Reddit mentions: The best automotive carburetors & parts

I guess technically it will be a solenoid not relay but I digress. There is a ton of information on the internet if you search for it. I haven't seen anyone on this subreddit talk about doing what you want even though I've always thought about it. In my eyes it is much better than the "dash cam battery packs."

I would get the largest deep cycle AGM battery you can fit and afford along with this solenoid or one similar. I wouldn't run anything smaller than 4awg for the wire. Should be very easy.

I use a Ryobi 26cc straight shaft trimmer. It's a multi tool that allows the end to be changed. I tried using the wheeled blade for edging the driveway and sidewalks, but in the long run ended up just using the string for everything. The blade is over kill. If you edge every week then the string is more than enough to keep the edges clean. I've had the Ryobi for 3 years. Last year I had to adjust the carburetor which requires a special tool or taking it to a mechanic. I opted to buy the tool and ever since then it has run great and started on a few pulls every time. I prefer spool string over the one time fixed length string. If you get the spooling right it's much easier than changing the fixed length. With a little practice I now get the spooling right 9/10 times. I prefer gas, but I think this mostly depends on yard size. Actually, my preference for gas is over corded, but battery operated is becoming a very viable option. When I was young my father had a corded trimmer that i found annoying and always thought I would get a gas powered one when I had my own yard. I would advise that anyone wear earplugs when using a gas powered trimmer or blower.

The Ryobi is surely not the highest quality trimmer on the market, but it works for me.

edit: This is the tool you need to adjust the carburetor

For poking out crud that blocks them up? I didn't say to put them in a drill. As long as you use one smaller than the hole it is fine, you can also use the back of it where it is solid. The jets are made of brass and won't fall apart from poking crud out. Here is a pro carb cleaner. https://www.ebay.com/p/?iid=222407935381&lpid=82&&&ul_noapp=true&chn=ps it also has metal pokers. Here is another https://www.amazon.com/Carb-Cleaner-Wire-Set/dp/B001DDMB2I. Pretty much all of them are like that and work fine.

https://www.amazon.com/National-Carburetors-TOY507-Toyota-Carburetor/dp/B000CH25N6

That's too bad the only review is one star. haha Hopefully most of them work great. I'm in need of one. How does yours seem? Run it yet?

carb rebuild kit

I always buy the kit comes with all ya need gasket wise. Some local parts stores carry or can get the kit too. With old gaskets its always better to replace.
bad video I made on rebuilding carbs

If you don't feel comfortable making one I bought this one for my CB750 and it worked great. Comes with all the tubing and brass adapters for your bike. It's not super cheap but better than a couple hundred dollars.

EMGO CARBURETOR SYNCHRONIZER 4 CARB KIT UNIVERSAL https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CJGDE8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ublLyb1RB94QT

You'll need 2 of these-

https://www.amazon.com/Mikuni-Super-Rebuild-Kit-MK-BN38/dp/B000GTWV84/ref=gp_aw_ybh_a_5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=KFCV0A8GQAVDWSPE4N0N

And 2 of these-

https://www.amazon.com/NEEDLE-VALVE-SQUARE-PUMP-1-5/dp/B000N5UV5Q/ref=pd_aw_fbt_263_img_2/140-1696610-9870930?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000N5UV5Q&pd_rd_r=d54162ab-60f4-4243-9bd8-f58d58c8f6e7&pd_rd_w=iTtdp&pd_rd_wg=AaeX0&pf_rd_p=3ecc74bd-d08f-44bd-96f3-d0c2b89f563a&pf_rd_r=P56QX8S4HY97FEW2WWX1&psc=1&refRID=P56QX8S4HY97FEW2WWX1

Excellent rebuild tutorial here-

https://www.seadooforum.com/threads/the-seadoo-carb-rebuild-thread.89199/

Yeah, if you can make a reasonably accurate gauge, go ahead and do it. I paid something like $65 for mine, a dial type.

Carbs are really cheap on Amazon. I have purchased several for under $20 each! I also invested in this worth every penny!

Removing the heater connection will be easier, you can either cap off the two connections at the engine side with these: https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-02250-EPDM-Coolant-Bypass/dp/B00Z7MM0IG

Or replace the heater hoses with the base model versions which won't go through the rear heater T connections

Found these, at least one size should fit the external diameter of the stem. I'll replace that, fill up the master cylinder, check it, bleed the brakes, and let you guys know how it all went.

>The best advice I could give is to pay the diagnostic fee at the dealer then if you can repair it yourself.

This is probably what I'll do. Did the same a couple of months ago for the transmission. Ended up being an unnoticeable small leak (like 1 pint after 150K) that they just topped off.

They had the car for a week and lent me a 2014 535 m-Sport.
$124.


I would have paid that just to rent the car.

Think i'll go with these if it turns out to be the issue:

http://smile.amazon.com/Dorman-917-241-Variable-Timing-Solenoid/dp/B00HEDHJ9Q/ref=pd_rhf_schuc_p_img_4

http://www.amazon.com/Holley-26-105-Vacuum-Line-Cap/dp/B000CMFPJ2

As others said it's likely condensation. Most of us just roll up a paper towel and wipe it out. DCTs, Novas and pretty much anything else with a drip tip will do this to varying degrees. The caps linked to above should contain one of an appropriate size to fit over your drip tip to keep it from making a mess at least. (I don't recommend using one the fits inside the drip tip as that may not be easily removed)

As far as I can tell it needs to power

• 1 or 2 12v pumps ( something like this maybe https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VS4AHTG/ref=asc_df_B00VS4AHTG5262336/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=395033&creativeASIN=B00VS4AHTG&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167126276842&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11303699273317758214&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033824&hvtargid=pla-306984006387 )
  
• tankless water heater 120-240v depending on brand ( this is the type I'd probably go for https://m.lowes.com/pd/Bosch-Tronic-3000-120-Volt-3-4-kW-1-GPM-Point-of-Use-Tankless-Electric-Water-Heater/1000160791 )
  
  I'm not sure the exact amount of solar panels that would be necessary to power this though
  
  Edit: I'd probably have all if this running off switch or two do it could be shut off when it's not needed

I found this kit on Amazon $4 cheaper than Z1 enterprises had theirs.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XSLKB2H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_RAUXAbJS102M7

They're no letters next to the numbers but that kit does look exactly the same, during that time I ended up ordering one I found on Amazon but it looks exactly the same as the one you sent me

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00V64XVJQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_eW8WBbSJ9T714

Or buy a tool designed for the job?

Edelbrock 1405 Carburetor

That's a broken vacuum fitting. The vacuum line diagram for that motor shows the Evap. Canister Purge Valve in that location, and the pictures match.

Since the part that's broken is the fitting on the solenoid, you'll have to replace it. It looks like there's just one screw holding it on; that should be an easy fix.

[EDIT] I just saw that you broke off both of the lines going into that part. Your local auto parts store will have the right diameter line to replace what you need to there. Just bring it in with you and they'll be able to match it.

A quick short term solution would be to cap off the broken vacuum lines. Your fuel economy will suffer, but you'll regain engine performance.

Depending on how handy you are, a heat source (lighter/torch) and compressed air might unclog that one. Maybe a wire brush if it there is a lot. I also used something like this, https://www.amazon.com/Carburetors-Cleaner-Cleaning-Needles-Chainsaw/dp/B07D8LZ2PG/ but it was a lot older. Probably not recommended, but if it's not working now, what's the worst you can do?

I have the same problem on my 96. I tried everything you have but it is probably a bad temperature switch on the back of the engine which I cannot access.

My current path is to just install one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Derale-16738-Farenheit-Electric-Controller/dp/B000CN4XWQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1413011949&sr=8-1&keywords=derale+fan+controller

I will assume you have the 4.2L 6 cylinder (Vortec 4200) engine and not the 5.3 V8.

First of all, check the oil! is it to the proper level? keep in mind the Vortec 4200 engine uses 6.5-7 quarts of oil and NOT 5 like most cars, because it's an inline 6 (not a V6) engine, and the oil pan is really long. if the issue has occured recently after oil change perhaps they only put in 5 quarts and then it burned a little bit because it's got some miles on it, and now it's low on oil? Just a possibility. My 02 GMC Envoy (same vehicle and engine, just a different logo on the front, and the exterior is styled a little different) doesn't burn any oil at 188K miles but I still check it every once in a while to be sure.

On these vehicles the oil pressure gauge is bullshit. It uses an oil pressure switch that has two positions - no oil pressure and yes oil pressure. If no, the gauge will point to 0. If yes, the gauge will point to exactly 40, and then the ECM will vary the gauge above 40 based on RPM to simulate oil pressure. You could hook up a mechanical pressure gauge to get the "real" oil pressure.

On this vehicle there is a solenoid that uses oil pressure to control the variable valve timing on the exhaust camshaft. If there is a problem with this solenoid or there is insufficient oil pressure, which would happen if there is not enough oil in the engine, it won't work right.

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-917-010-Variable-Timing-Solenoid/dp/B004AIIYTW

If you do have to replace that part, I believe you will have to remove the belt and unbolt the power steering pump to get it out of the way a little bit, and then it's just 1 bolt for the solenoid. At least that's how the process went in my 02 Envoy. If you find oil in the connector, then it definitely has failed.