Reddit mentions: The best automotive replacement brake calipers

http://www.tooltopia.com/mayhew-tools-29910.aspx

http://www.tooltopia.com/otc-tools-6295.aspx

Both of those are a little cheaper on tooltopia and you don't have to pay tax (or at least, I don't, idk what the rules are for who does and doesn't) or shipping on orders over $75.

For long term use, I'd probably trust Astro Pneumatic's brand name over Ztech. I've always had great luck from AP tools, and they have an identical looking kit for $9 more on Amazon. Many years ago, I bought a cheap (holy crap, just looked it up and I paid almost $50 for that shipped) piston kit from ebay, it lasted about a year. The pin on the main plate sheared off. But that was a long time ago, maybe they're cheaper and better now?

Something to keep in mind with that inner tie rod tool, it doesn't have a lifetime warranty, and the mechanism will break at some point, and it's $52 for the replacement part. I have one, but I rarely use it. It's usually easier to just turn the wheel all the way and use some Knipex Cobra pliers.

I do most of my tool shopping between Amazon, Tooltopia, and eBay anymore. Between the three, you can usually find a pretty good deal.

I certainly trust OTC tools, I've never really had any problems and have a lot of them (and a lot of them that are rebranded as Mac/Matco/Cornwell).

These are the spring compressors I have, only problem I've had is that the little nub on the pin that prevents flying parts if it slips? That thing sometimes is too large to fit over the spring.

I have a Mac EM710 multimeter, and a Fluke 77 IV also. I like the Fluke better because the Mac turns on in AC for whatever freaking reason (srsly, it's a multimeter primarily marketed at auto techs working exclusively with DC, made by a company that almost exclusively sells to auto techs, but the damn thing turns on in AC every single time. wtf.), but I like the Mac better because the body is more square so it'll sit on it's side easier.

Power Probe's are also super duper handy, you can quickly check if something has power and ground without having to change the other end of your test light, and you can quickly apply power to check if a component is functioning. And they're super cheap on Amazon these days. That makes me sad, I paid like $200 for my PP3!

• Bad pedal feel can result from rotor issues, but more importantly if the pads are glazed, or issues like air in the lines or the master cylinder or wheel cylinders are failing. Plus rubber brake lines get softer over time.
  
  
• Personally I have never noticed much difference with different rotors, as long as they are good quality...except that drilled/slotted were noisy.
  
  
• One common misperception is that rotors get 'warped'. In most cases this does not happen. If you get a set of calipers and a runout gauge and measure a 'warped' rotor, in many cases it will be 100% within tolerance.
  
  
• What feels like warping is that there are differences in hardness within the rotor casting and this typically means there can be a 'bump' in the rotor (hard spot) which only is an issue under intense heat and clamping forces. Cryo-treatment is supposed to help this--however only if the rotor casting is any good. Cryo helps to even out the internal stresses within the rotor and therefore help to ensure hardness variations are not as likely to happen. My experience is that if you just buy a good OEM or Centric rotor, it's a pretty good casting to begin with, while some parts store rotor fresh off the boat from China--not so much.
  
  
• Ideally the rotors should have a layer of the friction material deposited evenly on the rotor face. On the 'bump' the friction material is gone, and the friction is less for some part of the rotor. Thus when you brake the pads are grabbing/releasing and it causes severe shake. Bedding-in brakes is making sure the friction material is evenly deposited over the rotor surface. If brakes are not bedded-in, it's real easy to 'cook' a rotor and instantly find it's hard spots. I've done this. A rotor with 20 miles on it shakes like a cheap blender...
  
  
• I use a bed-in spray called the 'silencer'. It's mildly abrasive spray for friction surfaces that helps the bed-in process to go faster. You spray rotor faces and let it dry, then put the pads on. It's imported and expensive, but one can lasts forever.
  https://www.amazon.com/Goodson-Brake-Silencer-Spray-Aerosol/dp/B008CP6RJI
  
  
• Before I would go crazy with expensive rotors, if the pedal feel is soft, I would consider upgrading to braided stainless steel brake lines. And sometimes as your caliper piston rings and/or master cylinder wears, those parts need to be swapped (e.g. rebuild calipers, replace MC).
  
  
• One thing that is 100% vital is that the proper bed-in procedures MUST be followed. Failure to bed-in brakes properly will destroy your new rotors, glaze your pads and give you the worst pedal feel you've ever seen.
  
  
• One comment about brakes: Japan has some crazy vehicle inspection requirements....after so many years you literally have to replace the entire braking system, lines and all, to keep a used car on the road. At first glance this seems kinda crazy, but to keep the brakes working properly, that really is what you need to do.

It's a dual-piston brake caliper, similar to this one.

I don't know what car it's for, if you really cared you could try /r/HelpMeFind or one of the automotive subreddits.

Definitely not fitness-related, though.

You can get cheap piston wind in tools, used them several times already. Also you can get a good quality set if you're often doing brake jobs. We use this cheap set, not for heavy duty usage!

http://www.amazon.com/Astro-Pneumatic-78618-Caliper-Tool/dp/B002RDGMNM/ref=sr_sp-atf_title_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1396495415&sr=8-1&keywords=brake+piston+tool

Lots of other places have it http://www.amazon.com/Brake-Caliper-Piston-Compressor-Windback/dp/B00CWRF1S0/ref=pd_sbs_auto_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=1PAHZDW7M3CNXWJMMDT8

There are cheaper and better options:
$109
[Rotors and pads]
(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J4P96DE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
$140
Calipers

You can do it too amd save a few sheckles.

You realize Amazon has good parts too?

I can get Akebono brake pads and ACDelco rotors for my car on there as cheaply as Autozone charges me for the aftermarket stuff. Prime eligible of course.

I just picked up an ACDelco Fuel Tank Canister Solenoid ($47 instead of $97) and Purge Solenoid ($21 instead of $26) CHEAPER than what everyone wanted for aftermarket and it was here in 2 days.

Here's a Prime Eligable OEM caliper for my car too, it's nuts. https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-21998527-Original-Equipment-Assembly/dp/B00EFBBW3O/ref=sr_1_9?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1501154834&sr=1-9

Edit: I just compared all of those items to Rock Auto, and they are the same or cheaper at Amazon after shipping But Amazon does have that pesky sales tax tilting the purge solenoid into Rock Autos column by $2 cheaper.

These are the smaller 4-piston units from the ATS but still decent in size. Bolt up via $200ish adapter plate and require drilling the upright.

They chose these caliper because they run around $100 each for new ones: https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-172-2586-Original-Equipment-Assembly/dp/B00B4KP8E8

In comparison, a USED STI Brembo front caliper usually runs around $250-300

And these!

These were $175 when I bought them... https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HQZ7UMI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I got these. You will need to reuse your factory hardware bolts. The ones supplied are cheap and will strip out before tightening to spec. It’s a shame considering the calipers are about $100 each. Other than that, they are nice and shiny after about 6 months and driving around the beach a few weeks. No rust. I paired them with drilled and slotted rotors. My girl will stop on a dime now. I have 180,000 miles and it was just giving up when I would brake. Replacing the rotors, brakes, and calipers made it stop and look like new.

For 2005-2014 Ford Mustang Rear... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HFQT5KS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Are you using one of these? I've run into several that just wouldn't budge using hand pressure with the cube of death.