Reddit mentions: The best starters & alternators

> but at that rate I'm better off charging my batteries with my diesel's alternator

Yep. I frequently ask people on this sub why they think solar is so important when they're driving around in something that generates electricity already. Solar is expensive. It doesn't work in Seattle except for three weeks in August. Unless you're in the desert southwest, you need to have sufficient battery capacity for multiple days without sun which means you need an even bigger solar panel array to recharge that battery pack on the 2 sunny days during a two week period of overcast and showers.

Unless the van is parked somewhere for days and days without moving, just charge the house battery from the alternator. Even if it's parked on a sunny day, there's a huge incentive to park it in the shade to prevent the interior temps from killing anyone inside.

Using the alternator is easy. The absolute brute force, quick-n-dirty, cheap way is to run a #2 or #4 gauge wire from the positive terminal of your your van's battery to the positive terminal of your house battery through a simple switch and a high capacity (100A) fuse.

Under $10 crude switch from any auto parts store: https://www.amazon.com/Post-Battery-Master-Disconnect-Switch/dp/B001N729FS/ You use this to 'disconnect' the wire between the batteries when you park. This prevents that 60W fan you're running 24/7 from running down your starter battery. Get a better switch as your budget allows.

Better is an 'isolation relay' - there are two basic kinds. The inexpensive kind https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005JCX8OY/ requires that you also find a 12v power source that goes active when your ignition is turned on. This powers the relay to connect your house battery to the alternator/starting battery. It's not a big deal, but possibly a small hassle. Any Napa, Reibes, Pep-Boys, Autozone, etc auto parts place will have one.

Or, an automatic type that senses when the voltage on your starter battery rises due to the alternator and then automatically connects your house battery so it gets charged, too. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00400IYTK/ You take the 12v cable from your van battery to one terminal. The 12V from your house battery to the 2nd terminal. And, the last terminal goes to ground.

BTW, I wasn't trying to 'burn you' but rather put some realism into your needs. At least you didn't mention electric heater or electric air conditioning like some folks do. For heating or cooking, gas/propane is the practical way to go. (There are some great, BUT EXPENSIVE, diesel heaters that can tap into your van's fuel system).

For air conditioning, there isn't any van-sized alternative other than a gas powered generator or an electrical outlet near the van.

Good choice on the fridge. And, you're right - it's not a 'now' sort of requirement.

Those battery powered LED things last forever. If you haven't bought any yet, try to get ones with diffusers - intentionally stay away from the brightest ones you can find. The issue is that in the small confines of a van, they just sear burn marks in your retinas. 'dimmer is better' I have these - multi brightness, magnetic stick on to my van's metal interior: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H731UNS/

I got the non-rechargeable ones but use Amazon Basics Eneloop- equivalent rechargeable AAA batteries: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-AAA-Rechargeable-Batteries-12-Pack/dp/B007B9NXAC/ and a USB recharger for them sort of like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PZ6V99U/

I have one of these. You do not want this 2 ft from your eyes in a van: https://www.amazon.com/BUYGO-11-LED-Outdoor-Lantern-Camping/

First, You need to add up all the energy youre going to use in an average day. This is critical and no one else can really do it for you.

Theres a couple of ways to do this. You can buy a kill-a-watt meter and plug a power strip into it and then run everything you would want to run in a day off of it. This is it on amazon It will tell you how many watts everything has used.

Or you can go to a solar calculator on the web.....type in all the things you will use and what their rated wattages are. If you dont know them you can find them ..usually...on a label on the back near the power supply of each appliance. Or just google and use the larger number of their examples. Type in their wattage and how long you will use them. This too will tell you how many watts youre likely to use during a day.

Second, you need to size your solar array and your battery bank.

Lets say in your calculations you find that you use 2000w a day (2kw) that would be about 60kw a month if you want to compare it with your electric bill (which is pretty low but not unrealistic since you arent using a/c or any large appliances). For solar panels the math is pretty simple. If you get 4 hours of direct sunshine you would need 500w of solar panels to get your 2000w for the day under ideal conditions and assuming no loss. (never plan for ideal conditions and never assume zero loss but you get the idea) If you think youre going to get 8 (youre not) then you just need 250w....and so on.

You will probably never achieve this, I would shoot for 60% more solar on the bus than you think need on paper. For this example I would do my best to get 750 to 800 watts of panels. It is fair complicated and very build specific to try and calculate how much loss you will incur in your wiring and in panel placement. Since you can only have two panels the simplest and most elegant solution is to just buy panels that cover as much of the space as you have left as possible.

Panels also are never as efficient as they are the first year. If you size perfectly this year in a year or two you will be undersized.

For batteries you have to consider amp hours. Watts are amps * volts. Batteries are usually 12 v. Lets continue our example that you use 2000w a day and want to have enough reserve power to cover a full day. 2000w at 12v is 167 amps. An amp hour is one amp or one hour. We can take our 167 amps and know that you need 167 amp hours because youre using it over time. Im oversimplifying but thats the smallest amp/hour rating that will suffice. A good rule of thumb is to never drain lead acid batteries below 50% so now you need a 330 amp hours battery bank at the minimum. As an example that means you would need between 3 and 4 of these For lithium ion I think its 80% so thats 210 amp hours of lithium ion.

Your battery will never be as good as it is the first week so in a year's time neither of these banks will provide enough reserve energy if you just do the minimum required right off the bat. You will have to overbuild to account for this or add later.

If you want to work backwards then its a little less elegant. Lets say your coffee maker is 5 amps but its rated at 110 V thats 550 watts. Lets assume you use it for 15 minutes so thats ~138 watt hours. Your inverter will need to draw (138 watts divided by 12 V) about 11.5 amp hours out of your battery. If you have a 100 ah battery bank, that gives you 50 ah effective use...that 15 minutes of coffee making just used over 20 percent of your battery.

Charging your house batteries off the alternator can be very simple. This is what I used Put a switch in the cab and run a wire to the small terminal. When the small pole is energized it will connect the two larger poles. Wire one pole to one battery bank and the other pole to the other battery bank, use thick wire for the large poles 2/0. When the small pole is not energized the two poles will not be connected. When you want one bank to charge the other bank turn your switch on. When you want one bank to not drain the other bank, turn your switch off.

Im partial to this brand but you may find a cheaper one.

There are dozens of gauges that will tell you your battery voltages. Here is one example if you have everything wired correctly when you flip your switch to connect your two battery banks you should see their voltages come together.

I actually started doing that a few months ago. Bought this thing and pretty happy with it. You do need either a BBQ or (much easier) a small gas stove to go under.

The same brand actually sells what looks like a semi-disposable version made of cardboard, for some ¥1000, but the tin version folds neatly and is easy to store, so it seemed a better investment…

Took a bit of tweaking with the set-up, but my first batch of bacon and "vegan bacon" (surprisingly delicious fried, maple-gazed, smoked eringi slices) came out very nice!

PS: in case this is not obvious from measurements, this is a fairly small smoker: good for a few chunks of bacon or meat at a time… You aren't going to run a restaurant with it.

They're alright. If you can afford to retrofit, I recommend doing that. Avoid any of the aftermarket lights that have projector lenses. They're all garbage from everything I have heard. The ones I got are nice because they fit the stock light (9007) and fit my pre-existing HID kit. I'm running 5000K Kensun HID's for my fog lights and my headlights (headlights are lo/hi). They're bright as hell but in Texas, it is illegal to run HID's without projector lenses and for good reason. (they spread across the road and are not controlled)


These are the headlights. They feel strong and solid but I had to return two passenger sides before I got one that worked properly. (the halo rings were not acting right).

The wiring was pretty straight forward. I wired my halo rings into the fog light's relay so they kick on with the driving lights.

Another neat little thing to get to complete the badass look are some switch back LED turn signals. I got these.

If you decide to get the switchbacks, don't forget to get the load resisters. Otherwise your turn signals will blink too fast.

Also, it doesn't look like a 98 because I have installed the 03 edge front-end and hood.

I will upload some night photos tonight. its hard to get the lighting right on my camera at night to where you can actually tell how they look. I'll do my best.

The fit can be a bit of an issue, but having the wrong number of pins is a lot more concerning. I went here for the 1996 3.2 V6 in the LS trim with an automatic trans which gives the part number 2902766200. A quick google search of that part number and "Isuzu" shows an Amazon listing for $110 which claims to fit that car as well as some Hondas. Pretty common for a company like Isuzu to buy parts from another manufacturer. It's hard to tell, but that listing has one pic that shows four "blades" for the plug in a configuration kind of like _||_ in case that looks like yours. If you have a different model then make sure that yours matches the same part, but there is a good chance it does. If you find that the pulleys are different you can probably get a loaner gear puller from any auto parts store and scavenge your old one. If you aren't 100% sure about something it may be worth it to buy local (~$140) for ease of returns and warranty. Note that they'll charge you an extra $50 "core" charge until you give them the old and busted one.

Great thank you for the help and explanation. What are your feelings on the starter solenoids sold on amazon? https://smile.amazon.com/Standard-Motor-Products-SS598T-Solenoid/dp/B004C0S8NA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1541133433&sr=8-3&keywords=starter+solenoid

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They seem to have OK reviews, not spectacular. Even the name brand ones like ACDelco and Motorcraft are around 3.5 stars.

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Given that a solenoid is just a relay I'm finding choosing a good one is downright more complicated than it should be.

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Found the one you posted, AZ F492 on Amazon.. appears similar to the one above. https://www.amazon.com/Victory-Lap-F492-Starter-Solenoid/dp/B003X0Z64O

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Either way I'm going to order one and give it go

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EDIT: By the way, mine is not totally stock. It is only made to look stock.
I have so many things I need to tell you about a "first off" kind of thing with the bike. FIRST OFF get new tires and tubes. Your electrical system sucks ass. The 6v wires are shit and any one of your lights will dim the other. Get a 6v "normal light" for your brake light, and make the rest 6v LEDs. Get the aftermarket headlight for the bike on Ebay it's like $45 but it will save you in the long run when you blow out bulbs while testing out your system. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-XL100-XL125-XL175-XL250-XL350-MT125-MT250-Headlight-6-V-Trim-Ring-Case-/361374724763?hash=item54239cb29b:g:eAsAAOSwDk5T9bTT&vxp=mtr
As soon as you buy that, put on a 12v AC voltage regulator on your Yellow headlight wire from your stator https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0087PZV5O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Your little ceramic wire resistor sucks ass and will fall apart as soon as you touch it, so take that shit out of the bike.
After that, you will need a new flasher. for your turn signals.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003CKJL14/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Now that flasher is a thermal flasher, so with LED bulbs in your turn signal spots it wont flash, so what I did is put LED bulbs on my rear turn signals, and kept the classic bulbs in the front.
When it comes to your engine, don't waste time.
Buy a gasket kit on eBay, and while you are in there change your clutch plates ($35). You WILL 100% need a special tool to do that which is like $8 on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CRH18OG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Also all the oil seals on the bike. Check the engine cylinder, piston, and engine head. Replace the valve seals on in the engine head because mine were bad at 7k miles, and spewing out smoke from my exhaust. Most likely you will need to swap the piston rings, and that will cost like $50 but if you want, they sell big bore kits, and STD kits that will replace your whole jug and piston with gaskets etc for not that much more.
Check all your gears, especially your starter gear for signs of missing teeth, or bad gears. If you need any pages out of my Clymer manual, let me know. That book is the best. You will need the wiring diagram! Once I figure out how to post that, I will hook a brotha up.
Now that your engine is in great shape, and is still spitting out smoke (yes mine still is. I think they all do that at this age)
You will want to do some painting. That is your own personal mess to tackle. There are plenty of painters who will give you advice.
Other tips of advice: BikeBandit, and CMSNL are your friends to finding part numbers, then buying the parts on eBay. I have completely disassembled this bike, and the entire engine, completely disassembled is sitting in two plastic tubs in my garage while I wait for a fucking expensive starter gear to come in.
If you have ANY questions on what to buy, or what to do with your restoration. I can give you the name for what parts I used, and where I got them, like my aftermarket carburetor and shit.
Also, when you feel like tackeling the fork seals, hit me up, they are a complete bitch to change, and will take a special set of instructions to tackle without taking them to a shop.
By the way, DON'T TAKE YOUR BIKE TO A SHOP.
I hope the best to you. Maybe one day we will meet up with out bikes at one of the meet up events they have, like the one in Alabama this year!

Well I just had the battery checked and they said it's good so I don't think it's that. Replacing the solenoid seems easy enough. Can I ask you though what is the other cylinder next to the solenoid?

The part that looks like a solenoid was actually to the left of the part I was touching. It kinds looks like this

Your starter armatures sound like they're shorting (drawing more current than the fuse will allow), and your battery is probably dying.

Take the starter apart, check for resistance between the armatures. If this is anything like the '83 shadow I did this on, it's not going to be fun to get in an out. Maybe it's easy on yours, but my exhaust pipe was in the way.

Something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Starter-Rebuild-Motorcycle-Interceptor-VT500FT/dp/B00CPOPU3Q

Just because it's at 12.7 volts doesn't mean it's fully healthy.

Allow me to give you some advice. I too have a Badland bumper but really this is advice for any steel bumper that comes raw. Apply POR-15 as a base and then POR-15 top coat per their exact instructions. A normal rattle can job is not going to hold up to the elements. I am having to strip the rattle can job I did because it didn't hold up and has caused numerous rust spots. You can find both products here:

This kit will give you everything you need to apply the base of POR-15

http://www.amazon.com/POR-15-45009-Gloss-Black-Starter/dp/B00J594B5C/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1420640042&sr=8-2&keywords=por-15

This is the top coat. It also comes in a gloss variety if you prefer.

http://www.amazon.com/POR-15-45918-Chassis-Black-Coat/dp/B00MBFOHEW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1420640098&sr=8-2&keywords=por-15+top+coat

This combination can not be beat for its tough as nails finish and rust prevention all in one. Enjoy your bumper!

Napa says NipponDenso because that's the style of the starter the vehicle takes, it's not made by NipponDenso. They other style was Mitsuba. This is due to different suppliers depending on the country the accord was made in (USA/Japan)

Check out Denso starters on eBay and amazon. (Check your model fitment) They are rebuilt, but by the company that made it in the first place. I've had good luck with them.

I'd be pretty pissed about that. But yeah without load resistors, if the new lights are LEDs then you will still have the same issue. You'll need something like this to prevent it.

4Pcs Aaron 50W 6ohm Load Resistors - Fix LED Bulb Fast Hyper Flash Turn Signal Blink Error Code https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L4V9ECY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_V7UXAbB9DVN53

It's pretty straightforward to install, just Google it or message me if you need help with them. I'd recommend mounting them on metal where they won't come into contact with plastic though as they may heat up.

If it is the starter solenoid and he has the 3.9/5.2/5.9 gasoline engine in it then it's a super easy fix that should take around 30 minutes. First disconnect the battery as you're going to have a live wire hanging that will ground itself against anything metal on the truck and roast a fuse. Roll under the truck and you'll see the starter hanging off the side of the transmission on the driver's side. There's 2 or 3 bolts holding it on, one electrical connector and a power cable going to it held on by a nut. Disconnect all of those and it will slide out of the bell housing there. Now, with it out of the vehicle, you can take the 3 small 8 mm screws off the back of the starter which will allow you into the solenoid part of the starter. Pull out the old solenoid, loosen the two contacts inside by removing the nuts and put the new contacts in, tighten those two bolts, replace the plunger with a new one. Bolt on the cover to the solenoid making sure to clean the gasket first. Now place it back in the hole on the flywheel cover on the transmission, replace the mounting bolts, bolt the power cable back on and connect the electrical connector. Connect the battery back up and it should fire up right away.

Part you will need for this job: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0031HMS7C/

I'd also just like to mention that, of the risks I listed above, a surge protector does basically nothing to protect against voltage sags (which is easily able to damage electrical equipment - as voltage drops, amperage rises). Many RV'ers use a device called a Hughes Autoformer to alleviate that risk element. This device compensates for low voltage by way of a step-up transformer (video demo). In addition, it performs surge protection as well. It's more expensive than the surge protectors I linked to above, but is a comprehensive electrical protection device that covers pretty much all the bad-power bases. I don't own one, but plan on getting one at some point. I have no stake in the company; just throwing it out there as an FYI.

edit: words, plus link to video demo

Yeah make sure it doesn't leak. Pour some water on them. If it leaks. Walk away.

If it doesn't leak of sand those down a bit and use this por 15 starter kit just make sure you paint over it afterwards because that stuff doesn't hold up to UV rays.

Also, make sure to check the age of the tires on the van. If you look at them closely there should be a four digit code that tells you the month and year of manufacture. I just had a spare with 0 miles on it blow up and do some serious collateral damage to my old b250 when it blew up going 60mph. Turns out it was manufactured in 2002. You're supposed to replace them every 10 years. Found this out the hard way and dropped $775 bucks for new shoes. I wasn't happy about it. Even if they look perfect (this one did) change them. Not worth it.

You'll need to add some resistors to the blinker wiring, or possibly switch to a no-load flasher. Basically, the factory flasher won't work because the LEDs don't provide enough resistance for it to function. You can get resistors at brick-and-mortar auto parts stores or online retailers. Here's an example on Amazon.

Or, if you don't want to mess with the wiring you can switch back to incandescents and the blinkers will probably start working again (unless something else is wrong!)

Also, take this as an opportunity to clean your ground connections with a wire brush. There should be 1 in the back (under the bed near the bumper), and 2 up front (1 near each headlight).

What's it off of? The one in your picture looks like Polaris part (but only for the Fuji built engines so it may be in other japanese designs). If it is, then yes you can disassemble it. If you look at the lower left where the silver shaft meet the gold colored pieces you can see the snap ring that holds it all together. Careful when you take it apart several springs and weights will come out.

Here's one just like the picture for $23 shipped. That's probably the way to go, I've never had much luck repairing one of them.

Here's Amazon for $140 with free shipping.

This one is new; the one /u/rhubes linked is used, but either should do you well.

I also went ahead and found you the Youtube video to replace your alternator for your specific car. Watch and watch again, and you'll be able to do it yourself!

97-01 are basically the same in every way. I highly doubt they would've bothered with the mounting of the starter.

You payed way too much for that starter. A decent AC delco is around $70. I would try to return that if you can.

Since the starter grounds through the body, it's definitely possible that missing bolt is the source of your starting problems. I would replace that, and also clean the battery terminals really well before blaming the starter.

Though at 13 years, it wouldn't hurt to just replace the starter anyway. Its best days are certainly behind it.

If you have more time than money you can do a partial rebuild on the alternator yourself. Kits are available like this one one amazon

If moneys not the driving force I like to have them rebuilt by a local rebuilder or just replace with a parts store unit (local rebuilder highly preferred).

You can easily fix this by wiring in some load resistors.

Like these ones

https://www.amazon.com/4PCS-ARTR-6ohm-Load-Resistors/dp/B00UNG3EXQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1504056564&sr=8-3&keywords=load+resistor

The resistor goes between the positive wire for the turn signal / brake light and the ground wire.

Here's a picture for reference.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00UNG3EXQ?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image

Had to dig them out of my order history... here you go! (-:

Headlights-got a set for MIL's 2010 Forster and FIL's 2006 Forester... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FXP4KRS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_CAlzDbM6HHTV4

Turn signals for the front...(Aurora) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PY4VDD4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_sBlzDbFYTEF0R

These are the resisters for the turn signals so they don't blink fast...(both cars)... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UNG3EXQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_BClzDbADZV5S6

License plate lights and marker lights (I think he used these for both)... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0186P1MUW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9BlzDb01J1YPN

Fog lights for the Aurora, they can be yellow or blue, just have to turn the switch off and back on... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DGY4LQK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_UIlzDbSPTJ0EF

Headlights in the Aurora, can be a white/blue or yellow, switch off and on... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MF1RY6V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ZJlzDbQFKK85N

Tail lights/brake lights for the Aurora... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NPIUFMM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JLlzDbYRDS6B4

Sorry all the links are Amazon, hubby works there, so he gets a discount...the rear fog light bulbs must have come from somewhere else though, that's the only thing I can't find in our order history... unless it's the same bulbs as the brakes, there are two on that order...

A starter solenoid would be something else to try that could be found cheap or free. You would only need 1.

Edit: This looks like a starter solenoid, but might be a bit beefier and marketed for continuous use: http://www.amazon.com/CONTINUOUS-SOLENOID-GOLF-CARTS-1114208/dp/B008R1T5IM/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1TX8JDH10MBQ6S2MZ97J

Something like this. Make sure you get one that can handle what your alternator puts out.
https://www.amazon.com/CONTINUOUS-SOLENOID-GOLF-CARTS-1114208/dp/B008R1T5IM

Headlights (you only need one pair. the cutoff is outstanding)

Map lights, license plate lights, running tail lights, and side marker lights

Reverse lights

Front turn signals (accessible from under the vehicle - pin remover and 10mm socket needed)

Rear turn signals (requires tail light disassembly)

Turn signal resistors (required to prevent hyperflashing; soldering is recommended)

Brake lights (requires tail light disassembly)

Daytime-running lights (pliers needed)

Trunk light and dome light

Not quite. They are called switvhback. It's a bulb with about 10 leds on it, half amber half white. When driving normal they glow white but when you the turn signal they flash amber. This is what I picked up: JDM ASTAR Extremely Bright 3030 Chipsets White/Yellow 7441 7443 7444 Switchback LED Bulbs with Projector For Turn Signal Lights(Brightest Switchback bulb on the market) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017C6B5JO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_NW3qybA353513

You also need to pick up some resisters since they don't pull enough power and the car will make them hyperflash as if a bulb is out. I have some of these: 4Pcs Aaron 50W 6ohm Load Resistors - Fix LED Bulb Fast Hyper Flash Turn Signal Blink Error Code https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L4V9ECY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_HY3qybDEKE0XE

I just ordered this 150a solenoid: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008R1T5IM/ref=pe_825000_114657650_TE_item

I don't really know how much my battery is going to draw, but my alternator is only 120A so it should be quite within the limit.

These are the ones I used.

Brake lights: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P2D3W0A/

Reverse lights: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N6CEGVI/

Turn signals: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MJ7S1T4/

6 ohm resistors: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L4V9ECY/

You need load resistors when replacing halogen bulbs with LEDs

X-post this to r/mechanicadvice

Replace them...they're like 10 bucks with prime shipping.

Also it could be the solenoid. I did mine and have never had an issue since. (I lied i actually paid a dude $60 to do mine because im lazy)

https://www.amazon.com/4Pcs-Aaron-6ohm-Load-Resistors/dp/B00L4V9ECY/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2CRPCGSQG5P1V&keywords=led+turn+signal+resistor&qid=1570538089&sprefix=led+turn+signa%2Caps%2C159&sr=8-4. You may need to read up on what ohm rating you want but this should be similar to what you need. Also, don't worry too much about the heat warnings they have all over the page, if its just for a quick signal it wont get too hot but just be aware

Be careful doing that, mine came with warnings saying to not mount it near anything but metal. I bought these but removed them after I tested to verify that they fixed the light blink, which they did.. but that copper piece was burning hot to the touch. I can only foresee that catching fire one day so I opted out of keeping it