(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best 3d printer parts & accessories

Wow.. this is easily the longest reply I have ever gotten. I have replied much longer before but yeah.. Not complaining at all thanks for taking the time to write it. I will reply as I read through.

Wiring for me I have never been all that hesitant to. I have been hit with 120 a few times and it's mainly a burn for me. The one that really surprised me though was taking apart a blender and well I had shorts on and you can touch one wire and be fine just not both unless you and the wiring are grounded of course. Anyway I was on my bed and one wire was touching my leg and the other I grabbed with my hand... So that was an interesting experience.

I am the type that will take one of those cigarette lighters that electric spark? take off the guard, put your thumb over it and go... clicky clicky...

As for the JST bit I appreciate the links. I am familiar with them and how to do that I just never have. I would need a reason to get them, maybe this is it? But the wago or other lever type connectors seem to be easier and or cheaper. I will figure it out when it gets here.

> personally I mangled the connector housings and pins on my stepper cables trying to swap pins over.

Yeah I think you need the pin remover. I was watching a few youtube videos about it, and well here I believe is the one I watched. Relevant portion is at the 7:05 mark https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RhU0D7fDR98 It's called an extraction tool, or extractor. There are quite a few different ones for different applications. If I got into solderless pin connections that's one of the things I would buy.

So for me going that kind of connector route would be about 10 or so for the extractor, 20 for the crimper, maybe 10 or so for the connectors. But let's say it was just 30 or so total. Ok... or I could go with the wago lever connectors for 15 and could splice 50 sets of wires that could be undone with a flick of a lever. It's not as nice looking as a connector but it's still doable. Also knowing me, I'd still throw some heat shrink tubing onto the crimped pins. But I already have that and a heat gun.

>Building a cat proof mdf enclosure for the printer so I can take it home within the next month or so is on the cards.

I plan on copying the corner bracing and modifying those. Well I want to replace all the melamine parts eventually but yeah. The idea would be to modify those in a way I could easily attach side and top panels. Likely something like 1/4" plexi glass. I don't like how the socket caps stick out, so I would use countersunk screws to make the screw head flush with the printed brace. Then either on the back side hollow out a section for a neodymium magnet for each corner and do the same for the plexiglass, or maybe thumbscrews? Or possibly just make it so it's like the side of a PC case where it slides in and out The top would likely be semi permanent and attached with screws but the sides would be like just slide the panel up and take it off that way. The front maybe the same way or use hinges or whatever. I don't think I will print any ABS I hear enclosures could help with that. My main reason for doing it is dust. Dust I hear can mess up prints so keeping it enclosed may help with the quality.

For me an MDF enclosure would be really easy to do, I may do that as a frame then attach plexi to the outside and just have a box that goes over it? but that to me seems like cheating and or wasted space... also no challenge. I like challenging myself so unless I absolutely need it and I can't figure out the other bit then maybe? But what I have in mind should be relatively easy to do.

About the router stand... Looks good, but I must admit when I read "router", I thought of like an actual router well the woodworking kind.

The CTC-3D clone? or? I haven't looked into those so I am not very familiar. I am mainly interested in kits not fully working right out of the box... and you answered that later in the post... nice.

The fan bit. I plan on tinkering around a lot with that well the shroud bit. I have thought of an experiment to try to test out which ones are better, and I will throw in different speeds, different nozzles as well and document the process. I will take a few that others have designed, and design some of my own to see how they differ in performance. The test will be of multiple prints of a similar object, essentially 2 poles at varying distances, like half an inch up to say 3 to 5 inches or however long to see how far each can bridge the gap with little to no sagging. Then maybe ledges at varying lengths.

As for the V6 clone bit. I already bought one of these J-Head V6 Bowden and an MK8 Bowden feeder. I primarily got those to see if I like the bowden setup over the direct. If I find out I like the direct I will probably get this. If I like the bowden bit I think I could still get that one and just change out the heat sink and use the other bits. Either or fun times ahead.

>Or even the new e3d aero if you don't want v6 style eating into your build height.

If I need more build height, I can just get some longer rods, and some longer 2020's and extend it out. My main thing is I wanted 12"^2, since this is like 15.75" unless it takes 3.75" more of build height away I don't think I will fret too much.

>Definitely use the stock for a few months

A few months is an eternity for me. Maybe it will take that long to get built and dialed in? Who knows... Either or... the plan is to get the printer from kit form built and working and at least functional with prints. The only "change" will likely be with a 12x12 glass or mirror bed. Once it's up and running and I have a base to work from that I know works. Then I will change it over to bowden with the ones I linked and try that out for a while. Then decide whether I want to get the e3d one or not. The only reason I'd get the e3d one is the socks which I could buy seperate and the hotend tube. If I could find that bit seperate I probably wouldn't buy the complete kit. I know I can buy the "clone" version but the teflon tube is used as a liner and I'd like it to potentially be able to get up to around 300c without worrying about that liner melting. I also plan on getting some stainless nozzles and maybe... just maybe one of the tungsten ones. Not necessarily to use with this printer but likely the one that I design and build after this one. Think multiple independent extruders(not sharing the same block), and large... er build volume. I won't get too much into that idea right now though.

>I'd say the z axis rods are the one part of this built machine that is a little more difficult to access/disassemble easily

Yeah I'd say that looks fair. But that's also one of the selling points for me. That design looks rock solid. Even with the shitty melamine. I think once you get the binding figured out on the Z and have an idea how to do it regularly it will become less and less of a pain. As for the threaded and smooth rods, and only the threaded need to be somewhat loose? I heard it was pretty much all of them until it was aligned properly. Try loosening all of them up a little bit. Running it to the top and bottom then go to the top, tighten things down then down to the bottom then tighten. That should resolve any binding. From my understanding at least. It doesn't seem like you have tried that approach yet.

>TBH the melamine parts aren't that terrible.

Well for me I am not hugely against it but yeah. They work just not for my liking. I was initially hoping they would be actual solid melamine. But it looks like it is actually a melamine coating on top of low quality mdf. If it was actual melamine it would be a lot harder and wouldn't crush that easily. Actual melamine is a lot closer to a plastic than what that appears to be. Here in the states at least melamine is commonly put over particle board for counter tops. It's good so long as you don't get water on the edges as it will eventually swell.

As for the bracing... I assume you have home improvement stores there? If so try to find some of these if you don't want to print out new ones. Just figure out the dimensions you want with those flat corner braces and use those. You may need slightly smaller M5's but those are pretty cheap as well. Or if you have a grinder... you could knock a few MM off the ones you have.

>standard board will do the job just fine. The lure of touch/colour screens for 32 bit SBase boards isn't really for me.

I don't think I will go the touch screen route designed for these, If I go that route I will likely add wifi capability, and add a small tablet with browser functionality ;)... The reason for me, for 32 bit is 1/128 stepping, as well as quieter motors, and can be more complex without the program stuttering due to not being able to keep up with the needed calculations. With that I plan on trying to see the maximum print speed I can get and still get decent quality. Just to give you an idea. I plan on bolting it down to a heavy surface due to the inertia of the motors going side to side to keep it rock solid, that may give you an idea on how fast I am planning on cranking this or the next one up to, and yes I know I will likely need better motors and or stronger drivers and crank up the current. Maybe even a stouter belt system? Enclosed chain perhaps? Or longitudinal setup like this? http://www.technicopedia.com/8094/8094-2longitudinal.jpg, well without the extra bits.

As for the USB bit I am going to tinker around with that and SD card, I have a spare laptop I don't really use I can use for that purpose.

You can add dampeners on the ender 3.. here is my write up on this . I posted this a few time but it's fully helped me.

I have had this same issue. I work from home and there is nothing like a 3d printer going off in the background while you are presenting in a conference call. I also have the Ender 3 pro, here is how I solved the noise.

Note: 4 things to know before venturing off in this solution. This may save you some reading.

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1st: You will need to know how to take things apart and put them back together.

2nd: You will need to print a few parts (listed below)

3rd: Cost will run ~$25 - $50 for parts ( listed below, some are optional), about $125 for the added enclosure to do it the correct way.

4th: There are prolly other solutions like getting a better board, but I like to stay true to the oem setup and tinkering with what I have.

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Here is what you will need:

1st Dampeners: $15 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DNT72SF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1

-as you are going to be removing the stepper motor away from the rails which help cool, you will need a new way to help cool the motor such as heatsinks. (Below)

- You will prolly only use 2 of the 3. 1 on the Y axis and one on the X axis. Dont really need one for the zrod as it don't really put out a lot of noise when printing.

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2nd Heatsinks: $8 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KWVGGGK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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3rd X axis stepper motor (42-34 is the size): (Optional) $ 17 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GDBMT1D/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

- I say Optional as you can print the bracket to make the stock stepper motor work but it fully replaces the motor mount plate Found here : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3271077 . I was just not sure how that would hold up to wear and tare as I was new to printing at the time and did not care to take the whole motor plate section and wheels apart.

-But if you want to skip printing the plate and the tare down/reassemble, I would order the stepper motor and 20 tooth sprocket. (below )

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4th Sprockets (20 Teeth) : (Optional, see 3rd item on list) $ 8 -https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019GICCMA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

- sadly you can only get a 5 pack.

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5th Y Damper Bracket: Free - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3240449

- This moves the orientation of the motor to make up for the extra 10mm or so from the dampener.

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6th Small bed leveling nut wheel (not sure what to call it): Free , Print it.

- The back left wheel will hit the heatsink/motor after you add the dampener and causes the bed to not extend all the way back. I had to go on tinkercad and make my own mini nutwheel. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3742690

- This will make it a bit harder to level the bed as it is smaller and harder to turn, but if you have the yellow springs installed, you should not have to level your bed often =p

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7th - Lack Enclosure ~ $125 for me anyway Tables are around $8 and the plexy was around $50, and a full spool of filament ~$22, large pack of M12 screws $8

I got 3 tables, stacked them on top of each other, Printed my own feet/extensions to make sure it was the correct height (Solid 20" tall is what I went with) and then I went to my local Lowes and picked up 4 sheets of 3mm plexy. Cut my self and slapped it all together. This really finished off most of the noise for me, the only noise you will really hear after the dampeners is the fans. =(. I still hear the fans with an enclosure but its quite subtitle. I may upgrade to the much talked about Nactua silent fan with the buck converter to make it a 24/12 volt fan.

- You will need to also move the PSU out of the enclosure as this will help with the over heating/wear and tare. I printed some bracket ( like this https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3349588 ) to hold it to the underside of the 2nd shelf, and drilled a hole through to the printer where I could reconnect the printer and psu.

- This also helped with the fan noise from the PSU, I was really shocked on how well it worked. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3659432

- I also drilled a hole from the USB port down though to run my USB to and from Printer/octopi .

Hopefully this helps - hit me up if you have any questions . There is a lot of info here but it really helped bring down the noise. I would say the sound went from level 10 down to 3 or 4.

- I can upload my design for the Enclosure if needed, I am not fully sold on my design for the door section..

When I get around to it, I will upload pics of my setup =p

-shortliv3d

I got my Ender 3 Pro about a month ago, performed some upgrades and ran into a few problems, but with some weird caveates.



I'm trying to print multiple miniatures on a single print, but seem to be getting a lot of oozing or stringing issues, but when I test with retraction tests, the test comes out perfect with identical settings. Additionally, when googling around, I couldn't find anything except for potentially a nozzle clog or potentially hydrated filament (possible, I'll test this later)

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I've tested a few other prints as well, a benchy and a testcube, they print fine. Really curious about what's going on. Do I need to spread the prints out more, use different settings, or is it more of a mechanical issue?

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I'd appreciate any help you guys have to recommend!

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So, lets get down to it:

Printer: Creality Ender 3 Pro

Surface: Creality Glass surface

Upgrades: Aluminum extruder upgrade

Capricorn Tubing

New bed springs



In addition to these, I've tightened the X and Y bolts on the runners to reduce wobble -- there's no more wobble, maybe they're too tight? I don't think so, I've had good prints with these settings, but not with a few things.



Settings:

Basically the same as the "normal" settings for the Ender 3 on Cura 4.0.0

But in addition: (And what I think may be important is bolded)

adhesion_type = raft

layer_height = 0.12

support_tree_enable = True

support_type = buildplate

brim_outside_only = False

fill_outline_gaps = True

infill_pattern = cubic

infill_sparse_density = 25

material_final_print_temperature = 180

material_initial_print_temperature = 180

material_print_temperature = 185

optimize_wall_printing_order = True

raft_margin = 10

retraction_amount = 7.5

retraction_speed = 20

speed_print = 30

support_angle = 40

support_conical_enabled = True

support_infill_rate = 50

support_interface_enable = True

support_pattern = lines

** NOTE ** Standard supports are turned off, I'm using the tree supports

support_tree_collision_resolution = 0.15

travel_avoid_supports = True

travel_compensate_overlapping_walls_enabled = False

wall_thickness = 1.2

• For containers I just use 1 pint cheap plastic containers that soups come in or deli give you. I guess you can find a nice piece of Tupperware that is about that size, and a taller one for taller prints. You could probly just ask the Deli guys at a food store for a few empty 1 pint containers + lids.
  
  
  • 2 containers - one with pure IPA and one with clean water. Good lids that won't leak.
    
    
• 91% or 99% IPA for cleaning your build plate / resin vat / scraping tools / desk / etc. and for using in the print wash container. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ABPUGH0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• More gloves: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CF49NJS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 My palm width is about 3.6 inches / 9.2 cm and I bought the XL which fit ok.
  
  
• More paint strainers: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HQELZ7E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• Better removal tools: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A81FXMK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• Also get some Xacto knives + extra blades + sand paper sheets in varying grit 300-400 count for smoothing off support marks. https://www.amazon.com/X-Acto-XZ3601-X-ACTO-Knife-Safety/dp/B005KRSWM6/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1527015690&sr=8-6&keywords=xacto+blade
  
  Try to find the flexible sand paper sheets that are meant to be hand-used. I found them in Loews 3m brand, this is the exact type of sheets i use: https://www.amazon.com/3M-COMPANY-28320SB-UF4-320G-Sandpaper/dp/B00PPD1CYA/ref=sr_1_7?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1527015867&sr=8-7&keywords=sandpaper+320+grit+3m
  
  
• Find a source for cheap paper towels. I use the real cheap paper towels that you find in bathrooms, the stuff that's really stiff and crappy. I don't use name brands such as Bounty or whatever because the higher quality kitchen paper towels leave behind bits of cloth dust, which is unwanted for cleaning the resin vat / build plate / LCD screen. You'll also go through shitloads of paper towels and the higher quality towels are a waste of money. https://imgur.com/7XeelfV
  
  
• Get a couple sunglasses cleaning cloths. Not the microfiber cloths with the consistency of a bathroom towel: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009L77OXE/ref=sspa_dk_detail_4?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B009L77OXE&pd_rd_wg=OcvWJ&pd_rd_r=3AAAFBB1202BXG3K8QN0&pd_rd_w=cwumx That's just an example - you can probly finder cheaper and better sized/quality towels such as: https://www.amazon.com/MagicFiber-Microfiber-Cleaning-Cloths-PACK/dp/B0050R67U0/ref=pd_bxgy_421_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0050R67U0&pd_rd_r=PR868R09NE2DQCC8NBVQ&pd_rd_w=0uPs5&pd_rd_wg=eAMNx&psc=1&refRID=PR868R09NE2DQCC8NBVQ
  
  I use these cloths on the LCD screen and the resin vat FEP sheet. After cleaning the resin vat FEP sheet and the LCD with paper towels, I give them a nice polish with the cleaning cloth to remove any other smudges or dust. Make sure to have a cloth dedicated to ONLY the LCD screen, as you want the keep the LCD screen pristine and free of dust and smudges.
  
  You'll also want a print curing station to harden the prints once they have been cleaned. I bought:
  
  
• A plastic cookie jar; clear plastic, round: https://www.bedbathandbeyond.com/store/product/oxo-good-grips-reg-3-piece-pop-canister-set/3262796?categoryId=12605
  
  
• UV LED Light Strip: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075ZQZDBR/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• Heavy duty tape, such as duct tape or gorilla tape. I used black gorilla tape.
  
  
• Aluminum Foil
  
  

1. Wrap the LED strip around the plastic container to this effect: https://imgur.com/oB98Qxl . Make sure you wrap so that the power cable connector will be at the bottom of the container. Make sure you secure the beginning and the end of the LED strip to container with a piece of tape.
   
   
2. Wrap the LED'd container with aluminum foil - shiny side facing inward. Lay out a long piece of foil on the floor, shiny side facing up, just enough to cover the container's length once. Secure the beginning of the foil piece with a piece of tape, and then secure the end of the foil. Try to wrap without causing creases in the foil, keeping the foil as shiny and smooth as possible. Make sure your power cable plug in point is popping out and able to be plugged in.
   
   
3. Secure a piece of foil to the base, shiny side facing inward.
   
   
4. Secure a piece of foil to the lid, shiny side inward. Take a piece of tape and make a 2-sticky-sided loop to secure the foil. Make sure the foil is not interfering with the lid's ability to securely close.
   
   
5. Wrap the whole thing with your gorilla or duct tape. Make sure your power cable plug-in point is popping out and able to be plugged in.
   
   

I did that too...

I started with the masking tape under the glass. I even printed the Wedge Jack for the dip in center.

Next I replaced the glass with a mirror I purchased at Michaels crafts.

Results improved...but still had a first layer sticking problem from time to time.

Next up was the masking tape on TOP of the mirror -- I did this on the glass too. Did I forget to mention that detail? We were pretty close but removing things from tape -- ouch it was rough and always messed up the tape.

I moved on to putting this on my mirror. So far it has been the best combination of flat + adhesion and I get good prints.

I usually start first layer slow and if the print is small, I slow things down for a bit before there is a few layers down -- than I turn that knob and give it a whirl.

Some prints just like to test my patience and start off poor and I scrap and restart. Heat/cold in the room has affected my prep -- I have found 60 bed/200 tip for PLA has worked best.

If I did it all over -- given everything I have learned -- I would spend more $$ and consider a Prusa perhaps. I'd need to find out who best supported the flat bed.

Other than that the print quality of CR10S is amazing -- and prototypes are cranking out. I am building a gizmo -- and I thought it would be better to be able to just print my designs rather than get them mailed. When I look back at all this -- I think I ended up investing more time in printing than I would have waiting for the mail to arrive. But the adventure was fun.

Patience and good luck!

I'm going to do the install again on my other Ender next week and I'll fully document it then. Things I learned along the way:

First you'll want to bookmark this page. Pretty much everything you need to wire and configure the firmware is there.

The Einsy uses Molex 9402, 03, and 04 connectors for all of the stepper motor, fan, thermistor, and end stop connectors. While it's possible to cut the keys off of the stock connectors and the stepper motor connectors will fit, I prefer to have the polarized latching connectors, so reterminated all of them. If you order the board with the hardware kit from Ultimachine it includes connectors and pins, but I was glad I went ahead and ordered more pins and connectors from Amazon as it took me a little while to get the crimps correct and I ruined most of the pins.

Note also that the JST connectors that plug into the end stops and thermistors have a much shorter barrel than the Molex ones and I had to get a different crimping tool for those. I also got an assortment of ferrules and the crimping tool for those as I really hate running bare wires into screw terminals and I don't like using spade lugs either if there is more than one connection to a terminal. Ferrules are much better than bare wire and the connections last years longer than a bare wire. My bed heater connection was scorched because the wire wasn't inserted all the way into the connector and most of the strands had broken off leaving a high resistance connection.

Both fan connections are 5V PWM. You can get to 24V on the exp 3 or J 19 if you just want the hot end fan to be on all the time, but I went ahead and got Noctua 5v PWM fans. I printed the simplest adapter possible to convert the centrifugal part fan to axial and wired both fans to the fan connections. Still having issues getting the hot end fan to turn off and on based on the hot end temperature, but that's the project for tonight. Still doing test prints, but so far it looks like the part fan is doing ok, but I have a new hot end mount that has dual part fans printed that I'll get on this weekend.

I had a terrible time getting sensorless homing working and couldn't get the mostors to work at all with them set to microstep values set higher then 4 on the X and Y axis. I had always planned on upgrading the extruder stepper to one of the high torque Moon's steppers, but I ended up upgrading them all as I couldn't find out what the specs for the stock motors were. The X, Y, and extruder motors were easy as they weren't size constrained, but the Z axis can't be more than 34mm tall to fit in the stock mount. I ended up using this motor for the Z axis and it's working very well.

The stock stepper motors may or may not have pressed on gears. My Y motor did, but the X did not. I just ordered more gears as I wouldn't have trusted the gear even if I managed to get it off without damaging it. Since the new motors for X and Y had a slightly longer shaft, it was easier to get them adjusted with the grub screw type gear.

After I got the steppers replaced, I still couldn't get the motors to work until I boosted the motor current from the 800mA default to 820mA. After that 16x microstepping, stealthchop, and sensorless homing started working reliably. It could be that the stock motors may have worked if I had done the same with them. I'll find out next week when I do the next one. I have all new Moon's steppers already purchased for it though so I'm not going to spend a lot of time messing with the stock motors.

The stock stepper motor and end stop cables where solid black ribbon cables. No color coding at all. I decided to replace them rather than try to trace the wires. After I got the cables made I discovered the fancy Moon's stepper had a different pinout from the rest and had to fix that one.

Stock motherboard had the SD card reader mounted on it and I prefer to print from SD for anything that takes more than 8 or so hours, so I got the RepRap full graphics LCD. It was only $11 and it has a full size SD slot. Worked fine as soon as I cut the key off of the EXP connector and reversed it. Be careful doing that, I nicked the ribbon cable and ruined one of them.

Stock firmware image on the Einsy came up with a Mintemp error. Most likely it was using the wrong thermistor type. I went with the vanilla 1.1.9 bugfix version of Marlin as a base with the Ender 3 default configuration files loaded. There is a link to a preconfigured 1.1.5 Marlin in the wiki, but it doesn't have Ender 3 example configuration files. I didn't really look at it as the difference in configuration is quite different from the 1.1.9 version. You'll need to add a link to the board manager repository, but that and the libraries you need are fully described on the wiki.

Haven't gotten interpolation to 256 steps working yet and it doesn't work at all with stealthchop disabled. Motors start moving 4 times as far as they should in either case. Homing is done in spreadcycle mode, but I guess homing just needs to move until it stops, so maybe it's still trying to go 4 times too far, it just doesn't matter.

BLTouch wiring is almost exactly as the Wiki documents and worked perfectly on the first try. Only thing incorrect was the 1.1.9 bugfix default for pins_EINSYRAMBO.h already has the correct mapping for the z end stop and probe pins when bltouch is enabled. You don't need to change that.

I built Marlin many times and update it through octoprint. Until I got ABL working and needed to save the mesh, I put M502 and M500 commands in the script that octoprint runs after the firmware is loaded. That way I knew that all of the firmware changes I made were always applied when I loaded a new image. Make sure and enable the m122 TMC Debug option. It's the quickest way to verify how the drivers are set up.

I've enabled pretty much all of the bells and whistles in Marlin and I'm only using 63% of the code space. May try enabling Unified Bed Levelling tonight.

I also disabled the option that prevents cold extrusion with M302 while I was debugging the extruder motor. I just left the bowden tube off of the extruder until I get the motor calibrated.

That's pretty much everything that I can think of off hand. When I do it again I'll probably remember other things.

Improvements/add-ons

• Filament Roller Guide. You will thank yourself later to further prevent the filament from grooving an indentation where it feeds into your extruder. It utilizes bearings but its a fantastic design. I had mine for ~2 months when I started noticing the groove already being made.

• XT60 Connector clips - if you want a little "cable management"

• LCD Cable Clips - Also if you want a little "cable management". There is also an LCD Cover for the PCB to keep dust and whatnot out.

• Any fan covers you find that suit your style as you dont want filament going into the box in the bottom left (not entirely too sure what it holds).

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Physical Upgrades

• Upgrade the bed springs as my originals started to sag a little. Not exactly sure on what the technical name for those springs are but those are the ones I purchased and I have been happy with them.

• Borosilicate glass bed. I use to use the stock mat, tape method, and hairspray method. All of those worked for a little bit but were a complete pain and mess to deal with from time to time. All I do now is use some isopropyl alcohol and clean my glass bed every once in a while but past that I require NO adhesion for my bed outside of tiny pieces that require a brim, skirt or whatever support needed to keep it adhered. As long as your print bed is leveled as best as possible (have a nice filament "squish") you will have no issues.

• Some other things you could look into if you plan to print with other kinds of filament outside of PLA would be: Micro Swiss steel nozzle, Capricorn tubing and an upgraded extruder like the e3d. Keep it simple for right now though while you learn your rigs because I strongly feel no ender 3 works the same and my preference for which program (MatterHacker, Slic3r or Cura) depends on how I feel how the model appears and how its coming out. Also, grab yourself a handful of replacement nozzles if you continue to use the brass ones. They CAN wear out if you use the printer like crazy, so its always good to have spares (also can get a variety of sizes too - standard being the 0.1mm I believe?). I snagged a pack of 10 for $5-8.

>
>
>


Last but not least, run a few bed level test prints as well. The best one that I have found which helps me dial in my printing was CHEPs bed level STL file. Video & G-Code file. I use it religiously if I ever find that my bed is out of wack.



There are a handful of other mods/add-ons you can find on Thingiverse and another website (one which we arent allowed to link to unfortunately).

I'm pretty new to this too, I bought my Ender 3 Pro around the same time as you. Quiet printing is pretty high on my list as well as being able to print high-temp exotic filaments in the long term while maintaining reliability.

First upgrades I purchased were stiffer bed springs so I would be less likely to throw the bed out of level while removing prints or working around the printer and Capricorn XS tube since it has a more consistent internal diameter, fits closer to the filament, and can work with slightly higher temps. I also picked up a pack of bowden couplers recently as I noticed the end nearest the extruder is sliding past the coupler jaws on de/retraction; don't worry about that unless it's an issue for you. That's about $30 alone since I don't have a supply shop locally and have to order those parts in bulk. I had a Pi 3B laying around unused and flashed Octoprint onto it. Highly recommended. I have a replacement Noctua hotend fan, buck converters, and 5015 blower on order to quiet the fan noise; about $32. Just replaced the Meanwell psu fan with a 60x25mm Noctua I had lying around (Note: there may be better options in the 92-120mm range to replace part of the PSU housing, but that's what I had laying around). Next upgrade coming is the SKR Mini E3 with TMC 2209 drivers ($28) to eliminate almost all of the stepper noise. Also looking into a replacement for the control board fan and some vibration isolating feet for the frame. As far as higher temp printing I haven't made a lot of progress aside from buying a titanium all-metal heat brake ($11) winch I have yet to install or inspect, and looking into enclosure and electronics relocation avenues.

Either way the mods I purchased came in at around $100 US which should quiet the printer and help with reliability. Also looking into picking up a good M3-M4 bolt kit if any exist in the US.

Here are some links to the things I picked up and will, which may be helpful if you're in the US. Mostly from Amazon.

Type | Name | Link | Price
---|---|----|----
Reliability | 8mm x 20mm yellow springs | Link | $6.98
Reliability | Capricorn XS Tubing | Link | $11.49
Reliability | PC4-M6 / PC4-M10 Pneumatic Bowden Fittings | Link | $11.99
Silence | Noctua 40mm x 10mm 3-pin fan | Link | $13.95
Silence/Various | LM2596 Adjustable Buck Converters | Link | $10.95
Silence | 24v 5015 Radial Ball Bearing Fans | Link | $7.19
Silence/Various | SKR Mini E3 w/ TMC 2209 drivers | Link | $28.81
High Temp | Titanium All-Metal Heat Brake | Link | $11.52
TOTAL: $102.88 US + Tax

Parts already purchased/ bought with printer

Type | Name | Link | Price
---|---|----|----
Reliability/High Temp | OEM Ender 3 Glass Bed | Link | $20
Reliability | Feeler Guage Set | Link | $5
Reliability | 608zz Bearings, using with this(My Remix), this, and this, though I like this design a bit better | Link | $5.98
QoL Improvement | Raspberry Pi 3B w/ Octoprint | Link | $34.46
Silence | Noctua 60mm x 25mm 3-pin fan, goes with this mod | Link | $14.95
TOTAL: $80.39 US + Tax

Future planned upgrades

• Bl Touch (Note: if you have a Pi you don't need a separate ISP to flash a bootloader to the stock Melzi control board)
  
  
• Extruder | Zesty Nimble, Bondtech BMG, or SeeMeCNC EZR
  
  
• Cooling Duct | Either Smooth Fang or Hero Me Gen 3 in PETG/ABS
  
  
• Direct Drive | Kit or Printed (this, this, or this)
  
  
• Electronics relocation enclosure and wiring (need to research this more)
  
  
• Vibration Isolation Feet with Yellow Dot Squash Balls
  
  
• Linear rails (maybe)

I got a QIDI tech one which is just a older version of this which really I don’t think there is much different between the 2. I’ll try and quickly go over some answers and if I get time later today I’ll try and answer more.

1.) this print bed over time will be scratched up from use. You can replace the surface material which isn’t overly difficult but I would look for a different scraper tool. I use something like this and another set that is similar and it’s a lot easier to get prints off the bed. : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075SLTY8B?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

2.) it’s been done though I don’t know the process to swap out the bed to glass I just always used the surface pads. I got a new printer a month ago so this one has not been in use but I picked up some gecko tech surface pad I’ll try and find the link later but it’s like the build pad on the printer now but in theory it’s supposed to release the prints after it cools down.

4.) there is no set magic print speed it varies from material and model you print with I will try and find what my last speed was when I get home.

5.) temperature is another element based on the material you use. I got some brands that prints great at 200, 205, and some that prints at 215. Just have to try and find what works.

6.) you don’t really need a brim unless you get prints that don’t have a lot of surface contact think the last time I used a brim I had like 6 wide and 2-3 layers thick but try out different settings and see what might work for you.

7.) there is a few programs out there but I see a lot suggest fusion360 which is a good program but takes a bit of work to get used to.

8.) there’s several types of slicing programs out there. Slic3r and cura are the popular free programs but I used simplify3d which is a paid program which runs $150. Is it better than the other programs not really it has its good points and bad just need to look around and see what works.

9.) never used the slicer as they released it like 6-8 months after I got my printer so I can’t say for sure.

10.) This I think is the normal for other slicers I know slic3r, and simplify3d does it I never used cura but I think it also does it as well. The one that’s looking like vines is done by meshmixer.

11.) not sure the best way to go about this one but you can adjust the scale of the print on the x,y,z in the program and use a caliper for the dimensions and trial and error from there. There’s a little more that can effect this but I can maybe go over it when I get home.

12.) for tips I can’t think of any this moment but maybe try out some of the different YouTube channels out there like makers muse and 3d printing nerd and toms3d. Each cover different areas but should have some relation to some of the questions you asked.

I’ll get home in like 5 hours I’ll try and answer more then and try and go in depth on some other things.

You didn't specify if you bought a kit or fully assembled, but ill assume it's a kit ;)


-

1. Follow the online instruction. Grab yourself a laptop/tablet since online has higher res pictures and comments per steps.
   
   

• Before each step see the comments under them to see if others have had trouble or give their alternative insight on an issue.
  
  
  

2. When assembling it, make sure you are doing this all on a flat, even surface. I did this on my granite kitchen counter top just so i wont run into alignment issues during calibration
   
   
3. Once you have it built, calibrated and working, it is customary (per say) to print a 3D Benchy, to get insight if the printer needs any fine tuning.
   
   
4. Must have recommendation
   
   

• OMG get these e3d silicone socks!. I've had dozen's of successful prints and these socks have helped so much from preventing THIS
  
  
• If you plan to use exotic filament (eg: wood, metal, carbon fiber), GET A HARDENED STEEL nozzle. The stock BRASS nozzle (0.4mm) is only good on non-abrasive filament (eg: regular PLA+ABS)
  
  
• 3D Print Removal Tool Spatula
  
  
• Restock on PEI Sheets!. These are what are recommended by the community as per cost effective and reliability and i think shipping is ~$9? So get more than one for the future. The ones on amazon are !@#$ overpriced!
  
  
  
  
• (optional, didnt like the power cord being bent) Left Angle Power Extension Cord.
  
  edit: I found this on thingiverse to make the PSU cable left angled
  
  

5. Start learning (if you haven't) to use Fusion 360 (most preferred), 123D, or TinkerCAD to print you whatever creativity you have.
   
   AVOID SKETCHUP!!.
   
   
6. Once you have a successful working, printing machine, start printing replacement parts for your printer! As Josef Prusa has stated, it's ok to print the machines parts out of PLA, If you wanna go with something more durable, go for PETG. eSun PETG Orange is what i use. BUT FIRST, make sure you adjust the Slic3r setting and a few test prints to print parts in PETG since it's finicky to work it.

I am using a build surface called Athorbot. It sells in a package of 3 and was only $16 on Amazon. In the past I've printed with BuildTak and PEI on my other printers. I prefer BuildTak to PEI, because with PEI I'm always adding chemicals to it (IPA to clean, Gluestick to reduce adhesion with Flex, Windex to Reduce adhesion with PETG, etc.). I have no idea how good the Arthorbot sheet is, but I've seen people on this sub with it and they seem to like it, so I thought I'd give it a try. It's cheap as chips- so if it doesn't work out, no problem!

The filament I prefer for my flex parts is Sainsmart TPU. I would definitely recommend using some gluestick as /u/PuterPro mentions, because otherwise you'll never get it off, or damage your sheet. I've actually managed to tear up my PEI before because of over adhesion. To be honest, I've also ruined a BuildTak sheet with it, but that was because I was printing too close. (Fortunately, BuildTak is super easy to replace compared to PEI). To clean off the gluestick residue after the print, use a wet (water) paper towel. Don't just rub it with IPA, as it will make an even bigger mess.

Hope this helps and best of luck!

> Even if I manage to get it to stick right, the booger on the nozzle starts pulling up my first layer.

Yeah, you should really get a sock for the hotend. Get the one with a tiny hole for the nozzle. Really. Order a few today from Amazon. Today. For me, it's not worth trying to print PETG without a sock.

Also, one thing I do is print a skirt (not brim) that is three lines wide (or even more for a small model), 15 mm away from the model, and only 1 layer deep. Any snot left on the nozzle from the purge gets wiped off. HOWEVER, that can leave a snot blob on the skirt, and so (a) the skirt can get pulled away from the sheet, and (b) if if not, the second layer of the skirt can fail. That's why I print the skirt 15 mm away from the model, and only one layer. If you manage to get the skirt printed this way (even with blobs and the skirt loose), and have a nozzle with a sock, chances are pretty good everything else will work. This has increased my yield with PETG prints dramatically.

Of course, you need a clean bed, etc.

It's actually pretty amazing --- I sometimes get horrible looking skirts, with portions detached from the heatbed, big blobs, etc., and then a beautiful part printed inside the skirt.

The one downside is that the single layer skirt can be really hard to remove. I use a part I printed (for another purpose) that is shaped a bit like an air hockey striker --- it's a disk with a handle essentially. I just slide the striker against the skirt to break it free.

> Sorry, I'm just feeling pretty defeated at the moment. I wish mr prusa would stop by and tune up my printer for me.

Have hope! Try my method. But if it works, you have to post your print!

> Damn thing start streaming filament out as soon as the temp hits 205C.

That's super weird. Either it's wet, or your hotend thermistor is way off.

Is this happening on a filament change? I've actually had residual Hatchbox PLA filament squirt out of the nozzle when loading PETG. But after loading everything was fine.

Yeah, that totally blows. Do you have the glass bed?

I do. Here's what works for me and I've never damaged a print in the process.

1. Buy a better removal tool. The tool that ships with the Ender is a steaming pile of crap. I recommend this one:
   
   https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075SLTY8B
   
   It's actually a set of two tools. The longer tool will rock your world! Ok, perhaps I'm overselling it a bit, but it's amazing. Unfortunately, the shorter tool sucks rocks.
   
   
2. A tiny spritz of alcohol (buy a cheapo spray bottle) along one edge of your print will magically loosen it up a bit, regardless of the current bed temperature.
   
   
3. Finally, combine 1) and 2) with one last top secret ingredient. Position the tool at just the right angle (you'll figure it out) and tap the end of it with your favorite, nearby, solid object. In my case, that's a hairbrush. Your's might be, for example, a piece of last night's rock-hard leftover pizza. In any case, with a tap or two, you should be good to go.
   
   Good luck and happy printing!

1. Motor stopper dampeners. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C7FRLNX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 These will greatly reduce sound on your machine.
   
2. X and Y motor supports Y = https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2845950 X = https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2793110 with dampeners. This'll help alleviate belt tension on the motor/belts and quiet the pritner even more. You'll need some M3x40mm screws for this.
   
3. Flash the firmware with Marlin and enable the heat runaway options. This will stop the printer from burning down your house if a critical error occurs. https://www.printedsolid.com/blogs/news/installing-marlin-1-1-9-on-your-cr-10s-with-mesh-bed-leveling-thermal-protection-better-menu-layout-and-finally-power-resume
   
4. Add a Mirror tile to your bed. Most CR10s beds bow in the middle. Mirrors are totally flat, so just make a mirror your new print bed/print bed base.
   
5. Print the Petsfang upgrade https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2759439 and get a Noctua 40mm fan. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072JK9GX6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and a 50mm blower fan https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071WMHNG5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 You can choose if you want the 10 or 20mm noctua fans. Petsfang page says all the screws you'll need.
   
6. Print some support stuff and get some rods to make supports. This'll reduce your print height by 20mm, but it'll greatly stabilize your printer when you do large prints, alleivating weird artifacting when the print gets higher up. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2805226
   
7. Get a better Boaing tube. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079P92HN9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (I'm not sure if this is the best out there.)
   
8. A steel wear resistant nozzle if you wanna print things other than PLA/TEPG.
   
9. A PEI plate to make it much easier to get prints off. Preferably a flexible one. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RDQF7KQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
10. A spool mount https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2440814 which will lets you use bigger spools all while greatly reducing the amount of strain on the extruder and the noise that the filliment makes when it turns.
    
11. Control box cooling fan and base. I've yet to install this one myself as I'm not sure how to wire up the fans, but this'll greatly reduce fan noise and keep the control box super cool. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2729888 It'll also remove the problem where if the print goes over 300mm in height where the filiment can sometimes snap due to strain.
    
12. A BLTouch to make bed leveling automatic more or less. I've yet to install this myself. https://www.amazon.com/ANTCLABS-BLTouch-Leveling-Premium-Extension/dp/B076PQG1FF/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=bltouch&qid=1562832293&s=industrial&sr=1-3
    
    ​
    
    Anyone got any others?

For the bed plate I like to use 1/4" or more cast aluminum tooling plate. My latest build will use an 8mm plate and one of these heaters:
https://www.amazon.com/approx-KEENOVO-Universal-Flexible-Silicone/dp/B00V81ZI70

I'll be adding a 30 mil layer of PEI to the top surface.

Here's the bed plate from the top:
http://mark.rehorst.com/misc/corexy/bed_plate_top.jpg
I cut it from an oversized piece of aluminum plate then milled the edges to final dimensions. The leveling is obviously done at three points using a unique design that allows the plate to expand when heated without putting any lateral force in the supports.

Here's a different view of the plate on the machine:
http://mark.rehorst.com/misc/corexy/01180003.jpg

This sketch shows the support scheme:
http://mark.rehorst.com/misc/corexy/Bed%20supports.png
The left support (the ball) sits in a conical hole which constrains motion in X and Y axes. The right support site in a conical slot that constrains motion in Y but allow the plate to expand in X, and the third support at the top just contacts the flat surface of the bed, allowing it to expand in X and Y. All three points can pivot freely while making leveling adjustments, and all are constrained in Z by springs (and gravity) that hold the plate in contact with the supports.

You are good, no worries!

I got this guy:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NAK9JFO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I believe it's genuine, but if not I can at least attest to its validity. Literally ZERO issues over the past year and a half. Prints beautifully.

If you prefer getting it straight from them, here's ya boy:

https://e3d-online.com/v6-all-metal-hotend?gclid=Cj0KCQjwoKzsBRC5ARIsAITcwXHo8yYQOrXG0QXg0n_A2hYDcjYz5T8NXcjrL9MagUbDfNrqgSl04vEaAmc5EALw_wcB

It fits right into the carriage of the old one where it clamps around the heatsink and you put the fan on the front, just like the original.

Two big changes with this.

First:

The new wires it comes with are great, but sadly not the same plastic connectors on the end that fit into the motherboard down in the printer, so I chopped off the old ones and swapped them over to one end of the new wires, so they could be plugged in.

I never soldered before getting this printer, but, as I like to stay... "YOU GON' Learn Ta-day!"

Leave enough old wire there for error (or I did at least, for shrink wrap or electrical tape to more than cover the solder point). The convenience of doing this is the other end of the wires leave connectors right near the hotend for the thermistor and the fan which can be disconnected for any reason you need in the future. (its also a negative I found later- as its a flex point on the wire, my thermistor wore out there due to the constant movement and I replaced it for just 8 bucks. However, this is where those quick connectors near the hotend paid off though, because zero soldering required. I snagged a few extras for longevity.

​

Secondly:

Once it is installed you'll notice it doesn't stick down as far, and when you go to "Home" location, you can't get lower to reach the bed.

If I was home I would snag a picture.. but basically I got longer bed screws (4), 4 spacers (1/4 inch I think?) and incorporated the same springs on top of the spacers (with the longer screws through them). I just took an original screw into a hardware store, found longer versions and spacers that looked like these below:

https://www.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED-Spacer-3ZMA8?cm_sp=Product_Details-_-Products_Based_on_Your_Search-_-IDPPLARECS&cm_vc=IDPPLARECS

You'll need spacers OR new longer springs... your call. Pain in the butt to put it together but once screwed in, works like a charm with the same functionality as it did prior, just higher up where the new hotend can reach it.

​

Feel free to reach out if you have more questions or concerns.

Not from Prusa, but here are some other things I use over and over and over and am glad I bought. These are not affiliate links and you can probably find some of these items cheaper elsewhere:

Thin craft spatulas for removing prints: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075SLTY8B (some say "never scrape using a metal tool" but these are very thin and flexible and really help with some prints)

Cleaning filament: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MVIYNFW

Silicone socks: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07779TP4S

Good quality hex drivers https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006O5014 these will make assembly and maintenance MUCH easier than the included tools. Especially the smallest one that fits the set screw in the Bondtech extruder gear really well, much better than the "decent" hex keys I already had in my toolkit

Aside from the aforementioned glass plate, there are several easy and useful mods. There's many threads going over this actually. Search around.

Get this and make some mods using the bearings. I made the Filament Guide along with a snap-in filament guide for closer to the spool. Both highly recommended.
Also using the bearings, I made a Spool Holder. Not crucial, but might save wear on extruder mechanism.

Get This or something like it and at least install the couplers instead of stock ones. I haven't replaced the tube itself yet. It requires fairly precise cutting but you can get PTFE tube cutting guides and cutters printed from thingiverse.

Get This and install it before glass bed or anything else, except for maybe a bed handle (which you can print from thingiverse. Handle isn't crucial but will help.

I haven't yet but will get:

• a better extruder (all metal or a bmg clone)
  
• a better hot-end (for printing of other stuff, like nylon if I want)
  
  Buy Spare Nozzles, including a hardened steel one if you want to do any amount of printing with wood-grain, metal or glow-in-the-dark material.

Hey I also new on this, got my printer a month ago, I was super exited as everyone here when receive their printer, I read a LOT while waiting for the printer, so I heard that the stock bed springs are crappy, so I ordered this ones FYSETC Bed springs, also ordered the Aluminium Extruder feeder, and read about the leveling, the paper sheath method, which I think you should already heard about, I did it at the first time the printer gave me a nearly perfect first print (demo dog) , after a few prints and on my third print I came home just to find a mess on my printer, so I did my research again, find out it was bed adhesion, and find out that the best way was glass bed + PEI sheet was the best option, while waiting to arrive I tried to clean the stock bed sheet with mineral spirits (did have rubbing alcohol) but it worsened the adhesion, so I used one adhesion sticker that comes with the overture filament, and again flawless adhesion, at least for the first 4 prints, then again the frustration, I tried some glue stick and worked but it leaves a mess on your print so I decided to try painters tape directly onto the aluminum bed (which lucky for me it is perfectly flat) this is the best adhesion I have tried, problem is also makes a mess with the down face of the print, Finally mi Gass-PEI arrived, (3 days ago), it has a great adhesion but is not perfect, also you have to raise the Z limit switch to compensate the 5~ mm of Glass-PEI, find out that it isn't perfectly flat it has a good adhesion and leaves a very smooth down face, but at some section it does't sticks well and leaves artifacts on the down face, I'm currently working to fix this.

Sorry for the long post, need to talk about my frustration and let you know you are not alone on this, once you manage to make a good print is very satisfying, I have a PETG filament waiting to be used but I don't think is a great idea to try it until a learn more about 3D printing and the Ender.

Everything he said is spot on. I have 4 cheap Chinese printers and those are all the recommended upgrades regardless of the brand.

I recommend this power supply. It can provide 50% more power and has a cooling fan.

These mosfets have worked very well for me and lowered bed heating times significantly as well as make your printer a lot safer.

Personally I haven't had any issues with the bed connector, but maybe some epoxy or hot glue would keep the wires from moving around too much.

One of the best upgrades I did was to flash Marlin onto the board as the stock firmware is kind of crappy.
This also allows the use of a Inductive proximity sensor which makes leveling the bed significantly easier.

The bearings he recommended, the Drylin ones, will make the movements of your printer a little smoother and a lot quieter.

The belts stretch. The ones from China are rarely reinforced. I'm lazy so i just tighten them every so often. But it would be worthwhile to just start with the higher end reinforced belts.

That aside, once your printer is up and running and somewhat calibrated, head over to thingiverse and search for your printer. There are thousands of upgrades available.

Good luck!

I'm sure that others will jump in here too, but my research has shown the MicroSwiss ALL METAL hotend tends to have many more problems than the E3D all metal hotend.


The MicroSwiss has the advantage of being a plug & play direct drop in, while the E3D you have to print a mounting plate.


That said, the E3D is a superior design (IMHO) with tens of thousands in use on many different 3D printer brands.


The MicroSwiss all metal seems to have problems with clogging, and some users have actually gone back to the stock hotend.


The E3D also allows upgrading to the Volcano version which many think is the cat's meow for the CR-10 machines because of their big build area.


The Volcano uses a 40 watt heater and a long nozzle to give a longer heat up time for hotter filaments being extruded at high speed (the plastic is in the melt zone longer, gets more time to melt).


The Volcano also opens the door to much bigger nozzles like .8; 1.0; and even a 1.2 which allows extruding much more plastic cutting big print times dramatically and also gives much greater parts strength.


I plan on getting an E3D GENUINE hotend. I have an E3D clone on my Monoprice Select v2.1 and it was a LOT of trouble to get it running right, sometimes it pays to not cheap out! LOL!


Here's the E3D page, as well as two sources:


E3D Home: https://e3d-online.com/v6


Amazon: https://smile.amazon.com/E3D-All-metal-HotEnd-Full-Approximately/dp/B00NAK9JFO


Filastruder: https://www.filastruder.com/products/all-metal-e3d-v6-hotend

One nice thing on Filastruder is that you can customize the kit you buy .

Now I prepare myself for the slings and arrows from happy MicroSwiss people. :-)

PuterPro

So far working with the Anet A8 has been an extreme lesson in patience. It's honestly a bad printer but if you're willing to spend time and a little money, you can make it decent. First up should be fire safety. Immediately upgrade to the latest version of Marlin and install a mosfet for at least the bed, if not both the bed and hot end.

I would also recommend ordering new bearings before assembling the printer. The ones it comes with are pure garbage and for $10 it's an easy purchase. Another thing that might be worth investing in immediately is better belts.

After it's assembled and you can print well enough print an X belt tensioner and a Y belt tensioner. After that it might not hurt to print some braces for the weak acrylic frame. If you're hardcore about the frame check out the Anet AM8 upgrade which replaces the acrylic one with metal for about $60.

Good luck!

PEI, Polyethylenimine, is a type of plastic and you can buy it in various forms (including sheets). It's handy because it's nice and sticky to plastics like PLA when it's heated but releases well when it's at room temperature (a few taps along the edge of the base of the print releases most things). The only issue I've had with it is that TPU sticks a bit too well, but TPU's really best printed on a pure glass bed anyways.

I've got a sheet of PEI adhered to a glass sheet and clipped to my print bed. It works great.

What bed are you using? If its aluminum, you may want to go 110v rather than 12/24v because its got much higher thermal mass and takes a good bit more energy to heat up. If you're going PEI on top, its also a thermal insulator, so you need a bit more oomph to get it heated up quickly.

I'm using this one: https://www.amazon.com/approx-KEENOVO-Universal-Flexible-Silicone/dp/B00V81ZI70

It heats up the bed very quickly, maintains temperature very evenly, and is extremely well made. You just need to get a DC/AC SSR to control it. The Duet will report a warning that its overpowered when you run the heater calibration on it, but its overpowered in a good way. I installed a second dedicated power switch and plug on the printer for the 110v circuit, so I can power the Duet with the bed shut off or unplugged (which is safer for screwing around with the printer).

Make sure you run a line from the ground pin on your 110v feed to the aluminum frame on the printer, so if you ever get a short, it'll run power to ground and trip a GFCI outlet/breaker rather than making you dead when you touch it.

It took maybe three weeks to get, even from Amazon, but I think it was worth the wait.

Edit: if you go that route, I uploaded to Thingiverse a protective cap for the particular solid state relay I used that better protects the 110v circuit from accidental contact: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2497356

Borosilicate Glass Bed is absolutely worth it. Even when you wait for your bed to cool after printing (you should) you'll struggle removing parts with Ender 3 print surface. With that borosilicate glass, you'll get a perfectly flat surface that will release parts easily after cooling.

The line down the left hand side is now defaulted in the Cura 3.5.x printer profile. You can modify the start and end gcode under Settings > Printer > Manage Printer. The cura folks adapted it from another person who posted it on Youtube and then modified it to improve it a bit. For instance it now starts both bed and the element at the same time.

Finally, Cura 3.5.1, while supposedly fixing the Ender 3 Printer Profile, is still pretty shakey. It doesn't seem to render good gcode. I've switched back to 3.4.1... more of a PSA than resposne to your question.

I had a problem somewhat similar at times. My ender 3's bed was a bit warped. The buildtak surface worked well (never used tape) but yes, prints were a bit difficult to get off without scraping and damaging myself or the bed surface sometimes. So i bought this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F6CLTD7/
And it has changed everything. As long as you get the bed heated up to 60 degrees (and let it sit for a short bit to make sure the actual glass is that temp) you will get fantastic, flat, first layers. And prints that pop off on their own once the glass cools down. Warning, make sure the nozzle doesn't scratch the glass and don't use sharp spatulas on it. I bought these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075SLTY8B and they work perfectly. Thin, not sharp, flexible, pops things off no problem, even if the bed isn't cooled down.

Hold the glass to the bed with some tiny binder clips. Just make sure the print head doesn't run into the clips and you're good. I ended up changing out the cooling set up so that i had a thinner profile around the extruder to make sure i lost less print area due to the clips. I printed this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2911981 and like it, but there are many other fang style ones out there.

For leveling i use a piece of printer paper, folded over. Took calipers to it and it's about .2mm in that set up and i level just so the nozzle scratches the paper (not holds it) and that seems to work for me.

Those couplers are trash and so is the PTFE tube they sent. They may work for a while but you'll want to swap them sooner rather than later. Here's a list of upgrades you'll probably want to do. You'll also want to look up a tutorial on how to upgrade your firmware so you can activate safety features (thermal runaway protection specifically). This also doesn't include a BLTouch or EZABL (auto bed levelers) as I have yet to make a choice personally.

Couplers and Tube:
SIQUK 3 Pieces Teflon Tube PTFE... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FPJHRTQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Metal Extruder: ( original plastic one will wear out or break)
Ender 3 Creality 3D Upgrade... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KSS8FRQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Bed Springs: (more than needed but oh well)
SIQUK 16 Pieces Heated Bed... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K9PBML5?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Glass Bed: (goes on top of print bed which is usually warped, printing on an uneven surface not so bueno)
Creality Upgraded 3D Printer... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DS2LZF1?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Raspberry Pi 3B+ for OctoPrint: (still need microsd card for it I believe)
CanaKit Raspberry Pi 3 B+ (B... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BC6WH7V?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Stepper Motor Dampers: (silences the motors, no more sounding like dial up internet lol will need to print mounts from thingiverse)
Upgraded NEMA 17 Stepper Steel... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DNT72SF?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Heat Sinks For Stepper Motors: (once stepper motors have dampers and aren't attached to the metal frame, they can get a little hot)
40mmx40mmx10mm Black Radiator... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KWVGGGK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Hot end silicone sleeve: (may not need, mine came with one instead of the old insulation)
Creality Original 3D Printer... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HNXJ39T?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Extra Filament: (ender 3 only comes with a small sample "spool", this is just a brand I use and have had decent results with. The metallic silver hue shows off detail well)
3D Printer PLA Filament 1.75MM... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ME7YUIU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Get some essential tools: those wire cutty clipper things (for cutting support structures off your prints) and a painter's scalpel for peeling prints off the heatbed.

Consider getting the upgrade kit for the ender 3 pro sometime; the flexible removable heatbed is a HUGE convenience for getting prints off and cleaning the heatbed.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072WS3M9H

This angle bend is EXTREMELY helpful. You don't have to get this specific product, but trust me that you want a tool like this.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A81FXMK

The scalpel I bought isn't for sale anymore but this one looks good enough.

Look into purchasing a PEI (Polythermide) sheet to put onto your printing surface. I did so and it works incredible!

Just make sure that you take your time while applying it to reduce the amount of air bubbles. I picked up this kit from amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KGDTPQK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Edit: It takes virtually no maintenance, and everything sticks to it incredibly well. I also forgot to mention that I have only tested it with ABS, but I hear PLA works well too. I have also heard that PETG sticks better than ABS or PLA.

Edit 2: I also should mention that I was able to stick it directly to the aluminum bed. Make sure to clean it really well if you do plan on taking this route.

I struggled with adhesion for the first couple weeks of printing. Then I swapped my stock bed for a glass + PEI combo. Got the flatness of the glass + the adhesion of the PEI. Once the plate cools down a few degrees, the parts come right off. No need for sticky hairspray to get things to stick, and no need to put the bed in the freezer to get things to unstick. Best upgrade I’ve made on my ender 3 (~$30 total). Always wipe down with isopropyl alcohol in between prints for best adhesion.

Tip: I also recommend gently wet sanding the PEI. Helps with adhesion and creates a very nice matte finish on the first layer.

Glass Bed:
Nearly Natural 4855 35in.... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JKGNB6W?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

PEI:
Gizmo Dorks PEI Sheet 3D Printer... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GSJSDWR?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Some other things I'd recommend


TL-Smoothers https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B071WG3SZQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I know you already upgraded the extruder assembly but this duel geared version is nice: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SY745CF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
PEI Bed surface (has to date been the best upgrade): https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GSJSDWR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and if you don't have a glass: https://smile.amazon.com/Creality-Ender-Glass-Upgraded-235x235x4mm/dp/B07RD6D2ZQ/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=creality+glass&qid=1571456745&sr=8-5


I'd recommend applying the pei in the smooth side of the glass that way you can flip it over to have the textured side if you want.

Hey! I got the same printer and was using ABS for my first couple prints. Couple things--First the built in items on the SD card are sliced for PLA printing, so you need to up the temps on the extruder and bed--I had success just upping it to 240/80. This got it to stick, but I had to get my z positioning (the thumb wheels on the corners) just right. Also I absolutely needed a raft for anything to really stick.

If you're slicing your own items in Cura, the default filament size is 2.8mm and you're probably using 1.75mm filament.

Unfortunately on any prints longer than an hour the ABS would start to curl off the bed--I chalked that up to the somewhat breezy room I have my printer set up in currently.

tl;dr Make sure your bed/z is leveled precisely so that a piece of standard printer paper can slide underneath the nozzle in each corner with resistance. Try upping your temps and checking your slicer settings as well.

/u/Redditull mentioned a glass bed. I picked one up on amazon, this fits the bed pretty nicely (just lays between the corner screws)--you do need to raise your z-stop, there's a metal lever contraption screwed into one of the sides of your printer's frame that you need to unscrew and raise. I also attached a PEI sheet to this and I used thermal pads to attach all this to the bed. This all improves adhesion greatly, I've mostly been using PLA after the difficulties I had but I would imagine ABS would stick just fine as well.

Borosilicate Glass

PEI Sheet

Thermal Sheet

Watch this video to help with assembly. The included instructions are full of engrish and hard to follow. This guy makes it easy, and adds some handy tips. If you're not replacing the bowden tube immediately (you don't need to, but it's a cheap and relatively easy upgrade), skip the steps in his video where he removes the tube and its couplers.

Read this comment for my advice on how to level the bed. Leveling is a misnomer - you don't want it level compared to gravity, but compared to the gantry. The usual advice involves sliding a piece of paper under the nozzle as a feeler gauge. That'll get you close - the steps in my comment will get you just about perfect.

Once you've done that, this fan shroud is one of the few things I'd call an essential upgrade. Also a glass bed.

While the nozzle will wear, it's not significantly more than normal use. Hardened nozzles can help, but transmit heat less effectively. Replacement tips are literally about $1.50 each (BIQU 3D-M6 0.4mm Brass Extruder Nozzle Print Head for 1.75mm Filament 3D Printer (Pack of 5pcs) ) super easy to replace, and frequently cheaper/easier than cleaning.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LAYCRAA/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

works great but I frankly only replaced it once, after I needed to replace it a second time I left it off and have not noticed a difference. Without the insulation it is easier to keep clean and to get the nozzle to seat nicely when switching nozzles.

What you absolutely MUSTTTTTTT!!!! order? Nothing. The printer works as is. But if you want to do yourself a favour, here's a list of what I consider essentials:


- New springs, both bed and extruder. I don't have a link for an extruder one as I upgraded my entire extruder drive frame and that came with a better spring

- A new removable bed. Creality glass bed or glass with a PEI sheet is my bed of choice

- Thermal pad to avoid the annoying bed clamps. Cut squares out of it, lay them in a checkered pattern alternating between thermal pad and nothing and place your bed on top. They will hold the bed in place and help with heating

- Stepper dampers if your printer is anywhere near where you spend your time, it sounds like a bloody jackhammer right out of the box

- New tube fittings, the stock ones are terrible and will give out in a matter of weeks at best. They also barely hold onto the tube

There are a ton of other great upgrades, but I think a good idea is to get a feel for it yourself.

What you can do, however, is check out some printable upgrades. I have this thread where people contributed with their choice of printable upgrades. It's a great list you can refer to later. Essentials on that are the fan guard and LCD back cover simply because the Ender 3 as is has the fan and back of the LCD exposed and that makes it crazy vulnerable to dust and gook damage

For assembly, follow the videos, not the written instructions (if you have them).

As far as mods, at the very least get mosfets like this and also search in this sub for ways people improved their print quality. I know for a fact others will recommend more mods.

Just a heads up, you picked a controversial printer. I have had luck with mine, but it's not perfect and many people are going to let you know that. Be safe, and happy printing!

i have an ender 3 pro and after saying no to any upgrades I finally started to see what everyone is talking about 6 months down the road. here is a list of things that you will see a lot of you tubers tell you to replace. the YouTube channel Tomb of 3D Printed Horrors is a great resource for everything about the ender 3.

1. new boden tube and couplings that are alot better to use then stock https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DC594D6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
2. THIS IS A MUST HAVE! a new metal extruder (eliminates a crap ton of extrusion issues) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079JZ374W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
3. Glass bed (best bed adhesion with 0 cleanup) this is optional but does solve a ton of issues down the road https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JKGNB6W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
4. extra nozzles in a variety of sizes (not needed but nice to play with different sizes and to clear any clogs fast you can just replace the nozzle....i run .2, .4, and .8) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JPZ7TNX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   the YouTube Chanel Tomb of 3D Printed Horrors has a step by step build guide for your ender 3 ( i used it for mine) he will recommend most of this list as well. He also has other videos on the slicer settings you will use for Cura. for D&D models you can use this google doc list https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1PemvBH7LC-hm4KoeA8OXVu5_k963Vpmw7kOEA_1tzWs/edit?pli=1#gid=0

I LOVE MY ENDER 3'S. I have one running stock everything (except the bed) and the other is well, an ender 3 in name only now. (I know you mentioned you are in the EU, but I have provided links to my sources for US based distributors)

Printer setup:

Ender 3

MKS (MKS GEN L V1.0)

TMC (2208's)

Micro Swiss All Metal Hotend ( MS all metal )

Custom Modified heater block (installed 300°c heater cartridge and 450°c capable thermistor from slice engineering) (heater) & (thermistor)

Bantamfeeder Extruder ( bantam design ) ... will be changing this out soon when I decide what next. Works well just not my cup of tea for convenience purposes.

Bullseye Duct ( https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2759439)

3-point bed conversion for leveling made easy (Leveling guide and 3 point leveling adapter). HERE IS A COMPLETED DESIGN OF THESE CHANGES( My bed setup ... < < < this is my stock ender 3)

Borosilicate glass bed w/ PEI (Glass bed & PEI Sheet)

PSU (Mean Well NES-350-24 24V 350 Watt UL Switching Power Supply 120 Volt)

​

OCTOPRINT SERVER

RPI 3b+ (raspberry pi w/ octoprint)

Pi Cam (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L2SY756/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

​

So now you see why I say not really an ender 3 anymore, only in name

I bought a BLTouch a few weeks ago a love the dam little thing. I got this one on Amazon that came with extension cables from 1-2 meters: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076PQG1FF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The connection for the cable ends are "Dupont" like others have said before. You can but them for cheap on Amazon, if you don't like those type strip the wire and I say use Pitch JST-SM connectors.

I was going to get the ezabl kit but after watching a lot of videos are reading things people said BLTocuh is best for glass best because the ezabl can get bad reader from glass.


Edit: Oh and while installing the BLTouch a lot of guides say strip pin 29 wire from the LCD cable so the BLTouch can use it, but you dont want to do that buy this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/CR-10-Ender-3-Pin-27-Board-for-BLTouch-or-filament-sensor-BL-Touch-Creality/302960671554?hash=item4689dcfb42:g:GOIAAOSw~JFcM50B:rk:1:pf:0

• Get some 99% isopropyl alcohol. I get it from amazon.
  
  
• And definitely checkout this guide on getting your bed level. It will save a lot of headaches.
  https://github.com/PrusaOwners/prusaowners/wiki/Bed_Leveling_without_Wave_Springs
  
  
• Nozzle socks are good, can make life easier after a catastrophe.
  https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-E3D-Socks-Pack-V6-SOCK-PRO-3PACK-x/dp/B07779TP4S
  
  
• As for filament, Hatchbox , eSUN, and Amazon brands have been working great for me.

I got this one. I started with a glue stick but found out just washing soap and warm water provides great adhesion. I did increase bed temp to 70 from 60 also.

https://www.amazon.com/Official-Creality-3D-Tempered-235x235x3mm/dp/B07F16WPR5?ref_=bl_dp_s_mw_17936569011

You can get the insulation, and wrap it in with some kapton tape. Buy the tape seperately.

You can also get silicone socks made for that hotend. Might not insulation as good, but easier to keep the hotend clean and easier to replace.

I have the Athorbot surface on two CR-10S printers and I love it. I had been cutting them down to fit my Ender 3 for a while. Then I bought a TH3D EZMat for my Ender 3 and fell in love. I'll probably get EZMats for the CR-10s when the Athorbots wear out. EZMat has a little more grip and seems to me a bit more durable.

I've also had issues due to bad tape. The green frog tape is horrible. Before I got my PLA sheet, I used the cheap wal-mart type wide blue painters tape and it worked great. I liked to use kapton, but it's just too delicate to last very long. I was changing it out every 2 weeks. PEI is the answer (waay tougher than buildtak)...lasts about a year and everything sticks to it. Also, since PEI has such good adhesion, your z level is a little more forgiving for that first layer.

https://www.amazon.com/Gizmo-Dorks-Printing-Surface-Adhesive/dp/B01KGDTPQK/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_328_bs_img_2/136-9930884-8852130?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=B25F74EX68VYED1NFMY2

There is This glass bed with a coating on to that helps stuff to stick. I have it worked for a bit but after about a month stuff would not stick and I started to use hairspray to keep stuff stuck and its working great now. Here it is on amazon as well

Here's the aluminum extruder assembly. The plastic one that comes on the printer WILL break. It's just a matter of time. They crack from stress after a while and even before that they creep and you'll start getting missed extrusion.

Here's the stiffer bed springs. You won't have to compress these as much to get a good stiffness.

Another really popular upgrade is this glass build plate. It has a special coating that makes it so parts stick without adhesive, and it leaves a really smooth surface on your prints. Parts stick really well then when it cools down they self-release.

The 3 upgrades I linked are extremely popular upgrades. You can get by without the glass bed, it's just an option because the stock bed will wear out eventually.

He means like this, adhered to glass, or directly to the heater.

I'd personally recommend glass with hairspray. Best print bed I've gotten yet!

+1 for the silicone sock! I am now running those and they are great! Here is what I ordered https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07779TP4S I think you will be okay to heat up your hotend, the thermistor wires are definitely not going anywhere.

Seconding ChituBox, it's a lot better at supports and just overall usability.

Also, I've had zero issue removing prints from the plate by using a thin metal scraper. The one I've been using is here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A81FXMK

The shorter one is perfect for getting under prints with a little bit of force.

Gizmo Dorks PEI Sheet, 8" x 8" 3D Printing Build Surface with 3M 468MP Adhesive Tape https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KGDTPQK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_WB3qybRCVC0HD

To increase your chances, make sure you use some quality PLA. The difference is in the chemistry and the quality control. I'm getting some great results with MatterHackers PLA. Pro grade, I think it's called.

Info | Details
----|-------
Amazon Product | BIQU 3D-M6 0.4mm Brass Extruder Nozzle Print Head for 1.75mm Filament 3D Printer (Pack of 5pcs)
>Amazon donates 0.5% of the price of your eligible AmazonSmile purchases to the charitable organization of your choice. By using the link above you get to support a chairty and help keep this bot running through affiliate programs all at zero cost to you.

Buy some [3D printer surfaces](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073TW738G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1) off of Amazon, cut it to shape and use it to replace the PEI. I've had much success also sticking one on the spring steel sheet and using the steel side for super sticky PETG and the other side for everything else.

Build plate is tearing up a little when you remove the print.

I suggest purchasing a glass replacement to go over the top of your build plate. Note: You'll have to calibrate your Z-axis a little unless if you get super lucky and the glass plate is exactly the same thickness as your current plate. Amazon has one for $20

The first thing I did when I got mine was replace the stock extruder fan with a radial fan + a diiicooler link

I also printed a z-axis stabilizer

Upgrading the to an all metal hot end is also a solid choice

Getting a pei sheet and a piece of borosilicate glass for your build plate will help too.

as someone brand new to 3d printing--

I just bought an ender 3 last week... I hear a glass bed and aluminum nozzle are crucial upgrades.. Looks like a couple third party ones are discounted for prime day-- are any of them worth while? Is there a difference?

https://www.amazon.com/Sovol-Creality-Replacement-Extruder-Aluminum/dp/B07KSS8FRQ/ref=sr_1_16?keywords=ender+3&psr=PDAY&qid=1563208182&s=prime-day&sr=1-16#customerReviews

https://www.amazon.com/3D-Extruder-Aluminum-Filament-Creality/dp/B07B96QMN2?tag=slicinc-20&ascsubtag=e4bbd68ca71e11e9b248d2e5958396b20INT

https://www.amazon.com/Extruder-Upgraded-Replacement-Aluminum-Filament/dp/B07NVBYKTY/ref=sr_1_22_sspa?keywords=ender+3&psr=PDAY&qid=1563208182&s=prime-day&sr=1-22-spons&psc=1#customerReviews

​

https://www.amazon.com/DIYE-Premium-Printer-Borosilicate-Creality/dp/B07NDJTV3V/ref=sr_1_17?keywords=ender+3&psr=PDAY&qid=1563208182&s=prime-day&sr=1-17

https://www.amazon.com/CHPOWER-Creality-Platform-Upgraded-235x235MM/dp/B07GL2NMV5?tag=slicinc-20&ascsubtag=e135e994a71e11e9b972a6226f9167e90INT

On my machine, I have added the following upgrades:

• Inductive sensor for bed leveling
  
• Dual Mosfets
  
• Reinforced Belts
  
• Buildtak clone (optional)
  
• X and Y cable chains (optional)
  
• Y axis belt tensioner (optional)
  
• OctoPi running on a Raspberry Pi 3 B (optional)
  
• Semi-circular fan attachment
  
• Top Mounted Spool Holder (optional, not for heavy spools!)
  
  I hope this helps!
  

That kit includes the genuine BLTouch, which is good. I got mine for $38 on Amazon, printed my own mouting bracket, and spliced into a wire to wire it in.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076PQG1FF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If budget is a concern, and you're up for a little more DIY, you could go that route. Or buy just a cheap Pin 27 board, and print the mount for the probe.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Creality-Ender3-CR-10-Pin-27-Board-for-BLTouch-or-Filament-Sensor-BLTouch-2PCSA/254398567391?hash=item3b3b5613df:g:kHsAAOSwzeddsRVe

I started with a Trianglelab 3D Touch. It was OK for a few days, then began failing, so I changed to the genuine version, which has worked better for me.

i ended up buying this glass bed. Overall its pretty good. Just use purple glue stick you can buy anywhere and youll be fine. albeit for me i need to call in NASA engineers to get mine off as well. :/

​

https://www.amazon.com/Glass-Print-Borosilicate-Printer-235x235x3-7mm/dp/B07JKGNB6W/ref=sr_1_5?crid=3C42WXXA97BWB&keywords=ender+3+glass+bed&qid=1569282569&sprefix=ender+3+glas+bed%2Caps%2C219&sr=8-5

Wow, they sure don't waste many electrons on listing the motor specs.

So, first off why do you think that you need a replacement stepper motor? They're pretty tough little beasties and, while there are failure modes, more often the fault is in the connector, wiring, or driver.

Warning: Never disconnect a stepper motor that driven by a microstepping controller (like this one) while the motor is energized. That can blow the driver chip.

With that out of the way, have you tried operating the motor when it's plugged into another driver?

If it is the motor then you can probably replace it with a NEMA 17 that has 200 steps/rev (1.8-deg), rated current 0.8-1.7 amps, 4-8 ohms coil resistance, and inductance 5-10 mH. Keep an eye on it initially to see if it's running too hot. Something like this one.

I don't have experience with that printer personally. However, from what I've read it seems like a decent machine. For about $100 less you can get an Ender 3, which is a good printer for the price and has a large community behind it. You could invest the difference purchasing upgrades (BLTouch sensor, magnetic build surface, etc...) and it would outweigh the i3 Mega significantly. If you spend a little more, you can get the CR-10 and increase your build volume.

I haven't owned an Anycubic before, so I have a bias towards Crealty's products. Alternatively, Powerspec is another brand that has similar printers. If you live near a Microcenter, it's likely that they'll have that brand on display. The one near me renovated an entire section of the store to dedicate it to 3D Printing.

I bought these ones. They are probably the same as what /u/jdgmntday listed but they ship to the US. They are a little bit longer than stock, so you have to re-level your bed; but they work great.

I love my PEI sheet, at first it was strong enough I had to put my glass in the freezer to remove prints, after a while it dulls a bit, but if you sand it lightly it'll make it grippy again. Also alcohol / acetone wipe down every once in a while helps.

The one I use:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074XJLWL6/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_gSfsDbWX1S36A

Outside of the things others have mentioned (springs, tubing, couplers, SKR, BMG, etc.) - if you don't already have some good tools/spare parts you can use this time to invest in some.

• Some superlube for bearings/z-rod/etc
  
• Ferrules & crimp (great if you want to swap boards and have 'proper' cabling)
  
• A heavier duty 'get off the damn bed' thingy
  
• Reusable cable ties (save the ocean or some shit)
  
• Deburr tool
  
• M2/M3/M4 bolt set with T-nuts (great if you want to print some add-ons that attach to the extrusions)
  
• Different bed surfaces if you want to experiment
  
• Microfiber cloths for cleaning things
  
• Tooth brush and some orange cleaner for cleaning up that z-rod
  
• LED lightbar or some other form of lighting
  
• Extra hot end socks, nozzles, thermistors, heating elements (better to have one or two on hand then wait a while!)
  
• 14/12 awg silicone wire for mains connection (great with spades & ferrules!)
  
• Soldering iron, cabling, heatshrink (if you want to swap fans or do any other wire splicing activities)
  
• Ball bearing 4010 fans (or 4020, or whatever size you mod to - IMO go for 24v and avoid noctua/buck converter shenanigans)

I've tried clips with glass. The problem is your printhead and/or cooling fan will hit the clips unless you're really careful. I recommend the silicone thermal pads.

http://3dprinterwiki.info/wiki/wanhao-duplicator-i3/duplicator-i3-basic-mods/adding-a-glass-bed/

I've also tried hairspray on glass, and gluestick on glass, and painter's tape on glass. To hell with all of those, it's always either not sticky enough, or too sticky. Get yourself a sheet of PEI to put on your glass. It's soooooo much better than anything else. Perfect adhesion while printing, then your part just pops off easily when it's done.

Thermal glass $12: https://www.amazon.com/Signstek-Printer-Heated-Tempered-Borosilicate/dp/B00QQ5Q3BI

PEI + adhesive $17: https://www.amazon.com/Gizmo-Dorks-Printing-Surface-Adhesive/dp/B01KGDTPQK

>If it were me I'd probably switch back to my standard filament just to make sure my printer is still working like I'm used to. It's way better to troubleshoot a known-known.

This is actually exactly what I just did! And to my surprise, I had the same problem with the previous filament.
I actually found the issue now! At the same time I put in place the new nozzle, I also put in place one of these E3d silicon socks. And it seems this silicon sock is preventing the print to be properly cooled by my fan shroud!
I just removed it and tried again and now the print looks fine. Now I just have to try again with the glow in the dark filament but my guess is that it's gonna work!

This is where i got them from. Just make sure when you cute them that you are careful not to crush the tube. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FPJHRTQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here's the extruder: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B96QMN2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_uSFjDbRH4ZQE4

Here's the springs: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GXC1G2B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_DTFjDb1KAPZ15

There's tons more. All you need to do is search Amazon. Glad I could help.

I recommend a PEI sheet on top of the glass. I get really nice first layers using it. This is the one I use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074XJLWL6

+1... This is a WIN

1. Small mistakes make great lessons.
   
2. Still usable to print 75% as wide as the print bed, at least
   
3. Instant excuse to drop $30 on a glass bed. I got this one: Gulfcoast-Robotics-Borosilicate-Creality-Ender3- 4mm thick

FYI: I ended up ordering theses:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01J3BB000/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They're slightly longer than the original, but work great. No changes are needed to use them, though the extra length will take a few mm off the max Z height.

If you plan on maxing out the Z height, change setting in your slicer from 120mm to 117.

Honestly I would suggest getting the upgraded motors instead of the dampeners. They will be much quieter and give you better performance. For the bed I got this:
[Gulfcoast Robotics] 3D Printer... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DFTKCV9?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Get a all metal extruder top like this: https://smile.amazon.com/3D-Extruder-Aluminum-Filament-Creality/dp/B07B96QMN2

If you don't mind spending, consider just moving over to a direct drive setup like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omXgJT5V0D4

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074XJLWL6?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf this isn't an affiliate link or anything, just copy and pasted from the amazon app. I had to cut the sheet down a bit. It scores and breaks pretty nicely. Keep in mind it's about 1mm thick though.

Yeah, I got a bunch of tips. Did you join the HackerHappyHour discord? If you did, there's a 3d-printing channel in the Maker section, and I can respond faster there. (I only check reddit every few days usually) Here's the join link if you need it again: https://discord.gg/WNDrtWM

I have used 2 build plate surfaces so far. The build-tak that came with the kit, and a borosilicate glass plate I got from amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DFTKCV9

I use Slic3r (and I'm now an official contributor to it!), and I have been posting my Slic3r profiles in this gist when i get then nailed down: https://gist.github.com/LongLiveCHIEF/6363bba1e4799bff9122c03f5e8096e3#file-slic3r_ender3_config_bundle-ini

The Ender3 ini bundle that is there now is for the buildtak plate, and I'm almost done with my glass settings.

I also upgraded the bed springs, bought a BLTouch auto-bed-level, and some automotive feeler guages so I can exactly level and dial in my bed shape to slic3r

The reason I did all that, is the biggest factor for sticking is going to be temperate. If you take bed shape/leveling/distance out of the equation, it's easier to focus on temperature without worrying about other factors messing up your layers.

All in all though, I haven't had a lot of problems getting things to stick. You can see my temp settings in the gist I posted, but I've been finding lately that for Hatchbox, the best temperature seems to be 187 - 192 for the hot end, and about 57 - 63 for the bed. Technically you don't need to heat the bed for PLA, but I haven't tried a cold bed yet so couldn't tell you if that works well or not.

In my experience this problem is caused by electrical noise in the stepper motors, causing slight, regular vibrations that are transferred to the print and manifest as these odd surface waves. I have the same PowerSpec printer, with the same Microswiss all-metal replacement hotend. The only thing I don't have is the Microswiss extruder lever but I don't believe that is a factor in this situation. No matter how well everything was dialed in, my prints suffered from this problem. The only way to minimize (not eliminate) the problem was to print at 10mm/s which was not an acceptable solution for me.

I solved this issue by installing TL smoother boards in-line with the X, Y, and extruder stepper motors. You will definitely see many opinions on smoother boards here and elsewhere, ranging from "100% fix my issues" to "waste of money, fix the REAL issue", which I think are influenced by different printer models, patience levels, and the many other variables that can affect 3D printing quality. In my case, the TL smoother boards fixed 90% of my issues, the other 10% was fixed by printing and installing the Z-brace mod you see on most of our Wanhao/Monoprice/PowerSpec printers. Coupled with limiting print speeds to 50 mm/s or below, I have had very good results.
Thingiverse link for Z-brace mod for I3 Plus: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1653631

I also printed the Dii Cooler in PETG and replaced the stock cooler with one of those 24V "squirrel cage" fans, which provided much better cooling for all sides of my prints. Before that it really only cooled the front of prints, leaving the sides and especially the rear of prints looking pretty bad.
Thingiverse link for Dii Cooler for i3 Plus: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1025471

Also, I initially tried installing one of the smoother boards on my Z stepper motor, rather than the extruder but this made Z-axis movements erratic and ruined my test prints. After moving the smoother board to the extruder I have had much success. Some people say smoother boards also reduce stepper motor noise but I can't tell the difference.

Amazon listing for the 3-pack of TL smoother boards I purchased ($11 USD):
https://amazon.com/gp/product/B071WG3SZQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

$4.84 - 1x Flexible Magnetic Sheet w/ Adhesive Backing

$27.76 - 1x Spring Steel Wear Resistant Sheet

$15.99 - 1x Pack of Athorbot 3d Printing Build Surface Sheets

For CR-10, this was a quality of life improvement and setup took minutes.

Install:

1. Remove binder clips and glass or whatever you print on. Smash it for the pain it has inflicted on you over the months.
   
   
2. Peel off backing from magnetic sheet, line it up with the build plate adhesive side down, and stick it on there.
   
   
3. Take an Athos ot build sheet and stick it to the spring steel sheet.
   
   
4. Line up your spring steel sheet with the printer bed with magnet sheet on top. Wham. Let them pull together.
   
   
5. Level bed and start printing
   
   
6. Never look back...
   
   
   Yes magnets lose polarity with heat but 6 months and no change for me. You could get the heat protected magnet sheet but I heard it's not very sturdy.
   
   Prints never move during printing and removal is as easy as peel metal build sheet away from magnet and flex it so the part pops off.

I also got these, should I install them?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DNT72SF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And what about springs/more bed travel. Any improvements I can make there?

I am going to print out the bed support now.

Nozzle sock

I didn't get one at first and my nozzle/hot end got covered in all kinds of scrap that melted on and then burned on, and I started to get little dark blobs in my prints. Keeping it clean also makes it easier to change the nozzle.

Amazon.

I'd recommend the RAMPS 1.4 board as there is already a guide to installing it on the Mini and a BLTouch mechanical probe sensor that is also on Amazon.

Also note you need someway to mount your probe the hot end so since no one has done it yet with Mini (publicly anyways), you'd probably have to design your own mount and print it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0111ZSS2O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017NEGTXC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076PQG1FF/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I would get some of these to upgrade your print surface. I got them for my printer, and prints stick perfectly Everytime with absolutely no hairspray or tape, just clean it in-between prints.

https://www.amazon.com/Gizmo-Dorks-Printer-Surface-Adhesive/dp/B074XJLWL6?adgrpid=61477283172&hvadid=274674964725&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=9033692&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t2&hvqmt=e&hvrand=1527745715342828080&hvtargid=kwd-304685224209&keywords=pei+sheets&qid=1535906270&sr=8-1-spons&tag=hydsma-20&ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa&psc=1

Yes my friend

Gizmo Dorks PEI Sheet 3D Printer Build Surface 235mm x 235mm (9.3" x 9.3") with Preapplied Laminated 3M 468MP Adhesive for Creality Ender 3 or CR 20 | Made in The USA
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GSJSDWR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_gbsPDbPNKDNM9

Glass Print Bed Borosilicate Glass 3D Printer Glass Print Bed 235x235x3.7mm for Ender 3 DC-01 Glass Print Bed Borosilicate Glass https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JKGNB6W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_T-sPDbX4FQ8EG

I got this one and it is working out great!

So far I have printed PLA and PETG.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DFTKCV9?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share


Glass Bed

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:

hot end v6

---

^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

Here's the extruder I bought

And here's the bowden tubing and connectors

There's a lot of similar items on Amazon that will work; I just personally went after the popular ones with the highest reviews

Also, if you get the tubing, don't forget to get cutters if you don't have any already

This is the one I went with, it's been pretty great so far except the one unfortunate incident with this particular print.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JKGNB6W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The stock bed is known to warp sometimes. Ever since I got the glass bed for mine it's been amazing. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F16WPR5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have this here and never had any issues. Works great and gets anything off my PEI so far. https://www.amazon.com/Foreasy-Printer-Removal-Enhanced-Version/dp/B01A81FXMK/ref=sr_1_4?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1483558574&sr=1-4&keywords=3d+print+removal

You can print without it. It's not too expensive to replace and it helps keep the temperature stable and use less power(leaving more for the bed heater). You'll probably want some polyimide/kapton tape too.

Just to be clear, we're talking about this one, no?

Damn, then I definitely got the wrong bed -I bought a borosilicate glass plate and some glue sticks. I saw that bed on Amazon, but the description implied it only worked on ABS. Too bad, I liked the idea of the Build Tak, and now I'm not really in the mood to buy yet another bed and re-level it again.


But my laziness may win out in a week or so, so who knows.

Might help clarify, I'm talking about adding something similar to these in line from the PSU to the power connector for the heat bed on the main board:

https://smile.amazon.com/Printer-Module-SIMPZIA-General-Current/dp/B06XY5HBFX

EDIT: I realized by watching the TH3D video I edited into the original post, that the above MOSFET is for a 12v PSU, you should research if a 12v MOSFET is needed instead. TH3D mentioned in the video that they do carry them.

I replaced the old Buildtak bed on my 200x200 RAMPS i3 clone with a GizmoDorks PEI sheet and have been very happy with the results.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B074XJLWL6

At the time of this posting, there's a 10% off coupon (activated by clicking). Different sizes are also available.

I'm using one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Athorbot-Printing-Surface-CR-10S-printer/dp/B073TW738G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1522995749&sr=8-1&keywords=athorbot+build+sheet
Honestly I don't like it as much as genuine buildtak but it gets the job done and it is dirt cheap. I printed that with a big skirt so it wouldn't fall over, and bed adhesion is pretty solid.

I got this one. It has good reviews and the price was right.

I think most on Amazon are probably similar.

Glass Print Bed Borosilicate Glass 3D Printer Glass Print Bed 235x235x3.7mm for Ender 3 DC-01 Glass Print Bed Borosilicate Glass https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JKGNB6W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SDOEDbJSNRTST

Keenovo makes good stuff. It isn't 24v it's 120v. You can use a relay to power it from the mains. If you go this route you could get by with a smaller psu.

300 X 300mm (approx. 12" X 12") 120V 750W, KEENOVO Universal Flexible Silicone Heater Mat/Pad, 3D Printer Heated Bed Heating Element https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00V81ZI70/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_zO0PDb0BGQFH9

If you are printing directly on the glass make sure it is clean. Oil from you touching it is bad. Clean with Isopropal Alcohol before a print.

I ended up buying a cheapie print surface from China. It is mind blowingly good. Now my problem is removing the prints if I am too impatient to let it cool down first.
Initiallly I could not remove the prints but I was being too impatient. I now swap out the print glass if i have to print something straight away, otherwise I have to just let it cool before removing the print.
https://www.amazon.com/Athorbot-Printing-Surface-CR-10S-printer/dp/B073TW738G

I'm using this with my Monoprice Maker Select V2. I removed the build-tak and installed this. (First I installed the 3M adhesive to the PEI, then the PEI to the printbed.)

Main thing I changed was going from a 50c bed to 60c (Sometimes 70c)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074XJLWL6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

It is working great. It has formed some small spiderweby cracks, but nothing to worry about.

https://imgur.com/cO9tleW

https://imgur.com/5jLuAHH

https://imgur.com/40838J9

​

​

​

Cheaper than a new house. If you are even remotely considering doing long prints, you gotta get it.

This double pack was only $16 and it comes with instructions.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XY5HBFX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It includes the wires, but I think they're a bit short so I'm buying longer ones for the power supply.



I just printed this holder for it. Look through the files and you'll find the double-version.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2018906



Looking at the instructions, this looks like a trivial change. The 'hardest' part is crimping the connectors to the wires. Other than that, you're just moving some connections from the motherboard to the MOSFET.

I haven't actually done the upgrade myself. I was hoping to last night, but I had to work a double shift. I figure it will take an hour or two, with half that time looking for my wire crimpers and cleaning up the holder I printed.

> E3d
you mean something like this right????

https://www.amazon.com/E3D-All-metal-HotEnd-Full-Approximately/dp/B00NAK9JFO

>smart Lcd controller

Do you have a model # or something for this so I can look into that? I would like the option of not having to set this up next to my computer.


>gummies

What are gummies?

Edit:
Is this and this what I need for the e3d extruder?

for your size, this would be the easiest solution.

You just wouldn't be able to sand it. But it can still last a long time if you're careful with it.

Thanks for the advice. I was considering this one earlier, but wasn't sure how it would do with that too left screw. I'll give this one a try.

> apparently depending on where you get it can affect which mounts can hold it properly

I didn't realize that. I figured they were all the same with different resellers. [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076PQG1FF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9iKSDbGB674CP]. The comments say it's v3, but the back of the BLtouch says v2 smart

Yep - right off of Amazon.

​

Stepper Dampers and TL-Smoothers.

Like this? It is $60+ on Amazon. E3D All-metal v6 HotEnd Full Kit - 1.75mm Universal - Direct, 12v - Approximately 120mm PTFE (ASSEMBLY REQUIRED) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NAK9JFO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SpqQCbDZASXYV

This stuff? Pretty sure it will mess with your temperatures without, not sure how much, and you may be able to tune your PID to compensate.

I want to clarify that when this person is saying "PEI over glass" that this person is saying to put PEI [on top of] borosilicate glass, not in place of glass.

A sheet of PEI with 3M 468MP adhesive tape to borosilicate glass is a game changer. Use simple binder clips to keep it on the bed.

------

Edit: I stand corrected. OP was genuinely saying to use PEI instead of glass. I don't suggest adhering PEI directly to your plate because you're not always going to want to print on PEI depending on your material, and PEI will eventually get bubbles and warp and you'll want to be able to replace it.

Source: Have used PEI for over a year now.

Would you recommend getting the upgraded aluminum extruder parts (like this one)? And could you explain what you mean by "spring tensioners"?

Oh haha sorry.[ Gizmo dorks] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01KGDTPQK/ref=sxts1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483410646&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65)

Ah the one I ordered is out of stock, but gulf coast makes a damn good plate as well.
[Gulfcoast Robotics] 3D Printer Borosilicate Glass for The Creality Ender-3-4mm Thick. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07DFTKCV9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_muJCCb5WVFHTJ

This is where I ordered them: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071WG3SZQ

But they seem to be sold by so many other names that you could order anything on Amazon that shares that product image, if you find it cheaper.

This is what I got after a few test prints I'm trying the skull again. It looks way better.

Check this out at Amazon.com
SIQUK 3 Pcs Teflon Tube PTFE Blue Tubing (1.5M) with 3 Pcs PC4-M6 Fittings and 3 Pcs PC4-M10 Fitting Connector for 3D Printer 1.75mm Filament https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FPJHRTQ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_zrPrDb2ZQ4C9H

Something like this?

The stock CR-10 will print some stock nylons (the "low" temperature ones) if you have it in an enclosure that will maintain a proper ambient temperature so you don't have drafts. It's important to realize that there is a learning curve to printing any filaments that aren't PLA. Depending on which nylon filament you choose (of which there are many, many, many to choose from), you may benefit from an upgraded hotend and maybe an upgrade to your bed heater. At the moment, I have an e3d v6 hotend with a Volcano heater block installed, plus this Keenovo silicone heater for my print bed.

The v6/Volcano is pretty much a necessary upgrade if you're printing nylons that require above 240C. The stock hotend will melt the PTFE tubing that feeds the filament if you use the stock hotend above that temperature. The heater upgrade is half convenience and half necessity. The stock bed heater takes about 40 minutes to get up to temperature for nylon/PC/etc, whereas the Keenovo one only take about 6 minutes. In my case, I'm always time starved so it was worth the upgrade.

Which nylon did you end up ordering?

Wiki is: http://mpselectmini.com/

Some items I bought from Amazon (don't buy the hot end pieces if you have a V2. They changed the hot end to an all metal one):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WE1A3D2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T2DNKJY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LAYCRAA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L4UXQ42/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
V
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MQKW230/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A81FXMK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ACIFPYA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DFTKCV9/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

this is the one I bought. It made a huge difference.

One of the quickest and easiest ways will be to get some stepper motor dampers. This will effectively silence the motors on the printer:

https://www.amazon.com/Upgraded-Vibration-3D-Creality-Printers/dp/B07DNT72SF/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=ender+3+stepper+motor+damper&qid=1562897146&s=gateway&sprefix=ender+3+stepper+moto&sr=8-4

If you've just recently bought your printer, you may check to see if you have the grub screw adjustment on your steppers before you buy them, because some of the newer models don't and you will need this to install the dampers. If you don't have these then there is a work-around but it requires more effort. After you do this the fans will be the loudest part of your printer, so you can look into getting quieter fans or upgrading firmware.

Kapton tape works for ABS @110c, PLA@50-60c, and PETG at 80c. Cooling the bed releases the part mostly.

Edit: Hardest part of Kapton is getting it on to the glass smoothly. Use the Windex and credit card method. I'm sure there are videos out there. Everyone used to use Kapton. Not sure why others have forgotten it.

Get these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07779TP4S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3BvjDb847519E

Setup took maybe 20 minutes or so total. Assembling takes about 10, then about another 10 to get the bed leveled. Assembly is literally just 6 bolts you screw in. The bed leveling is a bit of a pain but not difficult. Directions say to use a piece of paper during leveling, but I found it more accurate to use a feeler gauge instead if you have one handy, if not the paper will work.

I tried the painters tape and had some success but still kept detaching from the base about 1/2 the time. I did not try glue or hairspray. While researching lots of people mentioned the PEI sheet so I figured I'd gamble on it. I have printed 7 or 8 things with it and only had 1 that didn't stick and that was probably my fault because I did not remember to wipe it down with rubbing alcohol. This is the one I got: https://www.amazon.com/Gizmo-Dorks-Printing-Surface-Adhesive/dp/B01KGDTPQK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1484765745&sr=8-2&keywords=pei


My suggestion is try it with the stock surface and/or the painters tape and see what kind of luck you have. If you have issues with sticking, then buy the PEI sheet.

Guessing a silicone heating mat like this

Also, if you're using a standard putty knife on the bed: dont. Them edges be too sharp for the PEI to handle. I use something like this which saved my PEI from certain death a few times.

Yep! I bought these ones

Yeah, I use this one on my extruder: https://www.amazon.com/FYSETC-Printer-Extruder-Makerbot-Creality/dp/B07GDBMT1D/ref=sr_1_1?fst=as%3Aoff&qid=1557351862&refinements=p_89%3AFYSETC&rnid=2528832011&s=industrial&sr=1-1
No issues at all, plug and play.

So far I’ve added
A MK8 aluminum extruder (amazon )
Aokin PTFE tube w/ fittings (amazon )
A printed Fan Cover (thingiverse )
Cable clips (thingiverse )
Tool holders (thingiverse
Z axis motor spacings were the first print too. (thingiverse )

I bought these about a month ago and they're working out well. The only issue is they're slightly longer than the original one so you'll have to get a spacer or lower the bed a bit

Yep, get a silicone sock.

Yep. Just the standard Creality bed.

Official Creality 3D Ender 3 Ender 3 Pro Ender 5 Tempered Glass Upgraded Build Plate Printing Surface for Heated Bed 235x235mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F16WPR5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_35VBDbA6SHFZB

Not OP, but here is the one I got a few weeks ago. Works fine.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JKGNB6W/

Did you just order the E3D HotEnd Full Kit as seen here on amazon or did you order other stuff too?

https://www.amazon.com/E3D-All-metal-HotEnd-Full-Kit/dp/B00NAK9JFO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487899807&sr=8-1&keywords=e3d+v6

I had the exact same problem with mine as well. Swapped out to an all metal extruded with a stronger spring.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B96QMN2

Alright, I think I'm getting the picture. So something like this (closer to /u/ZombieGrot preferences) would work and get hot if the current's too high. I suppose torque isn't particularly relevant because it's just moving plastic in one direction.

Print is looking good, but you should pick up some socks for your hot end.