Welcome to the hobby, friend! Here's a few useful tidbits of info for you.

None of the Gundam kits from the last 20 or so years need glue. That's a standard feature across pretty much every Gundam model kit. So in that regard, feel free to pick any design you like. Not all kits are created equally, but a quick search across this subreddit will help you figure out if the kit you're looking at happens to be hot garbage (and there are a few that are).

To more directly answer your question, the starter set uses an older model of the classic RX-78-02 Gundam. The Revive version is a much, much better model. You can find it here on Amazon.

A panel lining pen (or pens) are not required, but certainly make for a better final product. They're pretty cheap on their own, and generally you'll want at least grey and black, and possibly also brown. Alternatively, you can get a pack of all 3. You'll also want so basic q-tips/cotton swabs to clean up your panel looking.

You're also going to need some nippers. Nippers come in a range of types, qualities, and styles. The best nippers are single sided (that is, one side is a blade and the other is flat). These, the infamous Godhands are hands down the best nippers on the market. They're expensive as shit, but worth every penny. If you're on a medium budget, Tamiya's nippers are the next best option. There are cheaper nippers out there, but they're gonna come with significantly inferior results. That said, a lot of that can be addressed with...

A good hobby knife. You'll be just fine with a simple, cheap X-Acto knife, but there is (in my opinion) a better option. My personal favorite, the Tamiya Design Knife. It's got a slightly smaller blade, which will let you get into tighter spaces with it. It also comes with a metric crapton of replacement blades. You'll want to replace the blade every couple kits, but there's a bunch of them in there. There same container that holds the replacement blades even has a second chamber to dispose of your old blades into.

Finally, you may want some fine pointed (possibly angled) tweezers for decal application. Finger oils can screw up the adhesive on the stickers. You can pass on this starting off most likely, but you'll want to get some eventually.

TL;DR, the starter pack isn't the best option. If you're after the granddaddy Gundam, get the Revive. Otherwise, pick your favorite design. The newer the kit, the better, generally speaking. Look at the copyright date on the box cover to see. Bottom left corner.

You're going to need nippers, which can get pricey, but the cost is worth it. Start with a mediocre pair, and upgrade to the Godhands once you're committed to the hobby. You'll need a knife, too. You can cheap out on this one, but there are better options IMO.

Optionally, get tweezers, panel lining pens, and cotton swabs.

Edit: other good starter kits

HG Barbatos is a great kit. The build process for IBO models is a bit different than other gunpla, though, as they have a quasi-inner frame.

HG 00 Gundam is another great starter. It's also the first kit I ever panel lined, and it was a great starter for that.

If you're wanting a Zaku, the HG The Origin Zaku II Type C is probably the best Zaku kit released to date in 1/144 scale.

Finally, I'd feel bad for not suggesting my all time favorite HG build. It was just a fun, fun kit to make and to pose. The HG 1.5 Gundam. It's got some really cool gimmicks and, unique colors, and an awesome design.

I came here to recommend the Derwent battery-operated eraser, so I guess I'll just second you. :) It erases everything from gel pen to really dark pencils, which makes coloring a lot more relaxing, especially when I'm working with tiny lines.

Eraser in action

So for the past few days, I've been organizing my coloring space. I found a picture that I had really liked from when I first start coloring, but I didn't have any eraser at all of the time and actually coloring the paper Dahlia and dark purple from prismacolor instead of the Sand I meant to pick up. I I did some in Sand as well as Light Aqua b/c I honestly had no clue at all.

I completely forgot to take pictures of it all, but the first picture is from near the end of the first round or erasing, only seconds after I got all I can - these have had fixative sprayed on them since October.

So here are the pics after erasing, I left the forest person, but completely erased from the girl in scrolls - erased pics

Here's the new version.

Edit to add a few things

Derwent's blender and burnisher set works so well. I had gotten the prismacolor because that's what I was advised to get for my newbie starter kit. With the really creamy colors, it worked fine. Buy when I really needed it, like on scratchy colors, it seemed even more scratchy. Also, on grayscale pictures, it looks like uneven skin tone gray scratched on randomly. :/ These are very and have also blended gel pens and pastels. The burnisher is also very good at adding shine.

Not sure how long they'll be there, but they have little crates at Walmart from the back to school sale for $1. They're supposed to fit together like Legos, but there are quite a few that don't fit perfectly. Depending on how many your store has you might be able to find enough that fit perfectly, but someone got mine for me without knowing they fit together and I've just banded them together, so I can move them easily without worry. [pic] (https://imgur.com/gallery/dTLx9)

Also, if you do any loose leaf work, clear paper protectors are a must. I have. Here's a pic. As you can see, you have to remove it to take a picture, but it protects well, fits in a binder, and is only $0.88 for 20 sheets. again, got these from Walmart, and not sure how long I'll be there after back to school is over. However, I have a couple hundred printed out and a couple thousand on my Pinterest, so 6 or 7 packs seemed well worth it.

I also find a fan brush extremely useful - if you blow or use your hand you risk adding moisture and making it stick.

Also, if you use pastels, Yoplait has a new French flavor that has little pots perfect for mixing colors together. For blending pastels, I also like silicone blenders although I haven't tried them on pencil or anything else yet. I also like a beauty blender with a solvent if you know how the paper will react and have quite a few layers.

Also a flashlight is so useful - allows you to make sure you everything looks as good as you think it does.

Also, I would recommend having lots of extra cups for pencils or whatever you're working with. That way you can separate things for organizational purposes, ie clothes, hair, skin, plants, etc.

Here's a few pics my coloring corner, so you can see how I organized things. The middle pic has a close-up of the flashlight (they're super cheap, I have like 3 of them from Harbor Freight, and they have three different kinds of light).

You can also see my eraser, my fan brush, silicone blenders, my mini Derwent pencil sharpener on the right of the desk (got it yesterday so I can't speak to its quality). Also, beside the flashlight is the Yoplait container I mentioned earlier with a chopstick to grind the pastels. I got three more today, and I am usually a huge food snob, but I have to admit, it's delicious and has great containers.

You can also see that the second shelf has my replacement box (erasers, gel pens|, etc), a couple of bottles of workable fixative, a travel pencil case, and my case of pastels. I just moved them into this container because although I can't say no to $6 for 64 colors, Mungyo's was just not sufficient. I got it from Michaels or AC Moore a long time ago in the jewellery department. Here's a close-up

Oh and how could I forget - bookends. I just got 3 cheap ones a few days ago and, is so nice not to have to worry about the imminent slide whenever I take anything out. I use one for my combination shelf of coloring books and pencil cases.

Another I use for the big file box that holds my Ioose coloring pages. Not sure if many people have this but I have a good two hundred and don't want them to get bent/curved, which was starting to happen previously. Here is a pic of the kind of book and I use, and these are the files in the black box beside the crates. Here is an example of the files, which I do my best to keep organized so I can easily find the kind of picturet I'm in the mood for.

Whewww, this forever so hopefully it helps someone.

First off, that's so thoughtful!

I'm no expert by any means. I am very much a beginner with not much to show for it, but I got into watercolor in a roundabout way through calligraphy and hand lettering. Now, despite only putting in some months experience, I have poured hours into finding a nice starter set for myself, so hopefully I can shortcut some of this for you.

I respectfully disagree with the other commenters. As convenient as national chain hobby shops are, they are pricey for that convenience, and I rarely find people who know a lot about one thing versus a little about a lot of things. The only exception I've found to this near me is Jerry's Artarama, but that might be different where you are. If I'm in a pinch and I can't wait the two days for shipping, I will only go into a Michaels or Hobby Lobby if I am armed with one of their 40-50% coupons. Even then, 9 times out of 10 it is more expensive than ordering via Amazon for the materials I am looking for. Additionally, since they can only carry so much inventory, I only find (1) the most basic (cheap in price and quality) items or (2) very famous names.

Watercolors can seem very expensive if you're measuring price per mL, but remember that high quality pigments are meant to be diluted with water, and a little bit goes a very long way. Watercolors are also meant to be mixed! Your SO will want to learn about color theory as she goes (tons of great youtube classes on this too), so that also means to start she doesn't need a massive set. So long as she has most of the primaries she will start coming up with all the colors she needs for her project. Additionally, as she gets more into it, she might find that while she likes her set from X brand, she likes the burnt sienna from Y brand, and the french ultramarine from Z brand. Getting tube colors + an empty watercolor tin will give her a strong base to start painting right away but the flexibility to add her own colors piece by piece as she plans more projects and paintings. Also, when tube paints dry in the tin (you can rewet them/reuse them later), they become portable, giving the same convenience of pan sets.

This was my starter set from [calligraphy] (https://www.amazon.com/Kuretake-Picture-Letter-MC20-36V/dp/B001MPA6W4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511058329&sr=8-1&keywords=kuretake+gansai+tambi+watercolors). I love the pigments, but in retrospect I could've gotten by with WAY LESS colors. In retrospect, I should've gotten something like this with a tin. Remember, the tin doubles as a mixing palette. Daniel Smith is a very popular American brand, but surely not the end all be all. Windsor & Newton, English brand, is also popular, and they have a fairly good "student" grade line called Windsor & Newton Cotman where you can save some money but not skimp out on too much quality.

Watercolor is almost exclusively done on paper. Now, since water and paper generally don't mix, you'll be concerned with the "pounds" of the paper. For everyday practice, many watercolorists are comfortable with 140 lbs spiral bound pads of cold press (meaning it's a bit rough in texture, not smooth). I like spiral bound because you can flip through and work on a few different concurrent projects (for the love of god, make sure they're completely dry first though q.q). These will buckle and warp with very heavy water application. Final projects, or anything meant for professional scanning and printing or super heavy wet work, you will probably be buying 200 lbs+ paper as needed. These can be bought in blocks/pads or as single sheets. As the pounds go up, so does the price.

Brushes! These can also get very pricey, but as with the pigments, there may be some sense in it. Higher end brushes are affixed with either natural or synthetic (or a mix) of hairs that (1) hold more water than cheap brushes and (2) keep the hairs from falling out into your paints or painting. I personally use Windsor and Newton brushes, but I don't have a lot of different types yet, and that seems to be fine to learn on. A round brush goes a long way, as you learn to put down a lot of color or very fine lines depending on how much pressure you put on the paper. As a starter set you might get two round brushes in two sizes like a 4 and a 12.

Finally, while there are lots of artists in Art Fundamentals, I might post this specifically in /r/learnart or /r/watercolor for more insight. Most of us here are working on constructional drawing with pen and paper, not necessarily painting.

Perfect! I would say with 99% confidence you have a fountain pen, not a dip pen (people can do anything, so not 100%). :)

Now, the only thing left to do is help figure out what filling mechanism you have, and what ink you want to start with.

For filling, it is most likely a converter of some sort, although with the end ring, it might be a piston fill using that. I doubt it, but that is a good place to start. On the end opposite the cap, does the part below the gold ring turn freely? That type of piston fill won't unscrew, but will turn freely until it gets to the end of the stroke, then it will turn freely the other way. I also have a parker that the end piece turns to release the section from the body. Again, I doubt that is what this one is, just because most chinese pens like this are not that way, but it doesn't hurt to check.

Most likely, what you need to do is take the cap off, grab the gold portion just below the body, and unscrew the body from the section. Once that is done, if you can take pictures of what it looks like, we can help you on how to fill it. Here are a couple of links to some chinese pens so you can see what I am talking about. In both pictures, the top is the pen fully assembled, the middle is without the cap, and the bottom is it unscrewed. There are two types of converter represented here too. Hong Qiang 621 Hero 257A.

Ask if you have any questions, post pics, go slow. I am sure you can get this figured out.

Now onto ink. The cheapest black you can get for these types of pens is probably Hero student ink. I haven't yet tried it, reviews I have seen have it as a very fast drying ink. I have a bottle on order though, just to see what it is like. The price makes it almost like sample pricing to pick up a bottle Hero Black Ink Amazon . Others have recommended Parker Quink Amazon again, an ink I haven't tried, but gets very good reviews. Noodler's has very good blacks too, I love Heart of Darkness, but if you are not on good paper, it may not work well for you, and it only comes in large bottles, so the cost may be more than you want to get into right now (although price per mL is great on it). If you write on cheaper paper alot, Noodler's X-Feather can be a good ink too, and it is designed not to feather on cheaper paper, and the standard Noodler's black is a good ink.

One big thing, only get an ink that is labeled for fountain pens. A lot of the other advice here (speedball, higgins, etc) assumed a dip pen.

Hope this helps.

EDIT: Noticed I repeated myself on getting ink, cleaned that up.

> Care to tell me the advantages? I'm open to new things, I might change my mind if the pros outweigh the cons.

Sure can! Here's why I use a fountain pen for most of my daily writing:

• Fountain pens require much less pressure with which to write. A few years ago, I started using rollerballs for this very reason. Most ballpoints require you to press down so god damn hard. This strains the hand. Good luck writing for a long period of time with a ballpoint. That shit sucks. I started using fountain pens just a few months ago because I found that they required even less pressure than liquid ink rollerballs and gels.
  
• If you pick the right fountain pen, it's going to be a pleasurable, buttery experience. I'm not kidding. The nib of a fountain pen glides across the paper. Nowadays, I look forward to when I have to write something down. It's not a chore anymore, and for me, it gives me just another slight motivation to do schoolwork (college student). Hey, nothing hurts, right?
  
• A single fountain pen can last you a lifetime, and even more. I find that there's something admirable and even romantic about carrying a single writing instrument that you can refill again and again. You get to know the nuances of the pen; you get attached it the pen. I think that's freaking cool in our current "use and dipose" culture of shitty Bics. Don't get me wrong. I'm not anti-tech or anything. I just find it super cool to always have on me my trusty fountain pen that's been with me through a lot! It's neat. I recently bought a vintage pen from the 1950s. It still works like a charm!
  
• Speaking of refilling, the ink choices of fountain pens are a big plus! There are literally thousands of ink choices of all shades and colors. One of my favorite aspects of writing with certain inks is that it shades! It makes it look so pretty on paper. Check it out: http://wonderpens.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/img_2772.jpg https://colewardell.files.wordpress.com/2010/10/autumn-inks.jpg
  Fountain pens can be refilled through disposable cartridges or through filling mechanisms that take up ink from a bottle (cartridge-converter, piston filler, etc.)
  
• And speaking of shading inks, the nib options for fountain pens are awesome too! EF, F, M, B, BB, etc. And even flex! Flex nibs are nibs that allow you to get some line variation depending on the pressure you apply. http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b325/azavalia/flex1.jpg That's sexy, lol. Oh yeah, and even italic, stub, oblique nibs, and a bunch more.
  
• Fountain pens are usually much manufactured with a much high quality than most other types of pens. It's the niche it fills. It has to be higher quality because it's meant to last hopefully forever. Besides the high quality, they look really cool, with the nib and big barrel and whatnot. Here's one of my favorite pens: http://img-2013.tapatalk.com/d/13/03/31/thumbnail/3e8e7yga.jpg
  
  So yeah, that's why I use fountain pens. My first fountain pen still works perfectly. It was a Lamy Safari EF: http://www.jetpens.com/Lamy-Safari-Fountain-Pen-Extra-Fine-Nib-Charcoal-Black-Body/pd/1937
  
  My first bottle of ink was Noodler's Black: http://www.amazon.com/Noodlers-Black-Waterproof-Fountain-Pen/dp/B000MVZ2E6
  
  And to refill the Safari, I had to buy a converter: http://www.jetpens.com/Lamy-Fountain-Pen-Z-24-Converter/pd/1941
  
  And that's it. After 6 months, I still have the pen (although I've bought a bunch more :D), the converter, and the same bottle of ink is still going strong. I call that a good investment. If only I hadn't gotten addicted and bought a bunch more fountain pens and inks. But, it's a cool hobby that I enjoy. Check out some videos on Youtube and let me know if you want writing samples or anything!
  
  So, tl;dr Fountain pens are cool. Get one.
  
  > I love them. The smaller the better. I like the precision they provide. I usually don't buy anything more than 0.5, as a matter of fact, I didn't even know there was 0.38, I'll definitely look into that.
  
  Along with your Safari that you should definitely get, you could toss on a Mach III and the Pentel Energel that I linked. ;) Orders of $25 from Jetpens have free shipping. :D
  
  > I've been looking for the Pilot Precise since I read this testimonial on LifeHacker but I just can't find it in Canada. I might have to order it online. Never looked for pens in Walmart though, I'll definitely have to give that a shot.
  
  Yeah, if you enjoy needlepoint pens, you should definitely start off with the Pilot Precise V5. That was my first good pen that started my pen addiction 4 years ago.
  
  Wow, I'm too obsessed with pens, lol.
  
  

Speakers will make your life so much better. I'd recommend getting a shower speaker too, your flatmates will love you.

A door stop is the right answer.

If you get a memory foam mattress topper your life will be so much better. It makes any bed amazing, and, although they aren't particularly cheap, they can last a very long time. I have this one

Get some good quality pens and books of paper. You don't want the refil pads as they always fall apart sooner or later, get some which have metal binding on one side. For pens I always got a box of these or these. They make the vast amounts of notes you need to take much better.

Don't buy the recommended reading until you have checked how many copies the library has. There's a good chance you'll be able to read them enough without paying for them, or search Bookname.pdf into google and it will probably be there.

Pint glasses are very useful things to have, but I found it added a nice touch to my flat if they were all borrowed from pubs.

get a multipack of playing cards on the cheap from amazon. You'll probably get through a fair few packs in first year. Some poker chips were a nice thing to own as well. In 3rd year I got Cards Against humanity as well, and it is a very good game for predrinks

Get minimum 1 good frying pan, 1 good saucepan, a good wooden chopping board, a good chefs knife, a baking sheet, and a colander.

Get a bottle opener like this one and you will have hours of fun pinging the caps at people

I didn't use mine much in 1st year, but all the other years of uni my bike was a great thing to have. It allows you to shop further away (so cheaper) and reduces your reliance on public transport. It also means you can get out of your area of the city occasionally, which is nice.

A french press means you can make a whole pot of great coffee for your flatmates when you are all getting up after a heavy night, at which point they might crown you or start worshiping you or some shit

> Last year my mom passed down a Lamy Safari that was completely destroyed and after trying and failing to get it to work, I resigned myself to my good ol' cheap gel pens. But this post pretty much re-ignited my interest. Right now my Amazon cart has a universal cartridge, a Jinhao x750 in black night sky, zebra g nibs, and Diamine ink. So thanks for that :p

Speaking as someone who's recently done the same thing with calligraphy, I'm happy to help you do so. Except for the hit to your pocketbook, of course. ;-) I've heard decent things about Jinhao. Apparently they are very good for their price, but being a "cheap chinese knockoff", are more susceptible to defective units. Make sure you order from a reputable seller who will allow you to return it if it fails, but hopefully it won't. A nice thing about some Jinhao pens is that the nibs are replaceable with many #6 nibs, so you have some options there.

> I decided to go for the diamine because it was cheap and only 30ml, so if this is something that I actually really like (I print pretty small, my 0.4mm gel pens have become my holy grail, so I can be pretty picky about this stuff) I'll spring for the Iroshizuku and Noodler inks I've fallen in love with.

I've heard excellent things about Diamine ink. I ordered some Diamine Oxblood because I wanted something that looked like dried blood, and Diamine Majestic Blue because OH MY GOD look at those colors. Yes, that's just one ink being used: it goes from blue to red as you apply more ink. That's some magic ink, there. (This is called "sheening".) I'll be ordering some Noodler's Black Swan in Australian Roses (again with the glorious names!), J. Herbin Emerald of Chivor 1670 Anniversary Ink and Rohrer & Klingner Alt-Goldgrun (Old Golden Green) because they perform similarly. The Noodler's ink is definitely the most cost-effective, but you can order a sample kit of sheening inks from Goulet if you aren't sure which you want.

> I've also been lusting over water brush pens... anything you can tell me about those?

I'm afraid I don't know much about the brush pens as yet. I've used some micron brush pens before, but never one supporting fountain pen inks. That said, I plan to get back into it. There is an artist named Kevin Eslinger that does some utterly amazing work with Dr. Ph. Martin's Bombay India Ink. He basically paints like you would with watercolor paint, and then blows on the fresh ink through a straw, making those cool blown/dripped patterns you see. I bought some of the ink and some traditional brushes, but I'm also looking into some brush fountain pens as well. Noodler's and Platinum both have some that I've been eyeing.

$100 will get you pretty far! obligatory ymmv, a lot of supplies depend on what and how you paint (do you paint large or small? do you paint outside a lot and need a travel kit? and so on), etc, etc, but here is how i would spend the money:

• paints
  
  kuretake gansai tanbi, 36 color set - the best set of watercolors i have used and relatively cheap, the colors are vibrant, mix well, and set beautifully.
  
  
  
• paper
  
  probably where most of the money should go after upgrading your paints. i like the strathmore 500 series and the canson papers for sketching and learning. other higher end brands that are recommended a lot are arches, bee paper, and fluid 100. definitely try out both hot press and cold press, people usually develop a preference but one is not necessarily better than the other.
  
  
• brushes
  
  honestly, brushes are not that important as long as they are not frayed or shedding. i've seen tons of professionals use and recommend this cheap set by grace art. i also like the princeton neptune brushes.
  
  
• extras
  
  if you still have money left, i would suggest trying something cool like metallic and pearlescent paints if it interests you. or use the money towards other mediums if you want to branch out.

Bialetti - stove top espresso maker - you'll never need to buy an expensive coffee maker ever again.

Leuchterm 1917 journal for my bullet journal

6in Ruler to go with my journal - fits in the back pocket perfectly

Huhuhero Color Pen Set also to go with my journal -- has every color you'll need and has a really nice thickness. I use a finer tipped Staedtler for writing but these pens are perfect for titles and decorating and under $6 can't be beat

Customizable dog tag

Ahava Dead Sea Bath Salts - for a luxurious bath that won't dry you out

Ramekins for all of your baking needs. It's also fantastic to use for cooking (holding onto spices, separating eggs, etc.) and for serving dips.

Dog Toy Basket - adorable, holds a ton of toys, and looks really chic in my apartment.

Salt and Pepper Mill Grinders - pretty and functional

Bath Overflow Cover - get your water higher for a more satisfying bath

Bath Spa Pillow

Grippy Stand - the BEST stand for any size tablet.. I have two of them they're so good

Hotel Spa Cotton Towel 4 Pack - smallish bath towel with so many uses. I leave then by the front door to wipe the pup's paws.

Popin Cookin 9 Pack - the MOST FUN you'll ever have 9 times over

Tons and tons and tons of books - look under the "available for less money" links for "used" paperback versions that will make them super affordable and they usually come nearly brand new!

You have three options for panel line;

1. Gundam Marker. Basically a fine point pen. The result is always a thick line, but can be easily clean up with just plain q-tip (or dip in a bit of rubbing alcohol for even easier cleanse). Great for filling in black/dark details. You can also use other fine point pens as a substitute.
   
   
2. Gundam Marker, pour type. Different mixture of ink. Dab on to panel lines and ink will just run along the line. Much easier to use than regular fine point. Much easier to use with 1/144 models which have smaller lines. Cleanup with rubbing alcohol or enamel thinner (or even your finger if you are lazy). This can eats up paint layer if you paint your model and don't gloss coat before apply the marker.
   
   
3. Tamiya's Panel Line Accent. Best of all IMO. One bottle last months...of years! Works very similar to the pour type, but better. Clean up with enamel thinner.
   
   -----------
   
   Some people use pencil, but I don't find that method to be efficient. You can also mix your own paint but why bother when there is already a pre-mixed solutions.

Everyone else's advice is great, but once you're ready to move in to pens, I suggest a liner pen set like https://www.amazon.com/Staedtler-Pigment-Sketch-Regular-308SB6P/dp/B004L87XRA < this, if you can get it (~$11 USD; online and in art stores. Sakura's Pigma Micron pens are also good but a little less sturdy and pigmented in my experience). They're of different widths so you can explore line width (this piece looks to me like one width though), and they come in a sturdy case. Like all pens, be gentle on the tips, and they'll last a long time.

And besides lessons online, try thinking of your own drawing challenges. Once you learn how to put shapes together and show what you see on paper, it's a lot more fun to draw things you want to draw.

Best of luck and keep posting your progress!

Ohohoh, Get these tinted charcoal pencils! Derwent are my absolute favourite brand of drawing supplies and I think they're wonderful quality and just... perfect.

I have a few of the charcoal pencils and they're beautiful to work with. It's not the best picture, but this is something I drew with them. The colour is a lot more subtle, but I loved having charcoals other than black to work with. And it's nice when you don't want everything as bright as you get with pastels.

They also last a long time and a lot less messy then conventional charcoals! This made me happy as it left my fingers clean for blending. It's so much nicer then accidently smudging when you have your hands covered in black or whatever and it gets where you don't want it!

And finally, you don't like getting things for you, but this is something you can use to make other people happy. Make your Grandpa a thank you card using them (once you use some adhesive spray/hairspray), make birthday, easter and christmas cards for your girls. If they're anything like me, they'll hold on to them and treasure them. I have all the cards my mum had made me in a box under my bed.

Rubbing alcohol - I have no idea! I think it does break down the colours but USE IT GENTLY because you can bleed right through paper if you're not careful. My mom showed me how to do this when I was young and just learning how to use Prismacolours.

Generally when needing to fill something with solid colours I'll use a circular motion for even coverage rather than line-shaped strokes, but yeah, that's basically the idea.

Currently the lighting on the picture is kind of undefined - you have shadows underneath things, but light plays in strange ways and reflected / refracted light also does weird stuff. This tutorial kinda explains things better than I can: http://theartcenter.blogspot.se/2010/03/sam-nielson-painting-process.html - Basically, you want to think about where your primary light source is, how the material you're colouring will interact with that light, and then the shape of what you're colouring. Rimlight is the white around the edges of say, Lugia's wings.

I will recommend these watercolour sets because I LOVE them: http://www.amazon.com/Pelikan-Color-Opaque-Watercolor-Set/dp/B00170ZSLS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462365768&sr=8-1&keywords=pelikan+watercolours Used them for years. They're student grade but I love how they work. Make sure you're using sturdy paper!

I am using these watercolours currently: http://www.amazon.com/color-Kuretake-picture-letter-Unleashed/dp/B001MPA6W4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462365862&sr=8-1&keywords=japanese+watercolours They're flipping fantastic, if not a bit more expensive.

LMK if you have more questions / need more clarification. :D

watercolors LINK

we starting to use it in art schools and continue to use them in art academy. they really are good. no need to dig deeper in more expensive, pro watercolors.

fancy watercolors (i personally love them, but really, basically fo fun, mixed media) LINK

watercolor pad LINK

that's my choice. would highly recommend this producer, really great absorption, thick paper, different formats available. anyway, it's really good.

brushes is really very personal choice, depends on technic and such. I like this one LINK great for miniature work. You can look for some squirrel hair brushes in local store orLINK , they are good for starters and for wet painting.

EDIT. fanart sample where all those stuff used at once :P

I'll add to this as I find things!


For both of them:

I'm aiming for both of them in these because summer is coming! You mentioned not really having a yard so these could be "park only" toys. Stuff to get them outside and keep them active during summer break!



WOWmazing Kit (3-Piece Set) | Incl. Big Bubble Wand, Giant Bubble Concentrate and Tips & Trick Booklet | Outdoor Toy for Kids, Boys, Girls | Bubbles Made in the USA



[Huge Rainbow Kite For Kids - One Of The Best Selling Toys For Outdoor Games Activities - Good Plan For Memorable Summer Fun - This Magic Kit Comes w/ 100% Satisfaction] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012D3PN7G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api) - there are SOOO many shapes and things to choose from on Amazon when it comes to kites!




These are for both of them as well since they both enjoy art ❤️



I recently did one of these Diamond art things, it's time consuming and relaxing! There are quite a few other designs to choose from as well!



I was gifted these and they are amazing! If a mistake is made it's super easy to fix it because these are so flexable!




And this or something similar because Rylee enjoys singing

What kind of pencils do you use? It may just be the picture, but it looks like your shading kind of blends into a medium gray in a lot of places, when high contrast (light grays and really dark blacks) might be more effective.

I would suggest buying a set of Prismacolor Turquoise pencils or similar ones that have "softer" shades like 9B, 8B or 7B. Then use those soft pencils to increase the darkness of places like the eyes and mouth here. If you haven't already, familiarize yourself with how to use hard and soft pencils. It might also help to take an eraser to some of the shading when you're done to make really bright highlights. This can really make shading easier and prettier, resulting in a drawing with higher contrast. :)

I think they're a great starter kit. You get a wide variety of colors. The problem with them is that there are mixed opacities -- sometimes two colors right next to each other on the color wheel might be different. One green could be opaque, one could be transparent.

I used them exclusively as my travel palette until I started to build out my collection of professional colors.

My absolutely favorite "set" is the Kuretake Gansai Tambi set ($29 on Amazon). Keep in mind, these are Japanese style, so they will be richer in color, but I absolutely love how brilliant everything is. This was definitely my workhorse at home while I was building out my professionals... but truth be told, sometimes I still go back to these because I love them so much.

​

EDIT: Adding some links to works myself and my sister-in-law have done with them, so you can see the richness.

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For fineliners, I would highly recommend Faber-Castell Pitt Artist Pens, in the thinnest tip size. But if you're going to get these, I HIGHLY recommend buying the pack with all 4 tip sizes and picking the one you like best, since a lot of people have different preferences. All the sizes will come in handy at some point for bullet journalling. They're about $10 on Amazon for the 4 pack.

If you're a student and you're planning on using your bujo to write down HW and/or you also wanna be a bit more cost efficient, I recommend gel pens. It gets really annoying to have to switch between a fineliner for writing HW and stuff in my journal and using a pen to take notes or do something for class (which is why I use a fineliner in the summer and a gel pen during the school year LOL). I recommend the Pentel Energel Gel Pen, in the 0.3 mm size. They dry super quick, so they're great to use for highlighting or if you're a leftie. And they look just as nice as a fineliner on your standard journal paper. Also great for taking notes in school because of the quick drying time. To save money, what I do is use an existing pen body I have (I have a zebra sarasa pen body) and just replace the existing ink with Pentel Energel refills. A pack of 12 refills is $11 on Amazon. I bought the refill pack a year and a half ago and still have 5 refills left. Or if you want the actual pen itself, it's $7 for a pack of 3.

Hope this helped!

The paper makes the experience and for the time being this will treat you nicely. You can get a 5 pack for three dollars at most Target.

If you can justify the price Rhodia and Clairefontaine makes excellent paper.

Ink:This is a well behaved ink that will work great on any paper.

Waterman is a nice ink sold on Amazon, I have inspired blue and it's excellent and a lot of fun.

The folks here will suggest all different kinds of ink, enjoy your new pen and try not to get addicted like me!

I appreciate your comment, truly. I can somewhat relate to you, as I was very much into art back in High School, but quickly gave up on it due to anxiety and low self-esteem. There was a good ten-year hiatus before I began to pick the pencil up again this earlier this year.

I suggest starting small. I challenged myself to draw all 151 of the first generation of Pokemon on post-it notes. You can see some of them in my submission history if you're curious. It sounds silly, but that's what I had available to me at work, and I could usually spit one out after working on them on breaks and lunches. I tried to do one a day. The more I worked on them, the more I began to get my confidence back. Once they were done, I had an immense sense of fulfillment and accomplishment.

You don't have to do something that intense, but I found that setting smaller goals first, and seeing them through, was what helped, even if I wasn't pleased with some of the small things. It was only after these that I had the courage to try something bigger and more complex, like the helmets I've done.

Practically speaking, get yourself a few tools of the trade. I use a mix of .7 and .3 mechanical pencils, with HB graphite for the former and B lead for the latter. I also use eraser pencils to get fine erase lines for detail, and smudging sticks to blend.

Sorry. I know this was probably more word vomit than you may have expected or wanted. Your comment just struck a similar chord to my own experience. That said, just start small, and realize that all of the tiny mistakes you see in your work are mistakes that, for the most part, only you can see. Everyone else will just see a work of art, and enjoy it for what it is. Trust me. That was my largest hurdle. You can do it too.

Good luck. :)

Buy the cheapest, thickest sketchbook you can, (in the UK, I'd hit up The Works)and some pens, ballpoint maybe, preferably fineliners, like these bad boys, then fill it up.


There are tons of resources available.

Some tips I have picked up:

Start with perspective, simple one-point perspective and a bunch of boxes ( try this place ), and just fill sketchbooks up.

Split your drawing time into practice and personal, still draw stuff you love, but make time to just practice. Noone else will see the results, it's just for you to learn how things look.

Use reference, not tracing if you can avoid it, as much as you can. Learn what things actually look like, how bits of the body fit together and work. Draw what you see, not how you think things look.

Try and find others who are learning too and learn together, even just posting stuff online for advice.

*From the last one, try and see advice as positive, noone is perfect and (other then the occasional twat), use what they have said to get better :)


Sorry for the wall of random stuff, I'm still early in my journey too and these are the tips I keep hearing again and again. Good luck!! Can't wait to see what you come up with in the future.

Gotcha, in that case, here's a few well worth adding to any collection if it's not too late:

Bic Soft Feel Medium Easy to control when pushing softly, reliable ink flow. Great for light lines and construction. The tip does displace by about a mm when you press hard, so it makes dark lines more difficult to reliably create.


Zebra Z-Grip Max Harder to control for lighter lines as the ink flows a little too well. The tip has no displacement though, which means darker lines are much easier to create reliably compared to the bic.


Zebra Z-Grip Flight aka Z-Grip Smooth in the UK. Similar to the Max, no nib displacement, but the ink flows so freely, this is not something to be used for light construction. Very smooth if you like that sort of thing.

The cheap crystal and disposable ballpoints you find all around are OK, but the ink flow is unreliable. On rough paper, they generally have stable nibs and can produce almost pencil-like lines, but they stop and start working so often, it can be annoying.


Non-Ballpoint honorable mentions:

Pilot Hi-Tec C 0.3 - Free flowing hybrid pen. No variation in line-weight, and no going back. Unforgiving but fun when you're searching for ideas and not caring about the final quality.


Pilot G-Tec C4 0.4 - As above, but the 0.1mm difference is significant. Usually used to add line weight to sketches done in the 0.3.


Staedler Pigment Liners - Unfortunately mistaken to be 'markers' because people keep calling them that. Smooth and reliable ink flow with the hard nib. Much thicker and less scratchy than the Hi-Tecs, and far less forgiving. Worth getting a whole set as preferences will vary and the size difference between each is significant. Restrictive as they don't work well at shallow angles, but on the plus side, you can marker over them.

Most importantly, if you're going to be drawing using ballpoints, make sure to accompany it with toothy/rough paper. The paper is 80% of it imo. Smooth stuff just doesn't cut it with ballpoints if you want a consistently high level of control over line weights.

There are lots more of course, but these are my experiences so far.

Good luck!

As a fellow rookie Tau collector/painter I have to say these look pretty cool but I noticed some of the finer panel lines are a little uneven so I wanted to make a suggestion that saved me alot of time and headaches.

You can buy black pigment liners with a 0.05mm tip that will fit right into those panel lines to let you quickly black them out, giving a nice and crisp edge to the armor panels and other fine details.

The one linked is just one I had from my other hobbies but you can get pigment liners from most craft shop with various colors and tip sizes. The .05 or .03 mm ones are the best, anything larger and you're not gonna fit it in the gaps.

edit: grammar, also sorry I can't post a pic of the results, I'm at work on a slow Sunday :)

I have only owned this brush pen, my painting teacher recommended it, so /u/urban_sketcher may know more than me about this.



I would say that the pen acts like the nicest fine tipped paintbrush I have ever owned, and it feels almost like watercolor painting without having to reload the brush. The brush itself is fairly substantial and can make decently thick lines but it can also make very fine lines if you have the control for it. These are some pictures I took back when I first got the pen and was experimenting to see what sort of things I could do with it and how I could layer ink, it's on a pad of fairly textured prestretched watercolor paper. I don't think it shows everything the pen can do but it is an ok example, my camera is broken or I would show a better one. I don't know how it compares to other brush pens but I really enjoy it for sketching because of the line variation and expressiveness as well as its ability to cover larger areas easily like washing an area with watercolor.

Thank you kindly!! I use a kuretake sable brush pen: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001DMQIOG

I personally like the feel of using the sable hair brush vs other brush pens which I think use plastic or some other kind of synthesized hair?

My pen also has an adapter in it(purchased separately) so it lets me re fill and use any ink of choice, so far I like using this ink: https://www.amazon.com/Luxury-Brands-Noodlers-Bottle-19203/dp/B000WIUKIW

The white ink was drawn with this pen, so far it's been the most reliable white-on-black pen I've used(goes on with a clean smooth line with zero or little transparency or leaving a ball point pen line: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00KK6X7CW

And then coloured with copic markers! 😄
Thank you again for your kind comment I really appreciate it!! 💕

I use these: http://www.amazon.com/GSI-Creos-Black-Gundam-Marker/dp/B00HY8JI7C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1411874898&sr=8-1&keywords=gundam+fine+tip

I use a black for parts that are molded in a dark color, and a grey for things that are much lighter. They're really easy to use, and you don't have to be precise with them. Keep some q-tips and a bit of rubbing alcohol handy, though. Just set the ink into the panel line in as many passes as you fee is needed. Let it dry for just a little bit, then gently flick over the line using the q-tip. Don't even push down that hard, just gently stroke over the area. This will help spread ink away from the line, if not pick it up entirely. Any excess can be rubbed off using another q-tip with a very modest amount of rubbing alcohol on it. It'll come right up and leave your lines filled.

There's a lot of tutorials on youtube, and various methods (I've heard a lot that panel washing works best, but haven't tried it), but that's how I do mine and I'm pleased with the results.

I would suggest buying a really cheap HG kit that you can screw around on, test a bunch of different techniques and see what works best for you. That way if you totally screw up you won't be out of a lot of money.

edit: Also, there's alternatives to these pens. I used some sakura microns I had laying around on my first HG and it looked good, but buying a set of those is going to be more expensive in the long run than getting gundam pens. I've seen some individual very fine point pens at Michaels for about a buck or two, but I've not yet tried them. They seem like they can get the job done, though.

Huhuhero fineliners! I got a full color set for hella cheap on Amazon. They say 0.38mm but reviews say they're a lil bigger. They work great!

Huhuhero Fineliner Color Pen Set, 0.38 mm Fine Line Drawing Pen, Porous Fine Point Markers Perfect for Coloring Book and Bullet Journal Art Projects

I like Pentel Energel but the colors are limited. Great pens though

haha I know it's a sickness. I was always into this sort of thing but managed to push it out of my mind. Now the bujo community has dragged me back in!!! And with all the media you see so many things recommended that you want to try! If you live in the US go to Michael's or Target and you'll be set. Oooh there is a sweet lettering set by Tombow I saw on Amazon! One set (I'm obviously insane).
This looks like a great gift and has a little bit of everything in it!!!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LWTU634/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

https://www.instagram.com/p/BQPz3MpAPnp/

You know what, that's actually a good map! It's pretty clear and represents a good start.

/r/mapmaking is a good place to look around, and there's even helpful threads popping up all the time. If you decide to get more serious about making maps, I'd recommend a Wacom tablet for drawing on a computer. You can use free tools like GIMP or Krita. Of course you can use a mouse with these, but pen & tablet is easier.

If sticking to regular paper, get something like these. Good pens of different thicknesses. If you can express terrain using only "textures" in black & white (here is an example I found on /r/mapmaking), you can really make it pop once you start adding color!

Biggest tip is to just keep at it. And don't be afraid to re-do things over and over to try out different styles.

Does she use just one pen thickness? She might like something like this which has different thicknesses for more detailed drawings.

You said she had graded pencils, maybe she would like graded pens too? (I haven't used these yet, so not sure on the quality)

Has she ever used a brush pen? I found them very interesting and you can create unique drawings with them.

If you prefer to get her some paper, look for something with at least 100gsm (this is the thickness of paper) I find 80gsm too thin for ink drawings.

Maybe also having a look for books on things she might like, like books on historic maps or tattoo designs. Reference books are brilliant for inspiration.

Take your time to clean nub marks, it really does make a massive difference at the end, and is totally worth the time it takes.

as for other stuff that really makes a difference, get a panel line marker, they are dirt cheap and make so much difference to a kit.

the final thing is to get some matte clear coat, this gets rid of the "plastic" look to a kit, you will need to get a specialist one for plastic tho, so it get a little more expensive, a can like the one linked would last for 6-7 hg kits easily. if you have a games workshop near you as well, they also sell clear coat, though i would only reccomend this if you cant get mr. super clear or tamita stuff shipped to you, as its more expensive in my experience.

Good luck building your kit and welcome to the hobby!

Yeah, I'm kind of sold on the Derwent Inktense. What do you think would be better? The blocks or the pencils? I think the pencils are more comfortable and easy to use, though the blocks seem nice too.

Edit: Sooo I found this tin box of 72 on sale in my country and it's like 65 Euro ($70). It's a really good deal right? I think I'm gonna buy these. http://www.amazon.com/Derwent-Inktense-Pencils-Metal-2301843/dp/B001XCWP34

Edit 2: Hmmm, so I read this review and I'm changing my mind a bit. http://hubpages.com/art/Watercolor-Pencils-Reviews#

I see that Faber Castell and Koh-I-Noor are something I'd probably like more. I won't be using the watercolour only with water and I want a nice pigment even when I use the dry pencil. I think I'll be getting a smaller box of Derwent Inktense stricly for waterbrushing and other types for both waterbrush and dry use.

Notebooks by themselves can be archived depending on the type of media you are writing on. Welcome to the snobbery that is writing implements and media! I personally use Sakura-brand Pigma Micron 05 pens and acid free journal paper, to prolong the lifespan of any writing. Anything pH neutral in a pen is fine. Paper can get crazy expensive and usually its the ink that fades before the paper totally yellows out. A six pack of sakura pens usually last me the better part of the year - 6 pack

​

It is just the way my brain works, but I'd keep the topics in categories (I was also imagining how you could better use the content for your future podcasts/interviews). You can also create subcategories for date of a particular topic. That way, you can also add in even more meta ways of recalling the subject: red binders for ETH1.X to ETH2.0 transitions for example. Or green for "MSM" coverage of crypto, etc. It might be harder for someone else to use your work later, but the categorical method is a fun way to store stuff.

​

And one thing to leverage is google alerts if you are not already. Any topic that you create, make a google alert for as well. Worst case, it'll pick up some of the topics and best case, you'll get even more information to store.

I recommend either the thin panel lining markers in grey, black, and brown or a set of real touch markers that has those three colors

I panel lined with a set of panel lining markers for quite a while and only recently tried using real touch markers for panel lines and while the panel lining markers work pretty good I think I prefer real touch markers

The real touch markers are initially messier to apply but I think they clean up nicer just using like a qtip and make for some nice sharp looking lines

Probably not as good as a panel wash but I like them so far

Edit: here is a black panel lining marker https://www.amazon.com/GSI-Creos-Black-Gundam-Marker/dp/B00HY8JI7C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473087011&sr=8-1&keywords=Panel+lining+markers+gundam

I think you should get yourself these so that you can take some time for yourself and do some drawing. You can take a break from being a wonderful parent and do something fun and creative just for you! I hope you have a wonderful birthday! :)

For drawings like these, you should vary the thickness of your lines more. Using different values for your lines will help your drawings pop. My friend, who is an accomplished artist, does a lot of drawings like these, here is a link to a gallery of some of his drawings that are similar to yours. Jack Graves III . Be sure to click the thumbnails for a full size view.

You should seriously consider getting a pack of art pens. They will help you immensely with this, and they are worth the less than $20 investment. Here are three to browse on Amazon. Prismacolor, Faber-Castell, and Sakura Micron Pens.

For pencils, my favorite is probably my Mars Technico, combined with the tub sharpener. The leads come from 4h-4b, so its a decent range. At 2mm it seems large, but the tub sharpener will put a needle ass point on that badboy. The leads last a pretty long time too.

Other than that, any set of pencils with a range of hardness would be cool, personally i prefer Prismacolor and Staedtler Mars Lumiograph. The technico costed about 16-17$ with the pencil, 3 leads and the sharpener, which i got an office depot.

For pens, I LOVE the Copic Multiliner SP. Pretty spendy, but the ink is refillable and the nibs are replaceable. Doesn't smudge when dry, and I've water colored over it fine even. A more affordable option would be Prismacolor Premier Pens, after about 5 seconds it won't smudge.

This is pretty good. In fact it better then i can do and i have some formal training.

2 quick tips

1. get yourself some good pencils I like these http://amzn.com/B0038D8JQ8
   
2. bigger is easier! get big paper (18x24 inches) and use as much of the page as you can. I found that this helped me focus on what the overall shape was and not each individual line
   
   Keep Practicing :)

Gives more of a natural look on light colored armor plates, black gives more of a classic cartoon look. Brown is used for warm colors and sometimes zeon/zaft/etc suits. You are looking for something called a "fine tip gundam marker", You can get them online. There is also something called "panel line accent" which is applied with a brush and some people feel gives a more natural look, I would reccomend starting with the marker, as its easier to learn with. Keep a qtip around when using it incase your hand slips. any residue clears up with a bit of rubbing alchohol, dont use nail polish remover, it can melt plastic.

https://www.amazon.com/GSI-Creos-Black-Gundam-Marker/dp/B00HY8JI7C/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=gundam+marker&qid=1566105777&s=toys-and-games&sr=1-8

If you are going for 30 dollar tamiyas just drop the extra 5 dollars and get these, they come with free shipping on your whole order and tax free. https://www.gundamplanet.com/gundam-planet-premium-side-cutter.html

They also carry sanding sticks
https://www.gundamplanet.com/supplies.html?cat=30%2C31%2C29

Honestly, most of my journals only have 5-10 sentences per page. I do a lot of collage, drawing, and abstract painting.

Here's what I suggest:

Buy some cheap liquid watercolors and some [sponges] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VF2KEAI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). You can do backgrounds on every page before you start. This helped me build the habit of nightly journaling, and removed the fear of "ruining" a page. Any parts that I didn't like I could collage over!

Start using your own photos as much as possible. One of the easiest ways to do an image transfer is to alter an image on the computer, then print it out on an ink jet printer. I use cheap-ass photo paper for this, while the photo is fresh. Spray it with water, then put face-down and rub it into the page. (A rubber brayer is nice, but a used gift card or other hard object would be fine.)

Did you know that you can buy bulk stickers from [Amazon???] (https://www.amazon.com/DreamerGO-Graffiti-Transparent-Motorcycle-Skateboard/dp/B01M9FHC08/ref=pd_sim_21_11?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01M9FHC08&pd_rd_r=YGCTQJHQC1ZBD807ASAQ&pd_rd_w=ESCUg&pd_rd_wg=E85wC&psc=1&refRID=YGCTQJHQC1ZBD807ASAQ)

I also suggest making a to-go bag. If you make your backgrounds at the beginning of the week, or before you start the journal, this makes it extra easy. Mine has:

1. [paint markers] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001VB4T86/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
   
2. a few of [these] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0038FIA42/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and [these] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004L87XRA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
   
3. Ephemera (usually from my obnoxious amount of magazine subscriptions, my own drawings, and things I find)
   
4. Glue sticks. Lots of folks here are interested in archival quality glue, but I just use Elmer's.
   
   I often use my journal to annotate from books (I used to do it INSIDE the books, but I found them difficult to read with any new clarity that way, and I'm trying to move to digital.) Since I mostly read self-help/improvement books, that made some great starting points for prompts.

• Riddle the First
  
  Wine -- flask for sneaking butterbeer into class so I can win the Defense Against the Dark Arts duels. >_>
  
  
• Riddle the Second
  
  A broom -- organizer so I can keep all my brooms tidily stored and make points with /u/dragonflyjen, the Flying Instructor. =D
  
  
• Riddle the Third
  
  A hat -- for the Tin Man, because I want him as my lab partner in Potions, to use his parts, err brain, for the exams, because /u/rarelyserious, the Potions Master values ingenuity like that. <_<
  
  
• Riddle the Fourth
  
  A book -- the start of one, anyway, being a children's book I have in mind, for the History of Magic project /u/Morthy will assign.
  
  
• Riddle the Fifth
  
  A trunk -- a teeny-tiny one that allows me to hide myself in music and charm the Magical Creatures in /u/Stefanienee's class.
  
  
• For Bonus Points
  
  A cape -- on a pint glass, because it can be used to insulate warm beverages for the night Astronomy classes taught by /u/tandem7!
  
  Mischief Managed! =D

Welcome to RAoA! It's so much fun here btw :)

1. TV Show: Dead Like Me
   
   This show is simply put: far underrated. It was witty, clever, funny, sad, and frankly near perfect.
   
   
   
2. Bathtub crayons for adult like finances and to-do lists in the shower....
   
   PS: Did you watch new Doctor Who episode on Sunday?! OMG!!!!

Oh wow, maybe that's just pour-type then. I assumed it was more like the pen-type but with a little more flow but it looks like those are something completely different. I don't really know anything about those so I can't really make any statements on it.

http://www.amazon.com/GSI-Creos-Black-Gundam-Marker/dp/B00HY8JI7C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422038818&sr=8-1&keywords=gundam+panel+line+marker

That's the kind of marker I recommend because it's fairly cheap and can be used on at least two kits assuming you take care of it well enough.

I've always panel lined with these kinds of markers over the Tamiya paints that I spray on, and I've never really had much of an issue. The glossiness of the spray seems to effect how easily it'll go on and how quickly you can erase it off, but for the most part I haven't had any problems with it.

Quink is good, but I'm a big Noodler's Ink fan. You will find many of them here.

Noodler's basic black is, IMHO, better than Quink - it dries quickly, doesn't penetrate through the paper or feather (much), is waterproof and bleachproof, and is very, very black. Their "bulletproof black" is fraudproof too -- it contains individually tailored formulations to identify the writing later -- but dries more slowly. Both cost about $10 for a jar that will last you nearly forever.

They have a range of amazing colors and some inks that do things that will blow your mind. It's worth browsing through the selection.

How about a nice pen? Have you ever used a fountain pen?

This pen is great. I have one with a silver trim. I've had many a fountain pen, and this is still my favorite, even more so than pens that cost me twice as much. Feels good, looks good, made very well, writes well. Just don't drop it. It will break. That's the only downside for me. However, I've broken mine 3 times, and epoxied it back together and polished it up each time.

When you start using a FP, paper becomes important too. Cheap paper and some fancy notebook brands (i.e moleskine) are horrible for fountain pens. Ink will bleed and spider on the page. I'd suggest looking at this brand of paper. They're cheap(er than moleskine), look good, and take fountain pen ink super well.

You'll need some ink too. I'd suggest starting with something from Noodler's ink lke this. Some FP inks are waterproof, some are not. Bulletproof, iron gall, or pigmented inks are usually water proof.

I know that probably puts you closer to $100, but imo, it's worth it if that's something that interests you.

Just to give another option besides the Tombows, I use a combination of the Huhuhue Double Ended and the Huhuhue Fine Tips.

With a decent notebook (ie. not a composition book) I get minimal bleeding and the pens are super affordable.

I don't know if you have a case for pens, but I recently bought this one and I'm super happy with it.

From my own experience with Gundam markers, they usually dry in a few minutes, but I only use them for small detail painting. They do not need primer, but a topcoat will help protect them as they can get scratched fairly easily. The Basic and Metallic sets are both very useful, along with the three panel lining markers.

A decent sketch pad is just better than any notebook or printer paper you probably have lying around.
My favorite pens are these
This particular pack of 4 has different tip sizes. I can use all 4 of them on one good piece. Not use them up, just use each one of them.

If you want to up your game, you can use any kind of graphite pencil (even a regular #2) and some tortillons for shading. It took me a while to brave shading but it was a game changer when I took the leap.

I just pinterest for "Zentangle Patterns" and stick them all on a board and go for it. You'll build off of them and use borders. Where you find empty space, you can just search your board for something that compliments or contrasts and fits your space.

I'm real proud of the ones I've done and get a lot of compliments. I guess it means a lot because I literally can't draw a car or a dog.

So I have one of those erasers that's in pencil form, like, it looks like a pencil, but instead of "pencil lead" or whatever, it's an eraser. It gets into tiny spaces to erase small stuff.

Anyway, I've had luck toning down smears like this with these erasers. They have a light grit, so don't press too hard. It might help!

https://www.amazon.com/Faber-Castell-185698-Faber-Castel-Pencils/dp/B005M4LAUS/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1539890603&sr=8-4&keywords=eraser+pencil

I got a nice brush pen for Christmas so I just started getting into it also. While using it, I get the feeling that I don't have to follow all the rules as when using a dip pen. That makes it more creative and fun for me.

Your writing looks great! I cant keep my edges straight as inevitably my pressure is not consistent and therefore the thickness varies much more (but not in a good way).

So yeah, you can draw an eye at a time. That's great, because you took the time to notice what those gooey ocular nerves look like. Now you should buy a sketchbook and a few ink pens to aid your creativity. When I talk about effort, I mean time, dedication, focus, attention to detail.

Starting with a brush pen (fibeliner) will cause you all sorts of headaches. Although a novel way to make different lines and weights, I use it for large features or final touches.

I started with these great Steadler pens and this exact Sketchbook. The pens last me a long time, maybe 6 months of drawing almost every day.

I've drawn for a little more than two years, but have gotten exceptionally better because I bought the appropriate supplies.

After your suggestions my current amazon cart for her is:

Calligraphy: A Beginner's Guide to Pointed Pen and Brush Pen Lettering

Hand Lettering for Relaxation: An Inspirational Workbook for Creating Beautiful Lettered Art

Strathmore 300 Series Drawing Pad, Medium Surface, 9"x12" Glue Bound, 50 Sheets

Rhodia No.16 A5 6 x 8 1/4 80 Sheet, Dot Pad.

Tombow 56191 Advanced Lettering Set.

Pilot Parallel Pen 2-Color Calligraphy Pen Set, with Black and Red Ink Cartridges in 2.4mm Nib size and 3.8mm Nib size with extra 12 assorted colors cartridges and 12 black cartridges. I assume the cartridges are not dependent on nib size as that would be infuriatingly stupid. Only dependent on the brands pen circumference? Correct me if I am wrong on that.

Hopefully that's pretty comprehensive but as far as speedball goes these are the texts I've found:

Speedball Textbook 24th Edition for $8.67.

Speedball Textbook: For Pen and Brush Lettering, 20th Edition for $113.35.

The Speedball Textbook, a comprehensive Guide to Pen and Brush Lettering, 23rd, Twenth-Third Edition for $51.01 new.

Did you have a specific edition in mind? A lot of the ones I'm seeing on amazon vary greatly as shown above.

I've recently gotten into painting Japanese watercolor postcards on etegami paper. Etegami painting is supposed to be a relaxing experience where clumsy is good. Plus, as postcards they're fun to mail to friends and family.

https://www.jetpens.com/Akashiya-Etegami-Postcard-Size-Paper-Gasen-Paper-Pack-of-10-Sheets/pd/4720

(You can get the size you need)
https://www.amazon.com/Kuretake-Picture-Letter-MC20-36V/dp/B001MPA6W4/

My suggestion is to buy a Pilot Metropolitan, which comes with both a cartridge and a converter so you can try both out. I would also suggest getting a bottle of a basic, workhorse ink. Something like Noodler's Black would be a good option, a nice saturated black that is waterproof and behaves pretty well on cheap paper.

They are called "Color My Bath" and we got them off amazon.com We also got some Crayola bath crayons and bath paint off amazon.com as well. All really fun things to do in the tub and it all washes away easily. The crayons can be completely submerged and they will still work great.

Edit: here is the link http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004813L0S/ref=redir_mdp_mobile/179-1283759-8108138

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0043BYOO0/ref=pd_aw_sims_2?pi=SY115&simLd=1&dpPl=1&dpID=41kvL%2Bsnz1L

http://www.amazon.com/Play-Visions-Crayola-Bathtub-Paints/dp/B009ZXLU0C

For the major borders I used a Medium .7mm and for the stairs and fine details, as well as the crosshatched border a Small .3mm

I use Faber-Castell artist pens. Go through them fairly fast but they give me awesome lines. I just wish the Medium .7mm was actually a .8mm hhahaaha

Here is a link: http://www.amazon.com/Pitt-Artist-Pens-Wallet-Styles/dp/B000TKEZDO

Thank u :3
I don’t erase the guide lines, this drawing was done without an eraser or ruler. I’m trying to play with pencils’ tonality. As an example first I draw the outline with a HB, if I do some mistakes I go over it with B or press harder on the HB.
When I’m doing a non technical drawing and I need an outline I do a basic pencil sketch and the trace it.
The red pencil idea is good if u plan to process ur work digitally.
Also u can use different types of erasers, there are some that look like a pencil ( https://www.amazon.com/Faber-Castell-185698-Faber-Castel-Pencils/dp/B005M4LAUS ) or are soft like dough ( https://www.ebay.com/itm/Soft-Rubber-Kneaded-Eraser-Wipe-Highlight-Art-Sketch-Painting-Correction-Tools/233278662189?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item36507de62d:g:nGEAAOSwglJdHNfj )so u can mold it as u wish to get more precision.
Overall, with time u won’t need an eraser.

Sorry, I should've been more specific. When I wrote Noodler's, I meant Noodlers Black, this one.

> if you find an ink too wet, you can add a tiny bit of water to make it drier. This works by diluting the amount of surfectants/other things that help the ink flow.

Well that's new for me. Thanks, that's awesome to know this! I'd think quite the opposite because all this wetness/dryness logic (such as add water = wetter).

I just got a JinHao pen and it looks amazing. The reason I say looks is because I don't have ink for it. I've checked the sidebar and the sub wiki and such, but I had a question for y'all. What's your favorite non-blue and non-black ink? If I was going to go black I'd get this and blue would be this. But I want something.. different.

I'd like to stay around or under $20.

This is my recommendation. Get that in addition to this. It's clear that you are an artist. You can use that to relax when you're stressed and even share and teach it with your children. Show them how to use their imaginations to create amazing things.

Ever look into getting something more like a pigment pen? I admit, I'm a Pilot G2 guy myself so I am interested in seeing what recommendations there.

Something like the Staedtler or Sakura is what I am referring to. They have a bit more bleed-through if you are writing on standard A4 paper, but when I've had the pleasure of using those types of instruments I am never disappointed.

Thanks! The lines were done with XS Faber-Castell, which utilize India Ink. I love their pens :)

Edit: This is the set I use


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HF562K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_WBH8ybEFZKG9D

You might want to get a black thin tip gundam marker to fill in the lines. Other tools that are helpful are a pair of side cutters for cutting parts off the runners, and some x-acto knifes and sandpaper to get rid of the nubs left from cutting the pieces out. I usually use 800+ grit. A flat top coat can be sprayed on to remove the shine from the kit, and give it a more model like look than something that looks like a toy. Hope this is helpful!

Keyboard: WASD 61 Keys with custom cap colors (built on their site)

Headphones: Sennheiser HD 598 SR with open backs.

Pen: Baoer 388 with a medium nib

I want to buy a nicer pen but for right now this one (with Noodler's black ink) works perfectly. I use numbers a lot at work, so I plan on making a separate number pad soon, and I also am probably going to purchase a trackball to place between the keyboard and number pad. The headphones I bought on Prime Day for half their normal price (at the time).

Like any hobby the initial cost to start will always be high. You may be tempted to buy cheaper tools but whats the point if you plan on building Gunpla for a while and will end up replacing them. If you only want to build 1-2 kits then you can get away with 2 dollar clippers and a box cutter but it won't give you good results.

Despite the cost these are still the tools I recommend that EVERY Gunpla owner who doesn't plan on painting their kits purchase

A) Tamiya 74035 Sharp pointed side cutters, worth every penny

B) Xuron 410 Side Cutters, very durable at an affordable cost

C) X-Acto X3000, Comfort rubber grip, comes with 2 blades

D) 3 Fine tipped Gundam Markers, Black, Grey and Brown

E) Krylon Acrylic Flat Coat, large can for only $5-6


And that's it.

1. Use the Xuron side cutters to cut the part off the runner. Cut on the fat part (the runner) not the thin part next to the part (the gate). This will decrease the stress on the plastic and will maintain the sharp blade on your more expensive Tamiya side cutters.
   
   2)Use the Tamiya cutters to cut the remaining nub, with practice you can get it practically flush to the part.
   
   
   3)Clean up the nub with a hobby knife. You don't need sandpaper or a file if you did the steps above correctly and the flat coat will mask any scratches.
   
   4)Use the Gundam markers for lining
   
   
2. Apply your sticker (peel one of the corners and then "scoop" and apply it using the hobby knife, no tweezer needed).
   
   6)Finally finish with a top coat
   
   Total cost with amazon prime is $65. Yes the Initial cost is high but the tools above will last you for 20+ kits (you will need to buy more blades and flat coat). If you really can't afford that you can save up for the Tamiya sharp pointed side cutters and use the Xurons in the mean time (you will have more work to do).
   
   So $38-65 initial investment to me is really not that expensive
   

If you really want to kick it up a notch, I recommend getting a nice brush pen. They are awesome for inking drawings. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019Z6SYIE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_zUJKAb4ZJ3GDZ

I currently use kuretake watercolors with these brush pens and I think they’re pretty solid. It’s not a huge investment and I think they’re a good starter pack for casual water colorists.

I highly also recommend clipping your pages and having maybe a hair dryer handy so your pages don’t warp from getting too wet.

I'm a pen and ink artist, and [these] (http://www.amazon.com/Pilot-Precise-Rolling-Assorted-26015/dp/B000J07E7I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415656843&sr=8-1&keywords=precise+v5+pen) are my weapon of choice, they are perfect. Also [these] (http://www.amazon.com/Faber-Castell-Black-Wallet-Assorted-Pitt/dp/B005HF562K/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1415656901&sr=8-2&keywords=artist+pen+set) are amazing for mixed media drawings on gesso, I could show you some things I've done with each if you're interested.

Do you have pictures of your stuff? I'm drawing something up for you now!

I don't know what is too expensive for you but the other day I saw the 72 set on amazon for $65 down from $84 which is quite a good deal. You could always try getting some open stock and build up your collection from there. And I do agree they are a bit pricey, but I think they are so worth it. The ink is much more vivid than regular watercolor in my opinion.
You could watch them on camel camel camel and see if the price drops again.

Sakura microns. They’re pretty easy to find at pretty much any art store. I think I’ve even seen them at wal mart before.

https://www.amazon.de/PIGMA-MICRON-Fineliner-Stifte-schwarz/dp/B004AQODNU/ref=mp_s_a_1_2/258-2170369-7779339?ie=UTF8&qid=1550415223&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=microns+pens&dpPl=1&dpID=41Y8DqcgcIL&ref=plSrch

its the tombow "fudenoske" brushpen, i order them from amazon here. its meant for caligraphy but i find it really good for linework, would recommend!

Yeah you did really great on those parts for sure!

I've found the Crayola ones aren't too bad for the price. I suggest getting a Derwent Blender and Burnisher set, it should work well with the crayolas. I mostly use Prismacolor but yeah they are way more expensive.

Yeah; don't mess up!

I'm just kidding, I do have an actual tip. Since I don't know your experience level, it might be stuff you know already, sorry if so.

Use pens with different size tips (such as these ) to differentiate different elements, like the outline of the mountains vs the contours of the mountains, and the coastline vs rivers. Start by inking everything but the thinnest lines with a medium size pen, then go over the thicker lines with the thicker pen. This gives you some wiggle room for changing shapes slightly during the inking process, so you're not stuck with the first line you laid down. Then when all of that is done, give it about 10-20 minutes to fully dry and erase your pencil lines gently with a white eraser.

Then go in with your thinnest pen and do the finest lines.

Thanks! I use some paint pens! GSI Creos Gundam Marker Basic Set (6 Markers) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009AFN0S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9qmsDbBKTQP2B

Those are the ones I use. Take some getting used to. So practice on some junk castings first 😆😂

Noodler's Ink black. Item number 19001. I use the pen at work so I have to keep things simple and professional. I'd prefer a nice dark blue, but, eh. It's for my paperwork.

I like your handwriting. Mine is still sloppy but I'm working on it.

If cleaning doesn't work then I'll try the soap trick. Thanks.

lol I think the same thing every time I see those. It looks like someone ctrl-v'd a generic anime face on the head without bothering to resize it proportionally.

Faber-Castell makes really nice pens though. I use this set.

Not a leftie but I loved these when I started out!

Tombow is my personal favorite!

Or

Prismacolor is a great choice as well

I love this idea of an alphabetical contest series :)

Dr. Ph. Martin's India Inks so I can write colorful calligraphy :)

or

Decodyne™ Fruit Infused Water Bottle so I can make really tasty water! I drink 3 L a day so it gets a little boring :)

Do we need a raffle phrase?

Thanks, I'm glad you like it. Lately I've been making adjustments to my style in order to be a bit more economical. Particularly with the use of line so that I don't need to rely quite so heavily on color in order to add dimension. You can compare it to my current portfolio.

[This] (https://www.amazon.com/Fudenosuke-Brush-Pen-Soft-Black/dp/B019Z6SYIE/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1503408160&sr=8-4&keywords=Tombow+brush+pen+soft) is the pen I used for my lines. The color was added in Photoshop.

If you just want to draw on them to add detail I recommend

http://www.amazon.com/GSI-Creos-Black-Gundam-Marker/dp/B00HY8JI7C/ref=sr_1_1?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1422131965&sr=1-1&keywords=gundam+marker&pebp=1422131945212&peasin=B00HY8JI7C

they're designed for use on Gundam models and work great and have a very fine tip. I've used them on other figures before too and had no problems. If you get them just be sure not to touch the marker right away so it doesn't smudge.

They have a silver and a gold as well which work beautifully, I use them for everything with customs. There's other colors available but those have thicker tips so I wouldn't recommend them for fine details.

Just from going on Amazon, these seem to be pretty good, based on reviews (plus you can choose the size). As for techniques, I unfortunately can't help you there as I don't use pastels myself. And who to draw next, I suggest Buu. He's one of my favorite villains.

Hope I was at least a little helpful!

This pretty much. I started doing the lesson using a ballpoint pen and ran into the same problem regarding the indents being left on the paper. When I was doing ghosting lines it really started to become apparent that I should pick up a fineliner. Whenever I would use a ruler to make my first line it would leave an indent in the paper, so whenever I would do superimposing lines I was never sure if I was actually drawing my lines as straight as I was or if my hand was just trailing along the indentation left on the paper.

I'm currently using a Staedtler Pigment Liner that I bought from Amazon for $10.72, I'd recommend it.

[Lamy 2000] (http://www.amazon.com/Lamy-2000-Fountain-Black-L01F/dp/B001D3PYT0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1397277169&sr=8-1&keywords=lamy+2000) as a modern pen, [Sheaffer Snorkel] (http://www.peytonstreetpens.com/sheaffer/1950s-sheaffers/sheaffer-valiant-snorkel-1950s-black-medium-superior-restored.html) as a vintage { [here] (http://www.peytonstreetpens.com/sheaffer/1950s-sheaffers/sheaffer-triumph-tm-touchdown-fountain-pen-gold-filled-fine-very-nice-restored.html) is another snorkel that matches your EDC}. however if you want something to try it out first go with a [pilot metropolitan] (http://www.amazon.com/Pilot-Metropolitan-Writing-Fountain-91107/dp/B009X9Z2FW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1397277744&sr=8-1&keywords=pilot+metropolitan+fountain+pen). Finally [here] (http://www.amazon.com/Noodlers-Black-Waterproof-Fountain-Pen/dp/B000MVZ2E6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1397277859&sr=8-1&keywords=noodlers+black) is a good black ink to start with. If you want me to recommend another color ink or want a specific trait in the pen just ask!

My experience with inks is pretty limited, I hope others will help me out with suggestions. I use Private Reserve DC Supershow Blue, which is a full, darkish blue. My uncle recommended it to me because it is easy to clean and it is easy to restart pens that have dried up using a drop of water. HOWEVER, it has no water resistance whatsoever, so if you expect your notes to come in contact with water (aka rain), they will smear badly. Inks like a Noodler's Bulletproof Black are great if you want your notes to last a long time. However, I haven't used a bulletproof ink before, but I know they smell.

If you don't already have a proper tool kit like This you'll want to get one, when i first started i just used household tools like scissors and my kit's came out horrible with nub marks all over the place. The file or some sandpaper will work wonders to remove those. You'll also want a panel line marker like This they come in different colors so look around to get the one that matches the model your working on, adding panel lines alone greatly improves the look of the model. After you have the nub mark removal and panel lining down the sky is the limit you can dabble in custom painting or try your hand at kitbashing custom models. Research each thoroughly before trying them and expect a lot of errors at first if you try those.

So i just got back from Asia and got a haul of HG and one RG and MG. I'm just getting back into Gunpla after a 10~year hiatus, and want to take a step up in to beginner level painting/panel lining/etc instead of just straight builds.

Some 1/144s I got that I want to start working on:
HGBF X-1 FullCloth (the one Lucas used in BFT)
V2 AB
HG Wing0
HGBF Wing Honoo? (Its a red.... Wing gundam?)
HD X Divider

I dont know the first thing about painting, and have watched some tutorials here and on youtube.

1. Will the Gundam Colour markers be enough for beginner level of painting and cover most generic colours? I do have painting brushes/trays from my wife's painting tools.
   
   Gundam Marker basic set
   
   Gundam Marker Metallic
   
   
2. I also brought a... thickish? panel line marker instead of a fine tip one. I think its GM301/302 or something. Lets just say i made a mess trying to panel line a SD (Gundam Base limited Musha Godmaru if that matters? ver Clear colour). Is this not used for panel lining? I bought this with recommendation from the staff at Tokyo Gundam Base (using Google Translate...)
   
   
3. I randomly bought a Gloss spray from a shop in Akihabara? I believe that is branded Mr.Hobby? Should it be used because i paint/panel line? I've seen some say before but some also after? or should a gloss coat be done with paint instead of spray?
   
   
4. I browsed around the web and see a "add-on" for HG V2 with the Wings of light effect, but can't seem to find it anywhere? Is there a way I can purchase this? I live in Canada Toronto if that matters.
   
   Thanks in advance for the random questions.

Depends on the size. A size '01' is .25mm which is fine for most of the smaller panel lines. There is a size '005' which is .2mm and if you can find one, it's more versatile than the 01.

My son started panel lining with markers and honestly, my set of Liners work just as well as the different brand name markers he has for much cheaper.

The new hotness though is using Tamiya wash and an extra fine nib in a fountain pen holder. Panel lining with a wash (premade or lacquer-based DIY wash) is a whole new world.

I recommend getting pigma microns they're the best imo. I use them for most of my line work. However, for practice and getting your technique down, I use uni pin

So this was my first gunpla! I got impatient waiting for my gundam markers to come in (which are taking forever!) so i decided to try my hand at lining and using the decals. I wanted to put one i cared a little less about before i put together my SD Freedom Gundam. I was thinking about doing Freedom with some orange instead of blue (maybe), but wasn't sure how to do a metallic-ish orange without an airbrush :P

Noodler's Black is fairly well known for being bleed resistant:
https://www.amazon.com/Noodlers-Black-Waterproof-Fountain-Pen/dp/B000MVZ2E6

For bleed through I've found that higher quality paper helps more than different inks. I like these A5 Clairefontaines:
https://www.gouletpens.com/clairefontaine-1951-clothbound-notebook-black-lined/p/C195246

Inks. Go play with these inks. You'll get way more contrast and enjoy the intense colors. http://www.amazon.com/Dr-Ph-Martin-27s-Bombay-India/dp/B0026I10EE

Thanks :D

It's made with a Tombow WS-BS Brush Pen Fudenosuke, soft tip.

I love that pen! And they have one with hard tip as well- that one is just as good but for smaller writing/ drawing.

i got these two with a metro

hope i got the right stuff lol

I haven't tried many inks, but the one I'm using now is Noodler's Bulletproof Black, and it's just excellent. In a Lamy Safari EF, it's my go-to pen for everyday use.

the duck is alive

art makes me pretty happy these days 🎨

I really like these artist pens have some in black and some in grey. Feels more authoritative then pencil and you can get a nice sense of tone with the greys.

Panel lining. Use a very fine-tip paint marker, like this; brush on inks; or even really, really, really thinned down paints. Use it to pick out the separations between the toy vehicle's molded in body panels, hatches, and doors. Really helps make them "pop."


https://preview.redd.it/8n8h1p3x9ef11.jpg?width=640&crop=smart&auto=webp&s=0800dd71f8a56bed87de388256da7f86e8f9e574

Otherwise a black fine tip gundam maker would also work, such as this!

Granted the link I sent you is the US Amazon site, but I've used it on my own Petitgguys with nothing more than a bit of over drawing that is easily cleaned up with a cotton swab.

I recommend taking a trip down to a local hobby store that sells gunpla- I've found that (at least for mine) it's usually cheaper and can have kits that aren't available online. You can also improve your build with some panel lining- using one of these (or a marker of your choice) along lines in the design to make it look as though 2 panels are separated.

Oil based inks? No, it wouldn't flow as nicely and it wouldn't flow as nicely in the pen. However, there are some safe pigment inks that are "waterproof." I want to put a disclaimer here though, you should not use any ink not intended for fountain pens, ever. Specifically India ink. It's too heavily pigmented and will destroy the pen's feed (that's the piece that rests behind the nib and connects to the ink reserve).

There are a few notable waterproof inks out there, most of them are labeled as "taper proof" or "safety ink" intended for office use. After all, there still are a fair share of professionals who use fountain pens but need to have taper proof signatures (same goes for personal use and signing documents). Noodle's bullet proof ink is quite good, and inexpensive for a waterproof and tamper proof ink. Platinum also makes one as well. There are others out there, but they escape my mind. Only downside to the waterproof inks is they are not quite as "wet" as other inks., and they lack the verity of colours

Get Noodlers ink. The stuff is awesome and doesn't bleed through moleskine paper.

This is what I did in college. I used bathtub crayons to write on it. They also work great on mirrors and windows (and bathtubs). http://www.amazon.com/Play-Visions-Crayola-Bathtub-Crayons/dp/B0043BYOO0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1457577859&sr=8-1

This is what I got. They shake like paint pens do, so I figured they were the same.

Thank you.

What is the purpose of the yellow, red and blue pens if you are just going to use the grey, black and brown ones?

Nice! Can't wait to see it decaled.

You can either mask it off with Tamiya masking tape (they do curved tape too), paint very carefully with a thin brush, or use a Gundam lining marker pen to do it.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/GSI-Creos-GM01-Black-Fine/dp/B00HY8JI7C/ref=sr_1_1?s=kids&ie=UTF8&qid=1483116413&sr=1-1&keywords=gundam+pen

Hi. 2 questions.

1). Are these kits all legit/genuine gunpla, or are there any knock offs/bootlegs?


2). If i panel line with this do I need a top coat? Ive heard it dries and ive heard it doesnt and needs top coat.

Thanks

If you wish to use markers for panel lining, you will want a fine tip pen such as:

https://www.amazon.com/GSI-Creos-Black-Gundam-Marker/dp/B00HY8JI7C

It's a staedtler pigment liner. They come in packs from 0.05 to 0.8. I use them all the time, perfect for tiny details

Get yourself a pack of good ol' Staedtler pigment liners. You can't go wrong. Link for reference: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004L87XRA/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1492185452&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=staedtler&dpPl=1&dpID=51U5RvwpsEL&ref=plSrch

I have these

Masking fluid is used to cover the spots you want to keep white in a painting. You put the masking fluid on those spots and once its dry you can paint over it then when the paint is dry again you rub off the masked bits with an eraser and TA DA! It’s really cool!

Any of the inks that are considered "bulletproof" from Noodler's (Noodler's black, 54th Mass. etc.) will not smear (unless they haven't dried). Once a bulletproof black is on some cellulose material (e.g. paper, fibers) it is there for good.

http://www.amazon.com/Noodlers-Black-Waterproof-Fountain-Pen/dp/B000MVZ2E6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427578163&sr=8-1&keywords=noodler%27s+black

I was watching this funny fake Prismacolor color pencil review, and found out about these eraser pencils ($~9.00) that would really help with my art/shading.

thanks! i used a set of fineliners on regular paper, staedtler i think, black. let's see, i think it's these;

http://www.amazon.com/Staedtler-Pigment-Sketch-Regular-308SB6P/dp/B004L87XRA/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1374696986&sr=8-14&keywords=staedtler+fineliner

Hey everyone!

I'm as new as it gets. So, I made a shopping list after doing some research on everything that I think I need to start. I'll place the links to all the items in the lines below. Everything is on Amazon because... well why not?

Gundam

Glue

Marker

Tweezers

Knife

Cutters

Mat

More Markers!

*Krylon Matte Finish

Am I missing anything?

My cheapest is $6 tea and my most expensive is this ink set at a whopping $23. Haha. I don't typically spend a lot of myself so at $23 it's probably something I'll never convince myself that I need.

I use gundam panel lining pens, like these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HY8JI7C/ref=twister_B01N8TDZIM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 - black

https://www.amazon.com/GSI-Creos-Point-Gundam-Marker/dp/B006B3YYZM/ref=pd_bxgy_21_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B006B3YYZM&pd_rd_r=WF27RX3KPCKMWVEPFH2E&pd_rd_w=5XjyC&pd_rd_wg=XTRl0&psc=1&refRID=WF27RX3KPCKMWVEPFH2E - grey

Thank you, which markers should I pick up? these?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009AFN0S/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A9Q1SRRTDFE7O

Noodlers Bulletproof black has a pretty big following. I use it myself and it perfectly fits my ink needs. They also sell other inks that people seem to enjoy, but I personally have no experience with them.

• Practice.
  
• Did you get a blender pencil? I find it helps with making smoother transitions between different colors.
  
  EDIT: Derwent instruction video

If you don't want to mess around with ink, I'd recommend the Faber-Castell Pitt Artist Pens. http://amzn.com/B000TKEZDO

You're a painter! Do you have a dA page or blog? I paint as well, but mostly on masonite.

Mine's a sketch book but I'm going to the art supply store tomorrow and probably buying one there. I also have a set of tinted charcoal and some eraser pencils marked as high priorioty. I do lots of portraits.

GM01 Black Fine Line https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00HY8JI7C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_eExyybGVJ187W

Gundam Marker GM02 Gray Fine Tip GUNPLA https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B006B3YYZM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_RHxyybAA0VTDA

Grey on white and light colours black on darker colours

I have some of these. You can get them at any store like Meijer, Target, Kmart, etc. I took these to a fancy hotel and left the housekeeping drawings on the shower wall.

Edit: Crayons!

CROCODILE DUNDEE!!!!! :D Now that's a knife!

Dude. Big Trouble In Little China on the big screen is awesomesauce. Resevoir Dogs is another good one of mine.

Baby Bunnies. Precious. Baby. Bunnies. Cuteness. Precious. Darlings. Sweethearts!

Pens to draw bunnies!

<3 <3 <3 <3 <3BUNNAHZZZZZ<3 <3 <3 <3 <3

I bought a [Tamiya tool set] (https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-Basic-Tool-Horizon-Hobby/dp/B000BMYWXI) like a decade a ago and I still use the side cutter and blade. I am not use to hobby knives, so I cut the nub far from the piece and then use the slide knife in that set to remove the remaining nub. I'm just more comfortable with that than I am with hobby knives. And then if there are still white stress marks, run over it with your fingernail. It works, don't know the chemistry or physics behind it. Get a [gundam marker lining pen thing] (https://www.amazon.com/GSI-Creos-Black-Gundam-Marker/dp/B00HY8JI7C/ref=pd_lpo_21_lp_t_4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=P3JJW08V8MEW95H7MR8M). You can use other fine tipped marker, different colors, etc, but your mileage may vary.

Might this be something like you were talking about?

https://www.amazon.com/GSI-Creos-Gundam-Marker-Markers/dp/B0009AFN0S

A general pack like this, is a good starting point. If at some point you need a color outside of that set, try searching for an apporpriate color through hobbywave, or robot4less.

http://www.amazon.com/GSI-Creos-Gundam-Marker-Markers/dp/B0009AFN0S/ref=cm_lmf_tit_6


You can also use one of these for panel lining:

http://www.amazon.com/Gundam-GM01-Black-Fine-Line/dp/B0027ORJ10/ref=pd_sim_t_4

I bought the set of gundam markers in the link below. However, when I tried to apply the gray, the gray looked darker than the gray from the runner. I smeared it to give it a feather effect but it was still too dark to be the same color. Am I suppose to let it dry first and then it would be the same shade of gray?

Also, this shade of gray of course only works of the darker one. What color is the one from the legs? Can't be th white one.... can it?

Lastly, is there a marker for epyon's color scheme if I want to continue with this method for epyon?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009AFN0S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

While your experimenting, try out the brand Pentel Arts. You can get a box of 50 for under $5 through Amazon prime. They are student quality. After you get a taste and opinion of what that set is lacking, research professional grade.

Edit: link to Amazon- Pentel Arts Oil Pastels, 50 Color Set (PHN-50) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LFCWSPM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_wU.PBbK08PZ0T

GSI Creos Black Fine Point Gundam Marker https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HY8JI7C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_w8YVDbZW4ESJD

Boom! Roasted.

Leroy Jethro Gibbs from NCIS is my pick. I could go on and on why I love him but my biggest reason is because he reminds me so much of my grandfather. Very tough exterior but once he allows you inside you see a completely different person.

"Rule #51, "Sometimes — You're wrong,"

My son is very big into drawing at the moment and these bath crayons would absolutely make his summer.

Online, the ink I use is on Amazon so I just get it there in recent years.

Heres a link to the pens. I bought it off of amazon. I use the superfine size normally. Faber-Castell PITT Artists' Pen Set Black. https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000TKEZDO/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_DN1czb14KM9FM

These were Faber Castell Pitt pens, 4 pack from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000TKEZDO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_LuF7AbF24XN09)

I just bought Noodler's black and it's exactly what you want. The only small thing is that it's not a pure, darkness of space black.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MVZ2E6/ref=nav_timeline_asin?ie=UTF8&psc=1

cheesecake all day everyday

My favourite dessert are profiteroles mmmmmmmmmmm.

Item under $15

Here's the basic set that is associated to the classic Gundam colors. There are many more sets that you can buy if you are willing to search around for them.

Draw stuff! That's what I did when my internet was out for a whole week.

Tomorrow, 9AM.

Linky

actually that was the brand of paper I got


my paints are Japanese

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Kuretake-Gansai-Japanese-Watercolour-Paints/dp/B001MPA6W4

Pinselstifte brauchen normalerweise keine Tusche oder Tinte mehr.

Pilot Metropolitan <F> nib and Noodler's Black. Use a CON-40 or CON-50 converter for the ink as the included converter is more for cleaning than anything

It might not be a colored pencil. Might be an eraser pencil

https://www.amazon.com/Faber-Castell-185698-Faber-Castel-Pencils/dp/B005M4LAUS/ref=sr_1_4?

At this moment I'm using Kuretake 36 colour set. https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B001MPA6W4/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_W0EBCb4TNW996

Bath Tub Crayons Add On $3.97 from Things for Eli list

Wax Strips Add On $6.09 from her Health/beauty list.

Staedtler Pigment Liner I believe is what is being used.

Edit: Kiket to liner.

yea me to so far... thinking about getting some
Staedtler 308 SB6P Pigment Liner Fineliner's though as they seem to be smaller (in nib width)

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B004L87XRA/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE

The regular Staedler fineliners run, but their "pigment" liners don't.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004L87XRA/ref=sr_ph_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467672443&sr=sr-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=Staedtler

Behold

I'm using the Black Gundam Marker. I did a lot of cleaning on the kit when I messed up but I just couldn't get it right. My main issue was that I made sure to do it lightly but it went on so thick, and I always have shaky hands so that never helped the situation.

EDIT: This is the marker I use http://www.amazon.co.uk/GSI-Creos-GM01-Black-Fine/dp/B00HY8JI7C

Faber-Castell Pitt Artist Pens

They go easily over acrylic paint and make really smooth lines. Lots of painters who do black outlines use them because they are more exact. I use the "brush" one and the others are good for smaller projects or watercolors. I would not recommend using anything other than the brush-tip one for paintings because the tips are too hard and much gouge the paint or ruin your pen tip.

Sorry, I tried to link it, but it didn’t work. Let me try again: here!

Cut with these

Sand with this

Fill in stressed plastic with these

Make it Noodler's bulletproof.

Once this touches fabric it is never. Ever. Coming out. Not even with bleach. If you want something ruined forever, this will more than do the trick.

My Lamy Safari is getting quite worn out. I've had it for years and it's been riding around in my pocket the entire time. Switching back to writing in cursive with that pen made it so that I can actually somewhat keep up with notes without developing horrifying writer's cramp.

A large portion of the black coating is gone off of the wire clip, it no longer retains in the cap like it should, and I've had to replace the nib where it got loose in my pocket and got crushed. Still love the thing, though. In the end, it's wound up saving me money, because the $40 I spent on the pen, a bottle of ink, plunger insert, and replacement nib is all I've spent on writing implements in the last 3 years or so, whereas before, I was going through multiple G2 gel pens a month.

I have no idea why that caused me to go off onto such a tangent. I guess I'm just attached to that pen. I use Noodler's Bulletproof Black Ink in mine, by the way.

EDIT: Why not get that USP in .45 ACP, by the way? I think I would have gone with .45 instead. I already have half a dozen handguns in 9mm, though, so maybe it's just saturation on my part.

Sieht nach typischen Pigment Linern aus, kann die von Staedtler empfehlen. Das Skizzenbuch sieht nach nem klassischen Moleskine oder Leuchtturm 1917 aus