Reddit mentions: The best automotive alternators & generators

They're alright. If you can afford to retrofit, I recommend doing that. Avoid any of the aftermarket lights that have projector lenses. They're all garbage from everything I have heard. The ones I got are nice because they fit the stock light (9007) and fit my pre-existing HID kit. I'm running 5000K Kensun HID's for my fog lights and my headlights (headlights are lo/hi). They're bright as hell but in Texas, it is illegal to run HID's without projector lenses and for good reason. (they spread across the road and are not controlled)


These are the headlights. They feel strong and solid but I had to return two passenger sides before I got one that worked properly. (the halo rings were not acting right).

The wiring was pretty straight forward. I wired my halo rings into the fog light's relay so they kick on with the driving lights.

Another neat little thing to get to complete the badass look are some switch back LED turn signals. I got these.

If you decide to get the switchbacks, don't forget to get the load resisters. Otherwise your turn signals will blink too fast.

Also, it doesn't look like a 98 because I have installed the 03 edge front-end and hood.

I will upload some night photos tonight. its hard to get the lighting right on my camera at night to where you can actually tell how they look. I'll do my best.

The fit can be a bit of an issue, but having the wrong number of pins is a lot more concerning. I went here for the 1996 3.2 V6 in the LS trim with an automatic trans which gives the part number 2902766200. A quick google search of that part number and "Isuzu" shows an Amazon listing for $110 which claims to fit that car as well as some Hondas. Pretty common for a company like Isuzu to buy parts from another manufacturer. It's hard to tell, but that listing has one pic that shows four "blades" for the plug in a configuration kind of like _||_ in case that looks like yours. If you have a different model then make sure that yours matches the same part, but there is a good chance it does. If you find that the pulleys are different you can probably get a loaner gear puller from any auto parts store and scavenge your old one. If you aren't 100% sure about something it may be worth it to buy local (~$140) for ease of returns and warranty. Note that they'll charge you an extra $50 "core" charge until you give them the old and busted one.

EDIT: By the way, mine is not totally stock. It is only made to look stock.
I have so many things I need to tell you about a "first off" kind of thing with the bike. FIRST OFF get new tires and tubes. Your electrical system sucks ass. The 6v wires are shit and any one of your lights will dim the other. Get a 6v "normal light" for your brake light, and make the rest 6v LEDs. Get the aftermarket headlight for the bike on Ebay it's like $45 but it will save you in the long run when you blow out bulbs while testing out your system. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-XL100-XL125-XL175-XL250-XL350-MT125-MT250-Headlight-6-V-Trim-Ring-Case-/361374724763?hash=item54239cb29b:g:eAsAAOSwDk5T9bTT&vxp=mtr
As soon as you buy that, put on a 12v AC voltage regulator on your Yellow headlight wire from your stator https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0087PZV5O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Your little ceramic wire resistor sucks ass and will fall apart as soon as you touch it, so take that shit out of the bike.
After that, you will need a new flasher. for your turn signals.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003CKJL14/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Now that flasher is a thermal flasher, so with LED bulbs in your turn signal spots it wont flash, so what I did is put LED bulbs on my rear turn signals, and kept the classic bulbs in the front.
When it comes to your engine, don't waste time.
Buy a gasket kit on eBay, and while you are in there change your clutch plates ($35). You WILL 100% need a special tool to do that which is like $8 on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CRH18OG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Also all the oil seals on the bike. Check the engine cylinder, piston, and engine head. Replace the valve seals on in the engine head because mine were bad at 7k miles, and spewing out smoke from my exhaust. Most likely you will need to swap the piston rings, and that will cost like $50 but if you want, they sell big bore kits, and STD kits that will replace your whole jug and piston with gaskets etc for not that much more.
Check all your gears, especially your starter gear for signs of missing teeth, or bad gears. If you need any pages out of my Clymer manual, let me know. That book is the best. You will need the wiring diagram! Once I figure out how to post that, I will hook a brotha up.
Now that your engine is in great shape, and is still spitting out smoke (yes mine still is. I think they all do that at this age)
You will want to do some painting. That is your own personal mess to tackle. There are plenty of painters who will give you advice.
Other tips of advice: BikeBandit, and CMSNL are your friends to finding part numbers, then buying the parts on eBay. I have completely disassembled this bike, and the entire engine, completely disassembled is sitting in two plastic tubs in my garage while I wait for a fucking expensive starter gear to come in.
If you have ANY questions on what to buy, or what to do with your restoration. I can give you the name for what parts I used, and where I got them, like my aftermarket carburetor and shit.
Also, when you feel like tackeling the fork seals, hit me up, they are a complete bitch to change, and will take a special set of instructions to tackle without taking them to a shop.
By the way, DON'T TAKE YOUR BIKE TO A SHOP.
I hope the best to you. Maybe one day we will meet up with out bikes at one of the meet up events they have, like the one in Alabama this year!

I'd be pretty pissed about that. But yeah without load resistors, if the new lights are LEDs then you will still have the same issue. You'll need something like this to prevent it.

4Pcs Aaron 50W 6ohm Load Resistors - Fix LED Bulb Fast Hyper Flash Turn Signal Blink Error Code https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L4V9ECY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_V7UXAbB9DVN53

It's pretty straightforward to install, just Google it or message me if you need help with them. I'd recommend mounting them on metal where they won't come into contact with plastic though as they may heat up.

I'd also just like to mention that, of the risks I listed above, a surge protector does basically nothing to protect against voltage sags (which is easily able to damage electrical equipment - as voltage drops, amperage rises). Many RV'ers use a device called a Hughes Autoformer to alleviate that risk element. This device compensates for low voltage by way of a step-up transformer (video demo). In addition, it performs surge protection as well. It's more expensive than the surge protectors I linked to above, but is a comprehensive electrical protection device that covers pretty much all the bad-power bases. I don't own one, but plan on getting one at some point. I have no stake in the company; just throwing it out there as an FYI.

edit: words, plus link to video demo

You'll need to add some resistors to the blinker wiring, or possibly switch to a no-load flasher. Basically, the factory flasher won't work because the LEDs don't provide enough resistance for it to function. You can get resistors at brick-and-mortar auto parts stores or online retailers. Here's an example on Amazon.

Or, if you don't want to mess with the wiring you can switch back to incandescents and the blinkers will probably start working again (unless something else is wrong!)

Also, take this as an opportunity to clean your ground connections with a wire brush. There should be 1 in the back (under the bed near the bumper), and 2 up front (1 near each headlight).

Here's Amazon for $140 with free shipping.

This one is new; the one /u/rhubes linked is used, but either should do you well.

I also went ahead and found you the Youtube video to replace your alternator for your specific car. Watch and watch again, and you'll be able to do it yourself!

If you have more time than money you can do a partial rebuild on the alternator yourself. Kits are available like this one one amazon

If moneys not the driving force I like to have them rebuilt by a local rebuilder or just replace with a parts store unit (local rebuilder highly preferred).

You can easily fix this by wiring in some load resistors.

Like these ones

https://www.amazon.com/4PCS-ARTR-6ohm-Load-Resistors/dp/B00UNG3EXQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1504056564&sr=8-3&keywords=load+resistor

Onan Quiet Diesel 8000. They make them up to 10 KW for the all electric class-A rigs. Outside you can hear it run, but more than a few feet away it is not very noticable. Inside the front, you hear a gentle 'humm' of the generator, but in the bedroom you can't hear it at all.

However, they are not cheap...

You're, correct that this isn't related to the A/C. It's just the cabin air system and it's an easy repair. It's mounted under the dash (passenger side). The only difficult part is that its slightly awkward to reach. If you push the seat as far back as it goes and lay on your back (half your body out of the car), it makes it easier to do. Should take about 10-15 mins to do. 5 mins if you've done it before.

/u/civicjohn is also correct. Here is the part you need:
amazon link. The highest speed is a direct passthrough with no resistance. The resistor reduces the power for speeds 1-3 (more resistance/less power for lower speeds). When the built-in fuse in the resistor trips, the fan will only run on the high setting.

If this doesn't work, or the resistor fails again or the air seems to blow weakly, then its the blower motor: amazon link. If the air is weak, then the bearings in the blower motor are bad. This could explain why the resistor blew. Unfortunately the bearings in the blower motor are not serviceable so the blower motor would need to be replaced. The good news is replacing this is just as easy as replacing resistor. Same area, 3 screws.

The resistor is about $20-$25 and the fan motor (aftermarket) is about $55 from Amazon. A Genuine Honda fan motor is really expensive. Something like $450 or in that neighborhood if I'm remembering correctly. If you insist on Genuine Honda factory parts, it's worth checking a junkyard if you have one nearby. BTW, a really short screwdriver is really handy.

Probably more info than you need but if you're like me, I like to know how things work and why they fail. It may also make the repair less daunting for those who may be a little timid about tinkering with their car. Hope this helps.

.

^the ^blower ^motors ^are ^known ^to ^be ^somewhat ^troublesome.

Yes, now I see that the black wire runs to the starter solenoid. It is hard to get it stuck in my head that black is not ground on this bike.

But if I go in the direction of replacing the regulator and rectifier with a combo (which I will end up doing because I want simple), the Caltric Rectifier Regulator that you posted says it only fits 79-83. Is that because those bikes come stock with it, and a 78 does not? Should I order this one instead considering it says it'll fit a 78?

The resistor goes between the positive wire for the turn signal / brake light and the ground wire.

Here's a picture for reference.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00UNG3EXQ?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image

Same... I ended up dropping my bike in the garage breaking a signal, and the taillight was already cracked so I went with a DRC Edge light... looks much better, easy enough to install.

http://www.twistedthrottle.ca/drc-edge-tail-light-with-aluminum-tail-light-holder-for-suzuki-drz400s-00-14-drz400sm-05-14

That didn't include blinkers... but they are only another $20 or $30... i had to add resistors for the blinkers though otherwise they flashed too fast... I got the resistors off amazon, I think. https://www.amazon.ca/AMAZENAR-Resistor-Running-Blinker-Cancellor/dp/B015JHP5QC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1492819468&sr=8-3&keywords=led+resistor

Sorry about all of the Canadian pricing... I'm in Canada so those are the links I know.

I ordered it a few days ago using my credit card through paypal just in case the part ends up being garbage or never comes then I can dispute the charge. I ordered a stator off of amazon:
TCMT Magneto Generator Engine... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010DMO0QE?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

It just came yesterday and I will install both as soon as i get the rotor. It looks good though..

Had to dig them out of my order history... here you go! (-:

Headlights-got a set for MIL's 2010 Forster and FIL's 2006 Forester... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FXP4KRS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_CAlzDbM6HHTV4

Turn signals for the front...(Aurora) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PY4VDD4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_sBlzDbFYTEF0R

These are the resisters for the turn signals so they don't blink fast...(both cars)... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UNG3EXQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_BClzDbADZV5S6

License plate lights and marker lights (I think he used these for both)... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0186P1MUW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9BlzDb01J1YPN

Fog lights for the Aurora, they can be yellow or blue, just have to turn the switch off and back on... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DGY4LQK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_UIlzDbSPTJ0EF

Headlights in the Aurora, can be a white/blue or yellow, switch off and on... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MF1RY6V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ZJlzDbQFKK85N

Tail lights/brake lights for the Aurora... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NPIUFMM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JLlzDbYRDS6B4

Sorry all the links are Amazon, hubby works there, so he gets a discount...the rear fog light bulbs must have come from somewhere else though, that's the only thing I can't find in our order history... unless it's the same bulbs as the brakes, there are two on that order...

OK, This is an alternator that op was talking about.

https://www.amazon.com/DB-Electrical-ADR0186-Alternator-Rendezvous/dp/B007Y86OUQ/ref=asc_df_B007Y86OUQ/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312442771380&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13236198802898546900&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=21164&hvtargid=aud-801381245258:pla-572399110518&psc=1

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Less than $100 and super easy to replace. You don't need to be car savvy to do this repair. If you don't feel comfortable doing this, should be $300 for a mechanic to do it. I don't think that this is your problem though. If your alternator was bad, you would be having other electrical issues. Radio dropping out, battery dying ..

If it's a fuel injector, should be around the same price for a mechanic to replace. This is more likely your issue.

Why not look up pictures of the alternator on the internet and compare to the one one your car?

Whatever, I already did it in 4 seconds. Here's the one for the V6, and here's the one for the 4cyl. They're not ever a little bit the same from the outside. Bolt holes don't line up. Your shop would have to do some pretty wacky stuff to get one to fit on the wrong engine.

In any case either would work if you could get it mounted as they're both 110 amps, 12 volts and internally regulated with the same regulator.

So, an alternator like this https://www.amazon.com/DB-Electrical-AND0525-Alternator-Chevrolet/dp/B00KGIDF9Y/ref=br_lf_m_82annu2ancpt4mu_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&s=automotive ?
Edit: but at that price I would probably just buy a rock tumbler.

You'd have to retrofit anything, there isn't any sort of 24V conversion kit. And anyway, adding a 24V electrical system without running anything off of it is just wasted money. I'm well aware of the advantages of running a higher system voltage, but none of those advantages come into play if you aren't actually using it for anything. If you were converting the entire truck (or even just the starter circuit) to 24V electronics, then it'd make sense, but adding a 24V system without any sort of load is pointless.

Again, if you're talking about using the truck to charge the onboard 24VDC electrical systems of an existing RV, my point becomes moot. Here's a 24V alternator, it might work in the existing bracketry without modifications, but don't be surprised if you end up actually having to put work into making it work: https://www.amazon.com/Exciting-Alternator-Universal-Tractor-Applications/dp/B004KMTRXK

That is a very cute chip but as far as I know it isn't used in any commercial products.

I mean boards like this. Though that is pretty expensive for one. And the built-in volt meter can't be trusted. Mine reads 0.2V low.

Overcharge is prevented by the set voltage on the regulator. But you want a buck regulator not a boost. Bucks will lower the voltage. A 12V 1A panel can be lowered to 4V (and 3 amps) that the batteries need for charging. Set the voltage correctly and they won't be over charged.

A simple "dumb" switching regulator won't be as perfect as MPPT but it will be close. And it will be far better than PWM choppers most <100W controllers use.

Headlights (you only need one pair. the cutoff is outstanding)

Map lights, license plate lights, running tail lights, and side marker lights

Reverse lights

Front turn signals (accessible from under the vehicle - pin remover and 10mm socket needed)

Rear turn signals (requires tail light disassembly)

Turn signal resistors (required to prevent hyperflashing; soldering is recommended)

Brake lights (requires tail light disassembly)

Daytime-running lights (pliers needed)

Trunk light and dome light

Here you go. You can probably find this for cheaper somewhere else, but I paid the premium for the convenience of Amazon.

To second this, you'll need something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Zento-Deals-Pieces-Load-Resistors/dp/B01N0ZKV1R/ Not saying that's the correct one, but that's the idea.

Not quite. They are called switvhback. It's a bulb with about 10 leds on it, half amber half white. When driving normal they glow white but when you the turn signal they flash amber. This is what I picked up: JDM ASTAR Extremely Bright 3030 Chipsets White/Yellow 7441 7443 7444 Switchback LED Bulbs with Projector For Turn Signal Lights(Brightest Switchback bulb on the market) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017C6B5JO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_NW3qybA353513

You also need to pick up some resisters since they don't pull enough power and the car will make them hyperflash as if a bulb is out. I have some of these: 4Pcs Aaron 50W 6ohm Load Resistors - Fix LED Bulb Fast Hyper Flash Turn Signal Blink Error Code https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L4V9ECY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_HY3qybDEKE0XE

These are the ones I used.

Brake lights: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P2D3W0A/

Reverse lights: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N6CEGVI/

Turn signals: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MJ7S1T4/

6 ohm resistors: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L4V9ECY/

You need load resistors when replacing halogen bulbs with LEDs

X-post this to r/mechanicadvice

https://www.amazon.com/4Pcs-Aaron-6ohm-Load-Resistors/dp/B00L4V9ECY/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2CRPCGSQG5P1V&keywords=led+turn+signal+resistor&qid=1570538089&sprefix=led+turn+signa%2Caps%2C159&sr=8-4. You may need to read up on what ohm rating you want but this should be similar to what you need. Also, don't worry too much about the heat warnings they have all over the page, if its just for a quick signal it wont get too hot but just be aware

Be careful doing that, mine came with warnings saying to not mount it near anything but metal. I bought these but removed them after I tested to verify that they fixed the light blink, which they did.. but that copper piece was burning hot to the touch. I can only foresee that catching fire one day so I opted out of keeping it