cars these days) should fit in your trunk no-problem and will kick the shit out of a tire iron. Should still be able to remove the wheels even if you accidentally let jiffy lube rotate your tires and they didn't bother with an appropriate torque stick.

So this is basically what I need then correct? https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/cr/B0076HIHF0/ref=mw_dp_cr

Hopefully I can find one somewhere else with free shipping for cheaper cause I can't imagine paying that much to remove my plug! I got under there yesterday and turned out I needed something like that for my drain plug as well, which is located at the back of the transmission on the bottom. I read in most places that it's on the side or bottom but mine is on the very back and on the bottom

I have used this filter wrench on my 2014 prius:

https://www.amazon.com/Motivx-Tools-Filter-Wrench-Engines/dp/B00Y5JWW1W

with this 27mm socket:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NPPCH8

It has worked pretty well for the 2 oil changes that I have done on my prius. I learned on the first oil change to jack up the front of the car about as high as you can to keep the plastic panel out of the way, and have room for my big socket wrench on the oil filter casing.

Definitely replace the bolt. You have a few options for trying to remove the seized head but before doing anything, I'd try soaking it with penetrating oil to see if that will help loosen things up.

If there's enough of the bolt sticking out, an eccentric stud extractor is my favorite way to remove a broken bolt. Otherwise you can use something that fits over the stud ordrills into the stud.

Good luck, broken bolts are a pain.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NPUKJ8/ref=s9_simh_gw_p263_d0_i2?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=center-2&pf_rd_r=1MMZWQVK28EAA0MBYEHB&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=1389517282&pf_rd_i=507846

$10.83 with Amazon Prime shipping, get it by Tuesday for $3.99 or Wednesday for free shipping.

> Is this the socket set you're talking about?

Ugh, no, I hate those ratchets, too.

https://www.amazon.com/Blackhawk-Proto-9782100-Combination-Containing/dp/B00D2Z7O90

>Look into Williams

I used to have the old Williams Kobalt stuff, but they changed manufacturers so broken and lost pieces were replaced with crap.

As for that socket set, I almost bought it 2 years ago, but I am just not sure that their Taiwan-made tools are any better than anyone else's.

>the best route to go would probably just buy a really nice 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 ratchet (from say, Williams and then just buy every socket Tekton has to offer

If I am going that route, I'll buy used Snap On ratchets (I already have one GF80 I bought for $50) and just use GearWrench impact sockets :D

$2 on amazon for a 10mm deep socket so I guess just smash dat "add to cart" button until you have hit the quantity you desire

Track quality..by whose standards? Hopefully not ebay

Anyways these will work. https://www.amazon.com/ABN-Impact-Socket-Metric-Extension/dp/B01BUI5XYS/ref=sr_1_4?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1501557450&sr=1-4&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_browse-bin%3A4884862011%2C4884880011

Just FYI on the 9/16s

Something like these

Neiko 10054A 4-Inch Extra Long XZN Triple Square Spline Bit Socket Set, S2 Steel | 10-Piece Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004DKHVM8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rvkCCb3XN9Y2Y

Not to ruin the joke but you can just buy 10 mm sockets. https://smile.amazon.com/uxcell-4-inch-6-Point-Shallow-Socket/dp/B079NC7ZBY/ref=sr_1_28

The one you can read is 9 1/8" not 9 3/8", sorry. But there is an unlabeled one next to it that is bigger. Large 3.5" drive impact and sockets https://imgur.com/gallery/nr2oW

EDIT: Cheapest price is on Amazon. Not Proto though. $3,381.36 https://www.amazon.com/Wright-Tool-86973-8-Inch-Impact/dp/B005G0OIDY

All kidding aside you really should just get the set

Breaker bar to take them off and torque wrench to put them back on: https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-24335-2-Inch-ft-lb-13-6-203-5/dp/B01LXO4XEP

17mm socket: https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-14257-2-Inch-Socket-6-Point/dp/B000NPZ5S4

You also need a jack(save the sketchy one with the spare for emergencies only).

If you are going to take more than one wheel off at a time(rotate tires) or go under the car(oil change) you also need jack stands. You can get a jack and 4 jack stands pretty cheap at harbor freight, one of those always on sale things.

Check your manual but I think the lug torque is about 88ft/lbs.

Now that's a lot of stuff and it adds up. It will let you do lots of basic maintenance with this and a few other basic tools though. If you don't want to go that route just pay someone to change the wheels instead of half-assing it with the stuff for the spare tire.

here is a set in stock on amazon.

Check you local autozone/napa for a rounded off lug nut extractor set. If it has a 15/16" socket, that should work. You just might have to give it some tippy taps with a hammer to get it on, but you aren't planning on re using the drain bolt anyway.

Here is the desktop version of your link

That's a Peugeot tranny right? you need a 5/16 . I bought it from Amazon

It's probably a 2-3 hour job for a shop to do it. So you're looking at 200-300 in labour, or $100 for the torque wrench and $14 for the impact socket and $92 for the u-joint/ball joint tool.

Having the high torque spec torque wrench might be niche but you can/will use the u-joint tool if you ever do your steering stabilizer, and any other ball joint...

Amazon did it first

Here's a list of the parts you'll need /u/RebornSpartan . I did pretty much the same thing last year.

Also, if you replace one wheel bearing I'd suggest knocking out the other one while you're at it. That also gives you the chance to check the axle shaft u-joints while you're at it.

2x Timken HA597449 Axle Bearing and Hub Assembly - $150

You will also need a 36mm socket specific for the nut on the axle shaft. I bought this one from Amazon when I ordered the wheel bearings: TEKTON 4936 1/2-Inch Drive by 36 mm Deep Impact Socket, 6-Point - $14.

Something to be aware of (paranoia at its finest) is the possibility that your hub bolts may be rusted all to hell and need replaced. Or in case you want to replace them "just because". You can get them from Quadratec @ $4/ea and you will need a total of 3 for each side. Crown Automotive 34201535 Front Knuckle To Hub Bolt

Here are the Moog part #s for the ZJ tie rod upgrade:
1x Moog DS1312 ZJ Tie Rod End - $54
1x Moog ES3096L XJ/ZJ Tie Rod End - $26

You can generally re-use the adjusting sleeve that's already on the components you're going to replace, but in case you want/need a new adjusting sleeve it's only an additional $15.
1x Moog ES2079S XJ/ZJ Tie Rod End Adjusting Sleeve - $15

While you're down there mucking about with the steering, you should check the drag link and the track bar as well.

If you need/want to replace the drag link assembly, here are the part #s you'll need. Again, you can generally get away with re-using the adjusting sleeve so that will save you $15 if you do.
1x Moog DS1238 Tie Rod End aka Drag Link - $60
1x Moog ES3096L XJ/ZJ Tie Rod End - $26
1x Moog ES2079S XJ/ZJ Tie Rod End Adjusting Sleeve - $15

For the track bar:
1x Moog DS1235 XJ Track Bar - $59

Now, on to the sway bar links. If the links themselves are still good, all you need to do is replace the bushings.
2x Moog K3150 Sway Bar Link Repair Kit - $17

If your links are crap (usually the top bolt is rusted all to hell, or people don't want to screw with pressing out the old bushings) you can get two of these kits to just do a straight replacement.
2x Moog K3174 Stabilizer Bar Link Kit - $38

And don't forget to replace the mounting bushings for the sway bar while you're at it, also.
1x Moog K3171 Sway Bar Bushing Kit - $10